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Old Nov 9, 07, 8:57 am   #1
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The Kimono / Furisode / Yukata kitsuke thread

Gift the kimono? These things are a commitment, and not a cheap one at that. You need a bewildering amount of accessories to pull one of these off. And there's so much protocol to learn about which ones are appropriate to your age, marital status and the occasion.

I'm still trying to learn and digest information about them so here's a thread for anyone interested in acquiring/gifting/wearing traditional Japanese garb.

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Faux Yukata
If you like the cotton dressing gowns offered at many Japanese hotels then these make easy souvenirs - but they aren't traditional yukata, although the fabric might be printed with traditional yukata patterns. An easy buy, they can be found in departments in a range of sizes - the length (shoulder to, hopefully, ankle) is shown on the packets in cms. (See 'nemaki' described in post 2, which would make a good alternative)

Children's Jinbei 甚平
These are adorable alternatives to yukata and very easy for children to wear - LINK SHOWS RANGE OF TYPES. Folds at the shoulder can be unpicked so the child has a few months extra wear out of the garment.
I tend to buy these second hand as presents - but have started getting these on ebay as the postage costs to the UK are more or less the same as a return ride on the local train in Tokyo. Here's a recommended source
Adults jinbei are also available - these aren't quite so adorable but are still an easy purchase if you like them.

Kimono as dressing gowns?
If you have the fantasy of wrapping yourself up in silk with lengths of gossamer material dripping from your arms (and who doesn't?), you're probably best off not getting a kimono but a kimono petticoat - a Nagajuban (or juban). The collars can easily be replaced (these are called han eri) so if you find a gorgeous second hand one, perfect except for an age stained collar just replace it.
New or old, they come in a huge array of colours, patterns and textures - some of the most beautiful are artfully died using the shibori method. As they don't get folded over your belly in the same way as an outer kimono does they are shorter, which is why they are ideal as dressing gowns - you shouldn't trip over them. Nagajubans come with long sleeves in various lengths (for single women's long sleeved kimono - called 'furisode') or with shorter sleeves. If you are thinking of using it as kimono underwear make sure the width isn't wider than your intended kimono.

Yukata
If you do want to try your hand at wearing Japanese clothes - this is probably the set of items to start with.
you'll need:
* I personally recommend knickers with an open gusset (so you don't have to pull them down). These are good if like me you don't have a washboard stomach.
*A set of comfortable underwear so most of the yukata isn't directly on your skin - a hadajuban and susoyake set is best - I like the cotton gauze kind.
*The Yukata itself - ideally as tall as you are but no less than 10 cms shorter than your total height (nor more than 10 cms longer). But the further from your height the yukata is the harder it is to put on and wear as it makes getting the mid-section fold right difficult (worse case scenario is a 2cm fold around your upper hips which is what I need to do to wear a 148cm yukata I've been given - I'm 164cms tall. Yukatas without the fold look like pyjamas)
*A Hanhaba Obi - this is half the width of a traditional kimono obi belt.
*A couple of Date-jime ties - mens ties will do if you can't get these - I recommed buying a "hakata obi" which is an 'underwear belt' worn under the outer Hanhaba Obi.
Some people like to wear a stiff obi ita under their belts too - this is almost like fixing a washboard to your stomach and helps with any lumps. Just tuck it into your obi before you start tightening it.

Here are two segments from the Aoyama Kimono Gakuin Yukata DVD someone was kind enough to uplaod onto youtube. I now own these DVDs and they are excellent.

HOW TO PUT ON A YUKATA
HOW TO TIE A YUKATA (Hanhaba) OBI (note that the model is already wearing a hakata obi)

It may be in Japanese but it's ten times clearer than any English book I have or instructional drawings/photos I've seen. Just followed the instructions myself and picked up some more hints - the elasticated clips shown are also worth getting - on my packet they are called kimono beruto (belt) in katakana.

This is what I'd recommend getting for a little girl who is too old for a jinbei. There are some beautiful yukatas available for children (some with very long sleeves) and hanhaba obis are also available in children's sizes. As little girls usually have the ideal tube like body for a yukata, the children's obis are often softer.

A Haori jacket
IMO More than the other options (apart from the jinbei) these potentially make the best gifts. Although they come in a range of lengths, they are usually about 75cms long, so cover your bum, and have flapping kimono sleeves. Designed to be worn over a kimono they come in wide range of colours and a vast array of patterns and textures (including plain black ones, with or without family crests). The haori style is usually much more flattering than the closed Michiyuki style of jacket.
They don't fasten so can be left open or are secured at the front with haori chords (which can be bought seperately - this allows you to change the colours depending on what you're wearing it with). Some are very refined and can be teamed with trousers for evening wear - unfortunately, larger busted ladies can look quite frumpy in them (my mother looks awful in these whereas my sister-in-law looks fantastic).
Check the overall width to make sure they aren't too short for your taste (along your arms I mean).

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And that was the easy bit!

I'll leave this for now and tackle kimonos and furisodes later

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For men?
I know even less about traditional men's dress - this seems to be a very good video of how to dress and what's involved:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ic7O0FxVZV8


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AVOID
Synthetic silky garments of the kind sold in the airports or which profilerate in Ebay from sellers in China (like this)

Last edited by LapLap; Jul 23, 08 at 4:29 pm.
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Old Nov 11, 07, 2:04 am   #2
 
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If you're traveling in the winter, the quilted haori jackets make great gifts, especially for someone who is sensitive to cold or lives in a drafty house. I think they're called tanzen.

Department stores sell "bathrobe" type yukata called nemaki ("sleep wrappers"), which function well as summer bathrobes. A young Japanese woman who saw me wearing one of those in a gaijin house about twenty years ago commented that only old people wore nemaki, which tells me that they're authentic, as well as being exceptionally comfortable on a humid day with their cut-out arm pits.
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Old Nov 11, 07, 7:18 am   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksandness View Post
If you're traveling in the winter, the quilted haori jackets make great gifts, especially for someone who is sensitive to cold or lives in a drafty house. I think they're called tanzen.
Did you mean hanten?

I'm glad there's someone else here who has a fondness for these. I'm hardly ever out of mine in the winter. Affectionately referred to as my "potato picking coat".

A whole range of hanten 半纏 are available - some with handwoven/hand dyed cloth which are real craft items. You can find some very good ones at department stores (usually near the section that sells kimono). For cheaper hanten check out neighbourhood shops selling workmen's apparel.

Last edited by LapLap; Nov 11, 07 at 10:23 am. Reason: enter the kanji
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Old Nov 11, 07, 7:53 am   #4
 
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Yes, I did mean hanten. That will teach me to post when tired.
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Old Nov 12, 07, 4:59 am   #5
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And on to

Kimono

Which I'm still intimidated by - and peeved off by the kind of literature and websites I have to read in order to better inform myself on this kind of clothing.

like this:

"Wearing a kimono is not simply a matter of putting it on, for it is the wearer who makes the kimono elegant or tasteless. The truth of this can be seen by imagining he same kimono being worn by two different women, One woman may appear a dazzling princess, the other like a recent arrival from the country. This is because the kimono reveals, rather than disguises, the wearer's inner qualities. There is no other garment which does so so uncompromisingly."

So sayeth Mr Norio Yamanaka author of "The Book of Kimono" - founder of the Sodo Kimono Academy.

Utter guff! If he'd been brought up somewhere else he might say the same about high heels.

I believe "the kimono reveals, rather than disguises, certain people's prejudices, snobbery and conceits." The kind of deportment needed to make a kimono appear graceful can be learnt, and, to be brutally honest, not everyone's physique is compatible with this garment.

So having inherited some beautiful kimono (which I have no intention of allowing to leave to rot in a box somewhere) I've been flung into the domains of people with manga/anime obsessions and Geisha fetishists.

Here's my own take on this:

Wear a yukata first.
This presents you with many of the challenges of putting on a kimono - generally in simpler formats. These include:
*Making your body the right shape. Traditionally achieved with winding towels around your body and tying them into place, now special underwear is available. Find your own way to smooth the curves out of your torso - I got a bra from Rigby & Peller that flattens me up top, and for my waist I've found that fat sanitary towels strategically stuck to the inside of the underwear I linked to above makes a perfect non-sweaty solution (and one you won't see anyone else mention). Use your own initiative to turn yourself into a tube.
*Folding and securing the outer layer so the middle fold is neat and the skirt doesn't swing out at the bottom into an inappropriate A-line (as seen here). And making sure the left side of your garment folds over the right side so you aren't dressed as a dead person.
*Getting the collar right so that it juts out at the back at the right angle and closes up properly at the front.
*Getting to grips with an obi.

The greatest challenge, perhaps, is finding a set of instructions you can actually get along with. Trying to tie an obi following the diagrams in that "The Book of Kimono" I mentioned was utterly beyond me. I failed miserably with most of the instructions I found on the internet too. If you can't have someone show you (and you may need to go through it with them a couple of times) then consider getting one of the DVDs described above: Yukata, Kimono, more Kimono Obi bows.

My belief is that once you are comfortable with a yukata and hanhaba obi, you'll feel much more confident about progressing to a kimono.

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There is a shortcut. And that involves getting yourself dressed by someone who knows what they are doing. In major cities you should be able to find someone who can do this for you - kimono dressers often work in or with Japanese hairdressing salons.

Other considerations -

furisode (long sleeved kimono) aren't really appropriate for married women

What sort of event is it for? Generally, you'll need a Maru or Fukuro Obi to go with a Furisode and a Nagoya Obi to go with a Kimono.

Many of the formal kimono come with family crests - the crests aren't necessarily linked with a surname in the way a British Coat of Arms might be, by that I mean that people with the surname Suzuki wouldn't necessarily share the same 'Komon' crest (this is because much of the population chose their own surnames quite recently). You may not want to attend a wedding or other event labelled with what is effectively someone else's name.

How long can you last in a Western corset? Properly worn, a kimono can be very tight around the torso. When wearing a celebratory furisode with an elaborate fukuro obi I found I was fine when standing, kneeling or perched on a high stool, but deeply uncomfortable on a car seat or low chair. (This is much less of an issue in a yukata).

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Here are some links to a nice friendly Kimono Forum (some kimono forums are anything but friendly) with further links and tutorials
Dressing In Kimono
Kimono Item List with photos of the items I've described
The Kimono Forum is called Tsuruko Maiko tsurukomaiko
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Gift the kimono? Please think about it carefully first, and consider the alternatives.

Last edited by LapLap; Sep 30, 08 at 5:24 am.
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