Trip Reports - London to Shanghai thru Dubai! Oh, and DXB sucks!




fkarotz
Aug 24, 08, 11:53 am
So, crazily I decided to fly to Shanghai through Dubai, with Emirates. I had heard good things about the airline and Dubai as a transit point, and thought I’d give it a go.

LGW-DXB

The first leg was from Gatwick (North Terminal) to Dubai. The flight was on a new 777-300, which was very comfortable in economy class. The service, food and entertainment was certainly superior to most European and American airlines, although the service was delivered with unsmiling efficiency. The flight was nearly 8 hours, and there was a drinks round, followed by a meal, then a drink before landing, although some people were offered a snack for some reason. A good touch was the hot wet towel offered before takeoff, which is something other airlines like BA only really do in business class I believe.

Arrival at DXB was smooth, and the plane was at the gate quickly. Deplaning was a bit of a scrum, although that has to be expected with any flight into the Middle East or the Gulf. However, I was glad to be seated at the front of economy, because the lines for the transfer checkpoint quickly became very long... Once through into the airport, I quickly realised that my 10-hour layover was not going to be very comfortable. The place was completely packed with people, many of them sleeping all over the place. Furthermore, there are only 3 or 4 toilets, and they were absolutely filthy, very smelly, and very crowded – it was disgusting just to use them, I didn’t want to touch anything as there was urine all over the floor.

So I decided to try a lounge. I had read that the Marhaba lounge can be a good bet when DXB is as hellish as this, so I went to the lounge, but found that a lot of people had had the same idea, and I wasn’t about to pay to sit in a crowded lounge. Back to the terminal, and a tactical retreat to the Safar Restaurant, where EK offers free lunches and breakfasts if you have long layovers (I think it’s for people with layovers of over 6 hours, but don’t quote me on this!). This was quite pleasant, although too soon I had to leave and try and find a sleeping place. I opted for the end of the terminal, and slept on the floor for what were probably the most uncomfortable 3 hours of my life. During this time, the overcrowdedness of DXB really got to me – people sat with their legs dangling over me as I slept, someone spat directly into a bin next to my head (luckily, they had a good aim so they hit the inside of the bin!), and the airport announcements and constant chattering of the security guards and cleaning staff ensured that nobody got any sleep. When, bleary-eyed, I decided to get up at 5am and try the toilets, I was again greeted by a long line of people waiting to use the toilet. The climax came when I tried to wash my hands – no soap – and looked over to find the guy next to me at the washbasin had decided to have a full-body wash. In the washbasin. When I left, he was washing his feet and legs in the damn washbasin. I swore never to touch one of those basins again!

This experience has completely put me off DXB. It is crowded and dirty, and it is very hard to find seating at the best of times. Emirates is a good airline, and the airport looks very modern, but they need less duty free shops and more toilets, less shopkeepers and more cleaners here. Otherwise, it will remain what it is – a packed, crowded sorting-house with some glittering shops thrown in. But then again, some might say that’s what Dubai is anyway...

DXB-PVG

Our EK flight to PVG (Shanghai Pudong) was scheduled to leave at 10.35am, but left around half an hour late. This would not have been much of an issue...the A330m was half-empty, so I had room to spread out. However, it was very hot outside - of course - and the a/c packs were not switched on until after departure. This made the plane a sweaty place to be waiting for 30mins on the tarmac.

Takeoff was smooth, climb was slow. We routed quickly out over the Gulf, towards Pakistan. About 1 hour into the flight, the attendants came round with drinks, followed by a meal. The attendants on this flight were mostly Chinese or of other East and South-East Asian origins and were much nicer than on the London-Dubai flight...at least they smiled. The entertainment system was not ICE like on EK's 773, but you could still catch a movie if need be. There were other drinks rounds too, with the FAs offering orange juice, tomato juice, and water.

Finally, after nearly 9 hours we touched down in PVG. Deplaning was quick due to the few people there. The walk to passport control was about 5 minutes. Passport control took about 2 minutes, and was very efficient. From there, it is a 10 second walk to the baggage hall, where I picked up my bag less than 10 minutes later. I was out and into a taxi within minutes from picking up my bag. Very fast, very efficient, very clean, so very different from the crowded and unpleasant Dubai airport. Will I be flying EK again? Probably. But I sure will try to limit my time in DXB!


twyatt
Aug 24, 08, 12:01 pm
Although I have never been there, the image of DXB that comes to my mind is one of an airport that is very efficient and clean, something like AMS, SIN or HKG. This report sure shatters that image....

sadiqhassan
Aug 24, 08, 12:25 pm
Furthermore, there are only 3 or 4 toilets, and they were absolutely filthy, very smelly, and very crowded – it was disgusting just to use them, I didn’t want to touch anything as there was urine all over the floor.


For the future (I originally posted this in a different thread):



DXB airport
If the washrooms in the terminal are unusable or there is a long line and you really have to go, head up to the international airport hotel. Get out of the elevator and turn left. Walk into the health club and and go straight ahead. You will find an amazingly clean (and barely ever used) washroom

[I have this weird obsession with clean bathrooms, don't ask ]

FWIW, unless you were really unlucky it was probably just water on the floor since Middle Eastern culture is to use water instead of (or in addition to) toilet paper and some people have very bad aim. :)

Cheers,

Cheers,


N145PM
Aug 24, 08, 1:36 pm
FWIW, unless you were really unlucky it was probably just water on the floor since Middle Eastern culture is to use water instead of (or in addition to) toilet paper and some people have very bad aim. :)

Cheers,

Cheers,

WHAAAAAT ??!! So they scoop water out of the toilet bowl to 'clean up' afterwards?

modularmayhem
Aug 24, 08, 1:53 pm
Not to dimiss your experience fkarotz, which is unfortunate, but i doubt any airport in the world would be comfortable for a 10 hour layover.

Especially if you choose to sleep on the floor with your head next to a bin. Airport announcements and people chattering are unavoidable. Why didnt you book a cheap hotel near the airport? It would have been much more comfortable

FWIW ive found DXB to be a pretty decent airport.

PhlyingRPh
Aug 24, 08, 2:09 pm
No. Not quite. Most toilets in muslim households are equipped with something called a sanitary shower (plumbers in the u.s. call it a muslim shower). It is a slim showerhead on the end of a long bendy shower pipe and is hooked up to the water supply. It sits in a receptacle at elbow level on the wall to the right of the toilet (the user's right side). After using the toilet, the sanitary shower is used instead of or in conjunction with toilet paper to cleanse oneself. The placement of the shower to the right of the toilet is important because it facilitates the use of the left hand to perform the task of cleaning, which is essentially an islamic infection control procedure (right hand to eat and greet, left hand to clean).

Most public bathrooms in the middle east are equipped with sanitary showers. In the absence of this device, people will improvise with water bottles or a utensil commonly found throughout much the world called a lotta. Despite it's utilitarian purposr, it is a fairly attractively shaped item with a pot belly and a long bendy spout. I have seen western tourists purchasing these in Pakistan for use as flower pots.

Incidentally, many u.s. school districts are now fitting a few bathrooms in each school with a sanitary shower for children who find using toilet paper alone is unsanitary.

BTW, Kudos to sadiq hassan for finding a workaround to the toilet problem at DXB. ^

CHC Kiwi
Aug 25, 08, 3:30 am
If you were on one ticket through DXB and your layover of 10 hours was forced, you might have qualified for EK STPC.

fkarotz
Sep 2, 08, 8:56 am
Thanks Sadiqhassan for the heads-up on the (clean) airport hotel toilet. Will definitely head there next time I am in DXB in about 2 weeks.

Not to dimiss your experience fkarotz, which is unfortunate, but i doubt any airport in the world would be comfortable for a 10 hour layover.

Especially if you choose to sleep on the floor with your head next to a bin. Airport announcements and people chattering are unavoidable. Why didnt you book a cheap hotel near the airport? It would have been much more comfortable

FWIW ive found DXB to be a pretty decent airport.

I flew through DXB again yesterday, although this time with a 1.5hr layover. Still found it to be pretentious on the outside and not user-friendly on the inside. Not enough toilets or seating. The toilets were, again, crowded and dirty.

FYI, I did not choose to sleep on the floor with my head next to a bin....this was a last minute trip so I had to. Why? Because all the seats at DXB have immovable armrests, which make it impossible to sleep on the seats. That is why, if you transit in DXB, you will ALWAYS see people sleeping on the floor - and at night it looks like a refugee camp.

As for an airport which is comfortable for a 10-hr layover, I have done PVG without any problems (super-clean, toilets everywhere, and free drinkable water fountains everywhere....with free cups), and did not mind HEL when I was there for 6 hours.

If you were on one ticket through DXB and your layover of 10 hours was forced, you might have qualified for EK STPC.

Yeah I tried this, but the EK woman told me that flights originating from London don't qualify for this, only flights from BHX and MAN in the UK.

PresRDC
Sep 2, 08, 9:51 am
There is a transit hotel airside in the terminal, which is designed so that you could avoid exactly waht you went through.

HIDDY
Sep 2, 08, 10:01 am
Must admit I wasn't too enthralled with DXB either on one of my stopovers. It was very busy with lots of bodies sleeping on the floor space behind the seats.
This was a few years ago so not sure if things have improved or not but they could certainly have done with more seating and quiet areas for passengers with long connection times.

sadiqhassan
Sep 2, 08, 1:06 pm
There is a transit hotel airside in the terminal, which is designed so that you could avoid exactly waht you went through.

true, but at something like $20 an hour, I think many people would rather suffer. ;)

Cheers,

couscous
Sep 2, 08, 2:21 pm
Not to dimiss your experience fkarotz, which is unfortunate, but i doubt any airport in the world would be comfortable for a 10 hour layover.

I would not mind waiting ten hours in SIN or AMS...

couscous
Sep 2, 08, 2:24 pm
I have to agree with the comments on DXB. Not a very well thought out airport, dirty and uncomfortable. the crowds are impressive and should become a little lighter with the opening of the new terminal sometimes soon..
Getting to the airport from Dubai is a joke in the evening.. better plan ahead and leave your hotel early.

Mark345
Sep 2, 08, 3:31 pm
WHAAAAAT ??!! So they scoop water out of the toilet bowl to 'clean up' afterwards?

Think bidet

szg
Sep 3, 08, 2:36 am
DXB is always very crowded. If I have a layover, I always stay in hotels near the airport.

This was really a bad experience at DXB.

directorguy_
Sep 3, 08, 5:09 am
Wouldn't the OP be entitled to a room at the Airport Millenium Hotel? Or does the passenger have to be on a 'forced' connection (very unlikely, as I'm almost sure there's a LON arrival closer to the PVG flight than the one fkarotz took).

MilesDependent
Sep 3, 08, 7:48 am
Ahhh.... DXB.... my most hated major airport.

People everywhere, announcements every 20 seconds, disgraceful lounges. It is just a terrible, terrible place (and I have been through 41 of the 50 largest airports in the world at last count).

But, you brought this mess on yourself. As someone pointed out above, a 10 hour transit would be horridbly unpledant no matter how nice the airport.

But to be fair, DXB is operating at something like 200% capacity at the minute. Once T3 opens (surely it can't be that long now) things will be better.

camsean
Sep 7, 08, 1:44 am
I would not mind waiting ten hours in SIN or AMS...

Me either.

The sanitary shower hey? Here in Indonesia, I call it something that translates as the poo hose.:D

civicmon
Sep 7, 08, 5:06 am
No. Not quite. Most toilets in muslim households are equipped with something called a sanitary shower (plumbers in the u.s. call it a muslim shower). It is a slim showerhead on the end of a long bendy shower pipe and is hooked up to the water supply. It sits in a receptacle at elbow level on the wall to the right of the toilet (the user's right side). After using the toilet, the sanitary shower is used instead of or in conjunction with toilet paper to cleanse oneself. The placement of the shower to the right of the toilet is important because it facilitates the use of the left hand to perform the task of cleaning, which is essentially an islamic infection control procedure (right hand to eat and greet, left hand to clean).

interesting.. I was just in BKK and my hotel there had what appeared to be a hose/sprayer that one would find in the sink to clean the sink or dishes with.

I think this solves that. I knew about the left/right hand thing... common practice on the subcontinent as well (but I'm sure you know that).

I wasn't sure what that was for, but then again, when I first saw a bidet, I thought it was a urinal :o

And there are plenty of airports where a 10-hr stop would be alright where one can find a quiet corner to lie comfortable, wifi etc.

HedgeFundFlyer
Sep 9, 08, 5:44 pm
The climax came when I tried to wash my hands – no soap – and looked over to find the guy next to me at the washbasin had decided to have a full-body wash. In the washbasin. When I left, he was washing his feet and legs in the damn washbasin. I swore never to touch one of those basins again!


The man was almost certainly performing ablutions for morning prayers. Not sure what is so objectionable! I hope you are able to take some education out of an otherwise tiring trip.

anaggie
Sep 9, 08, 6:10 pm
Not to dimiss your experience fkarotz, which is unfortunate, but i doubt any airport in the world would be comfortable for a 10 hour layover.

Especially if you choose to sleep on the floor with your head next to a bin. Airport announcements and people chattering are unavoidable. Why didnt you book a cheap hotel near the airport? It would have been much more comfortable

FWIW ive found DXB to be a pretty decent airport.

SIN is an airport where 10hrs would be awesome !!

fkarotz
Sep 14, 08, 4:27 am
The man was almost certainly performing ablutions for morning prayers. Not sure what is so objectionable! I hope you are able to take some education out of an otherwise tiring trip.

I remember very clearly this was AFTER the morning prayer call.

What is so objectionable about a man sticking his feet into the sink at a public bathroom? Well, would you like to be washing your hands while someone next to you strips from his sweaty clothes and sticks his feet in the washbasin next to yours? Would you use that washbasin afterwards?

I think the only education needed here is the kind of education which says that since someone wants to use the washbasin after you, you DO NOT stick your dirty feet into the basin. Being 'considerate', 'polite', or 'civic minded' was perhaps what was needed :rolleyes:

sadiqhassan
Sep 15, 08, 12:31 am
I remember very clearly this was AFTER the morning prayer call.


Prayer times have a window. For example, morning prayers (currently) can be prayed anytime from 0505 to 0645 in New York

Cheers,

jpatokal
Sep 15, 08, 10:31 am
What is so objectionable about a man sticking his feet into the sink at a public bathroom? Well, would you like to be washing your hands while someone next to you strips from his sweaty clothes and sticks his feet in the washbasin next to yours? Would you use that washbasin afterwards?
You're talking about a washbasin in a public toilet here -- I'm sure it's been shaved over, spit into and vomited into more times than you want to know. But since your hands never come into contact with it when washing, what's the problem?

I'd also wager a fairly large sum that DXB has a foot-washing area precisely for doing ablutions somewhere, but designing signage to accommodate the polyglot masses travelling through would be quite a challenge even if they tried...

fkarotz
Sep 15, 08, 12:19 pm
You're talking about a washbasin in a public toilet here -- I'm sure it's been shaved over, spit into and vomited into more times than you want to know. But since your hands never come into contact with it when washing, what's the problem?

The problem is exactly that it's public...i.e. others will have to use it after me so I should keep the facility as clean as possible and use it for its purpose (cleaning hands) and not for the cleaning of other body parts.

Also, I seriously doubt the man was washing for wudu or or ablution. The guy had taken off his shirt and vest and did his armpits too while I was next to him (hard to avoid noticing!). Last time I checked, this is not a required ablution....

Anyways, this is an aviation thread. The bottom line is the toilets were dirty, and remained so throughout the night, and have been on my subsequent visits to DXB.

I'd also wager a fairly large sum that DXB has a foot-washing area precisely for doing ablutions somewhere, but designing signage to accommodate the polyglot masses travelling through would be quite a challenge even if they tried...

Many airports have ablutions areas, some in the prayer rooms themselves, but not sure about DXB.



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