Trip Reports - From Vegas to the Depths of Utah's Hidden Slot Canyons (Bryce & Escalante w/pics)




l'etoile
Jun 9, 09, 8:04 pm
So January and June usually mean month-long trips to someplace exotic with l’offspring. But there was a little problem when I began thinking about this year’s summer trip: L’offspring said he would be spending the summer at school playing with monkey pox or pregnant mice that catch colds or something like that.

Well, how about just getting away for a week, I suggested. We’d go someplace close to home to maximize the time, and then I’d head elsewhere the rest of the month.

L’offspring said OK and sent me oh, so subtle suggestions of what he had in mind in the form of full-screen photos of nature scenes – trees, mountains, clear blue skies.

Perfect. I had been wanting to hike slot canyons. This could work out well. We would go to Bryce National Park and Escalante National Monument. There was a new problem when I shared the news with l’offspring: He wasn’t thinking canyons; he was thinking alpine mountains, cold weather. Hiking in the Lofotens, Iceland or northern Canada was more what he had in mind. Red rock, Utah and scrub did not fit the bill. L’offspring was l’off the trip.

I planned it anyway. I would head to Vegas, spend a night a Planet Hollywood, go to Bryce for two nights, to Escalante for four. Then I'd head back to Vegas to recover with dinner at Alex at Wynn and a night in a suite and a massage at Trump.

I planned to leave for Las Vegas on a 1:30 Virgin America flight. I would rent a car from there the next day to head to Utah. Around 12:15 p.m., when I was finally packed, I realized I could rush to the airport and maybe make the flight, or I could run some errands and show up later in the afternoon, so I did that.

In hindsight, I’m not certain flying to Las Vegas late on a Thursday afternoon in early June was the best idea. It was entertaining though. There were the three 20something women who were already dressed for the club scene. Their dresses were so short they couldn’t stow their bags in the overheads or their dresses would reveal a little more of them than they were ready to show. There were several guys going to a bachelor party, though it seemed the party started a while ago in the lounge. Mostly there was just an interesting mix of Glamour “donts”, from sequined baseball caps to tie-dyed bell bottoms and lots of stuff in between.

I dropped my stuff in my suite at Planet Hollywood and headed out for sangria and tapas at Café Ba Ba Reba. The valet thought I was crazy for wanting to walk, and I probably was. The sidewalks were so packed with people it was tough to keep moving. So much for the recession.

I intended to head out about 8 a.m. the next morning, but as 8 turned to 9 and then to 10, I decided time and keeping to schedules were much overrated. The canyons were not going anywhere. I left the hotel at10:30.

I picked up an SUV from a very nice guy at the Avis office downtown at the Four Queens Hotel. I had taken a cab there and he asked why I didn’t call him for a ride. I said I’d called the Chairman’s Club number, but they said this office was too small for a pick up. Next time, he said, call him directly. He promised to give me a ride back to my hotel when I returned. He will also pick up and deliver you to the airport, and his rates are great. I made sure to keep his number.

Before I left Las Vegas for the week, I had to make one important stop. I’d been to the nightclubs, gotten behind the velvet ropes, had my picture in Vegas magazines, but what had eluded me was perhaps Vegas’ most elusive and exclusive spot, known only to the true cognoscenti. A place so secret that there is only a generic sign and an unmarked door. I refer to what is possibly the world’s only vegan donut shop.


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I didn’t get to the shop until 11 a.m. And who was I to think I could waltz in at that hour and still get a donut, especially after finding out it was National Donut Day. Really.

The donut case was practically empty. Where are the vegan donuts, I asked. They are gone, I was told. All that remained were vegan apple fritters. A customer, sitting in the shop probably eating “my” vegan donut, told me the case was usually full, but it being National Donut Day and all… Um, yes, silly me. I would celebrate with a vegan apple fritter. The guy behind the counter told me they open every day at 4 a.m. I could get a vegan donut then. Um, yes. 4 a.m.

As he got me my fritter, I asked the guy at the counter if he puts apple sauce in his donuts to keep them moist. No, he told me. His secret was yeast. This got my mind racing. Wasn’t yeast a living organism? Could something living really be vegan? But wasn’t there bacteria of some sort in all food? Could anything really be vegan? Yes, this trip was already getting deep. Too deep for a superficial girl. Since I’m a vegetarian and not a vegan, I ate my yeast-containing apple fritter without guilt. And with a new sense that perhaps vegans weren’t really occupying a higher moral plane.

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I set the GPS for Bryce and headed off. While still in Nevada, I figured I should stop for wine. I hear Utah only sells wine on the third Wednesday of months with blue moons, between 10 and 10:02 p.m., and for four times what it sells for everywhere else. All along the freeway, seemingly every few miles, was Walmart after Walmart. But I boycott Walmart so I couldn’t go there. Finally, I found a place called “Always”. It was next to a Walmart and may have shared the same space, but it definitely said “Always.” I walked in the door under the “Always” sign. An older man inside said, “Welcome to Walmart.” He must have been confused.

Upon reaching Bryce, the rock began to change. It was orange and there were turret-like formations. It reminded me a bit of Cappadocia in Turkey, only in a different color scheme.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010151-1.jpg

I paid the $25 park entrance fee, and checked into my cabin. I guess they were really four-plexes, but they looked like individual cabins, each with a porch and fireplace. They weren’t fancy, but they were tidy and just steps from the rim of the canyon and the trailheads.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P10101712-1.jpg

I read the park newspaper and found there would be ranger-led full moon hikes each of the next two nights. (Well, I guess one would be a full-moon hike and the other would be the kinda-full-moon hike.) The paper said you had to sign-up the morning before, and that they fill up quickly. I thought about doing that and then realized the trail is right outside my cabin, I could hike in the moonlight on my own, without having to show up and stand in line at the visitor center. So that’s what I did.

Coming up …hiking Bryce.


l'etoile
Jun 10, 09, 8:11 pm
I quickly discovered that a moon-lit hike in a canyon was, well, dark. The shadows from the hoodoos made the trail dark so you couldn’t see it. Full moon or not, a flashlight was required. I only walked a short distance in the dark. A walk under the stars during the new moon would probably be better, such as during the park’s upcoming astronomy festival.

The next morning I figured I’d hit the trail by 7 a.m. to avoid the heat. Little did I know this wasn’t necessary. The canyon walls and formations shade the trails and make for plenty of nice breezes so it never gets very hot, even in the middle of the day ...at least not in early June. (May and early June are good hiking times. July and August bring T-storms and flash floods.)

Bryce is incredibly well cared for. The trails are well-marked and groomed. I wore my hiking boots, but most of the trails could be done in sneakers. Navajo Trail – the upper most trail that is easily accessible – has some of the best sights in the canyon. And it’s only a 1.6-mile loop. Most anyone could do it, but sadly, a tiny fraction of the canyon’s 1.6 million visitors a year ever make it past the rim of the canyon. Most of the people I met out hiking were visiting from France. A good day hike combines Navajo, Peek-A-Boo and the Queen’s Garden trails to form a 6-mile loop.

Photos from Bryce:

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010088-1.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010162-1.jpg
From the Navajo Trail

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P6060016-1.jpg
pronghorn

Bryce has a decent restaurant in the lodge. Prices are a bit steep – about $20-$30 for an entrée – and there are a few vegetarian options. Wine prices are really steep – about a 6x mark-up. There are some locally made beers though that are good and reasonable.


Next … Escalante and hiking some amazing slot canyons

l'etoile
Jun 11, 09, 10:19 am
A sneak peak at Spooky ... a slot canyon that takes a bit of work to get to and a little more work to get through. Anyone with any dimension over 40" around best not attempt. Out of 10 that I know of that attempted it on the day I went, four of us completed it. And superficial girl tip: The sandstone makes a great nail file.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010009.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P10100472.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010049.jpg
This was the exit from Spooky. I know from caving that my body can squish to 6" or less in depth, but I keep staring at this one still wondering how I got out.


Jailer
Jun 11, 09, 6:45 pm
Nice....And I'm right behind you heading for Las Vegas, Bryce, Zion, Cedar Breaks/Brian Head this weekend (I'll tell Mrs. J. that it's an opportunity for her to have her nails done).

We will be eating at Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay instead of the Wynn, but other than that I am mostly walking in your footsteps (OK, maybe no donut). J

l'etoile
Jun 12, 09, 10:49 am
Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument, despite being little traveled, seems to have become a bit of a media darling the last few months. The New York Times did a travel story on it in April – “Southern Utah – The West’s Best Kept Secret”, and National Geographic featured it, complete with a stunning red rock cover photo in March.

The National Monument covers 1.9 million acres. It was an act of Bill Clinton that made the monument, and it is still a highly controversial matter around these parts. I met a man who is active in all sorts of political dealings in town. He fought to keep the area out of federal hands. He says the biggest frustration for many is that ownership of their valuable cattle grazing rights were basically taken away. Now, instead of selling them, they can only pass them on within the family. I had my own views on individuals profiting off of federal lands that appeared to be opposite his, but decided to keep quiet.

The area seems to be quite a dichotomy. Though some tell me the population is mainly Republican Mormons, I find a whole lot of Obama bumper stickers on local cars. Many restaurants are vegetarian friendly, sell wine and beer (including Polygamy Porter – “Because one is never enough”). Coffee also seems to be big here. Bookshelves in stores and inns are filled with works by Edward Abbey. I wonder if there are any Mormon monkey wrenchers.

Where Bryce is all easily laid out for anyone – even the majority of people who don’t get more than 20’ from their cars – Escalante takes a bit of work to figure out. Sure you can drive along 12 and view the vast multi-hued sandstone vistas, but to really experience the Escalante you need a good pair of hiking boots, a good guide or guidebook, lots of water, and at least a slightly adventurous spirit.

Several slot canyons, including the much loved Spooky, are 26 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a dirt road that varies from being smoothly packed to heavily rutted.

At the trailhead there are no signs, only some cairns that were fairly recently put up after many people got lost in the sandy wash. The first canyon is Peek-A-Boo. This one is featured in lots of photos. But it also is frequently wet. I met an athletic skier from Aspen who attempted to do it this time without getting wet and ending up with bloody forearms.

There is another with no name that is a pretty easy walk, as it’s relatively wide. The guidebook I had did say that there is “often a pygmy rattlesnake that lives in the slot. Please give him or her a reasonable berth.” (I went through, but never did see the snake.)

Spooky doesn’t get photographed a whole lot simply because it’s too small to bring in much camera gear – it’s too small to bring in anything. Most people seem to leave even their tiny packs at the entrance. It’s generally a series of tight back-and-forths, no more than about 18” wide. It used to be a little bit bigger, but about 6” of sand washed into it earlier this year, making it tighter. Every now and then there is an area that maybe three people can fit through. This makes it helpful for those who decide to turnback. There are also a couple of areas where it’s helpful to do a chimney climb and one where you do some bouldering. The whole thing takes maybe 45 minutes.

There’s another canyon – Brimstone – further down the wash, but I found it a real pain to get to. The wash is filled with loose sand. I’d rather walk a few miles in 4” heels than slog through loose sand in hiking boots again. The canyon is one of the deeper ones though - probably 50' in depth and had some interesting colors, including blacks and blues, running through it.

While there are highly technical slot canyons that you rappel into, there are also gentle walks along creeks and easy walks to see wild flowers, especially this time of year.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P101005722.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P10100652.jpg

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http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P60800322.jpg

Next more canyons …this time outside Kodachrome State Park.

l'etoile
Jun 16, 09, 6:43 pm
Since I'm not getting around to writing just yet ... a few more canyon photos:

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010029-1.jpg
I'm attached to the other end of the hiking boots in this one.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010032-1.jpg

l'etoile
Jun 19, 09, 10:47 am
The person I learned to cave from (someone who last I knew was mapping caves in Borneo) always said: If you can get into it, you can get out of it. It may take an hour to unwedge yourself, but you will get out. I like to think it’s one of those pearls of wisdom that applies to all aspects of life. It doesn’t, of course. It doesn’t even always apply to caving, but while I’m debating crawling through a small hole or doing some bouldering in Brimstone Canyon, I like to think I can put my trust in it.

Going over this didn't look like the best option...

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P10100542.jpg

So I went under ...
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P10100552.jpg

On my last day of hiking, I went to Round Valley Draw just outside Kodachrome State Park. This one was about a 20-minute walk to the slot entrance and about 90 minutes in each direction (you could keep going on a multi-day hike outside the first slot canyon). It was the longest and, at about 50’-60’ high, deepest of the canyons I went in. While not technical, it also required a bit of bouldering and some dependence on ropes in a few spots.

Round Valley Draw ...

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P6090049.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P6090054.jpg

The exit (for height reference, look for the little person standing at the bottom)...

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P6090147.jpg

By far the nicest place to stay in the area is Kiva Kottage http://www.kivakoffeehouse.com/. This restaurant and two-room inn, sits on a circular piece of property with amazing views of Escalante. The pristine yet cozy rooms have fireplaces and large jetted-tubs.

While Kiva Kottage served up great breakfasts (oatmeal pancakes, vegetable scrambles) with ingredients from its garden, the café inside Escalante Outfitters had the best pizzas. They also had a state-run liquor store inside. One guy came in while I was there and said, "Man, this is the coolest outfitters ever. You even sell alcohol." Georgie’s had good Mexican food, also using ingredients from its organic vegetable garden.

Back to Vegas…

I wound up the trip by heading back to Vegas and checking into Trump (no casino!). I had reservations for dinner at Alex at Wynn and a massage at Trump’s spa.

Dinner at Alex was, unfortunately, rather disappointing. I had a rather sloppily put together seven-course vegetarian tasting menu for $130. While some dishes were wonderful - the fava bean and spinach lasagne with sweet pea emulsion and wild mushrooms - some felt like a thrown together hodge-podge. The roasted purple cauliflower with black truffles, ginger-poached rhubarb and endive marmalade simply didn't work. The flavors didn't coalesce and complement, they stood apart. The first course - a 1" square of thinly sliced watermelon with a few leaves of arugula and a drizzle of balsamic - had a decent flavor, but was so simplistic it belonged as an amuse bouche at a raw foods restaurant, but not on the tasting menu at Alex.
The wine pairings were nice and, at $60 for six glasses, were quite a bargain, especially as the bottles under $400 on the wine list were few.

The massage and spa at Trump were really wonderful. The staff is very attentive and the lounge, with an assortment of hot and cold herbal teas, soft music, and comfy chaises is quite relaxing. It did have a rather odd assortment of reading materials though. After declining the ruby-, sapphire- or emerald-infused oil treatments, I sat in the Trump lounge thumbing through the Tao, with its focus on living simply and humbly and shunning the spotlight, thinking how very odd this picture was. Oh well.

Rejuvenated, I headed to the airport for a far more peaceful flight home on Virgin.

At home, I called l’offspring to give him the number of the spa/resort I would be heading to in British Columbia the following day. “You’re going to Canada? Without me? That’s where I wanted to go.” Oops. I guess I forgot to mention it. Oh well. He probably wouldn’t have liked staying in luxury tent cabins www.rockwatersecretcoveresort.com on the water in a place very reminiscent of the Lofotens anyway. ;) (The tented lodgings at Rockwater are amazing, btw.)

The end.

pshuang
Jun 20, 09, 6:57 pm
Nice, I'm going to have to give a similar itinerary some thought, although I'm quite confident I can't fit through some of the slots that you did....

cheepneezy
Jun 20, 09, 7:35 pm
Great trip report, l'etoile.^ I love that area. And I definitely left a few layers of skin scrambling up and down Spooky.

l'etoile
Jun 20, 09, 11:13 pm
And I definitely left a few layers of skin scrambling up and down Spooky.

Funny you mention that. I don't know that my knees and elbows have been so skinned up since I was in grade school and my mother used to ask me why all the other little girls looked perfect after school, but my recess activities left me with torn tights and skinned knees. :)

TrayflowInUK
Jun 21, 09, 1:27 pm
The colours and light in your photos are wonderful! A "star" of a TR, l'etoile.



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