Spain/Portugal/Gibraltar - 6 days/7 nights in Spain: how many days to spend in Madrid and Barcelona?




puggle
Jul 25, 09, 2:22 pm
Hi everyone!

I'm planning to go to Spain for a week - landing in Madrid on Monday at 5pm (Delta pushed back our arrival flight and added a layover in Paris) and leaving the following Monday at 11am in early September. I don't really want to spend the entire week in Madrid so we were thinking about splitting up in our time between Barcelona and Madrid. How much time do you think we should spend in each city? Our must-sees are the museums (Prado, Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and maybe the Royal Palace) but other than that, we don't really have much planned.

In Barcelona, our top priority is seeing the Real Madrid and Espanyol game.. we were hoping it would be in Madrid but since it's not, we're planning to spend a few days in Barcelona as well. Besides the art, we'd like to try unique Spanish cuisine and visit historic sites. What would be a good allocation of days in each city? I'm not sure we'll have a lot of time for other daytrips but hopefully I'll go back to Spain one day. I most likely won't be able to go for a long time though so we'd like to do as much as possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated and if anyone knows how to buy tickets for the Real Madrid/Espanyol game at the Estadio Olimpico de Montjuic, that would save me a lot of stress/time translating websites!! Thanks so much!! :)


graraps
Jul 25, 09, 4:33 pm
If you want to have a good look at all the museums, a week is barely enough. Personally, I can see the attractions of BCN, but am rather partial to Madrid. I'd say 4 nights in MAD and 2 in BCN (but get in on a reasonably early flight/train).

dhammer53
Jul 25, 09, 10:39 pm
We spent 5 1/2 days in Madrid a few years back. We took it easy and enjoyed the city. We did 2 half day trips. If you just want to see Madrid, you need a minimum of 3 - 4 full days.

Spend the day in the park if you're there on a Sunday. Lots of activities.


Seat64A
Jul 25, 09, 11:07 pm
Although Barcelona has the sea and the mountain, I prefer Madrid and would spend more time there.

dbuckho
Jul 26, 09, 2:02 am
I am doing two weeks in Spain last week of August/first week of September. Here is my split of the final week between Madrid and Barcelona (about matches up to your 7 days).

Day 1 Arrive Madrid noon (driving from Toledo, where we are the day/night before) -- will have the afternoon and evening/night (which to me is a full day in Madrid considering how late things go in Spain)
Day 2 Madrid
Day 3 Madrid to Barcelona (train leaves 12:30 PM gets in about 3:30 PM)
Day 4 Barcelona
Day 5 Barcelona
Day 6 Barcelona
Day 7 Barcelona and then a 10 PM flight to London

I wish I had more time in Madrid, but even just 2 days there seems time better spent than more days in the other places I am going (as some people and online threads have said skip Madrid all together if you have to choose between Barcelona and Madrid). Also worried about it being really hot there. I could do one more day in Madrid/one less in Barcelona, but everything I read tells me that is the place not to be rushed in.

Still researching my trip and exactly what to do in each city, but given your flight schedule I would recommend Tuesday and Wednesday in Madrid, Thursday train to Barcelona and stay there 3 nights, and then catch an early train back to Madrid on Sunday for another full day there. Basically gives you three days in each city.

Also make sure to check out the Renfe (http://www.renfe.es/) site (Spanish trains) as soon as you lock in your schedule. The online web fares for the MAD-BCN AVE trains can be 1/2 the regular price, but the web fares go quickly.

For the Real Madrid/Espanyol game, most tickets I am buying for events in Spain seem to be on ServiCaixa (http://www.servicaixa.com/nav/en/index.html).

LapLap
Jul 26, 09, 5:15 am
It's been quite a few years since I've been to Madrid during the middle of summer, but I can't imagine it will have changed that much.

Do bear in mind that during the whole of August, Madrid is traditionally a ghost town with many businesses closing for the month and the locals emigrating to the coast or the mountains.

Temperatures can also become unbearable (last time I was there for August the street thermometers were showing 48C)

On the upside, it was this one August visit which I found the easiest for seeing a lot of Art galleries and museums. The roads were practically deserted which meant that taxi rides were fast and economical. And the galleries themselves were air conditioned.

As a time to go sightseeing from the streets, late August/early September would be a horrible period for visiting Madrid.

For this reason alone, I would suggest spending more time in Barcelona than Madrid on your forthcoming visit.

Also, don't underestimate what the volume of people leaving Madrid for August means - at the end of August/beginning of September half the city will be returning to their homes.
Travelling from Madrid to Barcelona will be easy, but if you choose the wrong dates (with Saturdays and particularly Sundays being especially popular) returning from Barcelona could become extremely problematic and potentially expensive. As dbuckho has suggested - lock your ticket from Barcelona to Madrid as soon as you can.

Koby
Jul 26, 09, 3:04 pm
... and if anyone knows how to buy tickets for the Real Madrid/Espanyol game at the Estadio Olimpico de Montjuic, that would save me a lot of stress/time translating websites!!

Espanyol inaugurates a new stadium one of these days. So the game will not be played at the Estadio Olimpico, but at their new stadium at Cornella (outskirts of Barcelona).

In your planning you should plan for at least Saturday (12) night and Sunday (13) afternoon + night in Barcelona, since the game could be played on either day. (The exact time will be announced by the end of August...)
For tickets ServiCaixa is the place to go, as per dbuckho’s post and link. Click on the “sports” link in the header and you will see the RCD Espanyol logo. The tickets are not yet on sale. (I do not know if you’ll be able to find any availability. I imagine that with it being their first official game in the new stadium, and against Real Madrid, it might get difficult.)

Seat64A
Aug 5, 09, 6:46 am
It's been quite a few years since I've been to Madrid during the middle of summer, but I can't imagine it will have changed that much.

Do bear in mind that during the whole of August, Madrid is traditionally a ghost town with many businesses closing for the month and the locals emigrating to the coast or the mountains.

Temperatures can also become unbearable (last time I was there for August the street thermometers were showing 48C)

On the upside, it was this one August visit which I found the easiest for seeing a lot of Art galleries and museums. The roads were practically deserted which meant that taxi rides were fast and economical. And the galleries themselves were air conditioned.

As a time to go sightseeing from the streets, late August/early September would be a horrible period for visiting Madrid.

For this reason alone, I would suggest spending more time in Barcelona than Madrid on your forthcoming visit.

Also, don't underestimate what the volume of people leaving Madrid for August means - at the end of August/beginning of September half the city will be returning to their homes.
Travelling from Madrid to Barcelona will be easy, but if you choose the wrong dates (with Saturdays and particularly Sundays being especially popular) returning from Barcelona could become extremely problematic and potentially expensive. As dbuckho has suggested - lock your ticket from Barcelona to Madrid as soon as you can.

I can't agree with the "ghost town" comment. Yes, traditionally it's been quieter but hardly a "ghost town" and in any case, according to research reported in "20 Minutos", this year fewer Madrid residents will be taking a holiday away from the city.

As far as temperatures are concerned, although response to heat is a personal matter, I do not think Madrid's average summer temperatures are unbearable. Humidity tends to be lower than on the Spanish Mediterranean so 38 Celsius in Madrid feels more comfortable than 33 in, say, Malaga. (By the way, street thermometers are notoriously inaccurate. I doubt if Madrid has ever experienced 48 Celsius; the Spanish record is 50 Celsius and that was in Seville and, I think, over a century ago!)

LapLap
Aug 5, 09, 8:51 am
I doubt if Madrid has ever experienced 48 Celsius; the Spanish record is 50 Celsius and that was in Seville and, I think, over a century ago!)
Scientific thermometers will certainly record the temperature with more accuracy and these are the figures that will be recorded for posterity.

In that case, Berja in Almeria reached 50C in 1978 (Source (http://www.elperiodico.com/default.asp?idpublicacio_PK=46&idioma=CAS&idnoticia_PK=424368&idseccio_PK=1038))

I made a point of saying that the it was the Street thermometers that said 48degrees Celcius. They did, I saw it with my own eyes. Most major cities have heat spots and heat sinks that distort the ambient temperature, so seeing 47 and 48 show on a display isn't that uncommon - I've even seen 50C displayed in Murcia (and so has someone else - http://video.laverdad.es/jpg/9/1/1248421986219.jpg - Here's another link (http://www.laverdad.es/murcia/20080625/region/primera-calor-verano-sube-20080625.html), also from Murcia, to show how the street thermometers differ from the official readings).

When it 'feels' that hot, at the height of the day, any Spanish city will feel like a ghost town.

And if you don't believe me about it being traditional for Madrid to empty out during August just Google "operación salida" for any number of figures during the past couple of decades. Thankfully, the stories about huge numbers of elderly parents being left behind to die when the family clears off to the coast aren't at all substantiated. But we are rather attached to our urban myths in Spain... if you ever meet Ricky Martin, never mention marmalade and dogs to him.

jeff3380
Aug 5, 09, 2:50 pm
barcelona vs madrid? barcelona hands down. well...it depends what you like to do. madrid does have some great museums and a good cosmopolitan city life. barcelona was by far my favourite "big city in spain". i was in madrid for 4 days - i couldnt for the life of me tell you what I did or where I went. I was in barcelona for 4 days, and I can remember most of it. so I take that as having enjoyed barcelona more - but as always YMMV.

barcelona things to do:
- fat tire bike tour (or mike bike tours, i can't remember which of the sister companies is in barcelona).
- sagrada familia
- picasso museum
- park guell
- walk Las Ramblas
- watch out for pickpockets. everywhere. seriously.

restaurant in barcelona - huge lineup every time at the 4 feathers in placa real? (i think - find out where the party hostel "Kabul" is - its in that plaza). fantastic place - great paella. my aunt and uncle went back this year also - still lineups.

for a great cheap place to stay in barcelona (if that's your thing) - there is a fantastic 2 star hotel called "hostal opera" right on Las Ramblas beside, you guessed it, the Opera House. great location!

jeff3380
Aug 5, 09, 2:51 pm
oh ya - there's a high speed train between madrid and barcelona. take that over flying. for SURE.

Seat64A
Aug 5, 09, 3:05 pm
Scientific thermometers will certainly record the temperature with more accuracy and these are the figures that will be recorded for posterity.

In that case, Berja in Almeria reached 50C in 1978 (Source (http://www.elperiodico.com/default.asp?idpublicacio_PK=46&idioma=CAS&idnoticia_PK=424368&idseccio_PK=1038))

I made a point of saying that the it was the Street thermometers that said 48degrees Celcius. They did, I saw it with my own eyes. Most major cities have heat spots and heat sinks that distort the ambient temperature, so seeing 47 and 48 show on a display isn't that uncommon - I've even seen 50C displayed in Murcia (and so has someone else - http://video.laverdad.es/jpg/9/1/1248421986219.jpg - Here's another link (http://www.laverdad.es/murcia/20080625/region/primera-calor-verano-sube-20080625.html), also from Murcia, to show how the street thermometers differ from the official readings).

When it 'feels' that hot, at the height of the day, any Spanish city will feel like a ghost town.

And if you don't believe me about it being traditional for Madrid to empty out during August just Google "operación salida" for any number of figures during the past couple of decades. Thankfully, the stories about huge numbers of elderly parents being left behind to die when the family clears off to the coast aren't at all substantiated. But we are rather attached to our urban myths in Spain... if you ever meet Ricky Martin, never mention marmalade and dogs to him.

"LapLap",

It's not a case of not believing you. I have a home in Spain and travel to Madrid frequently so I'm familiar with it in August and other months of the year, so please don't patronise me!

LapLap
Aug 6, 09, 3:19 am
Seat64A, you did make it sound as if I had merely fabricated my views on Madrid becoming much quieter in August (which I never pretended were about how things were now). My last post was meant to substantiate my claims with some evidence, I am sorry if you felt patronised. (The Ricky Martin comment was an 'in' joke I was hoping you'd be able to share)

What concerns me is that by poopooing the notion of a city wide exodus
I can't agree with the "ghost town" comment. Yes, traditionally it's been quieter but hardly a "ghost town" and in any case, according to research reported in "20 Minutos", this year fewer Madrid residents will be taking a holiday away from the city.
you are not giving any indication to the OP about the very real difficulties of getting tickets for transportation between Madrid and Barcelona or anywhere else on the coast during the peak exodus and return times.

LapLap
Aug 7, 09, 10:04 am
The Financial Crisis really is hitting hard!

As Seat64A has said, Madrid hasn't emptied out this year.

http://www.hispanidad.com/noticia.aspx?ID=130456

But the commentaries and reports just stress what a noticeable change this is to other Augusts in the capital.

puggle
Aug 7, 09, 3:02 pm
Thanks so much for all your suggestions! I've booked a flight to Barcelona on Friday morning and flying back into Madrid on Monday morning to catch a flight home. This will only give me 3 days but I really love museums and I wanted adequate time for the Prado, Reina Sofia, Thyssen, Goya, and Romántico in Madrid. Hopefully, Spanair is reliable because I arrive at 8am and leave for the US at 11:30pm. The weather should be fine.. has anyone had any problems with Spanair airlines? The fare was really cheap so I'm not expecting a lot but being on-time and not canceled are pretty important.

barcelona vs madrid? barcelona hands down. well...it depends what you like to do. madrid does have some great museums and a good cosmopolitan city life. barcelona was by far my favourite "big city in spain". i was in madrid for 4 days - i couldnt for the life of me tell you what I did or where I went. I was in barcelona for 4 days, and I can remember most of it. so I take that as having enjoyed barcelona more - but as always YMMV.

barcelona things to do:
- fat tire bike tour (or mike bike tours, i can't remember which of the sister companies is in barcelona).
- sagrada familia
- picasso museum
- park guell
- walk Las Ramblas
- watch out for pickpockets. everywhere. seriously.

restaurant in barcelona - huge lineup every time at the 4 feathers in placa real? (i think - find out where the party hostel "Kabul" is - its in that plaza). fantastic place - great paella. my aunt and uncle went back this year also - still lineups.

for a great cheap place to stay in barcelona (if that's your thing) - there is a fantastic 2 star hotel called "hostal opera" right on Las Ramblas beside, you guessed it, the Opera House. great location!

I've been trying to research all day for places to stay in Barcelona.. thanks SO much for the recommendation! I wanted someplace transit and tourist-site friendly and that seems to fit the bill perfectly. Also thanks the suggestions of activities.. I haven't planned anything besides museums and occasionally I've read chowhound because art, culture and great eats are our primary goals :) probably in that order. If anyone has any other site or food recommendations, please let me know! I've only read part of Rick Steves and Lonely Planet.. i really need to get onto planning since it's only a month away! :)

Since we'll only be there 3 days.. are there any good tour companies in addition to the fat tire bike tour in Barcelona?? Can they take us to the major sites or should we just go ourselves? Which sites are better done alone and which are adequately covered by the tour?

Madrid seems like most things are in Central Madrid and Puerta del Sol area so could I just traverse by foot/public transportation or should I still take a tour there too? Any lodging recommendations?

Seat64A
Aug 8, 09, 2:50 am
If time is limited, I can recommend the Madrid Vision tours (two routes, but the "Historical Madrid" one the more interesting, in my view).

Their two day pass, at 21 euro, is particularly good value, I think.

If you want to sit on the top deck it might be a good idea to ensure you have a hat as, even in September, the sun can be strong!

Tourist Passes are also good value and can be purchased at all metro station machines. They allow unlimited travel on the metro, buses and Renfe suburban trains within your selected zone. See www.metromadrid.es for more.

P.S. Do try and see the temporary exhibition by Valencian artist Sorolla at the Prado if it's still there when you're in Madrid. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see Sorolla paintings gathered from as far apart as New York, St Louis (Missouri), Valencia and, of course, Madrid itself in one place.

Koby
Aug 8, 09, 3:11 am
I've booked a flight to Barcelona on Friday morning and flying back into Madrid on Monday morning to catch a flight home. This will only give me 3 days but I really love museums and I wanted adequate time for the Prado, Reina Sofia, Thyssen, Goya, and Romántico in Madrid. Hopefully, Spanair is reliable because I arrive at 8am and leave for the US at 11:30pm.

If I understand your planning correctly, you currently have only one day (and no nights) in Madrid. And your one day is a Monday. I hate to disappoint you, but at least the Prado and the Museo Thyssen are closed on Mondays. (I am not sure about the other ones.)

In this Barcelona vs Madrid discussion there is only one reason why I would advise people to spend more time in Madrid: museums. If visiting museums is the main reason for your trip, you should be spending more time in Madrid. Barcelona has some interesting museums, but none of them offer anything close to what you get in Madrid.

Seat64A
Aug 8, 09, 6:15 am
I think the original poster will also be in Madrid before Barcelona.

As far as hotels in Madrid are concerned (and assuming your budget is mid-range), given that you like art I really enjoyed my stay at the Husa Paseo del Arte. It's near the Atocha metro stop, the major art museums (don't forget the new La Caixa Forum, tucked away behind Paseo del Prado and worth a look for the architecture alone). If noise is likely to bother you, ask for a room which is not facing Calle de Atocha.

A bit nearer the centre of things is another hotel I like, the Petit Palace Tres Cruces. On a side street off Gran Via it does not suffer from noise to the same extent as other hotels nearby.

Another one, a bit farther out but a moment away from a metro stop (El Carmen on Line 5) is Rafaelhoteles Las Ventas.

If it's a reasonably priced suite you're looking for, try Confortel "All Suites Madrid", another one right next to a metro stop (Alfonso XIII on Line 4).


I can recommend all four.

puggle
Aug 8, 09, 10:09 am
If I understand your planning correctly, you currently have only one day (and no nights) in Madrid. And your one day is a Monday. I hate to disappoint you, but at least the Prado and the Museo Thyssen are closed on Mondays. (I am not sure about the other ones.)

In this Barcelona vs Madrid discussion there is only one reason why I would advise people to spend more time in Madrid: museums. If visiting museums is the main reason for your trip, you should be spending more time in Madrid. Barcelona has some interesting museums, but none of them offer anything close to what you get in Madrid.

I'll be in Madrid Monday - early Friday morning (7-11) and Barcelona 11-14 (9am Fri - 6am Monday). My flight to the states leave Madrid at 11:30 so I'm praying for no delays.

Hostal Opera in Barcelona is sold out the Saturday we're in Barcelona :( I guess the lodging search continues there as well.. does anyone know any other hotels in convenient locations that are priced for new grads? I think convenience of location is more important than the price point though.. what district or street should i try to stay near? i was thinking about using hotwire or something.. but that could be a terrible idea for my first time there. serves me right for not booking early i suppose.

thanks for the tour recommendations! i will definitely have to include that in the itinerary :)

edit: i used hotwire anyway for madrid and ended up getting melia madrid princesa.. i regret it now :/ hopefully it's still near metros and everything..



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