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Trip Report: Four Seasons Jackson Hole

Trip Report: Four Seasons Jackson Hole

Old Feb 8, 2009, 7:18 pm
  #1  
CMV
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Trip Report: Four Seasons Jackson Hole

Four Seasons Jackson Hole

Late last summer, we decided that we would go to Jackson Hole, WY for our (almost) annual ski trip. Below is our trip report. I have posted it here in the Luxury Hotels Forum because it mainly concerns our stay at the Four Seasons Jackson Hole. I will touch briefly on the skiing and dining. Our flights in an out on United (through Denver, in First) were wholly unremarkable.

Booking
We booked a standard room for eight nights through David O. (Virtuoso). We took advantage of a stay three nights, get the fourth free promotion. The Virtuoso benefits included an upgrade upon arrival, subject to availability, breakfast for two daily in the restaurant and a “Western Welcome Amenity”.

Arrival and Check In
Owing to a delay leaving Denver, we did not arrive at the hotel until about 11:00 p.m. No matter, we were immediately greeted by a friendly doorman who directed us to the check in desk and unloaded our bags. We were not optimistic about an upgrade, so we were pleasantly surprised to learn that we had been upgraded from the standard room we had booked to a premium room on the sixth floor with a mountain view, a two-category upgrade. The check in agent welcomed us, explained our Virtuoso benefits and sent us on the way to our room with a friendly bellman. Our skis were taken down to the Ski Concierge.

Room
A description and picture of the room is available on the Four Seasons web site (http://www.fourseasons.com/jacksonho...mium_room.html)and, in fact, our room looked remarkably like the picture. Upon entrance, we had a large closet to the right; the bathroom with double sink, separate water closet, tub and glass-enclosed shower was to the left. We then had a king bed; a sitting area with two rather comfortable chairs, ottoman and a gas fireplace; and a balcony with two chairs and a small table. We had great views of Rendezvous Mountain and, right below us, the Teewinot quad chair and the Bridger gondola. Further to the left was the new clock tower and tram base station. (The old tram was torn down two years ago and the new 100 passenger tram opened December 2008.)

The bath products were L’Occitane. We rather liked the lemon verbena soap. The shampoo and conditioner were fine. We disliked the lotion as it was rather thin and greasy; far superior were the Bliss and Ivy Spa products we had brought with us.

Our room was always made up well when we returned from skiing or other activities. There were the usual Four Seasons touches, e.g., bookmarks in our books. Somewhat to our annoyance, our room was not turned down once during our eight-night stay because every evening Housekeeping came to turn down the room while we were there. Regardless whether we had dinner early or late, they got the timing wrong. A minor annoyance.

Our room was stocked with fresh fruit throughout our stay. The selection included apples (red and green), bananas, pears and oranges. We also found a platter of treats upon arrival, e.g., miniature tortes, dried fruit, buffalo jerky and fruit gelees. Quite tasty. Another evening, we returned to find out welcome amenity: a decent bottle of Argentinean red wine, various Buffalo sausages and jerky and dried fruit.

Dining
We had breakfast daily in the Westbank Grill (a Virtuoso benefit). The food was generally of high quality, but the service was inconsistent. For example, my wife ordered toast on three of the eight days. On day one, it was not brought and we had to ask for it. When it arrived, it was barely warm. On day two, it was ice cold. When we sent it back, it arrived lukewarm. And on day three it was, again, barely warm. It was a similar story with our attempts to order poached eggs. In contrast, the oatmeal always arrived hot and tasting freshly made. The banana bread tasted homemade and was quite good.

We have much better experiences dining in the lobby bar. The service was attentive and friendly, while the drinks were well made. The servers also got the little things correct, e.g., remembering that we had asked for the full wine bottle list the night before and offering it up before we could ask the following night. Of note food-wise were the truffle fries with aioli and the rabbit appetizer we ordered off of the Westbank Grill menu.

We also ordered room service one night, which arrived on time, hot and as ordered. We had ordered wine by the glass and the server brought the bottles, allowed us to taste the wine and then poured our glasses.

(As an aside, we thoroughly enjoyed two meals at Il Villagio Osteria in the new Terra Hotel in Teton Village. It had a compact but well chosen and reasonably priced wine list and well executed, flavorful and somewhat inventive Italian food. Of note were the Osteria Chop Salad, the ravioli of the day and the pizzas.)

Ski Concierge
The hotel has a Ski Concierge/Base Camp on the second floor with direct access to the mountain. Every morning, they put your skis and poles out on a rack. You just had to click in and hop on the gondola or Apres Vous quad. Every evening, they take your equipment as you finish skiing, dry it and store if for the evening. The Ski Concierge also sold items like hand warmers, goggles, etc. and rented high performance equipment. I had inquired about some demo skis in advance via email and received a prompt and informative response.

On our last day skiing I informed the gentleman taking our skis that we were checking out the next day and he arranged to have our skis dried and repackaged in our travel bag. The skis were dropped off in our room that evening while we were at dinner.

(Again as an aside, Jackson Hole is an incredible mountain that will challenge skiers at any level. We had fresh powder three out of five days, but because the mountain is so big and relatively uncrowded during the week, you could still find fresh snow on the days when it had not dumped six or twelve inches the night before.)

Hot tub/spa/s’mores
The hotel has a well appointed gym with the usual water, sports drink and apples. Periodically, an attendant would circulate with cool towels.

Most days after skiing, we would retreat to one of the three outdoor hut tubs. (There was also an outdoor heated pool, but we did not venture in.) The service here shined. An attendant followed us to the hot tub of our choice with a hanger, took our robes just as quickly as we could get out of them and hung them in a heated closet. Another attendant would then be around to take drink orders and offer complimentary hot chocolate and s’mores. We indulged in the s’mores most days, sometimes with glasses of wine, sometimes not. When we wanted to head back inside, we signaled to an attendant who retrieved our now warmed robes.

(And as a final aside, we would recommend the National Museum of Wildlife Art located just outside the town of Jackson Hole if you decide to take a day off from skiing.)

Overall
If you going to Jackson Hole to ski most days, the Four Seasons is a fabulous place to be. With the exception of inconsistent service at breakfast, everything – service, food, room – was of very high quality.

I had read here that the Aman property has better service, etc. than the Four Seasons, but to me the ideal ski trip hotel is the one with the best rooms, food and service as close to the mountain as possible. The Four Seasons more than satisfies.

If anyone has particular questions, I am happy to answer them. Alas, we did not take pictures of the hotel so we do not have pictures to share here.
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Old Feb 8, 2009, 7:29 pm
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Wow!! Thank you for such a wonderful trip report!!
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 6:19 am
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Great report. Thanks! I could use a s'more right about now.
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 9:45 am
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Great report, and makes it sound almost identical to the experience I had at FS Whistler - right down to the inconsistent breakfast!

As an aside, does anyone else feel the quality of four seasons breakfast all over the north american market is suffering? I know Asia and Europe are up to snuff, but I've been sorely disappointed with US/Canadian quality recently.
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 2:17 pm
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Within the last couple of months I've enjoyed breakfast at the FS Palm Beach, Atlanta, Canary Wharf, and Boston properties. All very good. Palm Beach was probably my favorite breakfast, excellent eggs benedict.
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 2:36 pm
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Within the past several months I have had the following thoughts:

Whistler -- service variable, food quality good to outstanding, though one can understand the challenges of places like Whistler and Jackson Hole with significant numbers of transient staff..

Vancouver -- always excellent
Los Angeles -- fantastic
Las Vegas -- fantastic

I am rarely disappointed with a Four Seasons breakfast.
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 2:44 pm
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Originally Posted by luxury
Within the past several months I have had the following thoughts:

Whistler -- service variable, food quality good to outstanding, though one can understand the challenges of places like Whistler and Jackson Hole with significant numbers of transient staff..

Vancouver -- always excellent
Los Angeles -- fantastic
Las Vegas -- fantastic

I am rarely disappointed with a Four Seasons breakfast.
I'll just chock it up to strangely consistent, but isolated instances then!
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 9:10 pm
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There are actually 2 mountains at Jackson Hole - the one on the left (facing the mountains) - where you can forget about skiing unless you're pretty darn good (expert or better) - and the one on the right which is more hospitable to beginners and intermediates. Where is the Four Seasons located with respect to the 2 mountains (is it ski-in/ski-out to one - or the other - or both (I haven't been to Jackson Hole since the Four Seasons was built). Robyn
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Old Feb 10, 2009, 5:20 am
  #9  
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Originally Posted by robyng
There are actually 2 mountains at Jackson Hole - the one on the left (facing the mountains) - where you can forget about skiing unless you're pretty darn good (expert or better) - and the one on the right which is more hospitable to beginners and intermediates. Where is the Four Seasons located with respect to the 2 mountains (is it ski-in/ski-out to one - or the other - or both (I haven't been to Jackson Hole since the Four Seasons was built). Robyn
Thanks all for the compliments.

Robyn,

It is ski-in, ski-out to both Apres Vous (beginner/intermediate) and Rendezvous (advanced/expert) Mountains. Right in front of the 4S is the Teewinot chair, which takes you up to the Apres Vous chair, which takes you to the top of Apres Vous. To the left of the Teewinot chair and thus also right in front of the 4S is the Bridger Gondola, which takes you party way up Rendezvous.
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Old Feb 10, 2009, 4:31 pm
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That sounds like a great location. FWIW - although our skiing days are over - Jackson Hole is a really nice destination (although - if I recall correctly - both early and late season snow tend to be spotty - I'd stick with a place like Snowbird for late season).

The town is really cute (and there are some good eats there).

You can take a snowmobile trip to Yellowstone to see Old Faithful. You should be in good shape and fairly "cold tolerant" to do this - it's a 90 mile round trip on a snowmobile. You should have seen me when I got back after 12 hours in the cold - my arms were frozen in the position of driving a snowmobile! I believe there is a "snow bus" tour to Old Faithful as well.

One thing about the skiing. When CMV (and others) say Rendezvous is advanced/expert - you better believe it (and if you don't - watch some Warren Miller DVDs). But it is interesting and occasionally terrifying to take a trip up to the top on the gondola (read there's a new one now) - and take a look. And then go back down on the gondola. If you don't - unless you're a real expert - we're talking more than "yard sale" - you stand a decent chance of winding up with a broken leg bone sticking through your boot (or worse). When we went up on the gondola to "sightsee" - we were the only people there who weren't ski instructors - and we took the only easy way down - the gondola .

Anyway - it sounds like the Four Seasons is a great addition to this ski resort. Just wish it had been there when I visited Jackson Hole. Robyn
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Old Apr 17, 2011, 8:25 pm
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Trip Report: Four Seasons Jackson Hole, December 2010

Instead of starting a new thread, it seemed more fitting to share our experience here since it mirrors CMV's.

Four Seasons Jackson Hole, December 2010

We needed an extra itinerary on Delta to ensure our 2011 benefits, and decided to pair it with a three-night stay at the Four Seasons after reading various comments on this forum and news reports about the projected effects of La Nińa. Soon our segment run turned into a longer family ski vacation in mid-December. My in-laws were able to join us for part of the trip, and we extended our stay to five nights given the "Ski Free" promotion. Since our dates bordered the traditional Saturday kick-off to the season, the FS was not completely up to speed in regards to consistency, but we had a fantastic time and plan to return. The hotel was beautifully decorated for the holidays, rooms were clean and well stocked, and the exercise facilities were a bonus on days I did not ski.

Flights
We were scheduled to arrive into JAC mid-day, but had weather-related flight issues coming from the east coast. Once in ATL, Delta had to split us on separate flights (one seat available through SLC and one of us would have to go all the way to SEA to connect), with only one of us arriving in JAC the same day. Not quite the way we had hoped to start the trip! We moved to a different sky club location to pass the time and checked with an agent one last time to see if any new seats were available. We soon found ourselves running to another terminal in order to catch a SLC flight and ended up in first, next to each other no less. I mention the flights only to say when faced with IRROPS - don't give up! (Not that any serious Flyertalker would, but this has been my first year learning the system.) Our return flights were uneventful; the direct JAC-ATL flight started that day which made travel less cumbersome.

JAC Airport Transfers to Jackson Hole Four Seasons
Based on research last December, the most economical options for transferring from the airport to the hotel in Teton Village (about a 30-minute drive) are by taxi or shuttle.

Taxi: Taxis in the area all have the same set rate to hotels in Teton Village ($55/one-way for up to two people); the hotel recommends a taxi service called "A Black Car Service" and their number is 307-413-2572. (We went with the Four Seasons recommendation, which was fine.)

Shuttle Service: All-Trans operates a shuttle service ($47 round-trip per person), but the prices online are non-refundable if flights are delayed/canceled and they may make other stops for passengers; their number is 800-443-6133.

Check-in and Room Description
We booked a standard room category since we did not expect to spend much time in our rooms. Thanks to David Ourisman (DavidO), both parties received a three-category upgrade on arrival to an Executive Suite, complimentary breakfast, one lunch, and welcome amentities. The Executive Suites, made up of a separate bedroom and living room, were exactly as described and shown online, so I did not take any room photos. Overall the room sizes are small, but adequate when spending the day outside. (And on par with what we have grown to expect at ski destinations.) The "powder room" next to the entrance is actually a second full bath since it has a shower. I can't recall if we even used that room since the main bathroom was so spacious, including double sinks and a private water closet.

The coat closet next to the front door was especially helpful to keep our damp ski clothes separate from our other items in the bedroom. The room was in excellent condition and remarkably clean during our stay.

On arrival, one suite had a basket of fresh fruit with beverages and the other had a bottle of wine with jerky and dried fruit as the welcome amenity.

The online room descriptions mention "high-speed Internet access" and make no mention of a fee, but they plan to charge you. I had work I needed to wrap-up and they agreed to give me one 24-hour time period for complimentary access, and then we used their business center when it came time to print boarding passes. Given the reasonable rates we were paying for our rooms, I did not press the issue, but I continue to be perplexed by high-caliber hotels who pride themselves on service and amenities, but then charge extra for Internet access.

Dining
The one place where the Four Seasons faltered was during our meals. Thankfully, this was not a surprise since I had read CMV's trip report, but it was disappointing that nearly a year later they continue to have the same issues. The service was painfully slow and inconsistent. When the slopes are beckoning out the window, we are willing to take time for a hot breakfast or lunch, but do not expect such meals to take over an hour and a half.

For breakfast, the Huevos Rancheros entree was disappointing since it lacked flavor (which is typically why one orders such a spicy dish) and tasted like mediocre hotel fare. Omelets were fine. Highlights included their fresh juice offering (which rotated daily), yogurt, and the banana bread (which tasted homemade, exactly as CMV described). On our last morning, the official ski season debut, a full spread breakfast buffet was offered. This was a definite step up in quality and offerings, and it no longer took so long to eat breakfast since we were not ordering from a menu and subject to a slow kitchen. Also, we had a delightful and efficient waitress, Bridget, who we didn't see until that last morning.

Lunch was nothing memorable and was even slower than breakfast, so after our first lunch at the Westbank Grill, we switched to eating lunch at Il Villagio Osteria most days.

We were trying to decide where to eat for dinner one evening and I went by the concierge desk to glance at the two on-site restaurant menus. The woman I spoke with (whose name I forgot to note) was the only negative employee we encountered all week. She said the menus had changed with the launch of ski season, so she did not have any copies at the desk. Seemingly too put out to do anything about it, she told me to go by both places to look at the menus. This was not an inconvenience normally worth mentioning, but she was curt and I thought it was odd at a Four Seasons to send a guest on the hunt for copies of the hotel's restaurant menus.

My in-laws praised their meal at the lobby bar the night we were delayed, and we had an okay meal at Peak later in the week. Peak had been transformed from what was shown online to more of a casual Western theme. The night we went was was their first night open for the season, so everyone - hostess, servers, waitress - seemed a bit tentative, but this was coupled with an air of enthusiasm and they were quite hospitable.

The in-room dining information mentioned picnics for guests who were returning to the hotel (since it included baskets and utensils), and we were interested in a disposable option we could take with us on our day of departure. We called room service to see if it was possible to get a picnic lunch packed for our flights so we didn't have to rely on airport food. Mr. Umbrella must have caught someone who was new or who was not used to going off script for these types of requests, so after an awkward exchange we didn't press the point and just grabbed something else during our travels.

Off-site we found ourselves at Il Villagio Osteria more times than I can count for lunch and dinners. I must give another hat tip to CMV, who was spot-on in his review of this restaurant. Located in Teton Village, it was a quick walk from the Four Seasons and fresh fare seemed to be plentiful here. My favorite was their seasonal soup, created with homemade stock.

Ski Concierge/Base Camp
Our rooms were conveniently located on the same floor as the base camp, which was mere steps from the lifts. The service is just as CMV described, so I will not repeat every detail here.

On arrival to base camp, we logged into a computer and they fitted us with skis. This was my first trip down a mountain since a tendon injury a few years ago, which rarely flares up. Unfortunately after just one run down the mountain, just below my ankle was throbbing in pain. Something about the ski boot angle seemed to aggravate the exact spot of the former injury. Inside I was slightly panicked that my ski days might be over before they ever got going, but I calmly went back into the base camp to see about switching boots. Since it was the beginning of the season, there was some confusion among employees about what was included in the "Ski Free" package so they were debating back and forth my request. I interjected that I didn't mind paying more for the next step up in boots, I just wanted to try something else. They immediately fit me in another pair, which thankfully solved the problem! (Later in the week someone mentioned that all levels of ski equipment were covered, which might be helpful to know for future travel.)

I have read several reviews online this winter about the ski concierge service not being on par with previous years. I do not have anything to compare it to, but we had an incredible experience - I've never had this caliber of personal ski service. It may have been because the mountain was at low occupancy, but the staff were eager to meet any needs and often went above and beyond. For example, before we came to Jackson Hole, I ordered a pair of gloves to pick up at one of the ski shops in Teton Village. After we were fitted with our skis, I asked Kyle if he could tell me where the shop was located so I could head in that direction. Instead of giving me directions, he insisted on walking me there himself and I learned a great deal about Jackson Hole from him during the quick errand. Everyone was prompt and courteous getting our gear set up. And at the end of the day, it was a treat to have someone help you with your equipment when needed. If you come into the hotel for lunch, your boots are set up on warmers so your feet are warm and toasty when you go back out for the afternoon.

Other Amenities (Gym, Hot Tub, Aprčs-ski)
The gym was extremely well stocked considering it included yoga mats, medicine balls, free weights, and large exercise balls in addition to traditional equipment. Unlike CMV's visit, an attendant did not circulate with cool towels, but again I think this is likely due to the timing of our visit.

There were other things that are mentioned on the website as activities (i.e. yoga classes), but on arrival we found out they did not start until Saturday. With the rates we were paying this was fine, but they would do well to make the information clear in their marketing materials. Mr. Umbrella and his Dad enjoyed the hot tub service. By the last few days of our trip, they had really stepped up the afternoon service and had a lot more to offer guests. The s’mores were a highlight.

One thing I forgot to mention in the room description, but also applies to some common areas, is that the fireplaces are gas with one exception. When it comes to winter and sitting next to a fire, I prefer the crackle and warmth of an authentic wood-burning fire. Thankfully there is one wood-burning fireplace near the entrance that goes through to both sides. On the backside (the larger lobby side with windows overlooking the ski base), there are two club chairs that can be turned around to read next to a fire without the busy atmosphere you might find in the main entrance on the other side.

Check-out was quick and efficient. There were a few problems with our bill, but they were quickly corrected when pointed out.

Overall
In regards to the Four Seasons, our first experience with their brand was quite disappointing (SFO), but Jackson Hole exceeded all our expectations. It was a positive representation of the brand, and reflects the reputation I read about on this board.

In reading over what I have written, I realized I forgot to mention two other employees who were most helpful during our stay: Michael at the concierge desk and Nicole who was supposedly "training" at the front desk (but she modeled hospitality seen in seasoned professionals). My mother-in-law had an issue with her eye during our stay; they quickly booked an appointment for her with an eye professional in town and provided assistance in arranging transportation.

In regards to Jackson Hole as a ski destination, it tops our list. Having spent our previous ski vacations in Colorado, I normally spend a day or two with altitude adjustment symptoms in some locations (Copper Mountain in particular), which was not the case here at all. The rate we received will be tough to replicate on our next trip since we caught Jackson Hole with record snowfalls early in the season. On our day of arrival, the ski mountain report read, "As of today, Jackson Hole is reporting 172 inches of total season snowfall (base depth of 62 inches)." We were told by Four Seasons staff that during this same week in 2009, you could still see green on the mountains.

I am indebted to the flyertalk board for teaching me to better monitor my flights/airline status and for the information on Jackson Hole since we normally stay in Colorado. Both insights led to our discovery of a new favorite ski destination, and we made wonderful memories with Mr. Umbrella's parents. My thanks to all.

(A few photos to follow.)

Last edited by umbrella007; Apr 18, 2011 at 7:18 am
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Old Apr 17, 2011, 8:25 pm
  #12  
 
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Photos: Four Seasons Jackson Hole, December 2010

Side of main lobby overlooking the ski base:


Game Room:




Beautiful Christmas decorations were present throughout the hotel:


There was plenty of snow for skiing even in December:




Exercise Gym:

(I had to blot out a few strangers who were on equipment above; figured they might not appreciate their photo online.)



Hot Tubs:


Balcony/View from Executive Suite (there is better view of some mountains in the distance to left, just outside the frame):

Last edited by umbrella007; Apr 17, 2011 at 8:34 pm
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Old Apr 17, 2011, 9:24 pm
  #13  
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Thanks for the report, Umbrella007. My wife and I stayed at the 4S Jackson Hole again this past February. I have been remiss in not posting a few comments about our stay, but your post has inspired me to do so.
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Old Apr 19, 2011, 2:07 am
  #14  
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I have a booking at this hotel for the week leading up to Christmas (2011).

I have not done proper diligence as to the typical snow conditions. On the typical snow conditions at this time. Sounds like 2010 would have worked well...is that an anomolie, or more the norm?

I don't want to turn up and have the mountain not open (nor even anything beyond a remote chance of that).

Where on the risk spectrum do I fall?
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Old Apr 19, 2011, 6:10 pm
  #15  
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NYBanker -- You should be fine as Jackson Hole tends to get a fair amount of early snow. Wikipedia has the montly snowfall totals for the town of Jackson, which will be higher in Teton Village and even higher at the summit.
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