DiningBuzz! - Sous vide: flavour's fantastic, cooked in plastic




BiziBB
Aug 18, 09, 1:30 am
Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here has the kitchen tech' and the inclination to cook sous vide?

I'm not much of a reader of chef cookbooks, but this is an interesting article for beginners, or anyone interested in where and how this technique has been used, by award-winning top chefs.

I can only think of one person here who might have tried it, so it would be good to know if anyone else has bought (or just tried to use) the gear required.

Cooked in plastic, flavours are fantastic (http://www.smh.com.au/news/entertainment/good-living/tetsuyas-big-secret-revealed/2009/08/17/1250362022673.html?page=fullpage#contentSwap1)[SMH Good Living]
MODERN technology is dramatically changing the restaurant kitchen. Traditional stovetop cooking is no longer an indispensable tool for chefs as they embrace other methods.

The most significant and widely used is known as sous vide, which involves plastic bags and water baths. Unbeknown to most diners, it's been used in Sydney's top restaurants for some time.

The method allows ingredients to ''taste unnaturally like themselves'', according to Mark Best of the three-hatted Marque restaurant, quoting one of his French heroes, chef Pierre Gagnaire.

''It's not an easy concept to get your head around. Many chefs don't get it but once you do get it, you never go back,'' Best says.

In the process, the protein cells of the most delicate fish barely change, leaving its flesh cooked even though it looks raw. The cartilage of the toughest brisket can be melted so it reaches a state of tenderness usually associated with fillet. Even a watermelon can be prepared sous vide to hype its flavour.

Food prepared sous vide (under vacuum, in French) is sealed in plastic. The absence of air lowers its boiling point, allowing proteins to be coagulated at a much lower temperature. Often, the portion will be cooked in a bain marie, where a thermostat maintains the water temperature at levels precise to 0.1 of a degree

...Spanish chefs, led by Ferran Adria of El Bulli restaurant, have created a market for kitchen instruments that would look at home in a laboratory: blast freezers, chrome griddles, water circulators.

...Beyond the city's adventurous top chefs, cooking in a plastic bag is still regarded with suspicion, according to Robert Erskine, who sells high-tech gadgets and equipment for Spanish company International Cooking. Erskine says they are not yet snapping up the thermostat, vacuum sealer and water circulator needed to cook sous vide.


ralfp
Aug 18, 09, 1:57 am
Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here has the kitchen tech' and the inclination to cook sous vide?

I'm not much of a reader of chef cookbooks, but this is an interesting article for beginners

Interesting? Maintaining a vacuum using plastic bags is a revolutionary achievement; it changes the laws of thermodynamics.

The contents of the bag are not under vacuum; they are devoid (for all intents and purposes, and also for all intensive purposes) of oxygen. For what it's worth, this technique is probably (AFAIK) illegal, or at least legally tantamount to serving uncooked food, in many parts of the US.

luxury
Aug 18, 09, 2:21 am
I enjoy this cooking style quite a lot in restaurants but I do not try it at home (mainly due to equipment and know-how). It is gaining popularity as I have started to notice it at more and more North American restaurants.


violist
Aug 18, 09, 7:18 am
Why would serving tantamount to uncooked food be illegal?

kaka
Aug 18, 09, 8:25 am
Why would serving tantamount to uncooked food be illegal?

walking a dog (in some areas) is illegal anyway, so who knows:confused:

ralfp
Aug 18, 09, 10:29 am
Why would serving tantamount to uncooked food be illegal?

Food safety laws often require temps above some set value (e.g. 135F).

http://www.chow.com/stories/10145

LapLap
Aug 18, 09, 11:12 am
Years ago I read about people who used their dishwashers to cook food with "boil in the bag" techniques.

Just looked it up and there are people who are still doing this:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/594532

I've never had a dishwasher so have never tried it.

But I'm not that attracted to the idea of long drawn out extended cooking times for food encased in plastic (the dishwasher would provide a crude 'express' alternative to modern sous vide cooking). Even if the containers/pouches are free of Bisphenol-A, some other plastic related nasty will end up being discovered and condemned instead. And that's besides the usual botulism related concerns. I never buy pre-packaged ready meals and very rarely use a microwave.

I guess I'm just not attracted to the marvels of sous vide cooking. Tampering with watermelon so that its flesh becomes the consistency of meat seems like gilding the lily to me. A fresh slice of perfectly ripe watermelon, perhaps with a few pinched flakes of Maldon sea salt, is my idea of gourmet heaven.

I'm more of a Barbie girl myself, can't beat a flame cooked meal! :)

falconea
Aug 18, 09, 5:49 pm
I have the necessary vacuum gear, but I've never tried it and never will - you have to have the correct heating gear to make it safely. Cooking is at temps very close to the growth range of bacteria and you have to have both the training and the equipment to maintain a safe temperature.

Audrey

BiziBB
Aug 18, 09, 5:51 pm
As long as we're not running international award-winning restuarant kitchens, then we probably don't need to worry!

I was more interested in the prospect of a modern, electronically controlled (to the nth degree) spin to the slow-cooked winter warmer dishes, with a world's best twist. :p

Kind of the opposite of the barbie girl cooking style! :D The high-tech, plastic fantastic slow cooker sous vide. :) The hard work aspect of this style may not take off domestically; we can save it for our occasional fine dining specials.

Thanks for your replies. ^ Thanks for the reference, LapLap! Perhaps best left to professionals and not inadvertently poison ourselves, or worse, Audrey. ;)

Braindrain
Aug 18, 09, 7:33 pm
Used to be a higher-end cuisine place, close to where I live, that would package and sell everything to be cooked sous-vide. Tous les plats étaient delicieux.

jakuda
Aug 18, 09, 9:16 pm
Food safety laws often require temps above some set value (e.g. 135F).

http://www.chow.com/stories/10145

There is a big difference in microbial survival between cooking something briefly (so the center is) at 135-140 degrees and cooking something a long time at 135-140 degrees.

Alpha
Aug 18, 09, 9:25 pm
Always wanted to try it. Anyone who's ever worked in a restaurant kitchen knows they aren't any less devoid of bacteria than a home kitchen. In any event, the pro vacuum sealer has always been the big cost impediment for me. A good circulating water bath can be had from a scientific supply company. Then you'd be off to the races.

Gaucho100K
Aug 18, 09, 9:44 pm
Wirelessly posted (Nokia N97 / Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)

This technique is being covered on various Gourmet shows here in EZE as of late... interesting concept.



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