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Old Jan 10, 2010, 8:20 pm
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Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas Review (with Video!)

Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas

Map| 3 Reviews | 100% Recommended

Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas

3752 Las Vegas Blvd S Las Vegas, NV US 89158

Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas (1 Photo)

Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas

Overview

(Click here to view video)

The Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Las Vegas is located in the new City Center complex, and is positioned right on the LV strip for convenient walking access. It is a luxury hotel and private residence. There is no onsite casino or theater.

Design

Adam D. Tihany, a New York based-designer best known for his restaurants (Daniel, Le Cirque, Per Se, Aureole) was the design consultant who worked with the architecture firm Adamson Associates to design the interiors of the Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas, including the guest rooms and suites, F&B outlets, spa and pool areas. I was surprised to learn this because this property shares so much in common with its sister property in Tokyo which I visited during its opening weekfive years ago. As with Tokyo, guests enter a ground-level lobby to a top level grand lobby (23rd floor). The space has majestic views of the Las Vegas strip. The tea room, bar and Twist are also on the 23rd floor. All other guest rooms, suites, the spa and pool are located below this level. Private home residences are located above the 23rd floor, and I was informed they are being sold as empty spaces to be finished to owner specifications. They are apparently beginning to close escrow on many of these spaces this month. What this means in terms of the impact from noise/disturbance due to ongoing construction work at the hotel going forward remains to be seen.

Arrival at Hotel

As my limo from the Aria pulled up to the MO, a doorman in a distinctive top hat opened the door and said, "Mr. Ether, we've been expecting you." I sometimes wonder how hotels manage to greet you by name before seeing your luggage or checking in, but in this case I suspect the concierge alerted the doormen to be on the look out for a frantic guest trying to escape the Aria hotel (see Aria SkySuites review). Needless to say, I was personally greeted and escorted to the 23rd floor while my bags were whisked away by the bellman. "Welcome back, Mr. Ether!" was the greeting I received from Sang at the front desk. He remembered me from the previous evening when I stopped by the front desk to talk with the his colleague Nicholas about possibly changing hotels. Additional welcomes rang in from staff along the front desk. The check-in process was quick and I received my room keys and a package from the concierge. I made the booking under virtuoso but did not receive an upgrade and they were not able to accommodate a late check-out for me the following day. In the envelope was a short typed letter from the concierge Joe. It said, "We are delighted that you enjoyed your experience at Twist. Here is the menu you requested. Should you need anything at all, please don't hesitate to call upon us." That's right, I did mention to Nicholas the previous night that I thought it would be nice to get a copy of the menu. I'm surprised and delighted he remembered my comment, considering I wasn't even a guest of the hotel at the time and I hadn't made my booking until the following day. Nice.

Lobby

The lobby is a grand experience. You are greeted by a modernistic, Asian inspired mosaic lattice wall which opens into floor-to-ceiling windows of the Las Vegas strip and the front desk area. A large sculptural piece anchors the front desk and fresh flowers accent the wall. On the video the lobby appears very dark, and this is a bit misleading. The decor is very intimate which contrasts with the expansive architecture. Like the MO in Tokyo, Tihany creates this effect by using dark wood on the walls, and lighting the floor in pools of light so that what remains are elegant pieces of furniture, table sculptures and elements of human-scale luxury.

Mandarin Premier Room (650 square feet)

The premier room is the largest room category and leads to the executive suite (850 sq feet) which is the next category up. My room (921) was located approximately in the middle of the hotel tower. The room itself is elegantly furnished and lighted. There are floor-to-ceiling windows, but I am a bit disappointed that they are panels that are blocked by the curtains (which ostensibly could have been recessed into the walls). My window panels were interrupted by a solid panel in which a mirror was placed. The windows were somewhat dirty and provided views of the strip and the Crystals shopping center. Sound isolation seemed excellent the evening I arrived, but I did note some noise leakage during the day from either an outdoor concert or someone playing a stereo outside very loudly. Otherwise, the overall environment was excellent.

Furnishings

The furnishings in the room are of very high quality. There were several Asian-inspired pieces, and I found the desk chair so nice and comfortable I wanted to take it home with me. Solid wood with rich surface grain in dark finishes were used for furnishings throughout the room. Delicate crystal sculptures were placed on two side tables throughout the room.

Bedroom

The bed itself is not as comfortable as the Aria SkySuite's. It was a bit too hard for me. However, the sheets and pillows were very comfortable and I had no problem getting a wonderful night's rest. The bedside lighting controls are straightforward but I found them difficult to use at night because they are unlabeled in the dark. Therefore I found I had to randomly press buttons to activate lighting in the middle of the night. The same control panel and A/V system from Aria is employed by the MO, but somehow their system works better. The television worked flawlessly with the remote and had no audio issues at all. In addition the control panel had many cumbersome features stripped away so that it was simpler to use. This increased the utility of the device tremendously.

Bathroom

The bathroom is large and contains twin sinks, television, large vanity mirror, a shower large enough for two people, and a large soaking tub. It was also well stocked with the following items:

Amenity Chest Contents Include:

  1. Sewing kit
  2. Dental kit
  3. Shaving kit
  4. Vanity kit
  5. Shoe Polisher kit
  6. Men's collar points
  7. Loofah
  8. Lip balm
  9. Nail pick

Products by Aromatherapy Associates:

  1. Body lotion
  2. Shampoo
  3. Body wash
  4. Conditioner
  5. Bath soap bar
  6. Face soap bar
  7. Bath salts near soaking tub

Bath Accessories:

  1. Bathroom scale
  2. Blow dryer
  3. Device for flat-ironing hair
  4. Television with remote

Closet

The walk-in closet area came with three drawers for storing clothes, as well as an elevated luggage space, electronic safe with electrical outlets for phones/laptops, umbrella, ironing board and iron, additional blankets and pillows, and a yoga mat. A tray is provided to place your shoes for cleaning.

Turndown Service

The turndown service includes the following items: 1) Room cleaned 2) Ice bucket filled 3) Tray with breakfast menu and vase with orchid placed on bench at foot of bed 4) Orchid placed on bath tub 5) Bathmat placed in front of shower door 6) Coffee/tea set and water placed on dresser 7) Slippers placed on floor mat by bed 8) Bottled water and glass placed on night stand 9) Lighting dimmed 10) Television set to mood music channel

Work Desk

Very comfortable desk chair and work desk with lamp is provided in room. The connectivity panel is accompanied by a technology kit that has every conceivable connector and cord one might need. It would be nice to have a built-in fax machine with personal number as the Peninsula hotels offer, but I don't expect this from MOs and don't expect this will change in the near future.

Checkout

Because MO was not able to accommodate my late checkout on this Virtuoso reservation, I left my bags with the bellman and went to the spa at 1PM for a 3PM treatment. Upon completing my spa treatment, I requested that the spa services be added to my hotel bill immediately because I was going back upstairs to checkout. I was assured this was done. When I returned upstairs to complete my checkout, the bill did not show any spa charges. When I mentioned that my spa charges were missing, I was told that "they were already taken care of with the spa credit". I'm certain that a $340 spa charge wouldn't be covered by a $100 spa credit, but I didn't have time to press the point as I was leaving for the airport. However, I can see this coming back to bite me later with an additional charge from the spa (sans $100 credit). To be sure, I called the spa on my way to the airport and they assured me the charges had been added to the hotel bill and been paid with the spa credit. Well, nothing more I can do if they areforcingme to accept a free day at the spa from MO LV, I guess!

Pluses

1) Brings an established luxury brand and international-level luxury service to Las Vegas. 2) World-class spa 3) World-class F&B (Twist) 4) Non-gaming environment 5) Proximal to the Las Vegas strip and Crystals 6) Public spaces are stunning yet offer intimate, human-scale luxury

Service Issues/Nitpicking

1) Bill lacks sufficient detail for many expense reports, spa credit was not applied properly (?) 2) Turndown service: commode lid left upright, toilet paper not folded or foiled 3) No comb in amenity chest 4) $18/day charge for internet connectivity 5) Late checkout and upgrade were not accommodated on this Virtuoso reservation. 6) Expensive room rates ($595/night for a premier room, caveat being CES).

MO Spa

(Click here to view video) Las Vegas is blessed with many different and excellent spa options. I have personally tried Canyon Ranch at Venetian (70,000 sq feet, 80 treatment rooms), Qua at Caesars (50,000 sq feet, 51 treatment rooms), and the Spa at Encore (61,000 sq feet, 51 treatment rooms). Although I'm sure there are many other wonderful spas in LV, my comments will focus on the MO Spa in comparison to the ones above. One note: I am not a spa junkie, but I do enjoy hotel spas for massages, the associated facilities such as pools, laconiums, whirlpool tubs, saunas, and relaxation rooms--especially after a long day of meetings. I believe that MO's spa is unique and offers several advantages over the ones above. Specifically, it offers world-class features and amenities usually only found in large spas, yet caters to a small number of clients. The MO spa seems specifically created to offer an outstanding spa experience with personalized attention to a very small number of guests. This is because this 27,000 square foot spa only has 17 treatment rooms. I believe MO offers the best spa experience in Las Vegas. Please read on to find out why.

Check-in to the Spa

The MO spa is located on the seventh and eighth floors of the hotel, and I was greeted at the front desk by a receptionist and attendant who simultaneously welcomed me with a Namaste gesture. I arrived at 1PM for a 3PM massage treatment, and I would recommend arriving early so that you can enjoy the spa facilities.

Beginning the Journey

My attendant, speaking in hushed whispers, invited me to the reception lounge where I was asked to complete a short health form. He left through a hidden door panel in the wall and returned moments later carrying a tray with slippers. "Mr. Ether, at Mandarin Oriental we mark the beginning of your journey with us through the slipper ceremony. This is where you remove your shoes and leave the worries of the world behind you and allow us to take you into our care."

This is followed by a cup of tea and refreshing scented towel.

Down to the Men's Spa Area

Men's and women's spa areas are located on the seventh floor of the hotel. My spa attendant JP walked me past the boutique (Espa products mainly, but they have others) down a set of stairs to the entrance of the men's area. Before we entered, he asked me if I had any electronics and counseled me that they should be turned off to avoid disturbing other guests. I was shown to my locker, which contained a spa robe, towels, and a complimentary amenity kit that I was invited to use and take with me after my visit. I was given a complete walk through the facilities, which took about eight minutes, the highlights of the facilities and my experience there include:

A large elevated Vitality Pool area with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the strip that had water heated to 102F. Submerged within the pool are chaise loungers that have air bubbles that blow up from below creating a sensation of floating. A perfect area to relax, and the temperature is not uncomfortably hot so you can linger for a long while. The pool appeared large enough to accommodate six guests. One of my attendants, Adel brought a neck pillow and suggested I use it while I leaned back to read my newspapers. He promptly brought two big fluffy pillows and sat them on the pool floor to my right and suggested I place my papers there to keep them dry. My robe and slippers were promptly hung and stored close by. The steam room is large and has LED lights embedded into the ceiling that slowly change colors as they glow. The steam is scented with various essential oils or extracts, Ylang-Ylang was what JP told me they used the day I visited. The temperature of the steam room was not too hot, and I enjoyed a long and pleasant steam. After about five minutes in the room, JP arrived with a bundle of ice wrapped in a cold towel, which he suggested I use to cool my skin. It was so very refreshing. After another ten minutes, JP arrived with a bottle of cold water just as I was beginning to get thirsty. "Stay hydrated," he suggested. This is an example of the high level of service provided in the spa. Your needs really are anticipated and yet you are given private space to relax without unnecessary intrusion. Three Tepidarium chairs (contoured heated bench chaises) overlooking the strip. These Tepidarium chairs were located in a separate room, for quiet relaxation. I enjoyed them for a very long time reading and relaxing prior to my treatment. They are extremely comfortable and the heat soothes an aching back. Aqua experience showers. The Encore men's spa has something close to this made by Kohler, but MO's takes the concept to an entirely new level. The MO has two aqua experience showers, which are completely enclosed spaces (with a glass door). LED lights and speakers are embedded in the ceiling. Six high pressure jets are placed on the walls in front and behind you. A large plate of jets is mounted on the ceiling and a main shower head and cascade head are located high on the wall in front of you. The experience contains five pre-programmed water and light "shows", Arctic mist, tropical rain, island storm, and others. The water can be intermittently warm or cold, it is a play on contrasts of temperature, force and texture of water sprays on your body. To best enjoy this experience, I found, is to turn the normal shower head on hot as you can stand, and then activate one of the pre-programmed shows. The lights, sounds, and different types of water jets is really refreshing. Especially after the steam or sauna rooms. The sauna at the spa was imported from Europe and has intricate wood details applied to the walls. It is a large sauna with multilevel benches. The heat was comfortable, though a bit less hot that I normally like. I found the heat increased the longer I stayed in the sauna, though I didn't sweat very much. JP brought another bottle of cold water and sprayed orange-lavender essential oils into the air, then left as quickly as he had arrived. The laconium area is a warm room best enjoyed in your spa robe. The heated bench is a great place to lay down and rest in a peaceful atmosphere. Finally, the relaxation room contains a refreshment area that has fruit, teas, and water as well as magazines. The highlight are the four beds, similar to the "cacoon pods" at the Peninsula NYC spa, which I particularly love after a red-eye to JFK. These beds are very comfortable and I could take a nap there for hours. I do wish they might have some heavier snacks like nuts or dried fruit available. I like to stay at a spa for several hours, and sometimes the stomach starts to growl and an apple just won't do.

Treatment: Spa Massage

Napping with an iced towel on my chest in the steam room, my spa attendant JP found me and reminded me that my treatment was scheduled to begin shortly. Renny, my therapist, escorted me upstairs for a Thai massage. I normally get standard Swedish or deep tissue massages as these are de rigeur at most spas, though Balinese is my favorite. I opted to get a Thai massage because it is not commonly available and my lower extremities needed a really good stretch after all the walking I had been doing in Las Vegas. Thai massage isn't for everyone though, which is an important caveat. You don't just lie on a massage table like a lump of coal. The treatment starts by changing into yoga clothes. Thai massage is done fully clothed. The treatment room is non-traditional, there is a large 12-foot square futon-like bed on the floor which you are asked to lay upon. The treatment itself involves pressure, compressions, and a lot of stretching. It is like Yoga except the therapist is doing the work for you, putting you into a series of postures. Still sleep deprived from two horrible nights at the Aria, I amazingly fell asleep towards the end of the treatment. Apparently my therapist had flipped me over a couple of times and stretched me like a puppet, or so I was told later. When I did eventually wake up my therapist was kneeling on the floor waiting for me and invited me to change back into my spa robe. I was very pleased with the treatment and felt much more relaxed. My lower extremities felt much more limber and the soreness from the previous days had vanished.

Check-out of the Spa

JP escorted me back up to the boutique to receive my shoes and checkout. I asked the charges go to my room bill, and the receptionist assured me they would be added immediately. I also purchased a spa robe and asked that it be shipped to my home. I declined an offer of tea or water before I left the spa.

Pluses

1) Penultimate Asian spa experience in Las Vegas. 2) Extremely modern and advanced spa facilities catering to a small number of clientele. 3) Pitch-perfect spa service by men's area attendants. They are there to give you what you need before you even need it, then they disappear. 4) Aqua experience is a very unique feature, but instructions must be followed to obtain optimal experience. 5) Amenity kit is a nice gift. The robe was so comfortable I purchased one to have sent to my home. 6) Nice array of Asia services, such as Thai massage. I would like to see Balinese massage offered. 7) Handwritten thank you note from therapist given to me upon checkout was a very nice touch. 8) Use of spa facilities only is $100/day and complementary with a treatment

Minuses

1) Treatment rooms and spa facilities are located on different floors, so you will have to climb stairs and walk a few minutes to receive your treatment. 2) The spa does not have Vichy showers, so if you seek those type of services you will have to look elsewhere. 3) Pool is not open until Spring/Summer. 4) No shoe horn is available to assist in putting on your shoes as you leave the spa. 5) Prices are expensive, but on par with other luxury spas in LV.

MoZen

MoZen is MO's all day dining venue and it is a pan-asian restaurant described as a kitchen theater with sushi bar, noodle bar, rotisserie and grill. The menu contains items from Japanese, Chinese, Indian, and Thai cuisines. I had dinner and breakfast at MoZen. My dinner at MoZen was excellent but expensive. The total with tax and gratuity came to about $160. This included a starter, a small plate, a noodle dish and dessert.

The tuna carpaccio was excellent. Lightly seared toro tuna is served with garnishes and drizzled with truffle oil. It is accompanied by a light salad.

The Kobe braised shortrib was spectacular. It was priced at $28. I am always a bit skeptical of meats labelled Kobe served in the US, especially since it gives a restaurant the excuse to charge and arm and a leg for an entree. I usually expect Snake River farms or some other American-raised ersatz variety when Kobe is placed on a menu. However, one bite told me otherwise. The meat had that very distinctive truffley unctuousness of Kobe, probably with a high marbling grade given the intense flavor from the fat, though braising would pretty much render much of that out. The restaurant manager visited my table and confirmed that it was Kobe beef from Japan. Quite lovely.

I wanted to try the noodle bar and opted for some La Mien noodles (hot chili oil on the side). They were serviceable, but I would have like more green herbs or even a small assorted herb salad on top of the noodles to brighten the flavors. The beef was somewhat chewy. The broth was flavorful and the noodles were good. Probably not my favorite dish, and if I were to return for dinner I would not order it again. I would caution diners to be very specific about spice. The cooks are fairly heavy-handed with the chili oil, and even though I asked for mine on the side, the broth was still fairly spicy.

Dessert was a passionfruit panna cotta, served in spheres. It was a creative presentation, but perhaps a bit too much gelatin in the panna cotta in order to hold them in their spherical form: the texture was a bit tougher than I prefer. "Thank you Mr. Ether!" the manager said as I left MoZen. "Thank you Mr. Ether!" three more staff members chimed in sync shortly thereafter. "We have a table for you for breakfast tomorrow, see you then!" I was told. My breakfast at MoZen the next day was delightful. My breakfast was included in my room rate, and the hotel only adds the gratuity you choose to provide your waiter to your bill.

A fan of their Kobe, I went for the Kobe fillet with poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. This was accompanied by french fries. I was fearful that this would be too much food for me, but I thought it would be important to fortify myself for a day-long fast to follow in the hotel's spa.

The meal started with an amuse bouche from the chef, a small shot of carrot-ginger juice which awakened my senses with its spice. The orange juice tasted fresh squeezed and the coffee was good, hot, and my cup was always full. Service at MoZen was excellent and the dining room sports great views of the Crystals shopping complex at CityCenter. I would have no problem having a quick dinner here and look forward to wonderful hearty breakfast experiences. Guests looking for romantic, exceptional dinner venues or celebrating special occasions may wish to look elsewhere.


Last edited by ether; Jan 10, 10 at7:28 pm.

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Old Jan 10, 2010, 8:22 pm
  #2  
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My Dinner at Pierre Gagnaire's Twist

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Pierre Gagnaire's Twist
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(Click here to view video)

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WARNING!: Twist is not for everyone! Please read this review and the photos and descriptions of the food before deciding to book a reservation. Those desiring more traditional French cuisine in Las Vegas would do well to consider Guy Savoy or Joel Robuchon.
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I'm an eater. Always have been. My parents owned and operated a restaurant and so my connection with food began as a child. So, without using the pejorative term "foodie" I will say that I am one who loves to experience the world through food and that I will seek to find the best or most interesting experiences I can find when I travel, whether they be three-star restaurants or a stall in an asian street market.

In school and when traveling with friends, I would occasionally take one night to myself and ditch my friends and spend my savings on one special dinner. Some of my most memorable dinners have been solo visits and I've happily continued this tradition when I solo travel for business as was the case with this visit to Twist. My experience with French cuisine in Las Vegas includes Guy Savoy, L'Atelier de Jöel Robuchon (four times), Le Cirque, and Jöel Robuchon at the Mansion. I will base my review in comparison to these restaurants.

I have always wanted to try Pierre Gagnaire's food, but haven't had the chance. I've read some of his books. I'm fascinated by his point of view: throwing out classic French cooking and making it modern, and relevant through fusion. Twist is Pierre Gagnaire's first restaurant in the United States and it is located on the 23rd floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Las Vegas.

Booking a Reservation

The restaurant has 66 seats and I was told it can serve up to 77 covers in one evening. I had no trouble booking a reservation for myself through opentable.com. I will note that the MO does not necessarily have a hidden reserve of tables for guests of the hotel, and bookings are not necessarily easier for hotel guests. The restaurant was fully committed during most of this week due to the CES show.

Reception and Clientele

I was warmly greeted by the receptionist and promptly taken to my table. It was wonderful to see that solo diners are not relegated to the back of the restaurant: I received a wonderful table in the front room with views of the strip. Another gentleman solo dinner was seated on the other side of the restaurant near a window. As the night progressed, the room would fill to include a mix of clientele, including two girlfriends out on the town, a family with two children, a large group of CES participants to my left, and of course couples out for a romantic dinner. Jackets are not required for Twist, and some men elected not to wear them (Kage points out the Twist website requires them: this will probably change over time. Le Cirque changed this after too many clients complained given the LV heat. I can say it wasn't enforced or mentioned the evening I attended service). The overall environment is elevated elegance without being stuffy.

Decor and Environment



The restaurant design itself is stunning in the sense of the large volume of the room, which is partially filled and made more intimate by Bocci lights hanging in sculptural patterns from the ceiling like stars in the night sky. The design reminds me somewhat of Danny Meyer's Modern in NYC, in the sense of the large volume of space and modern design. This is not at all like Jöel Robuchon at the Mansion (sea of intense floral bouquets, French chandeliers), L'Atelier (dark room, open kitchen), Le Cirque (circus theme), or Guy Savoy (wooden lattice walls, almost Japanese aesthetic). At Twist, there are literally craters in the white plaster walls, which provide a rich visual metaphor to Gagnaire's quest to shatter traditional concepts of French cuisine.

Wine List

I'm not a wine expert, and I am a light weight when it comes to alcohol. There is a reasonable selection of wines available by the glass, and I enjoyed starting things off with the Ruinart Rosé NV champagne from Reims. I will not comment further on wine, as there are people far more capable than I who can do so.

Menu

I generally dislike tasting menus because I think many restaurants in Las Vegas design them for tourists and businessmen on expense accounts who don't care to think carefully enough to choose a la carte and who think $500 16-course tasting menu with Kobe beef add-on and wine pairing (as seen at other LV restaurants) is better than a carefully selected starter and main and select wines by the glass. I like the idea of a tasting menu letting you experience a wide range of Chef's dishes, but six or sixteen courses are just too much for me to eat and too many ideas to get my head around.

Several things made me order the tasting menu at Twist: 1) it was a four-course tasting menu plus dessert (you could call it six courses if you include dessert and intermezzo), 2) Langoustine five ways (a signature dish) was included, 3) loin of venison (personal favorite), 4) there were five desserts (I love dessert), 5) the cost was $185.00, entirely reasonable.

The Menu called Pierre Gagnaire's Spirit looked like this:

First Course: Sea Scallops & Foie Gras
Second Course: John Dory Fillet
Third Course: Langoustine Five Ways
Intermezzo: Cucumber, Tomato and Pineapple
Fourth Course: Loin of Venison

Grand Dessert Pierre Gagnaire

The Meal

Amuse Bouche



Usually an amuse is meant to tickle the palate and prime the appetite for what is to come. I would have to say the amuse at Twist is not really a bouche (mouthful) but instead comes in five courses. Because the amuse was not on the menu, I cannot give you the exact names or ingredients, only my general description. A variety of flavors and textures were offered, from crispy potato chip with embedded ?sardine garnish, to a cuttlefish salad that had a nice acid with chewy cuttlefish. My favorite however was a velvety smooth cauliflower purée enriched with lots of cream and butter that was enjoyed with sesame breadsticks.



First Course: Sea Scallops & Foie Gras
Squab breast, foie gras, black olive gelée, sake-apple marmalade, pomegranate seeds

I cannot find anything in my tasting notes on this course which probably reflects how much I enjoyed it (I was too busy eating). The perfect combination of textures and flavors, with a buttery under-seasoned sea scallop picking up its salt from the black olive gelée beneath along with acid from the sake-apple marmalade. Pomegranate seeds debut in this course, but recur two other times during the meal, and provide a perfect sweet acid crunch to the velvety fat of the foie gras. The foie itself is only reached after first eating through a tender filet of perfectly cooked squab meat.



Second Course: John Dory Fillet
Poached in malamar black pepper-citrus butter, cannelloni beans, marin velouté, and crunch sauce

I love fish, and the John Dory doesn't disappoint. The butter-poached fish melts in your mouth, while the cannelloni beans provide an amped-up meatiness. A clever crunch sauce adds delightful texture to the dish.



Third Course: Langoustine Five Ways
Mousseline perfumed with sherry manzanilla, grilled with TTB sauce and avocado, Tartar with Campari turnip and baby greens, seared with Iberico ham and bell pepper, Gelée with Kombu seaweed seasoned with lobster coral.

If there is anything that best describes the thoughtfulness of Gagnaire's cuisine in this tasting menu, it is probably this dish. The progression of the preparations provided me with a gift of understanding a langoustine from its primordial gestation (tartar) to its full evolution rising from the salty ocean. The saltiness of the Iberico and the smoky eggplant garnish perfectly brings to mind the marine environment. But the tartar was my favorite, bright intense, sweet floral notes of clean white flesh punctuated with the crisp acid of pomegranate seeds.



Intermezzo: Cucumber, Tomato and Pineapple
Kirsch brandy, rhubarb mousse, grapefruit granité

I smiled when I first saw this dish. Then I laughed when I tasted it. The sight of it brought back joyous memories of Alain Passard's L'Arpege, where I realized that vegetarianism is not madness. There I was served a tomato granité that was so pure, and honest and concentrated of flavor that I felt I could taste the sunshine on the vine. This intermezzo, a small palate cleanser, might do the same, I thought. There is acid from the grapefruit that cuts the sweetness of the rhubarb mousse, then the alcohol finds your tongue. But the twist here is the heat, incredible heat, that your palate intensely feels from the peppers hidden somewhere in this dish. Amazingly, as soon as the heat reaches maximal intensity, it disappears. Something that you think would ruin your palate, leaves it refreshed and ready for the next course (that's when I laughed).



Fourth Course: Loin of Venison
Red cabbage-black currant jam, tamy potato, pear-celery gratin, "grand veneur" quenelle

Gagnaire's playfulness with contrasts is nowhere more apparent then with this dish. A perfectly cooked loin of venison, is set in stark contrast on dark blood-red cabbage. The unctuous meat plays wonderfully against the sweetness of the cabbage bed. But the highlight is the "grand veneur" quenelle. Grand veneur sauce is usually served with big game (sometimes it's called huntsmen sauce), but here Gagnaire has made it into an ice cream! You might think the contrast of hot and cold would be madness in your mouth, but you would be wrong. The ice cream is not served ice-cold and it melts and wraps around your palate and lingers to flavor the meat in a way that a sauce alone could not.



Grand Dessert Pierre Gagnaire
Qunice gelée, bavaroise, chartreuse parfait, Nelson sablé, meringue, citrus sorbet, Cachaça granité, cucumber marmalade, green apple, Fruit biscuit, seasonal coulis, Ganache, ginger, chocolate ice cream

Twist has a marvelous pastry chef that plays to Gagnaire's principles of innovations and fusion. I think this is best exemplified in the Cachaça granité, cucumber marmalade, green apple dessert. Who would think that cucumber would provide such a flavorful dessert and that it could be garnished with pea shoots? Yet is all works, so well.

Conclusion of Meal



I finished my dinner with a double expresso and some housemade candies and chocolates. I thanked the heavens that I was spared the three tiers of petit fours and confections that are usually brought at this time. The meringue candies were especially light and delicious. It will bear mentioning at this time that the service throughout the meal was superb. The restaurant manager made his usual and customary rounds to the tables and I was warmly greeted by name. My waiter, even thought to bring me one of Gagnaire's cookbooks to peruse, a thoughtful kindness to the solo diner. This is something special I grasp immediately from Twist: it is a place where everyone will feel comfortable before, during and at the end of a meal, from the solo diner to a family with young children. The food is innovative, but approachable. The prices are not atmospheric. The setting is elegant and romantic, but not stuffy. The final twist to Twist may be that fine dining in Las Vegas doesn't need gimmicks or an up-sell, and that above all else, it can be fun.

Last edited by ether; Jan 14, 2010 at 10:28 pm
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 9:33 pm
  #3  
 
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Thank you for an excellent review. Really looking for staying at MO.
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 10:23 pm
  #4  
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Ether, thank you for such a wonderful report! It has made me want to try the MO, and Twist, on my next visit to Vegas!!

The MO room decor looks awfully familiar and unoriginal -- elements of the room reminded me of the SkyLofts and I must agree the windows and window treatments looked disappointing. However, the bathroom does look gorgeous and certainly has elevated the standard in Vegas. I think it is the bathtub that does it -- how was the showerhead? It looks rather disappointing given the rest of the bathroom.

The menu and your description of Twist instantly brought me back to the meal I had at Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. His playfulness, irreverence to convention with such respect of the ingredients, and whimsy made that meal a standout. Twist sounds just like that and I look forward to trying it one day soon.

Thank you once again!!
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 10:53 pm
  #5  
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Your review of Twist made me want to go there ASAP. Great review and beautifully written. I love your attention to detail.
Thanks.
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 2:57 am
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Thanks so much--I've been very curious to hear about Twist, as Pierre Gagnaire remains my favorite restaurant in Paris. Your review makes me want to hop a plane and head west, for a change.
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 4:35 am
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What an absolute pleasure to read both reviews - especially that of Twist. Thank you very much!
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 4:54 am
  #8  
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epic.

* any other thoughts on service? comparisons to other destinations? in vegas, what do you think of encore tower, FS, skylofts?

only skylofts got good reports here, but its reportedly gone downhill.

i thought this was especially interesting >
http://www.vegastripping.com/feature..._id=190&page=1
Originally Posted by MikeE
At this point, they can stick me in a closet for the expected rate they're hoping for; I'm absolutely sold on this place.

My parents and I split ways. They wanted to go play at Aria and despite a two-minute walk to the casino, the driver of the Mercedes S400 hybrid house car insisted that they not brave the cold and gave them a ride.

I've thrice stayed at Skylofts and never thought that anything would ever top my first experience there, but Mandarin has done it successfully.
...
Originally Posted by ether
Late checkout and upgrade were not accommodated on this Virtuoso reservation.
* isnt virtuoso late checkout / early checkin usually "if available" ? (FHR is 4PM "guaranteed")

Originally Posted by ether
Treatment rooms and spa facilities are located on different floors, so you will have to climb stairs and walk a few minutes to receive your treatment.
huh. i wonder how common is this in city hotels...

Originally Posted by ether
one bite told me otherwise. The meat had that very distinctive truffley unctuousness of Kobe, probably with a high marbling grade given the intense flavor from the fat, though braising would pretty much render much of that out. The restaurant manager visited my table and confirmed that it was Kobe beef from Japan.
MOzen

KOBE BEEF TATAKI 100
Wasabi shrimp, caviar

KOBE BEEF HAMBURGER 28
Our custom recipe on a toasted mascarpone brioche bun
with your choice of caramelized Maui onions, beef steak tomatoes, bib lettuce, Apple wood smoked bacon, Serrano ham, smoked Cheddar, Gruyere cheese, blue cheese, chipotle BBQ sauce and sautéed wild mushrooms

BEEF LA MEIN NOODLES 28
Stir fried Kobe strip loin, braised short rib, hand pulled noodles, mushrooms, chili spiced broth with sesame

KOBE MINUTE STEAK & EGGS 28
Farm fresh eggs any style, thin cut steak, house fries and hollandaise

72 HOUR KOBE SHORT RIB 20
Perfumed with rosemary and thyme, edamame puree, yuzu mustard sauce

Mandarin Bar

Japanese Kobe Beef,
Ponzu Emulsion, Crab, Daikon Salad 16
= not japanese.

top grade for japanese wagyu is A5, then kobe/etc is region.

Originally Posted by ether
Jackets are not required for Twist
http://www.mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas/dining/twist/
Smart Casual 
Jacket Required
they recently added jacket required. (after dec 2) bizarre to combine with "smart casual." (bar = "Stylish Casual") only joel robuchon and guy savoy have had required dress codes. someone said joel robuchon doesnt enforce though. i wonder whether twist actually changed, or they arent going to enforce either.

Originally Posted by kingalien
2009 Michelin List:
3-Stars:
Joel Robuchon (MGM)

2-Stars:
Alex (Wynn)
Guy Savoy (Caesars)
Picasso (Bellagio)
6 course (other) >
195 (a la carte) joel robuchon
190 (a la carte) guy savoy
185 (125) alex
(picasso 4 course 123 / 113)

185 (a la carte) twist

i see twist has already increased price from $160. (after dec 24) considering joel robuchon and guy savoy only added a la carte due to economy, its not impossible that twist will remove it in the future.

another epic twist review
http://www.kevineats.com/2009/12/twi...s-vegas-nv.htm

bar masa @ aria
http://www.kevineats.com/2009/12/bar...s-vegas-nv.htm
ohmi beef tataki / with white truffle 89 / 120

kobe garlic soy steak 68

kobe beef sukiyaki / with foie gras 48 / 68

kobe beef udon / soba 28

kobe beef and garlic fried rice 28

kobe skewers with yuzu sauce 25
presumably ohmi is accurate, with rest being domestic.

craftsteak @ mgm
http://www.craftrestaurant.com/cs_menu.html
A5 japanese wagyu from kagoshima - $30/oz

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/608843#4565171
butcher block (rainbow and warm springs) has started carrying a5 beef. we picked some up for a bbq for ncaa, and wow. as good as anywhere ive had it and only $140-150/lb...
thebutcherblocklv.com/
mmmm

huh, new at joel robuchon >
Joel Robuchon restaurant offers complimentary limousine service to all guest reservations for the restaurant.

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Jan 11, 2010 at 1:02 pm
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 4:59 am
  #9  
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Can you write a more detailed review, please? This one is way to short.



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Old Jan 11, 2010, 9:15 am
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Amazing amount of detail, both in your review and your video walk around. Seriously good. Maybe I should retire......
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 1:01 pm
  #11  
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Originally Posted by vuittonsofstyle
Amazing amount of detail, both in your review and your video walk around. Seriously good. Maybe I should retire......
that would disappoint a lot of people here. they would miss your *cough cough*

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Jan 11, 2010 at 8:03 pm
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 1:14 pm
  #12  
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Great review !

By the way, lots of rooms had lights on in the last couple of days (during CES).
Either they were booked quite well, or they simply illuminated the rooms to make it look occupied ?
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 2:09 pm
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
that would disappoint a lot of people here.
ditto.
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 2:13 pm
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Great review! Thank you Ether for taking time to supply so much detail.
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 2:16 pm
  #15  
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I was originally planning on taking up the WYNNBUR special (chartered jet from BUR to Las Vegas) and 2 nights at the Encore in a Tower Room, but have decided to fly WN and stay at the MO instead. I saw the video review on YouTube (which was great) and thankfully am glad that the review here is finally posted. One thing I noted in the YouTube video is that the bathroom shower glass appears dirty (like there are mineral/soap deposits on it). Was that the case? It appears there was none of the other housekeeping issues as suffered at Aria.

Great review. I'll try and report my experiences in the next couple weeks.
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