Israel and Jordan
Apr 9, 2015, 8:06 am
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Israel and Jordan
I searched and could not find a thread on this. My husband and I are planing our first trip to the area. We are doing the newbie trip of combined Israel and Jordan. Our thought is to fly into one country and move overland to the other and fly out of the second country. Here is my question.
Which direction is easier? Is it easier to fly into AMM and travel overland to Israel and fly out of TLV? or is it easier the other way?
How difficult is it to travel between the two countries overland? Because the Dead Sea is between Amman and Jerusalem, we thought overland with a stop at the Dead Sea might be more efficient. Is that correct? How is the public transport between Amman, Dead Sea, and Jerusalem? We are open to hire a driver or rent a car in either country.
Many thanks in advance.
Which direction is easier? Is it easier to fly into AMM and travel overland to Israel and fly out of TLV? or is it easier the other way?
How difficult is it to travel between the two countries overland? Because the Dead Sea is between Amman and Jerusalem, we thought overland with a stop at the Dead Sea might be more efficient. Is that correct? How is the public transport between Amman, Dead Sea, and Jerusalem? We are open to hire a driver or rent a car in either country.
Many thanks in advance.
Apr 9, 2015, 9:33 am
#2
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It is definitely slightly easier to travel from Jordan to Israel overland than the other way around only because you can't get a visa on arrival when crossing into Jordan via the Allenby Bridge. But "slightly" since you can get the visa on crossing by the other 2 crossings.
Flying out of AMM though may be easier from dealing with security than flying out of TLV, so it really can be a toss-up.
Flying out of AMM though may be easier from dealing with security than flying out of TLV, so it really can be a toss-up.
Apr 10, 2015, 4:33 am
#3
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 377
I would fly into Amman and fly back from Tel-Aviv. Security flying out of TLV is not a problem for the average tourist - certainly not enough to warrant consideration in planning your trip.
There are two options for crossing the border: The King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge, located between Amman and Jerusalem, or the Arava crossing between Eilat and Aqaba.
You can visit the Dead Sea on either side. It depends what you want to do. If you just want to go for a dip (no more than 15 minutes because you cannot really swim) then either side is an option. If you want to spend a day or two at a spa, then the Jordanian side is generally considered better value. However there are three sites on the Israeli side that are worth visiting - Massada, Qumran and the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve.
Another site in Jordan is Wadi Rum (where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed). There are jeep tours, Bedouin camps, etc, available there.
You don't say how long your vacation is, what your interests are and what you have planned for the rst of the time in Israel (Galilee, Tel-Aviv, etc ??). What I suggest is to spend a day in Amman and visit Madaba and Jerash, then rent a car and drive to Petra, Wadi Rum and Aqaba. Return the car and cross over to Israel (this is the easiest crossing). There are several options from there: if you are planning a big tour of Israel you could fly to Tel-Aviv, rent a car and drive to the Galilee, Dead Sea and Jerusalem (return the car). If you are planning only to visit Jerusalem, rent a car in Eilat and drive to Jerusalem via the Dead Sea.
Please post more details.
There are two options for crossing the border: The King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge, located between Amman and Jerusalem, or the Arava crossing between Eilat and Aqaba.
You can visit the Dead Sea on either side. It depends what you want to do. If you just want to go for a dip (no more than 15 minutes because you cannot really swim) then either side is an option. If you want to spend a day or two at a spa, then the Jordanian side is generally considered better value. However there are three sites on the Israeli side that are worth visiting - Massada, Qumran and the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve.
Another site in Jordan is Wadi Rum (where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed). There are jeep tours, Bedouin camps, etc, available there.
You don't say how long your vacation is, what your interests are and what you have planned for the rst of the time in Israel (Galilee, Tel-Aviv, etc ??). What I suggest is to spend a day in Amman and visit Madaba and Jerash, then rent a car and drive to Petra, Wadi Rum and Aqaba. Return the car and cross over to Israel (this is the easiest crossing). There are several options from there: if you are planning a big tour of Israel you could fly to Tel-Aviv, rent a car and drive to the Galilee, Dead Sea and Jerusalem (return the car). If you are planning only to visit Jerusalem, rent a car in Eilat and drive to Jerusalem via the Dead Sea.
Please post more details.
Apr 10, 2015, 1:18 pm
#4
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,187
You fail to post your citizenship(s) and that of your husband. If either of you has Israeli citizenship, crossing at the Allenby bridge is not permitted.
Public transit in Jordan is fine. But taxis are quite affordable as well. Taxis are honest and run on the meter; however, it is sometimes possible to negotiate a lower flat rate particularly if hiring a taxi for the day.
Shared taxis are even more affordable, but are a unique experience. If you are younger, by all means you should experience this once as it gives one a better sense of the local culture.
The Jordanian bus line is at http://jett.com.jo/.
If you wish to minimize travel cost, take the Royal Jordanian bus from AMM into the city and then arrange transit from there.
There is much to see in Jordan. Don't pass up Petra. If you want to see the Negev, head south from the Dead Sea and cross at Aqaba.
Jordanians are quite friendly, btw, to Americans. I have never had any problems there no have single female travelers I have known.
The procedure for crossing at the Allenby, west to east:
Go to the appropriate departure terminal (one for Jordanians and Palestinians, the other for all others). Walking between the two is difficult, so don't get off the bus at the wrong stop.
Report to passport control at the terminal.
Wait for the crossing bus. There is a small fee, payable in JOD.
Arrive at the Israeli station.
Present all baggage for inspection, go through passport control, and wait for baggage to appear on the belt.
Walk to the curb.
Purchase a "taxi" ticket to Jerusalem (payable in NIS or JOD); the taxi is a modern minibus.
If one travels east to west, one has to pay a departure tax leaving Israel. Additionally, you should note that Jordanian visas are not issued at the Allenby (though they are at the crossings from Israel proper to Jordan). Jordanian visas can easily be obtained in advance, by post, from the Jordanian Embassy in Washington or on arrival into AMM airport. They can also be obtained from the Jordanian Embassy in Israel, though that might be more cumbersome.
Public transit in Jordan is fine. But taxis are quite affordable as well. Taxis are honest and run on the meter; however, it is sometimes possible to negotiate a lower flat rate particularly if hiring a taxi for the day.
Shared taxis are even more affordable, but are a unique experience. If you are younger, by all means you should experience this once as it gives one a better sense of the local culture.
The Jordanian bus line is at http://jett.com.jo/.
If you wish to minimize travel cost, take the Royal Jordanian bus from AMM into the city and then arrange transit from there.
There is much to see in Jordan. Don't pass up Petra. If you want to see the Negev, head south from the Dead Sea and cross at Aqaba.
Jordanians are quite friendly, btw, to Americans. I have never had any problems there no have single female travelers I have known.
The procedure for crossing at the Allenby, west to east:
Go to the appropriate departure terminal (one for Jordanians and Palestinians, the other for all others). Walking between the two is difficult, so don't get off the bus at the wrong stop.
Report to passport control at the terminal.
Wait for the crossing bus. There is a small fee, payable in JOD.
Arrive at the Israeli station.
Present all baggage for inspection, go through passport control, and wait for baggage to appear on the belt.
Walk to the curb.
Purchase a "taxi" ticket to Jerusalem (payable in NIS or JOD); the taxi is a modern minibus.
If one travels east to west, one has to pay a departure tax leaving Israel. Additionally, you should note that Jordanian visas are not issued at the Allenby (though they are at the crossings from Israel proper to Jordan). Jordanian visas can easily be obtained in advance, by post, from the Jordanian Embassy in Washington or on arrival into AMM airport. They can also be obtained from the Jordanian Embassy in Israel, though that might be more cumbersome.
Apr 10, 2015, 3:09 pm
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: IAH
Programs: UA MM, AA almost MM
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Wow... I really appreciate the insights. Extra information: we are both US citizens. Have a total of 13 days to split between Israel and Jordan. The idea is 4 days for Jordan with 1.5 to 2 days at Petra. The rest for AMM and other sights. A dip in the Dead Sea. We are not the resort or beach type but Dead Sea is so special, we had to give it a try. We might add more days if we think more time is needed after hearing from the experts like you. Of course, we can always come back.
Assuming arriving in TLV and returning to US from AMM. This is our original outline:
Fly into TLV, 2 days at TLV, a lot of days in Jerusalem, rent a car for day trips in Israel, drop car off near Dead Sea (not sure if possible), cross into Jordan spend 4 days either with hired driver or private tour to Petra for 2 days and 2 nights in AMM. We are a little worried (may be unjustified) about driving in Jordan. Fly out of AMM.
If arriving in AMM and retuning from TLV, then sequence is just reversed. Thank you very much for your helpful suggestions. You have given me a lot of ways to mix up the plan I had outlined above. Had not thought about Eliat but cross border at Eliat and rent a car sounds tempting.
Love to hear more suggestions. It is good to hear that public transport is so well developed even for crossing the border. Please tell me more.
Assuming arriving in TLV and returning to US from AMM. This is our original outline:
Fly into TLV, 2 days at TLV, a lot of days in Jerusalem, rent a car for day trips in Israel, drop car off near Dead Sea (not sure if possible), cross into Jordan spend 4 days either with hired driver or private tour to Petra for 2 days and 2 nights in AMM. We are a little worried (may be unjustified) about driving in Jordan. Fly out of AMM.
If arriving in AMM and retuning from TLV, then sequence is just reversed. Thank you very much for your helpful suggestions. You have given me a lot of ways to mix up the plan I had outlined above. Had not thought about Eliat but cross border at Eliat and rent a car sounds tempting.
Love to hear more suggestions. It is good to hear that public transport is so well developed even for crossing the border. Please tell me more.
Apr 10, 2015, 4:04 pm
#6
Join Date: Mar 2007
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2 days is too much for TLV, given how much else there is. Also more than a couple of days in Jerusalem is a lot (unless you are including day trips to the Dead Sea, Bethlehem, etc). There's lots more to see in Israel, Haifa, Tiberias for example. I wish I had spent more time in Jordan. Jerash is on my wish list.
Apr 10, 2015, 8:40 pm
#7
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 377
There is no crossing at the Dead Sea and you cannot return a car at the King Hussein (Allenby Bridge). You would have to return the car in Amman or Jerusalem and take a taxi or sherut to the bridge.
You should definitely allot more than two days to Jerusalem!! It is a unique city and has much to offer, both in the Old and New cities.
You should definitely allot more than two days to Jerusalem!! It is a unique city and has much to offer, both in the Old and New cities.
Apr 10, 2015, 9:31 pm
#8
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,187
There are three crossings between Israel and Jordan to choose from. The northern crossing (Sheikh Hussein) would be out of the way for you, unless you change your plans and decide to go to Nazareth and the Galilee. The central crossing is best reach by the scheduled shared taxi from Jerusalem (across from the Damascus gate of the old city). Traveling from the Dead Sea directly to the Allenby Bridge/King Hussein Bridge (the central crossing) is possible, but can be quite time consuming with security checks and on some days may not advisable or even possible depending upon local security situations.
You may wish to head south from the Dead Sea and cross between Eliat and Aqaba at the Rabin/Arava crossing. If you do, note that entry into Jordan is free for those not going directly to Amman. Additionally, the Israeli exit fee is less there.
You will save a little money (NIS 5) by paying the Israeli exit fee at any Post Office Bank in Israel prior to going to the border; just present the receipt at the border. (When you fly out of Israel, the exit tax is included in one's airline ticket).
http://mfa.gov.il/MFA/ConsularServic...ng_points.aspx
http://www.iaa.gov.il/en-US/borders/Pages/default.aspx
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...nMi91Dc4&msa=0
http://www.iaa.gov.il/en-US/borders/...015_eng-GB.pdf
Taxis in Israel are honest, but much more expensive that in Jordan.
One thing to pack that few, if any, guidebooks mention: a pocket compass. Such can be quite useful in the old city.
Renting a car in Israeli and returning in Jordan is near impossible. When returning the car in Israel, take the time to make sure that the car is checked-in by the car hire company as in same condition as when you took it out. If memory serves, it is better to use a MasterCard than a Visa to rent a car -- something about the insurance. But check before leaving. Traffic in Israel - particularly near Tel Aviv can be quite bad.
Israeli bus information:
http://www.bus.co.il/otobusimmvc/?De...lt&Language=en
http://www.egged.co.il/HomePage.aspx
There is also a limited train system which includes TLV airport and Jerusalem.
http://www.rail.co.il/EN/Pages/Homepage.aspx
Unless you are the nightclub type or the beach type, I'd suggest considering skipping Tel Aviv altogether; however, you may wish to visit Jaffa, the Palestinian city that adjoins Tel Aviv.
If time allows, I'd suggest spending some time in Ramallah, it is the main city on the West Bank, generally safe, and only 12miles from Jerusalem. Inquire locally in Jerusalem when you are there just to make sure that there are no troubles that day.
You may wish to head south from the Dead Sea and cross between Eliat and Aqaba at the Rabin/Arava crossing. If you do, note that entry into Jordan is free for those not going directly to Amman. Additionally, the Israeli exit fee is less there.
You will save a little money (NIS 5) by paying the Israeli exit fee at any Post Office Bank in Israel prior to going to the border; just present the receipt at the border. (When you fly out of Israel, the exit tax is included in one's airline ticket).
http://mfa.gov.il/MFA/ConsularServic...ng_points.aspx
http://www.iaa.gov.il/en-US/borders/Pages/default.aspx
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...nMi91Dc4&msa=0
http://www.iaa.gov.il/en-US/borders/...015_eng-GB.pdf
Taxis in Israel are honest, but much more expensive that in Jordan.
One thing to pack that few, if any, guidebooks mention: a pocket compass. Such can be quite useful in the old city.
Renting a car in Israeli and returning in Jordan is near impossible. When returning the car in Israel, take the time to make sure that the car is checked-in by the car hire company as in same condition as when you took it out. If memory serves, it is better to use a MasterCard than a Visa to rent a car -- something about the insurance. But check before leaving. Traffic in Israel - particularly near Tel Aviv can be quite bad.
Israeli bus information:
http://www.bus.co.il/otobusimmvc/?De...lt&Language=en
http://www.egged.co.il/HomePage.aspx
There is also a limited train system which includes TLV airport and Jerusalem.
http://www.rail.co.il/EN/Pages/Homepage.aspx
Unless you are the nightclub type or the beach type, I'd suggest considering skipping Tel Aviv altogether; however, you may wish to visit Jaffa, the Palestinian city that adjoins Tel Aviv.
If time allows, I'd suggest spending some time in Ramallah, it is the main city on the West Bank, generally safe, and only 12miles from Jerusalem. Inquire locally in Jerusalem when you are there just to make sure that there are no troubles that day.
Last edited by Indelaware; Apr 10, 2015 at 9:41 pm
Apr 11, 2015, 6:01 am
#9
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Spent about a week in Jordan. Loved the Dead Sea and was fun bobbing around. Liked Jerash and Petra of course. Was not a fan of Wadi Rum and the camp we stayed at. The Desert had many tire tracks in it, unlike all the pics you see of an undisturbed desert and people inviting you in to their camp/home for hospitality but to me it really was a ploy to get you to buy something or give them money.
Apr 11, 2015, 8:55 am
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: IAH
Programs: UA MM, AA almost MM
Posts: 1,164
Thank you so much, everyone, for the advises. Our trip is in late October and I am changing my plans based on your knowledge. My husband and I are concerned about going in and out of Palestinian cities, thinking that the checkpoints might be crazy. We do not plan to drive in large cities, taking rental car to places where public transport might be too inefficient as we want to pack in as much as we can in 13 days. We understand that the driving in Israel is a lot like in the US and can be crazy in Jordan. How is driving in and out of Palestinian cities? Would you recommend taxi instead giving the distances are not so great.
Thank you for the clarification of rental car, Dead Sea and crossing. The links are especially helpful. We will make it a stop for one of driving days.
We have not considered Eilat mainly because we do not want to spend a day just driving. Giving Petra is so far south already, our drive time estimate between Jerusalem, Eilat and Petra might be wrong. Is it possible to hire a driver in AMM and have him drop us off in Eilat?
Thanks so much again. My plans are forming nicely thanks to your help.
Thank you for the clarification of rental car, Dead Sea and crossing. The links are especially helpful. We will make it a stop for one of driving days.
We have not considered Eilat mainly because we do not want to spend a day just driving. Giving Petra is so far south already, our drive time estimate between Jerusalem, Eilat and Petra might be wrong. Is it possible to hire a driver in AMM and have him drop us off in Eilat?
Thanks so much again. My plans are forming nicely thanks to your help.
Apr 11, 2015, 9:21 am
#11
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 377
You cannot take an Israeli rental car into areas controlled by the Palestinian Authority - Jericho, Ramallah, Hebron, Bethlehem, Jenin, Tulkarm, Kalkilya - because the insurance is not valid in those areas. You can drive in areas of the West Bank controlled by Israel (known as "Area C"), e.g. Highway 1 from Jerusalem to the Dead Sea and Highway 90 through the Jordan Valley. If you want to visit any of these Palestinian cities, the easiest way is to take a bus from East Jerusalem (the bus station is near the Damascus Gate). By all accounts it is not difficult for tourists to pass through the checkpoints - certainly not when going to Bethlehem - just make sure that you have your passport with you.
You can easily check driving times on "Google Maps". The advantages of going to Eilat are (a) the crossing there is much easier than the Allenby Bridge, (b) You can fly to Tel-Aviv from Eilat and save a lot of driving time. Look for the domestic flights on the "Arkia" and "Israir" web sites.
However if you drive from Eilat, you can also consider driving via Mitspe Ramon and visiting the Ramon Crater, Avdat, Sde Boker, etc. Perhaps you should extend your vacation :-)
You can easily check driving times on "Google Maps". The advantages of going to Eilat are (a) the crossing there is much easier than the Allenby Bridge, (b) You can fly to Tel-Aviv from Eilat and save a lot of driving time. Look for the domestic flights on the "Arkia" and "Israir" web sites.
However if you drive from Eilat, you can also consider driving via Mitspe Ramon and visiting the Ramon Crater, Avdat, Sde Boker, etc. Perhaps you should extend your vacation :-)
Apr 11, 2015, 12:35 pm
#12
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 18
Indelaware's explanation is really good. My wife and I crossed into Jordan from Israel / West Bank at the Allenby / King Hussein Bridge and it took about three and a half hours, which included mostly waiting for buses to ferry us between the border (one Palestinian border area, then Israeli, then Jordanian), needing a separate bus each time. And then there are different buses for West Bank Palestinians, Jerusalem Palestinians, and non-Palestinian foreigners. And different lines at the Israeli border area as well, which isn't made very clear.
Also, the Allenby crossing costs 176 shekels per person for the exit tax while all other land borders are 101. So keep in mind the extra cost in addition to time.
If you enter Jordan through a West Bank border, you'll need a visa in advance, as they don't offer visa-on-arrival.
We re-entered Israel through Eilat and it was very easy. They did stamp our passport without asking, which I found unusual since when entering and exiting Tel Aviv and Allenby they simply give you the blue entry paper.
Israel exit tax list: http://www.iaa.gov.il/en-US/borders/...015_eng-GB.pdf
Also, the Allenby crossing costs 176 shekels per person for the exit tax while all other land borders are 101. So keep in mind the extra cost in addition to time.
If you enter Jordan through a West Bank border, you'll need a visa in advance, as they don't offer visa-on-arrival.
We re-entered Israel through Eilat and it was very easy. They did stamp our passport without asking, which I found unusual since when entering and exiting Tel Aviv and Allenby they simply give you the blue entry paper.
Israel exit tax list: http://www.iaa.gov.il/en-US/borders/...015_eng-GB.pdf
Apr 11, 2015, 1:07 pm
#13
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,187
It may well be most efficient for you to visit the Dead Sea on the Jordanian side rather than the Israeli side.
Oh, and by all means stop and get a sack of absolutely wonderful tomatoes from a roadside farmer. About $3 will get you more than you likely eat in a year.
Oh, and by all means stop and get a sack of absolutely wonderful tomatoes from a roadside farmer. About $3 will get you more than you likely eat in a year.
Apr 11, 2015, 2:44 pm
#14
Join Date: Jun 2014
Programs: UA MM
Posts: 4,124
Simplest approach is just to catch a flight between AMM and TLV.
Definitely spend more than two days in Jerusalem... you'll be kicking yourself afterward if you don't. Many great places to visit around the Sea of Galilee, too. Frankly, you'll run out of time before you run out of interesting and worthwhile things to do through Israel.
Definitely spend more than two days in Jerusalem... you'll be kicking yourself afterward if you don't. Many great places to visit around the Sea of Galilee, too. Frankly, you'll run out of time before you run out of interesting and worthwhile things to do through Israel.
Apr 11, 2015, 4:31 pm
#15
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,187
Simple does not mean best. I'd flown it. Never again. Between time at AMM and, IME, the longer arrivals clearance at TLV rather than at the bridge, it doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention travel time between TLV and Jerusalem.
Besides, one gets a much better cultural experience overland -- and it costs much less.
And on top of that OP, is going to Israel first.
Besides, one gets a much better cultural experience overland -- and it costs much less.
And on top of that OP, is going to Israel first.