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Old Feb 3, 12, 7:10 pm   #1
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YOW aka Government Town
Programs: AC Aeroplan, A|Club Gold
Posts: 132
Honeymoon TR! YOW-YYZ-LAX-PPT-BOB on AC, TN and VT Y

Hello all,

If you’re reading this page right now, you’re lucky enough to be viewing my first ever trip report. Please bear with me, as the trip was in November and as of writing, it is early February. As such, much of what I’m writing is based off of memory. If you’re one of those who prefer picture-heavy reports, you won’t find that here. My original plan was to take lots of pictures, but when you’re on your honeymoon, the last thing that your new wife wants is for you to spend more time with your big, bulky SLR than you do with her.

So here we go, my inaugural report (on my honeymoon trip nonetheless). Enjoy!

Sunday, Nov.6, 2011

AC flight 445
YOW-YYZ
Departing 9:00am Arriving 10:00am
Equipment: E90
Economy class
Seats 31 A, 31 C

November 6, 2011 was quite a brisk morning in Ottawa. In fact, I think that it was probably our first “legitimately cold” day of the year. Our original plan had been to take the bus from our apartment downtown to the airport in the south end. Thrifty is Nifty! However, we were offered a ride last minute by a generous family member, to which we graciously accepted. We left the apartment early, sometime around 6am. My wife had her “newish” designer luggage, and I had my brand new samsonite, fit with overly large wheels. Great for handling all types of terrain (I’ll explain why this came in handy later).
Unfortunately, the wife’s luggage, although nice looking, is not very practical.

I had heard about the incredibly high food prices in French Polynesia, and as a result, my new samsonite was packed to the gills with granola bars, chips and other non-perishable food items. Luckily, the climate is tropical and I had decided that I would not need to pack all that many clothes.

Upon arrival at the wonderful Ottawa airport, we said our goodbyes, grabbed our luggage, and headed into the airport. It wasn’t very busy. I negated to put luggage tags on our luggage myself at this point as I had questions to ask the check-in agent about baggage routing. I knew that AC had an interline agreement with Air Tahiti Nui, but was unsure if our luggage would actually be checked all the way through to PPT. Sure enough, the check-in agent was able to do this.

We then headed down through security, which was a breeze this morning. We had gotten to the airport quite early and had plenty of time to kill. We went to the gate, grabbed some starbucks coffee, and took some pictures of ourselves at the start of our adventure.

This flight was relatively non-eventful. A typical rapidair flight. It took off on time and arrived in YYZ on time. That’s about all I remember, apart from filling out my US CBP customs card for the pre-clearance in YYZ.


AC flight 799
YYZ-LAX
Departing 12:10 pm Arriving 2:24 pm
Equipment: A320
Economy class
Seats 32B, 32 C

I had hoped to be offered to purchase a few last-minute upgrades on this flight. Alas, that didn’t work out. It turns out that Air Canada doesn’t have much trouble filling this route. Upon arriving in Toronto, we made our way to the US preclearance zone. After waiting about 20 mins for our baggage to arrive, we made our way through customs. There was no line! I couldn’t believe it. My previous experiences in YYZ preclearance had been long and drawn out to say the least.

After a quick chat with the customs agent (he sounded like a Texan!), he congratulated us on our marriage and wished us luck on our honeymoon. We headed through security again and dropped off our bags. Unfortunately, my wife lost her bottled water as she had forgotten that there would be multiple trips through security on this day.

We headed down to the gate with about an hour to spare before our flight. I had hit up starbucks again and picked up two of their super-expensive turkey sandwiches, as the LMU hadn’t worked out and I didn’t feel like paying for AC food. We were then told that our gate had been changed, and had to relocate all the way down to the other end of the transborder zone.

Eventually we boarded the plane, slightly late. I was a bit nervous about this as we had a fairly tight connection to make in LAX to the last TN flight of the day. Luckily, our seats were near the front of economy class on this bird.

Unfortunately, we were pretty much surrounded by young, loud children and their indifferent parents on this flight. They really enjoyed kicking our seats…for the full five hours. However, seeing as how it was economy class I wasn’t one to complain or let it ruin our trip. On went the headphones and it was movie time. I watched a few flicks, including unforgettable with Liam Neeson, which I found to be quite good. I also ordered myself a Heineken. I was finally starting to feel relaxed. This was going to be a good trip, I thought!

Time flew. It was a clear day and we were able to get a pretty decent view of the rockies. I must admit, though, that I had a better view of them on a trip I took to SFO a few months earlier. We soon arrived in LA, and I witnessed the monstrosity that is LAX for the first time. There is certainly a lot of construction going on there.

We taxied by the Tom Bradley International Terminal where we could see various Qantas and Turkish birds, among others. Then we turned a corner and saw it. The bright blue, flowery Air Tahiti Nui A340 that would soon be taking us to one of the most isolated and beautiful regions on earth!

TN flight 7
LAX-PPT
Departing 4:30 pm Arriving 11:00 pm
Equipment: A340
Economy class
Seats 21D, 21E

This flight would be our longest of the trip, scheduled to be about 8.5 hours, flying over the dark depths of the Pacific Ocean the entire time.

We arrived on AC 799 at LAX terminal 2. Again, tons of construction going on here. It definitely isn’t the most appealing of terminals; though, it does have many similarities with typical American airports.

At this point, I was really hoping that the ground crews would somehow magically get our luggage off of AC 799 and onto TN 7. As we didn’t have any luggage, we decided to walk from terminal 2 to TBIT, which took about 8 minutes.

I must admit, I was initially very impressed with TBIT, despite all of the renovations that seem to be going on. The check-in area with all of the different airlines is certainly very impressive. However, the impressiveness ends there. I found the rest of the airport to be downright weird.

We headed to the TN desk, which only had one agent working at it. There was no line at all, and I assumed that by this point most of the passengers had already checked in. I inquired about possibly buying two upgrades to business class; however, the agent told me that there were no more business seats available.

We headed through TSA security. There were a ton of workers on duty with barely anything to do. Many of them were just standing around. Upon presenting our BP’s to the TSA worker, she immediately congratulated us. I asked how she knew we were on our honeymoon, and she said that almost everyone that flies TN is.

I hit up the duty free and bought a bunch of grey goose. The prices were amazing compared to what the stuff costs in Canada. I was in heaven! Especially because I knew how much drinks were going to cost in Bora Bora.

After waiting at the gate for quite some time, boarding commenced (late). I had noticed that there were not that many passengers, and thought that we would be flying with a relatively light load this trip. I was wrong, however, as the gate agent had announced that assigned seating had to be followed as there would also be connecting passengers boarding who were in the process of deplaning from their incoming CDG flight. I couldn’t imagine flying from CDG-LAX-PPT in one day..It would be a very long flight.

Upon entering the plane, the first thing I noticed was the very bright blue and green colour of the interior. Waiting for us on our seats was a pillow, a blanket and an amenity kit. The kit contained an eye shade, socks, earphones and earplugs. It was nice to have all of the provided.

Boarding took a long time. This was definitely the largest plane that I had been on to date. There was going to be 300 and something passengers on board the flight.

Take-off eventually happened without a hitch. One thing I was surprised about was how long it took the A340 to actually build up enough speed to take off. It took a very long time to actually get up to speed. I guess the trade-off is that the engines are very quiet in flight.

Soon after take-off, the flight attendants changed their uniforms from a more conservative green uniform to an island-inspired orange uniform. Following this, they came by with delightful smelling fresh flowers to put behind our ears.

One thing I noticed about this particular aircraft is that the seats are narrow and do not have a lot of pitch. The padding is also very thin and makes for an uncomfortable ride (I would pay business class in the future just to avoid the economy seats!). Adding to this, we were in the middle aisle, which had four abreast seating. The French-man (a member of the gendarmerie) in front of me went ahead and took the liberty of reclining his seat to the maximum for the entire trip!

I should also mention the seatback video is not on demand. There are multiple channels that run programming on a cycle. The only up-to-date movies they had on offer were Captain American and Larry Crowne. I didn’t have much interest in either.

The attendants soon came by to offer a beverage service. Anything you can think of was on offer- from Tahitian-brewed Hinano beer to champagne (of the cheaper variety). They made it a point to let everyone know that, since it was a “night flight” (which it wasn’t), they would be doing only one more beverage service, that being with dinner. They then said that we could serve ourselves in the galley area at any point during the flight (it wasn’t really self-service as a crew member actually had to pour the beverage for you).

I went with a Hinano. It’s a bitter, hoppy brew, which I actually quite liked. For dinner I chose the beef tenderloin served with wine. It was a good quality meal, especially for economy.

Shortly after dinner (around 6:30pm), the lights dimmed and almost everyone began to go to sleep. Only 2.5 hours in, I was very uncomfortable due to the seat. I turned on the map feature on the AVOD, at which point I realized how far we were from any form of land at all. Feeling that isolated is a bit of a strange feeling.

I tried to get some sleep. For the next few hours, I went in and out of my slumber. Waking up would usually coincide with the pain that the seat was causing me.

Approximately two hours before we arrived in Tahiti, the lights came on. The attendants wished us a good morning, which was weird considering it was 9pm. The flight attendants then decided to run another food service! It was a bit quicker this time. We were offered some odd kind of cold pasta salad with ham and tomatoes in it. It was a bit odd and definitely not to my wife’s taste. I didn’t mind it too much.

The flight attendants then handed out the customs and immigration cards for French Polynesia. I must admit, for such a small country, they sure do want to know an awful lot about the people that are visiting. This took me quite some time to fill out. Looking at the AVOD map, we were almost in Tahiti!

Soon after, the captain announced our descent in Tahitian, English and French. Landing in PPT late at night is certainly an interesting experience. You really don’t see any lights or land at all until you are about to land. The landing at Faaa airport was quite rough. Perhaps their main runway needs to be re-paved?

At this point, we were incredibly tired. At least we had arrived though! We were certainly glad that we had a hotel room in Tahiti before our flight the next morning to Bora Bora. The original plan had actually been to try to sleep in the airport for a few hours, but after reading about theft there online, I had decided otherwise.

Faaa doesn’t have jetways. You can really feel the humidity when you leave the aircraft and descend the stairs down onto the tarmac. To tell you the truth, the first thing I experienced upon exiting the aircraft was extreme humidity coupled with the smell of hot, rotting garbage. Tahiti at its finest I suppose!!!

The tarmac was lined with guys who looked like your average North American security guard. I figured out pretty quickly that they were indeed police, however. They ushered everyone towards the immigration hallway.

There was a group of individuals playing the guitar in immigration. It was quite a nice touch, especially at midnight. Luckily, our plane had mostly been French nationals and Europeans, so our line (which was for everyone other than FP nationals or EU citizens) went quite fast. A quick stamp of our passports and we were officially in country. Better yet, our luggage had actually arrived!

We would next experience the low point of our trip. For anyone considering a trip to FP, I would highly suggest not staying at the Tahiti Airport Motel. The place is a dump and is not convenient at all. To get there, we had to cross the airport parking lot, then cross a busy street. After that, you have to go up an incredibly sketchy gravel alley, which is uphill (keep in mind the hills in Tahiti make San Francisco look tame). To make matters worse, the alley was full of aggressive stray dogs!! At this point, the oversize wheels on my samsonite definitely came in handy,

After you get past the dogs, it’s just a quick walk past the stinky septic tank of the hotel, and up a flight of stairs. We were then given a room on the 3rd floor. The hotel, unfortunately, doesn’t have elevators.

After lugging both of our luggage up to the 3rd floor, I was understandably tired. After getting to the 3rd floor, we noticed that the hotel did not keep lights on in the hallway. We had to use my cell phone as a flashlight to try to find our room. Not a pleasant experience at all, but we arrived.

The rooms themselves weren’t bad. I walked back down to the airport to get us some bottled water (At 400 francs a piece!!!). Once I got back to the hotel, it was a quick shower and then bed. We had an early flight on Air Tahiti to catch the next day.

Our flight on Air Tahiti to Bora Bora plus our stay in an overwater bungalow at the Sofitel Motu Private Island will be posted in the coming days. Stay tuned.
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Old Feb 4, 12, 7:31 am   #2
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Francisco Denver as of 6/1/12
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Posts: 7,444
Bravo jcamp028 on a great first TR! Congratulations to you and your new bride.
Wow, I can't imagine doing all of that in one day and in coach. Yikes. And that walk to the Tahiti Airport Motel!

Although Y may have been uncomfortable, just remember that it does have its advantages. Take it from one with lots of experience... don't spoil her and fly J, or heaven forbid F, unless you are prepared to continue to spoil her. It only takes one nice long haul J flight and you will soon hear that very expensive phrase... "I'm never flying coach again".
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Old Feb 4, 12, 3:54 pm   #3
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 204
Thanks for your report. I am sorry to hear about the problems you have encountered so far - but I hope that your honeymoon will quite wonderful. Somehow I think it will be!
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Old Feb 4, 12, 6:46 pm   #4
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NYC
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Great first TR! Looking forward to the next installment
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Old Feb 4, 12, 11:52 pm   #5
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 704
Thanks for your trip report and congratulations. One question: What were the other choices of entrees for the meal on the flight to Tahiti?
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Old Feb 5, 12, 7:52 am   #6
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YOW aka Government Town
Programs: AC Aeroplan, A|Club Gold
Posts: 132
hello and thank you for your response. from what i remember, the other choices on the menu were a pasta (i believe vegetarian lasagna style) and a more traditional tahitian style fish with vanilla sauce. forgive me as i cant remember the kind of fish. there were different options on the trip home which i will cover on the return tr.
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Old Feb 5, 12, 8:59 am   #7
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YOW aka Government Town
Programs: AC Aeroplan, A|Club Gold
Posts: 132
November 7, 2011
VT flight 445
PPT-BOB
Depart 7:15 am Arrive 8:05 am
Seats: Unassigned seating

We didn't sleep much during the night due to the hell that was the Tahiti Airport Motel. We decided to head to Faaa airport quite early, and its good that we did. IIRC, we arrived at the airport some time before 6am.

Upon arrival at the airport, we made a quick left turn and walked past the various travel agencies that operate out of Faaa. The domestic check-in desk for VT was completely out of control this particular Monday morning. Think of the worst possible line at a check-in that you have experienced, and multiply it by 10 (we can call this the Air Tahiti disorganization co-efficient).

Check-in was hell. We were in line for a good hour at least. It turns out that there was a huge FP-wide canoeing competition, which started the next day. Because of this, everyone was flying to the outer islands where the race started. To make matters worse, the Air Tahiti staff seemed to be helping out their family and friends by allowing them to cut in line. Everyone in FP seems to know each other!

After being issued out BP's, we made a B-line directly to security, which thankfully, was not far away. There was no line-up and security was efficient and quick. They did, however, search both of our carry-ons. I think that this was more a matter of boredom than anything else.

After security, you immediately end up in the domestic “departures area”. It is more-or-less a small room, with a couple of chairs and two “gates” at the front. Boarding was called shortly thereafter.

As we could pick our own seats, I made sure that we were among the first in line. Upon reading an old trip report on flyertalk, I knew that we had to sit on the left side of the plane to get a good view of bora bora.

My first impression on the actual flight operations of Air Tahiti was that they don’t waste any time. Once everyone was seated and had their seatbelts on, the ATR 72 immediately started moving. It was just a quick turn to get onto the main runway at PPT. The pilot literally started to accelerate while we were still turning onto the runway, and we were in the air making a sharp ascent in no time.

Tahiti is really beautiful from the air. Moorea, a small mountainous island off the coast of Tahiti is as well. Its amazing to see Tahiti, literally a mountain, surrounded by bright azure coloured waters.

We then proceeded to fly over the ocean. The friendly flight attendant came by with our choice of either coffee or pineapple juice.

We were soon flying over the island of Tahaa’a, which is beautiful in itself. However, it was nothing compared to what we would witness once Bora Bora came into view.

Bora Bora was one of the most beautiful spectacles I had ever seen. The photos and videos of it available on the internet simply cannot capture the turquoise and aqua colours of the water in the lagoon. It truly must be the most beautiful island on earth.

The way I describe it to my friends is that it reminds of something like a “Yoshi Island” (from the Nintendo game). That being, it seems like something you would only find in fiction. A mountain surrounded in clouds, with the brightest blue water you will ever see consisting of beautiful coral reefs.

We made a quick descent and a quick landing on an incredibly short runway. The Bora Bora airport authorities, for whatever reason, always have a firetruck out beside the runway when there is a take-off or a landing.

Bora Bora airport is quite unique. It is a small building on an island. The only way to get there is by boat. There is a small check-in desk, a couple of shops and a restaurant. There also isn’t any security screening for outbound passengers.

All of the hotels have representatives in kiosks at the airport. I approached the friendly Sofitel rep., who addressed us by name, gave us fresh flower necklaces and then got our luggage for us!

She gave us some bottled water and then insisted that she would bring our luggage out to the boat dock for us. She even waited with us during the full 20 minutes that it took the Sofitel boat shuttle to arrive! Service at its finest for sure.

Your first experience of Bora Bora is really once you exit the airport and are on the dock waiting for the shuttle. It is truly an amazing experience, White-sand beaches, palm trees, a tremendous looking lagoon and nice weather. We were both in awe.

The shuttle arrived and the deckhand/captain loaded our luggage onto the boat. Then he gave us some cold, wet face towels which smelled like flowers, to help us cool off.

It takes about 30 minutes on the shuttle to get to the Sofitel, which is literally on the opposite side of the island than the airport. It gives you a great first opportunity to get some pictures and see most of the island. There are so many resorts with over-water bungalows!!

In sum, our experience with Air Tahiti was alright. Despite the inefficient check-in operations, the airline feels safe and is comparable to any domestic carrier in Canada. They also seem to manage to run on time, which is important.

Next to come- a review of the Sofitel Motu Private island and our return trip to YOW.
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Old Feb 5, 12, 10:20 am   #8
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YOW aka Government Town
Programs: AC Aeroplan, A|Club Gold
Posts: 132
Review- Sofitel Bora Bora Motu Private Island


Before booking our honeymoon, we did extensive research on accommodations. We had known for quite some time that Bora Bora would be the location, but choosing accommodations proved to be quite difficult. Not only am I writing this trip report to let everyone know about our trip; I’m also writing this to give information to those considering a potential trip to Bora Bora, a location which is becoming more and more popular.

Not only am I going to tell you how our stay at the Sofitel was; I’m also going to provide an assessment on why I believe that, for the average person(s), the Sofitel is likely the best place to stay in Bora Bora.

Before I start my rant, I should mention that we stayed in an Over-Water Bungalow (OWB) on the private island, for a total of 9 nights. This gave us enough time to get an overall perspective on the operations of the hotel.

So, without further delay, here are my reasons for why I believe the Sofitel offers the best possible stay in Bora Bora for the non-“Super rich”.


(1) The Cost factor

French Polynesia, and Bora Bora in Particular, is expensive. It’s expensive to get to, expensive to stay in, and expensive to live in. After much research, we found a particularly good deal on the Sofitel through expedia, when booked in combination with our airline tickets. We were able to get an OWB for 9 nights, for just over $450 CDN per night. You may think that this is expensive; however, OWB’s at the other resorts in Bora Bora run for $700 plus a night, at least.

The Sofitel Bora Bora is divided into 2 components. There is the main resort part, and there is the private island, which you must take a quick shuttle boat to. We elected to stay on the private island, which offers larger OWB’s for the same price as the main resort. Our OWB was really nice and spacious, with modern amenities, North American style power outlets, and two decks on the water.

Another consideration is the cost of food in Bora Bora. “All inclusive” does not seem to exist in the part of the world, though most resorts will offer a meal plan. I do not suggest getting the meal plans, as they are astronomically expensive. Based on my TR thus far, many of you may think that I’m “cheap”. However, I think that many of you will agree that paying $50 for a hamburger and fries is “unappetizing” in any language.

For those who don’t know, the wonderful French Polynesian government subsidizes many “traditional” French food items, so that they are within reach for the average local person to eat on a regular basis. This means that items such as fresh baguettes, cheeses and deli meat are actually quite cheap (i.e. $0.50 CDN for a baguette). About a 5 minute walk from the Sofitel exists one of the 3 grocery stores in Bora Bora, the Tiare Market. The Tiare Market is quite a bit more expensive than the main grocery store in the town of Vaitape; however, it is still reasonable. We made many trips to this grocery store to keep our mini fridge full of food. We also saved a fortune, as we didn’t have to eat every meal at a restaurant (the food in the restaurants doesn’t seem great anyways). Based on our ininerary, I think that eating every meal at a restaurant would have cost $3000 CDN.

The grocery stores are also good as they sell booze at a reasonable price. Drink prices at the Sofitel bar were about $22 per drink. People would go for happy hour and that’s it.

Now, I know that many people will think that the four seasons or St. Regis would be astronomically better than the Sofitel. I’m sure in some respects, these people are right. But there is a reason that the rich and famous pick these types of hotels. That being, they have no issue with paying upwards of $200 for each meal of the day, every meal. These resorts are located on the “motu” portion of Bora Bora. Staying here would make it significantly difficult to access a grocery store on any regular basis; with the Sofitel, this was quite easy.

(2) The staff

I found that the staff at the Sofitel were all incredibly friendly and eager to please. Though I have can’t compare the quality of the staff to other resorts in the area, I believe that the service was on par, if not better than other resorts. For example, when we arrived at the resort, we were greeted by a porter. There was us and three other couples. He knew where everyone was from. He greeted a couple in French, and had a quick conversation with them. Then he approached another couple, greeted them in German, and told them about the hotel and other information. Next, he came to speak with us, in English. At this point, I was impressed. However, my eyes just about popped out of my head when he approached the other couple, and addressed and spoke to them in Japanese. This is just an example of how in many respects, the resort went “over the top” to make you feel comfortable. I almost wanted to tell this individual that he was in the wrong career path.

He also gave us drinks in a coconut, and made check-in really easy.

Once in our room, the staff would often drop off treats and snacks for us, such as cookies and fruit platters. We got at least one platter per day.

Everyone was just so friendly. You could ask the staff to do anything for you and they would. They would also flat-out refuse tips (in some cases, I believe tipping can be construed as an insult there). Polynesian people, without a doubt, are just about the most content people that I’ve ever met.

(3) The location

Say what you will, the Sofitel has, without a doubt, the best real estate in all of Bora Bora. Like I said earlier, you have easy access to the main island and the grocery stores, etc.; however, it is the private island component that is the most spectacular. It is a small island, in the lagoon. It has approximately 20 rooms on it, the large majority of them being OWB’s. As a result, you feel like the island is completely yours, even when all of the rooms are full. It was always quiet- you can really relax there and disconnect from the stresses of real life. You cannot access the private island unless you are staying there (this even applies to guests on the main island sofitel- the one exception being if you want to have breakfast at the restaurant on the private island). Many of the families with kids would stay on the main resort. It was mostly just couples on the private island.

The private island has many good things going for it. It has a phenomenal look-out point, which is great for taking photos of the lagoon. You can also walk from your OWB (with watershoes) to a place called the coral garden. The coral garden offers the best snorkeling on the entire island. The other resorts all have to take their guests there on excursions via boats. It was just around the corner for us! I would go there multiple times per day and would spend hours snorkeling. It doesn’t take long to find amazing fish, sharks and rays.

All of the OWB’s on the private island face Mt. Otemanu, the mountain at the centre of Bora Bora. It was nice to sit on our back deck in the morning, being able to look at the mountain while eating our breakfast.


All in all, we were happy with the Sofitel. Would we stay there again? Definitely. However, we did come to the conclusion that 9 nights in Bora Bora was a bit much. If, or when we do it again, we will likely do a few nights on as many different islands as possible.
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Old Feb 7, 12, 1:08 pm   #9
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posts: 674
Thanks for sharing and glad you enjoyed. Not sure where you booked that rate from, but not a bad price. Some sofitels around the world in a standard room go for $400 a night.
I hope you at least a nice romantic dinner overlooking the water!
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Old Feb 7, 12, 4:34 pm   #10
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YOW aka Government Town
Programs: AC Aeroplan, A|Club Gold
Posts: 132
Yes! We spent nearly all of our time on the back decks of our bungalow. It's so nice to be able to jump right off your balcony into the ocean! We had plenty of meals out there too. A phenomenal place.
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