Rome: Things to know about Rione Monti
#16
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: BUF
Programs: SPG, Chase Sapphire, AA, Marriott Rewards, Priority Club, US Bank Flexperks, UA Mileage Plus
Posts: 80
thanks so much for this thread...we're off to Italy for 10 weeks this winter, ending with a week in Rome...ah...la dolce vita !
#17
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
I started a thread on SlowTravel that you may want to check out (it's an unwieldy thread, because you're not allowed to edit your own posts after an hour goes by!) but it might be useful for your Roman week (my user name there is Jady):
Recommended Sources for Rome Trip Planning
And for such a nice long visit to Italy like the one you have planned, you may benefit from checking out the Italy forum on SlowTravel, unless of course you're already familiar with it!
#18
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
Upscale boutique hotel suggestion: Inn at the Roman Forum
The Inn at the Roman Forum opened in 2006 and has been reviewed very well. Here's its website. It has only 12 rooms and suites, it doesn't have a restaurant for dinner but it boasts "5 star service". It has a lovely little rooftop terrace with views and it actually has its own cryptoporticus.
The location is ideal - IMO of course. It's located at Via degli Ibernesi, a charming, QUIET, little elbow shaped pedestrian street that connects Via Baccina on one end and Salita del Grillo on the other. See this map view to get your bearings. If you saw the recent Woody Allen movie you may recognize this shot (it's the streetview from Via Baccina, looking up the stairs to Via degli Ibernesi on your right, and straight ahead is the Forum of Augustus). The Inn is located in the bend of the street (the street currently isn't mapped on streetview). But this streetview taken from Salita del Grillo shows you the other side of Via degli Ibernesi, (it's the street seen on the left ascending a small hill), and on the right side of the picture you see Via Tor de Conti and the tall firewall that was originally built during Augustus' time to protect his new forum. (The Viminal hill was densely populated in antiquity and vulnerable to fires). The Imperial Fora are just on the other side of that wall. Here's the view taken from the Via dei Fori Imperiali, that's the counter shot to "Woody Allen's" linked before, showing the Forum of Augustus straight ahead backed by the firewall, the open arch and through that you can just glimpse Via Baccina. And lastly, here's a wide shot in satellite view, so you can place the Inn within the context of Rome itself.
In 2007 it made it onto Condé Nast's Hot List as an editor's pick of the world's best new hotels. And here's a more in depth review from CNTraveler. And it's highlighted on CNTraveler's Guide to Rome: Where to Stay.
Travel+Leisure selected it as one of Three Roman Hideaways.
TimeOut Rome made it a Critic's Choice.
Here's a Frommer's review.
And here's its Tripadvisor page.
But as this is FlyerTalk I'd be remiss not to highlight the fact that it's a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and there's a frequent guest Club you can join which will entitle you to perks from your first stay. And the SLH.com site also has a Special Offers page that should always be checked before booking elsewhere.
If any of you have stayed there I'd love to hear your opinions.
The location is ideal - IMO of course. It's located at Via degli Ibernesi, a charming, QUIET, little elbow shaped pedestrian street that connects Via Baccina on one end and Salita del Grillo on the other. See this map view to get your bearings. If you saw the recent Woody Allen movie you may recognize this shot (it's the streetview from Via Baccina, looking up the stairs to Via degli Ibernesi on your right, and straight ahead is the Forum of Augustus). The Inn is located in the bend of the street (the street currently isn't mapped on streetview). But this streetview taken from Salita del Grillo shows you the other side of Via degli Ibernesi, (it's the street seen on the left ascending a small hill), and on the right side of the picture you see Via Tor de Conti and the tall firewall that was originally built during Augustus' time to protect his new forum. (The Viminal hill was densely populated in antiquity and vulnerable to fires). The Imperial Fora are just on the other side of that wall. Here's the view taken from the Via dei Fori Imperiali, that's the counter shot to "Woody Allen's" linked before, showing the Forum of Augustus straight ahead backed by the firewall, the open arch and through that you can just glimpse Via Baccina. And lastly, here's a wide shot in satellite view, so you can place the Inn within the context of Rome itself.
In 2007 it made it onto Condé Nast's Hot List as an editor's pick of the world's best new hotels. And here's a more in depth review from CNTraveler. And it's highlighted on CNTraveler's Guide to Rome: Where to Stay.
Travel+Leisure selected it as one of Three Roman Hideaways.
TimeOut Rome made it a Critic's Choice.
Here's a Frommer's review.
And here's its Tripadvisor page.
But as this is FlyerTalk I'd be remiss not to highlight the fact that it's a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and there's a frequent guest Club you can join which will entitle you to perks from your first stay. And the SLH.com site also has a Special Offers page that should always be checked before booking elsewhere.
If any of you have stayed there I'd love to hear your opinions.
Last edited by sk3; Aug 22, 2012 at 3:26 am
#19
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
Vacation apartment rentals on Via Degli Ibernesi
As you can see above, I've become enamored with Via Degli Ibernesi and found a couple of vacation apartment rentals on this street - so figured I should share. And if anyone is interested in staying at the Inn of the Roman Forum discussed above, these links will provide more details about the immediate area including when the street is closed to traffic.
I like this first one alot in that the entire building was recently renovated, with lovely new common spaces, and new elevator, etc. And the unit itself appeals to me. The one drawback maybe considered a plus: it faces the newly remodeled interior courtyard - but that also means it's guaranteed to be a quiet apartment which is not to be taken lightly in Rome. It's listed directly by the owner on both the US based HomeAway site, and the UK based Homelidays site - and both show many positive reviews from past guests:
I like this first one alot in that the entire building was recently renovated, with lovely new common spaces, and new elevator, etc. And the unit itself appeals to me. The one drawback maybe considered a plus: it faces the newly remodeled interior courtyard - but that also means it's guaranteed to be a quiet apartment which is not to be taken lightly in Rome. It's listed directly by the owner on both the US based HomeAway site, and the UK based Homelidays site - and both show many positive reviews from past guests:
HomeAway: Elegant apartment immersed in the Fori Imperiali
Homelidays: Elegant apartment immersed in the Fori Imperiali
The second one is a bit more quirky in lay out and style, but it has 2 spacious balconies with views, but no elevator. I've seen it listed on many sites over the years but its listing on Airbnb.com seems to be the most current one, and shows the best price. (On each link below you'll see reviews from past guests).Homelidays: Elegant apartment immersed in the Fori Imperiali
Airbnb.com Delizioso attico vs Fori Imperiali
Venere.com The Forum Attic Apartment - Rome
RomeBy.com The Forum Attic Apartment
Venere.com The Forum Attic Apartment - Rome
RomeBy.com The Forum Attic Apartment
Last edited by sk3; Aug 22, 2012 at 2:41 am
#20
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
Markets in Monti
From the blog, Excuse me, where is...
Rome Supermarkets Quirinale
and a link directly to her map:
Quirinale Supermarkets
From In Rome Now: Beyond the Guidebooks:
Rome Shopping: GOURMET FOODS (Monti is just one of the areas with info)
Mia Market (organic produce, take-out, closed Sunday) this one's at the top of my personal list.
Here's its blog in Italian:
Mia Market
And here's the blog translated to English by google:
Mia Market
And its location on google maps:
Via Panisperna, 225
Super Elite on Via Cavour 232 (closed Sunday)
Google maps:
Via Cavour 232
Margherita Conad on Via del Boschetto 52-55
According to 060608 it's closed Sunday
Google maps:
Via del Boschetto 52
And here's the closest one I found that's open daily:
Despar on Via Nazionale 213
Location Google maps:
Via Nazionale 213
Rome Supermarkets Quirinale
and a link directly to her map:
Quirinale Supermarkets
From In Rome Now: Beyond the Guidebooks:
Rome Shopping: GOURMET FOODS (Monti is just one of the areas with info)
Mia Market (organic produce, take-out, closed Sunday) this one's at the top of my personal list.
Here's its blog in Italian:
Mia Market
And here's the blog translated to English by google:
Mia Market
And its location on google maps:
Via Panisperna, 225
Super Elite on Via Cavour 232 (closed Sunday)
Google maps:
Via Cavour 232
Margherita Conad on Via del Boschetto 52-55
According to 060608 it's closed Sunday
Google maps:
Via del Boschetto 52
And here's the closest one I found that's open daily:
Despar on Via Nazionale 213
Location Google maps:
Via Nazionale 213
Last edited by sk3; Aug 22, 2012 at 3:23 am
#21
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
Shopping in Monti
In the articles linked in my first post there are many stores mentioned and lots of shopping advice, but here's a nice little write-up from Revealed Rome that might also be of use:
Rome's Best Shopping Streets: Via del Boschetto
Rome's Best Shopping Streets: Via del Boschetto
#22
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
The new must-see in Rome, and it's in Monti: Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini
I consider this the new must-experience in Rome, it was a big highlight on my last trip and I'll definitely be doing it again - it was that fun:
Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini: An Unforgettable Journey Through Time
Here's its listing on the 060608 site (the official Rome database website) which includes a substantial description of the archeological area and tour as well as the pertinent info. They started off with just one tour a day in English at 1:30 (they're closed Tuesdays) but they've since added a second one at 2:30, and you'll need to make advance reservations. Being that this is now an extremely popular venue I'd recommend not waiting unitl the last minute to make your booking.
Here are some articles and blog posts that describe the experience:
From Revealed Rome: Rome's Coolest, Most Cutting-Edge Ancient Underground Site. From Browsing Rome: Palazzo Valentini. NYTimes from when this first opened in '07: House Tour Sheds Light on Life in Old Rome . And it's also mentioned in this NYTimes article: In Rome, Monti Is a Quiet Treasure. And here's my little write-up on the SlowTravel site (my user name there is Jady).
Here are its TripAdvisor reviews - showing Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini as the number 1 attraction in Rome.
Note that many of these links mention the venue's cost at just €7.50 (including the €1.50 booking fee), but the price has since gone up to €11.50 because they added a new installation for Trajan's Column - another reason I'll be seeing this again!
This site is covered in the Roma Pass (which gives you free entrance to your first 2 sites, and discounts on the subsequent ones). Since Palazzo Valentini is now €11.50, this is one of the 3 more expensive tickets (the other two being admission to the Capitoline Museums, and admission to the Colosseo/Forum/Palatine), so if you do get the RomaPass you might want to make the Palazzo Valentini one of your free admissions.
I read through many of the TripAdvisor reviews and the following notes seem worthwhile to share :
Regarding the booking process - Currently [Oct 21st] when looking at the booking page of its website I see available dates for the next few days only. And in fact, I've read in the TripAdvisor reviews many people complaining they had difficulty using the website when trying to book into the next month. If you encounter this, then best to just book by phone I'd think. (But there were also stories of how some people were able to go to the venue a day before and get tickets, or some on the actual day - so it's a whole mishmash of booking stories being reported). But I wanted to share this particular review so you'll all know what you might encounter when you call. I also read a review where the guy saw no availability through the website for his dates, but when he called he WAS able to book. Another reviewer who booked online advised readers to not pay attention to the fact that his confirmation showed a 9:00 time, that it only referenced the time the site opened, not the time of the tour. (To view these specific reviews on TripAdvisor, you'll need to scroll down past the header to see what it is I'm linking).
Here's the booking and information number +39 06 32810.
Regarding using the RomaPass - I saw complaints that people couldn't use the RomaPass through the website, but in this review below saw that the way to use the RomaPass with a reserved spot was through the phone - he also provides more details of using the phone system: “Fantastic museum - brings the ancient ruins to life!”
Regarding the experience itself - I read various accounts of how sometimes the staff would relent and allow in people who showed up on the spot, resulting in the group size being too large. (In the reviews the group size mentioned definitely varied - sometimes 15 people per group, sometimes 20, etc.) What this lax policy by the venue means is that the rooms might be too crowded to view properly, and more importantly, that there might not be enough chairs for the section where you sit down and witness the recreation of the forums (one of my favorite parts). In hindsight, I also realized that I was lucky in that the group I was in had very nice people - we all made sure that each could see everything properly. And there were no children present. Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against children(!) but I could imagine that experiencing this site in a more crowded group, one less accommodating of each other, and one with kids talking/playing/being kids - would color the proceedings.
On the topic of bringing children - I read many, many reviews that their kids loved it, but one review I think is worth noting. The parent shared how the earthquake/fire simulations were too much for his kid: “More Tours Open Up, Amazing Use of Technology to Bring History Alive, BUT Not for Little Kids Who Scare Easily & Hard to Find!!”
On the topic of is it accessible - I did see a reviewer mention that he witnessed people in wheelchairs being accommodated and brought down a ramp in lieu of the stairs.
And lastly some odds and ends: I read different accounts that some people had tour guides that gave information and answered questions, but when I went the "tour guide" merely ushered us into the various rooms and the entire narration was taped, being fully coordinated with the rest of the visual/audio displays. I also read a lot of accounts that people ate in that employee cafe in the building, before or after their tour, and that the coffee and food were good and the prices were very inexpensive.
Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini: An Unforgettable Journey Through Time
Here's its listing on the 060608 site (the official Rome database website) which includes a substantial description of the archeological area and tour as well as the pertinent info. They started off with just one tour a day in English at 1:30 (they're closed Tuesdays) but they've since added a second one at 2:30, and you'll need to make advance reservations. Being that this is now an extremely popular venue I'd recommend not waiting unitl the last minute to make your booking.
Here are some articles and blog posts that describe the experience:
From Revealed Rome: Rome's Coolest, Most Cutting-Edge Ancient Underground Site. From Browsing Rome: Palazzo Valentini. NYTimes from when this first opened in '07: House Tour Sheds Light on Life in Old Rome . And it's also mentioned in this NYTimes article: In Rome, Monti Is a Quiet Treasure. And here's my little write-up on the SlowTravel site (my user name there is Jady).
Here are its TripAdvisor reviews - showing Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini as the number 1 attraction in Rome.
Note that many of these links mention the venue's cost at just €7.50 (including the €1.50 booking fee), but the price has since gone up to €11.50 because they added a new installation for Trajan's Column - another reason I'll be seeing this again!
This site is covered in the Roma Pass (which gives you free entrance to your first 2 sites, and discounts on the subsequent ones). Since Palazzo Valentini is now €11.50, this is one of the 3 more expensive tickets (the other two being admission to the Capitoline Museums, and admission to the Colosseo/Forum/Palatine), so if you do get the RomaPass you might want to make the Palazzo Valentini one of your free admissions.
I read through many of the TripAdvisor reviews and the following notes seem worthwhile to share :
Regarding the booking process - Currently [Oct 21st] when looking at the booking page of its website I see available dates for the next few days only. And in fact, I've read in the TripAdvisor reviews many people complaining they had difficulty using the website when trying to book into the next month. If you encounter this, then best to just book by phone I'd think. (But there were also stories of how some people were able to go to the venue a day before and get tickets, or some on the actual day - so it's a whole mishmash of booking stories being reported). But I wanted to share this particular review so you'll all know what you might encounter when you call. I also read a review where the guy saw no availability through the website for his dates, but when he called he WAS able to book. Another reviewer who booked online advised readers to not pay attention to the fact that his confirmation showed a 9:00 time, that it only referenced the time the site opened, not the time of the tour. (To view these specific reviews on TripAdvisor, you'll need to scroll down past the header to see what it is I'm linking).
Here's the booking and information number +39 06 32810.
Regarding using the RomaPass - I saw complaints that people couldn't use the RomaPass through the website, but in this review below saw that the way to use the RomaPass with a reserved spot was through the phone - he also provides more details of using the phone system: “Fantastic museum - brings the ancient ruins to life!”
Regarding the experience itself - I read various accounts of how sometimes the staff would relent and allow in people who showed up on the spot, resulting in the group size being too large. (In the reviews the group size mentioned definitely varied - sometimes 15 people per group, sometimes 20, etc.) What this lax policy by the venue means is that the rooms might be too crowded to view properly, and more importantly, that there might not be enough chairs for the section where you sit down and witness the recreation of the forums (one of my favorite parts). In hindsight, I also realized that I was lucky in that the group I was in had very nice people - we all made sure that each could see everything properly. And there were no children present. Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against children(!) but I could imagine that experiencing this site in a more crowded group, one less accommodating of each other, and one with kids talking/playing/being kids - would color the proceedings.
On the topic of bringing children - I read many, many reviews that their kids loved it, but one review I think is worth noting. The parent shared how the earthquake/fire simulations were too much for his kid: “More Tours Open Up, Amazing Use of Technology to Bring History Alive, BUT Not for Little Kids Who Scare Easily & Hard to Find!!”
On the topic of is it accessible - I did see a reviewer mention that he witnessed people in wheelchairs being accommodated and brought down a ramp in lieu of the stairs.
And lastly some odds and ends: I read different accounts that some people had tour guides that gave information and answered questions, but when I went the "tour guide" merely ushered us into the various rooms and the entire narration was taped, being fully coordinated with the rest of the visual/audio displays. I also read a lot of accounts that people ate in that employee cafe in the building, before or after their tour, and that the coffee and food were good and the prices were very inexpensive.
Last edited by sk3; Oct 21, 2012 at 4:51 pm Reason: added 060608 link
#24
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
(Note: I've added a good article to the first post of this thread - it's now the first NYTimes article linked).
Last edited by sk3; Aug 24, 2012 at 12:40 am
#25
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gent, Belgium
Programs: Miles & Bonus *S
Posts: 448
Small note to make is that Gelateria Fatamorgana in Monti is apparently closed on mondays (went there 5mins ago to find it closed, which was rather dissapointing)
edit: went to Claudio Torché's Il Gelato near the Circo Massimo only to find it was also closed. Looks like most good gelato places in Rome are closed on monday, which is not mentioned anywhere on their website.
edit 2: passed by Fatamorgana today again, however the door was now open and it was now confirmed they are closed on monday and open every other other day from 12pm to midnight.
Also grabbed pizza at Panificio Monti as dinner today and it was molto bene.
edit: went to Claudio Torché's Il Gelato near the Circo Massimo only to find it was also closed. Looks like most good gelato places in Rome are closed on monday, which is not mentioned anywhere on their website.
edit 2: passed by Fatamorgana today again, however the door was now open and it was now confirmed they are closed on monday and open every other other day from 12pm to midnight.
Also grabbed pizza at Panificio Monti as dinner today and it was molto bene.
Last edited by WC_EEND; Sep 10, 2012 at 10:46 am
#26
Suspended
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA Gold
Posts: 2,741
Small note to make is that Gelateria Fatamorgana in Monti is apparently closed on mondays (went there 5mins ago to find it closed, which was rather dissapointing)
edit: went to Claudio Torché's Il Gelato near the Circo Massimo only to find it was also closed. Looks like most good gelato places in Rome are closed on monday, which is not mentioned anywhere on their website.
edit 2: passed by Fatamorgana today again, however the door was now open and it was now confirmed they are closed on monday and open every other other day from 12pm to midnight.
Also grabbed pizza at Panificio Monti as dinner today and it was molto bene.
edit: went to Claudio Torché's Il Gelato near the Circo Massimo only to find it was also closed. Looks like most good gelato places in Rome are closed on monday, which is not mentioned anywhere on their website.
edit 2: passed by Fatamorgana today again, however the door was now open and it was now confirmed they are closed on monday and open every other other day from 12pm to midnight.
Also grabbed pizza at Panificio Monti as dinner today and it was molto bene.
#27
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gent, Belgium
Programs: Miles & Bonus *S
Posts: 448
Okay, so I am at home again since about 3pm here, and I just want to say that the gelato I had at Fatamorgana was the best by a country mile (had figs and "snow white", the latter containing vanilla, apple and raspberry sauce). It blew away my previous benchmark (which was Gelateria Isabella in L'Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue by a considerable amount.
also, while not in Monti by any strech, I'd thouroughly recommend going to Pizzarium (right next to the Cipro metro stop) for pizza to anyone going to Rome. It's small and there is not much space to sit, but their pizza (especially the pizza rosso) is simply the best I've ever had.
Finally sk3, if/when you're ever in Belgium, let me know so I can buy you a drink. It's the least I can for how helpful you've been. I think it's fair to say that without your help my trip would not have been such a success.
PS: full trip report coming later in the trip reports board.
also, while not in Monti by any strech, I'd thouroughly recommend going to Pizzarium (right next to the Cipro metro stop) for pizza to anyone going to Rome. It's small and there is not much space to sit, but their pizza (especially the pizza rosso) is simply the best I've ever had.
Finally sk3, if/when you're ever in Belgium, let me know so I can buy you a drink. It's the least I can for how helpful you've been. I think it's fair to say that without your help my trip would not have been such a success.
PS: full trip report coming later in the trip reports board.