Making my first trip to Cambodia and will be staying one day to see the temples of Ankor Wat. Arriving at 730p from BKK and departing the next evening around 7p to SGN. Staying at Le Meridien, but I am hoping someone can give me advice on how to maximize my time there. I know it is not long enough, but it was the only time I could squeeze it in on this trip.
Been to Vietnam multiple times and Bangkok several years ago, but this will be a first for Cambodia.
Thanks!
ajc1970
Oct 30, 06, 12:47 am
bring cash, in US dollars (lots of 1-dollar bills). they'll rip you off on any other exchange. they take dollars everywhere, and prefer them to the local currency.
there are no ATM machines (weren't when i was in siem reap in april 2005... but things can change).
there is a 24-hour bank in town where you can get credit card advances. on top of your credit card charges for the advance, the siem reap bank will charge you 5%.
hire a driver at the airport... they'll probably try to stick you with a $5 fare back to your hotel, but on a 1-day trip, i wouldn't bother trying to cut any deals (typically you can get a driver for a whole day for $5). ask your driver to pick you up the next day before sunrise and that you want to spend the whole day touring the angkhor wat ruins (he'll likely be very excited to be able to line up business for the next day)... i don't know if i was lucky, but my driver was very reliable... always showed up right on time in the mornings.
and they all know the primary ruin areas. the ruins are spread out so you'll have a busy day and you'll only cover a small percentage of them.
the drivers get kickbacks if they can bring your business to hotels and restaurants, so they'll be pushing you towards their preferred hotels and restaurants. i don't know about the quality of their hotels, but my driver took me to a really crappy restaurant... expensive with bad foreign food -- exactly the opposite of what i wanted in every respect. just have your driver take you "downtown" for food and walk around and pick the restaurant by yourself.
it's REALLY hot in cambodia that time of year. drink lots of liquids, wear a big hat and put on your suntan lotion.
and the kids begging you to buy their trinkets are impossible to avoid, but they're cute as hell and really clever (they'll even remember every little thing you say for days and use it to get you to buy from them in following days) and frankly poorer than you could ever imagine, so it's real easy to want to give them money. just realize that when you give 1 kid a $1 for a bottled water or map or umbrella or a carved wooden boat or whatever, the other 19 will start asking why you bought from him and not them, and then 20 more will show up and surround you.
it's always best to buy from them right as you're leaving, from your car door.
SEAUAKID
Oct 30, 06, 12:55 am
Just took a trip to Siem Reap a couple months ago. ATMs were available in town, but obviously not at the temple ruins.. so be sure to get enough cash from ATMs while in town. If at all possible, bring PLENTY of $1 bills with you. Seems that banks don't like changing your $20s into $1s... they will often impose a maximum of $10 in singles at any given time. There is much more to the temple ruins than just Angkor Wat... ask your driver to show you all of it. Can be done in a day, I did it. Granted, I moved at a swift clip..
l'etoile
Oct 30, 06, 8:48 am
Pick maybe two to three temples you most want to see. A lot of people plan their day so they go to the temple complex for sunrise, return to the hotel to rest during the heat of the day and then return to the temples in the afternoon. Merchants generally accept baht and dollars, and yes, it's not hard to find an ATM in town.
The Blue Pumpkin (same folks own the Angkor Cafe across from Angkor Wat) has good food as does Red Piano and the FCC.
If you're there on a Saturday night Dr. Beat Richner puts on an interesting "concert" and information program about pediatric medical needs in Cambodia. You can also walk around town at night as many shops are open late.
This guide to the wats is available for download for free. Learning something about the basic construction and so forth is worthwhile. I read that rather than hire a guide. http://www.theangkorguide.com
Bayon (216 giant heads carved into stone), Ta Phrom (left in a fairly natural state with giant tree roots draping over the walls) and Angkor Wat will likely not leave you disappointed if you pick those three to see.
vivrant
Oct 30, 06, 10:31 am
Good info in this thread. Can someone explain (or point me to a reference) the Visa situation for US citizens? TIA!
chexfan
Oct 30, 06, 11:54 am
This guide to the wats is available for download for free. Learning something about the basic construction and so forth is worthwhile. I read that rather than hire a guide. http://www.theangkorguide.comThanks for this link. It's absolutely what I was looking for but oculdn't find! :)
ElizabethS
Oct 30, 06, 11:54 am
We're going in Jan/07 - there's a guide named Pon Heary who gets great reviews on Fodors......I've booked her for 4 days - I think you might get the most out of it with a very experienced guide
Her email is:
ponheary@yahoo.com
doglover
Oct 30, 06, 11:57 am
Visas are easy -- bring the signed and completed visa app plus the requisite picture along with the exact visa fee in US dollars. You will be processed in 15 minutes or so depending on the line.
doglover
Oct 30, 06, 11:59 am
1 day is doable -- but could be a grueling day if you want to see most of what Angkor has to offer. We spread our visit out over 2 days so we could spend the heat of the day relaxing by the pool.
dll
Oct 30, 06, 12:10 pm
Three trips to Angkor yield the following advice. YMMV.
- do utilize the drivers from the airport as guides; some of them are surprisingly well-versed on the temple history and do a remarkable job of explaining them; they are not, however, permitted to enter with you. Also, the air-con cars they drive are a VERY NICE RETREAT from the heat.
- get a map and focus on one area - this will both permit you to see more and spend more time in each of them. Don't try to see everything but do get to Ta Phrom and Ta Som if you can (two of my favorites). Banteay Srei is too far out for one day, so probably avoid it.
- visit Angkor Wat proper at 12:00noon; it will be hot as H*LL but the bus tour crowds disappear for about 3 hours to eat and avoid the heat. I did this once and counted 15 people in the temple, half of them monks. If you can take 95 degrees of 11:00am sun, why not 100 degress of noon sun? :)
- if you must buy water or other things, find the most out of the way vendor to avoid being hassled by the others (it does get annoying)
- avoid Angkor for sunrise and sunset as the crowds are ridiculous (I mean that)
- do a bit of reading on the temples ahead of time; I guarantee it will enrich your experience, and if your driver is not among the more talkative or well-versed, be your only hope of understanding them
- if a cute young monk offers to take his picture with you, be wary; they will probably want to charge you $$. If you want your picture taken with a monk, approach them (with a smile of course). Some of my best memories of the hot afternoons inside Angkor Wat involved sitting down in a quiet corner and showing three monks pictures I had taken around the world. Very enriching.
- there is an ATM in Siem Reap; ask a driver to take you, don't go alone (I don't think it's unsafe but you never know)
- finally, after your long hot day, have a nice cool shower then walk/drive into the old city and get a $5 foot massage. What a treat!
- visas are upon arrival for US citizens; have 20USD and a passport photo ready to give them. Also, the temple pass for Angkor Wat is something else to prepare for. On the way to the temple area, you have to pass through a gate. Here you have to purchase a pass (one or multi-day), I think $25 for one day or $45 for three days. Also have passport photos ready for this as that would require another fee and I am sure incur a long line. I travel with lots of passport photos of myself for these reasons :)
Enjoy - I love Cambodia and its people dearly, and if you put yourself in the right frame of mind, you will too.
Solblanc
Nov 2, 06, 11:21 pm
Get a lot of rest and bring a lot of water. If you're leery about their bottled water, ask to open a young coconut for ice-cold juice.
As a previous poster indicated, bring a lot of $1 bills. As many as you can.
Some people like the air-conditioned car, but I prefer to ride in an open-air carriage attached to a motorcycle. Personally, I don't like being inside an air-conditioned environment when I'm all sweaty, but that's just me. The plus side of doing the open-air thing is that you won't feel so hot the minute you step out of the vehicle. And you will be stepping in and out of your vehicle a lot, there's plenty to see.
Save Ta Prohm for noon or past noon; that place is cooler and shadier.
seanthepilot
Nov 2, 06, 11:36 pm
Bring an old hat and long sleeved shirt to wear overtop your clothes. At each stop, buy ice cold water, take off the shirt and hat and drench them with water. Put them on soaking wet, and enjoy 'do-it-yourself aircon' Repeat Often :D
You can see quite a bit in a day, if you hydrate and cool yourself accordingly. Have fun!
JC5280
Nov 4, 06, 11:51 pm
Thank you all for this great advice! The hotel I am staying at (Le Meridian)presents a rate of around $70 for a car/guide for the day, so I think I will scope out the cab drivers from the airport.
Is it easy to get back to the hotel before we leave for SGN that night? We would be at the temples all morning shooting (photography) and would like to leave our bags at the hotel and come back for them later in the day (and hopefully a swim).
Can I get away with just bringing 1 dollar bills? Since I am only there about 24 hours, I would rather not try to use the ATM and can use CC at the hotel.
Thanks for all of the great feedback!
Telfes
Nov 5, 06, 12:05 am
I was there last summer for a few days & had a great time, though I did manage to get heat exhaustion one day. People aren't kidding when they advise drinking a LOT!
Yes, you can easily survive for 24 hours on $1 bills and I'd also advise bringing a few $5s for the pricier things.
Leaving your bags at the hotel would probably be best, but you will definitely want to get an early start to maximize your time and still allow enough time to get back to the hotel & then to the airport. Nothing is very far apart, the roads are crappy, so it takes a while to go a short distance.
As others stated, The Blue Pumpkin and the FCC are both good places to eat.
Have a great trip!
JC5280
Nov 7, 06, 11:21 pm
I understand its super hot, but are pants still required into the temples?
rjh
Nov 8, 06, 3:19 pm
Well, it's not that hot. Come back in April for for sampling heat. And, no, this is Cambodia, pants aren't required in temples. Plenty of tourists (and zero locals) wear shorts. Having said that, I wear lightweight, ripstop cotton pants.
Keep in mind that the footing on the temple steps can be tricky. I wouldn't wear flip flops, though plenty of people do.
Telfes
Nov 10, 06, 12:54 am
... Having said that, I wear lightweight, ripstop cotton pants.
Keep in mind that the footing on the temple steps can be tricky. I wouldn't wear flip flops, though plenty of people do.
Based on my experience, this seems sensible advice. The temple area is malaria-positive. For me, that was another reason to opt for more coverage.
From the CDC website on Malaria risk:
Cambodia: All, except no risk in Phnom Penh and around Lake Tonle Sap. Risk exists at the temple complex at Angkor Wat (Siem Reap).
dll
Nov 10, 06, 6:26 pm
I would definitely wear long pants - even light cotton ones will do. I suffered only a few mosquito bites, fortunately.
l'etoile
Nov 10, 06, 7:35 pm
I wear the Bug Off Exofficio clothing in malaria+ areas. I've been happy with it. If you only get once piece the scarves/bandanas are nice to put around your neck. I don't like bug spray on my face and the scarf keeps my face from getting bit.
Sweet Willie
Nov 11, 06, 2:36 pm
what a great thread ^ , just the type of feedback that I LOVE in Flyertalk.
This has just jumped up more than a few spots on my list. :)
Telfes
Nov 11, 06, 8:54 pm
what a great thread ^ , just the type of feedback that I LOVE in Flyertalk.
This has just jumped up more than a few spots on my list. :)
It *is* an incredible thing to see. Go when you can!
studio76
Nov 11, 06, 11:02 pm
We're going in Jan/07 - there's a guide named Pon Heary who gets great reviews on Fodors......I've booked her for 4 days - I think you might get the most out of it with a very experienced guide
Her email is:
ponheary@yahoo.com
Several other threads on FT as well recommended Pon Heary. Her brother is also a guide who she will book for you if she is busy. I would highly recommend either based on our trip earlier in the year.
All the other recommendations in this thread are pretty spot on. If you need a break/lunch take it late so you can be at the temples during the empty lunch time. Head back to the Meridien about 2 and have lunch and a swim at the pool, quite refreshing before you head back out. While the Sunset crowds are obscene if the air is clear might as well take advantage since your time is so short.
JC5280
Nov 14, 06, 11:17 pm
Visas are easy -- bring the signed and completed visa app plus the requisite picture along with the exact visa fee in US dollars. You will be processed in 15 minutes or so depending on the line.
Just did my eVisas online. Took a few minutes to fill out and upload a picture, but overnight, I am done! No wait at the airport!
$25/person, and they were approved the next morning (did them at 8p at night)
^
Michael
Nov 15, 06, 5:03 am
Just did my eVisas online. Took a few minutes to fill out and upload a picture, but overnight, I am done! No wait at the airport!
$25/person, and they were approved the next morning (did them at 8p at night)
^
I'd be interested in hearing how this works out for you. The e-Visa system is new for Cambodia, and so it would be great to get feedback from someone who has used it. Please post a report / follow-up on your experience.
Michael
naharragt
Nov 17, 06, 12:33 pm
Start your morning with a pre-sunrise drive up to Banteay Srei. It's different than the other sites you'll see. The carvings still have sharp edges. You should have a driver for the day; the hotel should set you up. Before heading to the airport on our way out, our driver took us to a great souvenir store. A million young ladies were all too pleased to show us around. They were very polite and not pushy. I'd go back to Angkor Wat/Siem Reap in a heartbeat.
DasKitty
Nov 17, 06, 2:27 pm
Several other threads on FT as well recommended Pon Heary. Her brother is also a guide who she will book for you if she is busy. I would highly recommend either based on our trip earlier in the year.
All the other recommendations in this thread are pretty spot on. If you need a break/lunch take it late so you can be at the temples during the empty lunch time. Head back to the Meridien about 2 and have lunch and a swim at the pool, quite refreshing before you head back out. While the Sunset crowds are obscene if the air is clear might as well take advantage since your time is so short.
Pon is great - I booked her when my wife and I were there in early October. We had her take us around for two days and her brother for the last day (she had a conflict).
We both actually thought her brother was better - in terms of ability to explain things in English to us. But they are both excellent....
In terms of price, she charges (or charged us, I should say)$45 a day (including driver), which is more expensive then some but usually cheaper than if you have your hotel arrange something (we were at Hotel de la Paix and they charged around $60, IIRC). Note that you'll have a few supplements for some of the temples - one was $10 extra to the driver as it was over an hour drive, and the tour of the floating village is an extra $10 per person for the boat ride, but totally worth it!.
The thing that others have noted about Pon that is great is that if you like you can visit the school where she sponsors many children. Essentially, in Siem Reap many children skip school and sell things at the temple areas to tourists - Pon pays for their books and uniforms to try and keep them going to classes. Made us feel much better about paying a few bucks more for her services!
vivrant
Nov 19, 06, 11:20 am
Several other threads on FT as well recommended Pon Heary. Her brother is also a guide who she will book for you if she is busy. I would highly recommend either based on our trip earlier in the year.
All the other recommendations in this thread are pretty spot on. If you need a break/lunch take it late so you can be at the temples during the empty lunch time. Head back to the Meridien about 2 and have lunch and a swim at the pool, quite refreshing before you head back out. While the Sunset crowds are obscene if the air is clear might as well take advantage since your time is so short.
I've booked her too (for my parents)! Well for 11/26 & 11/27 anyway. She's busy on 11/28, but said she would arrange a friend for that day. I'll post my parents experience with Pon upon their return. Thanks for the tip!
GadgetFreak
Nov 19, 06, 11:35 am
Lots of good suggestions. I would add, for a short trip focus on three sites, Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat and the ""jungle temple" (forgot the name). Angkor Wat is pretty obvious. Angkor Thom is a walled city nearby and was wonderful. The jungle temple has been left intentionally only partially restored so there are still trees growing out of the structures. It was really fascinating to see how the temple has been overgrown by the jungle.
Mosquitos are a real problem. In addition to malaria, dengue fever is rampant there. Use good quality bug repellent on bare skin and something on your clothes as well. Oh and absolutely get a guide. They can really help you maximize your visit.
l'etoile
Nov 19, 06, 12:00 pm
.. the ""jungle temple" ...
aka Ta Phrom, as mentioned early in the thread.
Braindrain
Nov 19, 06, 12:38 pm
Lots of good suggestions. I would add, for a short trip focus on three sites, Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat and the ""jungle temple" (forgot the name). Angkor Wat is pretty obvious. Angkor Thom is a walled city nearby and was wonderful. The jungle temple has been left intentionally only partially restored so there are still trees growing out of the structures. It was really fascinating to see how the temple has been overgrown by the jungle.
Thinking about a trip to Siem Reap. How long for the above itin? 1 day? 2?
GadgetFreak
Nov 19, 06, 12:43 pm
Thinking about a trip to Siem Reap. How long for the above itin? 1 day? 2?
You could probably do the above in 1 day but 2 would be a lot better. Depending on the time of year it would be preferable to hang out in an air conditioned hotel mid-day due to the heat. If you did that it would definately be two days.
redburgundy
Nov 19, 06, 8:31 pm
We did Banteay Srai, Ta Proem, Angkor Wat the first day,
Angkor Thom & Preah Khan the second day.
Pictures here:
http://krauss.ws/se-asia4/index4.htm
http://krauss.ws/se-asia5/index5.htm
B-HQC
Nov 20, 06, 10:00 am
I would like to hear more experiences about the malaria situation. Are malaria tablets required? How bad is the mosquito situation in Dec/Jan?
l'etoile
Nov 20, 06, 12:49 pm
I would like to hear more experiences about the malaria situation. Are malaria tablets required? How bad is the mosquito situation in Dec/Jan?
Check the CDC website for information about malaria in the area. No one's going to require you to take malaria prophylactics, but they are recommended. I've taken Malarone many times, which in trials has shown to have no side effects that the placebo group didn't experience. I've always paid for mine, which were on the expensive side (best deal at Costco or through some Canadian pharmacies), but I hear some medical insurance plans are covering them now (at least mine is).
Braindrain
Nov 20, 06, 1:36 pm
You could probably do the above in 1 day but 2 would be a lot better. Depending on the time of year it would be preferable to hang out in an air conditioned hotel mid-day due to the heat. If you did that it would definately be two days.
We did Banteay Srai, Ta Proem, Angkor Wat the first day,
Angkor Thom & Preah Khan the second day.
Thanks!
GadgetFreak
Nov 20, 06, 9:17 pm
Wirelessly posted (HTC TyTN: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows CE; PPC; 240x320) Opera 8.60 [en])
I would like to hear more experiences about the malaria situation. Are malaria tablets required? How bad is the mosquito situation in Dec/Jan?
We were there right before Christmas last year. It isnt just malaria but dengue fever. I think I remember a fairly new hospital there dedicated to dengue. Check the CDC website and consult your physician.
mag
Nov 22, 06, 1:37 pm
at night, have a drink at the foreign correspondents' club FCC... cool!
GadgetFreak
Nov 22, 06, 1:55 pm
Wirelessly posted (HTC TyTN: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows CE; PPC; 240x320) Opera 8.60 [en])
at night, have a drink at the foreign correspondents' club FCC... cool!
Good place for dinner as well.
FLYGVA
Nov 22, 06, 2:27 pm
I would like to hear more experiences about the malaria situation. Are malaria tablets required? How bad is the mosquito situation in Dec/Jan?
If you stay in Siem Reap (and the temples area) I would take tablets only as standby medicamentation, if you are in Phnom Penh, you not need them at all.
Redhead
Nov 22, 06, 3:20 pm
We're going in Jan/07 - there's a guide named Pon Heary who gets great reviews on Fodors......I've booked her for 4 days - I think you might get the most out of it with a very experienced guide
Her email is:
ponheary@yahoo.com
I've used Pon Heary and her brother, Dara. They were great. Dara met us right at the airport, had an air conditioned Camry, drove us around with very planned itinerary for 3 days, told us all the stories about the carvings, got us a hotel. I used them based on a friend's recommendation. I would HIGHLY recommend.
l'etoile
Nov 22, 06, 4:44 pm
If you stay in Siem Reap (and the temples area) I would take tablets only as standby medicamentation, ...
Malaria phrophylactics I'm aware of that are effective in the area require you to being taking them in advance of your visit and for a period after leaving. How and what do you take as a "standby med" and what is your method for deciding when to take it?
hiyo
Nov 24, 06, 7:59 pm
Several other threads on FT as well recommended Pon Heary. Her brother is also a guide who she will book for you if she is busy. I would highly recommend either based on our trip earlier in the year.
My wife and I were visiting Beng Melea the other day, escorted by a Cambodian land mine victim (artificial leg), employed at the temple to basically just show visitors the way through the temple. A non-English speaking young woman with a beautiful smile.
We met another American with an English speaking guide who took us under their wing. The American was Serial Traveler, the San Diego FlyerTalker. And the guide was Ponheary. An amazing experience became even more so. A real Moment.
I hope Serial Traveler posts more of her experience with Ponheary. We were left very impressed after the hour or so we spent with them.
The expert guide aspect does not tell the whole story of Ponheary. She is one of the real good people we get to occasionally meet in the world.
JC5280
Nov 26, 06, 7:58 pm
I'd be interested in hearing how this works out for you. The e-Visa system is new for Cambodia, and so it would be great to get feedback from someone who has used it. Please post a report / follow-up on your experience.
Michael
eVisa worked great! I was already through immigrations and picking up my bags when I looked back and saw some folks from my flight still in the visa processing line to get their visa. And that is before you even get to the line for immigration, which does not always move quickly. Most tourists on my flight from Bangkok were Japanese and German.
It is an extra $5 to do it ahead of time online, but the time savings for me, especially with limited time there, made it very worth it. Why spend precious time on your holiday going through this bland process when you can do it in a few minutes online before your trip starts? :D
Don't forget to to bring two copies of the email confirmation they send you when completing the eVisa online.
Telfes
Nov 26, 06, 8:16 pm
I went last summer -- I think within a few days of the new e-visas being in place. It was NOT a smooth process for the people I knew who had done the e-visas and in fact took longer than doing the regular visas (me). That said, IIRC, it was very early days for the new system and the kinks were not out. Or maybe they were just unlucky. All in all, the whole thing (visa, immigration, customs) was all very quick for me.
Telfes
Nov 26, 06, 8:17 pm
Good place for dinner as well.
Agreed -- the FCC has yummy food. I recommend the Fish Amok. ^
cathaana
Nov 26, 06, 10:09 pm
Just left Siem Reap yesterday. My doctor recommend doing standby medication so we didn't take anything. Which turned out to be a good choice because there were no mosquitos at all at the main temples and maybe two total when we did Kbal Spean and Beng Mealea.
I really like the Chivit for Thai food and the FCC for the spa and happy hour drinks. We also used the spa at the Shinta Mani which has a 25% discount on everything before 1:30.
FLYGVA
Nov 27, 06, 9:27 am
Malaria phrophylactics I'm aware of that are effective in the area require you to being taking them in advance of your visit and for a period after leaving. How and what do you take as a "standby med" and what is your method for deciding when to take it?
I have had "Lariam" the last time. Stany by means, if you have the indication of Malaria, you have to take a higher dosis (meaning more tablets at once - it is written in the Patient information leaflets how this medicamentation could be taken as stand by).
Honestly, I am not sure, but if I have high temperature and shivering (sorry, but my medical englisch is not the best) I would consuld a doctor and if no doctor available would decide to take the medicine.
Luckily, up to now there was no need (and hopefully won't in the future)
sany2
Dec 1, 06, 10:40 pm
I have had "Lariam" the last time. Stany by means, if you have the indication of Malaria, you have to take a higher dosis (meaning more tablets at once - it is written in the Patient information leaflets how this medicamentation could be taken as stand by).
Honestly, I am not sure, but if I have high temperature and shivering (sorry, but my medical englisch is not the best) I would consuld a doctor and if no doctor available would decide to take the medicine.
Luckily, up to now there was no need (and hopefully won't in the future)
It is recomended when going to malaria positive areas, you take the (oral) malaria vaccine. You must take it for a certain period before you would potentially come in contact with it, and something like once a week for four weeks after.. I can't remember the specifics despite the fact that I use it every time I go to India or similar areas.
Telfes
Dec 3, 06, 1:13 am
It is recomended when going to malaria positive areas, you take the (oral) malaria vaccine. You must take it for a certain period before you would potentially come in contact with it, and something like once a week for four weeks after.. I can't remember the specifics despite the fact that I use it every time I go to India or similar areas.
Agreed -- waiting until you have symptoms of malaria sounds a bit late to start meds to me, though I'm not a md.
cathaana
Dec 4, 06, 4:52 am
Actually it isn't. Depending on the area you are going to, stand-by can be the official recommendation.
GadgetFreak
Dec 11, 06, 10:28 am
I would not recommend that people take advice on malaria prophyaxis from a web site of well intentioned, but I think in some cases very poorly informed people. And I am not talking about any particular post or person, but rather the general idea that this isnt a great forum for medical advice. People and places are different and there are different types of malaria. People should consult the CDC web site (well informed people) and their health care professionals for particular advice for their medical situation and travel details. This is not a trivial disease, there have been estimates that it has killed more humans than all other causes COMBINED. And that includes old age and war. Even now, it is a leading cause of death in parts of the world. Many people, especially healthy ones that get state of the art care, recover fine; but it can be a very serious disease and deserves a discussion with a doc in my opinion if you are heading to a high risk area.
kkirksea
Dec 15, 06, 2:48 pm
Thanks to everybody! And I've another rousing reason to recommend flyertalk.com!^
I'm headed for Siem Reap in 2 weeks... all my books and tourist site references said it was Malaria free and don't worry. Because of the postings
I checked out the CDC..Surprise!... then quickly visited my doc and got a prescription made out for a set of prophylactic pills. Better safe than sorry!:)
B-HQC
Dec 15, 06, 10:36 pm
if you are heading to a high risk area.
I don't believe REP is anything close to a high risk area.
Chapel Hill Guy
Dec 15, 06, 11:54 pm
I don't believe REP is anything close to a high risk area.
You a doctor? I'm with GadgetFreak on this.
From the CDC site:
Malaria Risk by Country
Cambodia: All, except no risk in Phnom Penh and around Lake Tonle Sap. Risk exists at the temple complex at Angkor Wat (Siem Reap).
jpatokal
Dec 21, 06, 6:17 am
Cambodia: All, except no risk in Phnom Penh and around Lake Tonle Sap. Risk exists at the temple complex at Angkor Wat (Siem Reap).
So you can take your pick, as Siem Reap is "around" (right next to) Tonle Sap. :rolleyes:
My doc in Singapore, who knows a thing or two about tropical medicine, thinks taking malaria medication for trips of under a week to touristy places pretty much anywhere in SE Asia is not worth it. It's not a panacea anyway: no matter how doped up on Lariam you are, you still need to guard against mozzies, because they also carry dengue and host of other nasties.
GadgetFreak
Dec 21, 06, 6:37 am
So you can take your pick, as Siem Reap is "around" (right next to) Tonle Sap. :rolleyes:
My doc in Singapore, who knows a thing or two about tropical medicine, thinks taking malaria medication for trips of under a week to touristy places pretty much anywhere in SE Asia is not worth it. It's not a panacea anyway: no matter how doped up on Lariam you are, you still need to guard against mozzies, because they also carry dengue and host of other nasties.
Well, the CDC apparently doesnt consider it "around" the other area given there other description. I dont see how one could be any more specific than: "Risk exists at the temple complex at Angkor Wat (Siem Reap)." But how to respond to that is up to the individual and their doctor. You are definately right about the mosquitos. Dengue is a big problem in Siem Reap. They just built a new hospital there for all of the cases of childhood dengue. Insect repellent/avoidance is very important.
Michael
Dec 21, 06, 9:21 am
I've stayed out of this debate on purpose, but feel it's time to offer up my 80 riel (roughly equivalent to US$0.02 at the current exchange rates...).
I've been living in Cambodia for a while - close to 5 years now - and I have yet to hear of anyone catching malaria in or around Siem Reap. (Dengue is another story - lots of that around.)
I have no doubt that there is some malaria around the temples. But remember that the malaria-carrying mosquitos primarily bite at night -- and you're not likely to be at the temples then, are you?
Personally, I think that if you use mosquito repellent (which you should do, to prevent dengue) and avoid camping out at the temples at night, you'll be fine. I certainly don't take anti-malarials when I go to Siem Reap, and neither does anyone I know here. I also think the CDC warning is alarmist and/or gives a mistaken impression (i.e., it says that there's malaria at the temple complex, but does not say whether any risk exists in urban Siem Reap, where the hotels are and where travelers are likely to be at night), and question its basis.
But as in all things, YMMV. Bottom line: do what you feel comfortable doing, but bear in mind that there's no right or wrong answer to this issue.
That said, definitely use mosquito repellent to prevent dengue - it's very prevalent, very unpleasant and can be very dangerous.
- Michael
bug_me_not
Jan 6, 07, 5:13 am
at night, have a drink at the foreign correspondents' club FCC... cool!
In Siem Reap a Italian Lady (MAMA CARLA) is very famous like a guide. She is there since 1996 and she is like a foundation for the cambodiam people. Since 2005 she open an Italian restaurant in a no noisy place and help 11 cambodians vith them family.
The restaurt is also a good way to help the people in cambodia and the food is SUPERB !
The restaurant is located along the river on left and the name is OASI ITALIANA.
Have a good trip
mikeef
Jan 24, 07, 7:12 pm
Thinking about going to Siem Reap when we are in Asia in May. Are we really asking for trouble? I have no doubt that it will be brutally hot and entering the rainy season, but unfortunately, REP just isn't that doable from Boston (whoo-hoo, mileage run!). Assuming that we are limited to this time of year, is there any reason we shouldn't just deal with the heat and rain and enjoy ourselves?
Thanks!
Mike
Michael
Jan 24, 07, 8:11 pm
Thinking about going to Siem Reap when we are in Asia in May. Are we really asking for trouble? I have no doubt that it will be brutally hot and entering the rainy season, but unfortunately, REP just isn't that doable from Boston (whoo-hoo, mileage run!). Assuming that we are limited to this time of year, is there any reason we shouldn't just deal with the heat and rain and enjoy ourselves?
It'll be very hot, but not rainy - the rainy season doesn't usually start until June, and starts off with very short downpours ("mango rains") which don't tend to interfere with travel plans.
The Angkor temples are certainly worth it, so I would say: come visit and deal with the heat. Wear a hat, light cotton clothes, drink lots and lots of water, and avoid the hottest part of the day - see the temples in the early morning (starting at sunrise for some amazing views) and the late afternoon, and spend the middle part of the day by the pool, shopping or getting a massage at one of the many spas in Siem Reap.
Enjoy your trip,
Michael
mikeef
Jan 25, 07, 9:56 am
spend the middle part of the day by the pool, shopping or getting a massage at one of the many spas in Siem Reap.
Enjoy your trip,
Michael
Yeah, that sounds awful. My wife will hate the spas. :D
Booking trip now, will be staying at the Hotel de la Paix. Thanks!
Mike
rjh
Jan 25, 07, 11:43 am
Even mid day, when it's broiling at exposed places like Bayon, it can be quite pleasant at Ta Phrom.
So one thought would be to get lunch out at Bayon and then zap out to Ta Phrom, which is mostly deserted (because most people are in town in da pool).
(Prices have gone up at the Bayon restaurants under the tents. You can still go across the road and get some grilled chicken behind where the vendors set up, or, in wet season, some nice grilled crunchy frog.)
MisterTanaka
Jan 25, 07, 12:21 pm
Thinking about going to Siem Reap when we are in Asia in May. Are we really asking for trouble?
Heat is all relative. It seems like every where I've lived -- from Iowa to Washington, DC, to the Carolinas to Manila and now Hong Kong -- people say it's hotter there than anywhere else. Frankly, I didn't find Siem Reap in May to be any worse than any of those other places in the hot season. But, if you're used to spending summer in air conditioned comfort, climbing up and down and up and down and up and down in the heat will probably take a toll.
I had only one day at the temple complex, and after 11 hours in the heat (and climbing up and down and up and down), I did suffer from a bit of heat exhaustion. (Nothing a couple of cold showers and an icy banana shake didn't cure, though.) If you spend more than one day at the temples, you'll likely be on a much slower pace than I was and will not have any heat-related problems.
Cheetah_SA
Feb 1, 07, 5:33 am
eVisa worked great! I was already through immigrations and picking up my bags when I looked back and saw some folks from my flight still in the visa processing line to get their visa. And that is before you even get to the line for immigration, which does not always move quickly. Most tourists on my flight from Bangkok were Japanese and German.
It is an extra $5 to do it ahead of time online, but the time savings for me, especially with limited time there, made it very worth it. Why spend precious time on your holiday going through this bland process when you can do it in a few minutes online before your trip starts? :D
Don't forget to to bring two copies of the email confirmation they send you when completing the eVisa online.
This was my experience exactly - painless issuance and loads of time saved at the airport. All visas should work like this!
sany2
Feb 3, 07, 9:38 am
Going in August- staying at the Le Meridian.
Any comments on the hotel or the weather at that time?
oceangirl
Feb 4, 07, 8:04 am
Going in August- staying at the Le Meridian.
Any comments on the hotel or the weather at that time?
I was in Siem Reap in August/September 2006. 80'sF, humid, sunny. I tend to sweat more than the person next to me so I was extra prepared with the right fabrics, lots of water, good nutrition, etc. It didn't rain until my last night there. The driver's car had air conditioning in good working order so all was well. At night however, funny thing, I didn't have dinner on any outside terraces because I was just dripping in sweat.
I don't mind the heat and I enjoyed being there during low season. It felt like I had the temples to myself, until of course I got to the one from Tomb Raider. However I was traveling solo and it might have been nice to see a crowd every once in awhile. I stayed at the Shinta Mani. All in all, a pleasant time. I hope you enjoy your visit!
Redhead
Feb 7, 07, 4:54 am
Going in August- staying at the Le Meridian.
Any comments on the hotel or the weather at that time?
I was there in August 04. I would second oceangirl, humid (so wear cotton) and it rained for us most afternoons, but generally during "nap time". We would start early morning, take a break for lunch and a nap, then head out again around 3pm. I would highly recommend going whenever you have the chance. Also, at that time of year, you can visit the floating village by boat.
3Cforme
Feb 21, 07, 7:02 am
I just got back from a few days at Siem Reap and can report that the Pon Heary franchise broadens and deapens. Due to other commitments (other FlyerTalkers?) Pon Heary was not available so we toured with her colleague Bhounto. While his English is a bit halting, his knowledge of the temples and their history is encyclopedic. He also worked very well with the driver to route us efficiently and comfortably.
Perhaps it was high season rates, but we paid $50/day for the guide & driver plus $10 for the side trip to Banteay Srey.
Le Meridien was very good, although the lounge hours of 10A-4P seem calculated to serve very few guests since most everyone is touring (although I endorse the idea of a mid-day cooling break). Oddly, the pool closes at 7P.
rjh
Feb 21, 07, 8:56 pm
...
Perhaps it was high season rates, but we paid $50/day for the guide & driver plus $10 for the side trip to Banteay Srey...
Uh oh. Massive inflation hits Siem Reap tourism.
Yes, the going rate a couple of years ago (and maybe more recently?) used to be around $20 each for guide and driver (so $40 total) - and maybe that's still possible - but Cambodia has had a bit of inflation over the last couple of years. IIRC the official rates were around 6.7% in 2005 and 2.8% in 2006 - but there's a fair bit of criticism about how the CPI is weighted, especially the relatively low weight given to the cost of gas, which has gone up considerably in the last two years. Add in a price bump to reflect rising demand, and there's your $5 increase per guide/driver.
I imagine the extra charge for Banteay Srei is related to gas and wear & tear on the car, since that temple is much further away...and cars and motos have long charged extra for a trip there. (I'm not saying it's an appropriate amount, just noting that there's a justification.)
- Michael
Disclaimer: IANAE
chexfan
Feb 21, 07, 10:14 pm
I just got back from a few days at Siem Reap and can report that the Pon Heary franchise broadens and deapens...
...Perhaps it was high season rates, but we paid $50/day for the guide & driver plus $10 for the side trip to Banteay Srey...
Le Meridien was very good...Interesting. I'm conducting an informal poll here- did they quote you that price before or after you told them you were staying at the LeMeridien?
Cheetah_SA
Feb 22, 07, 4:07 am
Interesting. I'm conducting an informal poll here- did they quote you that price before or after you told them you were staying at the LeMeridien?Booking through the hotel at La Residence we were asked $30 pd each for driver and guide (though we only took a driver) plus an extra $6 for Banteay Srei.
I offer this as part of your informal survey - I knew this was over the odds but it was worth it for me not to have to find my own driver and haggle about price.
BTW I'm with Michael on this one - tourists complain when prices rise in third world countries, but when the vaue of money is eroded locals are not being "greedy" in raising prices. Besides, the dollar has depreciated drastically - maybe they are keeping their prices constant in Euros. ;)
And we, the tourists, are very much part of the reason that the value of money is eroded. The more we pour in the more "sophisticated" (read expensive) the place becomes and the price of land, food etc. all rises for the locals. I find it laughable that people in designer loafers, sunglasses and daypacks think that a multi-lingual, well-informed Cambodian guide's time is worth less than $25 per day. Or in my case, $30 for a multilingual, well-informed chauffeur together with use of a new, airconditioned car.
hiyo
Feb 22, 07, 9:03 am
The more we pour in the more "sophisticated" (read expensive) the place becomes and the price of land, food etc. all rises for the locals. I find it laughable that people in designer loafers, sunglasses and daypacks think that a multi-lingual, well-informed Cambodian guide's time is worth less than $25 per day. Or in my case, $30 for a multilingual, well-informed chauffeur together with use of a new, airconditioned car.
Agree completely. When my guesthouse (Not Le Meridien ;) ) recommended and introduced me to a well-dressed English (and Spanish) speaking driver with a new Camry and I was told it would be $30 a day, no matter where we went, was I really supposed to bargain? :rolleyes:
We saw Beng Melea and Banteay Srei that day, both included in the price.
3Cforme
Feb 22, 07, 9:19 am
Interesting. I'm conducting an informal poll here- did they quote you that price before or after you told them you were staying at the LeMeridien?
Chexfan: The price - and Banteay Srey surcharge clearly stated up-front - came before announcement that we would be at Le Meridien. No, I did not attempt to negotiate toward prices stated in this thread mere weeks earlier.
In terms of complaints about 3rd world prices, I agree it's possible to be churlish. I'm not going to complain too much about a $4 tuk tuk ride when others knowledgeable suggest it should be $2. The difference is less than 1/2 a Starbucks. However, as an economist (and perhaps regrettably attuned to prices) I will observe that Siem Reap is higher priced than BKK for equivalent meals, transportation and lodging. I accept that the Cambodians haven't got much and need to leverage what they've got. I have no regrets about spending the money to see Angkor in the fashion I did.
One can also note that $50 is 60% more than $30, and few of us would be blind to 60% differentials in other transactions.
Cheetah_SA
Feb 22, 07, 9:38 am
One can also note that $50 is 60% more than $30, and few of us would be blind to 60% differentials in other transactions.Exactly what the residents of Siem Reap are saying about their housing prices.
rjh
Feb 22, 07, 11:35 pm
Sample daily budget, April, 2006:
--1/3 of 3 day temple pass US$40/3
--hotel, $8 (Two Dragons guesthouse by Wat Bo road)
--breakfast at Soupdragon $.70
--lunch at Bayon restaurants $3 (inflation!)
--dinner <$5
--moto $6 for all day
--$1-2 Internet
--$2 laundry
--and a "tip" to my pal Darith, guide and driver for several years XXX
(and some beer, bien sur)
Just a data point.
AlexS
Feb 27, 07, 6:37 am
I just got back from a few days at Siem Reap and can report that the Pon Heary franchise broadens and deapens. Due to other commitments (other FlyerTalkers?) Pon Heary was not available so we toured with her colleague Bhounto. While his English is a bit halting, his knowledge of the temples and their history is encyclopedic. He also worked very well with the driver to route us efficiently and comfortably.
Perhaps it was high season rates, but we paid $50/day for the guide & driver plus $10 for the side trip to Banteay Srey.
Le Meridien was very good, although the lounge hours of 10A-4P seem calculated to serve very few guests since most everyone is touring (although I endorse the idea of a mid-day cooling break). Oddly, the pool closes at 7P.
Wow, Ponheary is developing quite a reputation--she's already booked for the first week in May! Looks like I'm getting her brother Dara for one day, and then her friend Mara.
Also I was quoted the same prices without mentioning that I'm staying at the Le Meridien :D
hiyo
Feb 27, 07, 10:23 am
Sample daily budget, April, 2006:
--1/3 of 3 day temple pass US$40/3
--hotel, $8 (Two Dragons guesthouse by Wat Bo road)
--breakfast at Soupdragon $.70
--lunch at Bayon restaurants $3 (inflation!)
--dinner <$5
--moto $6 for all day
--$1-2 Internet
--$2 laundry
--and a "tip" to my pal Darith, guide and driver for several years XXX
(and some beer, bien sur)
Just a data point.
We also stayed with Gordon at Two Dragons, albeit in a room for two. Here is our approximate expense list for the four days we spent in Siem Reap in November 2006:
Deluxe room at Two Dragons Guesthouse - $22x4=$88
Daily massage for two - $8x5=$40
Tuk-tuk with driver on daily retainer - $12x3 days =$36
Two three-day Angkor Park passes - $40x2=$80
One day Camry w/driver = $30
Two Beng Melea admission donations - $5x2=$10
Half day boat rental on Tonlie Sap Lake = $15
Four days laundry = $10
Meals - 4 days, average no more than $25 per day for two = $100
One splurge dinner = $30 w/tip for two
Local art and crafts from Artisans d'Angkor = $150
Tips = $50
Misc - water, fruit, postcards = $20
Ride to airport = $10
It comes out to $669 total for four days, maybe I missed something, but not much. Call it $700 for the four days, max.
One day we each got two massages, hence the anomaly in that accounting. :D
That's a lot of bang for the buck.
rjh
Feb 27, 07, 6:28 pm
deleted by author as off topic and generally stupid
MegatopLover
Feb 28, 07, 8:46 am
Booking through the hotel at La Residence we were asked $30 pd each for driver and guide (though we only took a driver) plus an extra $6 for Banteay Srei.
Cheetah_SA: Can you give us a review or at least a few comments on La Residence D'Angkor? I'm considering booking in for three days in July. What are the rooms like in terms of size and comfort? I've seen the desriptions and photos on their website but, oddly, it doesn't note the size of the rooms, which makes me wonder. Would you recommend the river view, garden view, or pool view rooms? Did you arrange an airport transfer through the hotel? If so, how much was it?
The alternative would be the Hotel de la Paix. That hotel (much-discussed on FT) looks quite good, but I'm leaning toward the more Cambodian-looking La Residence vs. the more modern-looking HdlP.
rjh
Feb 28, 07, 10:20 pm
I haven't stayed at La Residence, but I'd be a bit concerned that the river view rooms would be noisy since the river road can be busy.
Cheetah_SA
Mar 1, 07, 2:21 pm
Cheetah_SA: Can you give us a review or at least a few comments on La Residence D'Angkor? I'm considering booking in for three days in July. What are the rooms like in terms of size and comfort? I've seen the desriptions and photos on their website but, oddly, it doesn't note the size of the rooms, which makes me wonder. Would you recommend the river view, garden view, or pool view rooms? Did you arrange an airport transfer through the hotel? If so, how much was it?
The alternative would be the Hotel de la Paix. That hotel (much-discussed on FT) looks quite good, but I'm leaning toward the more Cambodian-looking La Residence vs. the more modern-looking HdlP.I intend to write a review... sometime! In the meantime:
The rooms are ample in size (35sq m?) and well designed so that they feel spacious and uncluttered. I recommend pool view (to avoid noise as mentioned) and a high floor for privacy and, hopefully, fewer mozzies. The hotel is much nicer than the web shows IMO, mainly because the traditional architecture is so appealing. The use of hard woods and laterite (the fascinating local stone that was used to construct many of the temples) gives the place an "authentic" feel. HDLP is wonderfully chic and modern (in a way that was far too self-conscious for SO's taste, hence my having to find an alternative!) - but it could be anywhere in the world.
Other highlights: We had an excellent Khmer meal in the restaurant which has free shows of apsara dancing several nights a week. Very good light meals served at the bar. The gardens are very well tended and the pool is gorgeous and long enough to provide exercise for those who want it. Very friendly and helpful staff - but like in Thailand there can be the occasional struggle to communicate exactly what you want until a senior takes over.
Some misgivings: I don't like toiletries of dubious provenance decanted into pottery flagons (used my own except for the nice cinnamon soap). The pool loungers can get crowded at siesta time. Nothing is cheap by Cambodian standards (though I was never left with the feeling of having been gouged since the quality was uniformly excellent).
Acid test: would I go back there? Unhesitatingly, yes! I paid about the same as the HDLP was asking and at that price I would choose La Residence every time.
The hotel transfer from the airport was $10. If you mail them they will send you a comprehensive price list for all the excursions etc. that they offer.
THECLIPPERS
Mar 1, 07, 2:32 pm
Don't forget the visa on arrival fee and the country exit fee. I think this will add another $50.00 or so per person.
MegatopLover
Mar 1, 07, 5:49 pm
Thanks for the report, Cheetah_SA! Quite helpful.
Yaatri
Aug 21, 07, 4:41 pm
Malaria phrophylactics I'm aware of that are effective in the area require you to being taking them in advance of your visit and for a period after leaving. How and what do you take as a "standby med" and what is your method for deciding when to take it?
Well, the CDC apparently doesnt consider it "around" the other area given there other description. I don't see how one could be any more specific than: "Risk exists at the temple complex at Angkor Wat (Siem Reap)." But how to respond to that is up to the individual and their doctor. You are definately right about the mosquitos. Dengue is a big problem in Siem Reap. They just built a new hospital there for all of the cases of childhood dengue. Insect repellent/avoidance is very important.
CDC's advice turns out to be leaning towards extreme caution. Beginning with 1992, when we first considered consulting a medical professional for our trip to India, we were advised to take Lariam for all our travel to India, Thailand, Malaysia etc. The kids and I took it but my wife couldn't as she was nursing. My wife never caught malaria. After numerous trips, we decided that it was a precaution against minimal risk.
Yaatri
Aug 21, 07, 4:51 pm
I was there in August 04. I would second oceangirl, humid (so wear cotton) and it rained for us most afternoons, but generally during "nap time". We would start early morning, take a break for lunch and a nap, then head out again around 3pm. I would highly recommend going whenever you have the chance. Also, at that time of year, you can visit the floating village by boat.
I am thinking of going in a couple of weeks. September and October, according to the LP guide are the rainiest months. rains will cool the temps off, but will make overland travel more difficult. I am planning to the land route from BKK.
Yaatri
Aug 21, 07, 4:56 pm
Sample daily budget, April, 2006:
--1/3 of 3 day temple pass US$40/3
--hotel, $8 (Two Dragons guesthouse by Wat Bo road)
--breakfast at Soupdragon $.70
--lunch at Bayon restaurants $3 (inflation!)
--dinner <$5
--moto $6 for all day
--$1-2 Internet
--$2 laundry
--and a "tip" to my pal Darith, guide and driver for several years XXX
(and some beer, bien sur)
Just a data point.
That's my kind of travel. I do ot plan on staying in hotels of Meridien class as, IMHO, the entire point of travelling to Cambodia is lost of you insulate yourself in a a nice hotel unlikely to be frequented by locals of a more humble variety.
chexfan
Aug 21, 07, 5:22 pm
I am planning to the land route from BKK.For the adventure? to save money?
Yaatri
Aug 21, 07, 6:04 pm
For the adventure? to save money?
Both. I have also done SIN to Thailand by land. Took a bus from SIN to Malacca. After spending a couple of days there, I took an overnight bus to Kuala Kedah via Kuala Lumpur where I arrived early in the morning. It turns out that this was a new bus station far out of town, while I had expected to arrive at a bus station in town, as I had read in the LP book. So the train option to Thailand was ruled out. I took a taxi to the border where I crossed to Thailand on foot. From there, I travelled on the back of a pick up truck followed by shared taxi and on the back of a motorbike, ferry you name it.
I like to do things different, and discover my own ways of doing things. This trip will be an exploratory trip designed as a scout trip to plan for a family trip. When I take family with me, I would take a taxi from BKK to the Thai Cambodian border instead of taking the train or the bus, and stay at a better hotel in Siem Reap.
Michael
Aug 21, 07, 9:25 pm
I am thinking of going in a couple of weeks. September and October, according to the LP guide are the rainiest months. rains will cool the temps off, but will make overland travel more difficult. I am planning to the land route from BKK.
The road from Poipet (the most common border crossing on the BKK to Siem Reap overland route) to Siem Reap is still in bad shape AFAIK. It is one of the few main highways (the only?) that has not been upgraded. At the height of the rainy season, I would plan for a long and possibly somewhat uncomfortable trip.
I suggest you read the tips on the overland route that are available on www.talesofasia.com and www.canbypublications.com.
I've gone overland between Cambodia and Thailand, and expect to do so again in the future, but personally I'd avoid this route at that time of year.
That's my kind of travel. I do ot plan on staying in hotels of Meridien class as, IMHO, the entire point of travelling to Cambodia is lost of you insulate yourself in a a nice hotel unlikely to be frequented by locals of a more humble variety.
While I agree that there are many reasons not to stay at Le Meridien et al., I don't think you should be under any illusions about "more humble" Cambodians staying at your hotel. In a country with annual per capita GDP of around US$360 per year, even the $20 a night hotel room is way too expensive. (Of course, that's just the mean. There are also a number of rich -- and even extremely rich -- Cambodians; but they're more likely to stay at Le Meridien et al.)
I like to do things different, and discover my own ways of doing things. This trip will be an exploratory trip designed as a scout trip to plan for a family trip. When I take family with me, I would take a taxi from BKK to the Thai Cambodian border instead of taking the train or the bus, and stay at a better hotel in Siem Reap.
Whatever you do, I would stay away from the Khao San Road etc package travel from BKK to Siem Reap. The price is very cheap -- too cheap, in fact -- and the operators have a reputation for delivering sub-standard service and ripping off the passengers (e.g., bogus visa processing fees, slowing down the travel time to arrive late at night to a partner guesthouse in SR, etc.). Check the www.talesofasia.com page for more information on the various scams.
Enjoy your trip!
- Michael
MegatopLover
Aug 22, 07, 6:47 am
Having now done my Angkor trip, I'll add two data points on the Malaria issue: after my doctor gave me a real hassle about having to come in for an office visit to get the anti-malaria pills, I decided to forego them in favor of copious use of mosquito repellant. I picked up the repellant in BKK. One pharmacy (Boots or Watson's, can't remember which) had the usual stuff with DEET, the essential active ingredient, in the orange spray-can. The other had only fancy spray-pump bottles that did not verifiably contain DEET. So even if all repellants at home have Deet, be sure to read the lable when buying it overseas, because some don't.
At Angkor, I carried the stuff in the car daily and sprayed it on once or twice a day before going into the temples. Not a single bite. YMMV.
BTW: Before leaving home, I spent $25+ on a very fancy guidebook to the many temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park, the Treasures of Angkor put out by White Star Publishers. Many of the ubiquitous kids selling things in the park had copies of the exact same book for $5, bargainable down to $4 or even $3. It appeared to be a legitimate (but possibly stolen/misappropriated) copy, with top-quality photo prints and none of the copying errors commonly found in, say, bootlegged books for sale in Vietnam.
Yaatri
Aug 22, 07, 9:55 am
The road from Poipet (the most common border crossing on the BKK to Siem Reap overland route) to Siem Reap is still in bad shape AFAIK. It is one of the few main highways (the only?) that has not been upgraded. At the height of the rainy season, I would plan for a long and possibly somewhat uncomfortable trip.
I suggest you read the tips on the overland route that are available on www.talesofasia.com and www.canbypublications.com.
I've gone overland between Cambodia and Thailand, and expect to do so again in the future, but personally I'd avoid this route at that time of year.
The weather and the state of the Popet to Siem Reap road during the rains has been my concern too. I may have to take your advice regarding avoiding land route at this time of the year. On the other hand if I choose not to avoid it, I will have to plan a day or two extra for the Poipet to Sieam Rep trip. I also have a fear of snakes, more than what is probably reasonable.:eek: One is more likely to stumble upon snakes after the rains.
Thanks for the links Michael I had already stumbled upon the Tales of Asia link before I started posting in this thread. I had on some of my earlier trips visited some Khmer era Hindu temples in Thailand on my own. Between then and now my wife did not feel comfortable travelling to Cambodia. Now that the children are older, 14 and 10, she is willing to try it out.
While I agree that there are many reasons not to stay at Le Meridien et al., I don't think you should be under any illusions about "more humble" Cambodians staying at your hotel. In a country with annual per capita GDP of around US$360 per year, even the $20 a night hotel room is way too expensive. (Of course, that's just the mean. There are also a number of rich -- and even extremely rich -- Cambodians; but they're more likely to stay at Le Meridien et al.)
I agree with what you have said here regarding an average Cambodian being able to afford a $20 hotel. Let me put it another way. The cost of staying Meridien, is way out of line with the local costs. I do not want to line pockets of a multnantional hotel corprorartion. Athough a $20 hotel is also beyond the means of an average Cambodian, a larger percentgage of what spend is likely to remain within Cambodian economy and help locally owned establishment. Although I was born in India and spent my growing years there, I am handicapped by how much roughing I can take. Also I am more likely to meet do it yourself kind of tourists in non-Meridien kind of hotels. In all of our travels I always prefer DIY kind of travels.
Whatever you do, I would stay away from the Khao San Road etc package travel from BKK to Siem Reap. The price is very cheap -- too cheap, in fact -- and the operators have a reputation for delivering sub-standard service and ripping off the passengers (e.g., bogus visa processing fees, slowing down the travel time to arrive late at night to a partner guesthouse in SR, etc.). Check the www.talesofasia.com page for more information on the various scams.
Enjoy your trip!
- Michael
I will certainly avoid the scam bus, AKA the KSR package deals. I wish I could read Thai and Khmer script. My understanding is the alphabet and the scripts are derived from southern Indian scripts, none of which I can read. The scheme of alphabet is similar to north Indian alphabets though. I can comprehend meanings of many names, such as Suvarnabhoomi, Prasat, Nakhon Ratchasima etc without having them explained to me. Such names are directly dervied from Sanskrit, which I am pretty good at. :)
l'etoile
Aug 22, 07, 10:15 am
Yaatri: You may want to consider staying at Shinta Mani, which provides free hospitality training to at-risk Cambodians in addition to having a lot of out-reach projects. They've also received awards for responsible tourism.
Yaatri
Aug 22, 07, 10:30 am
Yaatri: You may want to consider staying at Shinta Mani, which provides free hospitality training to at-risk Cambodians in addition to having a lot of out-reach projects. They've also received awards for responsible tourism.
Thanks L'etoile. It seems you understand what motivates me. My father retired as a principal of a high school in 1987. Since then he has been directing a project, without a salary, for street children in India that arranges for street children to go back to school, instead of helping their parents financially. IN 20 years, he could have earned another pension. :D
I will certainly consider that when I take my wife and children with me. For my first trip, I will probably stay at one of the more humble establishments.
TrojanTraveler
Aug 22, 07, 10:32 am
Having now done my Angkor trip, I'll add two data points on the Malaria issue: after my doctor gave me a real hassle about having to come in for an office visit to get the anti-malaria pills, I decided to forego them in favor of copious use of mosquito repellant. I picked up the repellant in BKK. One pharmacy (Boots or Watson's, can't remember which) had the usual stuff with DEET, the essential active ingredient, in the orange spray-can. The other had only fancy spray-pump bottles that did not verifiably contain DEET. So even if all repellants at home have Deet, be sure to read the lable when buying it overseas, because some don't.
At Angkor, I carried the stuff in the car daily and sprayed it on once or twice a day before going into the temples. Not a single bite. YMMV.
MTL, while you were in Siem Reap, did you notice any place where you could buy repellent with DEET? (If you are familiar with the area, I'll be staying at HDP.) I'd like to try to only take carry-ons, but may have trouble getting DEET past airport security. Thanks in advance...
Going to be there in late April, so don't know if the bugs pass out from the intense heat at that time of year.
Yaatri
Aug 22, 07, 10:34 am
Oops, the question was already answered.
Michael
Aug 22, 07, 10:15 pm
I agree with what you have said here regarding an average Cambodian being able to afford a $20 hotel. Let me put it another way. The cost of staying Meridien, is way out of line with the local costs. I do not want to line pockets of a multnantional hotel corprorartion. Athough a $20 hotel is also beyond the means of an average Cambodian, a larger percentgage of what spend is likely to remain within Cambodian economy and help locally owned establishment. Although I was born in India and spent my growing years there, I am handicapped by how much roughing I can take. Also I am more likely to meet do it yourself kind of tourists in non-Meridien kind of hotels. In all of our travels I always prefer DIY kind of travels.
All of which are reasons that I completely agree with -- though note that even many of the small establishments are foreign-owned.
I will certainly avoid the scam bus, AKA the KSR package deals. I wish I could read Thai and Khmer script. My understanding is the alphabet and the scripts are derived from southern Indian scripts, none of which I can read. The scheme of alphabet is similar to north Indian alphabets though. I can comprehend meanings of many names, such as Suvarnabhoomi, Prasat, Nakhon Ratchasima etc without having them explained to me. Such names are directly dervied from Sanskrit, which I am pretty good at. :)
That's the Hindu influence for you. Both Thai and Khmer also have a large number of words from Pali.
MTL, while you were in Siem Reap, did you notice any place where you could buy repellent with DEET? (If you are familiar with the area, I'll be staying at HDP.) I'd like to try to only take carry-ons, but may have trouble getting DEET past airport security. Thanks in advance...
Going to be there in late April, so don't know if the bugs pass out from the intense heat at that time of year.
Yes, it's very hot in April. Drink lots of water.
Re: the DEET, it's easily available at many pharmacies and supermarkets in Phnom Penh; and although I don't know first-hand, I would be surprised if it were not similarly available in Siem Reap.
- Michael
MegatopLover
Aug 23, 07, 6:44 am
MTL, while you were in Siem Reap, did you notice any place where you could buy repellent with DEET? (If you are familiar with the area, I'll be staying at HDP.) I'd like to try to only take carry-ons, but may have trouble getting DEET past airport security. Thanks in advance...
Going to be there in late April, so don't know if the bugs pass out from the intense heat at that time of year.
We stayed at the HdlP too. The "Central Market" is catty corner to the hotel. It has all kinds of souvenir stands and such. I don't specifically recall a pharmacy-like outfit. On another corner of the same intersection, a gas station cum mini-mart had a selection of all manner of things. I wasn't looking for bug spray because I already had some, but that's where I'd check first. IIRC, there was also a pharmacy within easy walking distance of the hotel, going up the opposite side of the main street towards the temples. That also looked like it would have bug spray. Nevertheless, I was suprised when one of the pharmacies in BKK didn't have the stuff with DEET, so all bets are off. I think you'll be okay, but I can't be certain. Sorry.
dyung
Aug 25, 07, 2:27 am
MTL, while you were in Siem Reap, did you notice any place where you could buy repellent with DEET? (If you are familiar with the area, I'll be staying at HDP.) I'd like to try to only take carry-ons, but may have trouble getting DEET past airport security. Thanks in advance...
It shouldn't be that hard. I took a trip in late May and I took everything I needed, all crammed into my 1qt. baggie. I fit in there soap, shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, sunscreen, and bug spray all in that bag. Just buy the largest packages you can that use the least amount of space and get a bag with strong seams. :D
Yaatri
Aug 27, 07, 5:14 am
CAn one buy a local SIM card in Siem Reap? If yes, does anyone know where? I just found the answer at tales of Asia site that foreigners cannot get a SIM card unless they have a legitimate demonstrable business interest. I will leave the question and the answer here in case someone else has the same question.
jpatokal
Aug 27, 07, 8:22 am
CAn one buy a local SIM card in Siem Reap? If yes, does anyone know where? I just found the answer at tales of Asia site that foreigners cannot get a SIM card unless they have a legitimate demonstrable business interest.
...or they get a local to buy it for them, which would probably cost you all of a dollar or two in tips. (Technically illegal, of course.)
imm2b
Aug 27, 07, 2:48 pm
Wow, Ponheary is developing quite a reputation--she's already booked for the first week in May! Looks like I'm getting her brother Dara for one day, and then her friend Mara.
Also I was quoted the same prices without mentioning that I'm staying at the Le Meridien :D
Has anyone booked with Ponheary recently? It looks like her price has increased to $60/day plus $10 for Banteay Srey.
Yaatri
Aug 28, 07, 9:54 pm
Yes, I am in. I boked my flight to BKK. I have also ben able to talk my brother into joining me from DEL. We will met at BKK and overland from there to Siem Ream via Poipet border.
One questioon I have is for those who have applied for the e-visa. When my brother tried to apply on line, he was asked about the estimated date of travel. To me, estimated date is just that. If your visa says 13th Sept, you should be OK if you cross the border the 14th. Does the VISA actually state your estimated date of arrival into Cambodia/border?
Both of us will have arrived in BKK by 6:55 a.m on Spet 13.. I am not sure if we would be able to cross the border in time to catch transport to arrive in sieam reap before dark. If the date of arrival is written in stone, I am worried that the guards at the border might harass us if we arrive a day later than the day we stated on the application.
I went on line to apply, but I did not see the "Estimated date of arrival" field. I just saw "Date of Arrival. What gives? Is the difference due to the fact that he and I might be looking at different sites since we are in different countries at the moment?
Yaatri
Aug 28, 07, 9:57 pm
...or they get a local to buy it for them, which would probably cost you all of a dollar or two in tips. (Technically illegal, of course.)
As a matter of principle I do not break laws whether in my country or another. Doing something that's illegal, even though of a minor nature, in a foreign country, where mafia of sorts exists in some sectors relevant to tourists, is the fastest way to get into trouble.
hiyo
Aug 28, 07, 10:15 pm
If your visa says 13th Sept, you should be OK if you cross the border the 14th. This is correct.
If the date of arrival is written in stone, I am worried that the guards at the border might harass us if we arrive a day later than the day we stated on the application. They won't. You are okay if you enter on or after the date on your visa.
I found entry to be fairly hassle-free with a regular visa on arrival at the Ving Xuong, Vietnam/Kaam Samnor, Cambodia border crossing on the Mekong.
I didn't bother getting a Cambodia SIM card and never needed it anyway.
chollie
Aug 29, 07, 6:33 am
Any recommendations? Need a single room, looking for something between hostel/dorms and high-end.
hiyo
Aug 29, 07, 8:45 am
Any recommendations? Need a single room, looking for something between hostel/dorms and high-end.
We stayed at California 2 Guesthouse (http://www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com/), on Sisowath Quay (riverfront).
The owner is an expat from San Diego. Rooms are clean and large and food in the restaurant is great (free breakfast). The location is unbeatable. We paid $25 a night for a riverview room.
If you want to PM me, I will give you Jim, the owner's, email address.
chollie
Aug 29, 07, 8:58 am
thanks, hiyo!
you have pm.
Yaatri
Aug 29, 07, 10:48 am
This is correct.
They won't. You are okay if you enter on or after the date on your visa.
I found entry to be fairly hassle-free with a regular visa on arrival at the Ving Xuong, Vietnam/Kaam Samnor, Cambodia border crossing on the Mekong.
I didn't bother getting a Cambodia SIM card and never needed it anyway.
Thanks for your reassuring response. I planned to get the visa in advance as I have read about the guards demand money, as much as 1500 Baht for a visa at the border in Poipet.
hiyo
Aug 29, 07, 11:54 am
Thanks for your reassuring response. I planned to get the visa in advance as I have read about the guards demand money, as much as 1500 Baht for a visa at the border in Poipet.
I can't speak to the Thai-Cambodian overland crossings, but there was absolutely no funny business Vietnam-Cambodia. No expedite fees, no mandatory money changing, very businesslike.
The Aranyaprathet, Thailand / Poipet, Cambodia crossing is infamous. Maybe an e-visa is worth the extra $5.
Yaatri
Aug 29, 07, 1:25 pm
I can't speak to the Thai-Cambodian overland crossings, but there was absolutely no funny business Vietnam-Cambodia. No expedite fees, no mandatory money changing, very businesslike.
The Aranyaprathet, Thailand / Poipet, Cambodia crossing is infamous. Maybe an e-visa is worth the extra $5.
That was the reason for going for e-visa. The only glitch being what if we arrive on the 14th but the visa says 13th?
hiyo
Aug 29, 07, 2:03 pm
That was the reason for going for e-visa. The only glitch being what if we arrive on the 14th but the visa says 13th?
I can't see any reason why that would be a problem. As long as you enter the Kingdom on or after the entry date you will be fine.
TrojanTraveler
Aug 29, 07, 3:51 pm
We stayed at the HdlP too. The "Central Market" is catty corner to the hotel. It has all kinds of souvenir stands and such. I don't specifically recall a pharmacy-like outfit. On another corner of the same intersection, a gas station cum mini-mart had a selection of all manner of things. I wasn't looking for bug spray because I already had some, but that's where I'd check first. IIRC, there was also a pharmacy within easy walking distance of the hotel, going up the opposite side of the main street towards the temples. That also looked like it would have bug spray. Nevertheless, I was suprised when one of the pharmacies in BKK didn't have the stuff with DEET, so all bets are off. I think you'll be okay, but I can't be certain. Sorry.
Appreciate it. I'll contact the hotel directly. If you anyone happens to know of any brands of spray that have DEET sold in Cambodia, that would be helpful...would rather be specific with the hotel if possible.
jaymar01
Aug 29, 07, 4:23 pm
Any recommendations? Need a single room, looking for something between hostel/dorms and high-end.
Check out the international hotel promotion currently going on at Orbitz. There is a long thread on the subject under the Hotel deals section in Miles and Points. ($75 off 3 nights/$200 off 5 nights).
In a place like Siem Reap, you should easily be able to get your daily accommodation costs at or well below $25/day. I just booked 10 days (2 four-star hotels) in Bali for about $200 total cost.
3Cforme
Aug 29, 07, 4:36 pm
Has anyone booked with Ponheary recently? It looks like her price has increased to $60/day plus $10 for Banteay Srey.
She was quoting $50 + $10 in February 2007. I got one of her agents as guide and an excellent driver.
jpdx
Aug 30, 07, 8:41 pm
Appreciate it. I'll contact the hotel directly. If you anyone happens to know of any brands of spray that have DEET sold in Cambodia, that would be helpful...would rather be specific with the hotel if possible.
We are staying at the de la Paix right now, and said mini market across the street sells OFF! spray bottles -- and the bottle lists DEET as an ingredient.
Yaatri
Aug 31, 07, 12:04 am
We are staying at the de la Paix right now, and said mini market across the street sells OFF! spray bottles -- and the bottle lists DEET as an ingredient.
Great. Thanks. I already got one, but in case I forget to take it, it's good to know that I can find one therfe.
Yaatri
Aug 31, 07, 12:08 am
I can't see any reason why that would be a problem. As long as you enter the Kingdom on or after the entry date you will be fine.
I agree with you there should not be a problem. But when visa issuing personnel demand "extra" just for doing their job, there is no telling.
What I was looking for was an experience where a person got an e-visa and arrived on a later date than the date indicated on the visa.
Upon reading Tales of Asia, I got the impression that Asians/South Asian Middle Eastern and Black tourists are more likely to be hasseled at the border. We will just have to see.
Yaatri
Aug 31, 07, 2:26 am
I mentioned my fear of snakes earlier. Has any one encountered a snake while visiting Angkor Wat? If yes, were you able to tel what kind?
Has anyone had snake for a meal? I saw a picture of fried snakes. It gave me an uncomfortable feeling. When I showed it to my children, they both said they would try it. My 10 yr old son thought if one can eat chicken why couldn't one eat snake? Good question. I was raised a vegetarian (no eggs meat, chicken or even seafood), although I am not one now. Getting used to eating chicken was a big step for me.
Yaatri
Sep 3, 07, 8:53 pm
It seems e-visa is processed somehwere in the east. My brother called me this morning to tell me that he applied for his visa early afternoon ( about 4:00 a.m. EDT) and received an e-mail with his visa within minutes. I applied for mine about 5:00 p.m and received my visa shortly after 9:00 p.m. EDT (8:00 a.m. EDT). Pretty cool way yo get the visa.
cj001f
Sep 3, 07, 9:21 pm
Thanks for your reassuring response. I planned to get the visa in advance as I have read about the guards demand money, as much as 1500 Baht for a visa at the border in Poipet.
:confused:
The only funny business I saw when crossing was that when asked the guards would only tell you the price in Baht. The price in baht was the equivalent of ~$15 more than the price in dollars.
atebby
Sep 5, 07, 2:34 pm
Where or how do you apply for an e-visa and can this be done for both Cambodia and Thailand. I am planing a trip the later part of December and would like to stream line it as much as possible.
Chapel Hill Guy
Sep 5, 07, 2:52 pm
Cambodia e-Visa (http://evisa.mfaic.gov.kh/)
MegatopLover
Sep 6, 07, 6:42 am
I obtained a traditional paper visa from the Cambodian Embassy in Washington a couple of months before my visit. Although the immigration officers were painfully diligent in checking papers at REP, I did notice that my line went quite a bit faster than the line for e-visa holders, and a whole lot faster than the process for visa-on-arrival applicants. It may be old-fashioned, but in countries where I need a visa, I'd rather get it all straightened out beforehand and stream through immigration rather than have to deal with snags (or outstretched palms) on arrival. YMMV.
lmeh
Sep 11, 07, 12:27 am
Cambodia e-Visa (http://evisa.mfaic.gov.kh/)
I am traveling to Combodia next month (China Airlines $302 deal) and to BKK from there and return through Combodia again. I have 3 different options in mind and need little advice.
1. Get paper visa from Washington. Cost $25x2entry=$50 plus cost of fedex $20 total $70,
2. Visa ot Airport $20X2=$40
3.E.visa $25x1=$25 + Visa at Airport on return from BKK $20x1=$20 total $45.
What is the advice which option should be less painfull. Another option can be getting E.Visa twice.Once now and secound time in BKK.
Michael
Sep 11, 07, 4:04 am
I'd just go for the visas on arrival at the airport. It's easy and doesn't take much time at all.
- Michael
lmeh
Sep 11, 07, 8:41 am
I'd just go for the visas on arrival at the airport. It's easy and doesn't take much time at all.
- Michael
Thanks
BiziBB
Jan 21, 08, 10:22 pm
Hi, Just a few questions before our arrival in Siem Reap in a couple of days:
1. Visa - we arrive around 8AM - have you seen how busy REP is around 8AM? (we arrive Fri Jan 25) Is it payable at the airport on c/card or only USD$?
- * different threads here show 'get an eVisa' or 'get it at the airport' advice; if it's likely to be busy we'll get it online.
2. ATMs at Siem Reap (REP) - available? Only give local currency? Perhaps offer USD$? (v. unlikely!)
3. For a 3-day stay, how is this as an itinerary? (Per a friend's recommendation)
Day 1: Arrive 8AM; Visit Silk Farm and/or Wood & stone works (via tuk tuk)
Day 2: Angkor Wat, w. Guide, starting with sunrise.
Day 3: Kulen Mountain day trip w. driver: Huge carved Buddha, waterfall, River of 1000 Linga
(Any recent recommendations of a guide is arrpeciated. I've printed out some recent discussions about guides and thanks for the messages from several FTers who've been in touch. ^)
Kakjapan
Jan 21, 08, 10:57 pm
We flew into REP from SIN on Jetstar, arrived at 7:00 AM, only our half full flight, and it took an hour to get out of the airport.
You need a photo for the visa, but for $5.00 they will make a digital copy of your passport photo. Then they take your photo when you use your visa at the final counter. Go figure.
There is an ATM machine right at the place where you line up first to submit your application and money. The ATMs all dispense US$ in Siem Reap as far as I know. The visa is paid for in cash, US$. Don't forget about the $25.00 fee you pay to exit Cambodia by air when you leave.
Phnom Kulen was the coolest place we went. Great swimming in the waterfall. Modern active temple interesting. Lingas very cool. Our guide's family all accompanied us and brought along a great picnic we all shared in one of the huts designed just for that. You can buy shorts and towels and shirts up there right next to the stairs to access the fall.
I'd go directly to Angkor Wat from the airport, enter through the back for a different perspective, and when you are through it all, turn around and marvel at what you just walked through. Angkor Wat faces west, so sunrise is not a great photo op imo, though it's a popular way to start the day. Then head out to the Silk Farm and have lunch there. Take a car, as it's quite far in a tuk tuk, not to mention hot and dusty.
There are so many other temples in the area that it would be a shame to travel to Siem Reap and only see Angkor Wat.
On Day 2, with Angkor Wat covered on Day 1, see the Angkor Thom compex in the morning, and definitely see Ta Prohm as well, probably in the afternoon.
On Day 3, on the way to Phnom Kulen, stop and see Banteay Srei...one of my favorite temples. There is plenty of time in the day to do that and it is very near to the turnoff to the access road to Phnom Kulen.
We used Ponheary Ly for 5 days, and her brother Dara for 1 day. Both were very, very good and I can recommend them without reservations ponheary at yahoo dot com. They were both informative, personable, and easily adapted to our every whim. Great driver, too. We had a very nice school visit as well...you might also be able to fit that in on the Phnom Kulen day if you like as there is a school that is supported by the PLF (www.theplf.org) very near to Banteay Srei.
cathaana
Jan 23, 08, 9:31 am
Hi, Just a few questions before our arrival in Siem Reap in a couple of days:
1. Visa - we arrive around 8AM - have you seen how busy REP is around 8AM? (we arrive Fri Jan 25) Is it payable at the airport on c/card or only USD$?
- * different threads here show 'get an eVisa' or 'get it at the airport' advice; if it's likely to be busy we'll get it online.
2. ATMs at Siem Reap (REP) - available? Only give local currency? Perhaps offer USD$? (v. unlikely!)
3. For a 3-day stay, how is this as an itinerary? (Per a friend's recommendation)
Day 1: Arrive 8AM; Visit Silk Farm and/or Wood & stone works (via tuk tuk)
Day 2: Angkor Wat, w. Guide, starting with sunrise.
Day 3: Kulen Mountain day trip w. driver: Huge carved Buddha, waterfall, River of 1000 Linga
(Any recent recommendations of a guide is arrpeciated. I've printed out some recent discussions about guides and thanks for the messages from several FTers who've been in touch. ^)
2. Not sure about the airport but there were quite a few ATMs in town, all dispensing Riel and US$.
3. I would do Kbal Spean (River of 1000 Linga), Bantey Srei and Beng Mealea (my favourite temple) on the third day.
BiziBB
Jan 25, 08, 8:15 am
Can report there are ANZ ATMS around a lot of Siem Reap (but charge $2 extra). The REP one does not have this extra charge.
Bring a passport photo for your visa or if not just pay an exta $2USD.
Having a great time - thanks to all, especially those who added comments re. guides and drivers. ^
ORD-TGU
Oct 14, 08, 10:48 am
Booking through the hotel at La Residence we were asked $30 pd each for driver and guide (though we only took a driver) plus an extra $6 for Banteay Srei.
I offer this as part of your informal survey - I knew this was over the odds but it was worth it for me not to have to find my own driver and haggle about price.
BTW I'm with Michael on this one - tourists complain when prices rise in third world countries, but when the vaue of money is eroded locals are not being "greedy" in raising prices. Besides, the dollar has depreciated drastically - maybe they are keeping their prices constant in Euros. ;)
And we, the tourists, are very much part of the reason that the value of money is eroded. The more we pour in the more "sophisticated" (read expensive) the place becomes and the price of land, food etc. all rises for the locals. I find it laughable that people in designer loafers, sunglasses and daypacks think that a multi-lingual, well-informed Cambodian guide's time is worth less than $25 per day. Or in my case, $30 for a multilingual, well-informed chauffeur together with use of a new, airconditioned car.
well said!! I can't stand penny pinchers in a third world country negotiating a $1-$2 from some poor mans living, while then they go off to the nice hotel and pay $5 for a drink.
it is like that 13 year old volunteer going to a poor nation and help build a well; that kid spent around $1,000 on that trip, might as well have stayed at home and that $1,000 would have built a much better well.
Michael
Oct 16, 08, 5:22 am
By the way, those now heading to REP and elsewhere in Cambodia may wish to note that inflation has been brutal this year. Year-on-year inflation is officially calculated around 22%, though there is much discussion that this number has been kept low for political reasons (the government stopped publishing inflation figures for a few months prior to the national elections in July, and then pulled the new CPI formula and reverted to the older one which gave a lower rate). Some knowledgeable observers are saying that the 12-month inflation rate is probably more in the range of 33%.
In other words, prices are going up, and they're not what they used to be. But Cambodia is still a great deal and a wonderful place to visit.
Michael
TJQuill
Oct 16, 08, 5:55 pm
FWIW - I'm just back from Siem Reap (end of September 2008), and my 2 cents on some of the things discussed above:
On Malaria: the locals aren't taking malaria meds as a preventive measure, so why would you? I travel in SE Asia for about 6 months out of each year, and have consulted with embassy and military doctors in a half dozen countries over there. Do what you like, but the consensus has been that unless you are camping or living in open air bungalows, you are wasting your money and subjecting your body to unnecessary drugs. Use DEET when you are in areas with lots of mossies (which also prevents Dengue and other assorted nasty things), but otherwise don't worry about it.
Rainy season: I was there at the height of the rainy season and we didn't see a drop in 2.5 days in Siem Reap. During my three weeks in PNH, there were some heavy rains, but they typically did not last for more than an hour. The rains will make travel more difficult if they hit at the wrong time, but most of the time it appears that the worst case is you would sit one out for a couple of hours and then resume touring. I'll trade that risk to avoid the huge crowds that are apparently there during the high season.
Guide: Don't skimp, get a guide, and read http://www.theangkorguide.com/ before you go to get the most out of it.
Hotel: I stayed at the Prince d'Angkor for around $55 / night (including breakfast). It was nothing special and the service was lacking compared to what I am used to in SE Asia, but it was clean, the AC worked, the pool was fairly nice, and I didn't get sick...
TJ
Chapel Hill Guy
Oct 17, 08, 10:27 am
You an MD? From the WHO site:
Malaria in South-East Asia Region: Myth and Reality
Malaria is an enormous health and developmental problem in the SEA Region as a staggering 687 million people are at high risk for malaria, with an estimated 90-160 million infections and more than 120,000 deaths occurring each year.
On Malaria: the locals aren't taking malaria meds as a preventive measure, so why would you?
TJQuill
Oct 17, 08, 5:14 pm
You an MD? From the WHO site:
Just sharing my experience. I'm not an MD. I'm a guy who lives in SE Asia half of each year and knows many hundreds of Westerners who live there year round, but I have yet to meet one or even hear of one who has been infected with Malaria (although I know plenty who have picked up Dengue). And I don't know a single middle or higher class local who has been infected with Malaria.
What I have been told, and in my admittedly anecdotal experience, is that those statistics are almost without exception comprised of poor people who live in and around wetlands, rice paddies, lakes, flood zones and other sources of standing water, in open/non-airconditioned residences. Not by the Western tourists/businessmen who are blowing into the region for a week or two, traveling by taxi, and living in hotels.
This being flyertalk, the thread will now be filled with anecdotes and weblinks to individuals who got Malaria and we will devolve from there... ;)
Don't get me wrong, if I was trekking and living with the locals in rural areas I would absolutely take the meds, but the doctors who I know who live and work in the region would never take it for a trip to Siem Reap.
Travel safely, TJ
Chapel Hill Guy
Oct 17, 08, 8:13 pm
Fair enough. And I will do this:
Do what you like
And I do know someone traveling casually who got malaria, but I won't belabor the issue. No devolution on my part. :)
This being flyertalk, the thread will now be filled with anecdotes and weblinks to individuals who got Malaria and we will devolve from there... ;)
You as well.
Travel safely, TJ
Michael
Oct 19, 08, 11:56 pm
And I do know someone traveling casually who got malaria, but I won't belabor the issue. No devolution on my part.
In Siem Reap? (Note that REP is the topic of the thread, not anywhere else.)
FWIW, I've lived in Cambodia for nearly seven years now, and I have yet to meet anyone who has gotten malaria in REP or PNH. I've taken malaria prophylaxis in the past when doing fieldwork in rural areas (including overnight stays in remote areas, etc.), but do not do so when visiting REP.
But I always try to take care about mosquitos: dengue is NOT fun.
- Michael
bostonbali
Dec 7, 08, 7:05 pm
Recently returned from a honeymoon in Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangkok.
Per recommendations here and on Lonely Planet Thorntree, we used Kim San as our guide. His contact info is sourtkimsan at yahoo.com, and his website is http://www.angkor-guides.com/.
Kim San has ample experience as guide (he worked as a guide for 13 years before opening up his own company), and has even worked with the Amazing Race crew when they were in Siem Reap (he gave them their clue).
His price was very, very fair, and his English language skills were good. Overall, he was a great guide!
planet
Dec 12, 08, 3:22 am
Pick maybe two to three temples you most want to see. A lot of people plan their day so they go to the temple complex for sunrise, return to the hotel to rest during the heat of the day and then return to the temples in the afternoon. Merchants generally accept dollars, and yes, it's easy to find an ATM in town.
The Blue Pumpkin (same folks own the Angkor Cafe across from Angkor Wat) has good food as does Red Piano and the FCC.
If you're there on a Saturday night Dr. Beat Richner puts on an interesting "concert" and information program about pediatric medical needs in Cambodia. You can also walk around town at night as many shops are open late.
Please hire a tour guide with you.
Bayon (216 giant heads carved into stone), Ta Phrom (left in a fairly natural state with giant tree roots draping over the walls) and Angkor Wat will likely not leave you disappointed if you pick those three to see.
letthinktour
Dec 16, 08, 6:26 am
I was there last summer for a few days & had a great time, though I did manage to get heat exhaustion one day. People aren't kidding when they advise drinking a LOT!
Yes, you can easily survive for 24 hours on $1 bills and I'd also advise bringing a few $5s for the pricier things.
Leaving your bags at the hotel would probably be best, but you will definitely want to get an early start to maximize your time and still allow enough time to get back to the hotel & then to the airport. Nothing is very far apart, the roads are crappy, so it takes a while to go a short distance.
As others stated, The Blue Pumpkin and the FCC are both good places to eat.
Have a great trip!
The Blue Pumpkin and the FCC are both good places to eat and they are very famous because my friends told me about them when they visited Cambodia.
planet
Dec 20, 08, 6:11 am
My favorite country is Cambodia. I will go there again some day.
Known for warm, beguiling smiles, smiles that have weathered great hardship, Khmer people are very friendly, approachable, and helpful.
planet
Dec 24, 08, 5:12 am
My favorite country is Cambodia. I will go there again some day.
Known for warm, beguiling smiles, smiles that have weathered great hardship, Khmer people are very friendly, approachable, and helpful.
Marry Christmas & Happy New Year!
harihara
Jan 13, 09, 9:51 pm
Hi,
I am just embarking on planning our 10 year anniversary trip to Cambodia so I need lots of help.
1. I am looking for recommended itineraries for a 1 week trip. I have heard amazing things reading these chats about Angkor Wat, Phnom Penh and Sihanouk Ville. Also looking for some time at a beautiful beach with other things to do.
2. Is February a good time to go?
Let's start with that!
Thanks for the help in advance. We are really looking forward to it.
Michael
Jan 14, 09, 4:43 am
1. I think 1 week is a little tight for all three destinations (Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, the coast). It's doable, but you'll be on the move pretty constantly. I would instead choose two of the three, and have a more relaxing (and enjoyable) time at each place.
2. February is fine. It's starting to get warm (especially by the end of the month), but it's still a fine time to visit.
harihara
Jan 14, 09, 5:30 am
Thank you for your assistance! I try to plan my trip again. I will probably have 10 days or 2 weeks for our trip in Cambodia. Is it enough for 10 days with 3 places in Cambodia?
D1andonlyDman
Jan 16, 09, 5:06 pm
Thank you for your assistance! I try to plan my trip again. I will probably have 10 days or 2 weeks for our trip in Cambodia. Is it enough for 10 days with 3 places in Cambodia?
Sure. Figure on a full day in transit between each place, and that will leave you at least 2-3 full days to see each venue - which should be fine. IMHO, 2 complete days is sufficient for Siem Reap/Angkor, if you book a guide and driver for at least one of those days to see the temples.
harihara
Jan 17, 09, 6:21 am
That sounds good! Thanks.
orangutan
Jan 20, 09, 10:20 am
I was in Angkor last Oct - still warm and too humid. Feb's a good time to visit. Stayed @ Le Meridien. Hired a local driver. Woke up early for the sunrise in Angkor. A must see event.
I'm planning a trip again sometime end of the year to cover the other temples.
You'll have a great time in Cambodia.
bangkokiscool
Jan 21, 09, 4:02 pm
Sihanoukville (Snookyville) is a gem -- still very much undiscovered and some pretty damn fine beaches. Food is not as varied or high quality as Thailand's beaches, but at least you get to eat without staring at an overweight German in a speedo (with apologies to my German friends). We flew into Phnom Penh, stayed at the Raffles for around $120 per night, and then took a private taxi to Sihanoukville for around $60. The clerk at the front desk arranged it for us. This was in 2007.
About a month ago we were in Siem Reap. In the space of 15 months since my last visit, Siem Reap now has an escalator in an indoor shopping mall, at least two more traffic lights, and at least 2 KFC's opening soon (1 at the new museum, and another across the street from hotel de la paix). Visit now before the town is unrecognizable. I look back at the photos I took at Angkor Wat in 2000 and I am amazed at the differences between those photos and current photos.
We went to Koh Ker, about 2 hours drive away. Highly recommended!!!
harihara
Jan 28, 09, 3:50 am
Thank you so much for your help.
GolfTravelr
Feb 19, 09, 1:37 pm
Any recommendations? Need a single room, looking for something between hostel/dorms and high-end.
I can not recommend highly enough Journey's Within. Very comfortable rooms, outstanding meals and sublime service from drivers to guides. On top of this they are extremely active in the community and do a great deal to assist locals with micro loans, clean water and sustainable business.