graraps
Jun 24, 09, 6:51 am
Thought it was about time to write a new TR, since I have only written two (this (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/911632-my-first-longhaul-asias-largest-airline-cz-can-mel-c.html) on China Southern and this (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/803045-low-cost-full-frills-thats-way-i-like-mihin-lanka-y-bkk-cmb.html) on the now defunct Mihin Lanka) in the past three years, so here are my "second impressions" of Korea, its airports, its national airline (I had already been to Korea and flown KE before, so now it was time for a closer look) and a segment op by JL to balance it out.
I have managed to upload pictures quicker than I thought. They're all hyperlinked- I didn't embed them into the post to facilitate its readability.
Preface:
On a massive RTW (part of which was my last TR!), I had 7 days in SEL, but decided that was probably a bit too long for Seoul, so I thought that a domestic sidetrip would be a good idea. Decided to go to Busan (PUS, from “Pusan”, the anglicised name of the city that was officially used by the Koreans until fairly recently- I guess BUS is a code reserved for a certain Air France hub), South Korea's second city (population: 4 million), and not too far from the ancient remains of Gyeongju which I was hoping to visit.
How hard is it to buy a bloody ticket?
As any Flyertalker would do, I ignored the state-of-the-art KTX cross-country train and opted for the Korean Air flights, which would, of course, give an ever so slight boost to my OK+ mileage balance. However, buying the ticket proved to be anything but easy. I was in Madrid before going to Seoul, and all I could find (both on opodo/expedia/etc and the KE office in MAD) was Y-class at around 200 Euros. I wasn't going to pay that, so I said I'd buy the ticket upon arrival in ICN (4 days before my departure to PUS). Buying them at the airport (after managing to find the right counter, which took me a good 15 minutes as ICN is not exactly compact), I paid 190000 won. For fully flexible C!
Paid with my credit card and caught the KE limousine bus into the city...KE would see me again 4 days later.
Flight Number: KE1113. Route: GMP-PUS. Class: Business (“Prestige”)- C. Aircraft type: B739. Seat: 08E.
The Seoul Royal Hotel may be anything but remarkable (in fact, its five-star rating borders on the ridiculous), but at least it offers a complimentary direct coach service to (and also from) both of the airports serving the city. Which helps you save both money (a taxi into ICN can easily run into 6 figures) and hassle (finding where the limo-bus stops and lugging your stuff there, or getting a cab with a boot that won't fit your big suitcase) The shuttle is semi-regular, meaning that there are a couple of earlyish morning departures then nothing until 13:00 or so. However, the 09:00 departure perfectly suits me for the departure of KE1113 at 11:00. After checking out of the hotel, I hopped on the coach which got me to GMP at 09:35. “Sweet”, I thought as I proceeded into the terminal building. Looked around and thought to myself “nice and compact...will be in the lounge in 5 minutes”. Will I bollocks! This is the International terminal, offering passengers a wide array of destinations, namely HND and KIX (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0912.jpg) (no kidding, they didn't even manage to sort out a flight to Itami, the city airport of Osaka)- there may be some flights to China, but they aren't too frequent. So I ask somebody how to get to the Domestic terminal, and am shocked to be told that I need a taxi! I go out and see the terminal across the road, but there is no pedestrian route and I'm carrying too much luggage to start walking on the bloody flyover. So I take a taxi. Which is only the minimum charge, but that doesn't make it any less annoying. Domestic Terminal, here I come!
The Domestic Terminal is slightly more crowded, but not bad at all really. After showing my ticket receipt to the queue-dragon, I head to the Morning Calm check-in queue, which has one person in front of me. Within 5 minutes, priority tags are on my bag, FFP number into the computer, and a boarding pass for 08E in my hands. 8 rows of business class in a domestic mid-morning flight with virtually no connecting passengers? Wow, they must be quite popular. I go through security (very short wait) and head to the lounge. Where's the lounge? Nowhere to be seen. After enquiring with KE ground staff, I am informed that it is landside...back out of security I go!
I am sure many Flyertalkers have been to the excellent KE lounge facilities at ICN, so I had been expecting something similar of Korean Air at their domestic hub. No such luck. See for yourselves (entrance (http://http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0831.jpg), outside view (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0832.jpg), coffee&co. (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0833.jpg)...and they don't even have computers! (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0834.jpg) ) ! I don't really fancy any alcohol this early, but a “dry” lounge? Come on! At least the coffee is decent, and some of the biscuits aren't too bad either. But no substantial snacks, no alcohol (in case you missed it the first time around!), and a rather outdated décor. The terminal feels far more pleasant, with loads of natural light etc. Still, I remain in the lounge, grab a chair and start reading a book My flight is called, and I reclear security and get down to the gate (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0837.jpg) after buying some batteries from the airside convenience store.
Onto the plane, I notice there's a curtain behind the second row...What's that about? I paid C-class and will sit in the back? No, but numbering here starts from 7, so I am only in the second row. The 739 looks immaculate, very clean and it's probably quite new to boot. Seats are proper business class seats in a 2-2 configuration, not the crap that we have to make do with in Europe. I settle into my seat and read an English-language Korean newspaper that seems quite boring, but anyway. Takeoff delayed by 5 minutes or so, we climb over the clouds, soft drinks only are served, no Diet Coke, I get a conventional one. I notice that my seatmate is asleep, and gets this little sticker (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0841.jpg) in case he wants a drink when he wakes up. I also nod off for a few minutes. By the time I wake up, we've already started descent....Busan looks interesting from the sky, and actually is on the ground.
We come out of the plane, down the stairs and walk about 30m to the terminal (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0843.jpg), where my bag is the first to come out on the belt (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0844.jpg). Good job KE!
Busan: Great city, world's best value hotel, shame about the distances and my lack of a car.
The first thing I wanted to do upon arrival was to try and rent a car in order to be able to explore Gyeongju and the area around Busan in general. Driving in Seoul seemed surprisingly orderly and comfortable, so I expected PUS to be a doddle. Which it would have been, had I been able to rent a car! The lady at the car rental desk (there was Avis and a local company, I think I went to the local company) told me that I can't drive without an IDP, so I had to make do with public transport.
Alright, at least the limousine bus goes straight to my hotel and only costs 5,000 won. Half an hour later, I find myself across the road from the Toyoko Inn Busan Juengdong, where I had reserved three nights for the princely sum of 30,000 KRW each. I honestly don't believe I had ever paid less for a hotel at anytime in the past, even the rooms-to-let in 2003 Zakopane were more expensive, so it was with some cautiousness that I approached the tall building. First impressions not so good- sure enough, the lobby is clean, but there is no way they would let me do an early check-in. It's a Japanese-owned chain, most customers are Japanese or Korean, and their English was quite limited. They did hold my luggage- but it was (together with other luggage) kind of in the middle of the lobby, so I remained a bit wary. Decided to leave the hotel and took a walk around Nampo-Dong, which seemed to be buzzing with places to shop and coffee-shops (what a massive difference with China- Koreans love their espresso!), but had the usual problem of bars/hofs (equivalent of pub)/clubs being on floors other than the ground one, therefore no way to assess what is a bona-fide bar, what's a girly joint, and what is a billiards place (or even hidden gambling corner). This discouraged me from actually trying out much of the nightlife.
Anyway, I eventually returned to the hotel, and got into my room. What a pleasant surprise. Yes, it was a bit small. But it had a proper bed (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0851.jpg)(140cm wide), free internet (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0855.jpg) (!), slippers (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0852.jpg), conditioner for your hair (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0856.jpg), an LCD TV (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0853.jpg), an air-conditioning unit, and a great view over the port (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0861.jpg) (it was on 20th floor). Also kettle (including tea) and, as I only found out the morning of my departure, a little Japanese breakfast buffet for all guests! Remember, I was paying 30,000 won - that's less than 17 Euros or $25- per night for all this.
The next couple of days were spent wandering around Busan and enjoying the food (at great prices), though not the nightlife (for the reasons stated above). Great people-watching, lots of pedestrian-friendly areas, some pretty nice beaches that are literally in town! My plan to visit Gyeongju was foiled by a combination of sleeping in (as usual) and the attendant at Busan station (just 10 minutes' walk from my hotel) telling me that I need to either change trains on the way (unlikely I'd manage to get the right station/train/etc- nobody speaks any English, I don't speak any Korean, and it would take a lot of time even if it all went to plan) or depart from another station on a train that takes 2 hours (the express bus takes one, but that would depart from yet another station which I didn't even know how to find). Well, I really liked Busan and now I have a perfectly good excuse to come back- maybe I should stay at the W (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0875.jpg)?!
Flight Number: KE1108. Route: PUS-GMP. Class: Business (“Prestige”)- C. Aircraft type: AB6. Seat: 07H.
After munching on a couple of riceballs at the hotel, I checked out and hopped on the limousine bus to Gimhae International Airport. A quiet and uneventful journey got me there in half an hour (as opposed to the 40-50 minutes quoted on the timetable), and the driver was caring enough to ask whether I was flying domestic or international in order to drop me off to the right terminal (most other pax on the bus seemed to be going to the int'l terminal). Got off and headed for the Morning Calm counter, where the check-in agent offered to move me to KE1108 from my original KE1110. Since it was only 08:40 and the 1108 was at 10, I had plenty of time for a coffee, so I happily accepted. However, the rest of the check-in wasn't as smooth, because the agent insisted that she was not allowed to tag my suitcase to HND and that I'd have to reclaim it at Gimpo and check-it in again (after doing the terminal change dance, of course)...My mild protest was met with apologies (“I am sorry, it is a customs and security rule”) and I was shown the way to the lounge. Landside, of course! OZ have a rather snazzy-looking upstairs lounge (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0895.jpg) (also landside), whereas us poor Skyteam flyers are relegated to the end of a dark red carpet (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0897.jpg) on the edge of the building, where we have to wait for our flight in a small room without so much as a coffee machine (they did have a cafetiere for those who drink the filter stuff). There is a small snack spread (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0902.jpg), but no cheese (and I am having serious withdrawal symptoms by now). I run to an outside coffeeshop for a double espresso, and return to the lounge, where the wi-fi doesn't seem to work and the LAN connection just won't get me on to the Internet. Oh well, I can survive without it for an hour...I guess I can always enjoy the "comfortable surroundings" (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0901.jpg) and the view (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0898.jpg). I had been the only pax in the lounge when I got in, but by the time I left it was pretty full (let's say 20 people out of a max capacity of 35).
Cleared (super-quick) security at 09:45, walked about 5 minutes to the gate and got on the A300 through a jetbridge. The configuration here is 2-2-2, and I am not surprised to find 07H is a bulkhead, and a very comfy seat at that. The cabin is incredibly clean and looks/feels like new, which is great considering this must be an old plane (wikipedia says production lasted till 2007, but I doubt KE would have been interested in purchasing A300s that recently). Prestige Class seems quite full, I guess the price difference is so tiny as to make it worthwhile even for this short segment. A van that seems to belong to a joint-venture between KE and Superman (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0904.jpg) turns up next to the plane for no apparent reason. Just before takeoff, I spot a LH Airbus sitting in the international terminal. I didn't know that they flew here, and I certainly wouldn't have imagined it! We depart about 5 minutes late, and climb to cruising altitude REALLY fast (seatbelt sign was off within 6-7 minutes of takeoff). The FAs do a stellar job of managing to offer drinks and a refill/second round to whoever wanted, however the offering is again quite limited (no apple juice; they did have tomato juice but it tasted funny...probably had added sugar). Cruising is very smooth, Seoul is a bit cloudy but landing is quite rough- you could feel the shock absorber being tested, and I catch myself muttering some expletives directed at the pilot (thankfully not loudly enough to be heard)...Off the jetbridge and onto the baggage reclaim area, where we wait for 15 minutes or so for our stuff to be delivered. Interestingly, there seem to be some KAL Limousine employees collecting baggage, but I can't understand whether that's a pre-arranged transfer service for KE elites/business/ICN connection pax intending to catch a limobus or some lost/leftover luggage that needed to be reunited with its owners. I ask the KE handling person about the terminal switch, and she informs me that there's a free shuttle bus (good job they had told me that on the way out- not!) to be caught from exit 2 (this is the stop (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0907.jpg)- you can see no bus, but there is no shortage of taxis!). At least I don't have to pay for a taxi this time around! The bus picks me and another passenger up, takes us on a little tour of a couple of cargo buildings and the world's biggest Bimbimbap factory (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0908.jpg), and deposits us in front of the international terminal.
Flight Number: KE5707 – op by JAL as JL8832 Route: GMP-HND. Class: Business (“Executive”)- C. Aircraft type: B744, Seat: 16K (Upstairs).
I head for the KAL/JAL check-in...This must be a joint-venture flight and not just a simple codeshare: JL signage is very prominent and even the boarding pass I got has got the JAL and even OW logos. No queue in the Business check-in. I ask for an upstairs window seat, which is given to me with a smile. The agent asks whether I know where the lounge is, I say I don't, and I am given instructions to the (you guessed it) landside facility upstairs. Across the rather nice landside area (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0911.jpg) and into the lounge (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0913.jpg)which again was absolutely nothing special. However, it did have cheese (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0914.jpg) (some mediocre emmental, which however was more than good enough to satisfy my cheese addiction) and wine. The wine was from Chile, Castillo Santa Paulina 2007. I imagine it will never win any wine connoisseur awards, but, in the circumstances, its availability was highly appreciated. There were a couple of fridges with soft drinks and also 3 bottles of spirits: a cognac, a Jack Daniel's and something else that also was not very remarkable. Snack-wise, the range of the offerings was limited, however the croissants filled with tuna and a bit of cheese were very fresh and little short of delicious. At this point, I realised that my FFP number had been entered incorrectly: it was AK######## instead of OK########. I mentioned it to the loungedragons, who seemed a bit confused and kinda defaulted to “we can't do it here”, confronted them with something to the effect of “where can they do it?” and had them make a call which resolved the matter (I know it did, as I've already gotten my miles!).
25 minutes before departure, I left the lounge and started leisurely walking towards security. As anticipated, queues for both security and passport control were minimal, and I found myself near the gate within about 7 minutes. Across the hall from the gate, there was a door with a sign on top of it “VIP Suites”. VIP my arse- this is right where my lounge should be! The massive queue to the plane (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0917.jpg) hides the fact that the jetbridge is double, and the front entrance doesn't have anyone waiting to board. I get on the plane and climb up the stairs to 16K, which is the starboard window of the second (or was it third?) row of seats in the bubble, which is, of course, configured 2-2, with proper cradle seats.
Shortly after being seated, I am offered a toothbrush. Remember, this flight is not even 2 hours long. I graciously accept the offer, and then discover that the seat pocket contained a pair of slippers (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0919.jpg). There is even a little beverage menu! I am struggling to believe this, remember that the flight is barely two hours long, and has few connecting pax!
We take off with a slight delay, hot towels are offered together with aperitives. I request some red wine (Laboure-Roi Cote De Beaune-Villages 2006 (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0922.jpg)). This French wine is good but it's not the one on the menu. In any case, it is far better than the wine not served by a certain French airline (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/air-france-frequence-plus/964535-af-gone-mad-incredibly-sad-state-catering-affaires.html) on a flight of similar length. However, no sparkling water was offered and that annoyed me somewhat (yeah, I know, this was a flight from Korea to Japan and sparkling water isn't that popular in either, but JAL is a large, intercontinental airline after all...).
Lunch comes in a few minutes, and wow it looks fantastic (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0921.jpg)! They actually have a full A4 sheet to describe what each mini-course consists of. I can't be bothered to read it, so start going at it with my chopsticks (as a sidenote, no forks/knives were offered on this flight- not that I minded). To be totally honest, it looked better than it tasted. Its taste wasn't bad, but the incredible presentation had just set too high an expectation for the taste.
By the time I finish the meal and write a couple of lines on the laptop, the pilot comes on the PA and says that we're 35 minutes from landing, at which point I order a cup of Japanese tea, which is promptly brought to my seat. A porcelain cup is brought to me, and I finish drinking my tea just after the pilot has switched on the seatbelt sign. Some very thick clouds await us on approach to Haneda, where we arrive pretty much on time. The Purser announces on the PA: “Executive Class passengers will disembark first. Thank you for your understanding”. We get out through a jetbridge, and onto the immigration queue which is very heavy on Japanese and very light on foreigners- which, I guess, is not surprising, as the cheap won means that a lot of Japanese people visit Korea on shopping trips, especially during weekends.
My bag is the first one to come out at reclaim, and after a quick chat with the Customs guy, I'm landside and on my way to the Monorail...
Conclusion: Good trip, but was GMP worth it?
I would say “not really”. Sure, the queues are minimal, there is not a lot of noise, and airport employees are very friendly. But you can't walk between the terminals, through check-in is problematic, and the lounges are mediocre at best (Hyatt cater the ICN lounges- I guess 7-Eleven must have won the GMP contract!). Probably the best part of it all was arriving in Tokyo as opposed to the other godforsaken place. A nonstop Monorail (470 yen) and a short taxi ride (1100 yen) was all I needed to get to my hotel in Ginza, whereas NRT would have required much more time, money and effort....I don't think I would bother flying GMP-KIX instead of ICN-KIX, and I would definitely not connect PUS (or other domestic)-GMP-KIX if I could help it!
I have managed to upload pictures quicker than I thought. They're all hyperlinked- I didn't embed them into the post to facilitate its readability.
Preface:
On a massive RTW (part of which was my last TR!), I had 7 days in SEL, but decided that was probably a bit too long for Seoul, so I thought that a domestic sidetrip would be a good idea. Decided to go to Busan (PUS, from “Pusan”, the anglicised name of the city that was officially used by the Koreans until fairly recently- I guess BUS is a code reserved for a certain Air France hub), South Korea's second city (population: 4 million), and not too far from the ancient remains of Gyeongju which I was hoping to visit.
How hard is it to buy a bloody ticket?
As any Flyertalker would do, I ignored the state-of-the-art KTX cross-country train and opted for the Korean Air flights, which would, of course, give an ever so slight boost to my OK+ mileage balance. However, buying the ticket proved to be anything but easy. I was in Madrid before going to Seoul, and all I could find (both on opodo/expedia/etc and the KE office in MAD) was Y-class at around 200 Euros. I wasn't going to pay that, so I said I'd buy the ticket upon arrival in ICN (4 days before my departure to PUS). Buying them at the airport (after managing to find the right counter, which took me a good 15 minutes as ICN is not exactly compact), I paid 190000 won. For fully flexible C!
Paid with my credit card and caught the KE limousine bus into the city...KE would see me again 4 days later.
Flight Number: KE1113. Route: GMP-PUS. Class: Business (“Prestige”)- C. Aircraft type: B739. Seat: 08E.
The Seoul Royal Hotel may be anything but remarkable (in fact, its five-star rating borders on the ridiculous), but at least it offers a complimentary direct coach service to (and also from) both of the airports serving the city. Which helps you save both money (a taxi into ICN can easily run into 6 figures) and hassle (finding where the limo-bus stops and lugging your stuff there, or getting a cab with a boot that won't fit your big suitcase) The shuttle is semi-regular, meaning that there are a couple of earlyish morning departures then nothing until 13:00 or so. However, the 09:00 departure perfectly suits me for the departure of KE1113 at 11:00. After checking out of the hotel, I hopped on the coach which got me to GMP at 09:35. “Sweet”, I thought as I proceeded into the terminal building. Looked around and thought to myself “nice and compact...will be in the lounge in 5 minutes”. Will I bollocks! This is the International terminal, offering passengers a wide array of destinations, namely HND and KIX (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0912.jpg) (no kidding, they didn't even manage to sort out a flight to Itami, the city airport of Osaka)- there may be some flights to China, but they aren't too frequent. So I ask somebody how to get to the Domestic terminal, and am shocked to be told that I need a taxi! I go out and see the terminal across the road, but there is no pedestrian route and I'm carrying too much luggage to start walking on the bloody flyover. So I take a taxi. Which is only the minimum charge, but that doesn't make it any less annoying. Domestic Terminal, here I come!
The Domestic Terminal is slightly more crowded, but not bad at all really. After showing my ticket receipt to the queue-dragon, I head to the Morning Calm check-in queue, which has one person in front of me. Within 5 minutes, priority tags are on my bag, FFP number into the computer, and a boarding pass for 08E in my hands. 8 rows of business class in a domestic mid-morning flight with virtually no connecting passengers? Wow, they must be quite popular. I go through security (very short wait) and head to the lounge. Where's the lounge? Nowhere to be seen. After enquiring with KE ground staff, I am informed that it is landside...back out of security I go!
I am sure many Flyertalkers have been to the excellent KE lounge facilities at ICN, so I had been expecting something similar of Korean Air at their domestic hub. No such luck. See for yourselves (entrance (http://http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0831.jpg), outside view (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0832.jpg), coffee&co. (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0833.jpg)...and they don't even have computers! (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0834.jpg) ) ! I don't really fancy any alcohol this early, but a “dry” lounge? Come on! At least the coffee is decent, and some of the biscuits aren't too bad either. But no substantial snacks, no alcohol (in case you missed it the first time around!), and a rather outdated décor. The terminal feels far more pleasant, with loads of natural light etc. Still, I remain in the lounge, grab a chair and start reading a book My flight is called, and I reclear security and get down to the gate (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0837.jpg) after buying some batteries from the airside convenience store.
Onto the plane, I notice there's a curtain behind the second row...What's that about? I paid C-class and will sit in the back? No, but numbering here starts from 7, so I am only in the second row. The 739 looks immaculate, very clean and it's probably quite new to boot. Seats are proper business class seats in a 2-2 configuration, not the crap that we have to make do with in Europe. I settle into my seat and read an English-language Korean newspaper that seems quite boring, but anyway. Takeoff delayed by 5 minutes or so, we climb over the clouds, soft drinks only are served, no Diet Coke, I get a conventional one. I notice that my seatmate is asleep, and gets this little sticker (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0841.jpg) in case he wants a drink when he wakes up. I also nod off for a few minutes. By the time I wake up, we've already started descent....Busan looks interesting from the sky, and actually is on the ground.
We come out of the plane, down the stairs and walk about 30m to the terminal (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0843.jpg), where my bag is the first to come out on the belt (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0844.jpg). Good job KE!
Busan: Great city, world's best value hotel, shame about the distances and my lack of a car.
The first thing I wanted to do upon arrival was to try and rent a car in order to be able to explore Gyeongju and the area around Busan in general. Driving in Seoul seemed surprisingly orderly and comfortable, so I expected PUS to be a doddle. Which it would have been, had I been able to rent a car! The lady at the car rental desk (there was Avis and a local company, I think I went to the local company) told me that I can't drive without an IDP, so I had to make do with public transport.
Alright, at least the limousine bus goes straight to my hotel and only costs 5,000 won. Half an hour later, I find myself across the road from the Toyoko Inn Busan Juengdong, where I had reserved three nights for the princely sum of 30,000 KRW each. I honestly don't believe I had ever paid less for a hotel at anytime in the past, even the rooms-to-let in 2003 Zakopane were more expensive, so it was with some cautiousness that I approached the tall building. First impressions not so good- sure enough, the lobby is clean, but there is no way they would let me do an early check-in. It's a Japanese-owned chain, most customers are Japanese or Korean, and their English was quite limited. They did hold my luggage- but it was (together with other luggage) kind of in the middle of the lobby, so I remained a bit wary. Decided to leave the hotel and took a walk around Nampo-Dong, which seemed to be buzzing with places to shop and coffee-shops (what a massive difference with China- Koreans love their espresso!), but had the usual problem of bars/hofs (equivalent of pub)/clubs being on floors other than the ground one, therefore no way to assess what is a bona-fide bar, what's a girly joint, and what is a billiards place (or even hidden gambling corner). This discouraged me from actually trying out much of the nightlife.
Anyway, I eventually returned to the hotel, and got into my room. What a pleasant surprise. Yes, it was a bit small. But it had a proper bed (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0851.jpg)(140cm wide), free internet (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0855.jpg) (!), slippers (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0852.jpg), conditioner for your hair (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0856.jpg), an LCD TV (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0853.jpg), an air-conditioning unit, and a great view over the port (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0861.jpg) (it was on 20th floor). Also kettle (including tea) and, as I only found out the morning of my departure, a little Japanese breakfast buffet for all guests! Remember, I was paying 30,000 won - that's less than 17 Euros or $25- per night for all this.
The next couple of days were spent wandering around Busan and enjoying the food (at great prices), though not the nightlife (for the reasons stated above). Great people-watching, lots of pedestrian-friendly areas, some pretty nice beaches that are literally in town! My plan to visit Gyeongju was foiled by a combination of sleeping in (as usual) and the attendant at Busan station (just 10 minutes' walk from my hotel) telling me that I need to either change trains on the way (unlikely I'd manage to get the right station/train/etc- nobody speaks any English, I don't speak any Korean, and it would take a lot of time even if it all went to plan) or depart from another station on a train that takes 2 hours (the express bus takes one, but that would depart from yet another station which I didn't even know how to find). Well, I really liked Busan and now I have a perfectly good excuse to come back- maybe I should stay at the W (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0875.jpg)?!
Flight Number: KE1108. Route: PUS-GMP. Class: Business (“Prestige”)- C. Aircraft type: AB6. Seat: 07H.
After munching on a couple of riceballs at the hotel, I checked out and hopped on the limousine bus to Gimhae International Airport. A quiet and uneventful journey got me there in half an hour (as opposed to the 40-50 minutes quoted on the timetable), and the driver was caring enough to ask whether I was flying domestic or international in order to drop me off to the right terminal (most other pax on the bus seemed to be going to the int'l terminal). Got off and headed for the Morning Calm counter, where the check-in agent offered to move me to KE1108 from my original KE1110. Since it was only 08:40 and the 1108 was at 10, I had plenty of time for a coffee, so I happily accepted. However, the rest of the check-in wasn't as smooth, because the agent insisted that she was not allowed to tag my suitcase to HND and that I'd have to reclaim it at Gimpo and check-it in again (after doing the terminal change dance, of course)...My mild protest was met with apologies (“I am sorry, it is a customs and security rule”) and I was shown the way to the lounge. Landside, of course! OZ have a rather snazzy-looking upstairs lounge (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0895.jpg) (also landside), whereas us poor Skyteam flyers are relegated to the end of a dark red carpet (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0897.jpg) on the edge of the building, where we have to wait for our flight in a small room without so much as a coffee machine (they did have a cafetiere for those who drink the filter stuff). There is a small snack spread (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0902.jpg), but no cheese (and I am having serious withdrawal symptoms by now). I run to an outside coffeeshop for a double espresso, and return to the lounge, where the wi-fi doesn't seem to work and the LAN connection just won't get me on to the Internet. Oh well, I can survive without it for an hour...I guess I can always enjoy the "comfortable surroundings" (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0901.jpg) and the view (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0898.jpg). I had been the only pax in the lounge when I got in, but by the time I left it was pretty full (let's say 20 people out of a max capacity of 35).
Cleared (super-quick) security at 09:45, walked about 5 minutes to the gate and got on the A300 through a jetbridge. The configuration here is 2-2-2, and I am not surprised to find 07H is a bulkhead, and a very comfy seat at that. The cabin is incredibly clean and looks/feels like new, which is great considering this must be an old plane (wikipedia says production lasted till 2007, but I doubt KE would have been interested in purchasing A300s that recently). Prestige Class seems quite full, I guess the price difference is so tiny as to make it worthwhile even for this short segment. A van that seems to belong to a joint-venture between KE and Superman (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0904.jpg) turns up next to the plane for no apparent reason. Just before takeoff, I spot a LH Airbus sitting in the international terminal. I didn't know that they flew here, and I certainly wouldn't have imagined it! We depart about 5 minutes late, and climb to cruising altitude REALLY fast (seatbelt sign was off within 6-7 minutes of takeoff). The FAs do a stellar job of managing to offer drinks and a refill/second round to whoever wanted, however the offering is again quite limited (no apple juice; they did have tomato juice but it tasted funny...probably had added sugar). Cruising is very smooth, Seoul is a bit cloudy but landing is quite rough- you could feel the shock absorber being tested, and I catch myself muttering some expletives directed at the pilot (thankfully not loudly enough to be heard)...Off the jetbridge and onto the baggage reclaim area, where we wait for 15 minutes or so for our stuff to be delivered. Interestingly, there seem to be some KAL Limousine employees collecting baggage, but I can't understand whether that's a pre-arranged transfer service for KE elites/business/ICN connection pax intending to catch a limobus or some lost/leftover luggage that needed to be reunited with its owners. I ask the KE handling person about the terminal switch, and she informs me that there's a free shuttle bus (good job they had told me that on the way out- not!) to be caught from exit 2 (this is the stop (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0907.jpg)- you can see no bus, but there is no shortage of taxis!). At least I don't have to pay for a taxi this time around! The bus picks me and another passenger up, takes us on a little tour of a couple of cargo buildings and the world's biggest Bimbimbap factory (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0908.jpg), and deposits us in front of the international terminal.
Flight Number: KE5707 – op by JAL as JL8832 Route: GMP-HND. Class: Business (“Executive”)- C. Aircraft type: B744, Seat: 16K (Upstairs).
I head for the KAL/JAL check-in...This must be a joint-venture flight and not just a simple codeshare: JL signage is very prominent and even the boarding pass I got has got the JAL and even OW logos. No queue in the Business check-in. I ask for an upstairs window seat, which is given to me with a smile. The agent asks whether I know where the lounge is, I say I don't, and I am given instructions to the (you guessed it) landside facility upstairs. Across the rather nice landside area (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0911.jpg) and into the lounge (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0913.jpg)which again was absolutely nothing special. However, it did have cheese (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0914.jpg) (some mediocre emmental, which however was more than good enough to satisfy my cheese addiction) and wine. The wine was from Chile, Castillo Santa Paulina 2007. I imagine it will never win any wine connoisseur awards, but, in the circumstances, its availability was highly appreciated. There were a couple of fridges with soft drinks and also 3 bottles of spirits: a cognac, a Jack Daniel's and something else that also was not very remarkable. Snack-wise, the range of the offerings was limited, however the croissants filled with tuna and a bit of cheese were very fresh and little short of delicious. At this point, I realised that my FFP number had been entered incorrectly: it was AK######## instead of OK########. I mentioned it to the loungedragons, who seemed a bit confused and kinda defaulted to “we can't do it here”, confronted them with something to the effect of “where can they do it?” and had them make a call which resolved the matter (I know it did, as I've already gotten my miles!).
25 minutes before departure, I left the lounge and started leisurely walking towards security. As anticipated, queues for both security and passport control were minimal, and I found myself near the gate within about 7 minutes. Across the hall from the gate, there was a door with a sign on top of it “VIP Suites”. VIP my arse- this is right where my lounge should be! The massive queue to the plane (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0917.jpg) hides the fact that the jetbridge is double, and the front entrance doesn't have anyone waiting to board. I get on the plane and climb up the stairs to 16K, which is the starboard window of the second (or was it third?) row of seats in the bubble, which is, of course, configured 2-2, with proper cradle seats.
Shortly after being seated, I am offered a toothbrush. Remember, this flight is not even 2 hours long. I graciously accept the offer, and then discover that the seat pocket contained a pair of slippers (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0919.jpg). There is even a little beverage menu! I am struggling to believe this, remember that the flight is barely two hours long, and has few connecting pax!
We take off with a slight delay, hot towels are offered together with aperitives. I request some red wine (Laboure-Roi Cote De Beaune-Villages 2006 (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0922.jpg)). This French wine is good but it's not the one on the menu. In any case, it is far better than the wine not served by a certain French airline (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/air-france-frequence-plus/964535-af-gone-mad-incredibly-sad-state-catering-affaires.html) on a flight of similar length. However, no sparkling water was offered and that annoyed me somewhat (yeah, I know, this was a flight from Korea to Japan and sparkling water isn't that popular in either, but JAL is a large, intercontinental airline after all...).
Lunch comes in a few minutes, and wow it looks fantastic (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/graraps/tripreport/?action=view¤t=DSCN0921.jpg)! They actually have a full A4 sheet to describe what each mini-course consists of. I can't be bothered to read it, so start going at it with my chopsticks (as a sidenote, no forks/knives were offered on this flight- not that I minded). To be totally honest, it looked better than it tasted. Its taste wasn't bad, but the incredible presentation had just set too high an expectation for the taste.
By the time I finish the meal and write a couple of lines on the laptop, the pilot comes on the PA and says that we're 35 minutes from landing, at which point I order a cup of Japanese tea, which is promptly brought to my seat. A porcelain cup is brought to me, and I finish drinking my tea just after the pilot has switched on the seatbelt sign. Some very thick clouds await us on approach to Haneda, where we arrive pretty much on time. The Purser announces on the PA: “Executive Class passengers will disembark first. Thank you for your understanding”. We get out through a jetbridge, and onto the immigration queue which is very heavy on Japanese and very light on foreigners- which, I guess, is not surprising, as the cheap won means that a lot of Japanese people visit Korea on shopping trips, especially during weekends.
My bag is the first one to come out at reclaim, and after a quick chat with the Customs guy, I'm landside and on my way to the Monorail...
Conclusion: Good trip, but was GMP worth it?
I would say “not really”. Sure, the queues are minimal, there is not a lot of noise, and airport employees are very friendly. But you can't walk between the terminals, through check-in is problematic, and the lounges are mediocre at best (Hyatt cater the ICN lounges- I guess 7-Eleven must have won the GMP contract!). Probably the best part of it all was arriving in Tokyo as opposed to the other godforsaken place. A nonstop Monorail (470 yen) and a short taxi ride (1100 yen) was all I needed to get to my hotel in Ginza, whereas NRT would have required much more time, money and effort....I don't think I would bother flying GMP-KIX instead of ICN-KIX, and I would definitely not connect PUS (or other domestic)-GMP-KIX if I could help it!