Trip Reports - A Superficial, Girls' Guide to Vietnam

First of all, just to be clear, this is nothing more than a very superficial report about a chick’s – this one’s – trip to Vietnam. You will find no profound insights. No deep connections to the Vietnam-American war since I was just born when it started. No lofty pontifications about the Vietnam of today.

What this report is about is shopping, silk, spas, shopping, spas, silk, and just a wee bit of culture thrown in with the couture so you don’t think I’m completely shallow.

Oh, and a note for those of you who’ve read my trip reports before, I finished this one, which may be a first!

So the journey begins comfortably seated in 15A on UA’s upper deck (yes, they actually trust a semi-shallow chick with the exit door). We take a route I’ve never taken to Asia before – up to Alaska, over to Russia and China, a sharp turn through Korea and down to Hong Kong (yes, I know Hong Kong’s not in Vietnam – we’ll get there). We skirt land the entire way. I’ve never been in Russian airspace before and notice we’re flying at FL395, which is rather odd and not just because 5 is an odd number. So I ask the co-pilot about it on landing and find out that China and Russia use meters so we’re at about 12,000 meters. They get a call in the cockpit from ATC when the switch is made.

Oh yeah, for those of you interested in on-board food, I had a pre-departure glass of champagne, a potato for dinner (I pick and chose from the sides to come up with a decent veggie meal) and lots of red wine that I can’t recall the name of, but it wasn’t the Clos du Bois. I watch “Beat the Drum”, a decent film about a Zulu boy in South Africa who goes to Johannesburg to look for work after his family members die of AIDS. The flight is a very long 14 hours and I can’t sleep. Before arrival, I think I had breakfast.

In Hong Kong, I go through security then hang out in the Thai lounge. When it’s time to board the flight to Saigon, all United passengers get yet another security screening. This one is a hand search of all carry-on luggage. I have only carry-ons, but my only contraband is a half-empty bottle of water from the lounge. The woman being screened next to me is carrying a veritable mini-bar of tiny full alcohol bottles, presumably looted from one of the lounges. She looks both miffed and embarrassed as bottle after bottle is pulled from her bag.

We line up for boarding – first and business on the left; coach on the right – and the agents come through and make sure we are single file and our lines are perfectly straight. There’s no mistaking Hong Kong for Rome, that’s for sure. Some passengers are randomly pulled aside in the jetway for yet another security screening.

I’m back upstairs in 15A and, while the flight to Hong Kong was full, there are just 9 of 24 seats taken upstairs (don’t know how many in business downstairs); and one passenger in first. By the looks of the boarding area, I gather coach was pretty darn full.

This flight is just two hours, but the flight attendant serves a hot meal. I have no idea what it was though since I slept.

Immigration in Ho Chi Minh City is notoriously slow. I’m about the third person in line and about 20 minutes pass before I reach the officer. I’d imagine the folks getting off the plane last had a good hour plus on line.

It’s about 10 p.m. and I step outside and get blasted with hot air. Immediately I see my driver and we head to the Omni Saigon. Another hotel employee is along and seems to want to make conversation in English so I oblige. The Omni is near nothing (except a Qi spa) but it’s just 10 minutes from the airport and in 8 hours or so I’ll be returning there for my flight to Hanoi.

I have a deluxe room with a sitting area. Nothing fancy, but just fine. Before the buffet breakfast, which is included in my $80 rate, I workout at the hotel gym. The equipment isn’t the newest, but all the functions on the machines work, which is something I seldom find in a hotel.

After breakfast I take a cab to the airport for my Vietnam Airways flight to Hanoi. My roundtrip flight was $200, and about $80 more to upgrade to first (they call it business, but it’s a two-class plane). I was expecting a 737, but it appears their entire fleet is 777s, and with a lovely color scheme inside – muted beige and green upholstery on the seats in coach and dark blue leather in front. This flight’s less than two hours, but there are hot meals served in both classes.

I take a cab from the airport to the Hilton in Hanoi. The agent escorts me to the seventh floor for the “executive” check-in. The hotel could be anywhere, but it’s nice, comfortable and well-located. The lounge has free Internet, breakfast, afternoon tea and hors d’oeuvres and wine in the evenings.

Next: Shoes, shoes, shoes or walking through old town Hanoi

Just a small correction if you don't mind:
12,000 kilometers is really quiet high. I don't think even astronauts can fly at that altitude.
12,000 meters is probably the correct number

Just a small correction if you don't mind:
12,000 kilometers is really quiet high. I don't think even astronauts can fly at that altitude.
12,000 meters is probably the correct number

Not only superficial, but scatterbrained. :) I made the correction. Thanks.

Not only superficial, but scatterbrained. :) I made the correction. Thanks.

My pleasure.

I was expecting a 737, but it appears their entire fleet is 777s,

Indeed... the SGN-HAN route is populated by 777 service, with a sprinkling of 320s. If it's one thing the Communist government knows how to do, is to spend money on big expensive shiny things :p

I look forward to the rest of your trip report (and quite pleased that there seems to be a boom of VN-related threads as of late) ^

Mmmmm, looking forward to this. I've loved my trips to Vietnam, and will look forward to your tips for my return visit.

The first travel agent I contacted in Vietnam about going to Hanoi told me not to go because it would be cold and wet in December. It was a bit on the chilly side (I was glad to have a light-weight jacket to wear out walking), but there was no rain. I headed out that afternoon and evening to walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and through Old Town.

I’ve been through a lot of Southeast Asia, but Old Town is like nothing I’ve seen before. Every inch of sidewalk is taken up – stores’ merchandise spills out on to it; motorbikes are parked on it as far as the eye can see; and makeshift restaurants are set up with customers sitting on little tiny stools about 6” off the ground around women cooking various foods. Some women keep their restaurants on the move, bamboo pole slung over a shoulder with a cooking pot resting in the hanging basket on one side and veggies in the basket on the other side.

The aroma of a sugared bread is tempting as is the corn on the cob, but I resist. One of my guide books says 75 percent of tourists who visit Vietnam get sick. I don’t know if this is true or not, but I play it safe.

Old Town is made up of dozens of little streets that have names that mean things like metalwork street and silk street and so on. On one street there are nothing but headstones beautifully carved with the likeness of the deceased as copied from photos. Another street has fake money for burning and several are filled with shoes of all kinds. Among them I spot some painted wooden flip flops I purchased in the states after seeing them in Elle magazine. I undoubtedly paid at least 10x more than they sell for on the street here. The International Herald Tribune has a story on new trade agreements between the US and Vietnam and it’s not surprising to read that shoes are considered a good candidate for export to the US. In a more upscale store (the stores with doors I take to calling them) I find a pair of silk mules that are hand embroidered. They’re beautiful and set me back all of about $30.

The store fronts are all tiny – stretch your arms wide and you can easily touch each wall. I understand that tax rates were at some time based on the amount of street-front property you had, so buildings are narrow and deep.

Every street is fascinating. There are the streets with herbal shops; and those with snake wine. The dead snake lies coiled in the bottom of a jar with the brownish-colored beverage. Nearby is a snake village that tourists can visit where they not only serve and sell the wine, but will prepare snake for you about a dozen different ways. Almost makes me want to rethink this vegetarian thing – or not.

There are personal services on some streets too. In a tiny area people sit and wait to see the dentist, who has a dental chair and a lightbulb to work under. Someone else has a barber chair set up on the street and a 12”-long pair of shears he’s using to cut his client’s nose hairs.

I want to take everything in, but it’s difficult. With the sidewalks filled, it means walking in the street with the unbelievable array of traffic. Bikes, cyclos, motorbikes all compete for space. What looks like a one-way street turns out not to be, as one driver decides to weave his way against the dozens coming before him. Crossing the street is a challenge, but you learn quickly … look for a slight break (meaning a vehicle is about 3’ away from hitting you) and just keep walking. The drivers will steer around you, or so it’s hoped. Everyone honks constantly. I’m not sure it has any meaning since everyone’s doing it. It would be a far more relaxing stroll if not for the constant noise of the horns.

On the silk street there are several stores with doors, including the popular Khai Silk and another store with a large photo of the staff with Hillary Clinton. I don’t care much for what I find here, which is just as well, as there are far better stores to come.

Next: More Hanoi

(yes, they actually trust a semi-shallow chick with the exit door)

Whoa, what's going on here? Who's been playing with your head?

= =

An entertaining report so far. Certainly at least as entertaining as most,
including mine. I talk about fried squid, you talk about shoe shopping.

After breakfast I take a cab to the airport for my Vietnam Airways flight to Hanoi. My roundtrip flight was $200, and about $80 more to upgrade to first (they call it business, but it’s a two-class plane). I was expecting a 737, but it appears their entire fleet is 777s, and with a lovely color scheme inside – muted beige and green upholstery on the seats in coach and dark blue leather in front. This flight’s less than two hours, but there are hot meals served in both classes.

Just so you know VN flies a variety of aircraft. Wiki VN Fleet (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vietnam_Airlines#Fleet)

I very good report so far. I'm enjoying it and am looking forward to updates.

Great read so far! On my next trip to Asia I really want to spend some time in Vietnam so I'm looking forward to more installments of your report.

Glad you are safely returned and I am transported back to Hanoi and look forward to your continuation. ( also noted your new;) name!)

letoile said No deep connections to the Vietnam-American war since I was just born when it started.

And I thought you were born during Iran Contra. ;)

Nice report; but before I continue reading, I still have to go to Croatia. ;)

Dan

So far, so good....breathlessly awaiting more.

Nice one Sheri ^

And I am so jealous you beat me there! I'm just looking at plans for an '07 motorcycle ride down the Hoh Chih Min trail. If you recall from my Cambodia trip I met some guys who had done that with a combination of motorcycle/bicycle ride.

Well I had better get over there soon 'cuz you know how us shallow folks can't be one-upped by another :D

Mike

Brings back fond memories of Hanoi. That first time crossing the street sure takes a real leap of faith!

lots of red wine that I can’t recall the name of, but it wasn’t the Clos du Bois.

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ to that ;)

This superficial and shallow girl is enjoying your report.

^ Great Trip Report! Very enjoyable read.

If it not already part of your itinerary. I highly recommend the overnight train from Hanoi to Sapa.

Looking forward to the rest of your trip.

...a note for those of you who’ve read my trip reports before, I finished this one, which may be a first!

So the journey begins comfortably seated in 15A on UA’s upper deck (yes, they actually trust a semi-shallow chick with the exit door)...A finished report... ^ ^ to that.

And they trust anyone nowadays with exit doors ;)

Excellent report...i am dying to read the second part...

S,
You so crazy!:D
J

Great report so far! I hope to get to Vietnam sometime soon also(and would love to find some silk mules for $30).

S,
You so crazy!:D
J

Uh oh, coming from you, that really has me doing some thinking! :D

Thanks for the comments all ... and dhammer, anyone who thinks I was born during Iran-Contra has a place in my heart forever. :)

More from Hanoi

I had to do something beyond shop in Hanoi - not sure why, just seemed I should. So I decided to pay a visit to Ho Chi Minh. The former president apparently wanted to be cremated with his ashes stored on three mountain tops in Vietnam, but instead, some 35+ years after his death, he’s embalmed and on display. There was a bit of line to get into the mausoleum, but it moved pretty quickly. Guards made sure everyone followed the rules, which include being respectful, no photos and never putting one’s hands in one’s pockets. A guy in front of me made the mistake of slipping a hand in his pocket and he got scolded. Inside the mausoleum you walk single file around the coffin, which is bathed in yellowish light. I couldn't see "Uncle Ho" real well, but there's rumors he's held up so well because he's really being taken care of by Madame Tussaud's.

Back outside, I walked over to the entrance area again, about two blocks away, to retrieve my shopping bag, which wasn’t allowed inside. I had made a purchase (you’ll never guess – shoes!) earlier in the day and so had to leave them there. On the way I stumbled on a wonderful little shop that wasn’t really open for business yet. The owner was still unpacking, putting up shelving and organizing merchandise, but she let me in any way. She had garments from hill tribes as well as embroidered pieces from them that she worked into more useable pieces. It was the raw embroidery and garments I was interested in, and even though we couldn’t communicate very well she seemed to know exactly what I wanted, even calling her husband to bring more things from her home for me to see. I had such fun with her. She had bags full of the most elaborate hand-worked cloth that I picked through. I came away with several of the embroidered pieces that I will eventually frame or work into something as well as a headpiece woven from horse hair and topped with metal pieces that look kind of like chopsticks and a very ornate soap dish. I have to read more about this one. She showed me a photo and description of it in a book and I was able to write a little information down, but much of it was in Vietnamese so it didn’t help me too much. When I’d made all my selections and paid, she brought me a gift – a handmade doll dressed in hill tribe costume. Most all of the shop owners I purchased from on this trip gave me gifts. I assume this means I overpaid (and no doubt I did since I only bargained for one item on the whole trip), but if I was overpaying it was by a few dollars, and I suspect I’ll enjoy the memories the gifts bring much more than those few dollars.

From there I flagged a cab to the silk village, about 7 km away. To call it a village is a misnomer, it’s more of an out-of-the-way street filled with silk shops and factories. It was definitely nice to walk here as it was basically a pedestrian zone. Instead of the constant sound of horns honking, the only noise was the whirr of the silk looms. The little shops here had a large selection of silks – robes, scarves, jackets, blouses, shirts, bolts of fabric – at a fraction of the prices of the stores in town. Scarves I recognized as selling for about $60-$80 at home, were $5 here. I came away with several silk nightgowns, a robe, about a dozen scarves and a few shirts, and I think I spent less than $200 in total.

My last night in Hanoi I walked around the green Hoan Kiem lake – rumored to have giant tortoises who poke their heads out once every six years or so (or more likely they’re hauled in from a zoo every six years ;) ) - went to a water puppet show (supposedly the best in the country) and had dinner at Restaurant Bobby Chinn.

Chinn worked with Hubert Keller at Fleur de Lys in San Francisco as well as with Gary Danko, and ran Carmargue in Saigon before opening his own place. He now does kind of a modern Vietnamese-French-fusion cuisine. I wasn’t too impressed with the food (rather bland), but the décor was fun with red silk curtains hanging throughout, dim lighting, rose petals scattered on the tables. In other spaces there were comfy chairs and sofas for more relaxed parties. It was definitely a matter of style over substance (hmmm ... or maybe shallow and superficial and therefore a good fit for me ;) ). A good place for a drink and dessert or appetizers – although beware the mixed drinks as my chocolate martini was deadly. In sum, the place was a visual delight and lots of fun, but the food left something to be desired. http://www.bobbychinn.com/en/ambience.htm

Finally, on the way back to the Hilton from dinner, I came across a handbag store. I have to find the receipt and the name on this place and post it because it's definitely worth a visit. There were lots of interesting bags, but what caught my eye was one I had seen at a trade show in San Francisco a few months ago. My brother's ex-girlfriend is a handbag designer and she decided to torture me by taking me to a show where I couldn't buy anything ... it's the same problem I have with museums. Anyway ... this great little purse I saw at the show - all silk in a dome shape with an unsual wrap closure and hand embroidery - was there! In four different colors! And I got it for 1/10th the price it was going to retail for based on the show prices. And I thought I'd never see that little bag again. It must have been fate. :)



Next: My pinch-me experience on Halong Bay

You mentioned "Hill Tribes". Are you referreing to the Montgnards? My understanding is that they did not fair very well with the new government after the war ended (in fact they were resistant to any central government throughout their history). I'm not sure what happened to them as a people. There were rumors that they continued with an on/off civil war for years afterwards. Were they wiped out, finally assimilated, or just left alone to their own devices which is what historically has proved to be the best remedy for them?

M8

I love this trip report. L'etoile is my kind of traveler. BTW, happy to see your screen name is spelled correctly (finally)^

Handbags and shoes.... Are you by any chance related to my wife?:D

I'll pass on Vietnam myself.
It is a pleasure to hear your report but can you make it a little less girly? :D
Can't wait for the next part

You mentioned "Hill Tribes". Are you referreing to the Montgnards? My understanding is that they did not fair very well with the new government after the war ended (in fact they were resistant to any central government throughout their history). I'm not sure what happened to them as a people. There were rumors that they continued with an on/off civil war for years afterwards. Were they wiped out, finally assimilated, or just left alone to their own devices which is what historically has proved to be the best remedy for them?

M8

Um ... are you trying to derail this? It's superficial and shallow, remember? ;)

OK, so I'll tell you more about the tribes later.

....It's superficial and shallow, remember?...

Having read your report pretty carefully, you make no mention of your husband, your son or any man.

Who was there to carry your luggage; to give you directions and tell you where to eat, what to order? How did check into hotel rooms and the airport by yourself?

Who converted currency for you and then when you were shopping who calculated the cost in American dollars? Did you call home every time you went into a store?

Superficial indeed: you, madam, are a fraud.

Superficial indeed: you, madam, are a fraud.

I failed to mention my porter/insignificant other? Dear me ...

Hanging on every word and waiting to find out if Vietnam is the true source of Goody Goody Bon Bons. :cool:

I had to do something beyond shop in Hanoi - not sure why, just seemed I should. So I decided to pay a visit to Ho Chi Minh...Culture :o !

...had dinner at Restaurant Bobby Chinn.

Chinn worked with Hubert Keller at Fleur de Lys in San Francisco as well as with Gary Danko, and ran Carmargue in Saigon before opening his own place. He now does kind of a modern Vietnamese-French-fusion cuisine. I wasn’t too impressed with the food (rather bland), but the décor was fun with red silk curtains hanging throughout, dim lighting, rose petals scattered on the tables...With that pedigree, I would also have expected more from the food :p

^ ^ to the décor though ;)

I failed to mention my porter/insignificant other? Dear me ...

Yes, undoubtedly riding on the coattails of your free flights, upgraded hotels and airline lounges afforded to your superficial, yet elite, lifestyle. All porters should be so well compensated.

Yes, undoubtedly riding on the coattails of your free flights, upgraded hotels and airline lounges afforded to your superficial, yet elite, lifestyle. All porters should be so well compensated.

He's a lovely fellow, but he does a terrible job pressing my clothes and he can't handle more than 12 shopping bags at a time. Good help is so hard to find. <sigh>

A couple of quick items to dispense with … paying with plastic was surprisingly easy in Hanoi and Saigon. I fully expected stores and restaurants that sported a Visa or Amex logo to give me the old “our machine is broken” line, but that never happened.

ATMs were also easy to find, and most everyone took US dollars, making it easy for this shallow one to avoid much complicated math. Afterall, who learns to divide by 16,000? ;) I only got 2 million dong (about US$125) and that lasted through the trip.

In the areas I was in (obviously touristy ones), many people spoke English. I had a quick lesson in Vietnamese from my first driver – the basic hello, thank you – and that went a long way. When I would say thank you in Vietnamese, faces would light up. I gather few people visiting learn even that little. The Vietnamese people I met were among the kindest anywhere.

And first massage was at the Hilton. Hotels tended to charge about $25 an hour for massages. The Hilton didn’t have a real spa, but offered massages and other services in the fitness center.

Now … Halong Bay.

Halong Bay is about three hours from Hanoi by car. My driver picked me up at the Hilton about 8:30 a.m. An interesting thing about driving in Vietnam is you just never know what you might see. Motorbikes are loaded down with all sorts of things, including pig crates packed so tightly with piglets that the little guys are jammed on top of each other with no room to wiggle so much as an ear. I saw a few others with puppies packed that way. The couple of puppies that couldn’t fit inside, were tied to the top of the cage. I don’t think PETA’s made it to Vietnam.

Most people on motorbikes were wearing scarves tied around their faces bandit-style. At first I thought this was for pollution, but then I noticed a good many women covered not only their mouth and noses, but also their foreheads. This made me suspect they might be part of the superficial sisterhood and want to prevent sun damage to their skin, which tends to be very beautiful.

About 45 minutes out of Halong Bay we stopped at a large government-run store that employs disabled workers to make handicrafts. It’s a huge place that sells snacks, pottery, clothing, jewelry at higher prices than most stores. In one section there were rows and rows of young people sitting at work stations. They had photographs that they were using embroidery to copy. Each stitch was about a half-inch long and some of the finished pieces were huge. There was a sign saying no photographs, but if I bought one I figured they might let me take a photo, which they did.

We left there and arrived at the boat. Most of the boats that go out of Halong Bay are junks, but I selected the Emeraude http://www.emeraude-cruises.com/halong.html
, a replica of a 1910 paddle steamer. The ship is just three years old and it’s quite lovely. The floors are highly polished wood, the fixtures are all brass and wicker chairs are placed around the bar on the deck and outside each room. There are 36 cabins and two suites (really just oversized rooms). There were only about 20 passengers on my sailing, yet a staff of 45, and no one had booked the suites. If booked in advance, the suites are $200 more for the two-day, one-night cruise, but on arrival, if they haven’t been booked, you can get them for $50-$100 extra. Of course, upon discovering this, I decided I needed a suite. The suite I had was on the bow of the ship and had chains I could put up on outside on port and starboard so no one could walk in front of my windows or where I was sunning. I also received roses, a bottle of champagne and a fruit plate. What more could a girl ask for, except for maybe a massage and a warm breeze as she laid out on deck. So I booked a massage along with a manicure and pedicure. I can’t remember the cost breakdown, but all three services came to $33.

Sometimes I worry that I might get a little jaded and stop seeing the beauty nature offers. Halong Bay put my concerns to rest. This was one of those rare places where I was in awe at what was before me. I stood out on deck and just kept thinking, I can’t believe I’m here. It was truly a time where I had to keep pinching myself to know it wasn’t just a dream. Halong Bay holds some 3,000 karsts of varying shapes and sizes in its emerald waters. Words and even photos don’t do it justice. It’s simply magical. My only regret was that I wasn’t spending more time here. The Emeraude only has the one-night sailing, although some of the junks do go out for two nights.

Next: More time in Halong Bay and then off to Saigon

Thanks to l'etoile's beautifully written Trip Report, I am now eager to visit Vietnam.^

Wait a minute... am I going to catch up to l'etoile? :eek:

Reporting in from The Wing in HKG, T-2 hours before departure for SGN.

...I also received roses, a bottle of champagne and a fruit plate. What more could a girl ask for, except for maybe a massage and a warm breeze as she laid out on deck. So I booked a massage along with a manicure and pedicure...Were you able to book a warm breeze as well? ;)

Sometimes I worry that I might get a little jaded and stop seeing the beauty nature offers. Halong Bay put my concerns to rest. This was one of those rare places where I was in awe at what was before me. I stood out on deck and just kept thinking, I can’t believe I’m here. It was truly a time where I had to keep pinching myself to know it wasn’t just a dream. Halong Bay holds some 3,000 karsts of varying shapes and sizes in its emerald waters. Words and even photos don’t do it justice. It’s simply magical."Simply magical" sounds about right :-:

Like you, I do worry about becoming overly jaded; thankfully, there usually seems to be a magical place or experience along the way that, once again, takes my breath away.

The Emeraude offered a bunch of activities – a cooking class (me cook? ha!), morning Tai Chi, a fishing demonstration, kayaking and swimming – but I preferred to enjoy the bar, the sun and the pampering. Kayaking would have been nice had there been more time, but I wasn’t so sure about swimming. From the looks of the shallow water near the beach, a lot of trash went into the bay and I strongly doubt any of the boats had holding tanks. I did go ashore on one of the karsts to walk through a rather large cave (formations looked long dead) with a boat mate form Southern California. She had just finished up six months of teaching English in Chiang Mai and was now traveling around SE Asia a bit before returning home. We shared a passion for all the same superficial things so, as I’ll be in Chiang Mai next month, she gave me the name of her favorite restaurants, shops, spas and massage therapist there. And I gave her my favorites in Laos.

Back onboard, our meals were all served in a dining room heavily covered in wood. They were buffet style, but, knowing I’m a vegetarian, the chef always brought me out a specially prepared meal from the kitchen.

While the junks, which looked far more backpacker like and less elegant that the Emeraude, seemed to cluster in the same areas and tie up side-by-side, we dropped anchor for the night in a cozy area surrounded on all sides by karsts. Morning came much too soon. A few women and children in tiny boats that were really oversized baskets paddled up to the Emeraude to try and sell us things, although I wasn’t quite sure what. In other parts of the world I have loved these boat-to-boat sellers. There’s nothing like getting a boat-side delivery of ice when you’re on your own boat in the Caribbean and the drinks are in danger of getting warm or having fresh-baked pastries delivered to your sloop in the morning while tied to a buoy off Croatia. On the Emeraude we were quite well provisioned however.

I asked the crew about longer stays on the Emeraude and, while they don’t offer that, the on-board director said some people do book the same trip back-to-back – not ideal, but better than having to disembark after such a short time.

I have little doubt that Halong Bay could become another Cannes with a little infrastructure improvement, some beach cleanup, new hotels and the addition of some charter companies so you could sail on your own for a week or two. Apparently there is a 10-year plan for the area that will bring some of these changes – including an airport to make getting there easier as the drive is far from scenic.

My driver was waiting (along with a bunch of women trying to sell us all pearl strands) and we disembarked and then made the trek back to the Hanoi airport, again stopping for a break at a government-run handicrafts shop. I bought a few replica opium pipes there to add to my collection of real ones. I usually don’t buy reproductions if I can help it, but I liked the shapes on these.

Hanoi Airport

I arrived about 1.5 hours before my flight and spent some time in the Vietnam Airways lounge. There were free papers, Internet access, lots of packaged snacks, water, soft drinks, and beer. I had a juice and snacks. I was on a bit of a quest to find papers with paragraphs blacked out, but despite looking through several, I never saw a one. I also couldn't find an Internet site that wouldn't load, but I supposed if I really wanted to find some I could have. ;)

We had a remote gate so coach passengers crowded on to large buses, while the rest of us had smaller, more comfortable rides to the plane. F was full. I slept my way to Hanoi, so skipped the meal and the drink service.

Finally: Saigon …. And my real shopping finds and indulgences from Vietnam's top couturier.

(Also, photos from Halong Bay coming soon, especially now that my son is around to make my crummy photos look (I hope) halfway decent.)

Finally: Saigon …. And my real shopping finds and indulgences from Vietnam's top couturier.
Oooh, what a tease! I'm loving your trip report and anxiously awaiting the next chapter! :)

Awesome trip report thus far! I can't wait to read the report on Saigon. The report gives me pointers on my upcoming trip to Vietnam.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010382.jpg
Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010383.jpg
A tangle of power lines in Hanoi

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010387-1.jpg
Store fronts are so small, apparently for tax reasons

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010399.jpg
Some of the young people embroidering copies of photographs at a government-run center

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010418.jpg
Traveling salespeople in Halong Bay. Notice the boat is really a big basket.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010426.jpg
The junks in Halong Bay tended to stay together, while the Emeraude went off on its own.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/P1010459.jpg
The dining room on the Emeraude.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/AEdited1.jpg
Halong Bay

More photos of Halong Bay, and the Saigon installment coming soon ...

From there I flagged a cab to the silk village, about 7 km away. <snip> I came away with several silk nightgowns, a robe, about a dozen scarves and a few shirts, and I think I spent less than $200 in total.

Did they give you a trade discount as a courtesy to one in the business? :p

Excellent trip report l'etoile. I look forward to reading the rest! ^

Diannne47: Alas, Goody Goody Bon Bons are made in China. But, I did meet the designer last year and can get some deals. Will email you with info soon.

Did they give you a trade discount as a courtesy to one in the business? :p

I didn't even think about that! I should have offered to trade silkworm eggs for clothing and I could have cleaned out my fridge in the process. :) Of course, there would go my source of protein .... Omelets at my house anyone? ;)

Saigon

I used United’s “Three Perfect Days” feature as a loose guide for my three days in Saigon, with one major change: while the story recommended the Caravelle Hotel, based on FlyerTalk reviews I decided on the Park Hyatt Saigon (perhaps 3PD would have selected that too, but the hotel opened after the story ran). I booked a Park King Suite, a two room-suite with a bedroom, living room and large marble bath. The female staff wore elegant deep blue ao dais, the nicest I’d seen so far in Vietnam. I approached the counter and the agent took me up to my suite where we completed the details of checking in. As we approached the suite, waiting by the door was what I gather was the butler, immediately causing me to wonder how many shopping bags he was capable of juggling.

The suite was quite large and attractive although there was nothing very Vietnamese about it (they describe this hotel as being like a “Vietnamese residence” I didn’t quite get that). I received a large fruit bowl that was replenished regularly as well as a bottle of wine. One funny little quirk I found in all my hotels in Vietnam was that they had a price list for most everything in the room, and this was not a W-type price list of fun items, but one that included from laundry bag to the hotel phone directory. Do people really take hotel phone directories? Especially, at something like $60 each?

The hotel is perfectly located for shopping and for sightseeing. It’s near the Opera House and walking distance to Reunification Palace, the War Museum and more shops, restaurants and spas than I could hit in three days.

Worn out, the first evening I ordered a caprese sandwich from room service (I had wonderful tomatoes throughout my trip, and these were no exception) and nodded off early. In the morning I hit the nicely equipped gym, complete with machines with TVs built into them (HBO and CNN were among the selections).

The Hyatt neighbors the Continental Hotel (“The Quiet American” author Graham Greene is said to have preferred room 214 there) and is diagonally across the square from the Caravelle.

After grabbing a pastry at a nearby bakery, it was time to hit the street. I only got about a block and a half from the Hyatt before I found my first favorite shop in Saigon: P&F Silk on Dong Khoi. This little shop is filled with silk dresses, ao dai, blouses, etc., but they also do custom work and have several folds of various silk fabrics. Several pieces off the rack fit me or needed minor alterations and I got measured for a few other pieces. The young women who work here are very kind and helpful. I had four pieces made – they would be ready for fittings the following day – and bought two dresses off the rack that needed shortening and some taking in. The most I spent was $120 for a dress that was custom made and hand embroidered. The least I spent was $10 for a silk dress with hand-beading that they hemmed and altered for free.

Next I hit a little spa across the street for a massage – all that trying on of clothing can wear a girl out. This was not a fancy place, just a basic massage studio where I paid about $12 for a very good 75-minute hot stone massage.

Refreshed, I headed a bit further down Dong Khoi toward the water where I found my next favorite shop in Saigon (don’t worry – I only have three favorites – or maybe four). I don’t know the name, but it’s close to the water and has a very large street-front presence. The inside walls are painted orange. This shop had a little of everything for the home, but they seemed to specialize in tribal pieces. I returned here again and again because there were so many interesting things to find. I bought an older hand-embroidered Hmong prayer shawl. I’ve collected quite a lot of Asian garments over the years, from Chinese foot-binding shoes to Japanese wedding kimono and reed raincoats, and this seemed like a nice addition. Again, I didn’t bargain, and again, I received some nice little gifts from the shopkeeper.

For lunch, I headed down Nguyen Thiep toward Augustine, a reasonably good small French restaurant that seems to be popular with French ex-pats. Along the way, I was stopped by a French ex-pat who was doing surveys for the tourism department to find out why most visitors to Vietnam don’t make a second trip. He seemed to want me to say negative things: You didn’t find Halong Bay crowded with boats? Wasn’t it dirty there? Haven’t you been harassed by panhandlers? What about the smog? No, I didn’t have problems with any of these things. Would I visit again? Sure. Would it be the first place on my list on my next visit to SE Asia? No. It’s not that it’s not enjoyable, but Laos, Cambodia and Indonesia simply are far more enchanting. The competition is tough.

While the survey taker asked me questions, a young boy ran over and quickly started to shine the man’s shoes. The man lifted his foot and shooed him away. These children – along with others selling postcards – are pretty much all over the place. I’ve read different things about them – they’re working for the mafia and get nothing of what they earn, they’re trying to support their families, they live on the street and get beaten periodically – it’s difficult for a visitor to know the truth. Does paying them help them? Or does the money go somewhere other than to food for them? I don’t know. I did buy some postcards for $1 from one (who then asked if I'd buy him some milk) and I hope I made one boy’s day as I had watched him early in the day painstakingly making 3-D greeting cards. I bought pretty much his entire inventory later that evening.

Read the section on Saigon in pretty much any travel guide, or even on one of my favorite sites for Asia info www.talesofasia.com and you quickly get the idea that it’s impossible to spend more than a day out and about without having a bag, purse, wallet or camera snatched by someone on a motorbike or by a band of children. It's a city of criminals, some of the books would make one think. While I didn’t walk around with a camera around my neck and a purse over my shoulder, I did carry shopping bags and I never encountered or witnessed anything like that. I did pass a woman near the Reunification Palace who was lying on the sidewalk with a baby. Another man – apparently a tourist - was rubbing the baby’s stomach and trying to flag down help. The chubby baby looked happy and healthy and whole situation just had a weird feeling to me. I walked past, but kept watching to see what took place. A Vietnamese man on a motorbike rode up to me and told me she was a plant. A couple of hours later I saw the same woman and child bouncing and around playfully in the same area.

While there are clearly con artists in Vietnam, the people I ran into were far more likely to be like the man on the motorbike who cautioned me not to be taken in. Even though I thought I had the hang of crossing the street, random people would see me at a corner and help me cross. Far from finding a city of criminals, I found a city of helpful, friendly people.

Next: The Reunification Palace, the War Museum, my very, very favorite Vietnamese designer and more on Saigon

Also ... I forgot to mention a not-to-be-missed store in Hanoi for anyone who likes table linens and other soft goods for the home. It's Dome Interiors at 10 Yen Tre. I bought some beautiful velvet and silk table runners, one that I put across the foot of my bed as you often see in Cambodia. Hillary Clinton has apparently shopped here too, as they also had a photo of her with the staff.

...photos from Halong Bay coming soon...Thank you for the photos. Look forward to more :)

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/letiole/AAedited2.jpg
A very dreamy Halong Bay ...

...Read the section on Saigon in pretty much any travel guide, or even on one of my favorite sites for Asia info www.talesofasia.com and you quickly get the idea that it’s impossible to spend more than a day out and about without having a bag, purse, wallet or camera snatched by someone on a motorbike or by a band of children. It's a city of criminals, some of the books would make one think...

...Far from finding a city of criminals, I found a city of helpful, friendly people......which just goes to show one cannot believe everything one reads :eek:

...but needs to experience things first hand ;)

A very dreamy Halong Bay ......dreamy indeed :-:

Thank you :)

Loving your report and style! Am printing it out for your shopping recommendations.

Saigon continued …

I figured if in Saigon I must visit the Reunification Palace, known as the Independence Palace until Communist tanks charged through the gates in April of ’75. As they entered, President Duong Van Minh supposedly said, “We have been waiting for you so that we could turn over the government.” A Communist officer then said either, “You have nothing left to turn over” or “You can’t turn over what was never yours.” I read both in different places. Whatever was said, Minh went off to live quietly in his villa, where he raised orchids, a man after my own heart. Maybe that officer really said, “Just hand over the paphiopedilums.” Minh later moved to France and then to Pasadena, where he died.

The building is very retro in every way – architecture, furnishings, even the magazines. It appears the government’s basically left everything as it was. The library collection still has tennis magazines from the ‘70s. There’s the presidential bedroom and a game room that looks like it came out of an Austin Powers movie. The movie theater has red upholstered swivel chairs. In the war rooms there are rotary dial phones in wild colors. It’s like stepping back in time. The basement tunnels have a bomb shelter and secret doorways and stairs to access different parts of the palace.

That done, I headed back to the Hyatt to lounge at the pool a bit before dinner. The pool is fairly small, but it has ample lounge chairs and umbrellas.

The concierge called around to ask about vegetarian food for me at various restaurants and he made me a reservation for that night at Carmargue, about a block and a half from the hotel. The restaurant gets good reviews, and it’s a pretty nice spot … climb the stairs and you’re outdoors in a nice courtyard, seemingly a million miles away from central Saigon. Pickings were slim for a vegetarian, but I had a nice goat cheese tart and then a serving of gnocchi. Not very French, but good.

The following day I found the be-all-and-end-all designer in Vietnam – Minh Hanh. Hanh has shown her works around the world and is the director of the Vietnamese Fashion Institute. She does an amazing job fusing traditional with modern clothing designs. I fell in love with most everything in her shop. One of the dresses on a form was made of mostly feathers and covered the chest and area below the waist, while leaving the midriff exposed. It was stunning. One side of the shop was filled with one-ofs that had recently been modeled in Rome. I tired on an outfit from the Rome show that featured tribal cloths and handwork fashioned into a very contemporary skirt and top. I had to have it, even though I’m not quite sure where I’ll ever wear it. But where else could I find one-ofs at these prices? I also purchased some of her one-of shoes (she only made one size so I was fortunate that it happened to be mine). The pair I bought is kind of out of character for me, but again I had to have them. Years ago, Bill Blass and I talked about such things, and he commented that when on holiday a woman is far more likely to wear something a little more daring, which is why he took chances with his resort collections. He knew me – and probably all women – quite well. I wore my new “daring” shoes in Saigon later that night.

I spent my next day shopping for a gong of about 3’ in diameter. I saw these gongs in Cambodia last year and wanted one then, but I had so many more flights and shipping was going to be outrageous. My mission this trip was to get a gong. I figured a likely place to find them might be along what’s called “antiques row”, although I doubt there are really any antiques there. I found gongs at three different shops. They ranged in price greatly, and I went back to the one with the best prices and the largest selection. The man at the shop didn’t speak English so we did some pantomime. We both took turns hitting the gongs to determine which sound I liked the best. Of course, I found out later from my son – who relishes in knowing the unusual – that there is a proper way to hit a gong, and we weren’t following it. From what I understand, the proper way is to pulsate the hand holding the striker and lightly tap the center of the gong. Indeed, the sound was much better when we did it that way. Anyway, this is the one piece I bargained a bit on. The shop owner came down about 6 percent and we were both happy.

I later visited the War Museum. I got there about 30 minutes before they were closing for lunch. That was really about all the time I needed to look at the photos and realize, as if I hadn’t already, that war stinks.

From there I went to a spa near the Reunification Palace. I never could really figure out this place. It appeared to also offer cosmetic medical procedures, but no one spoke English so I couldn’t ask. Anyway, I thought I communicated that I wanted a full-body massage, but I found myself sitting in a chair getting acupressure on my feet. I really don’t like this at all – those sticks pressing so hard into my soles I could jump out of the chair if I wasn’t so stubborn and refused to show signs of pain. The therapist did finish up with a back massage, which included a first for me – walking on the back. The woman stood on my back, placed her hands on the ceiling and began walking. Well, that was interesting.

I went nearby to a crowded Vietnamese restaurant for lunch and then back to the hotel to relax before dinner, which I took in one of the hotel restaurants.

On my final day in Saigon, I had thought I might go to the Cu Chi Tunnels, but instead opted for a day of pampering at the hotel spa, lounging at the pool and finally drinks at the Saigon Saigon Bar on the roof of the Caravelle Hotel.

The Saigon Saigon Bar is a great place to sit and watch the world go by. I probably could have stayed for hours. Happy hour is from 5-6 p.m., if I remember right, and there is a band on Monday nights. The best entertainment though is watching the traffic. It’s really an amazing sight. And what I don’t understand is why no one seems to get the slightest bit stressed. Motorbikes would come within inches of each other and the drivers would laugh and wave. Cars would nearly take out a bike and no one seemed to mind. I sipped my martini and wondered why the drivers here had such a carefree approach, while drivers in the US would be yelling and gesturing in similar situations. Was it the morning tai chi? A lack of awareness to the dangers of vehicles? Simply the Vietnamese way? I dunno. But it was certainly interesting to watch and ponder while sipping drinks served by women in short Santa suits from the top of a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City.

The end.

Post script ... one interesting tidbit on the flights home ... the man who sold me the gong wrapped it in cardboard that came from who knows where. I carried it on and it went through the metal detector fine, although at an angle, in Saigon. In Hong Kong, where they re-X-ray everything, it wouldn't fit. The screeners took it aside and swabbed it. It came back positive. They swabbed it again and again it came back positive. I offered to take the cardboard off, but they said not to. At this point, they wanted my name and flight number. I fully expected an additional screening of the gong at the gate, but nothing further transpired. So did they just want to know who was responsible if my gong turned out to be something else? Strange.

...The end...Congratulations, you did it ^

Thank you for writing this TR—I learned a lot of new things.

Great report Sheri!

My recollection (which as I get older, I question daily) from my Saigon trip in late 1995, is that the war museum I visited twice had a cheeky name, something like:

Museum of American Atrocities

Is this the same place? At the time it was fascinating. My travel partner on that trip had a hard time holding it together when we were there. He was in Saigon during 1968 for a month and and then in Thailand for a year, as a fresh out of medical school airforce doctor. The exhibits brought back some ugly memories.

My recollection (which as I get older, I question daily) from my Saigon trip in late 1995, is that the war museum I visited twice had a cheeky name, something like:

Museum of American Atrocities

Is this the same place?

Yes, you're correct. Now it's called The War Remnants Museum. It's a difficult place to go to. As you probably recall, there's a wall of photos dedicated to photojournalists who died in the war. A good many of the photos I'd seen before, but didn't realize that many were taken just prior to the photographer being killed. One section that wouldn't have been there in '95 is a rather damning look at Vietnam vet and former Senator Bob Kerry (although it identifies him as a current senator, IIRC). There are graphic descriptions and photos of the killings of civilians in Thanh Phong that he had some degree of involvement in juxtaposed with photos of Kerry smiling.

Excellent report ^^

I didn't realize you were so superficial :)

While I have not posted in at least a couple of years, I remain an avid reader of FlyerTalk. Having visited Vietnam off and on over the past 8 years (about 9 or 10 trips) I found your report fascinating and informative.

If you have the opportunity, next time get away from Hanoi and Saigon. Head to Nha Trang, Da Nang and Hue, which are very peaceful and relaxing as well as much lower in cost. Hanoi and Saigon have escalated in price with the significant influx of foreigners, especially Americans.

I'll share my favorite Vietnam story and then leave the rest to your imagination. Three of us were strolling on the beach just north of Nha Trang in mid-afternoon and a young girl (turned out she was 13) walked up with a traditional carry stick holding a bucket of accoutrements on one end and a net filled with fresh clams, shrimp and crab on the other end. While I realize you are a vegetarian, this combination proved irresistable to us so we ordered two dozen @ of the clams and shrimp and one dozen of the crab along with a 6 pack of beer. The girl took our food up to a beach side restaurant where they steamed the seafood while she gathered the beer, glasses and huge ice cubes (Note, it truly IS necessary to drink beer over ice in the heat of a Vietnam summer!!). She then proceeded to shuck, shell and clean the clams, shrimp and crab and prepared the most simple and wonderful dipping sauce from lime juice, salt and pepper^ ^ .

We enjoyed the next hour and a half of leisurely eating and drinking immensely and when we were ready to leave she only asked for a total of 40,000 Dong (the exchange rate at the time was approximately 14,000 to the USD)!! We handed her 100,000 Dong and needless to say still felt as though we had taken advantage.

In sum, you are very correct in noting that the people of Vietnam are wonderfully friendly and helpful. While Saigon does indeed have its rough spots, as does any large city, even there you will find more assistance than most anywhere else in the world.

Happy travels, and I hope you do get the opportunity to visit the more remote areas of Vietnam and take in more of the beauty of the country, both past and present!

Most excellent tale of travel and adventure! Thank you. :)

Now - where the heck to you store a 3' gong as a carryon? :confused: :)

CEB: Thanks for sharing a great story. Yes, next time I will definitely go to more remote parts of Vietnam, but my time, unfortuantely, was rather limited this trip.


Now - where the heck to you store a 3' gong as a carryon? :confused: :)

Why in the upstairs closet on the 744, of course. :)

Why in the upstairs closet on the 744, of course. :)

Cool. Didn't know they were that deep.

I enjoyed your reports. My husband and I spent two weeks in Vietnam last year on an Overseas Adventure Travel tour. There were 14 of us in the group and our program director knocked on people's doors and asked if we could see their homes/apartments/yards everywhere and they said yes! In the U.S, people would call the police! The Vietnamese people were very friendly and generous. Crossing the streets without faltering while the motorbikes zoom around you does take some getting used to!!!

You mentioned "Hill Tribes". Are you referreing to the Montgnards? My understanding is that they did not fair very well with the new government after the war ended (in fact they were resistant to any central government throughout their history). I'm not sure what happened to them as a people. There were rumors that they continued with an on/off civil war for years afterwards. Were they wiped out, finally assimilated, or just left alone to their own devices which is what historically has proved to be the best remedy for them?

M8

The hill people of Vietnam, or "Montagnard" the name given to them by the French colonists, continue to suffer grievously under the Communist goverment of Vietnam.

For those interested, you can read more at:

http://hrw.org/english/docs/2006/06/14/vietna13542.htm
http://www.internationalrelations.house.gov/archives/108/mar100604.htm
http://www.samford.edu/lillyhumanrights/papers/Lewis_Christianity.pdf
http://www.humanevents.com/article.php?id=7780
http://www.alertnet.org/thefacts/reliefresources/109172081017.htm
http://www.persecution.org/suffering/newsdetail.php?newscode=3797

Thanks for the wonderful TR and photos.

You have shown superficial can be a good thing!

Two superficial reports are better than one.

And, I'm headed to Vietnam this summer so it's time to reread all the Saigon shopping advice.