The few times I've driven in Paris, I didn't find it that bad (yes, even on the Étoile). The style is more fluid then elsewhere (and things such as 'lanes' should be treated as advisory
) but, as a result of this relative lack of regimentation, provided you're decisive and obey the golden rule, then it's actually much more forgiving than elsewhere.
The golden rule is that each car 'owns' the space immediately in front of them. Where there's a conflict, you move by mutual consent. You go whichever way looks easiest (where you're crossing the fewest paths). It looks chaotic, but just about works.
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If you do not bike that often, Paris may be not the best place to start (and specifically with Velib bikes, which are quite heavy and with most of the weight in the front wheel).
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If you don't cycle at all, cities are generally quite daunting, and I wouldn't start in Paris. However, it depends what you're used to. You say the bikes are quite heavy, but my two main bikes are 1) a rusty 1970s steel-framed "gents' 3-speed" with old-style Sturmey-Archer gearing that sits rusting at the station and 2) a gigantic Dutch sit-up-and-beg bike which weighs over 20kg. I prefer this style of just-hop-on riding, so the Vélibs sound ideal! Not sure I'd try trackstanding on one, though...
As for helmets, well... They're really pretty useless for urban cycling. I wouldn't wear one, given the option.
