Trip Reports - CO to Cologne, staying at the Intercontinental and leaving on Air Berlin

My interest in Cologne peaked when a friend raved about his trip there, so when my vacation at the beginning of November came I was ready to venture into new territory and try CO’s new nonstop flight from EWR. My itinerary was booked in Economy class and just for fun I have decided to continue from CGN to Paris on Air Berlin to have an intra-European LCC experience. Things were meant to be since I found a 14EUR one way fare from DUS to ORY on the date and time I wanted through AB’s website. Don’t you love it when the stars are lined up in the right way and the universe smiles at you? Time flies and pretty soon it was the night before my departure. I couldn’t sleep so I decided not to fight it.

CO 1049 SFO-EWR
Seat 22D - 753 Y/C
Dept. 8:30A – Arriv. 5:00P

I arrived at the airport 2 hours before departure with plenty of time to spare. There were huge lines at the CO counter and even the F/C Elite line was longer than usual so I decided to go to the President’s Club and check in there. Upon entering I heard another passenger ask the attendant how long the EWR flight was delayed. I started panicking and prayed that she was referring to the earlier 7:00A flight and not my flight. As luck would have it my flight was the one affected. The attendant reassured me that my connection was fine and that the crew would make up time up in the air. The flight was delayed for about 2 hours. I then settled down and called CO res to verify if the Cologne flight was delayed. The agent told me that the flight was leaving on time and that the estimated arrived time for my inbound flight from SFO was at 6:47P. The CGN flight leaves at 6:45P from EWR. She advised me to seek protection at the ticket counter and by now I felt a rush of adrenaline through my body. Any signs of exhaustion was vanished. The fact that today was Friday did not help at all. All flights were booked solid and when I inquired about connections through NW, KL or DL nothing was available.

At the ticket counter a nice agent double checked the connections and said that it still showed that I was going to miss the connection but advised me that she received word from operations that all connecting passengers were protected. Translation: the ball is in EWR’s court and passengers that missed connections will either be rebooked or provided accommodation for the night to continue the next morning. There was nothing I could do at this time since I was not officially misconnected and CO was adamant that everything was OK. By now I was becoming tired and decided to find refuge in DL’s Crown Room and relax for a while. Afterwards headed to the gate area and after passing through security I stopped at Alaska’s Boardroom for a quick visit. The lounge has been remodeled and the offerings are far better than DL or CO’s. At least AS provides a decent continental breakfast with pastries, bagels and fruits.

The boarding area was a zoo. Thank God for Elite status and being able to sit at the EMERGENCY EXIT row. As expected, this flight was full to the brim but FA’s made the best out of the situation. We departed at 10:30A, a full 2 hours later and things got interesting. Once we reached cruising altitude the FA made the usual welcome speech but she also added that the FA’s were all well rested and that the delay due to crew illegality was caused by the pilots and not them. I guess they were hearing it from the passengers. Nevertheless, I thought it was a bit odd to make such a statement. Soon breakfast (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762342220792/photo/294928803620345272/1) was served and it was fairly decent. At least it was free. Unfortunately we did not make up too much time and by the time we arrived into EWR it was 6:50P. A lot of passengers were connecting on this flight and neither the cockpit nor the FA's apologized for the delay. Even worse, there was no mention of connecting flights or status of such for those passengers affected by the crew. Total pathetic indifference.

to be continued....

CO 110 EWR-CGN
Seat 16C - 752 Y/C
Dept. 6:45P – Arriv. 8:10A

We touched down at 6:50P and once the seat belt sign was turned off everyone got up in unison. In the back of my head I felt sorry for the red coat agents meeting this flight and being surrounded by a mad crowd of passengers. My mind was conjuring up an image of the sheep being thrown to the wolves. To my surprise my connecting flight to Cologne was delayed by about 40 minutes when I checked the monitors. I hurried to my connecting gate and upon arrival it was empty. The sight of no agent waiting and the doors closed was disheartening. I checked the gate monitor and there was still 10 minutes left before departure time. Luckily a service counter was next to the gate so I inquired with the agent there. She looked at her watch and immediately called the jet bridge to let the agent working that flight know that she was walking me aboard. I thanked her profusely and proceeded towards my exit row seat when I saw two intruders occupying the row. The plane was wide open (about 40% full) and I was in no mood to argue so I continue all the way to the back to occupy a row for myself. Ricardo, the FA in the back, helped me locate an empty overhead bin and once settled I let a sigh of relief. A word of warning to those seating all the way back of the 757-200. Overhead bins are scarce and if the flight is full they will check your bags. An entire bin is set aside for crew use and the one above the last row is used for equipment storage.

The crew on this flight was exceptional and a big contrast from my other recent CO flights. A welcoming smile and helping hand go a long way. Everybody was attentive and friendly, water runs were frequent and I suspect that the light load contributed to the good mood. Nilda, our purser was the essence of professionalism and checked on me after departure to inquire if everything was all right. She maintained a presence throughout the cabin helping with the service. I asked her if the delay was due to connecting passengers and she replied that it was due to a minor mechanical so at this point I felt like the luckiest person in the world. That explains the absence of an agent at the gate. It’s hard not to have a sour taste after one has been assured by the CO staff in SFO that one was “protected”. I’m not blaming the staff so much as they were told what they knew but rather I am more upset with operations and the way this situation was handled. Obviously they did not delay this flight for connecting passengers so why the assurance in the first place. I have enough flying under my belt to know that airlines rarely hold the planes for passengers, much less one or a couple. A much better approach would have been to protect me on a different carrier flying non stop from SFO to Europe and connect from there sparing me of the uncertainties, but that is an expensive option and I doubt they will do that for a NW Elite. Protecting me on CO via IAH was impossible because all flights departing on this Friday morning were full. I figured that worst comes to worst CO could have stuck me on the last CDG out of EWR.

Although CO gets the thumbs up for at least providing meals in Y on domestic flights; on international flights they are really deficient. Lack of cocktail snacks (peanuts or tidbits) before the meal and a minimalist approach to tray set up (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762342220792/photo/294928803620296586/4) components (salad, main dish and a pre-packaged brownie only – where are the cheese and crackers? ) make for a less than stellar dining experience. Yes, this is Coach and one shouldn’t expect much, but it is hard not to compare notes when you have flown on AF and free champagne is one of the offerings during a proper cocktail service and the trays are better provisioned with appetizers like lobster terrine, an extra serving of cheese/crackers, yogurt and freshly baked dessert. Even UA has better international Y meals with fuller trays and sometimes ice cream for dessert.

Choices for tonight’s dinner were chicken or beef lasagna. By the time Ricardo got to my row the chicken was gone but he still gave me a choice between Indian Vegetarian (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762342220792/photo/294928803620187639/6) or beef lasagna (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762342220792/photo/294928803620296607/7). I asked for both and he happily complied. I give him an A for effort. Armed with half a dozen pillows and blankets I made myself comfortable and build my own version of a “flat bed”. On an empty flight with a row to yourself this arrangement is as close as you get to experience the comfort up front. Some might even sleep better like this in the back. Breakfast (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762342220792/photo/294928803620453413/10) was a croissant (at least warm) with fresh fruit (surprisingly sweet orange segments) served with a pad of butter and strawberry jam. Seconds were offered from a basket, which was a nice touch.

With the recent CO promotion to Cologne I’m sure a lot of you will be taking this flight and wondering how is the coach experience. If the flight is empty you will have a decent experience. If full, it will be uncomfortable. The food is lacking so bring your own snacks if you have a hearty appetite. CO seats are known for having a thin padding and after sitting in one position for a long time it can get truly painful. Those seating way in the back should prepare to relinquish your carry ons to be checked if there is no more space in the overheard bins due to very limited space. Add a bad crew to this mix and you can count on a hellish experience. There is little incentive to endorse flying this route except for the convenience of a non-stop into CGN or vicinity from the USA. However, I think the benefit is limited to those living on the East Coast and perhaps Midwest. I you are like me and live on the West Coast, then it would be better to fly on a nonstop to an European gateway and connect from there. One advantage is more sleeping time since most European flights leave later in the day. You don’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn to connect to EWR. If you must fly in the back, then AF (allow plenty of time to connect in CDG though), BA, VS, KL and UA offer a better product and all flights are operated with wide bodies. Personally I wouldn’t do this routing again.


INTERCONTINENTAL COLOGNE


Ominous clouds welcomed us while descending into Koln-Bonn airport. Going through Immigration and Customs took less than 15 minutes and once outside one can easily catch the train into town at the lower level of Terminal 2. There are automated ticket machines to buy passes choosing from a selection of languages for easier navigation. A very useful map is found at http://www.vrsinfo.de/download/5_2_Busnetzplan2006_Koeln.pdf courtesy of member FLYGVA. It lists all the major bus, S-bahn and U-bahn routes in the city. From the airport one can either take S13 or R8 into Cologne. The airport is located southeast of the city and the ride takes approximately 25 minutes. I stayed at the Intercontinental so the routing I chose was to Messe/Deutz station and from here connect to Heumarkt via S1/S8 or S9. The Intercontinental is within steps of the stop but be warned that there was a lot of street construction around when I came in early November.

The Intercontinental is voted one of the top hotels in the city and according to Trip Advisor it is ranked #3. It is located on 1 Pipinstrasse right by Hohe Strasse which is the major shopping street. There is a supermarket conveniently located next to it. Modern, stylish and welcoming are some of the adjectives that I will use to describe it. The service is impeccable and very accommodating. I was greeted warmly at the Ambassador desk and whisked to my Club room immediately despite my early arrival. This property has became one of my favorites among the Intercontinental chain. Throughout the hotel there were pieces of artwork adding to the sophisticated ambience. The elevator ride afforded a great view of the DOM and the staff at the Club could not have been more pleasant. There are two internet terminals in the back of the it for the use of guests along with a conference room. The Club itself is tastefully decorated with plush chairs in warm tones. My twin room was compact but very well appointed. It was tastefully decorated in a modern way and my Ambassador gifts arrived within 10 minutes after I entered the room. Here are some pictures ( http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762338965310) of the property that will give you a better idea of how it looks like.

Cologne is the fourth largest city in Germany and one of the easiest to navigate due to its layout. Its most impressive sight is the DOM ( http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762338965310/photo/294928803565545255/60) , a magnificent cathedral with two soaring spires that has been called the Mt. Everest of all cathedrals and named a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996. One needs to have a great look outside and inside its cavernous interior in order to appreciate its sheer size. Feeling brave and in need of exercise I climbed the 509 steps of the South Tower (admission 2EUR) for some breathtaking views. However, I do not recommend this exercise for those who are claustrophobic since the stairs are very narrow and you might have to stop and lean against the wall to let people going down on your way up.

The Altstadt or old town is a square containing picturesque buildings and nearby is Gross St. Martin (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762338965310/photo/294928803565540862/57) church considered one of the prettiest Romanesque churches in the city. Underneath the church is the Fischmarkt (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762338965310/photo/294928803565542372/58) where there is a row of colorful houses that are quite an attraction.

...to be continued

Lovely report! Looking forward to the rest..

Great report so far - keep it coming! Surprising that the breakfast had fruit instead of yogurt - because I'd guess yogurt would be cheaper and more filling.

I stayed at the IC Cologne back in ocotber and got upgraded to a suite. this hotel is dewfiantely one of the better IC properties and in a great location.

Not far from the Fischmarkt heading south is the Schokoladen Museum, a one of a kind institution dedicated to one of the most beloved addictions of modern times – chocolate. In it you will learn everything related to this concoction from cultivation to sampling. It’s the ultimate rush for a chocoholic. Cologne has many other museums but for the serious art seeker two great museums are recommended: the Museum Ludwig for post modern art and the Wallraf-Richartz-Museum-Fondation Corboud for some of the finest collections of art ranging from the 13th – 19th century.

Shoppers will not be disappointed with Cologne and they are well catered with a plethora of choices. Pedestrian only zones make browsing even more tempting and the main avenues for indulging in this vice are Hohe Strasse and Schildergasse. For further information please click on the following link:

http://www.koeln.nicecity.de/english/malls.htm

There are great places to eat all over Cologne and most major cuisines are well represented. Those on a budget might want to explore the Latin Quarter area also known as Zulpicher Viertel, along Zulpicher-Roon and Kyfhausser Strasse. The Belgisches Viertel or Belgian Quarter is another great area along Bismarck, Flandrische and Maasstrichtstrasse. For a more upmarket and sophisticated feel head north towards Friesenviertel also known as a place with great art scene and where artists congregate for the night. When I came on Saturday night it was busy and happening.

Here’s a link for dining information:
http://www.koeln.nicecity.de/english/title_eating.htm

Two useful resources that I used in planning this trip are Virtual tourist at http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Germany/Land_Nordrhein_Westfalen/Cologne-45550/TravelGuide-Cologne.html and Trip Advisor at http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g187371-Cologne_North_Rhine_Westphalia-Vacations.html.


AB 8418 – DUS-ORY
Seat 11A - Fokker 100 Y/C
Dept. 1745P – Arriv. 1855P

After an enjoyable break in Cologne it was time to bid farewell and continue my journey to Paris. I wanted to try a LCC inside Europe and Air Berlin seemed like a good choice. It is a highly regarded carrier by many travelers and Skytrax gave it a 4 stars rating. Originally my heart was set on Fly Niki but due to my itinerary Air Berlin worked out better. The website was relatively easy to navigate and very straight forward. Not being an Elite member in their program meant that I could not pre-reserve my seats for free, so I decided to chance it and do it at check-in. It is not such a big deal for a 1 hour flight, in my opinion. I believe the fee for reserving a seat is 5EUR per person. Taking the train from CGN Hauptbanhof (main station) to DUS airport was painless (I love German public transportation – efficient, reliable and easy). It’s a cliche but a good one. DUS airport is modern and user friendly with clearly marked signs everywhere. It has a good size and there is an observatory but you must pay a 2 EUR fee to access it. Check in at Air Berlin was quick, efficient and the agent assigned me an EMERGENCY seat at my request. I passed some time browsing through the stores at the gate and then decided to wait at the gate. Judging by the amount of people at the seating area 20 minutes before departure I could tell that this was going to be an empty flight.

Boarding began and it was orderly. Waling towards the Fokker 100 (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762345415034/photo/294928803689026313/2) there 2 FA’s positioned at the galley and they were caught by surprise when they saw us embarking. One of them stopped the couple in front while she took a bag of candy from the galley, emptied it in a container and offered it (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762345415034/photo/294928803689310743/3) to all passing passengers when entering the airplane. A nice welcoming gesture, I thought. Once settled the FA passed by and went over the rules of sitting by the EMERGENCY row. I had one bag placed under the seat in front of me and she advised me that per AB policy, anyone sitting at an EMERGENCY row must stowed the bags in the overhead compartment. She was very friendly and offered to place my bag in the bin. After take off I moved to an empty row with 3 seats. When the FA saw this she brought me the pillow and blanket from my previous seat with a smile. Now, that’s service!!! Seat pitch was very good and it seemed generous. The beverage cart made an appearance and on top there were some snacks available for sale (some chips/crisps and chocolate from what I saw). Complimentary sandwiches were offered and there was a choice between ham or cheese (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/zadw223/album/576460762345415034/photo/294928803689310653/6). Exceptional for a flight of this duration, especially coming from the USA where travelers have grown accustomed to the Greyhound service in the back. We soon landed into ORY (very 60’s looking in need of a major face lift) and I was ready to start a new chapter on my visit to the City of the Lights.

For those going to Cologne I wish you a great trip and hope that this report was somewhat useful in preparing you for your upcoming trip. It is a wonderfully relaxed city filled with great people and it definitely merits a stopover in any traveler’s itinerary. Thanks for taking time to read this and especially to those who have left comments.

Auf Wiedersehen!