Help with Luxury Hotels of Peru, Please
Jun 14, 2016, 7:20 am
#16
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 131
If time is important, you could get a VD train back as far as Ollantaytambo and arrange a driver to take you to Cusco - it is about a 1 - 1.5 hour drive but saves ages versus the train (which runs very slowly between Ollanta and Cusco). The train drops you at Poroy station which is a good 45 minute drive from central Cusco as well.
Jun 14, 2016, 8:47 am
#17
Suspended
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern California, USA
Programs: Marriott Ambassador and LTT, UA Plat/LT Gold, AA Gold
Posts: 8,764
My tripadvisor review: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser...iver-Peru.html
Jun 14, 2016, 9:12 am
#18
formerly declinespecificinformatiom
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,140
When we took the train to the station we had a ride arranged with the hotel for $80. After looking around for the car for a few minutes, we hopped in one of the many taxis for less than half that price. You should budget 2 minutes and $30 for the ride, or about .1x the time you might spend researching this question!
bhrubin: since you did both Cusco and the Amazon, where would you rather spend 3 days, not counting MAP Cafe? I'm curious.
Inkaterra should be able to organize everything, including fabulous guides and you can request meeting with shamans, local houses, hiking a small portion of the Inca Trail, tickets, etc... even if you opt for The Sanctuary, which may well be the best option. But one night there would be enough for me. My neighbor stayed there and commented positively on the food as well.
bhrubin: since you did both Cusco and the Amazon, where would you rather spend 3 days, not counting MAP Cafe? I'm curious.
Inkaterra should be able to organize everything, including fabulous guides and you can request meeting with shamans, local houses, hiking a small portion of the Inca Trail, tickets, etc... even if you opt for The Sanctuary, which may well be the best option. But one night there would be enough for me. My neighbor stayed there and commented positively on the food as well.
Last edited by DSI; Jun 14, 2016 at 9:18 am
Jun 14, 2016, 9:24 am
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
When we took the train to the station we had a ride arranged with the hotel for $80. After looking around for the car for a few minutes, we hopped in one of the many taxis for less than half that price. You should budget 2 minutes and $30 for the ride, or about .1x the time you might spend researching this question!
bhrubin: since you did both Cusco and the Amazon, where would you rather spend 3 days, not counting MAP Cafe? I'm curious.
Inkaterra should be able to organize everything, including fabulous guides and you can request meeting with shamans, local houses, hiking a small portion of the Inca Trail, tickets, etc... even if you opt for The Sanctuary, which may well be the best option. But one night there would be enough for me. My neighbor stayed there and commented positively on the food as well.
bhrubin: since you did both Cusco and the Amazon, where would you rather spend 3 days, not counting MAP Cafe? I'm curious.
Inkaterra should be able to organize everything, including fabulous guides and you can request meeting with shamans, local houses, hiking a small portion of the Inca Trail, tickets, etc... even if you opt for The Sanctuary, which may well be the best option. But one night there would be enough for me. My neighbor stayed there and commented positively on the food as well.
Jun 14, 2016, 10:18 am
#20
Suspended
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern California, USA
Programs: Marriott Ambassador and LTT, UA Plat/LT Gold, AA Gold
Posts: 8,764
Amazon photos
Of course, keep in mind that I'd already spent 4 nights in the Sacred Valley at Hotel Rio Sagrado, so Cusco was less enthralling a stop for us--just a very beautiful, charming, and historic town at 11,000 feet. (With stupendous food, mind you!) Not everyone will look at the comparison/contrast in the same way, of course. Most people stay in Cusco as a base from which to explore the Sacred Valley, while we did it more directly.
The biggest challenge for combining the Amazon with Machu Picchu/Sacred Valley/Cusco was packing a carry on for 3 weeks! Fortunately, the SL and M/V Aria had free laundry. So I packed very lightly and managed just fine. (It also helps that the top restaurants in Lima are pretty casual. Jeans/khakis were fine.)
Highlight photos from our Amazon M/V Aria cruise:
The M/V Aria itself...
The port of Iquitos was lively and pretty...
I got to see a live anaconda on our last day...and they are STRONG.
The 3 toed sloths are so adorable and soft and absolutely weird...
The cayman were fierce...and trying to spot them was an adventure in itself...
This cayman ALMOST managed to bite me when I got too close for a kiss...
The lizards are huge; this cayman lizard was 4 feet long and just a few feet from our skiff!
The spiders are HUGE...and they jump. Scared the bejeesus out of all of us...
And it wouldn't be the Amazon without piranha. I swam with them...before seeing them up close, of course!
Plus the amazing frogs...most of which were terrifyingly poisonous to the touch...so we kept our distance.
Incredibly beautiful black water ponds along Amazon tributaries...where we fished for piranha.
Last edited by bhrubin; Jun 14, 2016 at 8:24 pm
Jun 15, 2016, 7:21 am
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
If time is important, you could get a VD train back as far as Ollantaytambo and arrange a driver to take you to Cusco - it is about a 1 - 1.5 hour drive but saves ages versus the train (which runs very slowly between Ollanta and Cusco). The train drops you at Poroy station which is a good 45 minute drive from central Cusco as well.
Jun 16, 2016, 12:08 pm
#22
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Francisco
Programs: All-Around Kettle
Posts: 3,289
As someone who stays at luxury hotels, I'll put in my 2c that it's really not worth going to Cuzco and surrounds if you're not going to rough it and do the full Inca Trail hike. Machu Picchu is cool and all, but at the end of the day it's a lot of trouble just to get there. The Trail, on the other hand, is a life experience. JMHO.
Jun 16, 2016, 3:40 pm
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
As someone who stays at luxury hotels, I'll put in my 2c that it's really not worth going to Cuzco and surrounds if you're not going to rough it and do the full Inca Trail hike. Machu Picchu is cool and all, but at the end of the day it's a lot of trouble just to get there. The Trail, on the other hand, is a life experience. JMHO.
Having heard from friends who have done it, though, I don't doubt that the trek is magical!
Jun 16, 2016, 3:44 pm
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
And thanks to all for your input/feedback. Ultimately, here's what we decided on:
- 3 nights Belmond Rio Sagrado in a Garden Junior Suite
- 2 nights Inkaterra Machu Picchu in an Inkaterra Suite (had a scare when we learned that only Superior rooms were available, so I'm grateful that pricesquire was able to work with the hotel to get the suite opened up for us
)
- 2 nights Palacio del Inka (waitlisted for the lower-level room types at the Inkaterra La Casona, but didn't want to pay the rates for the suites given the alternatives...at 11,500 SPG points per night for a Junior Suite, PdI seemed like a very solid deal)
- 1 night Hotel B in Lima
Will update after our trip (though not for many months, as we're going in March). Thanks again!
- 3 nights Belmond Rio Sagrado in a Garden Junior Suite
- 2 nights Inkaterra Machu Picchu in an Inkaterra Suite (had a scare when we learned that only Superior rooms were available, so I'm grateful that pricesquire was able to work with the hotel to get the suite opened up for us
)- 2 nights Palacio del Inka (waitlisted for the lower-level room types at the Inkaterra La Casona, but didn't want to pay the rates for the suites given the alternatives...at 11,500 SPG points per night for a Junior Suite, PdI seemed like a very solid deal)
- 1 night Hotel B in Lima
Will update after our trip (though not for many months, as we're going in March). Thanks again!
Last edited by LM225; Jun 16, 2016 at 4:00 pm
Jun 16, 2016, 4:25 pm
#25
Suspended
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern California, USA
Programs: Marriott Ambassador and LTT, UA Plat/LT Gold, AA Gold
Posts: 8,764
And thanks to all for your input/feedback. Ultimately, here's what we decided on:
- 3 nights Belmond Rio Sagrado in a Garden Junior Suite
- 2 nights Inkaterra Machu Picchu in an Inkaterra Suite (had a scare when we learned that only Superior rooms were available, so I'm grateful that pricesquire was able to work with the hotel to get the suite opened up for us)
- 2 nights Palacio del Inka (waitlisted for the lower-level room types at the Inkaterra La Casona, but didn't want to pay the rates for the suites given the alternatives...at 11,500 SPG points per night for a Junior Suite, PdI seemed like a very solid deal)
- 1 night Hotel B in Lima
Will update after our trip (though not for many months, as we're going in March). Thanks again!
- 3 nights Belmond Rio Sagrado in a Garden Junior Suite
- 2 nights Inkaterra Machu Picchu in an Inkaterra Suite (had a scare when we learned that only Superior rooms were available, so I'm grateful that pricesquire was able to work with the hotel to get the suite opened up for us
)- 2 nights Palacio del Inka (waitlisted for the lower-level room types at the Inkaterra La Casona, but didn't want to pay the rates for the suites given the alternatives...at 11,500 SPG points per night for a Junior Suite, PdI seemed like a very solid deal)
- 1 night Hotel B in Lima
Will update after our trip (though not for many months, as we're going in March). Thanks again!
Sounds like a fabulous trip...during which you can blow more money on all those fabulous restaurants!
Jun 16, 2016, 8:03 pm
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
Thanks! I too, was surprised. The base rooms at PdI go for 10,000 points per night, so when the rep told me it would be 11,500 for the junior suite (two levels up), it seemed like a no brainer.
Jun 16, 2016, 8:36 pm
#27
Suspended
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern California, USA
Programs: Marriott Ambassador and LTT, UA Plat/LT Gold, AA Gold
Posts: 8,764
Well done. Youll be just 4 blocks or so south of the square with the Museum (& MAP Cafe) as well as La Casona and the Palacio Nazarenas. I think you'll be VERY close to Cicciolina restaurant, too!
Aug 22, 2016, 1:14 am
#28
Was sydakllon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: SYD
Programs: Virtuoso, Rosewood Elite, FSPP, Bellini, Dorchester, MO Fan Club, Oetker Pearl, etc.
Posts: 709
Hi all
Here are some thoughts from my trip to Peru earlier this month.
Sorry - I didn't take any photos of the hotels.
Belmond Miraflores Park / Lima
We stayed here one night at both the start and end of our time in Peru. I’d recommend lining up flights so you could connect onwards and just do two nights together in Lima. My father and I arrived on separate flights and the hotel arranged transfers for us through a company which used Mercedes (we had new C and E Class during our stays). Traffic wasn’t an issue for us to/from the airport both stays (midday arrivals, morning departures) and via the coastal road the trip to Miraflores was around 30-40 minutes.
We booked City View Junior Suite and were upgraded both stays to Ocean View Junior Suite. Room size was fine for my father and I sharing although they just split the beds so they were right next to each other which I don’t like for a twin share situation. Nice bathroom here – great shower.
Service was good – always greeted by name and concierge helpful. We had lunch at the hotel restaurant which was nice enough. Breakfast through room service was just okay. Buffet was nothing out of the ordinary for this standard. I had a good facial – one each during both stays. Gym looked good but I didn’t use. Was too cold to swim in the pool but would be a nice spot to relax in nicer weather.
Location is good – we visited Barranco for a couple of hours (wandered around, Mario Testino museum, contemporary art museum), went to Larcomar (handy for collecting PeruRail tickets), and used the hotel car for a few hours around Lima historical centre. I loved the Barranco area. Lima historical centre was nice enough but I wouldn’t really say it is a must see – just typical colonial buildings, churches, some catacombs, and bad traffic.
We ate at Astrid&Gaston which I thought whilst a beautiful restaurant, the food was overrated (massive serving sizes) and Central which I thought was incredible – possibly the best octopus of my life and my father who isn’t as much of a foodie as I like to think I am said it was the best meal he’s ever had.
Sol Y Luna / Sacred Valley
We stayed at Sol Y Luna for two nights. Can’t remember exactly why we changed from Belmond for Sacred Valley but recall they had a big wedding party there both nights we were going to stay so I’m glad we changed.
Sol Y Luna is set away from the river (whereas Belmond and Starwood are on the river). It’s a shame that Sol Y Luna isn’t on the river. The grounds are really nice here and everything seems well maintained. The pool area looks like it will be great when they finish renovations.
We booked a Superior Casita and were upgraded to a Deluxe. We ended up in the Premium Casita though as I complained about not being informed the pool was out of action due to renovations to the area around it (I can’t fathom why they did this in peak season). I actually think the Deluxe are nicer – they seem lighter and more airy due to the open plan design. The bathroom was very nice in the Premium and the two fireplaces and jacuzzi were nice additions.
Service was amateur at best. We had to make multiple requests for menus, our jacuzzi to be filled, fires to be lit, confusion over activities being arranged. My horse riding activity started 80 minutes late (delayed so my guide could do the daily horse show) which meant we rushed our morning sightseeing for no reason. Food was just okay for me in both restaurants which surprised me given it is an R&C affiliated property. The worst situation was the first night when a neighbouring property had a party and was blasting music at the most ridiculous volume from around 11pm through to 5:30am. I managed to sleep through some of it but when I complained twice, I was informed there was nothing they could do.
Sol Y Luna has potential but I wouldn’t recommend if service is a deal breaker for you. The rooms and grounds are really nice though if that matters more to you.
Re sightseeing, we were collected from Cusco airport and driven to Sacred Valley via Chinchero, Moray and Salineras. This whole process took around 3-4 hours. Chinchero was a nice intro as our first Incan sight. Moray was interesting. Salineras is so impressive – this was one of the highlights of the Sacred Valley / Cusco area for me. We also saw Pisac (wasn’t able to get to the top here as the hotel didn’t advise us this was the most interesting part and the hike was too long for the time we had, plus my father has mobility issues) and Ollantaytambo which was interesting and requires much more time than the 45 minutes we had to have a look around.
We flew Avianca business class to/from Cusco. It’s fine for a short flight but there are no domestic lounges which wasn’t ideal. Make sure you sit on the right side of the plane (we were 1A, 1C) going to Cusco and the left side going back to Lima – views of the Andes are great.
Belmond Sanctuary Lodge / Machu Picchu
We booked one night here with an early arrival (more on this in a moment…) and afternoon departure so we could have two days at MP. We booked a Standard Room and ended up in a Deluxe Room (only difference is view – we had a nice-ish mountain view). Unless you’re booking a room with patio access, I wouldn’t worry about the view – you are not in your room much here. The rooms are so small, if you like some personal space, probably would advise not to share here unless a couple, we managed okay though.
Service was really great here and they were so helpful with my father given his mobility issues. I had a massage outside overlooking the valley and it was very good. They have a dayroom with facilities you can use to refresh if you’re staying well past check-out time. Food was excellent here.
If travelling during peak season, be warned about the lines for the buses. I booked an early train from Ollantaytambo with the idea we’d arrive around 9:30am and be in MP by 11:00am. How wrong I was! I couldn’t book our tickets for the bus up to Belmond/MP prior because the site kept rejecting all my cards and the hotel couldn’t help despite repeated contacts (I was confused here and was the only time I got frustrated with their service). The queues for the tickets and then the bus were mayhem. To be honest, just pay the US$400 for a private bus. I sent my father to wait in the bus line whilst I got the bus tickets – it took me 30 minutes to get the tickets and then we were in the line for the bus for another 2.5-3 hours. There was nothing Belmond could do for us. You can’t take luggage with you – Belmond took care of my bag (a 21” Globe Trotter – you leave your larger cases in Cusco/Sacred Valley) for us and it was in our room when we arrived hours after we got off the train.
Lines were also insane outside Belmond/MP to come back down. On our departure day though the hotel staff were kind enough to arrange a specific time for us to get on the bus with the operators outside the hotel so my father and I didn’t have to endure another long wait. Not sure if they do this for everyone, but they made it out like it was a big favour for us as my father can’t walk or stand for long periods. Regardless, this service specifically I was so grateful for.
I cannot understand why anyone would not pay the money to stay at this property – just book it. I have no idea why anyone would stay in the revolting town at the bottom of the hill and go through the ordeal of going up and down the mountain every day on the bus. For example, on our second day, we wanted to have sunrise in the park. We woke up at 5:15am, had a quick breakfast, left the hotel at 5:45am and were second in line to enter the site. The person in front of us lined up at the walking gate down the hill at 3am to enter first at 5am and then walk up. Who could be bothered? The first buses leave at 5:30am – people were lining up at around 2:30am/3:00am for sunrise. Much better to roll from bed to breakfast to gate all within 30 minutes/45 minutes.
Machu Picchu at sunrise was amazing. Actually, Machu Picchu in general (even with peak season hordes of lemmings flowing through the site) is just simply breathtaking – one of the most amazing locations I have ever visited in my life. I hiked up Machu Picchu Mountain (the higher one, not the scary one) in about 55 minutes – apparently usually takes 90-120 minutes. It was a hard hike for me at altitude and I’m fit and healthy – you’re basically walking up a staircase non-stop. Views are incredible though and I think would be more amazing than the smaller mountain.
If considering Peru, really don’t go past Sanctuary Lodge – the park is magic once the visitors start to leave/before they arrive and the lodge is really the only way to easily / conveniently do this. Belmond is running a good operation here – it’s just a shame they can’t do, or are restricted from doing, more for their guests in terms of getting up and down the mountain from the station.
Belmond Hotel Monasterio / Cusco
We booked a Superior Room here and were upgraded to a Deluxe Room for three nights. The room was a good size for my father and I and we had some space to relax (we both got a bit of a stomach bug in Cusco). This hotel is really beautiful – the restoration of the monastery has been done really well and the art in the hotel is stunning (all from the Cusco School). I did the hotel’s art tour one evening which was informative.
The restaurant for dinner is really overpriced but the food was nice (not outstanding) – we only ate here the first night as we arrived late from MP. Breakfast was good – it was warm enough one morning to sit in the courtyard under the cedar tree which is a gorgeous setting. The hotel is just very atmospheric – the golden chapel is amazing.
I thought service was pretty good here. Again, as with all Belmond properties we stayed at, they really tried hard to make the service personable and we were always greeted by name by almost all staff. Staff again were very helpful with my father’s mobility and showed me a few rooms when we checked in while he waited in the bar so I could decide which was best for him. I really appreciated their initiative here. I had a massage which was good and my father had a haircut which he was also happy with. I’d definitely recommend this property – I didn’t see any others in Cusco, on paper I’d probably prefer Palacio Nazarenas – but given my experience, I would recommend.
Location is good – close to some interesting museums (Inka museum and the religious art museum), and the main square. The cathedral is stunning – I was really impressed. We didn’t do too much in Cusco (I couldn’t really work out what there was left to do in the area) so we just wandered around and browsed the city when we felt like it. We ventured out of the city to Saqsaywaman which was interesting enough (and the concierge said after what we’d seen in Sacred Valley / MP that nothing else was going to be that interesting for us).
In Cusco we ate at Chicha which we both thought was nice and good value. We did have a booking a MAP Café but I had to cancel it as we were both feeling unwell and wanted some basic, comfort food…
So that’s it. Totally loved Peru and I’d definitely recommend it as a destination – I would love to go back and do the multi-day hike from Cusco to MP. I’ll just add re altitude that I bought Diamox in Lima on arrival. I took it to be safe and didn’t have any issues but certainly could feel the effects of altitude if any activity required some effort. My father didn’t take anything and was fine, but he’s on medication for other health issues so we were worried about how Diamox would interact as it affects your blood.
Any questions, let me know, happy to answer.
Here are some thoughts from my trip to Peru earlier this month.
Sorry - I didn't take any photos of the hotels.
Belmond Miraflores Park / Lima
We stayed here one night at both the start and end of our time in Peru. I’d recommend lining up flights so you could connect onwards and just do two nights together in Lima. My father and I arrived on separate flights and the hotel arranged transfers for us through a company which used Mercedes (we had new C and E Class during our stays). Traffic wasn’t an issue for us to/from the airport both stays (midday arrivals, morning departures) and via the coastal road the trip to Miraflores was around 30-40 minutes.
We booked City View Junior Suite and were upgraded both stays to Ocean View Junior Suite. Room size was fine for my father and I sharing although they just split the beds so they were right next to each other which I don’t like for a twin share situation. Nice bathroom here – great shower.
Service was good – always greeted by name and concierge helpful. We had lunch at the hotel restaurant which was nice enough. Breakfast through room service was just okay. Buffet was nothing out of the ordinary for this standard. I had a good facial – one each during both stays. Gym looked good but I didn’t use. Was too cold to swim in the pool but would be a nice spot to relax in nicer weather.
Location is good – we visited Barranco for a couple of hours (wandered around, Mario Testino museum, contemporary art museum), went to Larcomar (handy for collecting PeruRail tickets), and used the hotel car for a few hours around Lima historical centre. I loved the Barranco area. Lima historical centre was nice enough but I wouldn’t really say it is a must see – just typical colonial buildings, churches, some catacombs, and bad traffic.
We ate at Astrid&Gaston which I thought whilst a beautiful restaurant, the food was overrated (massive serving sizes) and Central which I thought was incredible – possibly the best octopus of my life and my father who isn’t as much of a foodie as I like to think I am said it was the best meal he’s ever had.
Sol Y Luna / Sacred Valley
We stayed at Sol Y Luna for two nights. Can’t remember exactly why we changed from Belmond for Sacred Valley but recall they had a big wedding party there both nights we were going to stay so I’m glad we changed.
Sol Y Luna is set away from the river (whereas Belmond and Starwood are on the river). It’s a shame that Sol Y Luna isn’t on the river. The grounds are really nice here and everything seems well maintained. The pool area looks like it will be great when they finish renovations.
We booked a Superior Casita and were upgraded to a Deluxe. We ended up in the Premium Casita though as I complained about not being informed the pool was out of action due to renovations to the area around it (I can’t fathom why they did this in peak season). I actually think the Deluxe are nicer – they seem lighter and more airy due to the open plan design. The bathroom was very nice in the Premium and the two fireplaces and jacuzzi were nice additions.
Service was amateur at best. We had to make multiple requests for menus, our jacuzzi to be filled, fires to be lit, confusion over activities being arranged. My horse riding activity started 80 minutes late (delayed so my guide could do the daily horse show) which meant we rushed our morning sightseeing for no reason. Food was just okay for me in both restaurants which surprised me given it is an R&C affiliated property. The worst situation was the first night when a neighbouring property had a party and was blasting music at the most ridiculous volume from around 11pm through to 5:30am. I managed to sleep through some of it but when I complained twice, I was informed there was nothing they could do.
Sol Y Luna has potential but I wouldn’t recommend if service is a deal breaker for you. The rooms and grounds are really nice though if that matters more to you.
Re sightseeing, we were collected from Cusco airport and driven to Sacred Valley via Chinchero, Moray and Salineras. This whole process took around 3-4 hours. Chinchero was a nice intro as our first Incan sight. Moray was interesting. Salineras is so impressive – this was one of the highlights of the Sacred Valley / Cusco area for me. We also saw Pisac (wasn’t able to get to the top here as the hotel didn’t advise us this was the most interesting part and the hike was too long for the time we had, plus my father has mobility issues) and Ollantaytambo which was interesting and requires much more time than the 45 minutes we had to have a look around.
We flew Avianca business class to/from Cusco. It’s fine for a short flight but there are no domestic lounges which wasn’t ideal. Make sure you sit on the right side of the plane (we were 1A, 1C) going to Cusco and the left side going back to Lima – views of the Andes are great.
Belmond Sanctuary Lodge / Machu Picchu
We booked one night here with an early arrival (more on this in a moment…) and afternoon departure so we could have two days at MP. We booked a Standard Room and ended up in a Deluxe Room (only difference is view – we had a nice-ish mountain view). Unless you’re booking a room with patio access, I wouldn’t worry about the view – you are not in your room much here. The rooms are so small, if you like some personal space, probably would advise not to share here unless a couple, we managed okay though.
Service was really great here and they were so helpful with my father given his mobility issues. I had a massage outside overlooking the valley and it was very good. They have a dayroom with facilities you can use to refresh if you’re staying well past check-out time. Food was excellent here.
If travelling during peak season, be warned about the lines for the buses. I booked an early train from Ollantaytambo with the idea we’d arrive around 9:30am and be in MP by 11:00am. How wrong I was! I couldn’t book our tickets for the bus up to Belmond/MP prior because the site kept rejecting all my cards and the hotel couldn’t help despite repeated contacts (I was confused here and was the only time I got frustrated with their service). The queues for the tickets and then the bus were mayhem. To be honest, just pay the US$400 for a private bus. I sent my father to wait in the bus line whilst I got the bus tickets – it took me 30 minutes to get the tickets and then we were in the line for the bus for another 2.5-3 hours. There was nothing Belmond could do for us. You can’t take luggage with you – Belmond took care of my bag (a 21” Globe Trotter – you leave your larger cases in Cusco/Sacred Valley) for us and it was in our room when we arrived hours after we got off the train.
Lines were also insane outside Belmond/MP to come back down. On our departure day though the hotel staff were kind enough to arrange a specific time for us to get on the bus with the operators outside the hotel so my father and I didn’t have to endure another long wait. Not sure if they do this for everyone, but they made it out like it was a big favour for us as my father can’t walk or stand for long periods. Regardless, this service specifically I was so grateful for.
I cannot understand why anyone would not pay the money to stay at this property – just book it. I have no idea why anyone would stay in the revolting town at the bottom of the hill and go through the ordeal of going up and down the mountain every day on the bus. For example, on our second day, we wanted to have sunrise in the park. We woke up at 5:15am, had a quick breakfast, left the hotel at 5:45am and were second in line to enter the site. The person in front of us lined up at the walking gate down the hill at 3am to enter first at 5am and then walk up. Who could be bothered? The first buses leave at 5:30am – people were lining up at around 2:30am/3:00am for sunrise. Much better to roll from bed to breakfast to gate all within 30 minutes/45 minutes.
Machu Picchu at sunrise was amazing. Actually, Machu Picchu in general (even with peak season hordes of lemmings flowing through the site) is just simply breathtaking – one of the most amazing locations I have ever visited in my life. I hiked up Machu Picchu Mountain (the higher one, not the scary one) in about 55 minutes – apparently usually takes 90-120 minutes. It was a hard hike for me at altitude and I’m fit and healthy – you’re basically walking up a staircase non-stop. Views are incredible though and I think would be more amazing than the smaller mountain.
If considering Peru, really don’t go past Sanctuary Lodge – the park is magic once the visitors start to leave/before they arrive and the lodge is really the only way to easily / conveniently do this. Belmond is running a good operation here – it’s just a shame they can’t do, or are restricted from doing, more for their guests in terms of getting up and down the mountain from the station.
Belmond Hotel Monasterio / Cusco
We booked a Superior Room here and were upgraded to a Deluxe Room for three nights. The room was a good size for my father and I and we had some space to relax (we both got a bit of a stomach bug in Cusco). This hotel is really beautiful – the restoration of the monastery has been done really well and the art in the hotel is stunning (all from the Cusco School). I did the hotel’s art tour one evening which was informative.
The restaurant for dinner is really overpriced but the food was nice (not outstanding) – we only ate here the first night as we arrived late from MP. Breakfast was good – it was warm enough one morning to sit in the courtyard under the cedar tree which is a gorgeous setting. The hotel is just very atmospheric – the golden chapel is amazing.
I thought service was pretty good here. Again, as with all Belmond properties we stayed at, they really tried hard to make the service personable and we were always greeted by name by almost all staff. Staff again were very helpful with my father’s mobility and showed me a few rooms when we checked in while he waited in the bar so I could decide which was best for him. I really appreciated their initiative here. I had a massage which was good and my father had a haircut which he was also happy with. I’d definitely recommend this property – I didn’t see any others in Cusco, on paper I’d probably prefer Palacio Nazarenas – but given my experience, I would recommend.
Location is good – close to some interesting museums (Inka museum and the religious art museum), and the main square. The cathedral is stunning – I was really impressed. We didn’t do too much in Cusco (I couldn’t really work out what there was left to do in the area) so we just wandered around and browsed the city when we felt like it. We ventured out of the city to Saqsaywaman which was interesting enough (and the concierge said after what we’d seen in Sacred Valley / MP that nothing else was going to be that interesting for us).
In Cusco we ate at Chicha which we both thought was nice and good value. We did have a booking a MAP Café but I had to cancel it as we were both feeling unwell and wanted some basic, comfort food…
So that’s it. Totally loved Peru and I’d definitely recommend it as a destination – I would love to go back and do the multi-day hike from Cusco to MP. I’ll just add re altitude that I bought Diamox in Lima on arrival. I took it to be safe and didn’t have any issues but certainly could feel the effects of altitude if any activity required some effort. My father didn’t take anything and was fine, but he’s on medication for other health issues so we were worried about how Diamox would interact as it affects your blood.
Any questions, let me know, happy to answer.
Aug 22, 2016, 10:10 am
#29
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: IAD/DCA
Posts: 31,797
thanks so much! wow, so private bus is the only good option? odd there is not more discussion. presumably even if there are things like helicopter transfer, costs a lot more. it's interesting cusco is the higher altitude, as i have been higher than machu pichu. cusco is worth it for cathedral and Saqsaywaman?
Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Aug 22, 2016 at 12:48 pm
Aug 22, 2016, 4:36 pm
#30
Was sydakllon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: SYD
Programs: Virtuoso, Rosewood Elite, FSPP, Bellini, Dorchester, MO Fan Club, Oetker Pearl, etc.
Posts: 709
thanks so much! wow, so private bus is the only good option? odd there is not more discussion. presumably even if there are things like helicopter transfer, costs a lot more. it's interesting cusco is the higher altitude, as i have been higher than machu pichu. cusco is worth it for cathedral and Saqsaywaman?
Yep - Cusco is the higher altitude at 3400m. Urubamba (Sacred Valley) is 2870m. Machu is 2430m.
Cusco being worth it is subjective of course and I'd base that on if you have time. I didn't properly research what we should see and we should have done three nights Sacred Valley and two nights Cusco. Cusco is literally just a colonial town with a nice square, a nice church and some interesting museums. You only really need a full day here with a guide and driver and you've 'seen' it all. I studied art history so generally enjoy things like museums and churches more than some other people might.
With hindsight, my revised itinerary would have been:
- 2 nights Lima - first afternoon in Barranco, next day for Larco Museum (which I'm annoyed I missed) and Historical Centre, dining (I liked Belmond in Lima but would stay in Hotel B due to the neighbourhood - it just seemed a bit intimate for my father and I)
- 3 nights Sacred Valley - morning flight from Cusco so can sightsee on way from Cusco to hotel (definitely recommend knocking out sights on the way from airport to hotel and get your accommodation to arrange a packed lunch or something), full day for Pisac & Ollantaytambo, full day to relax/other activities like horse riding or whatever
- 1 night Machu Picchu - arrive morning, depending on season seriously consider the private bus, leave late afternoon (get two full days, do not consider anywhere but Belmond, two nights would be great, but cost/benefit would come in to play - I was satisfied with the time I had in the site but I was on the go for a whole afternoon and literally was in the park as soon as it opened at 6am until about 2pm on the full day and was absolutely exhausted especially after climbing the mountain)
- 2 nights Cusco - only need one full day here - leave Peru from Cusco (via Lima) or continue to Amazon/Lake Titicaca