Patagonia, finally my experiences
May 21, 2015, 10:41 am
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: my heart is on the shores of the north Italian lakes
Programs: LX Senator Lifetime, Relais&Chateaux Club5C, ex ! "Amanjunkie", ex LHW LC, hate chain hotels
Posts: 2,515
Patagonia, finally my experiences
I was very busy lately and had also some health issues. As there is little coverage about Patagonia just let me give to all of you some ideas. This is not a trip report, but just some hints and experiences.
First of all January/February appears to be the perfect season.
Hating big chain hotels we staid at The Aubrey in SCL. This is a small place, owned by an Australian where especially gay people will feel very welcome. It is boutique luxury in a historic house, walking distance from the center and the fantastic fish market. It is in a noisy nightlife district and if you need absolute calm I would recommend the newer rooms in the courtyard for absolute quiet. The garden design and the pool are fantastic as is their Tapas restaurant with great wines. While in SCL you must go to have dinner at Boragň which is worth 2 Michelin stars.
Casa Lapostolle is located only 2.5 hours on a four lane motorway from SCL, a four room Relais @ Châteaux property and very modern "design winery". The "casitas" are very private, but have no air conditioning, the nights were hot. Dinner is fixed menu with top wines (including Clos Applata) included on the terrace overlooking the valley with the volcanoes in the far. The team members are gracious. Not cheap, but worth the money.
A long drive south, at Pucon, lake Villarica, the legendary Antumalal. A monument to Bauhaus architecture. This is luxury as it was more than 50 years ago (updated) with a great restaurant overlooking the lake and a new spa, half indoor/outdoor pool and a beach for swimming in what can be described as the possibly most pristine lake. Water temperature was surprisingly slightly over 20°C.
Casa Molino in Puerto Varas is a luxury guesthouse with carefully prepared meals. Ask for the "Ensenada suite". The place is a good alternative to the group oriented Cumbres (I think same owner). Take the short drive to Puerto Montt to eat a crab (centolla) at the fish market.
You may cross the Andes with "Cruce Andino", 4 bus and 3 boat transfers with fantastic views.
The Llao Llao in Bariloche fully deserves its reputation. The rooms at the Moreno wing directly on the lake shore are worth the price for their balconies and the bathrooms. Best is the "coffe shop" style restaurant in the big hall with fantastic meats and fantastic wines (not the smaller fine dining place). The place is big, but service and attention very personal. Pay cash in ARS after changing USD on the black market. You may save 40 % or more. Lake Moreno is slightly cooler than lake Villarica, but still worth a swim.
Eolo is a short flight with excellent Aerolineas Argentinas. The place is located in the middle of nothing and run by an eclectic Relais & Châteaux Maître de Maison. Rooms are on the simple sober side encompassing the huge landscape Ask for a corner room, but not the one near the TV lounge. The restaurant is set menu and again great wines. Trust them for your excursions (Lago Argentino - salon timonera and Perito Moreno), they handle that very well and go for a walk on the hill behind the estancia to surprise the huge herds of Guanacos.
The drive to Awasi, a new super top Relais & Châteaux is long, but the place among the best you can imagine. It has being discussed on the board here already. Bettiana is an "above Aman" style Maîtresse de Maison and all is very private and relaxed. The distances in the park are disappointingly huge and you will drive a lot. Do not miss the 8 hours trek up to the towers and ask ahead for the hot tub to be heated outside your room (they may be unable to do so in case of wind due to the fire danger). Dinner is a relaxed affair with all top beverages also included and the chef will cook whatever you please, but you should not miss out on his suggestions.
The drive until Puerto Natales is provided by Awasi and included. You should insist leaving the national park via the south gate. The road is very scenic. Be aware to choose a reliable transport from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, it can be quite an adventure otherwise. I trust Awasi meanwhile provides solid options with a corresponding fee.
The overall quality of the four nights cruise with Stella Australis to Ushuaia is forgettable. The guiding and safety are excellent, the cabins comfortable and well heated, the food OK, but the service attitude non existant. These people should go to a hotel school altogether. But Cape Horn is worth the sacrifice. Bring your own bathrobe, slippers and Champagne, they have neither on board
Los Cauquenes Ushuaia is a must as is renting a car to drive and explore the fantastic forests in the national park. Get a front facing Beagle Channel room and reserve a window table at their good restaurant.
Having spent a lot of money we staid a Cabrera Garden in BUE. Definitely very luxury and personal with fantastic breakfast and good location in Palermo. It is a private house with three rooms. The place to have dinner at present in BUE is i Latina, not Tegui.
Do not hesitate asking me details about this most southern part of South America. It is possibly the best place in the world I have been so far. Hopefully I have inspired some fellow FTalkers
.
First of all January/February appears to be the perfect season.
Hating big chain hotels we staid at The Aubrey in SCL. This is a small place, owned by an Australian where especially gay people will feel very welcome. It is boutique luxury in a historic house, walking distance from the center and the fantastic fish market. It is in a noisy nightlife district and if you need absolute calm I would recommend the newer rooms in the courtyard for absolute quiet. The garden design and the pool are fantastic as is their Tapas restaurant with great wines. While in SCL you must go to have dinner at Boragň which is worth 2 Michelin stars.
Casa Lapostolle is located only 2.5 hours on a four lane motorway from SCL, a four room Relais @ Châteaux property and very modern "design winery". The "casitas" are very private, but have no air conditioning, the nights were hot. Dinner is fixed menu with top wines (including Clos Applata) included on the terrace overlooking the valley with the volcanoes in the far. The team members are gracious. Not cheap, but worth the money.
A long drive south, at Pucon, lake Villarica, the legendary Antumalal. A monument to Bauhaus architecture. This is luxury as it was more than 50 years ago (updated) with a great restaurant overlooking the lake and a new spa, half indoor/outdoor pool and a beach for swimming in what can be described as the possibly most pristine lake. Water temperature was surprisingly slightly over 20°C.
Casa Molino in Puerto Varas is a luxury guesthouse with carefully prepared meals. Ask for the "Ensenada suite". The place is a good alternative to the group oriented Cumbres (I think same owner). Take the short drive to Puerto Montt to eat a crab (centolla) at the fish market.
You may cross the Andes with "Cruce Andino", 4 bus and 3 boat transfers with fantastic views.
The Llao Llao in Bariloche fully deserves its reputation. The rooms at the Moreno wing directly on the lake shore are worth the price for their balconies and the bathrooms. Best is the "coffe shop" style restaurant in the big hall with fantastic meats and fantastic wines (not the smaller fine dining place). The place is big, but service and attention very personal. Pay cash in ARS after changing USD on the black market. You may save 40 % or more. Lake Moreno is slightly cooler than lake Villarica, but still worth a swim.
Eolo is a short flight with excellent Aerolineas Argentinas. The place is located in the middle of nothing and run by an eclectic Relais & Châteaux Maître de Maison. Rooms are on the simple sober side encompassing the huge landscape Ask for a corner room, but not the one near the TV lounge. The restaurant is set menu and again great wines. Trust them for your excursions (Lago Argentino - salon timonera and Perito Moreno), they handle that very well and go for a walk on the hill behind the estancia to surprise the huge herds of Guanacos.
The drive to Awasi, a new super top Relais & Châteaux is long, but the place among the best you can imagine. It has being discussed on the board here already. Bettiana is an "above Aman" style Maîtresse de Maison and all is very private and relaxed. The distances in the park are disappointingly huge and you will drive a lot. Do not miss the 8 hours trek up to the towers and ask ahead for the hot tub to be heated outside your room (they may be unable to do so in case of wind due to the fire danger). Dinner is a relaxed affair with all top beverages also included and the chef will cook whatever you please, but you should not miss out on his suggestions.
The drive until Puerto Natales is provided by Awasi and included. You should insist leaving the national park via the south gate. The road is very scenic. Be aware to choose a reliable transport from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, it can be quite an adventure otherwise. I trust Awasi meanwhile provides solid options with a corresponding fee.
The overall quality of the four nights cruise with Stella Australis to Ushuaia is forgettable. The guiding and safety are excellent, the cabins comfortable and well heated, the food OK, but the service attitude non existant. These people should go to a hotel school altogether. But Cape Horn is worth the sacrifice. Bring your own bathrobe, slippers and Champagne, they have neither on board
Los Cauquenes Ushuaia is a must as is renting a car to drive and explore the fantastic forests in the national park. Get a front facing Beagle Channel room and reserve a window table at their good restaurant.
Having spent a lot of money we staid a Cabrera Garden in BUE. Definitely very luxury and personal with fantastic breakfast and good location in Palermo. It is a private house with three rooms. The place to have dinner at present in BUE is i Latina, not Tegui.
Do not hesitate asking me details about this most southern part of South America. It is possibly the best place in the world I have been so far. Hopefully I have inspired some fellow FTalkers
.
May 21, 2015, 11:11 am
#3
Moderator: Luxury Hotels and FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Palo Alto, California,USA
Posts: 17,854
I am toying with the idea of doing a themed trip to that area, roughly under the concept of "Darwin's Other Destination." The Beagle spent far more time in that area as that was its main mission, mapping those waterways, and Darwin wrote extensively about his travels in his log.
If you have any more information about accommodation and sights in the places Darwin wrote about, that would be most appreciated.
If you have any more information about accommodation and sights in the places Darwin wrote about, that would be most appreciated.
May 21, 2015, 11:42 am
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: my heart is on the shores of the north Italian lakes
Programs: LX Senator Lifetime, Relais&Chateaux Club5C, ex ! "Amanjunkie", ex LHW LC, hate chain hotels
Posts: 2,515
I am toying with the idea of doing a themed trip to that area, roughly under the concept of "Darwin's Other Destination." The Beagle spent far more time in that area as that was its main mission, mapping those waterways, and Darwin wrote extensively about his travels in his log.
If you have any more information about accommodation and sights in the places Darwin wrote about, that would be most appreciated.
If you have any more information about accommodation and sights in the places Darwin wrote about, that would be most appreciated.
Strangely there are few reports on FT about this area. I had to do myself more than 2 years of research to get that nice itinerary.
May 21, 2015, 11:54 am
#5
Join Date: Dec 2004
Programs: UA-1K, MM, Hilton-Diamond, Marriott-Titanium
Posts: 4,431
Great report
Chile is one of the few countries in SA I have not gotten to. It is on my to do list.
the Aubrey sounds lovely. They do also welcome straight married ladies that travel solo, correct? I wasn't sure if you were inferring that it is a hotel with only a gay clientele.
I will put your restaurant recommendation of Borago on my list also.
can you elaborate on your crossing of the Andes please. How long did all those transfers take you?
the Aubrey sounds lovely. They do also welcome straight married ladies that travel solo, correct? I wasn't sure if you were inferring that it is a hotel with only a gay clientele.
I will put your restaurant recommendation of Borago on my list also.
can you elaborate on your crossing of the Andes please. How long did all those transfers take you?
May 21, 2015, 1:10 pm
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: my heart is on the shores of the north Italian lakes
Programs: LX Senator Lifetime, Relais&Chateaux Club5C, ex ! "Amanjunkie", ex LHW LC, hate chain hotels
Posts: 2,515
Chile is one of the few countries in SA I have not gotten to. It is on my to do list.
the Aubrey sounds lovely. They do also welcome straight married ladies that travel solo, correct? I wasn't sure if you were inferring that it is a hotel with only a gay clientele.
I will put your restaurant recommendation of Borago on my list also.
can you elaborate on your crossing of the Andes please. How long did all those transfers take you?
the Aubrey sounds lovely. They do also welcome straight married ladies that travel solo, correct? I wasn't sure if you were inferring that it is a hotel with only a gay clientele.
I will put your restaurant recommendation of Borago on my list also.
can you elaborate on your crossing of the Andes please. How long did all those transfers take you?
The Andes crossing is with Cruce Andino and you will leave Puerto Varas at 8 AM and arrive at Bariloche 12 hours later. It is a long day, with a long lunch break (extra charge and pleasant - we got drunk) and many changes of means of transport. The buses are comfortable and the boats newish. The guiding and comments are excellent and all is a great experience. They will tag your bag to your destination hotel in Bariloche and handle it very efficiently. http://www.cruceandino.com/ But mind the volcanoes
.
May 21, 2015, 6:03 pm
#8
formerly declinespecificinformatiom
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,140
Thanks for the excellent information and Patagonia is definitely on our plans for 2016! We've always been thinking about Awasi.
One concern I have is definitely whether hotels are discriminatory in nature, i.e. whether children are welcome. Are any of these places lacking in openness?
One concern I have is definitely whether hotels are discriminatory in nature, i.e. whether children are welcome. Are any of these places lacking in openness?
May 22, 2015, 2:59 am
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: my heart is on the shores of the north Italian lakes
Programs: LX Senator Lifetime, Relais&Chateaux Club5C, ex ! "Amanjunkie", ex LHW LC, hate chain hotels
Posts: 2,515
3 weeks+ or just start in Bariloche for 2 weeks +
Driving from SCL to Puerto Varas stopping 2 nights at each place leaves plenty of time for sightseeing and relaxing. The motorway is perfect for self drive, but only Europcar offers (expensive) one way rentals where you can drop the car at Cumbres Hotel in Puerto Varas (where the Cruce Andino crossing starts)
Bariloche and El Calafate three nights appear fine, at Awasi Torres del Paine I would add one night to stay four or/and stop at Singular in Puerto Natales (a future Relais & Châteaux property ? ) looking poorly on the web, but located on the shores of the lagoon). This will also make your drive to Punta Arenas more bearable.
Stella Australis is fixed four nights and Ushuaia two nights are sufficient.
Hope this helps. Sorry I am not a (Virtuoso) travel agent
- this trip is easy self bookable, the research was more time consuming.
May 22, 2015, 3:17 am
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: my heart is on the shores of the north Italian lakes
Programs: LX Senator Lifetime, Relais&Chateaux Club5C, ex ! "Amanjunkie", ex LHW LC, hate chain hotels
Posts: 2,515
No worries
Thanks for the excellent information and Patagonia is definitely on our plans for 2016! We've always been thinking about Awasi.
One concern I have is definitely whether hotels are discriminatory in nature, i.e. whether children are welcome. Are any of these places lacking in openness?
One concern I have is definitely whether hotels are discriminatory in nature, i.e. whether children are welcome. Are any of these places lacking in openness?
No concern regarding children declinespecificinformation, but for their own enjoyment of such a trip 10 years old up appears appropriate. At Puerto Varas I would opt for Cumbres hotel with them for more facilities. Llao Llao is paradise for them for sure. Eolo is more formal especially for dinner and Awasi is all private outings so they will adjust. The big walks might be too hard for them. The cruise could be boring unless you tell them that they will go to Cape Horn.... Ushuaia apart that magical trees in the national park has also a fun (very) narrow gauge railway near the park entrance aptly named "tren del fin del mundo".
Generally South America is refreshingly open and everything goes. Best are the beaches of Rio where nobody cares if you are fat or slim, old or young, gay or straight and where only very few (Victorian tourists?) wear board shorts for swimming
.P.S.: I would strongly recommend to learn basic Spanish for such a trip, I did it for two years and was happy when having a serious break down with a car.
Last edited by behuman; May 22, 2015 at 4:36 am
May 22, 2015, 5:54 am
#12
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 246
Thanks for your report behuman!^
Patagonia (Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno glacier...)has been our dream grand trip (such a long long long way from HK...wish I can take this much leave from work). Properties like Awasi and Eolo are even making this more tempting *drool*
Patagonia (Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno glacier...)has been our dream grand trip (such a long long long way from HK...wish I can take this much leave from work). Properties like Awasi and Eolo are even making this more tempting *drool*
May 22, 2015, 4:02 pm
#13
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: YYC
Programs: AC SE 1MM, Marriott Ambassador
Posts: 3,396
Thanks for the excellent information and Patagonia is definitely on our plans for 2016! We've always been thinking about Awasi.
One concern I have is definitely whether hotels are discriminatory in nature, i.e. whether children are welcome. Are any of these places lacking in openness?
One concern I have is definitely whether hotels are discriminatory in nature, i.e. whether children are welcome. Are any of these places lacking in openness?
May 27, 2015, 12:48 pm
#14
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Here, there … you know how it goes.
Posts: 1,518
Lovely behuman, what an absolutely marvelous trip report. Utterly enthralling.
I've been off FT for a couple weeks while a sibling and I spent some time together traveling (non-luxury, but thoroughly delightful).
I'm so happy you and your partner had a lovely trip, and I am immediately adding this to my "list". I imagine my better half and I will simply copy your itinerary, knowing your tastes and that they will very much align with ours.
On a more personal note, I am sure I speak for all of us here in saying I hope your health issues have vanished, and that you are back in fine form.
I've been off FT for a couple weeks while a sibling and I spent some time together traveling (non-luxury, but thoroughly delightful).
I'm so happy you and your partner had a lovely trip, and I am immediately adding this to my "list". I imagine my better half and I will simply copy your itinerary, knowing your tastes and that they will very much align with ours.
On a more personal note, I am sure I speak for all of us here in saying I hope your health issues have vanished, and that you are back in fine form.
May 28, 2015, 11:05 pm
#15
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Denver
Programs: AMEX Cent., Relais & Chateaux, LHW, SLH
Posts: 427
Thank you for the info Behuman! I'm a huge Relais & Chateaux fan as well, and almost made it to Awasi last year but didn't end up going 
I'm very interested in Eolo and Awasi, can you please let me know how you got from Eolo to Awasi? The flights in Chile/Argentina is just crazy, I wish there's an easier way to travel the whole Patagonia area
I'm very interested in Eolo and Awasi, can you please let me know how you got from Eolo to Awasi? The flights in Chile/Argentina is just crazy, I wish there's an easier way to travel the whole Patagonia area