Mexico - 4 days in Mexico City - a few questions

Have thread though the last 12 months of threads on Mexico - lots of useful info!

I will have four days in Mexico City before a conference and was hoping for some help with planning. I'll be on my own and was thinking of staying in the city on Sunday and Monday, then head to the pyramids on Tuesday. Afterwards I was thinking of heading out of town to spend the last night there.

How is Cuernavaca? Is it worth going there? Is it doable to get there from the temples? I have a flight on Wednesday late afternoon to Mexicali, so I thought I could go from the hotel directly to the airport. If you could recommend another town, especially if it is closer to the temples, that would be great.

If Cuernavaca is worth visiting, then has anyone stayed at las Mananitas?

Can anyone recommend a private driver?

The first two nights I was thinking of staying at the Four Seasons but on Monday night the rate doubles - any recommendations for a cheapish (say $150 max) hotel not too far from the 4S?

As for restaurants, the 4S sent me the list below...anything here that stands out?

* Aguila y Sol – Enjoy the excellent contemporary creations of Martha Chapa Ortiz in a classy venue with an ambience akin to the top restaurants of New York. A 20-minute drive from the hotel, it is a favorite among the who’s who of Mexico City. Smart casual.
* Izote – Contemporary cuisine by well-known Mexican chef Patricia Quintana. Try the Barbacoa-style steamed lamb, or fish in pulque essence. Recommended for lunch or dinner. 20-minute drive.
* Pámpano – An excellent venue which offers traditional cuisine from the coasts of Mexico, bearing a unique contemporary style. * Pujol – Original creations of Mexican chef Enrique Olvera served in a simple but pretty setting. A 10-minute drive from the hotel.
* El Cardenal – Delectable traditional specialties, either at the Historical Center or at the Lomas area.
* El Bajío – The most authentic Mexican dishes, mainly from Veracruz. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (at its Polanco branch). A 20-minute drive but well worth the trip. Very casual.
* Estoril- Who can resist its fried parsley and other traditional offerings? Quiet and simple elegance that has wonderfully resisted the casual trend of the present days. A 15-minute drive from the hotel
* Villa María – Mexican food and live Mariachi music ( Monday to Saturday ). 15-minute drive. Casual.
* Fonda El Refugio – Traditional home-cooking with freshly-made tortillas in a very casual setting. Good service and cuisine. 5-minute drive .
* Hacienda de los Morales – Beautifully-restored 16th century hacienda with a pleasant courtyard and Mexican decor. International and Mexican cuisine, with live trio music at the bar, piano and violins at the main dining room. Jacket required.
THIS IS THE ONLY PLACE I HAVE BEEN TO ON A PREVIOUS ONE-DAY VISIT. IT WAS HORRIBLE - THE SERVICE WAS SO UNFRIENDLY I WALKED OUT!

The last I heard Aguila y Sol had closed down, but it may have reopened (maybe at a different address). I can heartily recommend Izote.
The hip area to eat and hang out is Condesa. The Condesa DF hotel is very stylish if you can afford it (but sometimes has discounts) and there are many good restaurants within walking distance. I'd stay in Condesa over Polanco any day, although there are no chain hotels in that area, which makes it a plus in my book.
The pyramids are open on Mondays. It would be better to visit then, since everything else is closed on Mondays. You would have to come back into town to get anywhere else though. You can get there on a public bus from the northern bus station; or your hotel can book you onto a tour (but you'll also spend a lot of time being taken to souvenir shops).
Cuernavaca is easily doable in a day, but is noisy and polluted and nowhere near as charming as it once was. However, if you are into contemporary Mexican art, the new Muros Museum, housing the Gelman collection, is excellent. It is within walking distance of the La Selva bus station (buses every few minutes from the southern bus station Mexico). There are also buses direct to the airport from Cuernavaca, so you might want to consider returning that way and staying overnight.
I have had drinks at Las Mañanitas, and it is certainly pretty. But word is out that the restaurant is no longer what it was and is trading on its past reputation.
Slightly further afield, and much nicer IMHO, is Puebla. It's a big city but the colonial centre is superb, with some wonderfully ornate baroque churches. I have been there and back in a day by bus, with an early start. Puebla too has direct buses to the airport.

The water gardens of Xochimilco are worth a visit during your stay in Mexico City too.

I also think you should look to Puebla, rather than Cuernavaca, but look at some photos of the two spots and then decide. The food will be better in Puebla. Its also a much bigger city.

As for the restaurants, do not miss El Cardenal. It is excellent. They have two locations, in the Centro Historico, a beautiful spot for a late lunch, or in the Sheraton Historico, off of the lobby. The Sheraton branch is also very pretty, filled with locals and has great food and service. Villa Maria is also very good, if a bit quiet. Outstanding mole (also outstanding mole at Cardenal). Izote is very innovative and Pompano is relatively new, and also has a branch (the original) in NYC. It is mostly seafood and excellent. El Bajio is also great.

You will enjoy the FS, the hotel is terrific. As for a cheaper option, in the first instance I would email the FS and ask if they can do something for you as far as the Monday night rate. Who knows, they may offer you a discount. Alternatively, the Sheraton Historico is actually nice. Have fun.

I also think you should look to Puebla, rather than Cuernavaca, but look at some photos of the two spots and then decide. The food will be better in Puebla. Its also a much bigger city.
Agree, there is a lot more cultural value to Puebla. Cuernavaca may be more relaxing, though, and is closer to Mexico City - but not necessarily to the airport timewise. You would have to traverse the WHOLE city to get to Cuernavaca from Teotihuacan - the entire length of Insurgentes!!

Also, PUE may have LCC flights to MXL or TIJ.

As for the restaurants, do not miss El Cardenal. It is excellent. They have two locations, in the Centro Historico
El Cardenal is excellent, I also highly recommend it. They actually have 3 locations, 2 downtown (one in the Sheraton, one on [Calle] Palma - one block from the Zocalo), and the third in Lomas (on [Avenida de las] Palmas - a bit confusing, I guess). The Lomas branch is always packed, even on Sundays at 1PM, and is not nearly as good as the downtown ones.

+1 on El Cardenal.....best for Sunday brunch but expect a 1 hour wait at the location near El Zocalo.

Yes, I actually ended up having lunch there. It was very good. I was afraid it was going to be touristy, but even though there were plenty of tourists there were also hordes of hungry Mexicans. I really enjoyed it.