Asia - Saigon 1 or 2 days

I have an upcoming flight to Europe and am going through SGN (in typical FT style to get a cheap fare :D ).

I can either stay there 1 or 2 nights. From what I have read there isn't much going on in SGN most of it seems to be outside which I wont have time to get to, so I thought I would stay near the airport if thats possible?? and then take the first flight out of SGN in the morning to HKG and spend the day in HKG. Am I doing the right thing or should I consider spending a couple of days in SGN, there is nothing worse than being stuck in a boring city waiting to leave. Also how are prices in SGN compared to say BKK???

thanks

If you're never been to Saigon before, it's certainly worth a day or two, although it's no Pyongyang. ;)

It's a rather frenetic city that's growing up fast, something like (I'd imagine) Bangkok a few decades ago. Some worthwhile sights include the Reunification Palace, aka the former bachelor pad of the president of South Vietnam, including the stupendously kitschy 1960s style recreation lounge and, I quote, "The Combat Duty Bedroom of the President (http://jpatokal.iki.fi/photo/travel/Vietnam/Saigon/ReunificationHall_CombatDuty.JPG)". Poke around the markets, get wired up on Vietnamese coffee, have a beer at Rex's, dance the night away at Apocalypse Now. Great food to be found too. Overall, prices are cheap, on level with BKK or cheaper yet, although foreigners are easily overcharged if you're not on your guard. ^

If you're never been to Saigon before, it's certainly worth a day or two, although it's no Pyongyang. ;)

It's a rather frenetic city that's growing up fast, something like (I'd imagine) Bangkok a few decades ago. Some worthwhile sights include the Reunification Palace, aka the former bachelor pad of the president of South Vietnam, including the stupendously kitschy 1960s style recreation lounge and, I quote, "The Combat Duty Bedroom of the President (http://jpatokal.iki.fi/photo/travel/Vietnam/Saigon/ReunificationHall_CombatDuty.JPG)". Poke around the markets, get wired up on Vietnamese coffee, have a beer at Rex's, dance the night away at Apocalypse Now. Great food to be found too. Overall, prices are cheap, on level with BKK or cheaper yet, although foreigners are easily overcharged if you're not on your guard. ^

Thanks jpatokal Pyongyang is hard to beat, but I think I'll give Saigon a go ;)

Youve twisted my metaphorical arm, plus a trip to a combat bedroom is to good an opportunity to pass up he must have been quite the kinky chap :D . Any suggestions on where to stay hotels/area? Prices look fairly decent and it looks like I could get something quite decent for around the $100/night mark am I on the money here???

I spent two days in SGN, which I think is enough time to give you the flavor of the city. Some other suggestions:

Opera House, Continental and Rex hotels, People's Party Bldg (old Hotel de Ville), Notre Dame, Post Office (designed by Eiffel), Presidential Palace, War Remnants Museum, China town and Binh Tay market, Thien Hau pagoda, History Museum, Emperor of Jade pagoda.

Great food and be sure to ask for Vietnames coffee.

I stayed in the Continental, which has an unbeatable location (right next to the Opera House) and fading remnants of colonial charm, but is looking rather beaten up and features rather Soviet-style service after decades in the matronly arms of Saigontourist (Vietnam's version of Intourist). Not really worth the US$70 facilitywise, but OK for the experience. I'm sure that in ten years time it'll be bought up by Raffles and, after a thorough renovation, will charge US$700/night...

We just returned from Vietnam, and a week in Saigon. I would recommend the Chancery Hotel Best Western. That or the Rex, so you'll be right in the heart of town. You get much better rates if you book through a site like asiarooms.com, rather than directly with the hotel or Best Western's website.
Enjoy!
Kate :)

The Best Western is a little bit out of the way. And the Rex is undergoing renovation and has not been getting favorable reviews lately. For something a little more central, you should check out the Grand Hotel, Continental (as mentioned above), Majestic (nice hotel, but construction across the street could be noisy). All are on Dong Khoi, which is the heart of D1. You can get all of them for less than $100.

No worries about being bored. There is plenty to see, do, and eat in HCMC.

Thanks for all the info....I'll have a look at those hotels... :)

Mr. Megatop and I stayed at the Caravelle Hotel in December 2003 for four nights. It is on the other side of the Opera House from the Continental and backs up to the Sheraton. The Sheraton looked a bit more up to 4.5* Western standards, but I just couldn't go all the way to Saigon and stay at a Sheraton. The Caravelle was, like the Continental and Rex, a hotel of note during the war. The Saigon Saigon bar on the roof of the Caravelle was, like a similar bar at the Rex, a spot from which war photographers shot the last days of the war and at which journos, Asia hands, agents, and so on dulled their sadness over all the death in support of a losing effort. The old Caravelle was basically demolished several years back, with a 20-story tower put up in its place to house modern rooms and deliver modern services. I'd equate it to what I imagine as a Crowne Plaza (I'm not sure that I've ever stayed in one). It had a decent pool and a good health club. The concierge was pretty good, and the service staff tried hard and largely succeeded at delivering fairly good service. The elaborate morning buffet in the lobby was rather pricey by Saigon standards but the room rates were very reasonable. Most important, the architects kept the Saigon Saigon bar, which has an indoor-outdoor location on a ninth floor rooftop where a part of the building stops (the tower continues upward over another part of the building). It is a marvelous spot for those who want to reminisce, and for those who (like me) know the war only from documentaries and books but can look out with wonder on the booming city straining to release itself from the shackles of communism.

The Park Hyatt was under construction on another side of Opera House Square next to the Continental. It looked like it was going to be quite nice and would evoke the feeling of historical Vietnam without actually having any of the history.

I agree that Raffles or some other such group should snap up the Continental and turn it into a luxury property, restoring the palm-draped lobby that housed a famous scene in Graham Greene's prescient "Quiet American" and witnesses other significant events, including a bombing during the Tet Offensive. When I went, the lobby had been foolishly converted into a supposedly mediocre Italian restaurant.

The Sheraton is a very nice hotel. I am not normally a tour guy, but I did book a tour from the Sheraton lobby. We drove to the Mekong, then took a large boat across the river, then a small boat to some villages and got to paddle a canoe through some very interesting areas. Now is the time to go before too many Americans visit.

Perhaps this post comes too late.... but I would certainly spend a couple of days in Saigon if you can. All the advice posted here so far is good advice.

Choose a city centre hotel - there isn't much near the airport. Journey time between the two is 25mins to 50mins depending on time of day. Saigon is hot - staying in the centre allows you to wander around a bit, return to your hotel room, dump stuff, cool off and then go out again.

The Park Hyatt is now open and is considered to be the best - the location is excellent too. For history then it would have to be the Caravelle - or if you want the dodgy service too then the Rex or the Continental. The last time I stayed in the Continental was 1996 - it cost US$128 a night. (Its nothing like that now.) I had a big suite - all very nice. No toothpaste. When I asked, I was told "maybe you can buy some on the street". US$100 a night probably won't get you the Park Hyatt but it should get you pretty much anywhere else.

I think the one "must see" is the Reunification Palace (still known as "Independence Palace" by locals) where presidents of South Vietnam were housed (junction of Nam Ky Khoi Nghia and Le Duan). The kitsch is great - most other buildings of its era in the world have been refurbished beyond recognition. Unlike other tourist attractions, this one includes a free guided tour. I've been round this building a dozen times with visiting customers. One time the guide became ill and I even finished it off! But here is the tip for FT'ers: they start really early - around 7.30am with the first group kicking off at about 8am. Few tourists bother to go that early. So if you do, you have a good chance of having a guide to yourself, or at least a small group. Much more fun. No waiting for others in your group to take photos. And you get to use the lifts too. Much better than trudging up the stairs in the heat of the day with 40 others.

Occasionally the building or one of its floors is closed. Best to ask at the entrance (on the left hand side) on your first day whether its open the following morning just to make sure. If not, consider doing the tour then just to be safe.

Remember you probably need a visa for Vietnam.

"US$100 a night probably won't get you the Park Hyatt but it should get you pretty much anywhere else".

USD$100 won't get you the Park Hyatt, Caravelle or Sheraton. Best rate this time of year is around $125++ at the Caravelle.

"US$100 a night probably won't get you the Park Hyatt but it should get you pretty much anywhere else".

USD$100 won't get you the Park Hyatt, Caravelle or Sheraton. Best rate this time of year is around $125++ at the Caravelle.

Thanks, I stand corrected, must have been thinking in GBP which I often do..

Looking back, the last rate I got for the Caravelle was US$108++. The Sheraton was a little less, though my client went for the Caravelle. That was June. Last November my old company had a corporate rate of US$95 (probably ++) for the Caravelle.

I think these places are fine for newcomers to Saigon. For anyone staying more than a couple of days wishing to save some money, I would suggest booking only a day or two and wandering around the centre. There are many smaller hotels that well under US$50 per night. Going further out, my own hotel in district 3, a mile from the centre in the direction of the airport is around US$20 to 25 (inc) (I pay less). You get aircon/satellite TV/newspaper/daily fruit etc. They generally do free airport pickup.

Our corporate rates are similar to what you list jimbo, unfortunately this time of year, these rooms at these rates fill up quite quickly. Just was quoted $95++ at the Legend Hotel. Same good location as the others and for the most part, it's on par with the others (except for the buffet which is not good, IMO).

A good choice for a cheaper hotel that always gets raive reviews is the Indochine on Hai Ba Trung. I've never hear a bad thing about it.

www.indochinehotel.com

The only hotel that truly deserved the 5* service is the Park Hyatt. The room is nice but not very roomy and furnished toward intimacy. The Hyatt has the best shower/bath room. The food in the Opera restaurant are not to the level of the hotel though. Most pricey hotel.

The Sheraton is a bright business hotel that has roomy room, particulary is you are able to get a 2 doubles room. This one has about 25% more space than the king or 2 twins room. The service is good but the shower temperature in some room varies wildly from time to time. One of the rare Sheraton in the world that I have been in with shower equiped with 3 shower heads. The food are standard hotel fare but better than most other hotel food. Second most pricey hotel.

The Caravelle service was bad but lately is getting better but you can still see a difference between the Caravelle versus Hyatt or Sheraton. The lunch buffet is good. Room are not as good as the Sheraton. You can get a room around ~$125. The restaurant has good table with excellent view to the Opera House.

The Renaissance staff are friendly versus the classy approach that the Hyatt took. The rooms are too dark and outdated even in the Executive level. The Executive lounge has a good view of the river and decent afternoon tea cocktail. You can usually find a room here for less than $100.

The Sofitel is on a par with Renaissance in term of room space. However, the walked in bathroom is better than the Renaissance. The executive lounge is OK for afternoon tea and has some nice view of the city. You sometimes can get a deal for the room that is less than $100.

You left out the excellent 2 level Club lounge at the Sheraton which is the best in town and the reason I will always stay there when in Saigon.

I love SGN. I have been there once before and I will return. I stayed at the Marriott Renaissance Riverside which has one of the best buffet breakfasts I have ever eaten. I had a view of the Mekong River and it was fascinating. For me one of the highlights was the beautiful French colonial architecture that is still very much intact in many places. The only difference now is that the chiefs of the communist party live there instead of the French colonalists!

I would never pay more than $20-$25 per night for a decent comfortable hotel with air conditioning and breakfast included. The rates quoted here are crazy tourists prices. I was just there a year ago so it could not have changed that much. Rex is stupid expensive. They were charging over $8 for a drink in the bar. The Vietnamese people I was with were completely offended by this.

I would never pay more than $20-$25 per night for a decent comfortable hotel with air conditioning and breakfast included. The rates quoted here are crazy tourists prices. I was just there a year ago so it could not have changed that much. Rex is stupid expensive. They were charging over $8 for a drink in the bar. The Vietnamese people I was with were completely offended by this.

Are you saying you wouldn't pay more than $25 for a room at one of the hotels mentioned or you wouldn't pay more than $25 for a room in Saigon full stop? If its the former then I would love to know how you can get a room for that price, if its the latter then I guess each to his own, I enjoy hostels when I'm travelling alone as they can be more fun but as I am only there a short period I would prefer something a bit better.

I was just there a year ago so it could not have changed that much. Rex is stupid expensive. They were charging over $8 for a drink in the bar. The Vietnamese people I was with were completely offended by this.

Its all "location location location". If you want plastic elephants on the roof then there's not much choice.

My first Rex experience was 1993. Then 1996. Then 1999. Then pretty much every year since I've been there for some reason. I've always found the service rude on the rooftop bar. Also if you're a western guy with a VN female they can be rather rude to the female assuming as a westerner you don't speak VN and that you'll be "paying for her".

I wonder if the Vietnamese people you refer to are local VN or are not resident overseas. There are different dynamics that go on - especially when going into "communist" places - a distinction that seems more important to visitors than locals.

Either way, most VN people I know aren't particularly offended by high prices. You only have to go to some of the "fashionable" clubs and observe the overpriced bottles of Remy Martin or Hennessy on the table to see the way that they'll happily pay over the odds if the location is right and being there gets them qudos. I suspect in the case of the Rex, most locals just can't understand why foreigners are so interested.

Things are getting better these days, but for the most part VN and foreigners don't mingle so well socially - they just have different tastes. That often leaves "tourist places" with poor service as proprietors assume they just won't come back anyway. One of the obvious exceptions to my non-mingling observation is the Highlands Cafe chain where there's often a good mix. I always seem to get good service there.

I too never stay in "big hotels", I've used the same friendly one for almost 10 years now. But for most visitors to VN its not practical. They want to book through a website/overseas agent into a well known chain with all the trappings. US$100/150 (or whatever) a night is no problem for a couple of nights if you've paid a multiple of that just for the flight ticket into VN - especially if its just another city on an itinerary which includes other cities which cost even more.

I have to say, I splurged for a night at the Park Hyatt, $189/night, and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Other than the Park Hyatt (and perhaps the Sheraton), there's no way in hell I would pay more than $35-45 a night in Saigon. The key is to find a nice (perhaps newly constructed) mini-hotel... no pool, but clean comfortable rooms and usually breakfast in the morning is included.

I love SGN. I have been there once before and I will return. I stayed at the Marriott Renaissance Riverside which has one of the best buffet breakfasts I have ever eaten. I had a view of the Mekong River and it was fascinating. For me one of the highlights was the beautiful French colonial architecture that is still very much intact in many places. The only difference now is that the chiefs of the communist party live there instead of the French colonalists!

If you stay in a very central place like Continental, be ready for motorbike smoke and noise starting at 5am. For me, the Continental is too centrally located. (And yes, if you care about such things, all those big centrally located hotels are Party establishments.)

These $25 hotels were not hostels. They were full fledged hotels with two beds, free internet access and a hot breakfast in their restaurant. It was in Saigon near a big park and only a very short moped ride away from the center. For the OP, who will only be there one or two nights, it is not a big deal so the higher priced hotels is a better option, however, typically people go to SGN for over a week. I wanted to stay at the Hyatt at $120 for a night or two but was prevented by these VN people that were traveling with me who thought that was the craziest thing they had ever heard to pay for a hotel in SGN but they typically stay for at least one month. But they also get VERY angry at me for tipping as well as they say it is completely destroying the economics for the people that live there but this is another issue. I was not allowed to pay for anything by myself as I would have been charged higher than VN people and a tip may have been expected. They are still trying come to terms with the $25 rate as it was $10-$15 per night in 1999.

But they also get VERY angry at me for tipping as well as they say it is completely destroying the economics for the people that live there but this is another issue.

I do agree its best not to tip in VN. Tipping is not really part of the local culture and though well intended can be divisive in my opinion as locals can't always compete. Actually I think the resentment is highest amongst the growing number of relatively poor expats - ones that lost jobs or businesses but are staying on to try and make things work out.

In most cafes/restaurants staff are regarded as proper employees and paid reasonably by local standards. It would be a pity if tipping had the consequence of licensing establishments to underpay customer facing staff and we end up with a situation as in the US where I'm told its my responsibility to tip in order to make up the wages of poorly paid staff - and procuring a tip becomes part of the thinking in delivering a service. (Maybe I'm naive in believing that the best service is usually delivered by someone not motivated by money!)

My hobbyhorse was also discussed here:
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=633804&page=3

Whoops, you're right. Its another issue.... but I couldn't resist...!!

I just returned and was surprised to see that in most restaurants and bars where I paid with a credit card there was no line to add a tip. Of course, most places also already added a 5 percent service charge.

I did get a massage at one place in D1 where a 75 minute massage was $7. After the massage I gave a $3 tip. The manager then handed me a sign that said for very good massage I was to tip $5. The massage was good and I don't quite know why they didn't just have their rates as $12 as I would have felt better about that and would have returned. Their practice caused me to get the rest of my massages elsewhere.

A French expat I met there told me Vietnamese only tip by rounding up slightly and that it's done as a way of flaunting how much money you have as opposed to showing gratitude for good service.

Correction my hotel actually was $22 (not $25) per night and is located in a quiet downtown section at the center of Ho Chi Minh City, opposite a park and just 15 minutes from the airport but very close to the tourist center as well. The rooms are equipped with a private bathroom, air conditioning, telephone, internet line, satellite television, refrigerator, hair-dryer and an electronic safe. Other hotel facilities included a restaurant, room service, meeting room and a car rental service. They accepted credit card. The rates were all inclusive of:
* Includes government sale tax and service
* Free city calls
* Free pick up from the airport (never used it)
* Free daily fresh fruit (nothing special)
* Free daily newspaper (Vietnam News)
* Free regular laundry for monthly stay
* Swimming pool, sauna, gym (don't trust it is working - nothing great)

I think the funny cultural part is the Vietnamese person that negotiated for me before I arrived thought I would not want to spend just a couple of dollars more for a nicer room so got me the cheapest room possible.

For those out in the country there is a saying about the job opportunities in Saigon being so good that the roads must be paved with gold. For those that have seen online videos of traffic in India it does not even compare to the massive congestion and caos in Saigon yet because it is mostly mopeds it is always flowing, much better than places like Bangkok, even during rush hour.

I did get a massage at one place in D1 where a 75 minute massage was $7. After the massage I gave a $3 tip. The manager then handed me a sign that said for very good massage I was to tip $5. The massage was good and I don't quite know why they didn't just have their rates as $12 as I would have felt better about that and would have returned. Their practice caused me to get the rest of my massages elsewhere.


Yeah sounds a bit odd, not to say rude. I don't really do the massage thing... I find it a stressful oscillation between tickle-torture and panic about impending total disablement. This coupled with general shyness....

When I have been to these places there's never been any pressure to tip. Maybe its a district 1 thing where alot of foreigners go. I have sometimes seen signs saying that "staff are not allowed to ask for tips" though this is not always in English. Sometimes you're asked to fill in a form giving feedback on the quality of the job - and sometimes there's a box asking whether you have a tip and even if so how much. I'm not sure what the purpose is - maybe the establishment gets a kickback? I'd suggest understating a tip if you give one and are asked how much. One girl told me that they get to keep pretty much the entire fee that the customer pays, but they get little salary - its almost as if they are self-employed within the establishment, except that they must show up everyday. This means they are just happy that you've walked through the door and pay the normal bill. Some days they get no customers at all. Alot of customers are regular... So I think if you like the massage its well worth getting the name/ref number and request the same person again. Then they get more cash...

Anyway, willing to stand corrected if anyone else chimes in with more info.

Westcoastman....

The park isn't "Cong Vien Le Van Tam" perchance?
The hotel isn't on Hai Ba Trung, perchance?

Just curious....

Will be visiting Vietnam for the first time, have only 2 nights in SGN (I imagine I'll want to go back, there's plenty to see, just not on this trip).

Since I have only one real full day, I'd love to be as efficient at seeing the city as possible. So would be great to have a guide take me around, make it painless.

Any suggestion of a guide who could take a day and show me the city?

Will be visiting Vietnam for the first time, have only 2 nights in SGN (I imagine I'll want to go back, there's plenty to see, just not on this trip).

Since I have only one real full day, I'd love to be as efficient at seeing the city as possible. So would be great to have a guide take me around, make it painless.

Any suggestion of a guide who could take a day and show me the city?

I visited for two days (see post 4 in this thread) and used a guide to maximize the little time I had.

Contact Tony at:

tony@anntours.com

http://www.anntours.com/

I had a car with driver and a guide for a full day. Guide was great, spoke good English, and really knew the city and its history. He made it seem very personal as well. At one of the temples, he paid for a good luck banner, showed me how to personalize it and hang it, then light incense.

Highly recommended.