pho9187

I am an adventurous lady of a certain age travelling alone in September to Poland and Romania. I have a Business Class award on Air Berlin (via AA) for specific dates in September, arriving in Krakow, and departing three weeks later from Bucharest. My interests include photography, culture, history, day hiking, but not shopping. I am interested in exploring my Jewish roots, Dracula is not of interest to me, and lovely churches fascinate me. I have quite a bit of stamina, and I can walk for hours, but I prefer taking day trips from one location, thus minimizing the number of hotels.

Poland: I am pretty happy with the three cities I have chosen. I eliminated Warsaw, since most of it is rebuilt, and the other three cities interest me more. I am unsure whether to take buses or trains between the cities, however, and I am open to critiques of how long I have allotted for each city.

Romania: I am not necessarily set on this itinerary, although, for me, one night in Bucharest will be enough. Some have said that Sighisoara is too touristy, so I thought I might substitute Cluj, or another city instead. Regarding logistics, I was thinking of hiring a driver in each city to take me out for the day, but I am unsure how to get between cities, particularly if I want to stop along the way. Hiring one driver for the whole trip would be too pricey for me, I think.

Thank you in advance for your help with the framework.

Day 1: Leave LAX for Dusseldorf
Day 2: Arrive Dusseldorf--fly to Berlin, then Krakow, arriving at 11 PM
Day 3: Krakow sightseeing I, sleep in Krakow
Day 4: Krakow sightseeing II, sleep in Krakow
Day 5: Auschwitz day trip, sleep in Krakow
Day 6: Train or Bus to Wroclaw, Wroclaw sightseeing I, sleep in Wroclaw
Day 7: Wroclaw sightseeing II, sleep in Wroclaw
Day 8: Train to Gdansk, sleep in Gdansk
Day 9: Sightseeing Gdansk, sleep in Gdansk
Day 10: Day trip to Malbork Castle, sleep in Gdansk

Day 11: Fly from Gdansk to Munich, then to Sibui, arrive 4 PM, sleep in Sibui (use United Miles for this ticket on Lufthansa)
Day 12: Sibui--see the city? Sleep in Sibui.
Day 13: Day trip to where? Peles Castle and Brasov? Sleep in Sibui.
Day 14: Transport from Sibui to Sighisoara, See Sighisoara in the afternoon, sleep in Sighisoara.
Day 15: Day trip from Sibui to where? Sleep in Sighisoara.
Day 16: Transport from Sighisoara to Sighetu Marmatiei, sleep in Sighetu Marmatiei
Day 17: Day trip to where? Sleep in Sighetu Marmatiei
Day 18: Day trip to where? Sleep in Sighetu Marmatiei
Day 19: Driver from Sighetu Marmatiei to Suceava, sleep in Suceava
Day 20: Day trip to where? Sleep in Suceava
Day 21: Day trip to where? Sleep in Suceava
Day 22: Early AM flight (ticket to be purchased) from Suceava to Bucharest, see Bucharest. Sleep in Bucharest.
Day 23: Fly home from Bucharest, flight departs early AM.

helosc

I would recommend considering one more night in Bucharest.
There are some nice museums.
For example :

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jewi...eum_(Bucharest)

(add: the link is playing up. On the page that comes up, click on 'did you mean: Jewish Museum Bucharest' and the right page will be shown.)

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nati...manian_History

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Village_Museum
(A very nice open-air museum).

I am going to Sibiu in May, so I'll post here if I find anything of particular interest.
Sibiu also has an open air museum.
I have been looking into trips to places close to Sibiu and have so far found one possible town that might (or might not) be a little interesting: Cisnadie - only 10 km from Sibiu.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisnădie.

According to my son who has travelled a bit around Romania, the trains are reliable enough but very, very slow. The busses are a bit faster but have no toilets (at least the few routes he tried).

AlicorporateUK

When going to Gdańsk from Wrocław, you can also consider travelling by plane: LO offers several flights (via WAW) at reasonably priced tickets (at times, cheaper than most trains, which take over 5 hours); Kraków to Wrocław I'd go for the train. Also, while in Gdańsk, you could also get to Sopot & Gdynia, which are equally nice places and definitely worth visiting.

G

niehaubs

http://www.autogari.ro/
Is very useful for bus routes in Romania. It has been reliable for me.

Taxis for certain day trips are cheap relative to other country taxi prices. I don't remember the cost, but Brasov to Bran was totally acceptable. I took the bus back for like a 3rd of the taxi price though. If you are going to Brasov and Bran, stop at Rasnov fortress.

pho9187

Thank you helosc, AlicorporateUK, and niehaubs for your advice.

helosc - You are correct that I should stay in Bucharest more than one night. The Tarom flight from Suceava arrives in Bucharest at 7:10 AM, thus giving me a full day of sightseeing, but what if there is a flight delay? I'm not sure where I could cut a day in my itinerary, however, and I did actually want to return to LAX a day later, but there was no award availability at the time I booked. I will keep trying, however, and you gave me a good idea--maybe book my Bucharest hotel for two nights, and try even at the last minute.

AlicoroporateUK - That is excellent advice about flying from Wroclaw to Gdansk. I just checked the schedule, and I can leave very early in the morning, with just a 45 minute stopover in Warsaw, all for just $49! I never would have thought of that. Now that I can use day 8 for Gdansk sightseeing, I can go to Sopot and/or Gdynia for the day on day 9. Can you suggest how I should do it--both in one day, and how do I get around, and what do I do there?

niehaubs - Thank you for the bus route link. How did you arrange your long haul taxi rides? Did you go up to a random driver, and did he set the fare, or did you have to negotiate? Also, helosc mentioned that the buses may not have toilets, which may be an issue for us ladies, did you find that to be the case?


Does anyone have a critique of my Romania itinerary? There is so little information out there--I do want make sure that it is suitable. Thanks.

helosc

Apart from the fact that I like Bucharest and think it is worth more than a day, I was partly thinking of delayed flight (or cancelled flight....) when I suggested one more night in Bucharest.
I also personally prefer minimum 2 nights in each hotel when I travel - it's more relaxed.
I would cut a night from either Sighetu Marmatieir or Suceava but I don't know anything about them or their surroundings so I don't really know if that is an option for you.

I asked my son about his bus trips : He did 3 long ones very recently (around christmas) and he said that the busses either didn't have toilets or used the toilet space for storage so they couldn't be used.

It's very easy to go to Sopot and Gdynia by public transport from Gdansk.
There is a very frequent commuter train - SKM Rapid Urban Railway.
I think you can see both places on the same day - they are on the same line.
I have gone to Gdynia from Gdansk but didn't stop off in Sopot as it was winter when I visited.

AlicorporateUK

Going for the day in Sopot/Gdynia is ideal, since I think you would probably get bored staying there or visiting for 2 consecutive days (unless you're into running: I'm a runner and running in Sopot for me is like running down Venice Beach in LA - I could be out for ages and never get tired). That said, Gdańsk, Sopot & Gdynia are basically attached to each other as they form the so-called Tricity (Trójmiasto, in Polish) metropolitan area. So, my advice is: get a bike and cycle from Gdańsk all the way to Gdynia along the promenade (temperatures are normally quite pleasant in September). Sopot is a sea-side resort and you will certainly enjoy a pit-stop at the pier and a stroll in the busy yet charming Bohaterów Monte Cassino street; once you get to Gdynia, you could visit the Polish Navy Museum & the Aquarium, before hitting the town for something to eat and I can suggest countless places where to enjoy some brunch. You could also perhaps consider the option of being based in Sopot (squeezed in between the other 2 cities) over those couple of days - you would still have a train station handy for your trip to Malbork and get to Gdańsk & Gdynia from there (the Mera Spa hotel is a wonderful hotel in a fantastic location, away from the hustle & bustle of the city centre, yet just a few minutes walk from the pier and the railway station).

G

MichalFKowalik

hey there
first and foremost - really like your itinerary - good job!

An excellent advise - I was born in Gdynia and it would be hard to summarize it better. Now - since you have more time at the coast you might want to:
- go (bike / train) a little further north into Hel Peninsula. Since you're a photographer you will love long beaches, fairly empty in September.
- go (bike / train) a little further West into "Kashubian Switzeralnd" - tons of lakes, hills, forests etc. I'd suggest somewhere between Bytow / Koscierzyna / Kartuzy.

I frequently travel to Wroclaw / Krakow and here are my top spots:
Krakow - list can be 1000 items long:
- Kopiec Kosciuszki - an artificial hill, good city view (if there's no smog)
- Blonia / Cichy Kacik - green part of Krakow, away from traffic and tourists
- Kazimierz - beer bar Omerta (if you're into beers)
- Podgorze - Krako wine bar - best Eastern European wines in one place.

Wroclaw:
- many Jewish cemeteries, one at Krzyki seems to be really picturesque
- hire a small boat to cruise canals - not many people do that. Did my last birthday party this way and even Wroclaw-born guests were amazed what they saw.
- take a long stroll in Grunwald/Biskupin neighborhoods - many parks, ZOO, riverfront, old German buildings. I studied there for one year and that area brings good memories.

Transportation options:
- try to find cheap flights with flights.google.com. Deal you found WROGDN was great
- buses - polskibus.com is your friend.
- restaurants - as in all the other places in the world - wherever people ask you to come in - avoid. Do proper search online, happy to advice from my end as well. While you're quite safe in Wroclaw / Gdansk / Gdynia there are many traps in Sopot and Krakow have many tourist traps.
- taxis - just use uber. While I had many pleasant experiences with TAXIs over past 30+ years, I heard dreadful stories in tourist areas (KRK, GDN). Like everywhere - without knowing local language you might end up paying x5.
- internet - go for PLAY prepaid sim card, available on every corner
- tipping - 10%
- credit card use - accepted almost everywhere, never lose sight of your card though.
- cash - avoid currency exchange booths at airports / train stations. Expensive!

happy to help with any specific topic
best from NZ!
mfk

pho9187

Wow, thank you helosc and AlicorporateUK, again, and thank you MichalFKowalik, I am so impressed with all the great advice.

helosc - I will take a night away from Sighetu Marmatiei, and add it to Bucharest. What exactly do you like best about Bucharest? Does it have nice ambiance? Thanks so much for checking with your son about the toilet situation on the buses--I guess I will be taking trains. I called the Romanian tourist office in New York, and the guy who answered the phone said that trains go north and south, and buses go east and west. I'm not sure if that makes any sense. Please let me know how you enjoy Sibui, either by sending a PM, or posting here. So what towns did your son visit in Romania?

AlicorporateUK - Thank you for setting my itinerary for Gdansk, I am a pretty good bike rider, so as long as there are no cars around, I am going to do it. The Mera Spa Hotel looks quite nice, what a good idea. So how do I get from the airport to the hotel?

MichalFKowalik - Thank you so much for all your detailed information about Poland. I will ask you more questions as I dive into my planning. What do you think of the salt mines near Krakow--is it worth a day trip?


So basically, the Poland portion of my trip seems quite balanced, but I am still fretting about Romania. The most appealing part of Romania, to me, is the little villages, but I am unsure where they are, how to get to them, and what to do once I get there.

AlicorporateUK

No problems at all - happy to help.

To get from the airport to the hotel: the cheapest option is to catch bus 122 towards Sopot Kamienny Potok SKM and then get off at Sopot Ergo Arena (you shouldn't miss it as it's a big oval building on your right hand side, but there will also be led screens inside the bus displaying each single stop); tickets can be bought from the machines just outside the terminal - a one way ticket only costs less than 1 GBP. Once you get off the bus, you basically need to walk towards the arena as if you'd like to go there, then go past it and walk straight until you get on to a main road; walk either along the main road or, even better, along the promenade and you will spot the hotel on your left hand side (if you're walking alongside the beach - there will be an entrance from the promenade). The cheaper, yet still valid alternative, is the Novotel (part of the AccorHotels brand, quite popular here in Europe), which is basically just a few minutes walk from the Mera Spa: I've stayed there several times and, for the price you pay (roughly 35 GBP), it is a great place. If you see Google Maps with the instructions I've just given you, you'll probably find it easier to understand.

G

AlicorporateUK

Dzięki, but you clearly came up with a proper guide/plan for the OP (and, indeed, the Hel Peninsula is stunning)!

Ah - nice! My partner is from Gdynia and we tend to spend loads of time up there, reason of my [limited] expertise about the area

Pozdrawiam

G

helosc

No, I wouldn't say that Bucharest has a nice ambience - rather an interesting one.
It's not high on the list of cities to visit in Europe.
I have visited twice - in 2013 and 2014.
I have to admit that I like most places that I have visited (I travel mostly in Europe) so I am obviously not a very discerning person.
I found Bucharest to be an interesting mix of new and old, east and west, beautiful and ugly - a very contrastive city.
It's a big city, it has some very impressive buildings (and some very ugly concrete ones as well), wide boulevards.
And it does have a lot of museums. I am not a museum person myself but I did enjoy the out-door ethnographic museum.
On trips I tend to walk around different areas of a city and just look at everything, sit outside a cafe or on a bench and observe life around me. So I find most cities to be interesting in one way or another.
I like the hotel I stay at in Bucharest - Hilton Athenee Palace.
I like the restaurant The Artist : http://theartist.ro
Their spoon menu is fun.

My son's itinery was : Targu Mures, train to Miercurea Ciuc, bus to Gheorgheni, bus to Iasi, and bus to Moldova from there.
Mind you, he didn't really go to see tourist sites - he went to visit friends, so his itinery was based on where these friends live.
My son's opinion about small villages in Romania is that they are difficult to get to, devoid of life (no shops, no restaurants...); basically they consist of a dirt road with some houses. My son is 18.
I hope someone here knows of some nice villages that you can visit.

I will post here about Sibiu after my trip in May.

I did want to visit Brasov which is supposed to be a very nice town/city but I am probably not going to do it.
It can be reached from Sibiu by train, the fastes train takes 2 1/2 hours.
So it's certainly possible as a day trip from Sibiu if the long transport time doesn't bother you.

niehaubs

The longest bus route I take is Bucharest to Comanesti, 5 hours. There is no toilet, but it stops half way at a small food shop with a bathroom. You will need some cash to pee. Like 2 lei or something. I can't be sure, but would guess many routes have stops like this. In fact, Brasov to Comanesti also had a potty break stop on a 4 hour route. That's 2 for 2!

Taxi Brasov to Bran I literally just walked up to the driver and asked how much to Bran. I did not negotiate, his price seemed reasonable.

The small villages will have a lower rate of older people speaking English. Most young people are fine though. The people are all nice that I have met. I'm bad at putting myself out there, but I know some people in that town now and stay with them.

I agree with helosc about Bucharest. The Hilton Athenee is great, I always get upgraded as a gold. I tried the Radisson Blu right across the street 2 weeks ago and it was also nice, but I was only there to sleep. From OTP airport take bus 783 for 7-8 lei ($2) to Piata Romana and walk a short distance. The area around the hotel has the expensive shopping with a Gucci store right in the Hilton building. Walking towards the old town is nice, safe, well peopled and lit. The river area is nice, the old town is nice, and museum filled, many churches, crumbling apartments, outdoor dining, etc. It has been called Paris of the East though, so there is something there But then again, the "Paris of the East" wiki lists like 20 cities.

In the Suceava area, go to all the fortified monasteries you can. I stayed in Gura Humorlului in the Casa Humor. Highly recommend. I had a driver through this as part of my package, so I am not sure the taxi/tourist bus options from Suceava/Gura Humorlului area out to the monastaries.

If you are not keen on staying Sighisoara, I'd leave Sibui in the morning, pass through Sighisoara for the day, continue to an overnight in Brasov. Stay in Brasov, with easy day trips to Peles and/or Bran.

Something like:
Day 12: Sibui--see the city. Sleep in Sibui.
Day 13: Transport from Sibui to Sighisoara, See Sighisoara in the afternoon. Continue to sleep in Brasov.
Day 14: Day trip to Peles/Bran Castle. Sleep in Brasov. (Use the rest of the day to see Brasov)
Day 15: Day trip to Peles/Bran Castle. Sleep in Brasov. (Use the rest of the day to see Brasov)

"My son's opinion about small villages in Romania is that they are difficult to get to, devoid of life (no shops, no restaurants...); basically they consist of a dirt road with some houses." - True statement. There are bars and life though because why wouldn't there be? Just not the party making kind of places. Most of the pensiunea have restaurants. That is where the people will be.

Fun story to make this response longer. In October of 2014 I left my Kindle on the bus from Comanesti to Bucharest. Found out the next day when I couldn't find it when packing for my flight. Called the company, found the Kindle, it was driven back up to Comanesti the day after that and retrieved by my friends in that area. I have had it returned to me when I visited this past New Year Eve

I have the Barclay card with the chip and PIN but have never needed to use the PIN, whether out in the stix or in Bucharest.

pho9187

AlicorporateUK - Thank you, yet again, for all the detailed information, this time on airport to hotel logistics. The Mera Spa looks nicer than the Novotel. I often stay in dives when I travel alone, but I think it's time to splurge a bit. And thanks for giving a nod to Hel Penninsula. I was just researching that area, coincidentally, in Lonely Planet, and I noticed that are some interesting fishing villages there.

helosc - Thank you for your thoughts on Bucharest. I too just like to wander sometimes. I have encountered so many people, when travelling, who just march from one museum to another. My son trained me, when we have traveled together, to just walk around, and even visit grocery stores. So your son doesn't like little villages? I guess they're a little too quiet for him. I look forward to hearing about your experience in Sibui, and please let me know what you thought of your hotel.

niehaubs - Thanks for your detailed information about Romania--that's a wonderful story about your getting your Kindle back. I looked up the Casa Humor in the Suceava area, and it is so reasonably priced, and gets great reviews. I think I found my place.

I'm going to keep working on Romania. I have found drivers before from my hotels that are really good, since they want to please the hotel owner. Then hopefully, we can set an itinerary together for the day. In the meantime, I am subscribed to this thread, so if anyone has further suggestions about Romania, please let me know. Thanks.

MichalFKowalik

that's more half-a-day trip and it is worth it. I visited Wieliczka when I was 5 and I really liked it. Try to get a tour in English - there's quite some good trivia about history, legends and numbers.

great to hear, najlepszego
mfk