Hong Kong Tailor?
Mar 27, 2012, 4:00 pm
#271
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: K+K
Programs: *G
Posts: 4,866
All I can say is that you get what you pay for. First of all, I doubt you are speaking about the identical fabric: one tailor's Super 150 cloth is not the same as another tailor's, particularly if the cloth is from a branded manufacturer. Otherwise, the difference in workmanship is huge. Most shops don't have their own tailors and use a common factory in China. WW Chan has their own in-house Hong Kong based tailors. Many/most tailors use glue to fuse their suits; WW Chan and a few other top shops only use hand stiching. I agree that the "value" is with the high end tailors using high end fabrics, like Loro Piana or Zegna. Holland and Sherry also offers nice fabrics which will be less expensive that LP or Zegna (2/3rds). None of the shops have high overhead, and WW Chan may have among the lowest. Rent would be one of the most expensive overhead items, except for the cost of labor. Hotel/mall storefronts will have higher rents than places like WW Chan. I would presume they have the same cost for fabrics. You might be able to save money if you ask for remnant fabric where they may be down to their last pieces. I seriously advise against the low to middle end shops: you may find yourself throwing away the clothes like I once did. You truly get what you pay for.
I'd like to add that it's just not the TECHNICAL qualities of a place, but also the "soft" qualities: style consultation.
If you know exactly what you're looking for -- cut, fit -- sure you can "guide" a tailor/cutter to make you that suit. But if you have no idea whether you want open or closed quarters; proper button and pocket placement; lapel gorge height and width; natural, roped, or neopolitan sleevehead; etc... then you will be better served going to WW Chan or an equally reputable tailor with a good house style
If all you want is "a dark blue 2 button suit with 2 vents in 120s wool and bemberg lining"... anybody can make that, but you *may* regret the stylistic details later down the road
Mar 28, 2012, 5:35 am
#272
Join Date: Feb 2008
Programs: BA Gold, Hilton Silver
Posts: 86
Just to add to the thread. A few weeks ago I had emailed 'Permanent Style' - a very well respected blog on all things sartorial - to ask some questions, and sadly whilst I went ahead with my decision before his response, this still might be of use to some people when deciding on who to go for when it comes to bespoke.
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012...e-in-hong.html
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012...e-in-hong.html
Apr 11, 2012, 9:14 am
#273
Join Date: Feb 2008
Programs: BA Gold, Hilton Silver
Posts: 86
Since my last post i've been back twice and still no finished jacket.
I can't really blame Alex or Singh as they have tried their best to get things right but as I have said before, they are just the salesmen, not the tailor - and I can say for now that the whole process has been tiresome.
If you want a relatively cheap suit that's purely for business or you aren't concerned about the finer details then i'm sure they will do you just fine. They obviously cater for the 'boxy' business suit more than a younger client.
Perhaps I was expecting too much, but given that I was spending $4500 on just a jacket and having been made to visit the store around 6 times since my first visit and it still isn't right - I should have just spent the extra and gone to WW Chan (more specifically The Armoury).
I can't really blame Alex or Singh as they have tried their best to get things right but as I have said before, they are just the salesmen, not the tailor - and I can say for now that the whole process has been tiresome.
If you want a relatively cheap suit that's purely for business or you aren't concerned about the finer details then i'm sure they will do you just fine. They obviously cater for the 'boxy' business suit more than a younger client.
Perhaps I was expecting too much, but given that I was spending $4500 on just a jacket and having been made to visit the store around 6 times since my first visit and it still isn't right - I should have just spent the extra and gone to WW Chan (more specifically The Armoury).
Apr 12, 2012, 11:03 am
#274
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA - DCA
Programs: BA Gold, American Airlines, Marriott Plat, Hilton Diamond, IHG Diamond
Posts: 5,075
Good idea or bad?
I'll be in HKG for a brief visit. I arrive Thursday evening late and will have all of Friday through Sunday free, then fly out Monday morning. And I'm staying in TST so that makes Danny's quite convenient.
I only need dress pants - no jackets at all. Given the pant is the simplest part of the suiting construction, how likely is it I'll be able to have a fitting Friday and then a second fitting over the weekend? Ideally, I'd like to take the pants with me but if that can't happen then I'll have them shipped to me.
I'll be in HKG for a brief visit. I arrive Thursday evening late and will have all of Friday through Sunday free, then fly out Monday morning. And I'm staying in TST so that makes Danny's quite convenient.
I only need dress pants - no jackets at all. Given the pant is the simplest part of the suiting construction, how likely is it I'll be able to have a fitting Friday and then a second fitting over the weekend? Ideally, I'd like to take the pants with me but if that can't happen then I'll have them shipped to me.
Last edited by geo1005; Apr 12, 2012 at 11:43 am
Apr 13, 2012, 1:35 pm
#275
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3
I only need dress pants - no jackets at all. Given the pant is the simplest part of the suiting construction, how likely is it I'll be able to have a fitting Friday and then a second fitting over the weekend? Ideally, I'd like to take the pants with me but if that can't happen then I'll have them shipped to me.
May 5, 2012, 12:19 pm
#277
Join Date: Feb 2008
Programs: BA Gold, Hilton Silver
Posts: 86
Has been a whilst since I gave an update about Danny's.
Well they finished the jacket, and they even delivered to my office and threw a free shirt in for all the inconvenience, but ultimately it didn't wash the bitter taste out of my mouth.
Overall I would give the jacket 5/10 (as the material was beautiful, fit was not great) and the service a 7.5/10. I'm sure they will be fine for some, and Alex and Singh are nice guys, but if you are looking for a suit style that's more European than Asian i'd avoid them.
On a slightly better note I found a place on Wellington Street in Central called TCNY which does great made to measure suits starting at around $5k, and tailored shirts starting at $550. After speaking to the most senior member of staff there, he told me that they are an offshoot of the Ascot Chang company - and he was a member of the Chang family himself.
The quality is great for the money but the service was even better - they knew how to make a suit fit for the more style conscious, whilst managing to keep it very classic at the same time. They also had a few ready to wear items in store which was great as it could really help to visualise what you were having made, plus buy some ties/pocket squares etc to finish off whatever look you are going for. They take a little longer than most (shirt was about 10 days and the Jacket was about 15 before the first fitting) - but it is well worth the wait. I picked up the shirt a few days ago and it honestly fits better than any shirt i've had before. Picking up the Jacket this week after a first fitting that was 90% perfect, but they noticed that my shoulders are set a little forward and that the material could crease if it wasn't fixed - small details that I would not have noticed!
I'd also recommend Jantzen tailor for shirts as they are very good value for money at 350hkd a shirt and can turn them around in 2 days. The place is usually packed so service can be a little 'rushed' - but don't let that put you off as the finished product is decent.
Well they finished the jacket, and they even delivered to my office and threw a free shirt in for all the inconvenience, but ultimately it didn't wash the bitter taste out of my mouth.
Overall I would give the jacket 5/10 (as the material was beautiful, fit was not great) and the service a 7.5/10. I'm sure they will be fine for some, and Alex and Singh are nice guys, but if you are looking for a suit style that's more European than Asian i'd avoid them.
On a slightly better note I found a place on Wellington Street in Central called TCNY which does great made to measure suits starting at around $5k, and tailored shirts starting at $550. After speaking to the most senior member of staff there, he told me that they are an offshoot of the Ascot Chang company - and he was a member of the Chang family himself.
The quality is great for the money but the service was even better - they knew how to make a suit fit for the more style conscious, whilst managing to keep it very classic at the same time. They also had a few ready to wear items in store which was great as it could really help to visualise what you were having made, plus buy some ties/pocket squares etc to finish off whatever look you are going for. They take a little longer than most (shirt was about 10 days and the Jacket was about 15 before the first fitting) - but it is well worth the wait. I picked up the shirt a few days ago and it honestly fits better than any shirt i've had before. Picking up the Jacket this week after a first fitting that was 90% perfect, but they noticed that my shoulders are set a little forward and that the material could crease if it wasn't fixed - small details that I would not have noticed!
I'd also recommend Jantzen tailor for shirts as they are very good value for money at 350hkd a shirt and can turn them around in 2 days. The place is usually packed so service can be a little 'rushed' - but don't let that put you off as the finished product is decent.
May 11, 2012, 7:47 pm
#279
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,929
On a slightly better note I found a place on Wellington Street in Central called TCNY which does great made to measure suits starting at around $5k, and tailored shirts starting at $550. After speaking to the most senior member of staff there, he told me that they are an offshoot of the Ascot Chang company - and he was a member of the Chang family himself.
Picking up another suit from Edward Tam at E.Italian soon - got that recommendation from the Permanent Style blog you referenced up thread!
May 16, 2012, 1:28 am
#280
Original Member
Join Date: May 1998
Location: Portland OR Double Emerald (QF and AA), DL PM/MM, Starwood Plat
Posts: 19,589
Had my first fitting for a jacket at Danny's and pretty pleased with it so far. Just about all of the earlier comments -- good and bad -- apply. Personally I like the tailor (tall chinese guy with angular features and purple hair now) and he is pretty skilled, but you do have to make your desires known. We'll see how the final product turns out ( 4 day turn-around) but it looks great so far. This is for 2 Zegna jackets ($5500 for the one with Trofeo fabric, $4500 for the other) plus 6 shirts. One shirt was ready and quite good, the collar and cuffs were spot on but needed a closer fit on chest and shorter sleeves. They definitely seem to err on making chest/sleeves too long (understandably so, much easier to take in than to let out!). I did bring a jacket to use as a model for the style, which undoubtedly helps with the process considerably. Using "regular" fabric instead of Zegna would have cut the cost in half but the better fabric is worth it, and at the higher price point get the nicer touches (real buttonholes on the sleeves, hand stitched lapel, etc.).
May 18, 2012, 6:56 pm
#281
Original Member
Join Date: May 1998
Location: Portland OR Double Emerald (QF and AA), DL PM/MM, Starwood Plat
Posts: 19,589
Danny's did a great job -- highly recommend for the price. HKD 4500-5500 for jacket using Zegna fabric that fit perfectly and with nice finish details (hand stitched lapel, real buttonholes on sleeve). Not W.W.Chan quality but pretty close and looks and feels good. Very pleased with the result, I'll be buying more from Danny's.
May 22, 2012, 8:50 am
#282
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 28
Newbie here - usually a lurker, but registered partly to thank you guys for some very useful knowledge. Looking to get a bunch of shirts and maybe a suit or two, some useful insights here.
Flymao - have PMed you re: TCN:Y was hoping to get your further thoughts on it. Anyone else tried them?
Thanks heaps.
Flymao - have PMed you re: TCN:Y was hoping to get your further thoughts on it. Anyone else tried them?
Thanks heaps.
May 22, 2012, 9:40 pm
#283
Original Member
Join Date: May 1998
Location: Portland OR Double Emerald (QF and AA), DL PM/MM, Starwood Plat
Posts: 19,589
My impression is that many tailors will do a good job on shirts and even mid-range suits when given a reasonable turnaround time (say 3-4 days). I certainly saw some fine samples at several tailors near the Sheraton. The issue starts when doing high-end at triple the cost, and consequently higher expectations, or compressing the time.
Jun 2, 2012, 3:22 am
#284
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Since the BoSox and ChiSox won it, now it is the Cubs turn to take the Series. Go Cubs Go!
Posts: 3,685
For those seeking fine and high end tailoring, here is some information. There are tailors and then there are the elite tailors. Sam's tailor and Raja fashions receive mixed reviews when doing Google searches.
Do keep in mind that the most important cost factor in a suit or any other garment is the fabric. A high end fabric like Zegna will make the cost much higher, but the quality and longevity will be much better. In the end, you get what you pay for. WW Chan at 94 Nathan Road has Shanghai style tailoring, but you may have to make an appointment a month out, and then the turn around time is 6-7 days. This is the best high end tailor in Hong Kong. http://www.wwchan.com/
My personal recommendation is Lord's Tailors at 30-32Connaught Road 9F/ http://lords.hk/contactus.html
Lord's are also Shanghai tailors and have high end fabric such as Loro Piana and Zegna. Their prices will be about a third lower than WW Chan. Lord's is on Esquire magazine's Hong Kong recommendation list and have been in business for more than 30 years. The Conrad(and Mandarin Oriental) concierges send their customers there.
At Lord's, I bought a made to measure summer suit made of Zegna light tropical wool. I had three fittings and the order time took 4-5 days. They have their own factory with 50 people working with both a day and night shift. I am very pleased with the Zegna fabric suit I bought. There is quite a bit of hand stitching on the suit, such as the lining and button holes. The suit was not inexpensive, but it is a good value given that the same suit would likely cost double or triple in the United States. In the end, you have to pay for a high quality suit or garment, but it is better to have one excellent suit than 3 or 4 of average quality.
Do keep in mind that the most important cost factor in a suit or any other garment is the fabric. A high end fabric like Zegna will make the cost much higher, but the quality and longevity will be much better. In the end, you get what you pay for. WW Chan at 94 Nathan Road has Shanghai style tailoring, but you may have to make an appointment a month out, and then the turn around time is 6-7 days. This is the best high end tailor in Hong Kong. http://www.wwchan.com/
My personal recommendation is Lord's Tailors at 30-32Connaught Road 9F/ http://lords.hk/contactus.html
Lord's are also Shanghai tailors and have high end fabric such as Loro Piana and Zegna. Their prices will be about a third lower than WW Chan. Lord's is on Esquire magazine's Hong Kong recommendation list and have been in business for more than 30 years. The Conrad(and Mandarin Oriental) concierges send their customers there.
At Lord's, I bought a made to measure summer suit made of Zegna light tropical wool. I had three fittings and the order time took 4-5 days. They have their own factory with 50 people working with both a day and night shift. I am very pleased with the Zegna fabric suit I bought. There is quite a bit of hand stitching on the suit, such as the lining and button holes. The suit was not inexpensive, but it is a good value given that the same suit would likely cost double or triple in the United States. In the end, you have to pay for a high quality suit or garment, but it is better to have one excellent suit than 3 or 4 of average quality.
Last edited by chitownflyer; Jun 4, 2012 at 8:36 pm
Jun 3, 2012, 8:52 pm
#285
Original Member
Join Date: May 1998
Location: Portland OR Double Emerald (QF and AA), DL PM/MM, Starwood Plat
Posts: 19,589
Even within Zegna the price differential can be breath-taking. I had two made, and the Zegna Trofeo fabric increased the finished cost by 20% over the "lesser" Zegna fabric (and 100%+ over other non-Zegna fabrics). Worth it, though.