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Jun 14, 06, 5:11 am
This is going to be a very l--o--n--g trip report including many destinations, airlines, hotels. I am going to leave out a lot of the details because, effectively, it would be a novel. This is not yet complete - I have a few more legs and destinations to include and will do that later.
APRIL 2006
SFO-HKG-SIN-BKK, SQ 1/64
First
Great flight; typical indulgent SQ service, amenities and best of all, 6.5 hours of nonstop sleep. I love SQ and a great way to start my trip. Rating: A+
Bangkok
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit
This is a luxury collection hotel that I booked on Priceline; I originally reserved for one night only as I was planning to depart to another destination the next day. Plans changed, so I made a second booking at the Shangri-La. The Sheraton is a fine hotel - great service, nice if smallish pool, good location. I would not pay a full rate here, but at my rate - $59 plus taxes - a fantastic bargain! Rating: B+
Shangri-La Krungthep Wing
So what is all the hype about? The Shangri-La common areas are decadent and modern, while the rooms - at least mine - was very in need of renovation. I felt like I was in a Golden Girls episode. Still, fine place to stay for 3 nights before my next destination. Rating: B
Destination
Bangkok is a nice city - you can find anything there, and I mean ANYTHING. The Shangri-La is poorly located for walking in the city, but then Bangkok is not much of a pedestrian city anyway. Rating: B
Bangkok Airways
BKK-Siem Reap, ATR 72
Arriving 32 minutes before my flight I was sure to be left off. Not so with Bangkok Airways - they checked me in, tagged my bag, and off I went to the departure lounge. Boarding started soon after for the 100% full flight to REP. The ATR holds (I think) about 60 people, based on my count. PG's are in major need of overhaul; the cabins are VERY tired. Still, for a 50 minute flight, manageable. Meal service was a box of snack looking items which I politely declined the contents of. Rating: C-
Hotel De La Paix, Siem Reap
This is my first trip to Siem Reap; I had heard so many great things about it. My first day consisted of city exploration, saving the remaining for temple hopping. I was not disappointed; Siem Reap is a dusty, exotic SE Asian city that is coming into its own. My first impression was of the people, who are so friendly and hospitable that one does not want to leave. Hotel de la Paix is phenomenal; the staff, the rooms, the lounge, everything. I would not hesitate to go back again in a minute, to Siem Reap and to this hotel. The temples are absolutely awe-inspiring; I am a photographer so they offered many varied conditions and outstanding photos. All in all, Cambodia is a diamond in the rough, and worthy of everyone's visit. Rating: A+
Vietnam Airlines
REP-SGN, Airbus A320
I had booked business class by mistake on this flight at the travel agency in Siem Reap; the language thing caused the mistake, I think. As she explained in broken English after the ticket was issued, the difference in cost is only $40 and so I let it be. The airport in Siem Reap is quaint and surprisingly modern. I was very sad to leave it behind, but know I will return. There isn't much to say about the flight; boarded a long in the tooth A320; took my seat, we took off, we landed and in between they tried to serve me something to eat which I declined. I was the only one in business and so had my own bus to the terminal, kind of awkward. Rating: hmm, B I guess.
New World Hotel
I had heard so many good things about the New World Hotel that I decided I had to give it a try. I was severely disappointed by the accomodations. This is supposed to be a 5* hotel, with 5* amenities. Instead, at least my room, was a 3* Holiday Inn if that, and left me seriously underwhelmed. Rating: C-
Ho Chi Minh City
Well, I came here to see the madness everyone talks about and they were right; it is crazy. Completely insane, chaos. There is a kind of poetic fluidity to it all when watched from afar, but when you are trying to cross the street...well, best to advise major caution. I also visited the Mekong Delta, which is stunning. After two days, I had enough of the madness, and left. Rating: C because of the traffic
Singapore Airlines
SGN-SIN-DPS (Bali)
Business Class
My next destination was Bali, and I could not wait to get there so I left SGN two days early. I booked last minute on the SQ's website and found that a C-class full fare was available all the way to Bali for 400USD. Not bad, considering Y was 300. I did the deed and went to the airport the next morning. SGN airport is a little bit of a zoo - they are building a new terminal for int'l flights, but until then, I advise lots of extra time. The computers were down, then up, then down again. Took 45 minutes to check in and I was the only one in C-class line. Flights were nice - Raffles on the SGN-SIN, regional business on the SIN-DPS leg. Rating: A.
Sheraton Nusa Dua
Wow. Booked 5 nights here using Starwood points; great value, and what a stunning hotel. It did not disappoint in anyway, even though it was undergoing renovations and was kind of loud at times. The room was a newly renovated one, and was huge with a balcony and nice bathroom. I would not hestitate to stay here again, ever. My first impressions of Bali were more than I had hoped for; I avoided the tourist areas and stuck to the off-the-beaten-path ones. Rating: A+.
Four Seasons Sayan (Ubud)
After 7 nights in Sheraton Nusa Dua (2 paid, 5 free), I went to Four Seasons Sayan. WOW. Tucked away along the Ayung River with 45 villas and 15 suites, the FS Sayan leaves little to the imagination. The 2 story villas are very private with plunge pools and a nice outdoor sitting area; indoor and outdoor showers; and fabulous evening sounds of the rushing waters of the Ayung River. This is truly paradise, Eden on earth. This is simply the most STUNNING resort property I have ever seen. Rating: A+++++.
Bali Overall
I think Bali is amazing. The people possess gentle souls and big, honest smiles that won me over. Balinese are known for many pleasant things - carving, arts, dance, gentleness, kindness - and as long as you stay away from the main tourist area of Kuta, I think you will find it. The traffic is insane, but the island really is one of the most precious places on Earth. I fell so deeply for it that I want to move there; that's another story. Rating: off the charts
Also spent some time in Surabaya and Denpasar, utilizing Adam Air and Garuda. Suffice to say that Garuda beats Adam Air on every count and is in fact quite a good carrier. Did not stay in hotels in either city so cannot give a report.
MAY 2006
Singapore Airlines
CGK/Jakarta-SIN-PVG/Shanghai
Business and First
When checking in at the CGK airport, I got a pleasant surprise; SIN-PVG was oversold in business, and so I was bumped to first. The flight CGK-SIN was an A340, and I wanted to try this business class to compare to the 777 I had on SGN-SIN. This business class is superior in comfort and spaciousness; the 777 felt a little cramped. The 777-300 from SIN-PVG had only 2 people in F in the end; both op-ups. That was a pleasant flight, with full caviar and dom service. Early arrival in stormy PVG meant waiting for a gate, then an extra long taxi into town (pouring rain). Rating: A
Westin Shanghai
Despite being severely overpriced, the Westin Shanghai is nice. The pool facilities - something important to me on these trips as a swimmer - were top notch. Location is nice in the Bund neighborhood, closeby to shopping and the river. The rooms are also very nice, typical city size; bit small but good amenities and nice bathroom. Rating: B-.
Shanghai
Explosive growth and construction cranes mark the face of this rapidly evolving city. My 5 days were cursed with heavy rain and clouds, but I still managed to get out to see the nice city, Chinese acrobats (Shanghai Circus World) and a few foot massages. All in all, Shanghai is a world city as it claims; I felt at home there, and despite not speaking any Chinese, had little difficulty finding my way around. Rating: B
PVG-BKK-SIN
Thai Airways PVG-BKK
Airbus A330
Business
I slept most of this flight; I think there was a meal, and not sure about the movies/entertainment but from previous C-class experience on the A330 do not remember it be overwhelming. Early arrival in BKK meant no gate waiting for us; final arrival at the gate was on time.
Finnair BKK-SIN
MD-11
Business
I really wanted to try Finnair's new business class; the one-way fare in business was only $99, so I indulged. I had to exit customs and immigration and go back upstairs to check in, which was relatively painless. I got the seat I wanted, a window in the first row on the right (LOADS of extra room there), and went to the lovely Qantas lounge for a drink and some sammie's before boarding. Upon boarding, I was pleasant surprised; the new business class is really nice! I had forgotten how LARGE the windows on the MD-11 were; much bigger than other aircraft, or my imagination? The flight was pretty empty in business - only 9 - and the service was also very slow. I reclined the seat and went right to sleep and skipped the meal, but the menu left something to be desired for me. Still, a comfortable flight in a great business class and I would not hesitate to fly them on this route again, especially for that price! Rating: B
Raffles The Plaza
Another Priceline room - $100/night for 2 nights, not a bad deal for this hotel. I arrived sort of late on the first night so had a quick dinner in Suntec food court and went to sleep. Next day was gorgeous - walked around Orchard Road, got a foot massage, watched Da Vinci Code on its second night - a pleasant Singapore day. Third day, got another foot massage and then went to the airport for my flight.
Singapore Airlines
SIN-FRA
First Class
When I initially booked in business class on this flight, I found that after book and going to select my seats there were none available. I found that odd, so called up SQ in the states to get the seat assignment. Indeed, the friendly agent said that on this particular flight Raffles was fully booked, but I could wait for a seat at the airport. I asked how much to upgrade to First and if there were seats; the right price and my preferred seat - 2A - and I was on my way. This was the day flight so full service of caviar, full meals, the works. It is a long flight because of being all daytime and somewhere just north of Iran, we hit turbulence like I've never experienced. Cabin crew had to quickly stow their carts and be seated for close to 90 minutes. We were 20 minutes late getting in Frankfurt as a result of trying to route around the turbulence and the captain, flight stewards and purser were very apologetic. I did not have a connection to make so did not really care. Rating: B- b/c of turbulence.
Sheraton FRA Airport
Stayed here one night - not much to say. Went in, checked in, showered, went to sleep. Woke next morning, had breakfast, back to airport.
Croatia Airlines
FRA-DBV/Dubrovnik
Business
Economy class was sold out in cheap fare classes on this early morning flight so I opted for a $30 upgrade to business. I figured the extra RDM would be worth the $30. What a terrible little airline; I am forgiving, but from boarding to deplaning, not one of the flight crew said anything to anyone that I saw. They were stoic and silent, using pantomime and gesturing to get their work done. The "meal" was inedible steamed dumplings - no filling - with bread crumbs on top. Seats are typical EU business - 3x3, with middle blocked. Best part was arriving in DBV and getting off. Rating: D
Stayed in an apartment in Dubrovnik for one week and was pleasantly surprised by some things, but overall disappointed. I was expecting more than just hordes and busses FULL UP of German and British tourists wearing socks with their sandals. Well, at least I can say I've seen Croatia; not sure I'd go back, and definitely not to Dubrovnik. Rating: C
JUNE 2006
Croatia Airlines
DBV-LGW
Y Class
I flew to BCN the long way - DBV-LGW-BCN, with the DBV-LGW on Croatia Airlines and BA on the second leg. This flight was better - I was in the last row of the airplane, 28C, and blessedly, mine was the only empty row on the whole plane. I layed down and went to sleep for about 90 minutes of the 2 hr flight. When I woke we were beginning our descent into LGW, and arrived on time. The crew on this flight were slightly better; I saw they were at least talking to the passengers. Maybe they went to a different school of etiquette. Rating: indifference, but C
British Airways
LGW-BCN
Y class
I have always like BA's intra-European Y class. The seats are nice, the cupholder on the armrest is a useful, and I find the cabin very inviting in general. This flight - 737-500 - was packed to the gills with holiday makers and a LARGE group of 12 year olds seemingly going on some sort of retreat but I had been seated in the exit row, thanks BA! Flight departed and arrived on-time, not much else in way of service but the cabin crew were very polite and friendly, and I was surprised at how efficient they were with the sandwich/2x drink run/duty free cart services on a 90 minute flight. Rating: B+
Barcelona
Hotel B
Gran Via
NICE hotel at the right price, just slightly outside the center of Barcelona next to the old bullring (now being converted to a shopping center) in Plaza de la Espanya. It is close to the metro and therefore convenient. I found the whole hotel charming; services are limited but you are near so many good restaurants and anyway, who eats room service in a city that doesn't eat dinner until midnight? I love Barcelona for its modern vs. historic charm, and had a great 5 days. Rating on both BCN and the hotel: A
TAP Air Portugal
BCN-LIS-OPO/Porto
Y class
An early morning flight, but the B-Hotel is only 15 minutes from the airport which is ideal. Slept from BCN-LIS, not sure what took place for breakfast or what not; arrived a bit late in LIS. Had a short connection, but fortunately - this NEVER happens when you need it! - we parked at a jetbridge, and the connecting flight left from the bussed gate just downstairs. Otherwise, would have never made it. I was not particularly worried as TP run about 10 flights a day LIS-OPO. Made the connection and 38 minutes later were in Porto. TAP are not exactly luxurious; for short flights, I have no hesitation. For longer flights - North America, Africa - not sure I'd choose them. You see, the female flight attendants wear these little gloves during boarding and I always pictured them taking the gloves off and slapping a passenger who asked a stupid question. Anyway, rating: B.
Sheraton Porto
Fabulous hotel in a nice little city - great spa, great breakfast (Veuve, caviar!!!). Rating: A
Porto
The historic area is a World Heritage Site, and is much more charming (I think) than in Lisbon. Also went to Braga and Guimaraes to see some holy places in Portugal. Porto is a pleasant if industrial city; it has a bad reputation as a place where you can do nothing, which I find unfair. I found plenty of diversions and never once felt like it was a bore. That said, I am not sure I would return to Porto soon; there is not much left for me to see. Rating: B+
TAP Air Portugal
OPO-LIS
Y class
Quick hop on TP to LIS. Oddly enough, got to boarding gate as the signs all said "Boarding." Aircraft was there, but no gate agents and door was shut. Hmm. Waited 25 minutes, gate agent shows up, takes her purse from a locker below the desk, walks away. 5 minutes later - boards now showing "Departed," must be automatic - gate agent comes back, opens door, everyone boards. No boarding announcements were ever made. Left the gate only 10 minutes late (very light flight, not full), captain apologizes in Portuguese for the delay. Bags in LIS took 50 minutes to arrive. Odd. Rating: D for the ground services
Marriott Lisbon
OK, so Tripadvisor says this is a good hotel in an OK location, convenient to the subway to central Lisbon. I disagree on both points. It is an average hotel in an average location, and is not all that convenient to the subway. Lisbon weather was not cooperating - rain and overcast - and decided that after two days, had enough and flew to Madrid. Not the world's biggest fan of Lisbon at this point, maybe judged it too soon. Rating for both: D+
Iberia
LIS-MAD
Business Class
Booked this last minute on Iberia website and only business was available; also checked TP, and same. So, off on Iberia I went. Check in was smooth, agents friendly (I speak Spanish, hey it helps!). Flight was on a long in the tooth MD-87, but on the short flight the friendly crew did manage a meal and 3 beverage runs in business class. On time arrival in Madrid, and quick baggage delivery. Rating: B+
Hotel Quo Puerta del Sol
Nice little hotel in the middle of the city. Rooms are tiny, loud and bright but modern, and clean. I would look around for a bigger room but otherwise would stay here again. Rating: B+
Madrid
Love it - modern, clean, lots of history, close to great World Heritage Sites like Escorial and Toledo. Madrid has so much to offer, and is severely underrated. Rating: A+
Iberia
Madrid-Granada
Business Class
Part of a MAD-GRX-MAD-JNB ticket on Iberia, otherwise would not choose business on such a short flight. Actually, the service on this flight was fabulous. I speak Spanish and this definitely helps with cabin crews and Iberia ground staff; a little trouble with my ticket on check in, not sure why, but the friendly ticket agent helped sort it out with the check in clerk. Flight was short - 45 minutes - on another MD-88. I was the only one in business, and was showered with attention and beverages. Breakfast was served - HOT! - and surprisingly, in two courses. They had some leftover fruit from the captain's meal and asked if I might not prefer to have that; I said, may I have both? So they served me the fruit first and the hot portion later. Rating: A
Hotel Hesperia Granada
Average, small rooms with fake wood flooring. Loud, and despite claiming on their website when I booked it that they are 30 metres from the Alhambra entrance with views from some rooms, it is not true. Still, good value for a hotel in the center of the city and convenient enough to Alhambra. Rating: C+
Granada
Love it - Alhambra is the main attraction, but there is actually a lot to see and do here, and the city is very "Spanish." Gypsies on the outskirts of Sacramonte who live in pseudo-caves and perform Flamenco are a sight to see; watch your belongings here, they are sly :) Rating: A
That's it for now - tonight, headed Granada-MAD-JNB, then have a month in Africa - Capetown, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe then Dubai, finally in Cairo and Luxor, then home. Stay tuned for the rest of the trip report.
APRIL 2006
SFO-HKG-SIN-BKK, SQ 1/64
First
Great flight; typical indulgent SQ service, amenities and best of all, 6.5 hours of nonstop sleep. I love SQ and a great way to start my trip. Rating: A+
Bangkok
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit
This is a luxury collection hotel that I booked on Priceline; I originally reserved for one night only as I was planning to depart to another destination the next day. Plans changed, so I made a second booking at the Shangri-La. The Sheraton is a fine hotel - great service, nice if smallish pool, good location. I would not pay a full rate here, but at my rate - $59 plus taxes - a fantastic bargain! Rating: B+
Shangri-La Krungthep Wing
So what is all the hype about? The Shangri-La common areas are decadent and modern, while the rooms - at least mine - was very in need of renovation. I felt like I was in a Golden Girls episode. Still, fine place to stay for 3 nights before my next destination. Rating: B
Destination
Bangkok is a nice city - you can find anything there, and I mean ANYTHING. The Shangri-La is poorly located for walking in the city, but then Bangkok is not much of a pedestrian city anyway. Rating: B
Bangkok Airways
BKK-Siem Reap, ATR 72
Arriving 32 minutes before my flight I was sure to be left off. Not so with Bangkok Airways - they checked me in, tagged my bag, and off I went to the departure lounge. Boarding started soon after for the 100% full flight to REP. The ATR holds (I think) about 60 people, based on my count. PG's are in major need of overhaul; the cabins are VERY tired. Still, for a 50 minute flight, manageable. Meal service was a box of snack looking items which I politely declined the contents of. Rating: C-
Hotel De La Paix, Siem Reap
This is my first trip to Siem Reap; I had heard so many great things about it. My first day consisted of city exploration, saving the remaining for temple hopping. I was not disappointed; Siem Reap is a dusty, exotic SE Asian city that is coming into its own. My first impression was of the people, who are so friendly and hospitable that one does not want to leave. Hotel de la Paix is phenomenal; the staff, the rooms, the lounge, everything. I would not hesitate to go back again in a minute, to Siem Reap and to this hotel. The temples are absolutely awe-inspiring; I am a photographer so they offered many varied conditions and outstanding photos. All in all, Cambodia is a diamond in the rough, and worthy of everyone's visit. Rating: A+
Vietnam Airlines
REP-SGN, Airbus A320
I had booked business class by mistake on this flight at the travel agency in Siem Reap; the language thing caused the mistake, I think. As she explained in broken English after the ticket was issued, the difference in cost is only $40 and so I let it be. The airport in Siem Reap is quaint and surprisingly modern. I was very sad to leave it behind, but know I will return. There isn't much to say about the flight; boarded a long in the tooth A320; took my seat, we took off, we landed and in between they tried to serve me something to eat which I declined. I was the only one in business and so had my own bus to the terminal, kind of awkward. Rating: hmm, B I guess.
New World Hotel
I had heard so many good things about the New World Hotel that I decided I had to give it a try. I was severely disappointed by the accomodations. This is supposed to be a 5* hotel, with 5* amenities. Instead, at least my room, was a 3* Holiday Inn if that, and left me seriously underwhelmed. Rating: C-
Ho Chi Minh City
Well, I came here to see the madness everyone talks about and they were right; it is crazy. Completely insane, chaos. There is a kind of poetic fluidity to it all when watched from afar, but when you are trying to cross the street...well, best to advise major caution. I also visited the Mekong Delta, which is stunning. After two days, I had enough of the madness, and left. Rating: C because of the traffic
Singapore Airlines
SGN-SIN-DPS (Bali)
Business Class
My next destination was Bali, and I could not wait to get there so I left SGN two days early. I booked last minute on the SQ's website and found that a C-class full fare was available all the way to Bali for 400USD. Not bad, considering Y was 300. I did the deed and went to the airport the next morning. SGN airport is a little bit of a zoo - they are building a new terminal for int'l flights, but until then, I advise lots of extra time. The computers were down, then up, then down again. Took 45 minutes to check in and I was the only one in C-class line. Flights were nice - Raffles on the SGN-SIN, regional business on the SIN-DPS leg. Rating: A.
Sheraton Nusa Dua
Wow. Booked 5 nights here using Starwood points; great value, and what a stunning hotel. It did not disappoint in anyway, even though it was undergoing renovations and was kind of loud at times. The room was a newly renovated one, and was huge with a balcony and nice bathroom. I would not hestitate to stay here again, ever. My first impressions of Bali were more than I had hoped for; I avoided the tourist areas and stuck to the off-the-beaten-path ones. Rating: A+.
Four Seasons Sayan (Ubud)
After 7 nights in Sheraton Nusa Dua (2 paid, 5 free), I went to Four Seasons Sayan. WOW. Tucked away along the Ayung River with 45 villas and 15 suites, the FS Sayan leaves little to the imagination. The 2 story villas are very private with plunge pools and a nice outdoor sitting area; indoor and outdoor showers; and fabulous evening sounds of the rushing waters of the Ayung River. This is truly paradise, Eden on earth. This is simply the most STUNNING resort property I have ever seen. Rating: A+++++.
Bali Overall
I think Bali is amazing. The people possess gentle souls and big, honest smiles that won me over. Balinese are known for many pleasant things - carving, arts, dance, gentleness, kindness - and as long as you stay away from the main tourist area of Kuta, I think you will find it. The traffic is insane, but the island really is one of the most precious places on Earth. I fell so deeply for it that I want to move there; that's another story. Rating: off the charts
Also spent some time in Surabaya and Denpasar, utilizing Adam Air and Garuda. Suffice to say that Garuda beats Adam Air on every count and is in fact quite a good carrier. Did not stay in hotels in either city so cannot give a report.
MAY 2006
Singapore Airlines
CGK/Jakarta-SIN-PVG/Shanghai
Business and First
When checking in at the CGK airport, I got a pleasant surprise; SIN-PVG was oversold in business, and so I was bumped to first. The flight CGK-SIN was an A340, and I wanted to try this business class to compare to the 777 I had on SGN-SIN. This business class is superior in comfort and spaciousness; the 777 felt a little cramped. The 777-300 from SIN-PVG had only 2 people in F in the end; both op-ups. That was a pleasant flight, with full caviar and dom service. Early arrival in stormy PVG meant waiting for a gate, then an extra long taxi into town (pouring rain). Rating: A
Westin Shanghai
Despite being severely overpriced, the Westin Shanghai is nice. The pool facilities - something important to me on these trips as a swimmer - were top notch. Location is nice in the Bund neighborhood, closeby to shopping and the river. The rooms are also very nice, typical city size; bit small but good amenities and nice bathroom. Rating: B-.
Shanghai
Explosive growth and construction cranes mark the face of this rapidly evolving city. My 5 days were cursed with heavy rain and clouds, but I still managed to get out to see the nice city, Chinese acrobats (Shanghai Circus World) and a few foot massages. All in all, Shanghai is a world city as it claims; I felt at home there, and despite not speaking any Chinese, had little difficulty finding my way around. Rating: B
PVG-BKK-SIN
Thai Airways PVG-BKK
Airbus A330
Business
I slept most of this flight; I think there was a meal, and not sure about the movies/entertainment but from previous C-class experience on the A330 do not remember it be overwhelming. Early arrival in BKK meant no gate waiting for us; final arrival at the gate was on time.
Finnair BKK-SIN
MD-11
Business
I really wanted to try Finnair's new business class; the one-way fare in business was only $99, so I indulged. I had to exit customs and immigration and go back upstairs to check in, which was relatively painless. I got the seat I wanted, a window in the first row on the right (LOADS of extra room there), and went to the lovely Qantas lounge for a drink and some sammie's before boarding. Upon boarding, I was pleasant surprised; the new business class is really nice! I had forgotten how LARGE the windows on the MD-11 were; much bigger than other aircraft, or my imagination? The flight was pretty empty in business - only 9 - and the service was also very slow. I reclined the seat and went right to sleep and skipped the meal, but the menu left something to be desired for me. Still, a comfortable flight in a great business class and I would not hesitate to fly them on this route again, especially for that price! Rating: B
Raffles The Plaza
Another Priceline room - $100/night for 2 nights, not a bad deal for this hotel. I arrived sort of late on the first night so had a quick dinner in Suntec food court and went to sleep. Next day was gorgeous - walked around Orchard Road, got a foot massage, watched Da Vinci Code on its second night - a pleasant Singapore day. Third day, got another foot massage and then went to the airport for my flight.
Singapore Airlines
SIN-FRA
First Class
When I initially booked in business class on this flight, I found that after book and going to select my seats there were none available. I found that odd, so called up SQ in the states to get the seat assignment. Indeed, the friendly agent said that on this particular flight Raffles was fully booked, but I could wait for a seat at the airport. I asked how much to upgrade to First and if there were seats; the right price and my preferred seat - 2A - and I was on my way. This was the day flight so full service of caviar, full meals, the works. It is a long flight because of being all daytime and somewhere just north of Iran, we hit turbulence like I've never experienced. Cabin crew had to quickly stow their carts and be seated for close to 90 minutes. We were 20 minutes late getting in Frankfurt as a result of trying to route around the turbulence and the captain, flight stewards and purser were very apologetic. I did not have a connection to make so did not really care. Rating: B- b/c of turbulence.
Sheraton FRA Airport
Stayed here one night - not much to say. Went in, checked in, showered, went to sleep. Woke next morning, had breakfast, back to airport.
Croatia Airlines
FRA-DBV/Dubrovnik
Business
Economy class was sold out in cheap fare classes on this early morning flight so I opted for a $30 upgrade to business. I figured the extra RDM would be worth the $30. What a terrible little airline; I am forgiving, but from boarding to deplaning, not one of the flight crew said anything to anyone that I saw. They were stoic and silent, using pantomime and gesturing to get their work done. The "meal" was inedible steamed dumplings - no filling - with bread crumbs on top. Seats are typical EU business - 3x3, with middle blocked. Best part was arriving in DBV and getting off. Rating: D
Stayed in an apartment in Dubrovnik for one week and was pleasantly surprised by some things, but overall disappointed. I was expecting more than just hordes and busses FULL UP of German and British tourists wearing socks with their sandals. Well, at least I can say I've seen Croatia; not sure I'd go back, and definitely not to Dubrovnik. Rating: C
JUNE 2006
Croatia Airlines
DBV-LGW
Y Class
I flew to BCN the long way - DBV-LGW-BCN, with the DBV-LGW on Croatia Airlines and BA on the second leg. This flight was better - I was in the last row of the airplane, 28C, and blessedly, mine was the only empty row on the whole plane. I layed down and went to sleep for about 90 minutes of the 2 hr flight. When I woke we were beginning our descent into LGW, and arrived on time. The crew on this flight were slightly better; I saw they were at least talking to the passengers. Maybe they went to a different school of etiquette. Rating: indifference, but C
British Airways
LGW-BCN
Y class
I have always like BA's intra-European Y class. The seats are nice, the cupholder on the armrest is a useful, and I find the cabin very inviting in general. This flight - 737-500 - was packed to the gills with holiday makers and a LARGE group of 12 year olds seemingly going on some sort of retreat but I had been seated in the exit row, thanks BA! Flight departed and arrived on-time, not much else in way of service but the cabin crew were very polite and friendly, and I was surprised at how efficient they were with the sandwich/2x drink run/duty free cart services on a 90 minute flight. Rating: B+
Barcelona
Hotel B
Gran Via
NICE hotel at the right price, just slightly outside the center of Barcelona next to the old bullring (now being converted to a shopping center) in Plaza de la Espanya. It is close to the metro and therefore convenient. I found the whole hotel charming; services are limited but you are near so many good restaurants and anyway, who eats room service in a city that doesn't eat dinner until midnight? I love Barcelona for its modern vs. historic charm, and had a great 5 days. Rating on both BCN and the hotel: A
TAP Air Portugal
BCN-LIS-OPO/Porto
Y class
An early morning flight, but the B-Hotel is only 15 minutes from the airport which is ideal. Slept from BCN-LIS, not sure what took place for breakfast or what not; arrived a bit late in LIS. Had a short connection, but fortunately - this NEVER happens when you need it! - we parked at a jetbridge, and the connecting flight left from the bussed gate just downstairs. Otherwise, would have never made it. I was not particularly worried as TP run about 10 flights a day LIS-OPO. Made the connection and 38 minutes later were in Porto. TAP are not exactly luxurious; for short flights, I have no hesitation. For longer flights - North America, Africa - not sure I'd choose them. You see, the female flight attendants wear these little gloves during boarding and I always pictured them taking the gloves off and slapping a passenger who asked a stupid question. Anyway, rating: B.
Sheraton Porto
Fabulous hotel in a nice little city - great spa, great breakfast (Veuve, caviar!!!). Rating: A
Porto
The historic area is a World Heritage Site, and is much more charming (I think) than in Lisbon. Also went to Braga and Guimaraes to see some holy places in Portugal. Porto is a pleasant if industrial city; it has a bad reputation as a place where you can do nothing, which I find unfair. I found plenty of diversions and never once felt like it was a bore. That said, I am not sure I would return to Porto soon; there is not much left for me to see. Rating: B+
TAP Air Portugal
OPO-LIS
Y class
Quick hop on TP to LIS. Oddly enough, got to boarding gate as the signs all said "Boarding." Aircraft was there, but no gate agents and door was shut. Hmm. Waited 25 minutes, gate agent shows up, takes her purse from a locker below the desk, walks away. 5 minutes later - boards now showing "Departed," must be automatic - gate agent comes back, opens door, everyone boards. No boarding announcements were ever made. Left the gate only 10 minutes late (very light flight, not full), captain apologizes in Portuguese for the delay. Bags in LIS took 50 minutes to arrive. Odd. Rating: D for the ground services
Marriott Lisbon
OK, so Tripadvisor says this is a good hotel in an OK location, convenient to the subway to central Lisbon. I disagree on both points. It is an average hotel in an average location, and is not all that convenient to the subway. Lisbon weather was not cooperating - rain and overcast - and decided that after two days, had enough and flew to Madrid. Not the world's biggest fan of Lisbon at this point, maybe judged it too soon. Rating for both: D+
Iberia
LIS-MAD
Business Class
Booked this last minute on Iberia website and only business was available; also checked TP, and same. So, off on Iberia I went. Check in was smooth, agents friendly (I speak Spanish, hey it helps!). Flight was on a long in the tooth MD-87, but on the short flight the friendly crew did manage a meal and 3 beverage runs in business class. On time arrival in Madrid, and quick baggage delivery. Rating: B+
Hotel Quo Puerta del Sol
Nice little hotel in the middle of the city. Rooms are tiny, loud and bright but modern, and clean. I would look around for a bigger room but otherwise would stay here again. Rating: B+
Madrid
Love it - modern, clean, lots of history, close to great World Heritage Sites like Escorial and Toledo. Madrid has so much to offer, and is severely underrated. Rating: A+
Iberia
Madrid-Granada
Business Class
Part of a MAD-GRX-MAD-JNB ticket on Iberia, otherwise would not choose business on such a short flight. Actually, the service on this flight was fabulous. I speak Spanish and this definitely helps with cabin crews and Iberia ground staff; a little trouble with my ticket on check in, not sure why, but the friendly ticket agent helped sort it out with the check in clerk. Flight was short - 45 minutes - on another MD-88. I was the only one in business, and was showered with attention and beverages. Breakfast was served - HOT! - and surprisingly, in two courses. They had some leftover fruit from the captain's meal and asked if I might not prefer to have that; I said, may I have both? So they served me the fruit first and the hot portion later. Rating: A
Hotel Hesperia Granada
Average, small rooms with fake wood flooring. Loud, and despite claiming on their website when I booked it that they are 30 metres from the Alhambra entrance with views from some rooms, it is not true. Still, good value for a hotel in the center of the city and convenient enough to Alhambra. Rating: C+
Granada
Love it - Alhambra is the main attraction, but there is actually a lot to see and do here, and the city is very "Spanish." Gypsies on the outskirts of Sacramonte who live in pseudo-caves and perform Flamenco are a sight to see; watch your belongings here, they are sly :) Rating: A
That's it for now - tonight, headed Granada-MAD-JNB, then have a month in Africa - Capetown, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe then Dubai, finally in Cairo and Luxor, then home. Stay tuned for the rest of the trip report.