Red Light Filter for Bora Bora Underwater Pics
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Red Light Filter for Bora Bora Underwater Pics
Hey folks,
Will be in Bora Bora in about 10 days. Have my Go Pro and underwater stick to hold it and get some good pics.
Question I'm struggling with : Do I need a red light filter? The diving will be fairly shallow, water very clear. I'm thinking no but wanted to ask anyway.
Thanks.
Will be in Bora Bora in about 10 days. Have my Go Pro and underwater stick to hold it and get some good pics.
Question I'm struggling with : Do I need a red light filter? The diving will be fairly shallow, water very clear. I'm thinking no but wanted to ask anyway.
Thanks.
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 38,410
I would not be inclined to use any sort of color filter these days. Shoot it as natural as possible and fix things afterwards if need be. Filters on the camera lose data.
(Note: I'm not objecting to all filters. Polarizers act on information that's not recorded in the frame and thus couldn't be fixed afterwards. Neutral density filters simply let you use a slower shot to introduce motion blur into a shot that otherwise wouldn't have it. UV filters likewise have an effect that isn't recorded in the film in the first place. If you can't shoot multiple shots then I can see a reason for a graduated neutral density filter.)
(Note: I'm not objecting to all filters. Polarizers act on information that's not recorded in the frame and thus couldn't be fixed afterwards. Neutral density filters simply let you use a slower shot to introduce motion blur into a shot that otherwise wouldn't have it. UV filters likewise have an effect that isn't recorded in the film in the first place. If you can't shoot multiple shots then I can see a reason for a graduated neutral density filter.)
#4
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#5
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I would not be inclined to use any sort of color filter these days. Shoot it as natural as possible and fix things afterwards if need be. Filters on the camera lose data.
(Note: I'm not objecting to all filters. Polarizers act on information that's not recorded in the frame and thus couldn't be fixed afterwards. Neutral density filters simply let you use a slower shot to introduce motion blur into a shot that otherwise wouldn't have it. UV filters likewise have an effect that isn't recorded in the film in the first place. If you can't shoot multiple shots then I can see a reason for a graduated neutral density filter.)
(Note: I'm not objecting to all filters. Polarizers act on information that's not recorded in the frame and thus couldn't be fixed afterwards. Neutral density filters simply let you use a slower shot to introduce motion blur into a shot that otherwise wouldn't have it. UV filters likewise have an effect that isn't recorded in the film in the first place. If you can't shoot multiple shots then I can see a reason for a graduated neutral density filter.)
#6
Join Date: Jul 2013
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#7
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 38,410
The simplest thing is a grey card: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_card which is just what it sounds like--a piece of gray material. To get greater accuracy there are also color charts: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_chart .
The point of these is to have something in the frame of an exactly known color. If you know the card is 18% gray then you adjust the color balance of the shot (the good editing tools will understand how to figure this with little effort) so that the image of the card really is 18% gray--and thus correcting everything else in the process.
The color targets allow correcting for a greater degree of discrepancies and are quite useful for calibrating color-handling equipment. Take a standard color target and make a scan of it. If the numbers in the scan aren't spot on you know the scanner is off and by how much--you create a color profile for the scanner that corrects for these things. Once your scanner is calibrated you can print a test pattern on your printer and scan it, this will find the discrepancies in the printer and allow the creation of a correction profile for it.
#8
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Central California
Programs: Former UA Premex, now dirt
Posts: 6,531
It sounds like the OP doesn't post-process photos, just shooting jpeg and using the camera image. If that is the case, having a true color target isn't going to help much.
You might check to see if your camera has a "picture setting," or whatever your particular camera manufacturer calls it, for underwater shooting. The object would be to offset the blue shift caused by the water. If all else fails, I might try setting the camera for sunset, which should redden up the images a bit, or use the custom color setting to shift the Kelvin temperature to the red a little. If you won't be adjusting the images after the fact, it will probably come down to trial and error.
You might check to see if your camera has a "picture setting," or whatever your particular camera manufacturer calls it, for underwater shooting. The object would be to offset the blue shift caused by the water. If all else fails, I might try setting the camera for sunset, which should redden up the images a bit, or use the custom color setting to shift the Kelvin temperature to the red a little. If you won't be adjusting the images after the fact, it will probably come down to trial and error.
#10
Join Date: Apr 2016
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No filter is best especially because it restricts amount of light coming in and you definitely don't need that underwater. Shoot it in raw instead of Jpeg if possible (raw is uncompressed). That will give you the most ability to get it right after. You can play with the exposure a lot more and color of a raw image.
#11
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Central California
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If the OP will post-process his images, Raw is a good idea for more control. Since it seems he does not intend to do post-processing, shooting in Raw would be a mistake.
#14
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