fairviewroad
Dec 31, 08, 7:10 pm
Amtrak Train 27, the Empire Builder
Scheduled
Depart Grand Forks 4:52 a.m.
Arrive Portland, OR 10:10 a.m. (next day)
Actual
Depart Grand Forks 11:31 a.m.
Arrive Portland, OR 6:35 p.m. (next day)
With Amtrak experiencing severe service disruptions along the Empire Builder route, Mrs. fairviewroad and I diligently checked online for the train status. We saw that the train had departed Chicago 5 hours late. Even though Amtrak optimistically proclaims that "Trains often make up time en route", we knew the chances of the EB making up 5 hours between Chicago and Grand Forks to be nil.
So even though we had a 2 1/2 hour drive plus an international border crossing between us and Grand Forks, we set the alarm for 4:30 (instead of midnight, as we had originally planned). When we awoke, we discovered the train was now predicted to arrive in Grand Forks at 10:00 a.m. We hit the road, breezed through the border at Pembina and arrived at GFR around 7:45. The station was empty, but the agent cheerfully checked our bags and gave us a few recommendations on where to get breakfast. Unlike an airline, which encourages you not to get too far from the gate when your flight is delayed, Amtrak actually suggests you leave the station entirely and come back later. I mean, why not?
We got back around 9:00 and the new departure was officially predicted to be 11:17 a.m., but the station agent said it would surely be closer to 11:30. (He turned out to be right on the nose with his prediction). To pass time I wandered out to the platform:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/grand_forks_platform.sized.jpg
Not much action, but I did notice this helpful sign, for those who may have thought the station was located in the surrounding cornfields:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/grand_forks_sign.sized.jpg
Clearly, other people were checking the train status, because in the hour before the actual departure, about 20 people trickled in. When the Empire Builder finally rolled in, at least 30 people disembarked. We settled into our coach seats for the long ride to Portland.
North Dakota: Miles and Miles of snow, fields, and a gorgeous sunset
From Grand Forks, the Empire Builder heads due west. When we pulled into Minot, we were told we had about 15 minutes while the train was serviced, in case we wanted to get off and wander about. (Translation: "Smoke 'em if you got 'em")
I headed into the station and bought a few vending machines sodas (for less than half the price onboard the train), and snapped a few photos of the majestic looking Superliner equipment:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/minot_platform.sized.jpg
It's not so majestic on the inside, as the cars are clearly showing their age. The lounge car, for instance, bore a plaque with the message "Proudly refurbished by the Beech Grove shops, 1995". So these cars are 13 years beyond their refurbishment. It shows. Still, the Superliner is a comfortable ride, even in coach. The only non-Superliner car on the EB is the baggage car, which appears to be a relic of the 60's. It also appears that the doors don't close the entire way. Look closely behind the crew member at the snow that's built up on the checked bags.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/baggage_car.sized.jpg
Continuing west, we had gained about 30 minutes and were humming along across the prairie. Out the window, we spotted many deer, hawks, and antelope. Coming into Williston, we were treated to a brilliant sunset along the left-hand side of the train:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/Williston_sunset.sized.jpg
But soon after this photo was taken, we came to a halt just shy of the Williston station. The reason? To wait for the eastbound Empire Builder to pass through. However, it was only 5 p.m. and the eastbound train isn't due at Williston until 7:09 p.m. Sure enough, we were waiting on the previous day's train, which was running 22 hours late! Our 6 1/2 hour delay was peanuts by comparison. (Just a few hours later, we were passed by another eastbound Empire Builder, which was running a mere 4 1/2 hours behind schedule.) At any rate, we lost 45 minutes at Williston. From there, we plunged into the Montana night.
Dinner on the Diner
A dining car attendant passed through the train taking dinner reservations. We opted for the final seating, 8:15, so we could eat without being rushed. However, around 7 o'clock an announcement was made that later reservations would be called earlier since the dining car was going to be losing several crew members to the approaching eastbound train. The 7:45 reservations were called at 7:20, and our 8:15 reservation was called at 7:35.
We were seated next to the upper food prep area, which has all the charm and ambiance of a fast food restaurant. After a few minutes a server came to our table and announced in one breathe that "The seafood is trout, the special is turkey, and the pasta is shells", and promptly disappeared for another 10 minutes. I chose the pasta, and Mrs. fairviewroad chose the half-chicken. We were joined at our table by a couple on their way home to Great Falls (departing at Shelby) from a wedding in Minnesota. They shrugged at the lateness of the train. They said late trains are a better option than flying, with limited schedules from Great Falls and fares that are typically very expensive.
Dinner was an odd mixture. On the one hand, our table was covered in spotless linen. On the other hand, we ate with plastic utensils. Mrs. fairviewroad's chicken was served on fine china. My pasta was served on a styrofoam plate. The food was good, but you certainly wouldn't go out of your way for it.
We declined dessert, but soon a delicious piece of pumpkin pie was placed before us and the couple across from us. "It's on Amtrak", said our server. Well, we all know what that's about. And sure enough, a few minutes later we overheard our server showing another server the pie. "I decided to give away this pie for revenue enchancement", he said with a snicker. As much as I appreciated the pie, I don't tip extra for food I didn't order.
We finished eating somewhere near Malta. I read for an hour, then settled in for the night. A dose of Nyquil helped me fall asleep, and I slept soundly--waking up just once or twice. During the night, our train crossed the Rocky Mountains near Glacier Park. At this time of year, the crossing would have been after dark even with an on-time train.
Breakfast: Amtrak lowers the bar, figuratively and literally
Mrs. fairviewroad and I awoke to the grey morning light as the train pulled into Sandpoint, ID. A few flurries were falling, and we appeared to have lost another hour during the night. An announcement was made that the dining car was open for breakfast. After freshening up (a near impossibility in the grungy downstairs coach restrooms), we headed to the dining car. If the train is on time, Portland-bound passengers don't get to eat breakfast in the diner, since the diner is placed on the Seattle section when the train splits in Spokane. But the silver lining on a seriously late train is that we would be able to enjoy a genuine railroad dining car breakfast...something that Amtrak consistently does well. Or not.
We arrived in the diner and were promptly seated. We waited for a server. And waited. And waited. I knew that several crew members were lost to the eastbound train, but why bother opening the diner for breakfast if you can't serve anybody? We tried to flag someone down, and were told "I'll be right with you" or "Just a couple of minutes, I'll be right there."
After 15 minutes, someone brought us coffee. By then, people who had come in after us were already placing their order. It was especially frustrating since we didn't even need the menu. We both knew we wanted "Railroad French Toast", a dining car favorite of mine since childhood. I always order it when I get to have breakfast in the dining car. (Note: If the train had been on time in Grand Forks, or even just a couple of hours late, we could have had breakfast on our first morning on the train.)
After another 5 minutes, the server brought us orange juice, and apologized for not taking our order, but he just had one more thing to do first....
A few minutes later, and the suburbs of Spokane were rolling into view. When our server finally showed up again, I commented that we probably wouldn't have time to eat before arriving in Spokane. Since we were heading to Portland, it wouldn't be a good idea to remain in the Seattle-bound diner for much longer. The server agreed, but suggested he could give us our order in a to-go box. I said no thanks, since we had wanted to eat in the diner. The server apologized again, and offered to refill my coffee before I left. I said sure, but after another 5 minutes and no refill, we just left. Mrs. fairviewroad wondered if we should try to pay for the juice and coffee, but I said Amtrak knew where to find us.
As we gloomily made our way back to our coach, we were stopped short. Apparently Amtrak places a metal bar between the Seattle section and the Portland section of the train. Even though we were not yet in Spokane, it was too late to pass from one section of the train to the next. No announcement was made about this. We asked a crew member how we were supposed to get back to our seats, and he said "no problem, just wait until we arrive in Spokane, exit the train and walk back to the next car."
He spoke as though we'd enjoy the chance to get off the train for a few minutes and enjoy the fresh air. The problem was, the flurries had by then turned into an out and out snowstorm. Of course neither of us had our coats, since why would you need them when walking from the coach to the dining car. We hopped out of the train and trudged down the platform (which had clearly not been shoveled, despite the impending arrival of the only westbound train of the day). This was kind of a lowpoint of our journey.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/spokane_platform.sized.jpg
Of course, the "next car" was the lounge car, and no one opens the door of the lounge car at the station. We continued to the next car, where the door was also closed. However, I tried the handle and the door opened inward. A surprised crew member asked what we were doing, and I said "Well, we're getting on the train, I guess." We headed past her and up the stairs to our seats.
BIRDSTRIKE!, and Amtrak begins to redeem itself
We left Spokane, finally. I appreciate the difficulty of switching engines and cars during a snowstorm. Kudos to the crew for doing it promptly, so we at least did not lose any more time. From Spokane, the Portland section heads southwest through some scenic areas (particularly during a heavy snow) that are normally not seen, since an on-time train would be passing through this area around 3 a.m. Oddly, the engineer seemed to be blaring the horn almost constantly, despite there being virtually no grade crossings in the area. An announcement was made that the engineer was doing this to prevent the horn from freezing. If it froze, we'd have to come to a stop at each crossing so the crew could get out and usher the train through. Well, we certainly didn't want that to happen, so we endured the forlorn whistle.
Winding our way through the hills south of Ritzville, the snow came to a stop and so did the constant horn-blaring. By the time we reached Pasco, the sky was clear and blue.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_sign.sized.jpg
I wandered out to enjoy the sunshine and relatively mild temperatures. The engine told the tale of the recent snow, however:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_engine.sized.jpg
Look at that photo again. Notice anything odd? Direct your glance to the lower left of the photo. Yes, it appears our engine was the final resting place for an unfortunate pheasant. Apparently birdstrikes aren't unique to the airline industry.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_bird.sized.jpg
So, how did Amtrak begin to redeem itself? Shortly before arriving in Pasco, an announcement was made that due to the extreme lateness of the train, Amtrak would be serving everyone on board a free lunch. On arrival in Pasco, it became clear that the free lunch would consist of Subway sandwiches.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_lunch.sized.jpg
Soon after departing Pasco, we were all invited to come up to the lounge car for lunch. We each got a 6-inch sub, chips, and a soda. After everyone was served, we were invited back for seconds. Mrs. fairviewroad and I figured there was a good chance we'd still be on the train at dinnertime, so we grabbed seconds to save for later. A third announcement was made that there were still some chips and soda left, but we passed on the opportunity.
The train lost even more time after Pasco. A "slide detector" went off, meaning we had to creep along for a few miles so the engineer could scan the tracks ahead. Then, a "drag alarm" went off. The train stopped so a crew member could hop off and walk to the front of the train. We did a "run-by", with the crew member kneeling to inspect the undercarriage of the train for dangling objects. I kid you not: It turned out to be an icicle. Of course, in the pre-technology days, neither of these false alarms would have occurred, meaning the train would not have lost the additional 45 minutes they caused. Later, near Wishram, we came to a halt for another 20 minutes while crews ahead repaired a downed power line.
We finally limped into Portland at 6:35, almost 8 1/2 hours late. People connecting to southbound train 11 (Coast Starlight) were told they'd be put in a hotel at Amtrak's expense. Those of us connecting to southbound Cascades corridor service were told there was a Thruway bus waiting for us. So it turned out we actually arrived at our final destination, Salem, only 7 1/2 hours late, since an expected 80 minute layover in Portland shrunk to a 20 minute layover. Someone at Amtrak was really on the ball in arranging for a bus for the connecting passengers.
The end.
Scheduled
Depart Grand Forks 4:52 a.m.
Arrive Portland, OR 10:10 a.m. (next day)
Actual
Depart Grand Forks 11:31 a.m.
Arrive Portland, OR 6:35 p.m. (next day)
With Amtrak experiencing severe service disruptions along the Empire Builder route, Mrs. fairviewroad and I diligently checked online for the train status. We saw that the train had departed Chicago 5 hours late. Even though Amtrak optimistically proclaims that "Trains often make up time en route", we knew the chances of the EB making up 5 hours between Chicago and Grand Forks to be nil.
So even though we had a 2 1/2 hour drive plus an international border crossing between us and Grand Forks, we set the alarm for 4:30 (instead of midnight, as we had originally planned). When we awoke, we discovered the train was now predicted to arrive in Grand Forks at 10:00 a.m. We hit the road, breezed through the border at Pembina and arrived at GFR around 7:45. The station was empty, but the agent cheerfully checked our bags and gave us a few recommendations on where to get breakfast. Unlike an airline, which encourages you not to get too far from the gate when your flight is delayed, Amtrak actually suggests you leave the station entirely and come back later. I mean, why not?
We got back around 9:00 and the new departure was officially predicted to be 11:17 a.m., but the station agent said it would surely be closer to 11:30. (He turned out to be right on the nose with his prediction). To pass time I wandered out to the platform:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/grand_forks_platform.sized.jpg
Not much action, but I did notice this helpful sign, for those who may have thought the station was located in the surrounding cornfields:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/grand_forks_sign.sized.jpg
Clearly, other people were checking the train status, because in the hour before the actual departure, about 20 people trickled in. When the Empire Builder finally rolled in, at least 30 people disembarked. We settled into our coach seats for the long ride to Portland.
North Dakota: Miles and Miles of snow, fields, and a gorgeous sunset
From Grand Forks, the Empire Builder heads due west. When we pulled into Minot, we were told we had about 15 minutes while the train was serviced, in case we wanted to get off and wander about. (Translation: "Smoke 'em if you got 'em")
I headed into the station and bought a few vending machines sodas (for less than half the price onboard the train), and snapped a few photos of the majestic looking Superliner equipment:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/minot_platform.sized.jpg
It's not so majestic on the inside, as the cars are clearly showing their age. The lounge car, for instance, bore a plaque with the message "Proudly refurbished by the Beech Grove shops, 1995". So these cars are 13 years beyond their refurbishment. It shows. Still, the Superliner is a comfortable ride, even in coach. The only non-Superliner car on the EB is the baggage car, which appears to be a relic of the 60's. It also appears that the doors don't close the entire way. Look closely behind the crew member at the snow that's built up on the checked bags.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/baggage_car.sized.jpg
Continuing west, we had gained about 30 minutes and were humming along across the prairie. Out the window, we spotted many deer, hawks, and antelope. Coming into Williston, we were treated to a brilliant sunset along the left-hand side of the train:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/Williston_sunset.sized.jpg
But soon after this photo was taken, we came to a halt just shy of the Williston station. The reason? To wait for the eastbound Empire Builder to pass through. However, it was only 5 p.m. and the eastbound train isn't due at Williston until 7:09 p.m. Sure enough, we were waiting on the previous day's train, which was running 22 hours late! Our 6 1/2 hour delay was peanuts by comparison. (Just a few hours later, we were passed by another eastbound Empire Builder, which was running a mere 4 1/2 hours behind schedule.) At any rate, we lost 45 minutes at Williston. From there, we plunged into the Montana night.
Dinner on the Diner
A dining car attendant passed through the train taking dinner reservations. We opted for the final seating, 8:15, so we could eat without being rushed. However, around 7 o'clock an announcement was made that later reservations would be called earlier since the dining car was going to be losing several crew members to the approaching eastbound train. The 7:45 reservations were called at 7:20, and our 8:15 reservation was called at 7:35.
We were seated next to the upper food prep area, which has all the charm and ambiance of a fast food restaurant. After a few minutes a server came to our table and announced in one breathe that "The seafood is trout, the special is turkey, and the pasta is shells", and promptly disappeared for another 10 minutes. I chose the pasta, and Mrs. fairviewroad chose the half-chicken. We were joined at our table by a couple on their way home to Great Falls (departing at Shelby) from a wedding in Minnesota. They shrugged at the lateness of the train. They said late trains are a better option than flying, with limited schedules from Great Falls and fares that are typically very expensive.
Dinner was an odd mixture. On the one hand, our table was covered in spotless linen. On the other hand, we ate with plastic utensils. Mrs. fairviewroad's chicken was served on fine china. My pasta was served on a styrofoam plate. The food was good, but you certainly wouldn't go out of your way for it.
We declined dessert, but soon a delicious piece of pumpkin pie was placed before us and the couple across from us. "It's on Amtrak", said our server. Well, we all know what that's about. And sure enough, a few minutes later we overheard our server showing another server the pie. "I decided to give away this pie for revenue enchancement", he said with a snicker. As much as I appreciated the pie, I don't tip extra for food I didn't order.
We finished eating somewhere near Malta. I read for an hour, then settled in for the night. A dose of Nyquil helped me fall asleep, and I slept soundly--waking up just once or twice. During the night, our train crossed the Rocky Mountains near Glacier Park. At this time of year, the crossing would have been after dark even with an on-time train.
Breakfast: Amtrak lowers the bar, figuratively and literally
Mrs. fairviewroad and I awoke to the grey morning light as the train pulled into Sandpoint, ID. A few flurries were falling, and we appeared to have lost another hour during the night. An announcement was made that the dining car was open for breakfast. After freshening up (a near impossibility in the grungy downstairs coach restrooms), we headed to the dining car. If the train is on time, Portland-bound passengers don't get to eat breakfast in the diner, since the diner is placed on the Seattle section when the train splits in Spokane. But the silver lining on a seriously late train is that we would be able to enjoy a genuine railroad dining car breakfast...something that Amtrak consistently does well. Or not.
We arrived in the diner and were promptly seated. We waited for a server. And waited. And waited. I knew that several crew members were lost to the eastbound train, but why bother opening the diner for breakfast if you can't serve anybody? We tried to flag someone down, and were told "I'll be right with you" or "Just a couple of minutes, I'll be right there."
After 15 minutes, someone brought us coffee. By then, people who had come in after us were already placing their order. It was especially frustrating since we didn't even need the menu. We both knew we wanted "Railroad French Toast", a dining car favorite of mine since childhood. I always order it when I get to have breakfast in the dining car. (Note: If the train had been on time in Grand Forks, or even just a couple of hours late, we could have had breakfast on our first morning on the train.)
After another 5 minutes, the server brought us orange juice, and apologized for not taking our order, but he just had one more thing to do first....
A few minutes later, and the suburbs of Spokane were rolling into view. When our server finally showed up again, I commented that we probably wouldn't have time to eat before arriving in Spokane. Since we were heading to Portland, it wouldn't be a good idea to remain in the Seattle-bound diner for much longer. The server agreed, but suggested he could give us our order in a to-go box. I said no thanks, since we had wanted to eat in the diner. The server apologized again, and offered to refill my coffee before I left. I said sure, but after another 5 minutes and no refill, we just left. Mrs. fairviewroad wondered if we should try to pay for the juice and coffee, but I said Amtrak knew where to find us.
As we gloomily made our way back to our coach, we were stopped short. Apparently Amtrak places a metal bar between the Seattle section and the Portland section of the train. Even though we were not yet in Spokane, it was too late to pass from one section of the train to the next. No announcement was made about this. We asked a crew member how we were supposed to get back to our seats, and he said "no problem, just wait until we arrive in Spokane, exit the train and walk back to the next car."
He spoke as though we'd enjoy the chance to get off the train for a few minutes and enjoy the fresh air. The problem was, the flurries had by then turned into an out and out snowstorm. Of course neither of us had our coats, since why would you need them when walking from the coach to the dining car. We hopped out of the train and trudged down the platform (which had clearly not been shoveled, despite the impending arrival of the only westbound train of the day). This was kind of a lowpoint of our journey.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/spokane_platform.sized.jpg
Of course, the "next car" was the lounge car, and no one opens the door of the lounge car at the station. We continued to the next car, where the door was also closed. However, I tried the handle and the door opened inward. A surprised crew member asked what we were doing, and I said "Well, we're getting on the train, I guess." We headed past her and up the stairs to our seats.
BIRDSTRIKE!, and Amtrak begins to redeem itself
We left Spokane, finally. I appreciate the difficulty of switching engines and cars during a snowstorm. Kudos to the crew for doing it promptly, so we at least did not lose any more time. From Spokane, the Portland section heads southwest through some scenic areas (particularly during a heavy snow) that are normally not seen, since an on-time train would be passing through this area around 3 a.m. Oddly, the engineer seemed to be blaring the horn almost constantly, despite there being virtually no grade crossings in the area. An announcement was made that the engineer was doing this to prevent the horn from freezing. If it froze, we'd have to come to a stop at each crossing so the crew could get out and usher the train through. Well, we certainly didn't want that to happen, so we endured the forlorn whistle.
Winding our way through the hills south of Ritzville, the snow came to a stop and so did the constant horn-blaring. By the time we reached Pasco, the sky was clear and blue.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_sign.sized.jpg
I wandered out to enjoy the sunshine and relatively mild temperatures. The engine told the tale of the recent snow, however:
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_engine.sized.jpg
Look at that photo again. Notice anything odd? Direct your glance to the lower left of the photo. Yes, it appears our engine was the final resting place for an unfortunate pheasant. Apparently birdstrikes aren't unique to the airline industry.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_bird.sized.jpg
So, how did Amtrak begin to redeem itself? Shortly before arriving in Pasco, an announcement was made that due to the extreme lateness of the train, Amtrak would be serving everyone on board a free lunch. On arrival in Pasco, it became clear that the free lunch would consist of Subway sandwiches.
http://gallery.flyertalk.com/gallery/albums/album59/pasco_lunch.sized.jpg
Soon after departing Pasco, we were all invited to come up to the lounge car for lunch. We each got a 6-inch sub, chips, and a soda. After everyone was served, we were invited back for seconds. Mrs. fairviewroad and I figured there was a good chance we'd still be on the train at dinnertime, so we grabbed seconds to save for later. A third announcement was made that there were still some chips and soda left, but we passed on the opportunity.
The train lost even more time after Pasco. A "slide detector" went off, meaning we had to creep along for a few miles so the engineer could scan the tracks ahead. Then, a "drag alarm" went off. The train stopped so a crew member could hop off and walk to the front of the train. We did a "run-by", with the crew member kneeling to inspect the undercarriage of the train for dangling objects. I kid you not: It turned out to be an icicle. Of course, in the pre-technology days, neither of these false alarms would have occurred, meaning the train would not have lost the additional 45 minutes they caused. Later, near Wishram, we came to a halt for another 20 minutes while crews ahead repaired a downed power line.
We finally limped into Portland at 6:35, almost 8 1/2 hours late. People connecting to southbound train 11 (Coast Starlight) were told they'd be put in a hotel at Amtrak's expense. Those of us connecting to southbound Cascades corridor service were told there was a Thruway bus waiting for us. So it turned out we actually arrived at our final destination, Salem, only 7 1/2 hours late, since an expected 80 minute layover in Portland shrunk to a 20 minute layover. Someone at Amtrak was really on the ball in arranging for a bus for the connecting passengers.
The end.