Travel Technology - 110/220 Electronics Keep Blowing Up

So... My apartment has been a bit too exciting lately. I have been trying to set up my home office computer in FRA on 220 which had previously been set up in SEA on 110.

First was the printer AC cord, not the printer itself. My HP printer is supposed to work on both 110 & 220, but a "pop" sound came out of the adapter followed by smoke.

Next was my Modem, bought here in Germany, made for 220, which had been working fine. When I plugged it into the 220 power strip it made an even bigger "pop" and smoked poured out.

Now I'm totally gun shy. I have a transformer but it won't do for all the appliances that need to be attached. Any suggestions on what I should be doing differently?

Maybe the polarity or something else in the socket is wired wrong? Or maybe it's the power bar itself?

Check to se if there's a german equivalent of this:

http://www.nextag.com/Plug-Bug-2-GFCI-538526230/prices-html?nxtg=28a7f0a1c0527-D53333C6868EC901

Most countries that use 220V (240V) use 50Hz. But if your appliance is rated for 120/240V and only 60Hz, it may still blow up. For electronics generally you can use a slightly higher frequency alternating current but not a lower frequency than what the appliance is rated for. (Most 50Hz e.g. European appliances other than analog clocks will work just fine on 60Hz and within the range of rated voltages.)

A few devices require a manual switch setting for 220 vs. 110.

Travel tips: http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/travel.htm

I don't think the 50/60 Hz will make a big difference (if anything, less power is consumed at 50 Hz, e.g. with motors).

However, voltage in Frankfurt is 240 V, not 220 V. That's about 10% more volts or 20% more power than your rating. I never thought this would cause a problem with modern power supplies, but since I've seen the power supply of my new Roomba vacuum cleaner I'm not sure modern power supplies are common in the States. It looks like a contraption from the 80ies.

HTB.

I don't think the 50/60 Hz will make a big difference (if anything, less power is consumed at 50 Hz, e.g. with motors).


Especially since the power is converted to DC for most computer electronics.


However, voltage in Frankfurt is 240 V, not 220 V. That's about 10% more volts or 20% more power than your rating.

I'm looking at my transformers and just about everything that is "dual voltage" will handle 100-2409v, 50-60 Hz. Even a cell phone charger that I just noticed is good for 230v 50 Hz has been working happily on 117v, 60 Hz. Even stranger, some of the 110-120v transformers will take 50-60 Hz.

I don't think the 50/60 Hz will make a big difference (if anything, less power is consumed at 50 Hz, e.g. with motors).

Some solid state devices made for 60 Hz may survive on 50 Hz, but anything with a AC motor is trouble. Printer cooling fan and computer power supply fan come to mind. This is different than the DC run electronics. As YVR Cockroach has noticed, small battery chargers are almost all 110-220 volt and 50/60 cycle. Why? These things are made in China and shipped all over the world. For the tiny extra cost of make it dual, the manufacturer only has to make one model power supply and ship it with every product they make, instead of "this shipment is going to the US, make sure the 110 volt units get packed in these boxes."

Less amps is drawn due to the higher voltage, but if the motor is not built for the lower frequency, and assuming the voltage is correct (selector switch repositioned, or in some cases the motor rewired), a 60 Hz motor will try to pull the same power and the amp draw will be higher on 50 Hz. This can pop the circuit breaker. If the motor does run, it will run hotter, after a while it can get so hot it pops its internal thermal protector if it has one. Worse, most cooling fan motors rely on the air over them for cooling. On 50 Hz most motors will run at 5/6 the speed they do on 60 Hz, resulting in less cooling air flow over the overheating motor and less cooling for the machine. Not good for long life but great for starting fires. :p

I wonder what would happen if you put 220v applicances in a 220v socket with a 110v->220v transformer in between. I doubt it'd be good.

An excellent thread for our Travel Technology forum. Please follow it there. Ocn Vw 1K, Moderator, TravelBuzz.

I wonder what would happen if you put 220v applicances in a 220v socket with a 110v->220v transformer in between. I doubt it'd be good.

You mean a 220v appliance in a 110v socket with a 110-220v transformer inbetween? It'd be o.k. if the transformer is hefty enough to handle it (the wattage requirements) and it can handle the frequency difference (if it matters). Few are. H.K. is one of the places where you can buy these hefty transformers (for tvs, stereos and the like).

It could be the electricity there is running "hot" where there's way more voltage on the line then there should be (or what it's rated at).

Did it work fine plugged into the wall but not the strip? If that's the case, it's probably the strip.

We had that at one place I was at, the lines were running way hot, and they had to put a massive power conditioner in the basement to keep the ATM's from going through a power supply a week.

Did it work fine plugged into the wall but not the strip? If that's the case, it's probably the strip.
This is the case for me. The modem still works but I don't know if I should use it. Smoke did come out so something burned, same with the AC adapter for the printer.

A stupid question but is your power bar a German one or one designed for 220-240 v or a 110-120 v one?

A stupid question but is your power bar a German one or one designed for 220-240 v or a 110-120 v one?

It's a German one.

Looks like your power bar is defective. I imagine the modem and printer themselves are fine, but the power adapters could be iffy. Maybe search for used ones locally.

Even stranger, some of the 110-120v transformers will take 50-60 Hz.

Japan has 50 Hz in some areas and 60 Hz in others. wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_with_mains_power_plugs,_voltages _and_frequencies) has a good article.

Call an electrician pronto. It may be the power-strip, or it may be that the voltage in the apartment (or even just on that outlet!) is spiking. If things aren't blowing up elsewhere in the apartment, definitely replace the power-strip and plug in something cheap and replaceable (cordless phone, aftermarket cellphone charger, etc).

But it's not uncommon for voltage to run quite far above where it should be. I've seen observed instances of 135 volts here in the US when it should be 110. If something else is on that circuit, it may also be causing voltage spikes that can go WAY beyond 240 volts. I must say, the only time I've ever smoked anything in that manner was not checking a charger (Nikon battery charger) that turned out to only be 120v. POOF! Turns out they made two models. One is dual, one ain't. I bought the cheaper one as a spare and left the dual voltage at home. Oops! Now I always ALWAYS look before I plug something in.

It's a German one.

Most likely made in China for a German company. Heap Chinese made power bars are available all over the world. Most of them work just fine. A little more than once a in a while you get a bad one.

But it's not uncommon for voltage to run quite far above where it should be. I've seen observed instances of 135 volts here in the US when it should be 110. If something else is on that circuit, it may also be causing voltage spikes that can go WAY beyond 240 volts.

Similar problem here in Thailand, with the 220v supply running anywhere from 160v to 240v+! Add a noisy signal to the equation and computer components suffer greatly. I've now got Automatic Voltage Regulators (AVRs) on all sockets which supply my PCs and satellite boxes which do a good job of filtering the supply, as well as boosting or stopping-down the voltage so I get a nice clean 220v. Oh, and that's then fed through a UPS because of the daily black-outs during the rainy season!

I blew up my wife's computer power supply here in Germany by forgetting to switch it to 220v. But then I blew up a German power strip that wasn't even on, and then two German irons that are made here. Turns out the apartment we were renting was running hot.

Now I'm afraid to blow up my meter in my new place or plug anything in...

How do I check the polarity of the 220v-to-110v transformers and my 110v appliances that aren't labeled, in order to ensure I don't blow up anything else? Also, does anyone recommend one of these over the other?

1. Using a 220v setting on a dual voltage appliance, like a desktop PC, with an adapter for the German 220vwall socket;
2. Using a 110v setting, plugged into a transformer.

It's a question of which thing you want to do the work of voltage reduction.

Also, does anyone recommend one of these over the other?

1. Using a 220v setting on a dual voltage appliance, like a desktop PC, with an adapter for the German 220vwall socket;
2. Using a 110v setting, plugged into a transformer.

It's a question of which thing you want to do the work of voltage reduction.Without question, I'd choose option #1.

But it's not uncommon for voltage to run quite far above where it should be. I've seen observed instances of 135 volts here in the US when it should be 110.

I just plugged my Kill-A-Watt into the outlet here in Chicago. I'm currently getting 122.5 volts.

Though I think the US nominal voltage is 120 V.

http://www.kropla.com/electric2.htm

If I recall correctly, nominal voltage in the US is listed as 120V +/- 10%. This accounts to normal swings in grid power. Note this is supply to your meter. After voltage drop on heavily loaded circuits to the end receptical, you could be looking at even lower.

We had a misbehaving power transformer feeding our house when we moved in. It took some convincing but the power company finally replaced it (and upsized it as it was near capacity anyway). I'd start with the power company and complain. It sounds like you've either got a high voltage condition, or perhaps frequent spikes.

As others have pointed out, you can install a line conditioner (essentially an active heavy duty transformer) which will stabilize the voltage, pulling up brownouts and pushing down spikes. These are often used in conjunction with a UPS, or as a combination unit. APC (http://www.apc.com)sells both types of units.

However, voltage in Frankfurt is 240 V, not 220 V.

Both are wrong. It used to be 220V in most of mainland Europe and 240V in the UK (and presumably Ireland) but in line with EU harmonisation policies we're all now officially 230V, but with a +/-10% tolerance so nobody actually had to change anything.