"Aperitivo" in milan
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 45
"Aperitivo" in milan
Hello, I did some research for my upcoming weekendtrip to Milan and I read that someone should not miss this "Aperetivo" hour that many bars / restaurants are doing.
Google just brings up to many spots to get a clear picture for me. Anyone here can recommand a particular spot?
I tend to Bulgari or Armani Bar ( overpriced tourist traps ?)but if I could find some "local" spot I would prefer that a lot.
(We are staying at the Grand hotel et de milan. So any location that might be walkable / close is prefered, but if the spot is worth to take a taxi, no problam either)
Thanks for all information
Google just brings up to many spots to get a clear picture for me. Anyone here can recommand a particular spot?
I tend to Bulgari or Armani Bar ( overpriced tourist traps ?)but if I could find some "local" spot I would prefer that a lot.
(We are staying at the Grand hotel et de milan. So any location that might be walkable / close is prefered, but if the spot is worth to take a taxi, no problam either)
Thanks for all information
#3
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DCA
Programs: AA EXP; BoNVoY Tit LTP
Posts: 1,919
Another option if you don't mind a more modest experience is to head over to the Navigli and walk around; huge number of people (all locals more or less) drinking and hanging out. As noted above the area around Via Solferino/Brera is fun. The places near Piazza Repubblica are a bit higher end.
#4
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Aperitivi are one of the best things about northwestern Italy. They say it was invented in Milan, but during the nearly one year I spent in Torino they say it was invented there 250 years ago when they started adding spice to wine for medicinal reasons, and came up with things like Campari, Vermouth, etc.
Aperitivi means to open up the appetite for dinner, and has grown to be something else. In Italy getting drunk is considered very bad (brutta figure), so you are not supposed to eat on an empty stomach. Because of that you will always get something to eat when you order a drink at an italian bar. Usually with a drink you will get potato chips, sometimes peanuts.
In Italy, lunch is eaten around 1-2 in the afternoon, and dinner is at 8-9. That's a long time to go without food. People needed to bridge the gap. 15-20 years ago at around 6PM for some reason, Milan started to up the game. Some bars went from potato chips, to adding bruschette. The next bar would compete by serving not just bruschette, but also some cheese. The next would also offer prosciutto with their drinks. And it just kept getting better and better.
It's not happy hour. It's a place to have a snack and to socialize, not to get drunk or to replace the dinner you will have at 8-9 PM. That said, when I was in Torino, I would eat at a nice restaurant every 4-5 days, and could get a full dinner out of the aperitivi on the other days to save money. It was a 7 day a week thing.
Basically, starting at around 6PM when you order a glass of wine you can go to a table and help yourself to some really good snack food. In some places you can order a glass of wine with or without an aperitivo, two euros more for the latter, and get access to quite an impressive spread with pasta, vegetables, desert, etc., all for under 10 Euro. In some places if you pay 3-4 euro more for your glass of wine you have access to a full buffet of pasta, vegetables, cheeses, meats, deserts, anything you want.
Some people say that for every trip back to the buffet bar you should buy another drink. I usually have more than one glass of wine so it was never an issue, but I never saw a problem with people buying a 6 euro glass of wine and eating a quantity of actually very decent food that would cost 30-50 euros in a restaurant.
Definitely get out of your mind that it is Happy Hour. This is a time when Italians socialize. There is a saying, "solo i cani mangiano solo," or "only dogs eat by themselves." Aperitivo is to bring people together to socialize, but not to drink.
Although you can clearly have a full meal for the price of 1-2 glasses of wine, and I did that many times while spending nearly a year in Torino, you are supposed to eat judiciously and save room for dinner at 8-9. This is just to "aperire" your appetite. and bridge you from the lunch you had 7-8 hours ago to the dinner you still have 2-3 hours to wait for. Too often the aperitivi are good that you can't avoid trying them all and I'd wind up having them as my only meal for the price of 2 glasses of wine. Despite the intent of the aperitivo, that's how many students, young people, and professionals eat to save money. It's not an age thing. Go for it, it's fun.
As for Milan, a city that but where I had to go to quite a bit on business when I lived in Torino, I would echo ckendall. Go to the Navigli district. It's not like you have to search out aperitivi in Naviglio. It's like tapas in Spain. Go to a bar, and they are just there at the appointed hour. Window shop, and buy what looks good to you.
You mentioned Bulgari Hotel. Not a tourist trap. Just lavish, expensive, if that's what you want. Superb aperitivi, a great place to open up your appetite, but you are going to pay quite a bit.
If you want a more local place the Navigli area has two main canals, Pavese and Grande, partly designed by Leonardo DaVinci, and it is just hopping with lively bars. All will have aperitivi. There may be a lot of students and tourists getting full on aperitivi.
Naviglio is a nice 40 minute walk from your hotel. Or you can walk 10 minutes from your hotel to the Duomo. The Duomo train station has several trains that leave from it, and I don't remember which one will go to Naviglio Grande. I'm pretty sure you want to go into station M3 and take the number 2 train. This is the night life scene of Milan. Every bar will have authentic aperitivi starting at around 6 or a little before, but it's only going to last for an hour or two, because it's not a substitute for dinner. It's just to hold you over. Just do some window shopping, find the one you want, and have a blast.
Naviglio might get very crowded with the Expo, but I wouldn't write it off. However, If that's not your type of scene, walk about ten minutes from your hotel to the Brera neighborhood. That's where the art schools are, musicians, offbeat, low key, zero tourists. Nice neighborhood. You won't find drunk, touristy foreigners visiting the Expo hanging out in Brera. It's a regular Milanese neighborhood with quiet bars entirely at the service of the locals, who are mainly artists and serious students who appreciate and expect a good aperitivo at a fair price. Just peak into the bar that seems right for you, and eat. If not, go to the next one.
Aperitivi means to open up the appetite for dinner, and has grown to be something else. In Italy getting drunk is considered very bad (brutta figure), so you are not supposed to eat on an empty stomach. Because of that you will always get something to eat when you order a drink at an italian bar. Usually with a drink you will get potato chips, sometimes peanuts.
In Italy, lunch is eaten around 1-2 in the afternoon, and dinner is at 8-9. That's a long time to go without food. People needed to bridge the gap. 15-20 years ago at around 6PM for some reason, Milan started to up the game. Some bars went from potato chips, to adding bruschette. The next bar would compete by serving not just bruschette, but also some cheese. The next would also offer prosciutto with their drinks. And it just kept getting better and better.
It's not happy hour. It's a place to have a snack and to socialize, not to get drunk or to replace the dinner you will have at 8-9 PM. That said, when I was in Torino, I would eat at a nice restaurant every 4-5 days, and could get a full dinner out of the aperitivi on the other days to save money. It was a 7 day a week thing.
Basically, starting at around 6PM when you order a glass of wine you can go to a table and help yourself to some really good snack food. In some places you can order a glass of wine with or without an aperitivo, two euros more for the latter, and get access to quite an impressive spread with pasta, vegetables, desert, etc., all for under 10 Euro. In some places if you pay 3-4 euro more for your glass of wine you have access to a full buffet of pasta, vegetables, cheeses, meats, deserts, anything you want.
Some people say that for every trip back to the buffet bar you should buy another drink. I usually have more than one glass of wine so it was never an issue, but I never saw a problem with people buying a 6 euro glass of wine and eating a quantity of actually very decent food that would cost 30-50 euros in a restaurant.
Definitely get out of your mind that it is Happy Hour. This is a time when Italians socialize. There is a saying, "solo i cani mangiano solo," or "only dogs eat by themselves." Aperitivo is to bring people together to socialize, but not to drink.
Although you can clearly have a full meal for the price of 1-2 glasses of wine, and I did that many times while spending nearly a year in Torino, you are supposed to eat judiciously and save room for dinner at 8-9. This is just to "aperire" your appetite. and bridge you from the lunch you had 7-8 hours ago to the dinner you still have 2-3 hours to wait for. Too often the aperitivi are good that you can't avoid trying them all and I'd wind up having them as my only meal for the price of 2 glasses of wine. Despite the intent of the aperitivo, that's how many students, young people, and professionals eat to save money. It's not an age thing. Go for it, it's fun.
As for Milan, a city that but where I had to go to quite a bit on business when I lived in Torino, I would echo ckendall. Go to the Navigli district. It's not like you have to search out aperitivi in Naviglio. It's like tapas in Spain. Go to a bar, and they are just there at the appointed hour. Window shop, and buy what looks good to you.
You mentioned Bulgari Hotel. Not a tourist trap. Just lavish, expensive, if that's what you want. Superb aperitivi, a great place to open up your appetite, but you are going to pay quite a bit.
If you want a more local place the Navigli area has two main canals, Pavese and Grande, partly designed by Leonardo DaVinci, and it is just hopping with lively bars. All will have aperitivi. There may be a lot of students and tourists getting full on aperitivi.
Naviglio is a nice 40 minute walk from your hotel. Or you can walk 10 minutes from your hotel to the Duomo. The Duomo train station has several trains that leave from it, and I don't remember which one will go to Naviglio Grande. I'm pretty sure you want to go into station M3 and take the number 2 train. This is the night life scene of Milan. Every bar will have authentic aperitivi starting at around 6 or a little before, but it's only going to last for an hour or two, because it's not a substitute for dinner. It's just to hold you over. Just do some window shopping, find the one you want, and have a blast.
Naviglio might get very crowded with the Expo, but I wouldn't write it off. However, If that's not your type of scene, walk about ten minutes from your hotel to the Brera neighborhood. That's where the art schools are, musicians, offbeat, low key, zero tourists. Nice neighborhood. You won't find drunk, touristy foreigners visiting the Expo hanging out in Brera. It's a regular Milanese neighborhood with quiet bars entirely at the service of the locals, who are mainly artists and serious students who appreciate and expect a good aperitivo at a fair price. Just peak into the bar that seems right for you, and eat. If not, go to the next one.
Last edited by Perche; Jun 23, 2015 at 10:04 pm
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 45
Thanks for the replys!
Perche amazing post.
I think I now have a idea what this "Aperitivo" is about.
Brera sounds like what would be perfect for us ( also very convenient as its just a walk from our hotel and we also like to do as much as possible by foot)
( I keep Bulgari bar just as a backup)
We will also check out Piazza della Repubblica ( perhaps during the day )
I think we should do a walk Grand hotel et de Milan - Piazza della Repubblica - back through Via Solferino.
PS: If someone has something else that he recommand we shouldn't miss, all infos are highly appreciated :-)
Thanks again !
Perche amazing post.
I think I now have a idea what this "Aperitivo" is about.
Brera sounds like what would be perfect for us ( also very convenient as its just a walk from our hotel and we also like to do as much as possible by foot)
( I keep Bulgari bar just as a backup)
We will also check out Piazza della Repubblica ( perhaps during the day )
I think we should do a walk Grand hotel et de Milan - Piazza della Repubblica - back through Via Solferino.
PS: If someone has something else that he recommand we shouldn't miss, all infos are highly appreciated :-)
Thanks again !
#6
Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,135
My suggestions from a year ago:
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/22366572-post86.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/22366572-post86.html
#7
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Sep 2000
Programs: UA Million Miler (lite). NY Metro area.
Posts: 15,050
Aperitivi are one of the best things about northwestern Italy. They say it was invented in Milan, but during the nearly one year I spent in Torino they say it was invented there 250 years ago when they started adding spice to wine for medicinal reasons, and came up with things like Campari, Vermouth, etc.
Aperitivi means to open up the appetite for dinner, and has grown to be something else. In Italy getting drunk is considered very bad (brutta figure), so you are not supposed to eat on an empty stomach. Because of that you will always get something to eat when you order a drink at an italian bar. Usually with a drink you will get potato chips, sometimes peanuts.
In Italy, lunch is eaten around 1-2 in the afternoon, and dinner is at 8-9. That's a long time to go without food. People needed to bridge the gap. 15-20 years ago at around 6PM for some reason, Milan started to up the game. Some bars went from potato chips, to adding bruschette. The next bar would compete by serving not just bruschette, but also some cheese. The next would also offer prosciutto with their drinks. And it just kept getting better and better.
It's not happy hour. It's a place to have a snack and to socialize, not to get drunk or to replace the dinner you will have at 8-9 PM. That said, when I was in Torino, I would eat at a nice restaurant every 4-5 days, and could get a full dinner out of the aperitivi on the other days to save money. It was a 7 day a week thing.
Basically, starting at around 6PM when you order a glass of wine you can go to a table and help yourself to some really good snack food. In some places you can order a glass of wine with or without an aperitivo, two euros more for the latter, and get access to quite an impressive spread with pasta, vegetables, desert, etc., all for under 10 Euro. In some places if you pay 3-4 euro more for your glass of wine you have access to a full buffet of pasta, vegetables, cheeses, meats, deserts, anything you want.
Aperitivi means to open up the appetite for dinner, and has grown to be something else. In Italy getting drunk is considered very bad (brutta figure), so you are not supposed to eat on an empty stomach. Because of that you will always get something to eat when you order a drink at an italian bar. Usually with a drink you will get potato chips, sometimes peanuts.
In Italy, lunch is eaten around 1-2 in the afternoon, and dinner is at 8-9. That's a long time to go without food. People needed to bridge the gap. 15-20 years ago at around 6PM for some reason, Milan started to up the game. Some bars went from potato chips, to adding bruschette. The next bar would compete by serving not just bruschette, but also some cheese. The next would also offer prosciutto with their drinks. And it just kept getting better and better.
It's not happy hour. It's a place to have a snack and to socialize, not to get drunk or to replace the dinner you will have at 8-9 PM. That said, when I was in Torino, I would eat at a nice restaurant every 4-5 days, and could get a full dinner out of the aperitivi on the other days to save money. It was a 7 day a week thing.
Basically, starting at around 6PM when you order a glass of wine you can go to a table and help yourself to some really good snack food. In some places you can order a glass of wine with or without an aperitivo, two euros more for the latter, and get access to quite an impressive spread with pasta, vegetables, desert, etc., all for under 10 Euro. In some places if you pay 3-4 euro more for your glass of wine you have access to a full buffet of pasta, vegetables, cheeses, meats, deserts, anything you want.
Waiter, can you explain the difference?
When we walked in to the 'bar', there were multiple plates located on the counter by the front door. I told my wife I was going to get some of those things because they looked good. When the waiter told me I could have that food for an extra 2 euro, I was all-in.
The waiter kept on bringing the food, a couple of plates at a time. When we were finished, he brought more etc etc etc. ^ But wait, as he saw we were winding down, he brought out 2 assorted plates of bakery goodies.
I don't recall the name of this place, but it was on a corner on the edge of the ZTL. It was in the city. It looked very 1885. I expected to see Napoleon walk in.
This experience was far better than eating snacks on the club floor at your favorite hotel chain.
#8
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7
If you want to try a great experience you can try Ceresio 7 or Terrazza Aperol (the second is my favourite in Milan; you pay 10€ a drink but they'll give you a lot of little great snaks).
If you want to live like a Milanese you have to go to the Navigli Zone or Brera.
I can also advise you to use Uber instead of Taxi (tourist traps).
If you want to live like a Milanese you have to go to the Navigli Zone or Brera.
I can also advise you to use Uber instead of Taxi (tourist traps).
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 45
So, we went to Brera and did the aperetivo at a place that I think was called "Bar Brera"
It was at the corner across the "pinacoteca di brera"
We paid 8 euros for the drink
( and 3.5€ for a 1.5 litre bottle of water (!) which is in my opinion very fair priced and water always comes handy at a hot summer day in Milano)
This gave us access to a nice little buffet inside which wasnt something to write home about, but given that it was complimentary it was very good and had~10 different cold dishes / plates
The scenery was interesting and we say alot of italian people (mostly man) who went there just by them selfs but it looked like everyone knew each other.
It was at the corner across the "pinacoteca di brera"
We paid 8 euros for the drink
( and 3.5€ for a 1.5 litre bottle of water (!) which is in my opinion very fair priced and water always comes handy at a hot summer day in Milano)
This gave us access to a nice little buffet inside which wasnt something to write home about, but given that it was complimentary it was very good and had~10 different cold dishes / plates
The scenery was interesting and we say alot of italian people (mostly man) who went there just by them selfs but it looked like everyone knew each other.