Hello. We're traveling June 2-13 in an RV along this circular route. We already checked with Great Alaskan (our RV company) and we can drive the Denali hwy (at 25mph). I hear that weather is better starting in mid-June in Denali. Do you think that's reason to do a counter-clockwise trip, thereby ending in Denali/Talkeetna/ANC? Or is the fact that it'll be less crowded in early June make it better to go there first? (We'll be staying in Teklenika campground inside the park for 3 nights). Any suggestions for places to stay with our RV along the way?
Thank you!
oldpenny16
Feb 8, 08, 8:23 pm
First you need to buy a MILEPOST at www.milepost.com so you will have all the information you need. It is the ultimate guide to Alaska. Don't buy a used one somewhere. They have a package price on getting the 2007 edition right now and the 2008 when it comes out March 1, 2008.
You are going at peak season. You will have to deal with traffic.
In my own humble opinion it doesn't matter which way you go at that time.
Do you know that you are only allowed to drive a few miles into Denali National Park? No one is allowed to drive in past a particular point. The MILEPOST will explain all that.
Order your MILEPOST right now!
owl
Feb 8, 08, 11:04 pm
Okay, we're doing clockwise. It makes sense with the ferry schedule/availability. thank you!
akdude
Feb 9, 08, 9:01 am
I think you should do the complete circle route,up the Glenn hwy and back down the Park's hwy.
BOB W
Feb 9, 08, 9:06 am
I think you should do the complete circle route,up the Glenn hwy and back down the Park's hwy.
I agree. Up to Denali & on to Fairbanks then down to Glenallen. Beautiful drive but expect some rough roads. The Milepost is a good idea.
Gardyloo
Feb 9, 08, 9:18 am
If you're using the Denali Hwy (have to giggle at "limited to 25 mph" - as if going 40 is an option :rolleyes:) I'd go whichever way that gives the State as much time as possible to fix the road. Otherwise it can be pothole and standing water city, and in an RV going off-road (onto the shoulders or shrubbery) to avoid impediments in the road is not especially easy.
The Denali is scenic enough, but frankly I don't think it's that big a deal, given the slowness and condition of the road. I'd use the time to stay on the pavement, and you'll probably have time to see more things in more scenic areas, like down toward Valdez.
As I mentioned on Fodors, though, a big variable will be your ability to book space for humans and vehicle on the ferry Valdez < > Whittier.
akdude
Feb 9, 08, 9:24 am
I've got to tell you I hadn't been on the Parks in twenty odd years before I headed up to Denali the first week of last Sept and I think the Highway is awesome now,they've taken a lot of the nasty curves out, its a great drive now.
HRHMom
Feb 9, 08, 9:53 am
I think you will be fine going either direction, sounds like a great trip. It may be a bit warmer and you may get more wildflowers in Denali later rather than earlier, I think that would be the only significant difference.
I was once snowed on in early June on the Denali Highway, for what that is worth. Slushy, and it melted quickly, but it made for some messy road.
Teklanika campground is absolutely wonderful, we go annually, just be sure to leave yourself lots of time, the road is gravel and narrow in many places and very slow going - but slow going is best because you see the most wildlife. If you can, time your drive in for late evening for that purpose. I think the campsites that back onto the river are best. There have been wolf problems in that campground for several years but last year it was resolved enough that they even let tent campers back in. Be sure to get on the park bus and take the tour all the way into Wonder Lake one day you are there.
And I always feel a stop of at least a day in Talkeetna is a must. I normally do not like to camp in towns, but last year for July 4 we stayed at the Talkeetna Camper Park. It is very nice and clean and the folks are very helpful and it is a very short walk up the road to "downtown" Talkeetna. I also liked it because it backs onto the Alaska Railroad tracks and I love trains.
Between Anchorage and Talkeenta in the Willow area are the Nancy Lake/Big Lake series of campgrounds, all are beautiful.
And although it is very heavily used and the glacier is rapidly receding, there is a special place in my heart for Portage Glacier, right by where you will go through the tunnel to Whittier. I have seen more bear there than anywhere in the state, there are several small campgrounds and a nice visitor center. They also have a boat that will take you to the face of the glacier, although I have never been on it I plan to this summer.
The advice to get a Milepost is wise.
Have a great trip!
oldpenny16
Feb 9, 08, 10:06 am
I remember when Portage Glacier was up CLOSE and we would stop there to get ice for our ice chests.
So says this OLD PENNY!
Yes, I have seen many, many bears in the Portage area. Often on the same trail with tourists. Mixed feelings!
HRHMom
Feb 9, 08, 10:37 am
I remember when Portage Glacier was up CLOSE and we would stop there to get ice for our ice chests.
I know! Me, too - so it is heartbreaking to see it this way, but many fond memories of fishing ice out, fingers frozen, then after it melts finding ice worms left in the cooler. One of my dog's ashes were scattered in the river there.
oldpenny16
Feb 9, 08, 11:58 am
I know! Me, too - so it is heartbreaking to see it this way, but many fond memories of fishing ice out, fingers frozen, then after it melts finding ice worms left in the cooler. One of my dog's ashes were scattered in the river there.
If we wanted to go to Whittier, we parked at the siding at Portage and scrambled up onto the train when it stopped there. No platform!
Did you shop at Kimbell's Dry Goods? It was at about 500 W. 5th. Fine old woman ran the place. The Kobuk Coffee Company is now in part of that building.
divemistressofthedark
Feb 9, 08, 12:02 pm
Portage used to be up close? Wow. Hub and I got some great photos of it when we were through in August 06...I wouldn't miss that ferry ride for the world. Of course, we lucked out and got clear weather, so got some other great glacier photos as well...
I'd also recommend the Prince William Sound prop plane trip from Cordova to Valdez. Saw a humpback from the air, totally unforgettable.
oldpenny16
Feb 9, 08, 12:11 pm
Portage used to be up close? Wow. Hub and I got some great photos of it when we were through in August 06...I wouldn't miss that ferry ride for the world. Of course, we lucked out and got clear weather, so got some other great glacier photos as well...
I'd also recommend the Prince William Sound trip from Cordova to Valdez. Saw a humpback from the air, totally unforgettable.
Once you turned off Alaska Route 1 (Seward Highway) you drove on a narrow road to the lake in front of Portgage Glacier and there it was. I have some photos from as recently as the 1970's that show the glacier close.
One cherished family photo I have is of a winter picnic we had at Portgage Glacier parking lot. Egg salad sandwiches, chips, cookies and plenty of ice. We camped in the winter as well. The bears were denned up so it was much safer.
Homesick now!
akdude
Feb 9, 08, 11:37 pm
Portage was jinxed by the Feds,as soon as they finished the visitor center the rapid recession began.
We also also got our party ice right in front of the old parking lot.
Gardyloo
Feb 10, 08, 8:43 am
Portage was jinxed by the Feds,as soon as they finished the visitor center the rapid recession began.
We also also got our party ice right in front of the old parking lot.
View (http://gardyloo.us/portageglaciersm.jpg) from the parking lot, around October 1980(?). Who says global warming is a myth?
oldpenny16
Feb 10, 08, 9:58 am
Yes, thanks, that's the Portgage Glacier of the old days.
akdude
Feb 10, 08, 11:56 am
Wow;
I seem to remember that glacier ice lasts longer then store bought,to say nothing about the awesome blue color.
HRHMom
Feb 10, 08, 10:26 pm
Portage was jinxed by the Feds,as soon as they finished the visitor center the rapid recession began.
Yes, I noticed that, too!
Quokka
Feb 10, 08, 10:53 pm
Hello. We're traveling June 2-13 in an RV along this circular route. We already checked with Great Alaskan (our RV company) and we can drive the Denali hwy (at 25mph). I hear that weather is better starting in mid-June in Denali. Do you think that's reason to do a counter-clockwise trip, thereby ending in Denali/Talkeetna/ANC? Or is the fact that it'll be less crowded in early June make it better to go there first?
Here's how I'd choose clockwise or counterclockwise ...
Arrive in ANC.
Get RV.
Check Wx report.
If it's clear(ish), then clockwise. Head up the Parks highway towards Denali.
If it's cloudy, obscured, rainy, etc then start counterclockwise and hope by the time you eventually visit Denali, things have improved.
There's a rumor there's a big mountain or two around Denali. :)
For many tourists, it will remain just a rumor. The flexible might just get lucky though.
beckoa
Feb 11, 08, 4:26 am
View (http://gardyloo.us/portageglaciersm.jpg) from the parking lot, around October 1980(?). Who says global warming is a myth?
The people freezing there right now! =)
Sounds like this will be a great trip! Have a blast - try some clamming =)