Please recommend your favorite non touristy, non super fine dining place in Rome!
Jul 10, 2017, 9:00 am
#136
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Posts: 2,310
Napoli's L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele now has a branch in Rome, on Via Flaminia, not far from Piazza del Popolo. I had their pizza in Napoli and it was excellent - I would assume their Rome location is also good (if one likes Neapolitan-style pizza).
Jul 10, 2017, 7:06 pm
#137
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 17,436
Taverna Parione (Via di Parione - 3 streets west of Navona) has a very good cracker thin crust pizza.
Upthread I mentioned some restaurants in the area our family (4 adults, 2 boys, 10 and 12 y.o.) enjoyed last month. Here's an idea of what it cost us for dinner.
L'Orso '80 - 143€ for 2 antipasti, 3 primi, 2 secondi, a pizza, a bottle of Prosecco, 2 bottles of mineral water, 3 desserts, and an espresso. Bread and cover included. As an added bonus, we were able to walk up on a Friday night at just before 8.00 - early for Rome - and get a table (inside). Also we were treated to three extra antipasti items and a couple of lemon sorbets at no charge. The waiters kept wanting the boys to try different things. And limoncello and grappa after dinner. This was a two hour meal.
A similar meal at il Corallo was 135€.
More expensive (180€) and Not recommended was the much discussed Alfredo.
At little Osteria La Lupa (though I don't have the bill), 6 of us ate and drank for under 100€.
I think if you can swing 80-100€, you can enjoy dinner for 4 in Rome, even with wine. Which beyond the food is an experience in itself, due to the general excellence of waiters in Rome. They have an almost perfect balance of the professional and personable. (Actually found this throughout Italy.)
Upthread I mentioned some restaurants in the area our family (4 adults, 2 boys, 10 and 12 y.o.) enjoyed last month. Here's an idea of what it cost us for dinner.
L'Orso '80 - 143€ for 2 antipasti, 3 primi, 2 secondi, a pizza, a bottle of Prosecco, 2 bottles of mineral water, 3 desserts, and an espresso. Bread and cover included. As an added bonus, we were able to walk up on a Friday night at just before 8.00 - early for Rome - and get a table (inside). Also we were treated to three extra antipasti items and a couple of lemon sorbets at no charge. The waiters kept wanting the boys to try different things. And limoncello and grappa after dinner. This was a two hour meal.
A similar meal at il Corallo was 135€.
More expensive (180€) and Not recommended was the much discussed Alfredo.
At little Osteria La Lupa (though I don't have the bill), 6 of us ate and drank for under 100€.
I think if you can swing 80-100€, you can enjoy dinner for 4 in Rome, even with wine. Which beyond the food is an experience in itself, due to the general excellence of waiters in Rome. They have an almost perfect balance of the professional and personable. (Actually found this throughout Italy.)
Last edited by rickg523; Jul 11, 2017 at 12:17 pm
Jul 11, 2017, 6:50 pm
#138
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Good suggestion. There has been something called "fornelli in fugi," or fleeing ovens, as chefs and restaurants that historically remained in Rome, sometimes for centuries, are now spreading out. If you want to eat at Da Michele, the Napolitano pizza place where Julia Roberts at during the Eat, Pray, Love book, be prepared to stand in the street for two hours before you can get in. They opened one in London, and now in Rome. I usually don't go to that neighborhood, but happened to be a few blocks away yesterday. Still, I'm getting my fix of Roman pizza, which is completely different from Napolitano. But if Da Michele is anything like the one in Naples, this is a great suggestion.
Jul 12, 2017, 9:17 am
#139
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
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Posts: 2,881
I'll add another one to the list: Terre e Domus. It's right in front of the Forum of Triano. Just to the side of the Vittorio Emanuele Monument at Piazza Venezia. This is a virtual dead zone when it comes to food, gelato, etc. It's been in the mid 90's, and very humid. All people are talking about is how they can't breath it's so hot. I joined a gym in Monti and went there today. Unless it's a hotel or very fancy gym, in Italy they are not air-conditioned. They don't even have fans. They don't have water fountains either. Italians are accustomed to this. I've never seen them sweat during a workout, anywhere in Italy. They really take it easy. I was doing my usual routine, and twice the manager came over and asked with me with concern, "tutto a posto?" "Is everything OK?" I told her, "Si." I got through the workout, but I was seeing stars when I was done and went outside where it was only 91F, so I could cool off.
I don't know why, but I started walking down the Main Street, Via Nationale, towards Piazza Venezia, hoping to get a water and gelato to avoid heat stroke, because every now and then I'd be seeing stars. You basically have to jay walk here and there and dodge scooters and buses suddenly appearing from around the corner, and I was doing that while dizzy.
Then I saw real gelato in the window of a place in front of the Traiano Forum. I'd rather go to the hospital and get an IV than rehydrate with fake gelato. The place looked familiar. Several years ago the Rome City government, in order to promote local food, wine, etc, sponsored an informal restaurant. It recruited a real high quality chef. The waiters were all youth in a job promotion program to give them an opportunity to succeed. It was a big success, but it closed a few years ago, so I don't even remember the name. When I walked in, I realized it was the same place, re-opened with the name Terre e Domus. I chatted with the proprietor. It's no longer owned by Rome, but it's agreement with the city is the same. All of the wine is very local. The meat and vegetables are basically from Rome, or within a few miles of it. They are still in the business of promoting Rome and its food and wine. They hired one of the best chefs in the city. They're still trying to promote jobs for youth. In fact, my fine waitress was an almost blind woman, probably in her early 20's, who would probably have a hard time getting a job as a waitress in Rome.
The food was less expensive than a typical restaurant, especially with a view of the Forum literally across the street. In sum, I wouldn't travel across town to eat here, but most people are going to be at the Forum at some point. Where almost all of the food in this part of town is frozen, the gelato fake, and the wine cheap, that is not the case here, where they are showcasing the best local products of the region. After a large gelato and a bottle of water, I was cured.
I don't know why, but I started walking down the Main Street, Via Nationale, towards Piazza Venezia, hoping to get a water and gelato to avoid heat stroke, because every now and then I'd be seeing stars. You basically have to jay walk here and there and dodge scooters and buses suddenly appearing from around the corner, and I was doing that while dizzy.
Then I saw real gelato in the window of a place in front of the Traiano Forum. I'd rather go to the hospital and get an IV than rehydrate with fake gelato. The place looked familiar. Several years ago the Rome City government, in order to promote local food, wine, etc, sponsored an informal restaurant. It recruited a real high quality chef. The waiters were all youth in a job promotion program to give them an opportunity to succeed. It was a big success, but it closed a few years ago, so I don't even remember the name. When I walked in, I realized it was the same place, re-opened with the name Terre e Domus. I chatted with the proprietor. It's no longer owned by Rome, but it's agreement with the city is the same. All of the wine is very local. The meat and vegetables are basically from Rome, or within a few miles of it. They are still in the business of promoting Rome and its food and wine. They hired one of the best chefs in the city. They're still trying to promote jobs for youth. In fact, my fine waitress was an almost blind woman, probably in her early 20's, who would probably have a hard time getting a job as a waitress in Rome.
The food was less expensive than a typical restaurant, especially with a view of the Forum literally across the street. In sum, I wouldn't travel across town to eat here, but most people are going to be at the Forum at some point. Where almost all of the food in this part of town is frozen, the gelato fake, and the wine cheap, that is not the case here, where they are showcasing the best local products of the region. After a large gelato and a bottle of water, I was cured.
Last edited by Perche; Jul 12, 2017 at 2:08 pm
Jul 13, 2017, 5:14 pm
#140
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Here is another option I stumbled across. For almost any restaurant worth eating at in Italy, you need a reservation. It's been said many times. People eat for 2-3 hours, so there is only 1-2 sittings per table. Locals call at lunch time and reserve them. There are no walk-ups, unless you are lucky, and stumbled into a no-show situation, or it's a not so good restaurant. There are a handful of good restaurants that don't even accept reservations, but for the most part, you need a reservation. When I come to Rome, I always eat a Roscioli's and at Cesare's, but towards the end of the trip. I'm here for another week and a half.
I don't personally use blogs or guidebooks. They don't list every great restaurant, and one's experience could be very diminished if those were the only places to eat. You have to go out and do a little discovery for yourself, as long as you have a general idea what to look for, and how to avoid some of the traps. As someone like Katie Parla said, she learned how to eat in Rome by eating a lot of bad food, so that she recognizes the good stuff when it sticks out. I take certain recommendations, but also like to explore on my own.
If you want to explore Rome, you will be eating some bad food, unless you go by what the locals know. But I've spent enough time here to usually be able to figure it out. Two days ago, since I had signed up for a gym membership, then discovered that I forgot my gym shorts, I went into the city center to buy some. I figured it would be a good time to eat in the Jewish Quarter, since I don't get there that often. Some people say there is no such thing as Jewish Food in Rome. That it's really just ancient Roman food. Because of Hebrew tradition, things don't change, and it's as close to getting to eat the way Romans ate hundreds of years ago. Since I was already downtown, I went there, arriving around 5:15. This is really, really old Rome. The cobblestone streets are so old that I had a hard time walking on them.
It's been really hot. I've lived in Miami, Las Vegas, El Paso, Houston, where it's hot. Rome is in it's own league in the summer. People ask each other if they can breath. I think it's a combination of the heat with the humidity and the air pollution that causes respiratory problems.
I went into an old bar where there was an old jewish man and his wife. He told me that they don't refer to Roman Jewish Food as such. They call it Old Roman Food, which happens to be made in the Jewish tradition. I told him that it was 6:30 PM and everything was closed right now, so I couldn't really find the main street, because everything was closed. He looked at me as if I was an imbecile, gestured toward the heat, the time of day, and said in Italian, "Who in the world would want to eat at this time? Only an imbecile." He told me that Giggetto will open up in half an hour, right next to the Arch of Octavian. He said they are great. I don't go to the Jewish Quarter much, but much of it has now become food touristy. Tables outside, barkers inviting you in, all promising carciofi alla giudea. Literally there is a square, and around it are almost all tourist stores serving the same thing, promoting jewish style artichokes.
I know two good restaurants there. One is Nona Betta, so I wanted to go there. Closed on Tuesday. The other is Piperno. Both of these places stay true to Old Roman, Jewish style cooking which I think is very different from typical Roman fare, and worth trying. With Nona Betta closed, I walked to Piperno, but they don't open to 7:45. I couldn't want that long.
The Jewish Quarter is just off of Torre Largo Argentina, where Caesar was assassinated. Which is also where Roscioli's is. So I figured i'd knock that one out of the way. If I'm bringing someone, I always have a reservation. But I've had luck at the bar. At the tables, there are two sittings. You get 7-9 or 9-11. First of second sitting. After 11 PM you can usually find a table.
Since the bar doesn't have seating, people come, eat, and leave. They don't sit for their two hours. So it's impossible for them to reserve. I figured if I got there at 6:50, I'd have a good shot at a bar seat, even though the restaurant is always sold out. They told me that they bar is sold out too. I told them that they can't control if someone is just coming for a beer, or if they want a big meal. They eat then leave and the next person can have the unpredictably free seat or two at the bar. It seems it's not that way at the bar. I bet at lunch you can get a bar seat at Roscioli without a reservation, but dinner reservations have always been out, and now, seating at the bar.
So there's a little trick. The restaurant is called Salumeria Roscioli. About 4-5 doors down is Pasticerria Rosciolo. It is a pastry shop. They make great pasty. About a year ago, and I haven't seen this advertised anywhere, they set up a communal table that sits 6-8 people around a square, communal table. It's not advertised, and they don't tell you about it, so it's generally empty. I knew about that communal table in the back.The decor is upscale, it''s very nice. So I went into the pastry shop and told them I didn't want any pastry, I want dinner, can I get a table. He said, "in a few minutes, I have to set the table. In other words, few people know about it that they don't even have the table set yet. So I left for five minutes came back, and the table was set, all fancy.
I asked the waiter if the food coming out of this kitchen is the same aa Salumeria Roscioli. He said, and I double checked by asking others on the Roscioli side, that all of the food is the same. The same burrata that you order there, it comes from the same barrel at the pasticerria. The menu is a lot more restricted, but is still ample. But if you order a roman fish, steak or pasta served at both places, it will be the same. They also have the same wine list. They also chop off quite a bit of expense, meaning that the bill is no longer in the remorse stratosphere.
The only problem was, at the communal table an english speaking man and a woman came in with their three year old girl. To keep her quiet, the husband, directly across the table from me, started playing rock, scissors and papers with her, with lots of squealing. In a more public place I don't think would have been possible. We were isolated in a small room, downstairs, clueless mother and father who do not try to exert any discipline. I think this would be unusual.
It's not the full Roscioli experience, but it's clean economical, top notch food. Just go to the bakery and tell them you want to eat in the back
I don't personally use blogs or guidebooks. They don't list every great restaurant, and one's experience could be very diminished if those were the only places to eat. You have to go out and do a little discovery for yourself, as long as you have a general idea what to look for, and how to avoid some of the traps. As someone like Katie Parla said, she learned how to eat in Rome by eating a lot of bad food, so that she recognizes the good stuff when it sticks out. I take certain recommendations, but also like to explore on my own.
If you want to explore Rome, you will be eating some bad food, unless you go by what the locals know. But I've spent enough time here to usually be able to figure it out. Two days ago, since I had signed up for a gym membership, then discovered that I forgot my gym shorts, I went into the city center to buy some. I figured it would be a good time to eat in the Jewish Quarter, since I don't get there that often. Some people say there is no such thing as Jewish Food in Rome. That it's really just ancient Roman food. Because of Hebrew tradition, things don't change, and it's as close to getting to eat the way Romans ate hundreds of years ago. Since I was already downtown, I went there, arriving around 5:15. This is really, really old Rome. The cobblestone streets are so old that I had a hard time walking on them.
It's been really hot. I've lived in Miami, Las Vegas, El Paso, Houston, where it's hot. Rome is in it's own league in the summer. People ask each other if they can breath. I think it's a combination of the heat with the humidity and the air pollution that causes respiratory problems.
I went into an old bar where there was an old jewish man and his wife. He told me that they don't refer to Roman Jewish Food as such. They call it Old Roman Food, which happens to be made in the Jewish tradition. I told him that it was 6:30 PM and everything was closed right now, so I couldn't really find the main street, because everything was closed. He looked at me as if I was an imbecile, gestured toward the heat, the time of day, and said in Italian, "Who in the world would want to eat at this time? Only an imbecile." He told me that Giggetto will open up in half an hour, right next to the Arch of Octavian. He said they are great. I don't go to the Jewish Quarter much, but much of it has now become food touristy. Tables outside, barkers inviting you in, all promising carciofi alla giudea. Literally there is a square, and around it are almost all tourist stores serving the same thing, promoting jewish style artichokes.
I know two good restaurants there. One is Nona Betta, so I wanted to go there. Closed on Tuesday. The other is Piperno. Both of these places stay true to Old Roman, Jewish style cooking which I think is very different from typical Roman fare, and worth trying. With Nona Betta closed, I walked to Piperno, but they don't open to 7:45. I couldn't want that long.
The Jewish Quarter is just off of Torre Largo Argentina, where Caesar was assassinated. Which is also where Roscioli's is. So I figured i'd knock that one out of the way. If I'm bringing someone, I always have a reservation. But I've had luck at the bar. At the tables, there are two sittings. You get 7-9 or 9-11. First of second sitting. After 11 PM you can usually find a table.
Since the bar doesn't have seating, people come, eat, and leave. They don't sit for their two hours. So it's impossible for them to reserve. I figured if I got there at 6:50, I'd have a good shot at a bar seat, even though the restaurant is always sold out. They told me that they bar is sold out too. I told them that they can't control if someone is just coming for a beer, or if they want a big meal. They eat then leave and the next person can have the unpredictably free seat or two at the bar. It seems it's not that way at the bar. I bet at lunch you can get a bar seat at Roscioli without a reservation, but dinner reservations have always been out, and now, seating at the bar.
So there's a little trick. The restaurant is called Salumeria Roscioli. About 4-5 doors down is Pasticerria Rosciolo. It is a pastry shop. They make great pasty. About a year ago, and I haven't seen this advertised anywhere, they set up a communal table that sits 6-8 people around a square, communal table. It's not advertised, and they don't tell you about it, so it's generally empty. I knew about that communal table in the back.The decor is upscale, it''s very nice. So I went into the pastry shop and told them I didn't want any pastry, I want dinner, can I get a table. He said, "in a few minutes, I have to set the table. In other words, few people know about it that they don't even have the table set yet. So I left for five minutes came back, and the table was set, all fancy.
I asked the waiter if the food coming out of this kitchen is the same aa Salumeria Roscioli. He said, and I double checked by asking others on the Roscioli side, that all of the food is the same. The same burrata that you order there, it comes from the same barrel at the pasticerria. The menu is a lot more restricted, but is still ample. But if you order a roman fish, steak or pasta served at both places, it will be the same. They also have the same wine list. They also chop off quite a bit of expense, meaning that the bill is no longer in the remorse stratosphere.
The only problem was, at the communal table an english speaking man and a woman came in with their three year old girl. To keep her quiet, the husband, directly across the table from me, started playing rock, scissors and papers with her, with lots of squealing. In a more public place I don't think would have been possible. We were isolated in a small room, downstairs, clueless mother and father who do not try to exert any discipline. I think this would be unusual.
It's not the full Roscioli experience, but it's clean economical, top notch food. Just go to the bakery and tell them you want to eat in the back
Jul 17, 2017, 11:26 am
#141
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ithaca, NY
Programs: AA Platinum
Posts: 147
https://www.zomato.com/roma/ficini-a...rastevere-roma
A slightly pricier place about a block and a half from Ficini is Popi Popi--similar menu, good food, but they have air conditioning as well as a nice place to sit outside across the street from the restaurant.
Jul 17, 2017, 11:30 am
#142
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: LAX
Programs: UA Plat MM, CM Plat, Amex Plat, Hertz CP, Hyatt Globalist, SPG Gold, Vons Club
Posts: 6,849
For a residential area, perhaps thinks of the Aventine or the adjacent neighborhood of San Saba, but I would especially recommend the much livelier Trastevere area, where there are plenty of tourists, especially at night, but where there are still local people going to local shops and restaurants. For dinner, in Trastevere, you may like Ficini (formerly "La Torre"), on Via Natale del Grande, one half block from Piazza San Cosimato, and also not far from Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. It is a place that changed its name after getting mixed up with another place also called "La Torre," but it is a true Roman local place with mostly Romans and vacationing Italians eating there. The prices are cheaper than at similar places. The grilled lamb chops, abbacchio alla scottadito (if you eat meat) are delicious and only 11 Euro compared to the 16 Euro you pay at other similar restaurants. The pizzas are wood fired and thin. There are good vegetarian options--the classic cacio e peppe, the classic eggplant parmesan--and very fine fish dishes (try it on a Thurs or Fri), in particular the rombo (like flounder or fluke) and l'orata (a mild white fish). There is seating inside and outside. Here is a link to the menu and address from the Zomato website:
https://www.zomato.com/roma/ficini-a...rastevere-roma
A slightly pricier place about a block and a half from Ficini is Popi Popi--similar menu, good food, but they have air conditioning as well as a nice place to sit outside across the street from the restaurant.
https://www.zomato.com/roma/ficini-a...rastevere-roma
A slightly pricier place about a block and a half from Ficini is Popi Popi--similar menu, good food, but they have air conditioning as well as a nice place to sit outside across the street from the restaurant.
Jul 17, 2017, 2:21 pm
#144
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Hmm, I would love to try it. Their menu looks great! Now, if only I can get back there before I leave for Venice on Friday. So many great restaurants, so little time! That's why you don't want to suffer a bad meal or a bad gelato in Italy. There's no time for that.
Jul 20, 2017, 12:42 pm
#146
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: YOW
Posts: 1,024
I am a sucker for the old school Roman resturants. Also if you end up in the Ghetto and want a light meal/snack - Beppe e i suoi formaggi is on via di Santa Maria del Pianto, it about a 1-2 blocks from Via Arenula on the right side as you are walking towards the main piazza in the Ghetto.
Sep 27, 2017, 4:30 pm
#148
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pasadena,Ca.,US.
Programs: AA, Delta, United, SPG plat, Hyatt dia
Posts: 7,140
A five night stay in Prati with lots of food.. I am in Love!
I REALLY enjoyed staying in this neighborhood. Lots of very good local restaurants and the feeling of staying in the "real" Rome.
We had many meals within a ten minute walk from our hotel (Le Meredien Visconti) and some great shopping (The Castroni store!!!!!) on the Via Cola De Rienzo.
Restaurants we visited included Su & Giu (we all really liked this place), La Freschatta Romenesco, Obladi Oblada, Dal Tuscano (good for meat dishes everything else was a bit sloppy) St. Ana (Great service, food was very mixed) and a few others (including AngryPig near the Trionfale market-great Porchetta sandwiches!) and gelato every single night at either Gelateria dei Gracchi or Gelateria La Romano.
We also explored the Testaccio market and shopped at Volpetti also in Testaccio which is well worth a trip.
We had many meals within a ten minute walk from our hotel (Le Meredien Visconti) and some great shopping (The Castroni store!!!!!) on the Via Cola De Rienzo.
Restaurants we visited included Su & Giu (we all really liked this place), La Freschatta Romenesco, Obladi Oblada, Dal Tuscano (good for meat dishes everything else was a bit sloppy) St. Ana (Great service, food was very mixed) and a few others (including AngryPig near the Trionfale market-great Porchetta sandwiches!) and gelato every single night at either Gelateria dei Gracchi or Gelateria La Romano.
We also explored the Testaccio market and shopped at Volpetti also in Testaccio which is well worth a trip.
Sep 27, 2017, 5:38 pm
#149
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
I REALLY enjoyed staying in this neighborhood. Lots of very good local restaurants and the feeling of staying in the "real" Rome.
We had many meals within a ten minute walk from our hotel (Le Meredien Visconti) and some great shopping (The Castroni store!!!!!) on the Via Cola De Rienzo.
Restaurants we visited included Su & Giu (we all really liked this place), La Freschatta Romenesco, Obladi Oblada, Dal Tuscano (good for meat dishes everything else was a bit sloppy) St. Ana (Great service, food was very mixed) and a few others (including AngryPig near the Trionfale market-great Porchetta sandwiches!) and gelato every single night at either Gelateria dei Gracchi or Gelateria La Romano.
We also explored the Testaccio market and shopped at Volpetti also in Testaccio which is well worth a trip.
We had many meals within a ten minute walk from our hotel (Le Meredien Visconti) and some great shopping (The Castroni store!!!!!) on the Via Cola De Rienzo.
Restaurants we visited included Su & Giu (we all really liked this place), La Freschatta Romenesco, Obladi Oblada, Dal Tuscano (good for meat dishes everything else was a bit sloppy) St. Ana (Great service, food was very mixed) and a few others (including AngryPig near the Trionfale market-great Porchetta sandwiches!) and gelato every single night at either Gelateria dei Gracchi or Gelateria La Romano.
We also explored the Testaccio market and shopped at Volpetti also in Testaccio which is well worth a trip.
Sep 27, 2017, 11:17 pm
#150
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Heraklion, Greece
Posts: 7,565
Sorry, completely off topic!
When I lived in Rome in the late nineties the Commune was trying to get rid of the starlings landing on all trees along the streets and "painting" the cars parked there white (plus destroying the real paint layer). Similar to, or as bad as in front of Termini. Since that time I've only been in Prati during the day or late, when they should all be asleep, so I have no idea whether the starlings are still there. Does anybody know whether they succeeded in "moving" them to another place?
When I lived in Rome in the late nineties the Commune was trying to get rid of the starlings landing on all trees along the streets and "painting" the cars parked there white (plus destroying the real paint layer). Similar to, or as bad as in front of Termini. Since that time I've only been in Prati during the day or late, when they should all be asleep, so I have no idea whether the starlings are still there. Does anybody know whether they succeeded in "moving" them to another place?