Trip Reports - Pacific pampering is back! UA/SQ/LX/TG/SQ/CX/JL to Asia in first and business class.

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, and fellow FlyerTalkers :D. Once again we’re off across the vast Pacific in high style, testing the limits of luxury aboard United Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Swiss, Thai, Cathay Pacific and Japan Airlines. Well okay, United lags a little behind in terms of luxury, but as you’ll see, they can really pull it together when they want to. We’ll also take a peak at how Swiss treats Star Alliance Gold customers when a flight is oversold, wander aimlessly through Bangkok’s new but poorly signposted Suvarnabhumi Airport, and see how many times we can be pulled over by machine gun toting police on the road into Colombo. So recline to a comfortable position, order that second beverage, and settle in for the ride …

UA142 / Los Angeles-San Francisco
Boeing 757-200 / Seat 2A / United First
Scheduled 1059-1221 / Actual 1055-1247

It was less expensive to do a one way car rental between my home near San Diego and LAX than to park for 17 days. Southern California traffic being as unpredictable as it is, I had allowed three hours for the drive, just in case. Of course that particular day it was smooth sailing, and I covered the 120 miles in less than two hours.

That left me plenty of time to stand in the lengthy line at the United premium check-in area in Terminal 7 at LAX (it has recently relocated to Terminal 6 ... again.) It took me almost 40 minutes to check in for a simple LAX-SFO-HNL routing because there was only one agent checking in United First. And I was lucky. I dread to think what the United Business customers were experiencing since there was only one check in agent for them, too. I understand that they have cut back on staff at LAX, but this is ridiculous. Upon seeing the length of the line, I asked dragon-lady enforcer whether I could use an Easy Check-in machine since I had no bags to check, was only traveling to Honolulu, and there were 6 open machines with an agent standing behind them doing nothing. She said that since I had “chosen” to have a paper ticket, I would need to stand in the paper ticket line. I informed here that my itinerary was not e-ticket eligible, so it was not by choice, but she just looked at me blankly. :mad:

When I finally reached the counter, the agent advised that I was double booked on UA930 at 1034AM as well as UA142 at 1059AM to San Francisco, and started to lecture me about it. I asked her to kindly check the history of the record, and sure enough, when I called the evening before to move myself to the earlier departure, UA930, the agent at United double booked me! The reason I had done this was because it was raining in San Francisco that day, and I wanted a cushion so as not to miss my connection to Honolulu. Her only response was that I was “lucky” to even had a seat. My journey was not off to a good start, but it wasn’t worth an argument, and I was, after all, headed to beautiful Hawaii for dinner with friends, so I refused to allow two grumpy United employees to spoil it from the get go.

The actual flight was uneventful. The usual round of drinks by a pleasant crew, some horrid snack mix, and 30 minutes of circling to land in San Francisco, but nonetheless comfortably in time for my connecting flight to Honolulu.

UA75 / San Francisco-Honolulu
Boeing 767-300 / Seat 3F / United First
Scheduled 1350-1724 / Actual 1444-1755

A warm welcome aboard was offered by the senior ladies that day. I settled into my extra narrow first class seat with a plastic cup of iced water and patiently waited as seemingly all 210 United Economy passengers passed my seat and hit me with their carryon baggage. But as is always the case with the Honolulu flights, everyone was in a fine mood, looking forward to leaving the gloomy weather in the Bay Area behind us for balmy temperatures and palm trees in a few hours. The door was closed five minutes early, and the captain had announced an anticipated early arrival into Honolulu, but then they decided to rearrange the entire cargo hold, and we took a one hour delay. The crew put NBC In-flight on to keep people amused, and the time passed quickly.

The purser that day, Mary Rose, was absolutely one of United’s best! She personally went around to each customer and greeted them, offering a special thank you to the UGS and 1K customers aboard. Service began about 40 minutes after takeoff since the captain had requested the flight attendants to remain seated during climb out with the bad weather. United crams 34 seats into the first class cabin of this high density configuration aircraft they use for Hawaii, and service can be erratic if not coordinated properly. Mary Rose’s crew was on it. Warm nuts and drinks were offered first. Then a small appetizer consisting of a shrimp and tomato skewer with the second round of beverages. During this time, Mary Rose was taking lunch orders, asking for first and second preference between a beef filet and grilled fish. No printed menus were offered. As I normally do, I informed her that I preferred the beef, but really didn’t care if she needed it to keep another customer happy. It’s all airplane food anyway ;). I got the beef after all, and it was surprisingly tasty. I also noticed that they offered sparkling wine and Mai Tais on the Hawaii service. Along with the shrimp skewer appetizer, this seemed to be an increase in service since the last time I flew this route about two years ago. I don't know why, but I can't for the life of me remember what dessert was. Probably ice cream sundaes.

We arrived into Honolulu about a half hour late, but without checked luggage I was on the Alamo shuttle and into my $13 Alamo car (bid on Priceline) in no time at all. As is always the case at Alamo, they started the check-in conversation with, "what type of car do you want to drive today?" To which I replied, "the cheap, small one I reserved," already knowing the up-sell was coming. Wouldn't I prefer a full size? Perhaps an SUV? No and no. As is often the case at Alamo (and other rental companies) they had no sub-compacts available. In fact, they had hardly anything available at all. The agent said I would have to pay to upgrade or wait for a sub-compact to come in, to which I replied firmly but politely that this was not my fault, and that I fully expected a complimentary upgrade to whatever car they chose, and expected to be in said car within the next five minutes. Three minutes later I was leaving the lot in a brand new Pontiac (?) Torrent SUV, and motoring towards the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani, where I was pleasantly surprised to be upgraded from the usual lower floor, parking lot view room they give travel agents, to an ocean view room on the 29th floor. Very nice! Time for a quick wander along Waikiki before heading out to dinner, humming the “Pina Colada Song.”

I woke up early with the sunrise and took a quick walk to Waikiki Beach and back, nursing a Starbucks latte, before heading for the airport, feeling somewhat nostalgic about leaving my birthplace, and a city I had lived in for several years, behind after such a brief visit. The drive took only 15 minutes at that time of the morning, at which point I realized that the gas tank on the SUV was showing 3/4 full. How can that be? I had driven a total of 22 miles! I put in $5 worth of gas (which isn’t much at Hawaii prices) and took the car back, fully expecting a confrontation with Alamo, but I was presented with a zero balance receipt, no questions asked. Whew!

The Alamo shuttle dropped me at the United check-in area, where one person was waiting in the United First line, and seven people were in the United Business line. They had only a single check-in agent handling first and business class, and she was helping all the first class customers first, to the understandable irritation of all the people standing in the business class line. While I was standing in line, a gentleman tapped me on the shoulder to ask about my Flyertalk bag tag ^. He looked very familiar, and it suddenly clicked that we had sat next to one another on a Chicago-San Francisco flight last year, and enjoyed a most interesting conversation. I also remember how cute he was ;). But apparently unavailable, since he was seeing his girlfriend off to Seoul that morning. Small world, though.

I approached the United First desk to a chorus of groans from the United Business line, and quickly had my boarding pass in hand, as well as instructions for the fast track lane at security, which turned out to be a joke, since all the flight crews use that line, too, taking priority. It was a pretty dismal performance by the TSA that they only had two checkpoints open at a peak hour of the day. United alone has flights to Tokyo, Osaka, Los Angeles and San Francisco early in the day. All on wide bodies. It took 35 minutes to clear security, and I headed up to the Red Carpet Club for a morning pick-me-up Bloody Mary with a fantastic view of the ramp and active runway. No drink chits at this Red Carpet Club. You simply show your international boarding pass to the bar tender. The flight was called at 9AM, and by the time I gathered my things, finished my very spicy but delicious libation and headed downstairs, the gate was empty! Either the flight must be extremely light today, or Honolulu ground staff extremely efficient. It was the latter. Every single seat on the flight was occupied.


UA879 / Honolulu-Tokyo
Boeing 777-200 / Seat 2J / United First Suite
Scheduled 0940-1325+1 / Actual 0933-1244+1

I showed my boarding pass at the door (2L) and was (rather curtly, I thought) told to turn left. A pointed finger giving emphasis that the first class cabin was “that way.” Prior to stowing my bags and settling in, I placed the seat all the way into the bed position, then back up again. The seats are so old now that you have to make sure everything is in working order before the aircraft departs, or suffer the consequences later. Everything was in order, or at least functioning. The seat was dirty looking, the video screen hung to one side, and there were scuff marks all over the place, but it was my comfy home for the next eight hours, and I was going to make the best of it. Rollerboard into the overhead, pillows into the handy bin next to the seat, blanket onto the ottoman in front of the seat, plastic glass of sparkling wine in hand, and I was ready to relax for 8 hours. Menus, noise reduction headsets and amenity kits were nicely positioned in the seating area, and the Purser came over to introduce himself and say, “We haven’t seen you on this route for a long time, Mr. sftrvlr. Welcome back.” A nice touch. Bodes well for service I thought to myself. Turns out I was wrong about the service, but I’ll get to that. The captain came on to welcome everyone, say that Channel 9 would be available, and that we had favorable winds to Narita for our crossing. We pushed back several minutes early, taxied for ages, made a rolling turn onto the Reef Runway, and a hard right turn after takeoff, nose pointed to Japan.

During climb out, we had tremendous views of Kauai and Ni’ihau, through surprisingly cloudless skies. The captain made an announcement about the view, and several passengers got up to look out the right side of the aircraft, despite the fact that the seatbelt sign was still illuminated. Even more surprisingly, the cabin crew made no effort to have passengers return to their seats.

Service began about 20 minutes after takeoff with warm nuts and beverages. I indulged in another Bloody Mary as the Purser took my meal selection first, and then made his way around the cabin in order of Mileage Plus status. I personally prefer this method to the first choice/second choice method. It seems easier. The menu was as follows:

to begin

Join us in a sampling of appetizers:
Hot wild mushroom and goat cheese strudel with Madeira herb sauce
Balik-style smoked salmon with caramelized red onion compote
Yukon potato and cheddar chowder

Salad
Fresh seasonal greens
Country ranch or balsamic Dijon vinaigrette

main course

Pan-seared filet mignon with port wine sauce

Pecan-crusted chicken with black peppercorn cream sauce

The above entrees include your choice of:
Twice baked cheddar potato, rice pilaf with caramelized shallots or steamed rice
Green beans with red pepper and marjoram or a mixed vegetable sauté

Shiitake mushroom shrimp cake with sweet chili sauce
Chow mein noodles and kalian with red peppers

Please advise the flight attendant if you prefer to have sauce served on the side

Japanese Obento selection
An appetizer of crabmeat in layered eggs, shrimp sushi, chicken sansho-yaki, scallions with miso paste, broiled tuna and cha-soba noodles
A main course of steamed snapper with five kinds of mixed vegetables, beef tenderloin with mushrooms, hakusai with fried bean curd
Steamed rice with sesame seeds
Served with green tea

Items in this meal may contain traces of MSG

dessert

To complete your dining experience:
Ice cream with sundae toppings
Cheese selection: Kerrygold Vintage Cheddar, Port Salut, Wensleydale with cranberry
Fresh strawberries with brown sugar sour cream dip

prior to arrival

Stir-fry chicken with mushrooms and oyster sauce
Fried chow mein noodles and kalian

or

Fresh seasonal fruit plate with creamy yogurt

When making reservations on future flights to and from Japan, you may secure the Obento meal service by preordering

The white wines offered included Pommery Grand Cru 1995 Champagne, Bouchard Beaune du Chateau Premier Cru (white) Burgundy and Wild Horse Chardonnay 2004 Central Coast. The reds consisted of Sticks Shiraz 2003 Yarra Valley and Brancott Classic Pinot Noir 2004 Marlborough. Gekkeikan Sake Daiginjo and Sandeman Founders Reserve Porto rounded out the list.

After only one round of drinks with no refills, tables were individually laid from the cart. The appetizers rolled around next, starting on the port side with the A seats and the center section, and ending with the J seats. I was next to last to be served, and despite the fact that there were several portions of each appetizer on the trolley, my request for both the salmon and the goat cheese strudel was denied. They were only “allowed” to serve one or the other :rolleyes:. I chose the salmon, which was delicious. Unfortunately, neither bread nor wine was offered, and I sat there staring at my food until the Purser came back to ask if everything was OK. I reminded him about bread and wine, and asked for a glass of white. He asked which one I would like, and I asked which were on offer that day. This seemed to bother him somewhat as he made his way the entire 11 feet back to the galley and rummaged through the drinks cart, returning with a completely frozen bottle of the white Burgundy, and an almost frozen bottle of the Chardonnay. I was informed that I could wait for the Burgundy to thaw, or take the Chardonnay. Not being a fan of Chardonnay, and becoming rather annoyed with the rushed service (or lack thereoff) on an eight hour flight, I asked to see the wine list from United Business, only to be told that they didn’t have enough wine to “share” with United First. I guess my mind was made up for me then, wasn’t it?

The Shiitake mushroom shrimp cakes turned out to be a disaster. Rubbery and tasteless with a horribly sweet chili sauce that didn’t taste of chilies at all. Washed down with an over-oaked California Chardonnay. The Purser now made a big fuss about coming by my seat every two minutes with the bread basket asking if I needed more, but he wasn’t a good enough actor to hide his disdain for a paying customer who had dared to ask that the meal service be conducted to the standards one would expect in an international First Class cabin. I finished with the cheese selection, served far too cold to have any flavor, and a glass of Port wine.

Shortly thereafter, water bottles were offered and the crew retired to the galley, behind the (surprisingly) closed curtain, until a couple of hours before landing at Narita. I napped for a few hours, then watched the sophomoric comedy, “You, Me & Dupree” starring a Matt Dillon, who’s aging well, I might add. I declined the pre-arrival meal service since the catering quality had been so appalling thus far that I didn’t want to try anything else. That and I knew I had a 5 hour layover in Narita where I would probably nibble on the rather tempting snacks in the United International First lounge.

We arrived about 45 minutes early into Tokyo, and were the first United flight to pull up to the terminal. The Purser was all fake smiles as I stood waiting for the door to open, and his chitchat merely came across as insincere and forced. Or maybe he really was happy now that the passengers were getting off. United doesn’t need a person like him working the international premium cabins. This was just a bad experience all around.

Since we were so early into Narita, I zipped through security and was the first person into the lounge. I was offered a coupon at the reception desk inviting me to use either the United International First Class lounge, or the ANA First Class lounge. I was happy enough where I was, and remained there for about four hours, filling the time with a long hot shower, a few gin and tonics, and some small bites. The liquor selection is decidedly mid-shelf, but the food was varied and delicious. They offered soba noodles, assorted sushi, finger sandwiches with things like smoked salmon and roast beef, crudités with dipping sauces, cheese and crackers, cocktail snack mix, and a variety of cakes and cookies. The showers are stocked with Crabtree & Evelyn products.

About 90 minutes before the scheduled departure to Singapore, I left the lounge to wander the shops, and explore the newly opened parts of the terminal. There was a MIAT Mongolian Airlines flight leaving, and the gate area was full of exotic looking folks, preparing to board a tiny Boeing 737 for the flight to Incheon, and onto Ulan Bator. That’s about an 8 hour journey on a 737 … yikes! It’s unusual to see such a small aircraft at Narita since almost all the movements are wide bodies. I noticed that the United flight to Bangkok was cancelled, and the line at the transfer desk was long as they protected everyone on Thai, ANA and JAL. I imagine there were a good few folks who ended up in middle seats in economy. Not a pleasant move from their upgraded seats in United Business. Tokyo being Tokyo, boarding of the onward flight to Singapore was smooth and efficient. We were buttoned up and ready to go 10 minutes before scheduled departure.

UA803 / Tokyo-Singapore
Boeing 777-200 / Seat 2J / United First Suite
Scheduled 1730-2359 / Actual 1730-2324

This sector had a crew based at the newly reopened Singapore domicile, and what a pleasure it was! The service was on par with Singapore Airlines. The uniform is slightly different, with a dark blue shirt. They also had a full complement of flight attendants (16, I believe) for the completely full aircraft. Sparkling wine was offered in plastic cups, with refills as necessary. Noise canceling headsets and individual video tapes were offered, followed by eye masks, socks and earplugs, then a selection of newspapers. Menus were next. Even though we closed up early, we did not push back until 1730, right on schedule. The captain announced that Channel 9 was available, and that he anticipated an early arrival into Singapore. A short taxi and immediate takeoff found us airborne and southwest bound by 1744.

Service began as soon as the double chime sounded. Warm nuts and cocktails (I miss the Japanese snack mix they used to offer within Asia.) I was addressed by name each and every time, and refills were offered on both the drinks and the nuts. During this time, the Purser came around to introduce himself, acknowledging by 1K status, and thanking me for my business. He took dinner orders and recommended the Thai chicken curry. I took his advice, and I’m glad I did. The menu was as follows:

On today’s flight, you may choose our traditional dinner, served in courses, or enjoy our Express Dine service – a complete meal served at the time of your choosing so you can maximize your time while on board. Please inform the flight attendant of your choice.

to begin

Shrimp cocktail, tuna nigiri and vegetable sushi

Fresh seasonal greens
Roquefort or Asian citrus dressing

main course

Savory braised lamb shank with mushrooms and onions
Mashed potato with chives and green beans with carrot batonnets

Thai chicken curry with pumpkin
Chicken rice and green beans

Poached sea perch with seafood chili broth
Chinese egg noodles and baby bok choy

Warm eggplant and turkey bruschetta with fire roasted red pepper sauce and a creamy spring vegetable soup

Please advise the flight attendant if you prefer to have sauce served on the side

Express Dine
Today’s Express Dine features your choice of any of the above entrees, fresh seasonal greens with Asian sesame ginger dressing and Eli’s brown butter apple tart for dessert

dessert

Haagen-Dazs ice cream with sundae toppings

The wines offered included Pommery Grand Cru 1995 Champagne and a New Zealand sauvignon blanc that was not on the menu. I’m not sure what reds were carried. I stuck with the New Zealand white, and it was acceptable if a little on the warm side.

The service was impeccable. It was amusing to listen to the flight attendant trying her best to pronounce the word “Roquefort” when offering the salad dressing. It just wouldn’t come out properly no matter how many times she said it, and her cheeks reddened more each time she tried. It was funny in a charming way. I had the Asian citrus to spare her another mouth contortion :D. The Thai chicken curry was the best main course I’ve had on United in ages! Beautifully plated with a mound of rice in the center of the plate, surrounded by the chicken curry, pumpkin and green beans. It was just spicy enough so as not to overpower the wine, and it reminded me of Singapore Airlines. Both the food and the service. Kudos to United for reopening the Singapore base. Now if only they could staff all the trans-Pacific flights.

We arrived early into Singapore after a wonderful flight. I was sorry to leave, but made my way through Terminal One to the Ambassador Transit Hotel for the night.

Well folks, we’ve made it to Singapore. Upward and onward to Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Phuket and Colombo in the next installment … stay tuned!

Enjoying the report so far :D Hopefully you are using the last of the last CMB cheap tickets to your advantage :)

Great start !!! Loving it.. keep it coming PLEASE..:cool:

Enjoying the report so far :D Hopefully you are using the last of the last CMB cheap tickets to your advantage :)

Indeed I am! This was the return portion of my United ticket issued on the old "D" fare that allowed stopovers.

wow what a trip so far.

Excellent report so far sftrvlr.

Given the dedication and hardwork of many UA employees, it's disheartening when one has to experience a FA like you had from HNL to NRT. Unbelievable!

But then I saw NRT-SIN, and like you I don't think I could rave enough about UA FAs on this route. They are simply amazing and I am glad you had a good experience on this flight as well.

Looking forward to your next installments.

I totally agree with you about the poor quality of the UA premium staff at LAX, i had a similarly poor experience a few weeks ago, they were by a long way the worst i encountered anywhere on my world trip.

Great report so far. Your experience from LAX to NRT is why I left UA years ago. I am glad that the SIN based crew provides great service and style. Can't wait for the next installment.^

And on we go ...

After a restful night at the Ambassador Transit Hotel airside at Changi, I checked out at 9AM, and made the leisurely stroll from Terminal 1 to Terminal 2, bypassing the connections counter, and proceeding to the Silverkris Lounge to check in for my flight on the Shuttle to Kuala Lumpur. This is one of the last remaining "pool" services in the world where revenue is shared and tickets are fully interchangeable between Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines. Flights are frequent, and the first class fare is a bargain at around US$350 round trip. SQ actually operates a 2 cabin 777 on the route, but the premium cabin is marketed as First Class, allowing entry into the first class section of the Silverkris Lounge where the food and drink are always delectable. Likewise in Kuala Lumpur, one is allowed entry into the first class section of the Malaysia Airlines Golden Lounge if flying on MH, which I considered to be the world's best first class lounge until the advent of the Lufthansa First Class Terminal at Frankfurt Rhein Main.

After declining the invitation to travel on the earlier departure, I settled into the Business Centre at one of the dozen or so computer stations to catch up on email and FlyerTalk. The lounge was packed at this point, but I knew from experience that a bank of flights would soon depart and things would quiet down, allowing me to find a more private space to relax before my flight. For those who haven't had the pleasure, the Silverkris Lounge in Singapore is one of the best in the world. Enormous although at times over crowded, it offers the perfect haven for rest and relaxation before your flight. Not that you really need to "get away" from Changi Airport.

Check-in is available in the lounge for onward journeys. Showers are available. There is a separate smoking lounge for those who need to feed the addiction. There’s a relaxation/quiet room with lounge chairs, a TV room with lounge chairs, and self service bar area with mid-shelf booze, as well as a full service bar that opens in the afternoon. The food area has a cooking station that is staffed at various times of the day offering cooked to order items. The buffet is stocked with hot appetizers as well as main courses and soup. That morning the appetizers were spring rolls, vegetable dumplings and curry puffs. There was rice porridge in the soup section, and tomato sauce pasta or stir fried tofu and vegetables for a main course. In addition, there were cheeses, salads, fresh fruits, pastries and ice cream. Oh my! I had some congee and green tea.

My flight was leaving from F60, which is about as far away from the Silverkris Lounge as you can get, and they made an announcement reminding passengers of this. I left about an hour before scheduled departure to wander the shops and have a leisurely stroll to the gate. As I was passing the shop that sells all things Singapore-related, I glimpsed quite a sight from the corner of my eye. Is that behemoth parked over there an A380?! Can't be. It's not in service yet, is it? On closer inspection, it was indeed! The airplane was making test flights around Asia, and happened to be in Singapore the day I was there. It was shorter than I expected, and rather ugly IMHO. The ramp rats appeared to be testing equipment such as baggage conveyors, food service trucks, etc. Here are a couple of photos:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/pictures?a=67b0de21b32180920574&sid=2EcN2TJq0YuRA

Being the nosy FlyerTalker that I am, I walked over to the gate to see how close I could get. The gate area was filled with crew members from various airlines, a bunch of executive types in suits and some media folks. I recognized flight attendant uniforms from Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines. Strangely though, I passed two pilots, one female, one male, both captains, carrying their flight bags discussing the performance of the aircraft. They both had what sounded like American accents, and the uniform looked very much like American Airlines, but I don’t think any US passenger carrier has ordered the A380. I wonder what airline they worked for. A few minutes later, as I was waiting to clear security at gate F60, an announcement was made over the PA system about the A380 “experience” starting here in Singapore, and inviting travelers to come over and take a look at the airplane.

SQ108 / Singapore-Kuala Lumpur
Boeing 777-200 / Seat 15K / First Class
Scheduled 1235-1330 / Actual 1247-1339

I noticed that Singapore is now requiring you to remove your laptop computer to have it sent through separately, just like here in the US. I don’t recall that before. As usual, the flight was packed. Gate F60 seems almost an afterthought to the terminal. It appears to have been added on after the fact, so you walk down a glass corridor quite a way, and then turn into a very long jet-bridge to board the aircraft. Both the first and second doors were used for boarding. I was greeted at 1L and shown to my seat in what is really the Raffles Class cabin with the intra-Asia seat configuration (i.e. not the Spacebed.) Hot towels were offered, as well as an assortment of newspapers and magazines, and various fruit juices or water. No champagne on Shuttle flights. We were a little late boarding and pushing back due to the late arrival of the inbound aircraft, but the taxi and takeoff were quick, so we ended up arriving only a few minutes behind schedule. What absolutely amazes me is that they manage to serve a meal on a 35 minute flight! There was a choice of a smoked salmon salad or a fruit plate. I wasn’t hungry so had a gin and tonic instead.

The Kuala Lumpur International Airport is fabulous. Well designed with lots of natural light and open spaces. Fast track forms are provided for first class passengers allowing you to bypass the lengthy queue for foreign passports at Immigration. I was through and onboard the KLIA Ekspres train in 15 minutes, which at 70 Malaysian Ringits (about US$20) round trip is a bargain. It takes only 30 minutes to cover the 70 or so kilometers into town, and deposits you at the KL Sentral station where you can grab a cab to almost anywhere for another 10-15 Ringits. Or connect to the monorail or subway. I checked into the Renaissance Kuala Lumpur, and then checked right back out again. Dreadful hotel! I called up the Regent and booked a club level room for 410 Ringits per night, about US$114, which included complimentary internet access, breakfast in the lounge and evening cocktails and snacks. Malaysia is a bargain! After a couple of days shopping and meeting up with an old friend from school for some superb dim sum and excellent Indian food, it was back to the KLIA Ekspres and out to KLIA for my return flight to Singapore, where I would connect to Swiss up to Bangkok and meet up with fellow FlyerTalker mjmsf.

SQ113 / Kuala Lumpur-Singapore
Boeing 777-200 / Seat 16K / First Class
Scheduled 1700-1755 / Actual 1717-1814

Check-in was a breeze with nobody in line for first class (or any other class for that matter) and I was soon on my way to the Silverkris Lounge to wait for the flight. There was nobody at the front desk so I just wandered in, took a quick look around, and left to look for another Star Alliance Gold lounge. The Silverkris Lounge was the poorest one I’ve ever seen. Small in size and very full with minimal food and drink. :td: I noticed the Thai Royal Orchid Lounge across the way, and asked to take a look. It was far superior at about three times the size, with a better selection of food and only two passengers present. I settled in with a gin and tonic and a couple of spring rolls from the selection that included vegetarian samosas, pasta with tomato sauce and mini pizzas. There were also finger sandwiches with egg mayonnaise or vegetables, and a variety of cakes and cookies. Not a dish of flesh in sight. Certainly not a buffet for carnivores. I had an entire corner of the lounge to myself and sat for an hour or so watching the (not very busy) ramp. KLIA appears to be the most under-utilized airport in Asia.

I left about an hour before departure time to wander the shops for a bit before proceeding through security and into the lounge. The inbound aircraft arrived at 1655 so it was obvious we weren’t going to make our 1700 departure time. No announcement was made to tell us what was going on. I must commend Singapore Airlines for managing to turn a completely full 777-200 in 30 minutes, though. Quite a feat. When they announced boarding, they asked everyone to please take their seats as quickly as possible, and everyone obliged. The door was closed 11 minutes after boarding began. That would NEVER happen in the US. The Singapore Girls and Guys serving first class appeared as calm and unruffled as ever, providing the entire pre-departure service with hot towels, newspapers and magazines, and a beverage selection. And once again a meal was offered on the 40 minute journey back to Singapore. This time it was a chicken wrap or a salad. I again chose a gin and tonic.

The level of service on these short shuttle hops simply floors me. I flew SQ both directions this time because I needed miles to make 1K again this year, but next time I will go back to taking Singapore Airlines SIN-KUL, and Malaysia Airlines KUL-SIN. The service is comparable on both airlines (MH may have just a slight edge) but the Malaysia Airlines Golden Lounge at KUL far, far outdoes the meager offerings of the Silverkris Lounge.

We arrived into Singapore just a few minutes behind schedule, and I made the long, slow walk from one end of the airport to the other to check in for my Swiss flight up to Bangkok. It is literally the farthest place to get to from the Singapore Airlines F gates in Terminal 2, but I had plenty of time, so didn’t bother with the Skytrain. I enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the concourses with some people and plane watching, passing gate after gate with departures to distant corners of the world and remembering how much travel still thrills me.

I approached the transfer desk for Swiss at the beginning of the C concourse in Terminal One. There was nobody in line and still more than two hours until scheduled departure. The agent tapped away furiously for a few minutes, then handed me a card and said,

“Here’s your standby card, Mr. sftrvlr. Come back in about an hour and we’ll let you know.”

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

“Excuse me?”

“Your reservation shows that you are on standby for tonight’s flight.”

“Um, no. My CONFIRMATION shows that I’m CONFIRMED on tonight’s flight, and my e-ticket shows OK in the status box.”

“Hmmmmm … that’s not what is showing in the computer.”

“Well I think you need to check again. Could you look at the history and tell me when I was removed from the flight?”

“It shows that you were never confirmed. Where did you buy the ticket?”

“Swiss.com. Here’s the receipt and a copy of the e-ticket.”

“Hmmmmm ...” (typing away again.) “Unfortunately, we’re overbooked by 7 in business class this evening, and 19 in economy.”

“What about first?”

“Over by 1.”

“I’m sorry, but this isn’t acceptable. I need to be in Bangkok this evening. Can you put me on Thai or Singapore Airlines? They both have departures leaving shortly.”

“I’m afraid they are both fully booked this evening. It looks like I may be able to get you on Finnair in economy.”

“I don’t want to fly Finnair, and I don’t want to fly in economy. I have a business class ticket, and I want to stay on Star Alliance. I can’t believe this is how you treat your Star Alliance Gold customers.”

“You’re Star Gold, Mr. sftrvlr?”

“Yes. Here’s my card. It’s also printed on the confirmation email from Swiss that you have in front of you.”

“Oh. That’s not noted in the record.”

“Are you kidding me? Are you SURE you’re looking at MY reservation? Is this one of those jokes like they do on Candid Camera?” :confused:

“No sir. I mean, yes sir.”

"WHAT?"

"I mean, no sir, it's not a joke, and yes sir, I am looking at YOUR reservation."

“Well we need to get a supervisor involved at this point because something is not right.”

“Could you please take a seat over there and leave your documents with me?”

“Not unless you plan to get me on the flight tonight. I don’t have time to sit around here waiting while there are other flights I may be able to get on.”

“Mr. sftrvlr. We WILL get you on our flight this evening. I promise. If you will just have a seat for a few minutes, I’ll be back with you shortly.”

“Thank you.”

Twenty minutes of twiddling my thumbs and I was approached by another lady, apparently the Swiss supervisor. She apologized profusely and handed me a boarding pass for 6G in business class and a lounge invitation to the SATS Premier Lounge. I asked what the problem had been, and she merely said it was some sort of a “mix-up,” offering another apology for the inconvenience. I felt like saying that a more appropriate apology would be a seat in first class, but refrained, and went on my (now) merry way to the lounge in search of gin.

What an improvement since they refurbished the SATS Premier Lounge in Terminal One. It’s now light and airy, well lit, and has a distinct Scandinavian look about it. Light wood finishes and multi-colored leather chairs. There are a couple of televisions tuned to CNN and ESPN, ten (?) computer stations with telephones using Skype for VOIP phone calls, and a separate first class section at the rear of the lounge. A large buffet area offered a self service bar with a reasonable selection of spirits, wines, beers, soft drinks, juices and water. Unfortunately, the food area was almost completely bare. There were 2 finger sandwiches, a couple of wilted salads and some small bowls of fruit. I was actually feeling a bit hungry at this point, and walked up to reception to let them know that the cupboard was bare. They immediately went into the kitchen area and came out moments later with bar snacks (nuts, chips, etc.), two new baskets of finger sandwiches, fresh salads with smoked salmon or cold chicken, and a selection of cheese and crackers. This was followed by a pot of vegetable soup, noodles with Shanghai sauce, and spicy stir fried garbanzo beans (not a good idea to feed people who would later be crammed into an aluminum tube together.) :eek: A few snacks and a couple of bevvies later it was time to head to the gate. The lounge was almost full at this point since so many carriers that use it have evening departures.

LX183 / Singapore-Bangkok
Airbus A340-300 / Seat 6G / Business Class
Scheduled 2120-2245 / Actual 2114-2240

They only had one security checkpoint open at gate C26, and the line was lengthy. By the time I got through, the gate was empty and they were making final boarding calls. This is not the norm at Changi. I walked right onboard and was greeted at doorway 2L by the Purser (I think) who directed me through the galley to the right. My seat was 6G in the bulkhead. This was my second flight aboard an A340, and I have concluded that I’m not a huge fan of the airplane. The cabin doesn’t seem as spacious as the 777, although the Swiss configuration in business class certainly had plenty of personal space. The overhead bins are large enough to stow a rollerboard wheels first which means there is plenty of room for everyone’s carryon, but they don't retract into the ceiling the way they do on the 777, allowing a more spacious feel to the cabin. To be honest, the Swiss cabin is rather boring. Seats are configured 2-2-2 so there is never a middle, which is nice. But the grey plaid fabric and grey/brown interior aren’t exactly exciting. I found the seat too hard for my liking, and there was a small bar that seemed to dig into my legs on the front of the seat. The fully upright position is a little too upright, rather like the United First Suite. The personal space was well thought out, and there was plenty of stowage for books, magazines, pillows, glasses, water bottles, etc. The flight was completely full.

I must say that the Swiss flight attendants were really put together. Not that they had been working all that long since they were only doing a Bangkok-Singapore-Bangkok turn that day, but the look is smart and well groomed in their blue uniforms with colorful scarves. Very similar look to Lufthansa, but the service was a little warmer. Champagne, juice or water was offered, along with a moist towelette for refreshment. Standard headsets (not noise reduction,) menus, magazines and newspapers came next. Boarding was completed and the doors closed early, and a relatively short taxi to the active runway meant we were up, up and away to the Land of Smiles in no time.

Service started as soon as the seatbelt sign was extinguished, and was what I refer to as intra-European style business class service. In other words, fast and efficient. Beverage service was provided from carts and went from back to front, with two flight attendants in each aisle. Mixed nuts were provided. Liquor was poured from full sized bottles, and not from miniatures. Next came two carts. One with meals, one with drinks. Again, service was back to front. Meal first, followed by drink and bread. All very efficient. And unlike United, you got bread and wine with your food! :rolleyes: The menu was as follows, and was printed in French, English, German and Chinese:

Singapore-Bangkok
Light meal

Mixed vegetable salad with prawns

Breast of chicken in creamy mustard sauce served with sautéed French beans, Vichy carrots and polenta
SWISS Asian-style selection

or

Deep-fried tilapia accompanied by pak choy in oyster sauce, spring onions and vermicelli noodles

A selection of fresh fruits

A total of six wines were offered. Champagne Jacquart Brut Mosaique, Riesling X Silvaner 2005, Viognier Finca La Linda 2005, Blauburgunder Spatlese 2005, Malbec Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2004, and a Swiss wine that I did not catch the name of. Very impressive on a two hour flight!

Refills of wine were offered during the meal. Trays were cleared by hand, and the drinks cart made another appearance with coffee, tea and after dinner drinks, as well as small Swiss chocolates. As we began descent into Bangkok, another cart rolled through offering Duty Free goods. We ended up having to circle over Pattaya for about 10 minutes due to the volume of traffic landing at Bangkok, but still arrived five minutes ahead of schedule. A very impressive performance onboard by a group of hard working flight attendants, although I can’t say the food was all that good. They only had the chicken available by the time they reached me, and it was dry and tasteless with overcooked vegetables. The small salad was good though, As was the Swiss chocolate.

The new Bangkok airport is well designed, and a vast improvement over the old Don Muang. It’s still too hot inside though in my opinion. The immigration counters were mere feet from the arrival gate, and I was processed and outside customs in less than five minutes. The Novotel where I was supposed to meet mjmsf is supposedly attached to the airport, but there was not a sign to be seen to direct passengers to it. I finally found a policeman and he told me to go to doorway number 4. Outside, there was a man standing curbside holding a Novotel sign, and he advised me that the shuttle bus was on the way. I could see the hotel from where I was standing, but in order to walk to it, you would need to cross two or three major roadways, and walk through an enormous parking garage. The shuttle bus ends up going out of the airport, circling around on the expressway, then back into the airport, making all sorts of twists and turns to finally get you to the hotel. Who the heck planned this? Not only is it not signposted, but you can’t even walk to it. How stupid.

Poor mjmsf had even more trouble finding the place. His United flight was three hours late, and he ended up taking a cab to the hotel. :td: All I can say about the hotel is, WOW! This is a Novotel? Being brand spanking new obviously helped, but the hotel was more like a Westin inside. The central part of the hotel was housed in a large atrium with plants, trees and even a small stream. In the center was the bell desk, a large lounge area with chairs and tables, and the reception area. Surrounding this were various restaurants and cafes. The rooms had comfortable beds, great bathrooms, and air conditioning that really worked. A huge improvement from that horrible Amari Hotel at Don Muang. And the room rate was around US$115, to boot. We sat and had a few beers and caught up, then headed off to bed at around 330AM since we had to be up for our 1045AM flight to Phuket in only a few hours.

More to come …

Loving it ^

Loving it ^

Ditto! Can't wait for more!^

I can’t believe this is how you treat your Star Alliance Gold customers.”

“You’re Star Gold, Mr. sftrvlr?”

“Yes. Here’s my card. It’s also printed on the confirmation email from Swiss that you have in front of you.”

“Oh. That’s not noted in the record.”

“Are you kidding me? Are you SURE you’re looking at MY reservation? Is this one of those jokes like they do on Candid Camera?” :confused:

“No sir. I mean, yes sir.”

"WHAT?"

"I mean, no sir, it's not a joke, and yes sir, I am looking at YOUR reservation."
This is the *exact* same thing happening with LH in India....

They claim *not* to recognize *any* Star Alliance Gold members (I have tried UA*G & TG*G), and therefore do not accord them *A priority on their flights - probably similar to LX as well...

Spoke to the UA BOM GSA, and they stated that this is their method of moving all *A pax to participate in Miles & Less....which I might have to do as well... :td: :td:

They also stated at BOM airport that only if the card was scanned in on their reader would they accord any *A pax any benefits!! :eek: :eek:

(that's what they did when I flew them last)

Excellent report so far sftrvlr.

Given the dedication and hardwork of many UA employees, it's disheartening when one has to experience a FA like you had from HNL to NRT. Unbelievable!

But then I saw NRT-SIN, and like you I don't think I could rave enough about UA FAs on this route. They are simply amazing and I am glad you had a good experience on this flight as well.

Looking forward to your next installments.Unfortunately the SIN-based FA's are not allowed to fly US routes... :td:

Unfortunately the SIN-based FA's are not allowed to fly US routes... :td:

Maybe because UA doesn't want its US-based crew to corrupt the SIN-based crew and hence bring down its intercontinental service standards, when domestic UA is already bad enough... You never know. :D :D

"the white Burgundy, and an almost frozen bottle of the Chardonnay. I was informed that I could wait for the Burgundy to thaw, or take the Chardonnay. Not being a fan of Chardonnay... "

Mr Picky Peasant would like to point out that white Burgundy is Chardonnay. Other growing areas can't use the name (Burgundy) but can and do use the same grape and style.

So, you were screwed every which way if you don't like chardonnay :D

Mr Picky Peasant would like to point out that white Burgundy is Chardonnay. Other growing areas can't use the name (Burgundy) but can and do use the same grape and style.

So, you were screwed every which way if you don't like chardonnay :D

Point taken. Schoolboy error in my wording, really.

What I should have said was that I prefer my white with less (or no) Oak.

:D

The wakeup call came far too early for my liking, but I dragged myself out of my cocoon, showered and dressed quickly, and was outside the front entrance waiting for the shuttle back to the airport. The return journey to the terminal was far less complicated than the outbound, and we were deposited outside Departures in about two minutes. Thai has a dedicated check-in island for Royal First and Royal Silk class, along with a waiting lounge for Royal First customers while they are checked in. The agent had no trouble checking both of us in, one with an e-ticket, one with paper, and juggled some seats around so that we could be together. Since it was a domestic departure, no immigration formalities were required, and we made the lengthy walk through the lower levels of the terminal to the domestic gates. I must say it rather reminded me of wandering around somebody’s unfinished basement. I think that’s the look they were going for, but can’t be sure. Maybe it really is unfinished.

The domestic Royal Orchid Lounge is also vastly improved from Don Muang. I would say it’s about four times the size, with comfy chairs, computer stations (only one of which worked) and a better selection of food and drink. No alcohol is served in the domestic lounge, but there was a wide variety of soft drinks and juices, as well as coffee and tea. Finger sandwiches, warm appetizers of curry puffs and spring rolls, pastries and snack mix were offered from the self service bar. After a quick cappuccino and a pastry, it was off to gate B6 for the short hop to Phuket.

TG209 / Bangkok-Phuket
Airbus 330-300 / Seat 24J / Royal Silk Class
Scheduled 1045-1205 / Actual 1101-1226

I have yet to take a journey on Thai where at least one of the aircraft listed on my itinerary was not the aircraft used. Out of a total of six flights this year, four of them have had an equipment change, the worst being a Hong Kong-Bangkok service in May that went from a brand new A330-300 to the oldest, nastiest A300-600 in the fleet. This morning was an exception to the rule though, and the anticipated aircraft was pulling up to the gate as we arrived. The gate areas offer plenty of seating with lots of natural light and fine views over the ramp area. Boarding was delayed by about 25 minutes due to servicing of the aircraft, but was completed quickly, and we pushed back just a little behind schedule. It appeared that they were using the same runway for arrivals and departures that morning, so even though our gate was almost at the threshold, we had to wait for four departures and two arrivals before taking off and heading south.

Here are a couple of photos of the departure lounge:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/pictures?a=67b0de21b326c16925e2&sid=2EcN2TJq0Yuqg

In-flight service was efficient and carried out with smiles all around. As I find is always the case with Thai, domestic and long haul crews are excellent, but intra-Asia crews seem grumpy. This was designated as a snack service due to the hour of departure, and the offering was a sandwich and fruit plate, along with soft drinks, coffee and tea. No alcohol is offered on Thai domestic services. We arrived about 20 minutes late into Phuket where some confusion ensued about where mjmsf’s bag would come out. Thailand has a system whereby travelers with a final destination of Phuket (and I believe Chiang Mai) who connect in Bangkok do not clear immigration and customs until their final destination. So when you arrive into Phuket, international through passengers go one way to immigration, international baggage claim and customs, and domestic passengers just go to domestic baggage claim. Now mjmsf had cleared both immigration and customs at Bangkok the night before, but his baggage had been checked through to Phuket. We asked the Thai ground staff where the bag would appear, and they said domestic baggage claim. I was not so sure, so after waiting for nearly all the bags to come out in the domestic area, I left mjmsf and wandered into the international area where lo and behold his bag was spinning round and round on the belt. I picked it up and walked right out through customs without being challenged by anybody :rolleyes:. A quick taxi negotiation and we were on the road for the lovely drive about 100 kilometers north to Khao Lak.

We stayed at Le Meridien Khao Lak for the bargain travel agent rate of US$59/night, very much enjoying total relaxation by the pool or at the beach, spa treatments and some fine dining. When I visited in May, the resort was almost empty, but this time, with high season approaching and a large company meeting in house, things were much more lively. It was a little annoying that the large group took over a different part of the resort each night for entertainment and dinner, so “regular” guests were deprived of one or more of the restaurants and bars. That said, we chose room service several times not only because the quality of the food was excellent, but it was nice to simply relax on the balcony watching the swaying palms or a fantastic thunderstorm and not have to dress for dinner. The week at the lovely Le Meridien Khao Lak passed far too quickly, and it was soon time for the return taxi journey to Phuket. We would fly to Bangkok and Singapore together, and then go our separate ways, mjmsf to visit relatives in Singapore, and sftrvlr onward to Colombo.

TG630 / Phuket-Bangkok
Boeing 777-200 / Seat 22B / Royal Executive Class
Scheduled 1255-1420 / Actual 1255-1415

As usual, check-in at Phuket was a breeze with the dedicated business class counters. They were able to check mjmsf’s bag through to Singapore, but unable to check either of us in for the Swiss flight from Bangkok to Singapore, telling us to approach the international connections counter upon arrival. We were given stickers with the letters C.I.Q. on them to identify us as passengers connecting out of Thailand, and were informed that the Royal Orchid Lounge was closed for refurbishment, but that we could use the Thai Restaurant on the upper level, landside. We were reminded to leave enough time for immigration formalities.

There were two sections of the restaurant set aside for the use of Royal Executive Class customers. One for international that served beer, and one for domestic that did not. The snacks in each section were identical. We were two of only four people in the international section, and after a cold Singha and some curry puffs, it was time to clear immigration and head to the gate. True to form, our A330-300 had been replaced by a 777-200! Better than an A300-600, I suppose. This 777-200 did not have the high density (2-4-2) configuration that I was subjected to in May between Bangkok and Hong Kong, but had been reconfigured to the standard 2-3-2 arrangement, with vastly improved legroom. Pushback was right on schedule, followed by an immediate takeoff with half the cabin crew still standing. The departure hour made this a lunch service flight, and a full hot lunch was served, along with non alcoholic beverages. The main course was chicken with cashews, accompanied by a small salad and fruit for desert. I didn't eat, but mjmsf said it was tasty. Once again the Asian carriers manage a complete meal service on a one hour flight that you would be lucky to get a drink on in the USA.

An early arrival into Bangkok was followed by a passport and onward boarding pass check for C. I. Q. passengers. Does anyone know what C. I. Q. actually stands for? Since Thai could not check us in for the Swiss flight to Singapore, we had to produce a paper ticket and e-ticket receipt respectively to show the immigration officer at Bangkok. Once processed, we took the escalator up to the next level (domestic flights use the lower level) and proceeded to wander around trying to find the international transfer counters. Once again there was not a signpost to be found :mad:. We finally went into a Royal Orchid Lounge on the third level and asked, and were told it was back down on the second level. Argh! :td: Check-in for the onward flight on Swiss was swift and the agent managed to seat us together in the center section. He also offered us a lounge invitation to any of the Royal Orchid Lounge locations throughout the airport. We selected the one nearest to our departure gate, but it was horribly overcrowded with passengers sitting in the hallways, etc. We finally found two seats together and settled in for an adult beverage or two while we waited. I would estimate that this lounge could accommodate 200 people, and it was overflowing since all Star Alliance Gold customers use the Royal Orchid Lounge. That said, it was nicely designed with a Thai theme, and the food and drink were delicious and varied. Mid shelf liquor as well as the usual variety of beer, wine, soft drinks, juices, water, coffee and tea. An extensive selection of finger sandwiches, hot snacks such as curry puffs, spring rolls and mini pizzas, as well as fruit and pastries were on offer.

LX182 / Bangkok-Singapore
Airbus A340-300 / Seat 8G / Business Class
Scheduled 1605-1930 / Actual 1621-1941

The boarding gate was located just outside the Royal Orchid Lounge and down one level, but the inbound aircraft was arriving at the gate at the same time we were, which didn’t bode well for an on time departure. Announcements were made keeping the passengers informed. Boarding began at 1600 and was completed quickly as everyone complied with the request to take their seats as soon as possible. I don’t understand why it takes 20 minutes to board in Asia, whereas the same amount of people take twice the time in the US. Too many carryons probably. Once onboard, a warm welcome was offered by the crew, along with moist towelettes. Headphones and menus were laid out on each seat. Champagne, juice or water, along with newspapers were next. We bypassed several other aircraft and went directly to the active runway for an immediate takeoff.

Once again, the crew hustled to provide excellent service on the two hour flight down to Singapore. Cocktails and mixed nuts, followed by meal service with wine and bread, another round of wine and bread, then coffee, tea and after dinner drinks accompanied by Swiss chocolates. And finally the duty free service. The menu was as follows:

Bangkok-Singapore
Light meal

Thai mesclun salad with Thousand Island dressing, cucumber, cherry tomato and baby corn

Stir-fried beef in oyster sauce served with Taiwanese vegetables, spring onions and rice
SWISS Asian-style selection

or

Red snapper fillet in Meuniere sauce, accompanied by sautéed snow peas, cherry tomato and diced potatoes

A selection of fresh fruits

I didn’t see the wine list, but imagine it was the same as the flight from Singapore up to Bangkok a week earlier. After the last meal on Swiss, and knowing that I would have use of the Silverkris Lounge at Changi in a couple of hours, I stuck with gin and tonics and mixed nuts, despite the protestations of the crew about how “good” the meal was. The cabin crew on this leg was particularly friendly and showed that Swiss in-flight service deserves its well earned reputation. (With the slight exception of a brusque “NO” when I asked about landing forms for Singapore as we began descent.) The flight attendant came back moments later to apologize and tell me they had forgotten to hand them out, thanking me for reminding the crew. I wasn’t even asking for myself, but for mjmsf who was napping next to me.

Our arrival into Singapore was just a few minutes behind schedule, where mjmsf and I said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. I once again made the long, slow trek from the Terminal One C gates to Terminal Two and the Silverkris Lounge to check in for my onward Singapore Airlines flight to Colombo. I felt like a complete idiot as I insisted to the agent that I had an e-ticket, when in reality I had a paper ticket :rolleyes:. I just get so used to electronic these days that it sometimes slips my mind that I may in fact have a paper ticket. The agent asked me if 11F, the bulkhead center section aisle on the right, was the seat I wanted (not that I’m picky or anything ;),) then she popped out a boarding pass and directed me to the Raffles section of the Silverkris Lounge. She just had to rub it in, didn’t she? I was now slumming it in business class to Colombo. :D

The business class lounge is larger than the first class lounge, and almost as well appointed. There are two food sections that appear to have about the same offerings as the first class lounge, and the booze seemed to be the same too, except for no Dom Perignon. There is also a full service bar where premium liquor is served. Samosas and pot stickers were offered, as well as stir fried noodles with vegetables and duck with orange sauce. The soup was vegetarian hot and sour. There were also finger sandwiches, bar snacks and various cakes and pastries, as well as fresh fruit. Another impressive spread from Singapore Airlines. I had a cup of the soup and some pot stickers, then played on one of the computers for a while before leaving the lounge (it was becoming uncomfortably full by this time with the late night bank to Europe and elsewhere) to wander slowly to the gate where boarding was already underway as I cleared security.

SQ468 / Singapore-Colombo
Boeing 777-200 / Seat 11F / Raffles Class
Scheduled 2245-2355 / Actual 2245-0015

I was greeted at doorway 1L and directed through the galley and first class cabin (where I tried hard not to look enviously at the monks in 2A&B,) and settled into 11F, insisting that the 110 pound, five foot one inch Singapore Girl NOT try to lift my rollerboard into the overhead. I felt that I was more than able to accomplish this task, being a foot taller and twice the weight. A hot towel was proffered, followed by a glass of bubbly. Noise canceling headset, socks, eyeshades and earplugs came next. Then a selection of newspapers and magazines, and that evening’s supper menu. We pushed back right on time, but took almost 30 minutes to taxi and finally become airborne. The captain anticipated an on time arrival into Colombo, though. The in-flight map was all messed up that evening, telling us that the local time at our destination was 0000, and that we had 1200 hours of flight left. I was hoping that the pilots had a slightly better map up there in the pointy end. :eek:

Service began as soon as the seatbelt light went off. Cocktails and nuts were served as dinner orders were taken. Refills were offered prior to laying the table. Raffles Class service is provided on a tray with the starter course. Wine and bread are offered. This is then cleared and each passenger is served an individually plated main course. Desert is offered after the tray has been cleared, along with coffee, tea and after dinner drinks. Service was top notch throughout, with a particularly friendly crew that evening. I was addressed by name each and every time, and the menu was as follows:

singapore >> colombo

supper menu

A Savoury Note

Smoked turkey garnished with tomato and cucumber salad

The Main Event

Pan fried fillet of cod with a Nouilly Prat sauce, buttered spinach and steamed potatoes
Exclusively created by Gordon Ramsay, London

Murgh tandoori
Indian barbecued chicken, mixed vegetable curry and almond pilaf

Stewed lamb in cardamom flavoured tomato sauce, asparagus and fettuccine

A Sweet Note

Pumpkin crème brulee served with tuile

A Connoisseur’s Choice

Gourmet coffee
Selection of tea

The white wines included Piper-Heidsieck Champagne 1999, 2004 Hattenheimer Schultzenhaus Riesling Kabinett Blthasar ress, and Montagny 1er Cru 2004 Burgundy. The reds on offer were Chateau Cissac 1998 Cru Bourgeois Haut Medoc, and Serrata Belguardo 2003 Maremma Toscana.

The turkey appetizer was not at all appetizing, and I only ate the salad with some garlic bread. The lamb was tasty if a bit on the mushy side (as if the meat hadn’t been browned off before stewing it) and went well with a glass or three of the Haut Medoc. I amused myself with Krisworld for an hour or so, and we were descending into Colombo through moderate turbulence, touching down in a driving rain storm, and then taxiing slowly to the gate for a late arrival. With all the extra immigration counters in the new terminal, it took only about 15 minutes to reach the Holiday Inn booth amid the chaos outside International Arrivals. The immigration officer remarked that I had gained a few pounds since my passport photo was taken, and I told him it was all the wonderful food in Sri Lanka that did it. :D

The Holiday Inn counter called a cab for me. It took about 15 minutes for the driver to negotiate his way to the pickup area, where the Holiday Inn representative wished me a pleasant stay and said he had notified the front desk of my imminent arrival. Security was the tightest I’ve ever seen it in Colombo. We were pulled over by machine gun toting police at checkpoints reinforced with sandbags and tanks six times on the way into the city. Each time they looked at my passport and checked the trunk of the car for explosives, and each time they offered a big smile as the word “America” was exchanged with the cabbie. At the last two checkpoints, the guard had a brief conversation with me, apologizing for the delay, but explaining the necessity with the current situation; thanking me for visiting Sri Lanka and bidding me a pleasant stay.

The cab driver told me that business had all but dried up since the troubles had once again reared their ugly head, and that I was his first fare of the day after working for six hours. He practically begged to come and take me back to the airport when I was ready to leave, and I obliged after we agreed on the fare. Arriving at the hotel I was greeted by name with a handshake, and a warm “welcome back” to Colombo. The front desk clerk chatted amiably as he filled out the quadruplicate paperwork that seems to be required for even the smallest transaction in Sri Lanka. A few moments later, the bellman accompanied me up to my top floor room with a nice view over Galle Face Green to the pounding waves of the Indian Ocean. It had been newly refurbished and was the size of a junior suite with a sofa, armchair and coffee table in the sitting area, a full sized desk and a king sized bed. A tad noisy without double paned windows, but the view made up for it. I ordered a bucket of ice, poured myself a whisky, and once again contemplated that I had made it to the opposite side of the planet in such refined style. I must have been more tired than I thought because I slept nearly 10 hours, waking to a complimentary pot of coffee delivered by the butler.

I visited my favorite Indian restaurant, Alhambra, for lunch, where I ate like a Maharaja for US$20, then lounged by the pool until the heavens opened with afternoon thunderstorms and I retreated to my room to watch an incredible display of rain and lightning for the next few hours. Still full from lunch, I lounged around the room for the rest of the evening, watching a movie, and catching up on the news from Al Jazeera’s new global network. The look is very much CNN with presenters anchoring programs from flashy studio sets in Doha, London, Washington and Kuala Lumpur. They’ve also poached many reporters and presenters from the other global networks such as CNN and BBC, including an old schoolfriend of mine. They probably didn’t want anyone from FOX News :D. I wish we got Al Jazeera here in San Diego, but the cable company is about as likely to add Al Jazeera as it is to drop FOX News. The next day, another Indian lunch was followed by a wander along the waterfront, a shave at a barber shop and a quick swim in the pool. Then it was time to shower, dress and head back to the airport for my Cathay Pacific flight to Singapore and on to Hong Kong. Another very enjoyable stay in Colombo had come to an end …

Up next: Cathay Pacific’s nasty intra-Asia seat and my first First on JAL.

"... and settled into 11F, insisting that the 110 pound, five foot one inch Singapore Girl NOT try to lift my rollerboard into the overhead. " I love your humour. Keep up the good stuff on this TR! :D

Excllent report so far!! Thanks sftrvlr ^^

Yikes, I've only just discovered this - and an excellent read it is too ^

With this report coming hard on the heels of jacob_m's classic, I really must dedicate some quality thinking time to how on earth I can sample some *A pampering, reinvigorate my rapidly dwindling *A status :eek: , retain my BA status and still hold down a job to pay for it all :confused: :confused: :confused:

A very enjoyable and entartaining report!
Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, and fellow FlyerTalkers :D. Once again we’re off across the vast Pacific in high style, testing the limits of luxury aboard United Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Swiss, Thai, Cathay Pacific and Japan Airlines. Well okay, United lags a little behind in terms of luxury, but as you’ll see, they can really pull it together when they want to...

...I was next to last to be served, and despite the fact that there were several portions of each appetizer on the trolley, my request for both the salmon and the goat cheese strudel was denied. They were only “allowed” to serve one or the other :rolleyes:.

That is something I find quite amazing! Over the past year or so I have become quite a regular on EL AL's First Class, mainly on the LHR-TLV route, but also on TLV-NYC and TLV-HKG. Now I do have some issues with EL AL, but food is not one of them. I have found that as long as there is enough food, they will let you have as much as you want. On some routes the food is so good that I skip meals for most of the day and then 'do the menu' - taking all the starters, all the main courses etc ... (and no, I am not overweight either!). I have never been told that they are only allowed to serve one or the other!

Being rather uncharitable, I would say that as you were one of the last to be served, the crew rather fancied some of the food, and made up the story about 'not being allowed' in order to keep you quiet. I mean, you were on an international First Class flight ...

very entertaining report! nice job!
sounds like you have a pretty good time in the first-class cabins of all the premium carriers. can´t wait for the CX part!

thomas

Can't wait for the next part!!
very good so far!

Still loving it :D

I hope you're all enjoying the ride ...

The drive back to Katunayake International was exactly the same as the drive into town had been. Endless checkpoints, flashlights and questions, but once again with smiles all around. Only ticketed passengers are permitted inside the terminal at Colombo, and the two lines for entry were each around 50 people long. I learned years ago in India that lines really mean nothing but a place to stand and chat in this part of the world, so rather than standing around sweating with all the tourists queuing politely for their turn, I simply walked purposefully to the front of the line and into the terminal, flashing my passport at the guard. :eek: Hey, when in Rome, right? ;) Once inside there were only about ten people in front of me for the security checkpoint, and I did wait my turn. Just as I reached the x-ray machine, I was brushed aside by an extremely large sari-clad woman muttering in Sinhala (I'm making a language assumption here, but it could have been something else) and waiving her documents about with bangle adorned arms. I then watched and waited as her three porters (yes, three of them) deposited her eleven(!) pieces of luggage onto the conveyor belt as she talked loudly on her cell phone while being wanded by the security guard. "Wow, she's good!" I thought to myself as I pretty much sat right on the belt to wrestle my rollerboard into the machine ahead of a now highly impatient businessman. I was of course hoping to be caught up in her wake and pulled along into the terminal as she cleared a path for me, but that was not to be as a family with several small and rather uncontrolled children took forever to file through the magnetometer.

Okay. Two hurdles jumped. They certainly don't make it easy to leave Sri Lanka, do they? Next, me and about 200 other people surged like a sweaty, smelly river, down a stuffy, hot temporary passageway to the check-in area (International Departures is currently under construction.) I’ve flown Sri Lankan, Emirates, Thai and Singapore Airlines out of Colombo before, but never Cathay Pacific, and it took a few minutes to find the two check-in counters that were open. To my dismay, there was no premium line and a large group of badminton players milling about, but it proved not to be an issue. The line I chose moved quickly and I was soon offered my boarding pass and a lounge invitation, directed through the speedy passport control counters, and upstairs to the newly refurbished terminal.

I planned to briefly say hello to another fellow FlyerTalker (I don't know his FT handle) who was arriving on the Singapore Airlines flight that same evening, and the arrivals monitors showed that I had about half an hour to wait, so I decided to stop in for a drinkie and snack at the Araliya Business Class Lounge. This is one of three new lounges in the new terminal. Sri Lankan has a dedicated (and very nice) lounge, and there are pool lounges for premium customers traveling on other carriers. The Araliya Lounge is for business class, and the Lotus Lounge for first class. Since Cathay only operates a two cabin configuration into Colombo, I had no choice. What a disappointment after my most enjoyable visit to the Sri Lankan Airlines Lounge the last time I was in Colombo!

A report on the Sri Lankan Airlines lounge can be found here:
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=498447&page=4

The Araliya Lounge was crowded with the many late night departures, and on the warm side. There was no enclosed smoking section, but rather a cordoned off area at one end of the lounge, so the entire place had a hard-to-describe aroma of stale cigarettes, bad cologne and curry powder. In fearless defiance, and not wanting to let my readers down (:D), I pushed on through the haze and found the bar, the gin, some ice and tonic, and settled in to relax for a bit.

Actually, it wasn’t that bad. The old lounges at Colombo were far worse. In fact some carriers merely used to give you restaurant vouchers in lieu of an actual lounge visit. Smoke doesn’t particularly bother me, but those who are sensitive to it would not be happy here. The bar contained mid shelf liquors as well as red and white wines, beers and the usual soft drinks, juices and waters, along with coffee and tea. Food wise, it was quite impressive. At least as far as variety, although the actual taste and quality left a bit to be desired. I sampled the satays (not bad), the mini pizzas (disgusting), the samosas (just edible) and the pan fried noodles with spicy sauce (overcooked.) There was also pasta with tomato sauce, finger sandwiches, cheese and crackers, fruit, and a variety of cookies and pastries. A large and varied selection, but perhaps they need to focus more on quality over quantity. A gin and tonic later, I wandered to the gate to meet the SQ468 from Singapore. My flight had also been called for boarding, but knowing that in Colombo they a) always call the flights too early, and b) make business class wait until after economy class to board, I wasn’t rushed.

As I approached the gate, I saw the Singapore Airlines 777 already parked, although there appeared to be no passengers disembarking, so waited expectantly for a few moments, but nothing happened. I asked the security guard what time the flight had arrived, and he told me 20 minutes ago! :rolleyes:

As I was wandering down to the Araliya Lounge, I had noticed throngs of customers at the Transfer Desk, and briefly wondered if something had been delayed or canceled that evening, not even thinking (at the time) that our fellow FlyerTalker had to use that very desk to retrieve his return boarding pass to Singapore that night. Remembering the mess at the Transfer Desk, I turned and walked back to the main terminal, knowing that someone was not going to be a happy camper ;). Sure enough, there were still at least 50 people awaiting service, but unnamed FTer had managed to push his way to the front and was tapping his fingers on the counter as the agent tapped his fingers on the keyboard behind the counter. We said a brief hello, and he explained that United had double booked him on the Singapore Airlines flight, so they had canceled everything! :mad: Just as I exclaimed yikes, the agent handed him a first class boarding pass, and we both sighed with relief. He told me that the reason for the massive queues that evening was because the Sri Lankan flight to London had been delayed for hours, then made an aborted takeoff, so all the passengers were being rebooked or put up overnight. What a mess! It was now twenty minutes before departure for my flight, so we said a quick goodbye, and I sped to the gate for boarding, just as they were announcing my name over the PA system.

CX 710 / CMB-HKG (via SIN)
Boeing 777-300 / Seat 16G (sometimes) / Business Class
Scheduled 1240-1150 / Actual 1240-1144

As I boarded (last) through doorway 1L, I was warmly greeted by the Purser, and directed through the galley towards my mid-cabin seat in the enormous forward business class section on Cathay’s stretch 777. Approaching 16G it became apparent that an elderly gentleman had already settled himself comfortably into my assigned seat. Just as I was about to ask him if he was in the correct seat, a flight attendant quietly requested that I take any available seat in the cabin for this sector from Colombo to Singapore. I actually preferred the window on an overnight flight anyway, and gladly settled into 16K for the short ride. There were a total of 11 passengers in the entire front cabin, and nobody in the second business class mini-cabin for this portion. The flight attendant explained that he had been seated in the last row of the second cabin by himself and they had moved him forward after they thought everyone had boarded the aircraft. I really didn’t mind at all, even though she was making a big deal out of it. She said that the continuation from Singapore to Hong Kong would be completely full, and asked that I move to my originally assigned seat after the cabin had been prepared in Singapore. As I kept telling her, it was not a problem.

Juice or water was offered pre-departure, along with newspaper and magazines, hot towels, headsets, menus and amenity kits. The Purser came around and introduced herself personally to each business class customer, thanking us for selecting Cathay for our travel this evening, and assuring us a comfortable flight. The captain added his welcome, and let us know it would be mainly smooth until descent into the island nation, where some lingering thunderstorms were expected. Pushback was exactly on time, and since Colombo isn’t exactly the busiest airport, we began our takeoff roll ten minutes later. I can’t be sure, but I’m almost positive I saw guards with machine guns in the bunkers that line the runway at CMB, which wouldn’t surprise me under the circumstances. The last time I made a daylight takeoff from Colombo I noticed the bunkers, but they appeared un-manned. Cathay Pacific has cameras outside the aircraft and you watch the takeoff roll on the main cabin screen, which is pretty interesting. Other carriers I’ve seen this on are Emirates and JAL. Climb-out was smooth and the seatbelt sign extinguished shortly as the twinkling lights slipped away beneath us. It all appeared so peaceful as I quietly, sadly contemplated the horrors inflicted on this lovely country in recent times, both at the hands of Mother Nature, as well as her own people. :(

Service began as soon as the seatbelt sign went off. Drinks and roasted almonds were served from a cart, with refills offered as the table linens were laid. Preset trays containing the appetizer course were then presented. Bread and wine followed immediately. Once the first course had been cleared, carts were rolled down the aisle with the main courses on display so that each customer could make a selection. The service was speedy due to the late hour and short duration of the flight, but did not seem rushed. Our menu was as follows:

REFRESHMENT

APPETIZER

Gravlax Salmon with Waldorf Salad

MAIN COURSES

Prawn Maharaj
Risi Risi Rice and Bindi Mapis

Stir-fried Pork with Chili Bean Sauce
Steamed Rice and Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables

Cauliflower Cream Soup with Scallops

DESSERT

Baked Blueberry Cheesecake with Mango Coulis

TEA AND COFFEE

PRALINES

The white wines were Billecart-Salmon Brut Champagne, Arthur Barolet et Fils Saint Veran 2004 (Burgundy) and Climbing Chardonnay 2005 (New South Wales.) Available reds were Laboure Roi Aloxe Corton Les Hautes Tours 2000 and Vieux Chateau Landon Cru Bourgeois Medoc 2002.

The salmon and Waldorf salad were delicious, and I followed with the cauliflower soup, which needed salt and pepper, but was light and tasty with perfectly cooked scallops. A few glasses of the Billecart-Salmon went down nicely, too. I had not planned on dessert, but the flight attendant insisted, and I complied, taking a couple of pralines to finish my last glass of champagne. For some reason I wasn’t tired, so played with Studio CX for a while, then fell asleep just as we began out descent into Singapore. :rolleyes: It turned out to be a smooth descent and landing, putting us at the gate almost 15 minutes early. Through passengers were asked to remain onboard during the layover for security reasons, but to please stay in our originally assigned seats until the security check had been carried out. I had always assumed that Cathay Pacific overnighted their crews in Colombo since the aircraft originates and terminates in Hong Kong, but that is not the case. There was a crew change at Singapore, so the flight attendants who had served us from Colombo to Singapore bid us farewell and a pleasant onward journey. The fresh crew boarded and prepared the cabin for departure. The cleaners did an amazing job in a very short time, too. As usual with flights that depart from most Asian airports, the cabin was spotless before our new companions joined us for the final sector to Hong Kong. The flight attendant from the Colombo-Singapore leg did not lie when she said that this portion of the service was completely full. Every single seat.

It’s a bit of a drag to have to stay on the airplane during a layover approaching 90 minutes, but boarding was quickly completed and the doors were closed, with another on-time pushback. The new cockpit and cabin crew welcomed all of us aboard again. During boarding, juice or water were once again offered, along with newspapers and magazines, menus, headsets and hot towels. No amenity kits were given out on this sector and there was no wine list for the breakfast service. Due to a fair amount of departing traffic at that time of the day, and taxi and takeoff took about 25 minutes, but we were soon airborne and turning northeast towards the South China Sea.

The seatbelt sign was on for quite some time, but service carts rolled down the aisles as soon as it was turned off. With a completely full cabin, the flight attendants work hard! It’s not a particularly rushed service. It’s just that there are so many passengers to serve. There was no beverage service before breakfast, and tables were laid immediately, followed in short order by the preset tray with appetizer course. Juices were offered at the same time, then bakery items and coffee and tea. Refills followed all around. There was quite a gap between courses since it takes a long time to clear that many first courses away, but the carts were on the roll again soon enough with the main course selections, followed by an additional bread/pastry/beverage offering. All in all a well planned, well executed service for a completely full cabin. And a lot of food, to boot. The menu:

BREAKFAST

JUICE SELECTION

APPETIZER

Fresh Seasonal Fruit

FRUIT YOGHURT, CORN FLAKES OR MUESLI

MAIN COURSES

Scrambled Egg in Pancake
Grilled Chicken Sausage, Hash Brown Potatoes and Mushrooms

Hokkien Mee with Prawns, Fish Cake and Choy Sum

Congee with Minced Chicken and Salted Egg

BREAD BASKED

Assorted Bread and Breakfast Pastries
Served with Preserves, Honey and Butter

TEA AND COFFEE

Unfortunately this meal was one to bring down the score for Cathay Pacific. The fruit appetizer consisted of some unripe melon pieces, a strawberry, and some ripe but nearly frozen pineapple segments. The yogurt was warm. I have to say that the scrambled eggs looked pretty horrific, but I wouldn’t have chosen them anyway since I tend to stick to Asian food on Asian airlines when possible. Whilst I like Congee, I had eaten only soup for my main course from Colombo to Singapore, and wanted something a little more substantial. Which left the noodles. Big mistake. Hokkien Mee is one of my favorite things, and although I can’t expect them to taste fantastic at 30,000 feet, whatever they had managed to do to this main course was astounding. Not only was it completely tasteless, but the noodles were horribly overcooked, the seafood rubbery and the vegetables brown and mushy. One bite of each was all I could stomach. However, since I hadn’t slept out of Colombo, it was definitely time for a nap (after waiting 10 minutes for an available lavatory.)

Now I'm not one to get antsy on airplanes, but for some reason all I wanted was to get off this cramped, overstuffed bird. The sooner, the better. The captain complied with a six minute early arrival into Hong Kong.

The weather in Hong Kong was murky as we made the now boring approach to the new Hong Kong International airport for a smooth touchdown and early arrival. With more than three hours to connect to my Japan Airlines flight onward to Narita, I slowly walked to the connection counter where two agents had nobody in line. I was handed a boarding pass for an aisle seat, and requested that it be changed to a window, which was not a problem. The agent also handed me an invitation to the JAL Sakura Lounge and asked if I would like her to escort me through security and show me to the lounge. I declined, and was through security and upstairs in about 90 seconds. Chep Lap Kok is among the best of the new Asian mega-airports. Designed with the passenger in mind it offers soaring ceilings, lots of glass and excellent views of the field, along with a wide variety of shops and restaurants. The airline lounges are located on balconies above the concourse so you can look down at all the activity below you, as well as out to the ramp and field.

I made my way upstairs to the JAL Sakura Lounge where I was greeted with the customary bow by the front desk agents, and then escorted into the first class section of the lounge, which is really just a portion of seats and tables at the far end that are cordoned off. This turned out to be perfect respite though, since rest of the lounge filled almost to capacity as flight time approached, but the first class section remained blissfully quiet. The agent offered to show me around the lounge, but I declined. She brought me a hot towel, then some Japanese green tea and a small cake, asking that I please contact her should I require further assistance. Fine service indeed! The anticipation was building for my first ever flight on Japan Airlines …

Hey sftrvlr

That was me! And I was thrilled you stopped by to say hi!

Can't wait to read about your next segment . . . . By the way, the miles have not yet posted for that flight I took CMBSIN:td: . . . . . . .

Wonderful!^

Fabulous read .

Eagerly awaiting the rest :)

Hey sftrvlr

That was me! And I was thrilled you stopped by to say hi!

Can't wait to read about your next segment . . . . By the way, the miles have not yet posted for that flight I took CMBSIN:td: . . . . . . .
Wow! You waited a year for your first post. Great stamina! :p :D

Excellent report sftrvlr

Hey sftrvlr

That was me! And I was thrilled you stopped by to say hi!

Can't wait to read about your next segment . . . . By the way, the miles have not yet posted for that flight I took CMBSIN:td: . . . . . . .


All this time lurking ... wow!

Well anyway, welcome to FlyerTalk and good luck with the miles.

PS

Final installment of this trip coming shortly ...

All this time lurking ... wow!

Well anyway, welcome to FlyerTalk and good luck with the miles.

PS

Final installment of this trip coming shortly ...

Nothing wrong with lurking . . . . It's a great to learn!
looking forward to the next installment....

My time in the JAL Sakura Lounge flew by. I used one of the six computers to check email and FlyerTalk, discovering that a fellow FTer was directly across from me in the Thai Airways Royal Orchid Lounge. An interesting extra that JAL offers is a small steam oven that contains heated oshiburi towels to refresh yourself. There were two buffet setups that contained mid range liquor, sparkling and still wines, sake and a beer machine. Mixers, soft drinks, juices and still and sparkling waters were available, along with coffee and a wide selection of teas. Four large trays contained an extensive variety of sushi. There were also multiple varieties of instant noodles, cakes and cookies, Otsumami snacks, and two baskets of fresh fruit on offer. And all this was just in the business class section! A small table in the first class area held additional sushi, along with premium sake in an ice bucket. I was trying not to overeat, but it was a challenge :D.

JL 732 / HKG-NRT
Boeing 747-400 / Seat 2K / First Class
Scheduled 1520-2010 / Actual 1517-2000

The flight was departing from the gate just below the lounge, so I could hear the announcements being made from my seat. As I heard them announce boarding, I collected my belongings and prepared to leave the lounge. One of the hostesses stopped me as I was about to walk out the door and requested that I wait a few more moments so that I wouldn’t have to stand in line. She said that I would be escorted to the aircraft just prior to departure. Excellent! ^ Sure enough, at T minus 10 minutes, myself and three other first class customers were escorted to the plane where we were bid farewell with a bow as we were simultaneously welcomed by the cabin crew with a bow. It was just bows all around today. I’m glad I don’t live in Japan because I think my back would give out with all that prostrating. :D

There was one person already seated in the cabin, and the rest of us were spread out so that we all had an empty seat next to us, with the exception of two elderly ladies who were traveling together. Champagne was offered as we settled in, followed by magazines and newspapers, slippers, headsets and a first class amenity kit. Curiously (I thought) a wine list was handed out, but not a menu. JAL gives the wine list first so that you can select wine as your aperitif if you wish. Menus are distributed by the Purser during the first beverage service after takeoff. The first class cabin on JAL is the nosecone of the 747, but this aircraft was configured with old style, crushed velvet covered seats in a two by two arrangement. Although they were true flat sleeper seats with ample legroom (there are only three rows), they were not the modern day “pods” one expects in international first class. I understand that JAL is in the process of updating their first class cabins.

The weather had cleared somewhat as we lifted off for Japan, and service began almost immediately after takeoff with cocktails and canapés, followed by a full five course meal service. Unfortunately I am no longer in possession of the menu from this sector. My 14 month old niece was visiting a couple of weeks ago and she thought it would be fun to feed the menu to the dog. I can say that both the service and food were excellent on this sector. I had the Autumn Taste of Japan selection which consisted of about 15 small offerings, along with wonderful sake. We touched down ten minutes early into a rather chilly (4 degrees Celsius) Narita, and I was through immigration and customs, and outside shivering in fifteen minutes. Luckily the bus from the Hilton Narita arrived within five minutes, and moments later I was settling into a room on the 21st floor with a direct view of the main runway. Just as requested. A bucket of ice arrived promptly from room service, and I spent an hour or so sipping Japanese whisky and watching departure after departure fly right by my window, then retired early for a much needed 11 hour sleep.

The front desk kindly extended my checkout to 3PM the following day since my flight wasn’t until 6PM. Checkout was swift with a zero balance since I used Hilton Hhonors points to pay for the room, and I was at Terminal Two Departures by half past three. JAL has a dedicated first class check-in area, and each check-in counter has a seat in front of it for you to sit while they complete the formalities. I asked about having a free seat next to me, but the agent said that first class was full that evening. Not a problem with so much personal space anyway, but it never hurts to ask. The agent said that they were expecting a ten minute delay this evening due to the late arrival of the inbound aircraft, and apologized, inviting me to remain in the first class section of the Sakura Lounge until twenty minutes before departure.

JAL operates a total of three Sakura Lounges at Narita. One is just for business class, and the other two are for business and first class. I used the one in the main terminal, which was under construction, but amply comfortable, if on the small side. I was the first person in the lounge, but there were around 25 passengers at the busiest moments. The window shades were drawn so there was no view, which made it feel a bit claustrophobic. As with Hong Kong, I was shown into the lounge, offered a warm towel and asked if I would like a drink to be poured for me. I accepted the former, but declined the latter since I prefer to fix my own. The liquor selection was top shelf this time, with premium brands, champagne, premium wines and sake. There was a small but beautiful display of sushi, along with finger sandwiches, soba noodles and Otsumami. There was a mini library that contained a huge variety of newspapers, magazines and books to read, along with postcards, stationary, playing cards key chains and pens with the JAL logo. Once again as I tried to leave the lounge, the agent said I should wait a few more minutes so that I wouldn’t have to deal with a line at the gate. Having been sitting in that lounge for two hours, I was ready to stretch my legs, and told her I’d walk slowly.

JL 2 / NRT-SFO
Boeing 747-400 / Seat 3A / First Class
Scheduled 1800-0900 / Actual 1810-1013

There was extra security at the gate for this flight, and each carryon bag was hand searched. As I joined the queue for boarding, one of the gate agents noticed my red boarding pass and came (almost) running over to escort me to the front of the line. Moments later I was warmly greeted by the crew and offered champagne and a small plate of canapés as I settled in for the evening. As on the previous sector from Hong Kong, newspapers and magazines were offered, followed by wine lists, headsets, slippers and amenity kits. We pushed back ten minutes behind schedule with an apology from the captain, but he assured us that with tail winds in our favor, we would arrive in San Francisco on time or slightly early. Once again the outside cameras were on for our taxi and takeoff, and we were climbing bumpily towards the Americas shortly after 1830 local time.

The flight attendants remained seated for about thirty minutes after takeoff due to moderate turbulence we were experiencing. Service began with cocktails, Otsumami and assorted canapés, followed by a fabulous dinner:

CHEF’S RECOMMENDATION

Amuse Bouche

Terrine of Seafood

Onion Soup with Foie Gras Flan

MAIN DISH (CHOICE)

Fillet of “Iwate-Gyu” Beef Steak with Madeira Sauce (477 kcal)

Sautéed Chicken “Pot-au-Feu” Style (500 kcal)

Sautéed Tilefish with Mushroom Mousse (342 kcal)
JAL Healthy Menu Selection – Low calorie and well-balanced menu

Seasonal Fresh Salad

Assorted Cheeses

Fruits in Season
Chestnut Mousse
Raspberry & Pistachio Cake
Sesame Chou Cream

Coffee Tea Herbal Tea Espresso Cappuccino

Petit Fours

AUTUMN TASTE of JAPAN

Sakizuke

Egg Custard in Jelly

Zensai

Braised Prawn
Mixed Sweet Persimmon with Bean Curd Lees
Rolled Duck with Onion
Simmered Rolled Cod Roe with Kelp
Sesame Curd Tofu

Wan

Japanese Clear Soup with Salmon & Fish Mousse

Mukouzuke

Seared Pike Conger with Pickled Plum Sauce

Kobachi

Braised Garland Chrysanthemum & “Eringi” Mushroom

Nimono

Braised Fried Fish Mousse with Shark’s Fin Sauce

Dainomono

Braised Red Snapper with “Yuba” Crepe & Sweet Soy Sauce

Japanese Steamed Rice
We are pleased to offer freshly steamed Koshihikari rice from the Uonuma region in Niigata Japan

Japanese Pickles

Miso Soup

Fruits in Season

Japanese Sweet

Green Tea

All meats used in today’s menu are quality and safety guaranteed

SELECTIONS

The following dishes can be requested at anytime during the flight
Please contact your flight attendant

Western Tray

Mushroom omelet

Prepared Fresh Fruits

Plain Yogurt

Coffee Tea

Japanese Frilled Fish Tray

Sautéed Sundried Radish

Grilled Fillet of Barracuda
Rolled Omelet
Fish Cake
Salted Kelp

Japanese Pickles

Miso Soup

Steamed Rice of Rice Porridge

Japanese A La Carte

Steamed Rice and Vegetable with Japanese Tea “Ochazuke”
Beef Curry Japanese Style
Simmered Eel in Sweet Soy Sauce
Braised Shark’s Fin with X.O. Sauce on Fried Rice

Noodle

Japanese “Udon” Noodles in soup with Fried Bean Curd
Chinese “Ramen” Noodles in soup with “Kagoshima” Pork Fillet
(Soy Sauce Flavor Soup or Miso Flavor Soup)

Western A La Carte

Seafood Dumpling Chinese Style in Soup
Sandwiches

Refreshment

Prepared Fresh Fruits

^ ^ ^ WHEW!^ ^ ^

The wines offered included Champagne Veuve Cliquot La Grand Dame 1993, Maison Champy Chassagne-Montrachet 2003 Premier Cru, Simi Chardonnay 2004 Sonoma County, Rene Mure Pinot Blanc 2003 (Alsace), Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron 1998 Pauillac AC, Silkwood Wines Syrah 2001 Stanislaus County and Vina Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 2003 (Chile). The premium sakes were Kamosi-Bito-Kuheiji and Kikunoshiro. Also on offer were two Japanese premium Shochu: Mori Izo and Kanehachi.

What can I say? This menu is fit for an emperor, no? I was a little confused with the “A La Carte” offerings in addition to the regular menu, but the flight attendant explained that I could mix and match anything from that section to create my own meal at whatever time I chose, or partake of either the Chef’s Recommendation or Autumn Taste of Japan menu during the main meal service. True first class service. I went with the Autumn Taste of Japan and it was truly one of the finest meals I’ve eaten in the sky. The Purser guided me on sake to accompany the meal as well, and even though I was the only non-Asian in the cabin, I never felt looked down upon with my lack of knowledge about when and how to eat each course. In fact, the crew and my very friendly Japanese seatmate went out of their way to explain everything. I felt truly pampered, and even though the meal was extensive, I was not overly full since the portions are small. I finished off with some fine Japanese whisky, and napped for about four hours in a rather hot and stuffy cabin.

As with the other Asian carriers, the curtains were drawn tight between business and first class, my bed was made for me when I was ready to retire, and the toilet was cleaned after every use. Not being able to resist noodle soup at 35,000 feet, I ordered a bowl of the Udon as a mid-flight snack and read my book since the movie selection was pretty awful. Breakfast was served about an hour out of San Francisco, and one could select anything from the “A La Carte” menu. Sticking with the Asian theme, I selected the Japanese Grilled Fish Tray, which was superb, with several cups of steaming green tea.

We were descending into the Bay Area and the screen at the front of the main cabin showed 15 minutes to final destination. Then we made a long, slow right turn to the west, and the screen suddenly changed to show 59 minutes to touchdown! The captain came on to announce that due to rain and strong winds at SFO, we’d been put into the holding pattern for about 45 minutes, and apologized for the delay. The crew immediately came through the cabin offering beverages. Non-alcoholic since the carts had already been sealed for customs. The delay turned into an hour, and we finally arrived a little over an hour behind schedule. Customs and Immigration were quick though, and I managed to get on an earlier flight to Los Angeles, shaving two hours off my original journey time.

So there you have it. Another wonderful trip over the Pacific, sufficiently (and in some cases, extraordinarily) pampered all the way. A few observations to close:

1. United needs to standardize their service in the international first class cabin. This will not happen, unfortunately.

2. Singapore Airlines is superior to Cathay Pacific on their intra-Asia service. This is my opinion, and there will be those who disagree. The seat pitch and recline are much better. I prefer the individual plating of the main course, and quite frankly, I think the food on Singapore Airlines is considerably better than on Cathay Pacific. Again, this is for intra-Asia service. I consider it to be a very close race on long haul first class; although again I think SQ holds a slight lead.

3. Suvarnabhumi Airport is a vast improvement over Don Muang, but not as well designed as the other new Asian mega-airports.

4. JAL is one of my new favorite carriers, despite the lack of “pod” seating in first class. The service (both on the ground and in the air) is superb, as are the food and wine.

5. If you’re contemplating a visit to Sri Lanka, go! I never felt unsafe at any time, and the people, culture, sights and food are all wonderful. You will be warmly welcomed and rewarded with a wonderful, affordable holiday if you go.

Ladies and gentlemen, and fellow FlyerTalkers :D, we've come to the end of another adventure. Thanks for flying with me again. I hope you’ve enjoyed the journey. I know you have a choice of Trip Reports and appreciate that you chose mine today. I look forward to welcoming all of you back again in the near future.

Coming up soon:

Some Atlantic pampering. Los Angeles-Zurich in first class with Swiss, and Frankfurt-San Francisco in first class with United, as well as assorted intra-Europe flights with Swiss, Flybe and Lufthansa.

Until next time …

Ooops ... duplicate post ...

That was a great report. Thank you.^
Strange that JAL does not have nicer seats.

The pod seats (Skysleeper Solo in JALspeak) are very nice, but only on NRT-JFK/ORD routes right now. I actually got to try both types, the older (Skysleeper) on SFO-NRT and then the pods on NRT-ORD. I thoroughly enjoyed the service, and found the crews friendly and very accommodating. I did notice though, that both flights were "hot and stuffy" as you did. Otherwise, it was top-notch and I can't wait to fly them again. AA doesn't even come close to JL's level of service on their flights to NRT. Very enjoyable reading ^

It's always enjoyable to find a trip report detailing First Class travel to distant corners of the globe. However, it is a rare and cherished treat to read one as well written and detailed as yours are. You have very few peers in the Trip Report forum.

Thanks for another fine effort, sftrvlr! I shall eagerly await your upcoming reports of Atlantic pampering.