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Old Feb 16, 2013, 6:37 am
  #1  
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Trip Report: Amantaka (Laos)

My wife and I stayed at Amantaka (in Luang Prabang, Laos) for 3 nights over New Year's as part of a SE Asia tour that also included visits to Myanmar (Yangon, Bagan & Mandalay, including on the Road to Mandalay cruise), Hanoi (Sofitel Metropole Hanoi) and Bangkok (Peninsula.) The property has been reported on and discussed at great length in this forum, so I'll focus on offering my perspective on the service during this peak travel period (no surprise - Amantaka was booked full during our stay.)

We arrived at LPQ direct from HAN on QV 316, arriving at around 6PM. As we had requested seats at the back of the ATR 72, we were first to deplane - ATR 72s have doors at the rear of the aircraft. As a result, we were through immigration and customs in a flash. We had to wait, however, for about 10 minutes before the vehicle arrived (an Aman-branded van). No apology was given by the representative for the delay, which was a inexplicable.

Also a surprise was the lack of bottled water or cold towels in the vehicle. Mind you, it was a 10 minute drive from the airport to Amantaka, so it wasn't something we particularly missed. We were greeted by several folks, including Gary (the GM). We went over the various activities on offer, as well as several that were specificially prepared with New Year's in mind. This included a traditional Baci ceremony, a Lao dance in front of the pool area and the lighting of fire lanterns on New Year's Eve. We asked Gary what he thought of the Elephant camp (along with a ride on the elephants), and he advised against it, claiming that it was overcrowded at this time of year. We went ahead and booked it anyways, and we're glad we did... it was the highlight of our trip!


Amantaka front entrance

We stayed at suite #9, which was a Khan Pool Suite. Suite 9 is at the far end of the property and to the very far right corner, offering loads of privacy. It's about a 5 minute walk from the Suite to the main area, which is a plus or minus depending on how hearty you are.


Khan Pool Suite bedroom


Khan Pool Suite sitting room


Khan Pool Suite - hallway connecting bedroom (and sinks) to bathroom/showers

The Khan Pool Suite was was wonderful and inviting. It's tastefully decorated while being low-key at the same time. If there's one complaint to be had, it's in the layout of the suite - it's a very large suite, mind you, but it feels far less cavernous than it ought to be. While the sitting room (adjacent to the bedroom) is quite spacious, the bedroom feels a bit cramped. The twin sinks, closets and showers are all somewhat segregated, (sort of their own enclaves in a sense), often connected by mini hallways. The courtyard and pool are in the back of the suite with the courtyard having a table, two chairs and two loungers for relaxing. Unfortunately, it was very cold during our time in Luang Prabang, and we never got around to using it as a result.


Khan Pool Suite - outdoor courtyard & pool

We had dinner at Amantaka all three evenings we were there - during the holiday season, a compulsory supplementary charge is tacked on to the rate and includes breakfast and choice of lunch and dinner daily. If it wasn't for the supplementary charge, we definitely would not have dined there as often. We stuck mainly to Laotian dishes, although we did try two Western entrees for one of our meals. while there was nothing wrong with the food, we found it rather bland and unimaginative. By comparison, the food in town was great. We had lunch at Tamarind, and everything we had was fresh, full of flavor and very creative. We also checked out a "hole in the wall" noodle shop, which specialized in one noodle soup (which is all it offered!). Especially noteworthy was the dried crispy rice that gets added to the soup - think sizzling rice soup for those of you familiar with Chinese cuisine. It blew away the breakfast noodles on offer at Amantaka, which had far less umami and the noodles were way too soft. Dessert at Amantaka was decent, however. We had sweet sticky rice with mangos on two occassions; it's a great finale to end any meal.






Excellent sweet sticky rice with mangos

We availed ourselves to three excursions: Luang Prabang city tour, Mekong River Cruise, a visit to an elephant camp (along with a ride in one of the elephants). The rest of our time was spent exploring the city on foot and by bicycle (Amantaka offers them free for rent). While others on the board have gushed over the afternoon Mekong River cruise, our experience was - sadly - not the mind blowing experience we were expecting. For starters, it was COLD... probably in the 40s. Even after bundling my wife with blankets (thankfully there were 3 of them on the boat), she was shivering the entire time. Against almost everyone else's advice, we decided to tour the Whisky Village and Pak Ou Caves. Okay, so neither are mind-blowing experiences, but for a 10 minute diversion for each of them, it wasn't bad. At the very least, it's a good way to get off the boat and strech one's legs for a bit.


Mekong river cruise in the afternoon


Sunset on the Mekong River

The elephant camp, by contrast, was amazing. We've never touched or ridden in an elephant before - they're really majestic animals when you get up close and personal to them. It's clear that the elephants are well treated at the camp - they all seemed healthy, and the was evident by the look on the faces of the staff that they adored the gentle giants. The ride lasted for about an hour - the first 30 minutes or so, we rode on the back while the trainer sat up front (on the neck of the elephant). After taking a quick break, the trainer got off the elephant, asked for my camera, and directed the elephant to start walking. The trainer took about 50 or so photos of us while walking ahead, behind and besides the elephant as it meandered through the forest.

Afterwards, we were able to pet the elephant and feed her some mangos and bananas. Oh, and it was nothing like how Gary warned it would be. It was a trainquil and enchanting experience - it was definitely not a tourist factory in the slightest bit.

As our stay was over New Year's, we partook in three activities that Amantaka was offering on premises. One was a traditional "Baci" ceremony, which lasted for about 30 minutes and was some sort of traditional meditation. There was also a Lao dance performed by local children of minority tribes - they were all adorable! Finally, during New Year's countdown, everyone congregated poolside and took turns lighting "fire lanterns." They were a cross between lanterns and hot air balloons - when you set it on fire (from below) and enough hot air pressure builds up, they take to the skies. The same thing was happening all over Luang Prabang, so much so that literally hundreds of orange specks can be seen in the dark night sky.


Lao dance


Traditional Baci ceremony


Fire lanters in the sky

How was the service during this peak period, you ask? Good but far from exemplary. We were rarely greeted by name, and service at the restaurant was not attentive at all and was very, very slow (despite it being less than half full on most nights) - every time we wanted to ask for something, it seemed like forever before the waiter would appear... definitely not the "anticipatory" service that one expects from an Aman resort. At times, we sensed that the staff were under the strain of having to deal with a full house. One example: one our walk back to our suite, we realized we had forgotten to pick up our room key at the front desk (we always leave our keys there when going out), and asked one of the staff nearby if they could go get it for us. After 10 minutes of waiting in the middle of the property grounds, I gave up and trekked back to the lobby, only to find said staff member sitting at the desk. When he made eye contact with me, he didn't flinch - he clearly had completely forgotten about the key request.


Poolside at night

While we were not expecting perfection considering the period of our stay, I find it hard to excuse such mishaps, especially when you consider that Aman charges more during peak season (including the compulsory supplementary charge.) Given the wide quality gulf between Amantaka and other properties (including La Residence Phou Vao, which, while though highly rated on TripAdvisor, is a big step down, property wise), perhaps this is a sign of complacency? I definitely hope not.

In summary, Amantaka is a wonderful property that is slightly marred by mediocre food (which is the case at most Amans we've been to), slow and inattentive service, and some mishaps along the way (making us wait at the airport with no apologies as the most egregious one.) It definitely lacks the polish found at Amanpuri or the Bali Amans.

We're due to stay at Jiwo and Pulo in July, and hope that there's a bit more polish to the service than what we experienced at Aman's Luang Prabang property.

Last edited by KI-NRT; Feb 16, 2013 at 4:48 pm Reason: Location info added to title
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 7:30 am
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Thanks for the report, great pics and details!

Delay of the van without apology is definitely unacceptable

Is the main pool heated?

We are going to Amantaka next week. Hopefully after the departure of CNY crowds (the resort was fully booked during CNY when I last checked), the service will go back to usual Aman standard
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 9:58 am
  #3  
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Not sure what happened here.
When we were at Taka about a year ago, we waited on arrival in the airport private Taka lounge while the Aman team did our immigration, collected/ loaded our luggage , etc.
Also first off the plane.

We enjoyed the crisp weather on our Mekong cruise & had a spectacular sunset too. Stayed onboard . Instead of the elephant trip we visited a hill tribe.
Perhaps , others skipped the elephants due to the cold?
Our activities were constrained by some injury & travel with octogenarians.
We'd decent meals - maybe over indulging.
Our pool was heated but can't recall if the main pool was - likely but will be warm if sunny.

Looking forward to Jiwo too ( our friends are there now ) & perhaps return to Pulo sooner than later?
Superb Amans ^
For 2013 , must try harder not to be at an Aman monthly , perhaps target quarterly @:-)

Last edited by FlyerEC; Feb 16, 2013 at 10:02 am Reason: Amantaka - Luang Prabang , Laos
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 10:05 am
  #4  
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great photos and details!

taka became like sara, including excursions and alcohol
change happened nov 1 2012 http://web.archive.org/web/201210130...aka/rates.aspx

Originally Posted by KI-NRT
cold towels in the vehicle

very cold

COLD... probably in the 40s. Even after bundling my wife with blankets (thankfully there were 3 of them on the boat), she was shivering the entire time
"cold" towels in winter? what is the standard?

Originally Posted by KI-NRT
claiming that it was overcrowded at this time of year

nothing like how Gary warned it would be. It was a trainquil and enchanting experience - it was definitely not a tourist factory in the slightest bit.
1. there could be confusion over which guests consider what crowded
2. you could have experienced lack of crowds coincidentally

re pools >

Originally Posted by Groombridge
The private pools are perfectly heated, but the main pool, at least in late Nov [2011] was not, and was chilly. Didn't stop us from swimming, but we didn't spend a lot of time in the main pool as a result.
---

Originally Posted by KI-NRT
glad we did...the highlight of our trip...amazing...majestic animals
there is also an elephant thing near jiwo, unfortunately no longer the ride to/from property

sounds like FS golden triangle is in your future

Originally Posted by lb8001
I think my visit to the FS Tented Camp a couple of years ago was a life-changing experience. The amazingly cool Thai people I met, the outstanding service and seclusion (this was a visit with no children there, luckily) and most of all, for me, the opportunity to interact every day with the elephants - it was an ideal trip. Every photo of me while there has a huge smile - a week of smiling big all day every day was life-changing
Originally Posted by KI-NRT
Road to Mandalay
how was it?

if you return in future - orient-express.com/collection/riverboats/orcaella.jsp

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Aug 6, 2017 at 3:35 am
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 11:07 am
  #5  
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Great photos and details. We don't hear a lot about this property. Thanks.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 4:39 pm
  #6  
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Originally Posted by halibahs
Is the main pool heated?
We did not try the main pool. The pool in our suite seemed warm enough, but I only got around to dipping my feet into it.

Originally Posted by FlyerEC
Perhaps , others skipped the elephants due to the cold?
Actually, I should have explained that it was only frigid on one of the days. It was, unfortunately, the day we choose the Luang Prabang city tour in the morning and Mekong Cruise in the afternoon (Dec. 31.)

It was warm and balmy on New Year's Day (elephant riding.)

Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
1. there could be confusion over which guests consider what crowded
2. you could have experienced lack of crowds coincidentally
It definitely was not crowded. Unlike what happens with many horseback rides, we were never grouped with other people. There was one elephant & couple that followed us for about 5 minutes (on the same trail), but they quickly passed us by - our elephant was a bit slow, which gave us more time to savor the experience.

I wouldn't rule out #2 as a possibility, however.

re Road to Mandalay >
Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
how was it?

if you return in future - http://www.orient-express.com/collec...s/orcaella.jsp
It was terrific. Cabins were spacious enough (we stayed at a State Cabin), staff were friendly and service was polished. Food was, however, hit or miss. We skipped many of the group tours since we prefer private tours, or going it alone (the right call in this case.)

Different strokes for different folks, I guess, but we will definitely pass on Orcaella since it will be a much longer cruise compared to Road to Mandalay (4 nights on the boat was just right, at least for us.)

By the way, I was only intending to cover Amantaka, but someone seems to have changed the subject to Trip Report: Amantaka (Myanmar).

We WISH there was an Aman there!

Last edited by KI-NRT; Feb 16, 2013 at 4:46 pm
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 5:38 pm
  #7  
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Originally Posted by KI-NRT
We did not try the main pool. The pool in our suite seemed warm enough, but I only got around to dipping my feet into it.

Actually, I should have explained that it was only frigid on one of the days. It was, unfortunately, the day we choose the Luang Prabang city tour in the morning and Mekong Cruise in the afternoon (Dec. 31.)

It was warm and balmy on New Year's Day (elephant riding.)

It definitely was not crowded. Unlike what happens with many horseback rides, we were never grouped with other people. There was one elephant & couple that followed us for about 5 minutes (on the same trail), but they quickly passed us by - our elephant was a bit slow, which gave us more time to savor the experience.

I wouldn't rule out #2 as a possibility, however.

re Road to Mandalay >

It was terrific. Cabins were spacious enough (we stayed at a State Cabin), staff were friendly and service was polished. Food was, however, hit or miss. We skipped many of the group tours since we prefer private tours, or going it alone (the right call in this case.)

Different strokes for different folks, I guess, but we will definitely pass on Orcaella since it will be a much longer cruise compared to Road to Mandalay (4 nights on the boat was just right, at least for us.)

By the way, I was only intending to cover Amantaka, but someone seems to have changed the subject to Trip Report: Amantaka (Myanmar).

We WISH there was an Aman there!
Aman used to manage The Strand but seems it has lost it's standing even tho' it's managed by GHM.

I maybe the exception but do love the cold , so swam in our pool as it was well heated even early morn.
The main pool is too ' exposed ' - public for me, just as in Sara.
At least e.g. for Nusa , it's large & for anyone to to see the pool, they will have to look down ..
Others have views to compensate..

So , it's also icy cold towels requested even in the Arctic & it is - likely in my profile - an Aman " standard "
The weather in Feb seems to mark the change of seasons in LB so can be warm midday & cold at other times.

Wonder when the new runway will be ready now.

Burmese food is generally nothing to write home about while Laotian fares better ..
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 8:59 am
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Smile Amantaka and Burma

Sorry the experience at taka was not better. We did a similar trip over New Years one year ago. Amantaka and Burma. We loved Taka. We were first off the back of plane, first through immigration and they were there waiting. We thought the food was good, but did also enjoy 2 meals in town. We had wonderful weather the day of our boat trip with a nice Lao lunch on the boat, and a gorgeous sunset coming home. For us the boat was a highlight. We did not visit the elephants so cannot comment here. We did experience the same New Year's Eve activities which we also really enjoyed. The service we had was excellent so sorry to hear it may have gone down. Gary was very present when we were there as well. We also stayed in a khan suite which we loved and did use the pool as we had nice warm weather! Cool on the early mornings and evenings, but warm during the day.

In regards to Burma we also enjoyed 4 nights in a state room on the orient express. Also thought the food mediocre, but had a fantastic guide! And it was only the two of us and one other Australian couple who we got to know and enjoy very much! I think we were lucky as the boat was only 50% full (early jan. 2012), so we had a guide for just 4 people! We loved the trip and boat. We stayed at the governors residence on the way in and strand on the way out. We preferred governors as they had a very good chef so our meals were the best we had in Burma. We also went to inle lake which we loved but no luxury accommodations. I will go back to Burma again for sure. Would also return to Taka.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:43 am
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KI-NRT what options were there for "house outings once a day with an English speaking guide and driver" and are they private? (sara actually says private.)

id be curious to see what others who went before the rate change say they charged for those options.

Originally Posted by KI-NRT
pool in our suite seemed warm enough

Actually, I should have explained that it was only frigid on one of the days.

It was warm and balmy on New Year's Day
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 6:03 pm
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Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
KI-NRT what options were there for "house outings once a day with an English speaking guide and driver" and are they private? (sara actually says private.)

id be curious to see what others who went before the rate change say they charged for those options.
Yes, they are private, except for the Baci ceremony.

When I inquired about the activities that were included as part of the one activity per day compulsory supplementary charge (it's compulsory during Xmas/New Year's), these are the activities that were mentioned:

1. Private Guided Tour around Luang Prabang.
2. Private Mekong River Amantaka Boat Trip to the Pak Ou Caves with refreshments.
3. Traditional Baci Ceremony
4. 60 minute Lao massage
5. Visit to Ban long Lao Village
6. Cooking Class
7. Tad Sae Waterfall

We opted for the Luang Prabang tour, river cruise and the Baci ceremony.

Note that the elephant camp visit (and ride) is not included.

In case it hasn't been mentioned before, the compulsory board & tours charge is $135 per person per day. It includes:

- Breakfast
- Choice of lunch or dinner daily
- House beverages & house wine (including all drinks in the in-room minibar
- House outings once a day with an English speaking guide & driver (activities listed above.)
- Round trip airport transfers.
* Rates are subject to 10% government taxes and 10% service charge.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 7:42 pm
  #11  
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Originally Posted by KI-NRT
they are private
good to know

Originally Posted by KI-NRT
1. Private Guided Tour around Luang Prabang.
2. Private Mekong River Amantaka Boat Trip to the Pak Ou Caves with refreshments.
3. Traditional Baci Ceremony
4. 60 minute Lao massage
5. Visit to Ban long Lao Village
6. Cooking Class
7. Tad Sae Waterfall
thanks again for all the detail ^

can anyone comment on what they used to charge?
(when not included previously as part of "exclusive")
(current taka exclusive adds one "private in-suite dinner")

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Jan 30, 2015 at 5:55 pm
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 6:03 am
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Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri

can anyone comment on what they used to charge?
(when not included previously as part of "exclusive")
(current taka exclusive adds one "private in-suite dinner")
We went to Amantaka last week over CNY. To the specific question re. standalone pricing of activities - if memory serves correctly, the "tour" types of activities (Mekong, LP tour, cooking class) were in the 220-250 USD ballpark; the pricing is given in the rooms in case you want to add on over & above what's included. I didn't note the pricing for other activities like Baci ceremony.

We had a great experience. Got visas before our trip so went straight through the airport, Aman pickup was waiting (with towels). Also stayed in a Khan Pool Suite, which was very large and pleasant (agree on the comment about the slightly odd layout, but it was kind of charming and very comfortable). We saw a little of Gary but more of Berenice, who was delightful and very helpful throughout our stay.

We did the cooking class (thoroughly recommend), gave alms to the monks, went to the Kuang Si waterfalls & bear sanctuary (fun, if a little crowded with mostly Chinese tourists as you might expect at the time of year, but we found if we did just a little climbing we were able to get to a completely deserted large waterfall pool while the crowds hung out below). And the Mekong sunset cruise, preceded by lunch and an afternoon at Hans Berger's residence, which was lovely.

Food was generally good-to-high quality, if not stellar. We typically go for the local options and did eat a lot of Laotian food, but have to admit that some of their western dishes were excellent.

Not many complaints on service, it was mostly attentive, very friendly, and prompt. We did have to wait a bit longer than you would expect on 2 occasions for small requests like tea/coffee brought to our room (40 minutes with 2 reminder calls in one case). And one waiter in the dining room at breakfast on one day seemed like he wasn't exactly thrilled to be there. But other than those (minor) incidents, all was good.

Anyway this has turned into a bit of a ramble in response to one question! But as a whole we really had a lovely stay at Amantaka and were very well looked after. We would certainly return there if we go back to Luang Prabang.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 9:21 am
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Altocumulus
We went to Amantaka last week over CNY. To the specific question re. standalone pricing of activities - if memory serves correctly, the "tour" types of activities (Mekong, LP tour, cooking class) were in the 220-250 USD ballpark; the pricing is given in the rooms in case you want to add on over & above what's included. I didn't note the pricing for other activities like Baci ceremony.

We did the cooking class (thoroughly recommend), gave alms to the monks, went to the Kuang Si waterfalls & bear sanctuary (fun, if a little crowded with mostly Chinese tourists as you might expect at the time of year, but we found if we did just a little climbing we were able to get to a completely deserted large waterfall pool while the crowds hung out below). And the Mekong sunset cruise, preceded by lunch and an afternoon at Hans Berger's residence, which was lovely.

Anyway this has turned into a bit of a ramble in response to one question!
feel free to "ramble" any time - look forward to reading more in future ^

i wasnt thinking about it only being one activity per day.
so of course they keep pricing for doing multiple.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 11:37 am
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Does anyone know if cool weather is normal for the Christmas and New Years period? I am thinking of staying there this Christmas.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 11:46 am
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Originally Posted by speedbird001
Does anyone know if cool weather is normal for the Christmas and New Years period? I am thinking of staying there this Christmas.
>
Originally Posted by KI-NRT
Actually, I should have explained that it was only frigid on one of the days.

It was warm and balmy on New Year's Day
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