Trip Reports - LAX-PNH mistake fare run - My trip report, and tips for your upcoming trip to PNH




roadtripman
Oct 21, 07, 4:20 pm
Hello everyone,

Iīve returned from PNH. Iīll be honest in that, when booking this, I had no idea of what I was getting myself into, having never been to Asia before. I was a bit hesitant to go, but it all worked out in the end, and I had the trip of my life (well, one of them). It was the perfect introduction to the Asian continent for me, and I couldnīt have chosen a better place to go.

So hereīs my trip in a nutshell:

I arrived at LAX a mere 2 hours before departure, thinking the lines wouldnīt be too bad on a Sunday night. Well, I shouldnīt base my expectations on my domestic travel and one trip to London from LAX - the lines were amazingly long, stretching and winding around the checkin counters for what was probably a half mile, if you added it up. I wasnīt allowed as a Delta Gold to use the First Class check-in (I thought I was), so the process was a bit slow, but after an hour, I had my boarding pass in hand. The next bit of trouble was the security line - good thing there was 2 lines. I ended up making it to the gate around 6 minutes before boarding. So bottom line, respect the 4 hour check in suggestion given by China Airlines.

I was very impressed with the flight to TPE on China Airlines. I was on a Boeing 747-400, complete with on-demand in-seat entertainment. Iīm used to AA technology, where you can choose from ten channels, but the ability to choose from a library of over 100 programs and movies was wonderful, and the interactive in-seat map was outstanding. There was even a video camera showing the view from the front and bottom of the plane - but it was dark outside.

I arrived in TPE and the transfer process was smooth. One thing I didnīt know but I wish I had known before leaving was that TPE offers free half day tours of Taipei (6 hour tours) to anyone in transit or waiting for their next flight. The tours leave at 8 AM and 1 PM, and return at around 2 PM and 7 PM respectively. There are a few options to choose from - I couldnt do any of them due to my schedule, but it might be worth asking for a stopover in TPE. I did ask, and I was told I could create a one-day stopover free of charge (which contradicts the fare rules) but it seems in TPE theyīre a bit liberal with the rules.

The flight to PNH was a bit much, as I didnīt want to be on the plane anymore. A meal was served once again. I beg everyone who doesnīt have extreme Asian tastebuds to avoid the ĻChinese congeeĻ which consisted of some delicious rice pudding type thing with ginger chicken on top (which was great) but then marred by the huge slices of fermented, rotten duck egg on top. I gagged, but got it down to be polite.

Once in PNH, immigration was a snap. It took all of 2 minutes with the e-visa, and no questions were asked. The onsite visa line was looooong, so try to pay the extra $5 for the e-visa. I recieved my e-visa only 12 minutes after applying for it and paying the fee. Bring multiple copies (I brought 4) and staple 2 into your passport.

Once outside of the airport I was hounded by multiple taxi and moto drivers. The good thing is that prices are set at $7.00 for taxi and $2.00 for moto, but the drivers will beg to choose them. I paid the $2.00 for the moto (a small motorbike) and asked to be taken to the Mekong Express office, on Sisowath Quay (the main riverfront street in Phnom Penh). There, I tried to pick up my tickets to Siem Reap that I reserved in September. However, they didnīt have any record of my reservation. I booted up the laptop and showed them the confirmation email, and they told me the lady who took the reservation was on holidays and didnīt leave them a note. It took some haggling, but I eventually got them to release a seat to me, which cost $10.00

Mekong Express is OK. Itīs not at ALL luxurious. itīs the same uncomfortable bus, but you get a cozy dog (weiner wrapped in phyllo), a small coconut tart, a small bottle of water, and a yogurt drinking box. Itīs really not worth paying double the price for ( tickets to Siem Reap start at $4). The ride to Siem Reap was boring, donīt expect wonderful scenery. Think central Florida, with wetlands spanning mile after mile. The attendent did do a good job at describing some of the sights. Donīt miss the Ļspider cityĻ of Kompong Thom, where you will have a rest stop. Here, there will be dozens of vendors selling everything from fried tarantulas to foetal ducks to crickets. I played it safe and had a baguette and some bananas.

Once in Siem Reap, I caught a tuk-tuk (carriage attached to a moto) to my hotel. I stayed at the Angkor Voyage Villa, which was comfortabel enough, and only $12. You truly need AC, anywhere in Cambodia. Itīs muggy, hot, and unless you like being sweaty while trying to sleep, pay the extra few dollars. Iīd recommend the Voyage Villa, though, but Iīm sure there are nicer places. A good restaurant in the center market (Psar Chaa) is called Socheata Restaurant, and serves some delicious Cambodian food, with dishes running around $1.50. Donīt expect huge portions though - Cambodians are light eaters. It took a few dishes for me to be full (but I am 275 lbs, after all). Avoid the overpriced restaurants on Bar Street - you can do a lot better, and be less of a tourist, by eating at localīs restaurants. And on that note, I was never sick in Cambodia - and I have a weak stomach.

The first day in Siem Reap, I visited some of the local sights. I took everyoneīs advice and didnīt visit Angkor Wat every day (You can truly see everything, and then some, in one day. By early afternoon I was totally templed-out). So, I decided to look around Siem Reap. I hired a moto driverĻ(ĻPahĻ) for $7 for the day, and I visited Wat Thmei, Wat Bo, Wat Athvea, and the floating village of Chong Kneas. I recommend Wat Athvea, as it contains some Angkorian ancient temples. Chong Kneas was touristy, but required on any travelerīs itinerary. The two hour boat tour cost me $12, and I had the boat to myself.

The next day, I visited Angkor Wat. Unless you really, really like the heat, enjoy looking through thirty to forty temples, and are easy to please, just stick with the one day pass. It was plenty for me. Stick to the main temples - Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom (Bayon and Bauphon), Preah Khan, and Ta Prohm. Other hidden gems include the Phimeanakas Temple, the outstanding Presat Neak Pean, and the Thommanon. But, if you have time to spare, get a three day pass, and take it slowly. Just bear in mind you will need to hire a moto driver for the park each day, and this costs around $10.00 depending on the driver. A tuk tuk will be $15.00. Most hotels can arrange this, though I did it all by myself negotiating directly with the drivers.

I stayed at the City Angkor Hotel in Siem Reap, which I booked on Orbitz during the $200 off deal. Itīs a nice enough place with a killer breakfast. The pool is disgusting though, with frogs and slugs on the cement. The rooms are nice enough, but its definitely not the Sheraton. Itīs a Ramada at best.

I took a regular bus back to Phnom Penh ($5), taking 6 hours, and got a room at the Angkor International Hotel. Avoid this one folks. There was no light in the bathroom, and the television didnīt work. It was $10. The next morning, I hightailed it south to Sihanoukville, the major beach resort on the Gulf of Thailand coast. The bus fare was $5 and took 4 hours. Remember this: There are NO EVENING BUSES in Cambodia. The last bus out to anywhere is usually 2:00 PM. Most buses leave at 7 AM. Oh, and book ahead (as youll soon hear why).

In Sihanoukville, I stayed at Cóasterīs Bungalows. This place was great, with thatch hut bungalows. Ítīs right on the beach (the bar almost touches the water). My thatch hut was very comfortable, and it was great to sleep near the water and hear the ocean throughout the night. It wont be for everyone, though, as I shared the room with a foot-long iguana named ĻJonahĻ, who has been there for years, according to the Aussie owner. Jonah didnīt bother me at all, though, and slept on his own across the room in the rafters. Note that these bungalows have no windows, and the doors are basic - they do come with mosquito nets, though. It cost $15 per night.į

A good restaurant on the beach in Sihanoukville is the Moon Shack. Fresh tropical fruit, coconuts, Cambodian and western dishes are all very cheap and presented well. Beer is cheap here too, at $0.50 per pint. For those who are into that sort of thing, every restaurant on the beach serves ĻHappy PizzaĻwhich is pizza topped with marijuana. They arew about $6, but I didnīt partake.

The best beach is Occheutal Beach / Serendipity Beach. They are essentially the same, with Serendiptity being right at the north end of Occheutal. Theyre the busiest and prettiest beaches. The swimming waters were warm and pleasant, but excessively salty. Much saltier than Hawaii or Brazilian beaches. DONT sleep at the sleazy beaches at the north end of town, next to the port. Do your research and donīt let a moto driver take you to his brotherīs place - decide on a hotel beforehand.

If you need money, Canadia bank is the best choice, with no ATM fee. ANZ bank is everywhere, but they will charge you a $3.00 processing fee, in addition to your banks fees.

After visiting Sihanoukville, I headed back to Phnom Penh. But wait - one problem - there were no tickets available Ļuntil MondayĻ. I couldnīt wait 2 days for a bus to Phnom Penh, so I opted for a share taxi. It was double the price of the bus ($10) but it was quicker, and funner to hang out with the locals. The driver was insane, opting to sit on the center console, steering with his left hand, and pressing the gas and brake with his left foot. His daughter wanted the window, so she sat to his left. Oh, and he used his cell phone for most of the drive!

Once back in Phnom Penh, I went to the Indochine Hotel. This is a great little place, with basic but comfortable rooms right on the riverfront, in the center of all the nightlife. Itīs not noisy at all, and the staff are great. A decent room prices out between $8 and $10, but more discerning types can get a nice suite for around $25.

Restaurants to try in Phnom Penh include: Chang Mai Thai (on the riverfront street Sisowath Quay), the Chi Cha Bangladeshi restaurant (on 110th and Sisowath) and its neighbor, the Win Myanmar Burmese restaurant. Meals will run you around $2.50 and they are outstanding. I highly recommend you visit one of these places.

My last day in Phnom Penh involved me hiring a moto driver ($7) who took me to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (plan on 2 or 3 hours here - itīs amazing, profound, and life-changing), followed by the Killing Fields of Choeng-Ek. Definitely do those sights in that order - not vice versa, to fully appreciate and understand the history of this scarred country. Killing fields was OK, and its worth the visit to understand the genocide that took place and honor their memories, but dont expect a photogenic place. Basically, you will see many pits of exhumed mass graves, and see many of their skulls on display - its not for the faint of heart. Oh, and the incense sticks handed out are FREE to honor the memory of the victims. I looked like a complete jackass when I declined the stick, thinking the guys handing them out were just harassing me to give them money (this happens every 2 min in Cambodia, so I was a bit prejudiced). I felt like a shmuck, so the best way to get over that is to make sure you accept the incense sticks.

After the depressing morning of Cambodiaīs bloody history, I visited the Royal Palace. You can seriously do without a visit here, at least in my opinion. The free view fromt he riverfront is the same as what you will see within its gates. Save the $6.50 and go buy yourself a meal instead. Itīs not that it is boring inside - itīs just not that amazing, and since photos arenīt allowed anyways, it wonīt make your collection of photos from the trip.

Definitely do a river cruise on the Tonle Sap, and a bit of the Mekong. The cruises depart from the riverfront near 130 street, and cost $1.00 for 60 minutes. Bring beverages as there are none on board.

Tuesday brought with it my departure from Cambodia. Getting a cheap moto out of town is hard (most drivers want to charge you $10). Persist that a moto ride is set at $2.00 FROM the airport, and itīs the same distance TO the airport and hence the same value. Donīt give up, and 15 drivers later, once the riff raff ditches you and the more sincere drivers are left, youll find someone who will be honest and take you for $2.00. DONT OVERPAY, as it creates expectancy and ruins it for the rest of us who want to travel on the cheap.

Departure process was a bit longer (5 min) but straightforward and security was quick. No liquid laws here, so feel free to bring a 2 liter jug of your favorite soft drink right on board, and give Kip Hawley the symbolic finger.

The flight to Taipei was smooth and boring. We were delayed 2 hours in Taipei. Taipei has free internet, so boot up that laptop. At the airport, I met a fellow Flyertalker on the same deal, but I didnīt get his screenname, so if you end up reading this, hello!

The flight to LAX was horrendous. ĻNightĻlasted only around 4 hours, so sleeping is difficult. It took a lot of patience to get through this flight, and to be active like it was the 1 PM that it was when we arrived, but I got through it okay. 16,000 Delta miles later, at a total trip cost of around $650.00 including airfare for the 7 night stay.

Some general advice on Cambodia:

- To decline someoneīs souvenir/shirt/CD/tour/moto, just look straight ahead and walk away. Make eye contact, and youll not only have him, but a hoard of the same types running to you. Donīt even acknowledge them, unless you want to buy what they have in their hand.

- Donīt overpay. If theyīre charging you $1 for a can of coke, say 50 cents, and if they say no, walk away. They will change their mind almost magically only a couple of seconds later.

- Never believe a moto driver. Always be skeptical of things that sound too good to be true. Pay them only after you are dropped at your hotel. Pay them only what you agreed to. Be clear on that the money you give them is for everything - you wont be chipping in for gas, their meals, their beverages, or the highway tolls. But, I usually buy them dinner as a tip of sorts - just dont let them expect this in advance.

- Realize that everyone truly is trying to rip you off. Iīd estimate I lost $20 needlessly on this trip. Be vigalent and do not give anyone any deposit, and ALWAYS pay after the service is rendered. If you pay a moto driver for the day up front, expect to never see him again after your first drop-off.

- Always ask for an official reciept if you think you are being overcharged. For example, at Chong Kneas, the boat ticket guy told me $20 for the boat ride. A simple request for an official reciept led to me getting a Ļspecial discount for foreignerĻdown to $12 when it came time to pay.

- Never give a child any money. They are taken from school just to suck up to you. Be polite, and tell them to tell their parents to take them to school.

Thatīs about all folks, Iīd be happy to answer any other questions you might have regarding my trip or Cambodia in general. Hope you enjoyed the read.


ucsf_med
Oct 22, 07, 12:08 am
Excellent trip report, I really enjoyed reading about your first adventure into Asia. I'm actually a bit shocked at how cheap you were able to get everything, are you sure you've never been to Asia before?!

I saw this deal but didn't jump on it because I didn't have time-off from work to burn. Now I'm kicking myself for not just booking it and going. I am amazed how cheap things were once you got there. I don't consider myself cheap, but rather a bargain hunter (meaning I still need to have a minimum quality standard, but I try to get that standard for the cheapest price).

27R
Oct 22, 07, 1:21 pm
- Realize that everyone truly is trying to rip you off. Iīd estimate I lost $20 needlessly on this trip.

Thank you for the report! I enjoyed reading it, and I'm glad you enjoyed Cambodia; it's somewhere I hope to return to.

But please keep some perspective. You flew an eighteen thousand miles round trip from the wealth of the US to one of the poorest countries in the world. You know the country suffered appalingly thirty years ago; you saw the evidence with your own eyes. Yet you're complaining that during your holiday, you might have parted with twenty dollars more than you needed to?

Imagine what you could have done with those twenty dollars if they hadn't ended up in the Cambodian economy, but remained in your pocket?


dll
Oct 22, 07, 8:31 pm
I've been to Cambodia and Laos 12 times total, as well as other destinations in SE Asia.

For someone who was on their first trip to SE Asia, let me be the first to say - whoa. You did it right! Even I refrain from taking the bus now if I can fly. You see so much more via bus and ground transport. Congrats for hanging in there and being a good sport about it all.

You seem to have made some broad comments about travel in Cambodia that are probably based on either someone you met there or a guidebook. I'll support what 27R says.

Keep some perspective on the pricing and cost issue, and please do not spread misinformation. Some of the kids are not "taken" from their schools. Some of them cannot even afford to attend one. Not sure who told you that, but I've met a number of jaded expats living in Cambodia who seem to develop a grudge against some of these children.

I'll be the first to admit that they can be a bit much, especially outside of town in the tourist sites. Bear in mind the conditions in which they live.

Cambodians are amazingly lovely people. Everyone is *not* trying to rip you off. They are mostly trying to survive as best they can. I find tourists who argue incessantly with locals over 50 cents for a soda as frustrating as the children who are in your face selling things all the time. If after 15 tuk tuk drivers you've been met with such resistance, you have too much time on your hands.

It's a fine line that one walks when travelling. Cambodia, like many countries in the world (Egypt among them!) is an exceedingly difficult place to live and tourists are the lifeline to the average person. Some compassion for this goes a long way - one can easily take it too far, clearly. But to say that paying "extra" for things "ruins" it for the rest of travellers who want cheap things is hard to hear, especially when you said earlier in your review that the extra $5 for an E-Visa is highly suggested. You could have saved that money and only "overpaid" by $15.

At any rate, I hope you'll continue to explore more of this part of the world - it's my favorite part of the world, not because it is "cheap". I do consider it incredible value, but it's the people who make it special. I think (or hope) you picked up on that.

stimpy
Oct 23, 07, 2:50 am
On my first trip to Cambodia many years ago I worried about the same thing. Kids being pimped by their parents. So I did what I always do in that situation. I bought the kids a Coke and some food. Then, as pretty much always when I do this in Asia, the kids were overjoyed. That and the sugar rush from the Coke changed them from beggars back in children. They forgot everything else but running around and playing.

You can't change the world, but you can easily make a child's day when you are traveling around a place like that.

aSiAnRiCk
Oct 23, 07, 6:53 am
Thanks for the report! I felt really bad for not pulling the trigger on the deal. Hopefully I'll make a better decision at the next "mistake fare".

roadtripman
Oct 23, 07, 8:48 am
Yet you're complaining that during your holiday, you might have parted with twenty dollars more than you needed to?

Imagine what you could have done with those twenty dollars if they hadn't ended up in the Cambodian economy, but remained in your pocket?

I definitely didn't mean to infer that it would be a good thing to be so cheap as to try to spend the least amount of money possible and try to get things for under their actual value. What I was inferring, admittedly somewhat insensitively, was that I disagee with conceding when you are knowingly being ripped off. If the going rate for a moto for the day is $10 (as it is in Angkor/Siem Reap/Phnom Penh), then pay that rate. I wouldn't try to get the full day down to $5 and hurt these people any more than they have. But, I do believe it is a disservice to pay any sort of inflated rate (eg. $20) that the moto driver may be trying to get out of you. $10 is already a lot of money to these people - I'm not inferring that it would be a good idea to ask for the moto for $3 for the day.

I'm sorry if I sound greedy or cheap - I'm actually pretty giving. When I agreed to a price for the moto for a half day ($5), and the floating village boat ride took longer than expected, I did give the driver an extra $2 for the extra time, and bought him dinner. And as for the kids, I did buy their flutes, and drinks, but I did pay fair prices (and they seemed happy with what they got for their wares). But, in the end, no matter how much money I have, and how little money they might have, it's never a good idea to overpay for anything, nor underpay for anything. I like to keep things fair, and the prices I paid were well above what the locals pay, so there is not much cause for concern. When I mentioned the $20, I was describing the amount of money I was overcharged from the normal tourist price on the course of the holiday.

I hope you get my point, and that you all don't think of me as a greedy North American tourist trying to milk the Cambodians for everything they are worth! Anyways, I hope the trip report was useful for planning your upcoming trip, if any of you are headed there on this deal.




You seem to have made some broad comments about travel in Cambodia that are probably based on either someone you met there or a guidebook......Not sure who told you that, but I've met a number of jaded expats living in Cambodia who seem to develop a grudge against some of these children.

Yes, this was probably Lonely Planet-induced as well as angry ex-pat induced - you got it spot on. Generally, the kids were well-behaved when touting their wares, but I lost my patience when they began literally slapping my face with the flutes (at least seven kids ganging up on me to buy one). You make a good point about buying them a Coke or a meal - I honestly never even thought of that, I and I probably would have in retrospect. Sadly, I'm a cynic at heart, and I probably shouldn't assume that every child is being held back from school by their parents. Even though Lonely Planet's Cambodia states in bold "never buy anything from a child". I guess I am a bit easy to convince :eek:

Fliar
Oct 23, 07, 9:45 am
Thanks for the trip report. I will be spending three weeks in PNH next year (for work) so some of your experiences will help me plan my own trip. (I didn't know about the e-visa for one thing!).

Is this fare still available? Where?

mat1090
Oct 26, 07, 7:27 pm
Thank you for taking the time to share your experience with us!
I copied and pasted into MS Word and it turn-out to print 7 pages!^

RustyC
Oct 28, 07, 3:46 am
Would agree that the OP did an uncommonly good job on the bookings; most of the time we hear about people paying $40 and up in a place like Siem Reap, or booking things in advance over the international systems and paying much more than the more seasoned types.

The "real" way to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap has/had to be with one of those speedboats going the river route and across the Tonle Sap. They'd be way overloaded with backpackers and would sometimes get stuck or fired upon. If the wind was blowing on the big lake it'd cause a lot of spray and discomfort for those up top, but there wasn't room for more people inside. Then you got literally mobbed by the guesthouse touts at the ferry pier.

Cambodia has definitely toned down a lot in the last 10 years, often for the better. A good read on how it WAS in the late 90s would have to be "Off the Rails in Phnom Penh" by Amit Gilboa.

stimpy
Oct 28, 07, 4:21 am
Cambodia has definitely toned down a lot in the last 10 years, often for the better. A good read on how it WAS in the late 90s would have to be "Off the Rails in Phnom Penh" by Amit Gilboa.

Why read a book when you can read your fellow Flyertalker trip reports from Cambodia in the 90's? Mine is here http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1645732&highlight=#post1645732 embedded in a RTW I took.



SEO by vBSEO 3.2.0