Terminator8

Will be in Colombia shortly and I've got my schedule pretty well laid out except for the last part. I'm interested in seeing Popayan, Tierradentro Tombs, San Agustin, Purace Magical Moorland. Not sure how to do all this though.

Any advice/thoughts? Should I base out of Cali and do day trips or?

JohnnyColombia

No, this is a well trodden route but there really is no need to go to Cali. You can do it forwards or backwards.

Neiva (Visit Tatacoa if you have a spare day)
Drive on to San Agustín, or go on a bus. Visit archeological park, Alto de los Ídolos and Estrecho del Magdalena
Drive onto Tierradentro. This is a good 7 hours overland. It's possible to do on a bus but I have no idea how. The road sucks and has lots of roadworks.
Drive from Tierradentro, across the Páramo de Puracé and then on to Popayán
Fly out of Popayán

Popayán is 3 hours from Cali and still about 7 hours from Tierradentro. San Agustín from Cali is anything up to 12 hours.

The above route is nice, you need a minimum of 6 days

If you are not seriously into archeology then skip Tierradentro. It is a hell of a long way to go just to say you have been there. San Agustín to Popayán is an easy bus route so without Tierradentro you could go Popayán - San Agustín - Popayán.

Terminator8

Thanks Johnny. I've got a friend in Cali and she wants to come so she'll help figure out the buses to Tierradentro. I don't really want to have to deal with rental cars and driving over there.

Tatacoa is on my list. I'm debating between doing it as a day tour from Bogota (a tour guide offered me this option, early pickup and very late drop off at hotel). But perhaps it makes more sense to do it out of Neiva.

JohnnyColombia

No definitely do not do Tierradentro in a rental car. You need a 4WD anyway. I was suggesting you hire someone that knows that way and knows the second and third ways too in case a bridge collapses or there is a mudslide or something.

I really have no idea how buses could work, Tierradentro is not even really a place. It's just a hotel, a museum and a restaurant run by dwarves. San Andrés de Pisimbalá is a place where the pretty church is that you may have seen in photos.

Tatacoa from Bogotá as a day trip is a rubbish idea. I have always taken the bus down to Neiva and Tatacoa because I am an FTer that does not like flying. But you are talking up to 3 hours just to get out of Bogotá. It's about 180 miles and seems to take longer each time I do it. a good 7 hours each way last time I did it. Stay the night in Villavieja, then do Tatacoa, then head to San Agustín. Or better still, spend the night in the desert.

Edit: Or spend the night in Neiva. I love Neiva, it's always summer and it's always 1985. All the girls wear abnormally fluorescent tops. Stay somewhere like GHL Style Neiva and you have a couple of decent pubs on your doorstep and a mall for ice cream.

Terminator8

Good idea regarding the desert. I think the way it was set up with the guide he would pick me up from Bogota at 5am, and then drop me back off at the hotel at 11:30pm. So very long day but enough time at the desert. But I'll give your suggestion some thought.

I'm a little picky with lodging and I found the options somewhat lacking in Villavieja but I'll give it another look and see what I can find.

Terminator8

Going to stay at the GHL Neiva for 2 nights. 1st night for arrival and 2nd day Don Chopo will get us for a private tour in Tattacoa, then take us back to hotel. Thanks Johnny, excellent suggestion. Now time to work the rest of the puzzle for the rest of the places I mentioned.

JohnnyColombia

Sounds like a cool plan. If you get to Neiva early enough then try to get down to the Malecón for grilled meat on a giant banana leaf. Lots of iguanas up in the trees by the river too.



Villavieja is cute, take some time to hang out there a bit. It is reputedly the only place in Colombia that has neither a police station nor a brothel. There is a place there called Hotel Yararaka, it's lovely but the walls do not go all the way up to the ceiling so I have always been put off by that. GHL Neiva is a good choice, nice staff, decent rooms and one of my favourite cities.

Terminator8

GHL has great reviews! That meat looks good, we should have time to do it.