DavidO

I begin with my usual disclaimer that these are my personal, subjective opinions of the nine hotels I visited last week. Others will and should disagree with my opinions!


Executive Summary


NAPA COUNTY

Auberge du Soleil. Polished elegance and a killer view looking down over the Napa Valley. Its restaurant has one Michelin star.

Calistoga Ranch. Luxury in a rustic and outdoorsy setting, guest cottages are sided with cedar shakes and feature large outdoor living rooms with gas fireplaces.

Meadowood. A destination resort with a New England feel, green croquet lawn, tennis courts, and golf course. Its restaurant has three Michelin stars.

Bardessono. A simple, elegant, and natural contemporary hotel right in the heart of Yountville with shopping and restaurants right at your doorstep.

Carneros Inn. Did not get a chance to visit this trip due to full occupancy, but located in the Carneros vineyards. Cottages resemble (on the outside) the housing once provided for migrant vineyard workers, but very clean, elegant, and contemporary on the inside.


SONOMA COUNTY

The Farmhouse. Small, friendly, family-owned “farmhouse chic” resort in the Russian River Valley wine region with its home grown vintage of Pinot Noir. Its restaurant has one Michelin star.

Hotel les Mars. Small boutique luxury hotel in Healdsburg, a block north of the Square, its sixteen rooms individually decorated in a classic French style.

Hotel Healdsburg. Contemporary hotel at the southwest corner of the Square with “industrial modern” design. I found its rooms boxy and uninspiring.

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn. 226 room resort built in a Spanish Mission style with 40,000 square foot spa. Its restaurant has one Michelin star.

Kenwood Inn & Spa. “Faux Tuscan” property 12 miles north of Sonoma offering a four-star experience and more moderate rates.


Site Inspection Reports


Auberge du Soleil An adults-only resort, the vision for Auberge du Soleil began in 1981 when Claude Rouas created a Provençal restaurant in the California wine country. The first fine-dining restaurant in Napa Valley, it quickly became apparent that guests returning to San Francisco — over an hour’s drive away — should be able to spend the night after enjoying a fine meal and bottles(s) of vintage wine. The Inn opened several years later in 1985 with rooms that reflected the Provencal theme of the restaurant.

The current resort has just 50 accommodations — 29 Maison Rooms, 19 Maison Suites, and 2 Private Maisons (cottages). The resort is engaged in an on-going rolling renovation, with the renovated accommodations being designated as Deluxe rooms and suites.

Rooms are 520 square feet, the size of a comfortable Deluxe Room. Suites have separate bedrooms and a very large living room, with total living space of 1254 square feet. Both rooms and suites feature large open air patios.

Bathrooms are everything you would expect with dual vanities, step-in shower, soaking tub, and WC. In addition to the amenities guests typically expect to find in a hotel bathroom, Auberge du Soleil also includes a “First Aid - Intimacy Kit” for guests.

So, first about the styling and ambiance of the rooms. We spent two nights in a “regular” (i.e., not-yet renovated) Valley Suite. Decorated in a French Country “Provencal” style, our room was beautiful and comfortable. Cream colored walls, browns and oranges in the carpeting and furnishings, and abstract contemporary paintings hang on the walls. The bedroom had a King bed and a large flat screen facing the bed. The living room had a gas fireplace, a second flat screen, and an open counter to a kitchenette with a stocked refrigerator; beer, soft drinks, and snacks are complimentary. But the most important feature of the Suite is the wall of windows and French doors that open onto a patio with a fabulous view of the Napa valley. While the room is beautiful, the view is exquisite. This is one resort where you definitely want to pay for the view!

We were also shown some Deluxe rooms and suites. As pleased as we are with the traditional French Country interior of our “regular" suite, the contemporary “Cote d’Azur” styling of the renovated Deluxe rooms and suites is stunning. Jute wallpaper adds texture to the walls, and patterned carpeting lends an elegant finish to the floors. Abstract paintings have been replaced with framed photography. The kitchenette has been replaced with a second bathroom with step-in shower. The wall of shuttered windows and French doors has been replaced with an open steel framed window wall that brings even more of the outside in.

The resort offers a Michelin-starred restaurant, large pool, spa, yoga pagoda, fitness center, and a tennis court among other features.

Although it is not Virtuoso, breakfast is included with the room (your check at the restaurant will show the price of your meal zero’ed out), and Virtuoso guests will receive an upgrade at booking if possible and an additional welcome amenity if your Virtuoso TA works with the resort. During slow periods and mid-week, an upgrade from room to suite is occasionally possible.

Four Seasons fans will feel comfortable and quite at home at Auberge du Soleil.


Calistoga Ranch is an Auberge resort a few miles south of the town of Calistoga set in its own canyon leading up a hill. Just 10 years old, the resort is both luxury and rustic. Guest rooms and suites are detached buildings, each sided with cedar shakes.

We stayed in a Creekside Suite, consisting of a 600 sq. ft bedroom and bathroom building, a large outdoor deck with jacuzzi tub and “living room” area in front of a two-sided gas fireplace, and an additional 600 sq. ft. living room with Queen-sized sofabed (and the other side of the two-sided fireplace). The living room had a built-in desk with ethernet and WiFi, small kitchenette with free minibar, a powder room, and large flatscreen TV.

Bedrooms are decorated in creams and golds with dark brown accents. Bedrooms have a King bed, plantation shutters for window treatment, and a second TV facing the bed. The large bathroom offered a central soaking tub, two large vanities on the left and right walls of the bathroom, a WC, step-in shower, and outdoor shower. Slate tiling added to the rustic ambiance of the room.

Clean and attractive, I feel Calistoga is ready for a bit of soft goods renovation, perhaps introducing some spaces of color, that would make a very good room product even better.

My wife truly enjoyed the spa with its large outdoor jacuzzi with perfectly placed jets, a small heated outdoor pool, open-air sitting and relaxation area warmed with overhead heaters and gas fireplaces. The Virtuoso-included breakfast was excellent. My wife raved about the Hobbs bacon, and the resort’s fresh baked English muffins were light and airy!


Meadowood Napa Valley, set in its own small valley just east of the town of St. Helena, is a self-contained resort offering lots of activities for guests. There’s a 9-hole golf course (par 3’s and 4’s only), tennis courts, croquet lawn, bicycles to rent, two large pools (one just for adults), large exercise facility, and a spa (with a new all-suite spa scheduled to open in August or September), not to mention The Restaurant which boasts a three-star Michelin rating.

Lots of green lawns in the valley, surrounded by a hillside with Live Oak trees, there’s a New England quality to Meadowood. 45 years old, every room in the resort recently underwent a thorough renovation, and everything looks very attractive and up to date.

We were first shown a TreeLine Junior Suite. High ceilings with open rafters lend a farmhouse motif to its light and airy interiors. There is a King-bedded Master Bedroom and a separate living room with Queen sofabed. The bathroom has a large white marble counter with dual vanities, a soaking tub, and step-in shower. Each accommodation has a large outdoor deck with views of the woods or the valley.

Lead-in Hillside rooms are the same size as Junior Suite but have an open floor plan and lack a sofa bed.


Bardessono. A new resort just six years old, Bardessono is located in the Napa County town of Yountville, a cute little town whose shops, wine tasting rooms, and restaurants are a short stroll outside the hotel’s front door. This hotel’s styling is simple, elegant, and natural.

One of just three LEED Platinum hotels in the world, and the only luxury hotel among that select group, Bardessono wants to be the greenest hotel in the world. All materials used in construction of the hotel were sourced from within 100 miles of the property. Heating and cooling is provided by geothermal wells, and solar panels provide 40% of the hotel’s electricity. Charging stations are provided for two Teslas and two additional electric cars. You get the idea! The hotel spends just $8 per room per day for utilities compared to what they would normally cost, about $25 per room per day.

Clean, simple, contemporary and elegant guest rooms begin with lead-in Spa Suites — 550 square feet of interior space with an additional 250 square feet of private outdoor patio space. Natural hues predominate — green/grey flooring tiles accented with borders of small green glass squares, soothing green walls. There is restful carpeting in the bedroom and walnut hardwood flooring in your bathroom which doubles as a private spa. The bathroom is fully equipped with dual vanities, a jacuzzi tub, step-in shower, and WC … and your own hidden massage table. The bedroom has a King bed plus Queen-size sofa bed, a small desktop with accessible connections for your technology, and a corner gas fireplace.

Upgraded Steam Spa Suites are the same size, but the step-in shower also doubles as a steam shower … with a step-through to an outdoor shower.

Tufa Suites offer 750 square feet of interior space (and 300 square feet of exterior space). The living room and bedroom are separated by a two-sided gas fireplace.

The hotel offers complimentary use of bicycles, free valet parking, an open-air fitness deck, a 75’ rooftop lap pool and jacuzzi. Lucys, the hotel’s restaurant, is named after the matriarch of the Bardessono family, and we enjoyed a great lunch.

Though Bardessono is not Virtuoso, Virtuoso-like amenities will be provided if your Virtuoso TA makes the arrangements — your choice of either a daily $60 F&B credit … or a guaranteed upgrade at time of booking. This hotel is highly recommended for guests who (a) prefer contemporary interiors and (b) prefer an in-town setting over a secluded retreat.


The Farmhouse. A hidden gem, The Farmhouse is a luxurious boutique resort a few miles outside the small town of Forestville, CA. Set in the Russian River Valley area of Sonoma County and well located for visiting area wineries, The Farmhouse sits on six acres with 25 guestrooms. We stayed in a second floor Luxury Barn Room, an extremely spacious 700 square foot accommodation. Filled with natural sunshine, our room was light and attractively decorated with white wainscoting and an informal but elegant “farmhouse chic” aesthetic. A King bed is centered on the long axis of the room, directly facing an indoor/outdoor gas fireplace (whose other side faces a large outdoor patio outside the French doors). There are sitting areas at both ends of the room, as well as a desk (with free WiFi), small walk-in closet, coffee machine, wine refrigerator, and minibar. The marble bathroom is large with heated floors, dual vanities, step-in steam shower, WC, and jacuzzi tub with surprisingly effective jets.

The Farmhouse is perhaps best known for its Michelin-starred restaurant, set in the restored 1873 weatherboard farmhouse. It is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays, so we missed the opportunity to dine here, but a glance at the menu shows the possibility of ordering a three or four course meal with optional wine pairings. We did enjoy a beautiful and delicious three-course gourmet breakfast in the restaurant — complimentary for all guests — that displays the creativity of the kitchen.

The area features other great dining options — we had a truly wonderful meal at Canneti Italian Roadhouse.

The resort features a pool, a full service spa, and complimentary gourmet S’Mores in the evening that you can make over one of two fire pits by the pool … with the supplied homemade marshmallows, Valrhona chocolate bars, and special honey-flavored graham crackers.

Catherine and Joe Bartolomei, sister and brother and fifth generation Forestville farmers, manage The Farmhouse. They also grow their own grapes and produce their own vintage wine, Lost & Found Pinot Noir.


Hotel les Mars. A member of Relais & Chateaux, Hotel les Mars is located a block north of the square in Healdsburg. A boutique hotel just ten years old, there are sixteen rooms, each individually decorated in a classic French style. All rooms feature gas fireplaces, four poster King beds (except for two Queen-Queen rooms). Bathrooms have just a single vanity and a step-in shower. While lead-in Estate King rooms lack a soaking tub, mid-tier Mansion King and Grand King rooms are pleasantly spacious and provide both soaking tubs and separate step-in showers. Especially desirable are rooms on the third (top) floor which feature spectacular 20-foot vaulted ceilings. Mansion King rooms offer the best value, as the extra space in the Grand rooms consists of a larger entry area, not especially useable space.

This is a true luxury hotel with high standards of service and a casual elegant ambiance. Beds feature 1200 thread count sheeting, and guests enjoy Virtuoso-like amenities: complimentary breakfast, daily afternoon wine and cheese tastings, complimentary valet parking, free WiFi, complimentary snacks in the room, complimentary bottle of champagne on arrival, and twice daily maid service. Upgrades are possible mid-week, but there is very little likelihood of upgrades on Friday and Saturday nights.Though there is a $30 nightly resort fee, there is a no tipping policy at the hotel.

This is the hotel of choice in Healdsburg.


Hotel Healdsburg is a 10 year old hotel just off the southwest corner of the square in Healdsburg. Best for a young, hip clientele, I would describe this boutique hotel (55 rooms) as “industrial modern,” sleek and minimalist. Large squares of polished concrete form the lobby floor, and the bare concrete of the pillars is exposed. No carpeting, walls are plainly painted, and the furnishings are contemporary. The lobby does have a large gas fireplace, bar, and grand piano, and live jazz is performed on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Lead-in Standard King rooms are 300-325 square feet, Premium King rooms range from 450-500 square feet, and Junior Suites are 600 square feet. Rooms display the same minimalist aesthetic that is introduced in the lobby area. The Premium King that we were shown seemed very “boxy” with plain light green painted walls and no fabric window treatments to soften the appearance. While Standard Kings lack a soaking tub, all other room categories have both a soaking tub, single vanity, and a “European style” shower glass (a glass enclosed shower area without a door). Beds are made up with luxurious Frette linens and cashmere blankets, and the complimentary minibar provides guests with snacks and soft drinks.

The hotel offers a spa, heated outdoor pool, outdoor jacuzzi, and small fitness room. The hotel is developing a new Pool Bar around its large 40’ x 25’ heated pool, and the olive grove by the pool provides welcome shade for guests during hot Sonoma summer days.

Guest smenities include receive complimentary daily full breakfast, free valet parking, free WiFi, and no resort fee.


Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. The original Sonoma Mission Inn was constructed in a Spanish Mission style nearly one hundred years ago at the location of the Boyes Hot Springs. Larger than the other Wine Country resorts reviewed in this report, Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn has 226 guest rooms on its 11 acre campus, of which 60 are suites. The resort has a lot to offer its guests:
Guest rooms are compact. Fairmont rooms are extremely cozy at 275 square feet; the small bathroom has a single vanity, shower in the tub, and toilet. Deluxe rooms are the size of Superior rooms at 389 square feet, some with fireplaces. The room we saw had a single vanity in the small bathroom, a step-in shower, and a toilet; if you specify your shower/tub preferences, an appropriate room can be blocked for you. Junior Suite category (500 square feet - the size of a Deluxe room) have a bit more character; the Junior Suite we saw had a four poster bed, pull-out sofabed, a wood burning fireplace, and a bay window that brought beautiful natural light into the room; its bathroom had both a soaking tub and step-in shower. Mission Suites (550 square feet) are closer to a true Junior Suite, more masculine in character with dark wood trim, four poster beds, an oval jacuzzi tub between the bedroom and bathroom, dual vanities, a step-in shower, and a WC.


Kenwood Inn and Spa. A more moderately priced 4* option in Sonoma County, Kenwood Inn & Spa is a small boutique resort with 29 rooms. Built in a faux-Tuscan style, the property does remind me of smaller country estates in Italy. The lobby is furnished with dark antique furniture, and a red velvet sash completes the Tuscan impression.

We were shown just one room, #24, and this one room is definitely worth consideration for a stay. Located directly above the lobby, it is extremely spacious with a wall of windows looking directly onto the vineyard across the street. It was a bit dark, though, with dark tile floors and traditional furnishings. The bathroom had a single vanity, step-in shower, and a large soaking tub. 21 of the hotel’s rooms feature darker Tuscan interiors, while 8 rooms have been redesigned with a brighter Cape Cod style.

The resort has a spa, a large heated pool, and a small restaurant with an Italian menu. There are no TV’s in the guest rooms by design. Amenities include full breakfast and free WiFi is included in the room rates..

Although most luxury guests would pass on this resort, room # 24 is worth consideration at current rates — $350 in low season, $550-$600 in high season.

lhgreengrd1

I can heartily endorse the Farmhouse Inn. Genuine luxury and a magnificent restaurant without any of the pretense and snobbery that some other upscale wine country establishments (Auberge du Soleil, Meadowood) suffer from.

Also, I'm surprised not to see the Vintner's Inn on the above list (although I much preferred the Farmhouse).

uclabruin82

I am probably biased because I got married there last summer, but Calistoga is my favorite. Although if you stay there you will be a bit away from the action I think it is worth it. I also think anyone staying there needs to pay up for one of the lodges that has its own jacuzzi.having a lodge that does not share walls, like in a normal hotel building, is why we have always stayed there over Auberge.

David, is the Carneros Inn still a Virtuoso property?

Ericka

Gonna have to look up the Farmhouse. Sounds right up our alley!

DavidO

Yes, Carneros Inn is very much Virtuoso ... but they didn't have any rooms available at all on the day I would be passing through, so I wasn't able to see it again.

I will add Carneros to the Executive Summary, though...

lb8001

Another endorsement of the Farmhouse - was there a couple years ago and it was outstanding. Restaurant was great
, as was the small spa. The barn rooms, which David mentions, are wonderful and very spacious - and loved their indoor and outdoor space.

KI-NRT

We recently stayed at the Fairmont Sonoma. It's not even close to being luxury.

The grounds are nice, and the main areas are decent, but the rooms are dated. And, as DavidO mentioned, they're extremely small. We opted for a Junior Suite, and it was tight.

NO property can be considered "luxury" if their Junior Suites (or rooms that are marketed as such) are as tiny as those at the Fairmont.

The bed was awful (it was completely warped) as well.

We've never had a great experience in any of the Fairmonts we've stayed in. We're going to try avoiding this chain in the future if at all possible.

KatW

Thank you, DavidO, for this overview. We live on the Peninsula south of San Francisco so wine country is an easy drive for us (traffic notwithstanding). We've stayed at Calistoga Ranch and its sister Auberge in Rutherford. I don't mind spending beaucoup bucks but I think both are overpriced (together with Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur) and coasting on their ostensible laurels.

Agree CR's soft product is due for refurbishment. Living room furniture much too clunky for the space. The setting is splendid, as are the plantings, trees, avian entertainment and service although the concierge let us down. The spa is a veritable treat and not to be missed. A salient grievance at Calistoga Ranch is the hot tub set into the deck; no railings or steps or inside levels to help one climb in and out. Why, yes, I am a crotchety middle-aged woman.

I greatly regret there is no luxury available in the Point Reyes area (other than Mother Nature). There is of course Manka's but those lodgings are quixotic at least (although I love The Boathouse).

We've eaten wonderfully at the Farmhouse, have not overnighted there, very close to the highway.

off2rome

Would Auberge du Soleil be nice to visit at the of July? Wondering if it would be too hot (for example to sit on terrace and enjoy lunch or even dinner) Thanks in advance

uclabruin82

When we were there last year for the 4th, it was pretty hot during the day, with highs in the high-80s/low-90s. But if you were in the shade it was fine, and there is no humidity, so it does not feel bad. It is also really nice in the evening that time of year.

Larkin

Some comments. David O. Thank you again for sharing terrific reviews! They are very helpful as always.

We live in San Francisco and spend frequent weekends in the local wine country. Sometimes at friends' homes and sometimes in hotels. We used to own a weekend home in Sonoma which was sold some time ago as we enjoy trying different places here and around the world much too much!

Here are my comments. First if all IMHO the best times to visit are spring and fall. We also like winter being fairly close by, but of course the past two years have seen little rain in the Bay Area, so having grown up in SF despite living in other cities, I might forget!!

My favorite resorts overall in Napa Valley are 1. Auberge - I love the adult aspect. This is particularly nice at the pool. Although I love 2. Meadowood ( more in late fall and winter when you might use the fireplace in many rooms), their main pool which says only 16 and over is overrun with locals who have joined with their kids. It can be go hard to get a lounger especially on summer weekends and 3 day weekends or breaks if the weather is good. Loads of teenagers arrive making it hard to relax, albeit some times up interesting! On the other hand the pool at Auberge is hotel guests only. And no younger guests . It is certainly more relaxing should you use the pool. Auberge also has terrific rooms, especially the Valley View Suite rooms. I love the trees at Meadowood, but you have to be careful and really study your room types!

Both restaurants have very good restaurants - particularly Meadowood is you want a sublime 3 star michelin experience, but Auberge is 1 star and if you can snag an outdoor view table you will love the atmosphere. I love both places but for different reasons and different seasons.

Another great alternative in the Napa Valley is poetry inn. Small number of beautiful rooms with valley views. A couple are enormous with sep showers and tubs, and a big balcony with a big view -prices are a bit less. They don't have a full service restaurant, but they will serve you a gourmet breakfast in room or anywhere you like. They will also create a picnic lunch or room service dinner if given enough notice. I like this place a lot. I like the small no of rooms and great personalized
Feeling you don't get at meadowood or Auberge. There us a small pool as well.great location for Yountville restaurants - think Redd, Bouchon, French Laundrey, etc. many to chaise from very close by.

In regards to Bardesmo, the location for great restaurant as you are close to all the above restaurants and In walking distance. Having said that although it is popular I am not crazy about even the high end rooms and the restaurant. I think the restaurant is a work in progress, so may improve.

Calistoga Ranch - eh, it's very nice. Rooms are nice but you need to get one with privacy. It is beautiful and with the right room can be very nice , but it is not ny gs orbiter..
Healdsburg/ Russian River area: these are our favorite wines. Somewhat cooler climate especially at night.mm

Loved Les a Mars location just off the main square in healdsburg, especially when the two star Cyrus restaurant was next door. No more. Rooms are nive, but not a great outlook, I would rate it the best in or off the square, but nit the best overall.

More tomorrow, I am tired!

off2rome

Thanks- thinking of going end of July for my wife's birthday. Afraid it will be too hot. If we do go any specific room type suggested for Auberge du Soliel? Don't know what direction the property faces but not sure if garden, hillside or valley view would be best as I assume a west facing room may be hotter?

Thanks

Maxfinder

I actually have had some decent experiences at some Fairmonts.
The Fairmont Sonoma was not one of them.

The hotel service was good. I ordered a dental kit from room service and they had to me in 2 minutes. Same for service in the hotel bar pretty quick.

I did a 2 hour massage in the spa, by booking two 1 hour massages back to back. Good enough, and the spa itself is decent.

Grounds of the property are OK.

No complaints about Sante the restaurant. We did tasting menu with wine pairing. Sommelier gave us great advice on wine tour booking.

The bed itself was comfortable enough, however I had drank a bunch of wine so ymmv.

The room and entire wing we were in reminded me of a cheap motel, and I hated it.

Not luxury, not even close!

lhgreengrd1

Try the Kea Lani in Maui if you want to have a great experience in a Fairmont.

instyleprincess

Thanks for the review David!

Did you ask any of these hotels to book local popular restaurants? I'm wondering in terms of concierge services, which of these hotels in the area would be your pick?

Thanks!