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Rajastan: Amarvilas, Rajvilas, Amanbagh, Aman-i-Khas, Udaivilas

Rajastan: Amarvilas, Rajvilas, Amanbagh, Aman-i-Khas, Udaivilas

Old Mar 19, 2012, 3:06 pm
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Rajastan: Amarvilas, Rajvilas, Amanbagh, Aman-i-Khas, Udaivilas

A condensed review of 12 nights in India follows:

We arrived in New Delhi at 2am, and rather than check into a hotel, we immediately set out for Agra. This turned out a really good move as traffic during the night was very light with no animals or biclysts on the roads. The only dangers were trucks, but there were relatively few of them. We slept most of the 4-hour drive and checked into Oberoi Amarvilas around 6:30. Four hours of rest (it was a Friday, Taj is closed on Fridays), and we were ready to see some of the other sights of the city - of which they are plenty: Agra Fort, Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula and gardens that are being rebuilt on the other side of the Taj -- all highly recommended. The hotel offered: amazing service, and accommodated us with an early check in, the Taj-view balcony room was very nice The view was AMAZING and thus we used the balcony constantly (worth the upgrade!). I read several comments that rooms at this hotel are outdated, and would not agree with those comments. This is our 10th year anniversary trip and I made certain that every hotel was aware - but no mention of our anniversary was made.
The food - there is an a la carte breakfast, limited breakfast buffet, but incredible Indian restaurant for dinner. The only place to stay in Agra

We may have been lucky with our timing, but we didn't have any issues of olfactory insults that I've heard many people talk about. Agra was very spread-out, clearly all based on tourism, and if you want to do souvenir shopping - save it until Jaipur or Udaipur since all the marble was actually brought to the Taj from Rajasthan.

One more comment: we requested specifically an outstanding/special guide from the hotel, and were assured that our request was noted, but the concierge connected us to a woman who told us far more about her family than we needed to know and was rather short on the description of the amazing sights that were in front of us. She kept jonesing for a tip by mentioning how she can't even afford a coffee at that hotel, meanwhile telling us about her car, where she's traveled, and answering all of her freaking mobile calls on an impressive-looking Samsung phone. Name can be provided on request.

Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur. Beautiful property in a lovely setting - about an 30 minutes ourside of Jaipur, actually. We stayed in an "air-conditioned luxury tent", which was a lovely room with all the comforts you would expect from an Oberoi property. We did get a lovely welcome/happy anniversary cake from the GM (btw, we are two men - and one of us thought the GM 'cringed", while the other one wasn't paying attention to GM's facial expressions and was gawking around instead). Lovely spa with good massages, spa pool is a quiet pool (no kids) and there is a much larger pool if you want a more resorty experience.

On the negative we have received a gift of wine from our friends in Delhi, and when wanted to take it to the restaurant and asked the butler to put the wine on ise was informed that the hostess told him that it is against the law in India. When I approached the host at the restaurant, she has mumbled something like well maybe not a law, but would look bad with other guests, let me check with a manager and I would still much prefer that you have your dinner in your room After having to see her now a second time, she has stated in a ADMONISHING tone that she was able to get an approval from her manager, but she hopes that we do not have any more wine with us, and inquired again if we did not prefer to have a dinner in our room Very bad customer service, but instead of spoiling our evening further with more complaints, we decided to take our business somewhere else and had a WONDERFUL dinner at an amazing Rambagh Palace, where both service and the grounds looked to be exceptional. Not having seing the rooms at the Rambagh Palace, I cant really compare it to Rajvilas, but based on the walk through the grounds, I would much have preferred to stay at the Rambagh Palace.

Jaipur is also amazing place to shop: This is the place where the most amazing jewelry is made , lots of cashmere, antiques. Just make sure you go to a place that has a semi-solid reputation (and this is the highest recommendation I can give) WITHOUT a guide - the guides get a hefty commission for getting you into a store, and that's immediately reflected in your price. Bargain mercilessly for everything, even if the store has plaques inside and outside about fixed prices. Do not buy a single article of cashmere/pashmina without doing some sort of a test that it's real wool, not acryllic (just google how to do it quickly on the spot). If somebody in the store says "we are a wholesaler" and "we sell these articles to designer X for which they charge $$$", ask to be shown the webiste or the print catalog of that designer. Read up just a bit on what to look for in good stones (diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires). Lots of semiprecious stones... Lots of "cultured ivory" - a mix of marble powder and camel bone pressed together into a material that does look pretty close to ivory - and will smell of bone if you stick a hot needle into it.

We have been told about many different times of cashmeres - the most valuable (from the throat of the goat), followed by wool from the belly, and finally from back and legs. If it's all wool and the prices are significantly different, I can assure you that it will not affect the insulating quality of the scarf/shawl. There are some amazing block-printing workshops, beatifuly embroidery. As always, buyer beware. And BARGAIN!

We also had a fortune of finding and making a connection with an excellent driver, who has worked for 12 years at Rajvilas, and with the help of the former GM of the hotel was able to obtain financing to buy a new car. He spoke excellent English and was even brave enough to admit not knowing where to buy certain things or or where some stores were, but was able to get on the phone and get answers within minutes. Please pm for his details if interested.

Amanbagh: From the transfer to the hotel to the stay at the hotel the service was top notch. Room (Garden Haveli Suite) was very nice and we felt no need to even inquire regarding an upgrade. Had a little confusion on the board inclusive plan, which was just a bit embarrassing (yes laundry, no laundry, yes alcohol, no alcohol, if yes what kind several people had to be consulted and got contradictory answers, but in the end all was resolved).
Food was delicious. Had a Chatri special dinner which proved to be an experience in more ways than one: due to the fact that it was VERY windy on that day, we were asked to start our dinner on the side of the Chatri (a small domed pavilion of which there are plenty sprinkled around the region to accommodate the various royals during their travels) right by the kitchen where our food was prepared. When the wind calmed down, our table was moved back to the Chatri. While this was a bit of an inconvenience, it was done with such a charm, great service, and provided us with even more a memorable experience (the waiter at that dinner was most gracious and accommodating). Did a couple of tours, all of which proved to be great morning village walk was very memorable, kids were really looking forward to have their picture taken, which was a delightful experience. Also did a combined Bhangarh and Cow Dust tour, while seeing Bhangarh was pretty special (it was also Sunday, so we got to see many locals picnicking and getting a little drunk there still a very nice experience). I imagine that most people won't miss much by skipping the Cow Dust tour if done in a combination with the Bhanagarh as it seemed more like afterthought. Spa/massage had the Ayurvedic Mudha & Shirodara massage, was one of the best ever had (out of almost a hundred massages).

Aman-I-Khas: It is with great pleasure after visiting four Aman resorts that I can now say I finally understand and have fully experienced the full idea of Aman unobtrusive service, where nothing is too much and total anticipation of ones needs. We had an amazing batman, Sunil who has responded to all of our requests with grace and understanding. Nothing ever had to be repeated twice. (Batman - old British term for orderly to an aristocratic/highly ranked officer, usually retired as a servant when his master retired).

The tent was the best weve ever stayed in (after safaris in Tanzania, South Africa, and Botswana) and it had truly outstanding shower, the water pressure was just right the only other such experience I had was in the spa at the Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli. Food was good to very good (my partner thought Amanbagh food was better), I had never felt a need to ask for a special dish, as I always found something on the menu that I liked. Their special dinner, was truly (and again truly) special. In exchanging e-mails with their GM, she has asked me if I wanted to be surprised and I agreed, and I truly was with that said, please ask to be surprised with a special dinner.
No tigers after the three safaris and here is the only comment/suggestion these safaris can be booked online with the park authority directly for a fraction of the cost. These safaris are regulated by the Indian government and while the hotel provides one with cookies and tea/coffee the rest is third party vendor driven, there is a lottery system by which a driver is given a permission to cover a certain portion of the park, do make sure you go onto the section number 3 amazing views of the Fort and palaces. if you also have a special connection e.g. someone who knows someone, it can be arranged that you get assigned a car where previous sightings were just registered, while not a guarantee, still is a better chance of seeing a tiger.

Oberoi Udaivilas: We had a pleasure of staying at both their standard room and the Presidential Suite. Not having visited the Lake Palace, I would say clearly the best hotel in Udaipur. The rooms, the grounds, the food all was absolutely superb. Current GM Jan Tibaldi is doing a phenomenal job at keeping both the grounds and the service top notch! The city is also the smallest, but probably the most developed of all we had visited with amazing roads, well managed traffic, most buildings in good repair.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 5:16 pm
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good info ^

i wonder if aman would arrange agra guide.

Originally Posted by latinrusso
while the hotel provides one with cookies and tea/coffee the rest is third party vendor driven, there is a lottery system...“special connection”...can be arranged that you get assigned a car where previous sightings were just registered
Originally Posted by Ericka
There is a certain amount of wheeling and dealing that goes on after the guides are assigned a route...I wouldn't say there was cash changing hands, but it always seemed like one guide owed another guide a "favor".
>

Originally Posted by Ericka
we credit our excellent Aman-contracted guide who had great tracking skill and loads of insider information. Our jeeps were thoughtfully loaded with blankets (mornings were cold, even in March), water, chai, snacks

a guide as good as ours was able to overcome these factors by jockeying for position, and anticipating the tigers’ movements and getting out in front them

1000 year old Ranthambhore Fort and enjoyed a private brunch served in the ruined “honeymoon suite” where the maharaja would entertain his wive(s) and invite friends and family to use it for trysts. This spot overlooks the prettiest parts of Ranthambhore Park and guests often spot tigers
Originally Posted by latinrusso
Chatri special dinner which proved to be an experience in more ways than one: due to the fact that it was VERY windy on that day, we were asked to start our dinner on the side of the Chatri (a small domed pavilion of which there are plenty sprinkled around the region to accommodate the various royals during their travels) right by the “kitchen” where our food was prepared. When the wind calmed down, our table was moved back to the Chatri. While this was a bit of an inconvenience, it was done with such a charm, great service, and provided us with even more a memorable experience (the waiter at that dinner was most gracious and accommodating).
chatri dinner is finally back.. previously >
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...l#post16232971
(discussion runs through post 24)

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Mar 21, 2012 at 7:05 pm
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 6:49 pm
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chatri dinner is finally back.. previously >
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...l#post16232971

Honestly I didn't think about asking for an Agra guide from the Aman concierge or Amanbagh (btw... the Aman reservation service in Singapore is terrible), given the Amarvilla's reputation. Also, on the way from Amanbagh to Jaipur, I did want to stop at the Amber Fort and did get Aman guide, and while he was much better, he was also a freelancer to worked with Oberoi, Taj and the likes.

Yes, I corresponded with Tim Wheiland regarding the chatri dinners and when they are offered and why. Apparently the area in which chatri is located floods quite badly during the monsoon season, and even when it dries in the fall there are scorpions and snakes... only in the winter and spring is it "safe/possible" to have a dinner at the chatri.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 8:29 pm
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Originally Posted by latinrusso
on the way from Amanbagh to Jaipur, I did want to stop at the Amber Fort and did get Aman guide, and while he was much better, he was also a freelancer to worked with Oberoi, Taj and the likes.

Yes, I corresponded with Tim Wheiland regarding the chatri dinners and when they are offered and why. Apparently the area in which chatri is located floods quite badly during the monsoon season, and even when it dries in the fall there are scorpions and snakes... only in the winter and spring is it "safe/possible" to have a dinner at the chatri.
http://in.linkedin.com/in/timweiland
Amanbagh Hotel Manager October 2010 – Present
Amanjena Executive Assistant Manager December 2009 – October 2010

Originally Posted by Groombridge
There's some sad news: Amanbagh no longer will provide the Jeeman dinner in the chatri that you described as a highlight among all Aman dinners you've had. Here's the note I received from Amanbagh when I inquired about the Jeeman dinner after not seeing it in the listing of activities they sent me:

Regarding Aman Jeeman dinner- we have stopped doing it due to the weather & insects at the place. Now we organize the special set up you at our roof top terrace of the main building, totally open to the stars and overlooking the lovely view of our Main Pool and Garden. Looks so good being led up there on the candle lit stairs then the floral rangoli, diyas and candles (Rs.3000++ per person).
Originally Posted by Ericka
Very sad. When we were there it was perfect weather and no insects, but I imagine that is only the case a few months out of the year.
Originally Posted by Ericka
Re: the chatri dinner, that whole insects and weather thing still boggles my mind. I can see insects and weather being a problem during certain times of year but they certainly weren't a problem when we were there. Maybe there are only a few optimal months to go out there.
Originally Posted by Groombridge
I'm glad to hear that so many of you feel like the response we received at Amanbagh to our request for the dinner in the chattri was a strange response. If we hadn't received a different reason for not doing it each time we inquired, I'd be more trusting.

Initially, we received the insect response Kage posted above. But the next day, my on-site travel agent in India said that the response was bogus--that she had other clients doing the chattri dinner all through the month and there had been no mention by Amanbagh or the guests of insect issues. I then asked Sally Baughen about this when I was at Amandari last September, mentioning that I thought it was strange that they weren't able to do this. She agreed, as she had originated the chattri dinners when she was at Amanbagh. So I followed up directly with Amanbagh's GM, who then gave a different reason why it wasn't possible--that they'd had such a successful monsoon season that the ground was too damp around the chattri. (And when we were there, they did point out the chattri, and it did indeed look as if the waters of the lake were close to surrounding it.) That seemed like a legit reason not to offer these, but since we'd been told a different reason BEFORE the monsoon season even began, the responses, in toto, were a bit strange.

Ericka--remind me what month you were at Amabagh?
Originally Posted by Ericka
March or April. Dry season
Ericka posted report Apr 7
latinrusso posted report Mar 19

Originally Posted by Groombridge
we went to India for our first time in Oct/Nov 2010
Originally Posted by Groombridge
We arrived in the transition between General Managers, with Robin and Manav just leaving for Aman New Delhi, and Tim Weiland from Amanjena recently having arrived.

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Mar 19, 2012 at 8:53 pm
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 1:45 am
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I found the Amarvilas and Rajvilas to both be very underwhelming. Agree that the Amanbagh was great, Tim does a great job. Had the pleasure of staying at the Amanjena during his tenure as #2 there as well.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 2:00 pm
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Thanks a lot for posting the trip report!^
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 2:58 pm
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Nice report, LatinRusso. I too feel that Aman-i-Khas is something special. Sorry about the lack of tigers, though. There is a certain amount of wheeling and dealing that goes on after the guides are assigned a route and I'm sorry to hear that didn't work out for you. I wouldn't say there was cash changing hands, but it always seemed like one guide owed another guide a "favor".
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 8:02 am
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Many thanks for the excellent report. One question: How did you get from Agra to Jaipur? If by car, was the journey stressful?
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 1:10 pm
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I agree that Rambagh Palace is now a better option than Rajvilas. The rooms and suites are all differently decorated and in my experience extremely comfortable. I also think that food and service are now better here.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 7:30 am
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Originally Posted by Londonjetsetter
Many thanks for the excellent report. One question: How did you get from Agra to Jaipur? If by car, was the journey stressful?
Yes, we did drive from Agra to Jaipur (actually Amanbagh), that was actually one of the better roads. I am sure you read many reports on how "unique" driving in India is. Absence of true highways can be stressful, but it becomes part of the experience and Aman jeeps are pretty nice cars.
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