Argentina - Mendoza (MDZ) - the ultimate Q&A thread

OK Folks.... in the spirit of the sister thread that started a couple of years ago on Buenos Aires, Ive decided to open one about Mendoza, mother region of all wines from Argentina. (please note, Argentina makes wine in several other regions outside Mendoza, alas, it remains the most important one).

Please feel free to post away with your questions right here, I will do my best to share what information I have and my experiences.

For proper disclosure, while I have no affiliation with all the places I will discuss here that offer different kinds of services in Mendoza, I am a member of the wine trade in Buenos Aires and am therefore a frequent patron of most of the places I comment on.

With regards from Buenos Aires,
Alejandro (Gaucho100K)

Please feel free to post away with your questions right here, I will do my best to share what information I have and my experiences.

Okay, I'll bite -- we're headed on a South American trip in a couple of weeks, and will be arriving by bus from SCL into Mendoza on June 7 and departing June 9. We're staying at the Park Hyatt and will have a car. Around SCL, we're staying at Hacienda Los Lingues and visiting some wineries, but would love to get some recommendations on restaurants and/or wineries to visit around the Mendoza area.

I'm not sure what distinctions there are between the Chilean wine scene and the Mendoza, Argentinian one, but any suggestions that help highlight those distinctions would be great, too!

Thanks, Gaucho100K -- we're actually headed to EZE from Mendoza, and will take advantage of some of your great expertise from the EZE thread while there, too!

Depending on which specific subregion you visit, Mendoza is spread out over larger portions of territory. Signage in Mendoza is still rudimentary, thingsare generally more organized in Chile. If you mean styles of wines, then I would say that Chile has a clear advantage when it comes to still white wines, while in the red wine department - Argentina has considerably more depth in quality wines.

Some restaurants:

1884 Francis Malmmann
Bistro at the Park Hyatt
El Palenque (local, good homemade style food)
La Bourgogne at Vistalba Carlos Pulenta
Postales del Plata (Chacras de Coria)

Wineries to visit (please note some places require advance booking):
La Rural Rutini - Museo del Vino
Chandon Argentina
Familia Zuccardi
Bodegas Lopez
Catena Zapata

These are great jumping-off ideas; thank you SO much. I appreciate your generosity with your expertise!

>>Depending on which specific subregion you visit, Mendoza is spread out over larger portions of territory. Signage in Mendoza is still rudimentary, thingsare generally more organized in Chile. If you mean styles of wines, then I would say that Chile has a clear advantage when it comes to still white wines, while in the red wine department - Argentina has considerably more depth in quality wines.

Some restaurants:

1884 Francis Malmmann
Bistro at the Park Hyatt
El Palenque (local, good homemade style food)
La Bourgogne at Vistalba Carlos Pulenta
Postales del Plata (Chacras de Coria)

Wineries to visit (please note some places require advance booking):
La Rural Rutini - Museo del Vino
Chandon Argentina
Familia Zuccardi
Bodegas Lopez
Catena Zapata<<

We went to Mendoza for the Vendimia at the beginning of March. Here are a couple of observations.

The Park Hyatt is a good location. It's right across the street from Plaza Independencia. Just up the street on the way to San Martin Park on Avenue Sarmiento you will find a number of little bistros and restaurants (includeing Azafran which my wife really liked) that were pretty good. There is a really good Helado (Ice Cream) store on the corner of Belgrado and Avenue Sarmiento which we really liked. We ate at 1884 Francis Mallman twice in our four day visit. My wife loved their pumpkin ravioli (had it both times) and I had a steak once and a salted chicken which was very good.

We took a tour for visiting the wineries which was really interesting and fun. I really enjoyed Alta Vista winery and we had lunch at Ruca Malen. At Ruca Malen winery you do the wine tasting with lunch (lunch was very good--It included Sweet corn tortelette, beef tenderloin, and cinnamon and cheese mouse for dessert).

We went during the Vendimia and it was fabulous. So much was going on during our stay that we are talking about going back next year again.

The Hyatt is indeed a fine hotel, although in the end its just another Hyatt. If one is open to explore new types of experiences, I would strongly suggest trying alternative lodging in a somewhat less than urban setting. I suggest looking into the following places:

Postales del Plata - http://www.postalesdelplata.com

Cavas Wine Lodge - http://www.cavaswinelodge.com/

Lares de Chacras - http://www.laresdechacras.com/

For the budget minded, some options to consider are:

Hotel Aconcagua - http://www.hotelaconcagua.com/english

NH Cordillera - http://www.nhhotelesdirectorio.com

Many folks ask me about renting a car in Mendoza. This is of course possible, but there are a number of drawbacks.

First, rental costs in Argentina are high when compared to other countries. Signage in Mendoza is rather ackward, and distances from winery to winery is sometimes important. Dont think Napa where everything is close and signage is perfect... Mendoza is big, there is a lot of new development and even the locals arent the best for directions, things are changing very quickly. Plus, if you really want to enjoy your wines, its a bad idea to get behind the wheel.

Renting a car with a driver or a van if you are in a small group is the best way to go. I will dig up a few contacts and post more information later.

What airlines fly between Mendoza and Bariloche? Is the distance sufficiently far that flying is the most sensible way to travel?

What airlines fly between Mendoza and Bariloche? Is the distance sufficiently far that flying is the most sensible way to travel?

Im fairly certain that there are no direct flights from Mendoza to Bariloche. The only way would be to route through AEP (Buenos Aires City Airport), or alternatively through SCL although I assume that would be more expensive.

Long distance bus is also an option, although Ive never traveled that route and dont have the details.

What airlines fly between Mendoza and Bariloche? Is the distance sufficiently far that flying is the most sensible way to travel?

The Aerolineas web site lists only flights (https://wftc1.e-travel.com/pl/arwebv7/en/OverrideServlet) via AEP. About 4 hours flying and waits of 1+(+++) hours at AEP.

Thanks for confirming my guess. Domestic air travel in Argentina does have its issues, things have gotten slightly better as of late so there should be no major delays.

The Aerolineas web site lists only flights (https://wftc1.e-travel.com/pl/arwebv7/en/OverrideServlet) via AEP. About 4 hours flying and waits of 1+(+++) hours at AEP.
You can fly from MDZ-BRC via SCL, but it's only one day a week:Thursday. The SCL-BRC direct flights are limited to Th pm outbound and rtr SUN evening. U wld lve MDZ am11:20, arr SCL 11:15, dep SCL 3:35 arr Brc 6:30; one-way fare on LAN for a thursday JULY 13=$372(Unless U have visa you're stuck in transit area 4 1/2 hrs!). The return would leave you in SCL Sun nite as the 8PM dep flight won't connect to any MDZ flights so hotel stay would be in your pocket.(LAN could fly u back to MDZ via AEP) The roundtrip cost for that would be $515. Not including cost of hotel and 100 visa fee for leaving airport for stay. You have better selection via AEP from MDZ the rtrip is $ 672 currently for same days. Maybe an airpass might be consideration if u plan on doing any more flying while there. I did not check on rtrip rtr via AEP both ways cost.

Does the airpass help you with the visa issue...? I guess those costs would be incurred regradless, or?

Does the airpass help you with the visa issue...? I guess those costs would be incurred regradless, or?
Yes on both counts if u plan on visiting Brazil or Chile either on airpass or single flights u would have to add in costs for visas.

Gaucho;
Thank you for the offer.
I was in Baires for 5 days in March and loved it.
I lived there for some time during my childhood (many many years ago) and know I remember why my family LOVED Argentina.
I am going for 2 weeks in September and rented an apt.
Just planning to eat good food, drink a lot of Limoncello, ice cream and coffee.
I would like to go "out of town" for 2 nights.
Bariloche is expensive. I am quoted 1700-2500 pesos per person.
I was looking for something much cheaper.
how about Mendoza? I love wine.
by the way, I used to live in Catamarca. Is that worth a trip?
thank you very much for your help
Gracias

For September, 1700 pesos per person may be reasonable for a destination like Bariloche. What services are included?

Ive never been to Catamarca, so Im afraid I cannot help you with that destination.

Mendoza will be less expensive if you select budget accomodations. You could save more by traveling by bus instead of flying.

I am returning to Mendoza late in the summer. Some time ago a Mendocino recommended the Salentein Malbec and I have been quite happy with it. Are there other Malbec's that you would recommend that would be worth schlepping back to the US? The Malbec was also memorable as one of the times that I purchased it was during the time that the peso fell from 1.3 to 3 to the dollar in about 2 days. While this was a terrible misfortune for the Argentines, it was an accidental good fortune of timing for me.

Wine prices have re-settled after the havoc caused by the banking & currency crisis that you mention above. The Salentein Mablec Roble you mention is a good wine, albeit IMO not great. There are currently a good number of wines in the AR$25 to AR$60 range that have excellent QPR. A short teaser list includes:

Benegas - Juan Benegas Malbec
Escorihuela Gascon Malbec
Tikal - Tahuan Malbec
Benegas - Benegas Malbec
Terrazas Reserva Malbec

For more detailed Recs. and other related information, please PM me and I will be happy to assist you.

Disclaimer: I am a EZE based wine merchant.

If you're intersted in Mendoza, you might also be interested in this article from the New York Times (http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/07/02/travel/02next.html) on "neighboring" Salta, an up and coming wine/tourist region. Seems to attract more Argentinians and Europeans right now, but may be worth a look. Enjoy.

nor4-- You make an excellent point. Salta is (after Mendoza) the next most important destination for the serious wine aficionado. Other regions to consider are Patagonia, and San Juan.

Greetings:

First trip to Argentina.
I'll be spending 5 nights in Mendoza Sept 21-26, 2006.
Any comments about the Apartments Park Suites
on Avd. Mitre?

Any suggestions about tour of Mendoza, Winerys, and the
surrounding mountains?

Thx.

Richard

Im afraid I dont know the apartments you mention. You will be there during late Spring, so skiing will most probably be out of the question, still, the weather should be quite nice to go up to Las Leñas and perhaps do some riding or hiking.

As for wine country, I suggest you check out the following bodegas:

La Rural - Rutini
Bodega Benegas
Terrazas de los Andes
Escorihuela Gascon
Chandon Argentina
Catena Zapata

Have a great trip.

I will be traveling to Mendoza in October and would like recommendations on where to stay. My wife and I thought it would be nice to stay at a small winery but I've also read great things about chacra de coria. Can anyone recommend lodging at a small winery - not interested in the large ones - or have any comments on staying in chacra de coria and taking day trips from there??

Gracias,

I will be traveling to Mendoza in October and would like recommendations on where to stay. My wife and I thought it would be nice to stay at a small winery but I've also read great things about chacra de coria. Can anyone recommend lodging at a small winery - not interested in the large ones - or have any comments on staying in chacra de coria and taking day trips from there??

Gracias,

I suggest you stay in the area of Chacras de Coria. Please feel free to email me and I will put you in contact with the owner of a place which offers great service and reasonable rates.

I'm headed to MDZ next week and looking forward to it. I had read somewhere that there was once daily non-stop to EZE rather than AEP but can't seem to find it (and assume it is incorrect info). Any idea? Thanks

I'm headed to MDZ next week and looking forward to it. I had read somewhere that there was once daily non-stop to EZE rather than AEP but can't seem to find it (and assume it is incorrect info). Any idea? Thanks

Uh....where are you coming FROM?

If you are asking about flights from EZE to MDZ, there are two flights that connect through SCL:

LA 460 EZE - SCL 02:15PM 03:30PM 320
LA 932 SCL - MDZ 04:25PM 06:25PM 320

and,

LA 402 EZE - SCL 06:45AM 08:00AM 320
LA 930 SCL - MDZ 08:45AM 10:45AM 737

**Note really tight connection!

That's the only two I know about.

FYI - do you know about expertflyer.com and/or itasoftware.com?
EF is subscription, but ITA is free, and you could easily find the info you needed there (and much more). Try it, you'll like it.

Gaucho100K,

I have read your various helpful pieces of advice and I would like you to know that I am extremely grateful.

I will be visiting Argentina in November and Mendoza in in plans. While in Mendoza I would like to take a bus trip accross the Andes to SLC and I would be grateful for any advice regarding the best/most reliable bus company. Also any links to the schedules and booking arrangements would be appreciated.

Thanks for your kind words. However, it seems like I will have to let you down with your request for help, since all I can tell you is that I know there is a regular (scheduled) bus service from Mendoza to SCL, but Ive never used the service and Im afraid I dont know the specifics.

A quick search on the internet took me to this site:

http://www.e-mountain.com.ar/0BUS/catamdz.htm

Sorry I cant be of more help.

Thanks for the information. I guess that I will follow up with my hotel when I make my reservation (s).

I have a new question relating to hotel rates for gringos (or Aussies in my case).

The rate for the Park Hyatt Mendoza that are available on the Aerolineas Argentinas site ("Hotel" tab) is ARS 468 (abt $156). When I tried to book this, I got a message back stating that the rate for foreigners is $220.

Can you enlighten me on this policy. Is there any way around it? Why would the hotel care?

Thanks for the wonderful contribution that you are making.


Brian

Thanks for the information. I guess that I will follow up with my hotel when I make my reservation (s).

I have a new question relating to hotel rates for gringos (or Aussies in my case).

The rate for the Park Hyatt Mendoza that are available on the Aerolineas Argentinas site ("Hotel" tab) is ARS 468 (abt $156). When I tried to book this, I got a message back stating that the rate for foreigners is $220.

Can you enlighten me on this policy. Is there any way around it? Why would the hotel care?

Thanks for the wonderful contribution that you are making.


Brian

Brian,

It seems the Hyatt is offering special rates to residents. The issue of special rates for citizens and residents has been widely debated on various threads throughout FT, as this practice happens throughout various cities in the world.

While in Mendoza I would like to take a bus trip accross the Andes to SLC and I would be grateful for any advice regarding the best/most reliable bus company. Also any links to the schedules and booking arrangements would be appreciated.You mean SCL? Also the buses don't terminate at SCL but inside the city at Estacion Alameda or Estacion Santiago.

I personally have taken 6 different bus companies on this route.

The best (for this 7-8 hour trip) are Turbus, Andesmar and CATA.

Tickets can safely be purchased day of or day before at the Mendoza bus station EXCEPT DURING A CHILENO OR ARGENTINO HOLIDAY WEEKEND! Buy days in advance for this situation.

Get seats up front across from the driver's side for thrilling views. The highest peak in SA will be to the north. Take a jacket or sweater for the border crossing and something to snack on but do consume and trash all fresh produce before the border.

Thanks for the detailed info on the buses, Viajero.... I get asked this question all the time and I can never answer proficiently, until now that is... :D

I am coming to BA next week. Are there any day tours offered from BA to Mendoza? Air and tour of the region? What can I expect to pay? Thanks!

While its (in theory) feasible to go to Mendoza and return the same day, considering the recent air-travel issues that have hit Aerolineas Argentinas and the rest of the local carriers serving this route, I would suggest caution if you need to be back the same day and on time to catch an outbound international connection.

As advised in a separate thread, please beware that flights to Mendoza from Buenos Aires are now being operated from EZE and not from AEP (Buenos Aires City Airport).

As advised in a separate thread, please beware that flights to Mendoza from Buenos Aires are now being operated from EZE and not from AEP (Buenos Aires City Airport).
Sure about that? EF shows plenty of AR flights AEP-MDZ in November.

I dont know what EF is.... but, please note Im not saying that service to MDZ is being shut down, Im just saying that flights will operate from the International Airport. Perhaps flights are still being sold as operating from AEP, but in practice, the information that was published today in all the major Buenos Aires papers indicates that all flights to MDZ will have to operate out of EZE.

I stumbled on a great article that covers many of the restaurants in Mendoza (http://thegrapevine-argentina.com/dining.htm) recommended in this thread. It really sounds like some fine eating.

The Park Hyatt concierge has recommended La Bourgogne, on the grounds of Vistalba Carlos Pulenta. She tells us it is about a 20 minute drive; however, the article I referenced above says it is about 40 minutes. Gaucho100K, what do you think? We'll have a car. How difficult is it to find? It only matters because we will be stepping off a plane at 11:30am, then going out for lunch. Also, is there an online map that shows where this is? I've had no success in my search.

Im afraid I dont know of an online map. I think an accurate drive time is about 30 minutes.... however, getting around Mendoza is not easy and there is a lot of road work going on, further complicating things. If you rent a vehicle, I would strongly suggest you arrange for a driver to take you around (make sure he knows the wineries you want to visit).

BTW, the recommendation of La Bourgogne is a very good one, when in Mendoza - dont miss out on a meal at LB. IMHO, its better than LB in Buenos Aires.

I want to add Andeluna to the list of top places to have a meal in Mendoza. Andeluna is a winery, its a joint venture of the Reina Rutini (ex La Rural) and the Lay (Frito Lay) families. They have build a state of the art facility in the Valle de Uco, and have more recently opened a guest-facility that includes a very nice restaurant. Chef Pablo del Rio is in charge, and the food is very good. Only catch is that advanced reservations are a must, and there is a minimum group of 5 required, plus other details.

Please note that the Valle de Uco is approx. 100 kilometers away from the city of Mendoza, so make sure to plan this in advance, including issues of transportation and possible lodging nearby.

For more information on Andeluna, please see:

http://www.andeluna.com/

Good news for Mendoza visitors. Starwood has finalized plans and purchased a large plot of land in Tunuyan (in the Uco Valley) where they plan to develop a 5 Star Resort, presumably under the Sheraton Flag. This will give Mendoza an excellent option for international standard accomodations, and serve visitors that wish to have better access to the entire Valle de Uco region. Today, visitors that stay in town (ie. Mendoza) have to travel up to 130-150 Kilometers to visit many of the important producers that have their operations in the Uco Valley. With the opening of this new Starwood resort, travel distance will be less than 40 kilometers to most all Bodegas.

No dates on opening for the resort have yet been announced, but this is great news for Mendoza and will probably mean more players will look closely into building new hotels to add to the Mendoza Wine Route.

Hello from Mendoza!

I arrived here yesterday via an overnight bus from BA. Not wanting to think, we decided to take the half day winery tour offered by many travel agents. This particular one, brought us to "Cavas de Don Arturo" & another. During the tasting, we tasted Cab '04 and it seems pretty good. So we decided to buy their Cab 04 & 03. Back at the hotel, we tried those wine and they seem different than the one we tasted.
During the tour, they said that they don't sell their wine anywhere else but US (some exclusive deal with some US company) so you won't see it in Argentina. I've googled the web but only came up with blogs from people that went to the same wine tour.
When we did the tasting, they didn't open the bottle in front of us, they already had it in a decanter. Now I'm wondering if that was some different wine they try to "bait & switch" on us. And this is their only means to sell the wine. It's a small winery, family run.
Have anyone heard of this winery?? or am I just being paranoid?

Hello from Mendoza!

I arrived here yesterday via an overnight bus from BA. Not wanting to think, we decided to take the half day winery tour offered by many travel agents. This particular one, brought us to "Cavas de Don Arturo" & another. During the tasting, we tasted Cab '04 and it seems pretty good. So we decided to buy their Cab 04 & 03. Back at the hotel, we tried those wine and they seem different than the one we tasted.
During the tour, they said that they don't sell their wine anywhere else but US (some exclusive deal with some US company) so you won't see it in Argentina. I've googled the web but only came up with blogs from people that went to the same wine tour.
When we did the tasting, they didn't open the bottle in front of us, they already had it in a decanter. Now I'm wondering if that was some different wine they try to "bait & switch" on us. And this is their only means to sell the wine. It's a small winery, family run.
Have anyone heard of this winery?? or am I just being paranoid?

Dear dmk11-- There are many wine projects in Mendoza that are 100% export oriented, and quite a few of these are focused exclusively on selected US markets. It seems like the winery you visited has an agreement to exclusively sell the wine they make to one US importer. This is not uncommon in Mendoza (and many other wine regions internationally).

Im afraid I dont know this winery, and cannot give you further references. All I can think of is that if you have a phone number handy, I would give them a call and have them replace the wine.... also, have you tried decanting the bottles you purchased? Are you serving the wine at the same temperature it was served to you at the winery?

...
For more information on Andeluna, please see:

http://www.andeluna.com/

Alex - what's your opinion of their wines?

I enjoyed the 2004 Malbec Reserva, but the bottle of 2004 Merlot I opened was basically undrinkable - it had some overpowering off notes. Was this just a bad bottle? I haven't been tempted to open the second bottle I have, but anyway I'll have to wait until I'm back in BsAs.

John

John-- Im sure you just got caught with an off bottle.... most probably corked. Andeluna is a very serious & quality oriented producer, Im a fan of all their wines - especially their Reserve Chardonnay. Their high-end Pasionado blend is also very good.

"2 Perfect Days in Mendoza"?

I didn't expect I'd be there in a few weeks, but will be spending 3 nights (2 FULL days, with an evening and a morning on either end).

I haven't really had time to figure out what I want to do there, but the vino is an interest. However, having been to countless wineries of many shapes and sizes, a mass-production place with styles crafted to the "typical north american" palate wouldn't be of much appeal, nor would being on a busload of gringos to a factory.

I found an acceptable rate at the NH (many properties seem to be full), which seems quite central. I don't care to rent a car.

So given this, what is a good way to pass 2 days in Mendoza? Does the town itself have much appeal/attractions?

For the small Bodega experience, I suggest you look into visiting:

Bodega Benegas
La Azul
Achaval Ferrer
Domain St. Diego

To avoid the bus load of folks... just hire a car & driver. Mendoza proper is nice to walk around for maybe half a day... but Im not sure there is much to see that is of huge interest.

The best (for this 7-8 hour trip) are Turbus, Andesmar and CATA.

Tickets can safely be purchased day of or day before at the Mendoza bus station EXCEPT DURING A CHILENO OR ARGENTINO HOLIDAY WEEKEND! Buy days in advance for this situation.

Get seats up front across from the driver's side for thrilling views. The highest peak in SA will be to the north. Take a jacket or sweater for the border crossing and something to snack on but do consume and trash all fresh produce before the border.

Superb advice^

The Hyatt concierge insisted that only Turbus ran this route. However, we had your post and knew otherwise. We got Hyatt to call the 3 companies and find the schedules. Hyatt insisted that none had double decker buses, as they were too high to drive thru the Andes. Of course, all 3 companies had double deckers.

We bought from CATA, and it was just fine. Seats were assigned upstairs. They had a lot of legroom; they are much superior to an American bus. We wished we had bought from Andesmar, as it appeared that they had first class seats downstairs, whereas Turbus and CATA only had single class seats.

It is a beautiful drive thru the Andes, a real day of sightseeing. You pass the Portillo ski slope on the Chilean side. It takes 1 1/2 hours to cross the border. You have to get out of the bus, go into the border building, do the paperwork to exit Argentina and then the paperwork to enter Chile. We weren't charged the Chilean reciprocity fee. Then the bus is brought up and emptied. We had to put our hand luggage thru the scanner as well. Not only do they confiscate produce, they will take honey and cheese.

It took us about 7 hours including the border crossing time.

Hotels
We stayed at the Park Hyatt, nicely sited on the main square. The River Plata team stayed at the hotel, and security was heavy inside and out. We saw a tower being erected with the Sheraton name in front. This building is one block from the in town Avis office. I have no idea when it is to open.

Restaurants
We had two superb meals.

1884 Francis Mallman (www.escorihuela.com.ar)
Belgrano 1188 - Godoy Cruz
If you are driving here, get very careful directions. There is a Belgrano on the west side of town, but this is not the street you need. The restaurant is on the east side of town, not too far from the divided road that comes from the airport past the bus station, wrapping itself around the south side of the city.

The restaurant is inside the Bodega Escorihuela. If the weather is warm, book a table outside, overlooking a pleasant small courtyard. The food was very good, with a decent selection of lighter continental fare.

La Bourgogne (www.carlospulentawines.com)
This is the best restaurant in Mendoza, and it is pheomenal. We were shocked to find the food so good at a place that only had 30 or so dining. In a major world city, the place would be jammed, and prices would be 4 to 5 times as high. Book this before you get to town, and you will not be disappointed.

Get very specific directions from your hotel if you plan to drive, and it will still be a bit tricky. Some letters on the restuarant sign are down, and the winery sign is very small. The gate is closed, and it simply doesn't look like a place with a restaurant within. Nonetheless, after a few false starts, we found it, and the guard found our name on his list.

You walk thru a complex of buildings to the restaurant, which overlooks the vineyard. If you are there during the day, book a table on the terrace. It is lovely. The food was absolutely exquisite, from start to finish. The chef blends classic French techniques with premium local ingredients for a uniquely Argentinean meal.

Azafran
This restaurant was a 2 block walk from the Park Hyatt. It was recommended a number of places, but we were unimpressed. We found the food quite simple and rather roughly prepared.

Car Rental
We rented a car, and found it simple enough to drive. You need to take care, as many streets in town are one way. There will be an arrow by the street name that indicates which direction you can drive. Also, intersections are a bit exciting, as few have stoplights or stop signs. There is an Avis office in town if you want a car for just part of your stay.

Departing MDZ, how long should one plan for (1) trip to airport, and (2) how far in advance to arrive prior to int'l flight?

Also, is there a lovely "we're glad you stayed, debes cancelar tu impuesto de salida, viajero - Chao un beso" booth?

Thanks

"2 Perfect Days in Mendoza"?
... So given this, what is a good way to pass 2 days in Medoza? Does the town itself have much appeal/attractions?

Well if you get bored, I can recommend jumping off a cliff (parapente).
http://www.cuyo.com/mendozaciudad/cerroarco.asp
I jumped with Alejandro Pissinatto who's mentioned in the article I linked (allong with his cell phone number).

Saludos!

John

And rafting on the Rio Mendoza was fun too:

http://www.betancourt.com.ar/rafting.asp

John

Departing MDZ, how long should one plan for (1) trip to airport, and (2) how far in advance to arrive prior to int'l flight?

Also, is there a lovely "we're glad you stayed, debes cancelar tu impuesto de salida, viajero - Chao un beso" booth?

Thanks

Even in traffic, its never more than 30 minutes to MDZ airport. I dont think that arriving earlier than 1 hour or so is needed... its a small airport and there are few international flights.

(bump)

I'd suggest arriving 1:30 prior to an int'l flight. Without Lan or OW status, the line at that point took awhile. I was check-in #77 (on an A320). With status, there was no line. By the time you wait to check in, pay the tax at the booth, go through security, visit the exit immigration counter, and spend time in the opulent Duty Free shop, I had extra time, but not a lot, and the check-in line quickly got long behind me.

I stumbled on a great article that covers many of the restaurants in Mendoza (http://thegrapevine-argentina.com/dining.htm) recommended in this thread. It really sounds like some fine eating.

The Park Hyatt concierge has recommended La Bourgogne, on the grounds of Vistalba Carlos Pulenta. She tells us it is about a 20 minute drive; however, the article I referenced above says it is about 40 minutes. Gaucho100K, what do you think? We'll have a car. How difficult is it to find? It only matters because we will be stepping off a plane at 11:30am, then going out for lunch. Also, is there an online map that shows where this is? I've had no success in my search.

I'm surprised this thread was up so long before some-one posted this link. It is for a newsprint guide that is distributed in Mendoza. Pick one up when you are there.

Francis Malman's restaurant is superb. La Sal is excellent. La Tasca is a wonderful small, informal place that even has some of its own almost unlabelled wine.

Club Tapiz is an outsanding place to stay and its restaurant Terruno is also excellent. Great place to base yourself for some time out of the City.

Hertz has a rental location in Plaza Independencia where you can rent at a reasonable cost and you can return the car at the airport. On our last visit we spent 3 nights in the city at Park Suites which are great value in a great location. Then we got the car and spent 3 nights at Club Tapiz and did a drive into the mountains from there plus one day at a couple of wineries, Ruca Malen and Catena Zapata. Lunch at Ruca Malen is superb. If you plan to visit more than a couple of wineries in a day then do so from the city and hire a car with a driver...its reasonable and much safer.

Thanks for mentioning La Sal and La Tasca, I havent visited these places in a while and need to check them out again... ^

If you plan to visit more than a couple of wineries in a day then do so from the city and hire a car with a driver...its reasonable and much safer.

I'll second the driver idea - I had a free part-day and asked at the hotel desk about tours/drivers, etc. and they called and got a driver, and the "unnegotiated" fixed price was AR$60 for a few hours in the afternoon. Worth every centavo.

Almacen del Sur - a great place for a Meal

I want to add Almacen del Sur to the list of must visits in Mendoza, especially if you are looking for a gourmet meal. Reservations are a must for evenings, and although you may show up for lunch without an appointment, I strongly suggest you book in advance.

For details please see: www.almacendelsur.com

A place not to be missed in Mendoza is the Zuccardi winery, about 30 km from town a couple of km off the road to San Luis (it's signed, and taxis are cheap...). Excellent food there, good parrillada, good service, great wines and the prices aren't bad...try it, you won't regret it!

Siempre Viajando-- I havent been to Zuccardi for a while now... do they have a walk in restaurant or do you have to make reservations? Zuccardi makes great wines... and if you can, try the Alma 4 Sparkling wines made by Sebastian Zuccardi, they are very very good. Plus, for lovers of sparkling red wine, make sure to try the sparkling Bonarda and Syrah.

Two questions:

1) Does anyone have recommendations for a private day long tour of the better vineyards near Mendoza, and by near, I'm willing to go an hour or two away?

2) I'm considering hiring a driver to take me from Mendoza to SCL at the end of my stay -- yes, I know it's about 6 hours, but then my flight doesn't leave SCL until 11 pm. Is that feasible? If so, any recommendations for a driver or a company that supplies drivers?

Hello prh--

Im afraid I cant refer you to a guide, but I can tell you which bodegas I think you should consider visiting. Before I list names, please be aware that distances are considerable... so if you want to cover more bodegas then you may have to settle with visiting only those that are closer to the city. There are very interesting producers in the Valle de Uco region.... but if you go there you will probably not have time to visit more that 2 producers.

Some bodegas for you to consider visiting:
- Benegas
- La Rural Rutini Wines
- Trapiche
- Escorihuela Gascon
- Terrazas de los Andes

Producers that are further away:
- Bodega La Azul
- Reina Andeluna / Andeluna Cellars
- MonteViejo / Clos de los Siete
- Achaval Ferrer

Im sad to report that Im taking La Bourgogne Mendoza off my list of top spots to dine in Mendoza. My last visit there was a disaster... just about everything went wrong.

Got there at 8pm (exact time of my reservation) and my table was not ready - please note the restaurant was empty at the time. Service took for ever, they didnt have a proper bar for before dinner drinks - imagine no JW Black label :eek: .... they then take 40 minutes to take our order.... food takes for ever. Wine list is a fluke, they have 4 chardonnays listed but none of them in stock. We order the two best sparkling wines on the list, both come out at the wrong temperature...

:mad: :td: :rolleyes: :mad: :td:

Two questions:

1) Does anyone have recommendations for a private day long tour of the better vineyards near Mendoza, and by near, I'm willing to go an hour or two away?

2) I'm considering hiring a driver to take me from Mendoza to SCL at the end of my stay -- yes, I know it's about 6 hours, but then my flight doesn't leave SCL until 11 pm. Is that feasible? If so, any recommendations for a driver or a company that supplies drivers?

As for 1) - you might just want to hire a private driver for the day, and you can come and go as you please, and pick the types of wineries / tours that suit your tastes. I hired one for an afternoon (which was plenty for me) - I don't think I have the driver's card, but if I scrounge it up, I'll post it.

As for 2) - if you want to travel over land, you'd best use one of the bus services. I can't imagine any driver charging less than double or triple what an airline flight would cost, as the cost of fuel is quite high, the driver will have a lot of "down time" (one way with no fare, up to an hour each way in customs), and I don't know if there are any tolls on the highway that crosses through Santiago on the way to the airport - if so, and you don't have a car with electronic tags, you are asking for trouble. Also, note that in the early evening hours, the exit passport control lines can get quite lengthy @ SCL (followed by very short security lines) - flying from MDZ will eliminate this.

SanDiego1K did the Mendoza-Santiago bus trip and wrote it up the SAm forum. It included some good infor on which bus line to use. She says the bus trip is pleasant and worth the journey. I don't have the link, but do a search on SanDiego1K and it should pop up.

in may i will go from santiago to mendoza and would like to hire a professional driver to take us over the andes. do you know any professional i can contact? i am also interested in renting my own car in mendoza and driving it to buenos aires to drop off. i have found that the drop off fee is exorbitantly expensive. do you know of any local rental agencies i could use? national, avis, hertz are all about the same cost.

Car rentals in Argentina are expensive.... and drop off fees will kill you. Im not sure there is a low cost way to do this. IMO, I would forget driving by myself (in Mendoza signage is not very good).

does anyone know about the argentino hotel in mendoza?

Siempre Viajando-- I havent been to Zuccardi for a while now... do they have a walk in restaurant or do you have to make reservations? Zuccardi makes great wines... and if you can, try the Alma 4 Sparkling wines made by Sebastian Zuccardi, they are very very good. Plus, for lovers of sparkling red wine, make sure to try the sparkling Bonarda and Syrah.

Sorry for the delay in responding...haven't signed on for a while. We went at high season (late Jan / early Feb) and walked in without waiting very long...helped that we showed up early for lunch. But I think we got lucky...if I recall correctly they take reservations and I'd definitely recommend it especially for high season visits.

Haven't tried their sparkling wines but I love their "Q" series wines and the Santa Julia reds are usually pretty reliable, and they're now available in Canada where I live.

in may i will go from santiago to mendoza and would like to hire a professional driver to take us over the andes. do you know any professional i can contact? i am also interested in renting my own car in mendoza and driving it to buenos aires to drop off. i have found that the drop off fee is exorbitantly expensive. do you know of any local rental agencies i could use? national, avis, hertz are all about the same cost.

Try José Luis Cáceres in Santiago. His cell phone is +56(9)9251-1494. He runs a lot of drivers in Santiago and is pretty much locked to one client, but he might do some stuff on the side as well. He's a can-do guy and very honest. As far as I know he speaks no English, so I hope your Spanish is up to it. Tell him "Don Derek" referred you.

mucho gracias, i'll give him a call and cross my fingers that i can get my request across!

Sorry for the delay in responding...haven't signed on for a while. We went at high season (late Jan / early Feb) and walked in without waiting very long...helped that we showed up early for lunch. But I think we got lucky...if I recall correctly they take reservations and I'd definitely recommend it especially for high season visits.

Haven't tried their sparkling wines but I love their "Q" series wines and the Santa Julia reds are usually pretty reliable, and they're now available in Canada where I live.

Try to see if you can find a bottle of Zeta, its their top of the line label, a blend of Malbec and Tempranillo. The Sparkling line Alma 4 is being relaunched this month, and they have increased production so its possible that it will begin to be exported to selected markets by the end of the year.

Try to see if you can find a bottle of Zeta, its their top of the line label, a blend of Malbec and Tempranillo. The Sparkling line Alma 4 is being relaunched this month, and they have increased production so its possible that it will begin to be exported to selected markets by the end of the year.

Next time I'm in Mendoza I'll try it, thanks for the recommendation. BTW what's it cost? The Q was up around US$20 last time I bought, which is pretty pricey for Mendoza, I suppose the Zeta is even more...?

Next time I'm in Mendoza I'll try it, thanks for the recommendation. BTW what's it cost? The Q was up around US$20 last time I bought, which is pretty pricey for Mendoza, I suppose the Zeta is even more...?

Hi SiempreViajando--

A bottle of current vintage Zeta costs AR$200.

My experience tell me that relative pricing is always an issue of perspective. The problem that many wine aficionados face in most new export markets in the case of Argentine wines is that they are usually only exposed to the very inexpensive wines. However, if you consider all the wines that are made in Argentina, US$20 retail for a bottle of wine is not pricey.

Mendoza produces a very deep & varied selection of premium, super-premium and cult wines... but most all of these are hardly known in most export markets. To give some additional perspective, Robert Parker Jr. recently rated one cult Argentine Malbec at 96 points. The same wine was rated by Wine Spectator at 94 points. The reference price of this wine is US$150 per bottle (in the USA).

On a final note... the good news is that even at the cult wine segment of the market... Argentina still has incredible values. Compare how much you have to pay for a bottle of a cult wine from France or California that is rated 96 points by Robert Parker, and the above-mentioned concept, "pricey", is immediately put into perspective.

Cheers from Buenos Aires,
Alex (Gaucho100K)

Hi Alex, thanks for a really helpful thread. Just had a few questions:

1. Which hotel is closer to the majority of good wineries (and restaurants) - the Park Hyatt or Cavas Wine Lodge?

2. Are these hotels able to arrange a car and driver, and make winery appointments/reservations as well?

3. Is it easy to visit wineries in the Valle de Uco area in day trips from the PH/Cavas or is it preferable to stay in the Valle de Uco area itself (if so, any thoughts on the Posada Salentein)? Not quite sure where the hotels are in relation to wineries in the Maipu, Lujan de Cuyo, Valle de Uco etc.

1. Tricky question... it really depends on your choice of wineries. However, the Park Hyatt is centrally located so you are able to walk around town. Cavas WL is in a secluded area... so you are basically in the need of a car to move around.

2. Both hotels are full service establishments, so they will have a concierge that will be able to do all this for you.

3. Tricky again..... it depends on what sort of a trip you want. Its feasible to do day trips to the Valle de Uco, you will spend approx 75-90 minutes to get there from any of the two potential locations.... but its hard to be exact because inside the Valle de Uco you have wineries that are located in various sections of the Valle (and the area itself is quite large). Also, will you be driving yourself or will you be driven around by a chauffeur? (I strongly suggest the latter). I usually prefer to stay in less urban settings... so if it were me I would stay at Posada Salentein, which I find is a very nice place to stay***

*** these are nice accomodations, but not super luxury. They have nice attention to detail but they do not offer a Park Hyatt Suite like experience. The Posada is about experiencing the sights and atmosphere of the Valley, and its all about the wine.

In closing, depending on how many days you will spend in Mendoza, I would recommend you do a little of both.... a couple of days at the PH or CWL and then a couple of days at the Posada Salentein, or alternatively the Postales del Plata Valle de Uco Lodge.

Please feel free to post and/or PM me with any additional questions.

Hi,
Thanks for all this valuable info!! Definitely some great places to check out next time I'm there!!
I just got engaged and my fiancee is from Argentina. We plan to get married in MDZ at some point in '08.
I was wondering if anyone here might have suggestions on a couple of things:
1) I've been using Kayak and ITS Software to search for fares. Does anyone know of any other search engines that might useful for SFO/OAK to MDZ?
2) While I'm at it, any suggestions on a nice winery not too far from the city to have a wedding?
Thanks in advance!!

kharma99-- congratulations on your engagement. The concept of having a wedding at a winery is still relatively new in Argentina. It seems to me that the best ones equipped to handle such an event would be the ones that already have some sort of visitors center and/or restaurant service. Of course, its perfectly possible for you to just select a winery because of the ambience & scenery and just have the event fully catered at that location.... so I guess its more a matter of how much advanced planning & logistics you guys want to be involved in. Some names of places that come to mind are (but not all are close to the city):

- Familia Zuccardi
- Andeluna Cellars
- Terrazas de los Andes

Thanks Alex!!
I appreciate your help and suggestions!
I'll take a close look at those wineries you listed in your message.

One other location that is very nice and has just finished new facilities including a very large reception area and accomodations is Bodegas Salentein. They are also located in the Valle de Uco area, so its approx. a 60 minute ride from the city of Mendoza.

Do you know if it is possible to rent scooters in Mendoza? We travel frequently to Europe and have found scooters to be a fun and convenient way to explore an area.

Great question.... but Im afraid I dont know the answer. Are you staying at a full service hotel? If so, I suggest you have the concierge desk check this out for you.

Let me share my recent experience getting to Mendoza from Buenos Aires. Instead of the plane, my wife and I decided to try the bus. There seem to be two companies that stand out: Andesmar and Chevalier. I purchased the tickets on Andesmar online @ www.andesmar.com There are several services each day and we chose the "Executive" service that leaves B.A. at 7.45 PM and arrives at Mendoza at 9 am or so. Each round trip ticket was 350 pesos or about $116 US at the rate of exchange at the time. Hint: to find the origin point look not for "Buenos Aires" but "Retiro - Buenos Aires". The bus leaves from the main bus terminal near the Retiro train station by Plaza San Martin. Just after the ride starts you get a full fledged safety demo, followed by a game of Bingo. A short while later you are served dinner (choice of chicken, beef or vegan) with beverage of your choice (we went for the red wine). Then it's a movie or two on the flat screen or sleep on the full flat "bed", more or less like an international business class seat. The bus is set so that it does not exceed 50 mph, which is good considering that the roads are ok, but not up to US or Western Europe standards (in my opinion anyway). After dawn you get breakfast and a short time later you are close to downtown Mendoza. We were very satisfied even though it is a long ride; service was cordial and efficient and the accomodations (seats are 2-1 per row) quite adequate. Anyway an option to consider - much cheaper than the plane and hey, you save one night's hotel bill!

Let me share my recent experience getting to Mendoza from Buenos Aires. Instead of the plane, my wife and I decided to try the bus. There seem to be two companies that stand out: Andesmar and Chevalier. I purchased the tickets on Andesmar online @ www.andesmar.com There are several services each day and we chose the "Executive" service that leaves B.A. at 7.45 PM and arrives at Mendoza at 9 am or so. Each round trip ticket was 350 pesos or about $116 US at the rate of exchange at the time. Hint: to find the origin point look not for "Buenos Aires" but "Retiro - Buenos Aires". The bus leaves from the main bus terminal near the Retiro train station by Plaza San Martin. Just after the ride starts you get a full fledged safety demo, followed by a game of Bingo. A short while later you are served dinner (choice of chicken, beef or vegan) with beverage of your choice (we went for the red wine). Then it's a movie or two on the flat screen or sleep on the full flat "bed", more or less like an international business class seat. The bus is set so that it does not exceed 50 mph, which is good considering that the roads are ok, but not up to US or Western Europe standards (in my opinion anyway). After dawn you get breakfast and a short time later you are close to downtown Mendoza. We were very satisfied even though it is a long ride; service was cordial and efficient and the accomodations (seats are 2-1 per row) quite adequate. Anyway an option to consider - much cheaper than the plane and hey, you save one night's hotel bill!

Panam-- great first post, and welcome to FT!! I think that the bus is a great option, especially if you can also spend the night and save on the hotel.

Hi - We are planning a trip to Medoza and would like to stay at a vineyard for 2 nights. Do you recommend any moderately priced vineyards that we can stay at?

Also,

1) how you suggest that we plan our visits to the various vineyards?
2) We would like to go horseback riding/hiking - any suggestions how to plan this?

Vineyards that have on site accomodations are not the norm in Mendoza... you have various options that are in wine country per-se but that are not on Bodega property. Not that there are no vineyards that offer this but they tend to be in the high end range.

For reasonable rates, I would suggest you consider Postales del Plata. Check them out at:

www.postalesdelplata.com

SanDiego1K did the Mendoza-Santiago bus trip and wrote it up the SAm forum. It included some good infor on which bus line to use. She says the bus trip is pleasant and worth the journey. I don't have the link, but do a search on SanDiego1K and it should pop up.

Would someone kindly post a link to the above mentioned bus trip report.

I tried to find it using "Search" but I failed miserably.

Also, thank you very much to everyone who has contributed information to this thread. It is very useful and most interesting.

For information on bus travel from Mendoza to Santiago, I also suggest you check out TripAdvisor, great information over on those boards.

Would someone kindly post a link to the above mentioned bus trip report.

I tried to find it using "Search" but I failed miserably.

Also, thank you very much to everyone who has contributed information to this thread. It is very useful and most interesting.
It's in this very thread, post #49:

Mendoza to Santiago by bus (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6863987&postcount=49)

Siempre Viajando-- I havent been to Zuccardi for a while now... do they have a walk in restaurant or do you have to make reservations? Zuccardi makes great wines... and if you can, try the Alma 4 Sparkling wines made by Sebastian Zuccardi, they are very very good. Plus, for lovers of sparkling red wine, make sure to try the sparkling Bonarda and Syrah.

I know it's been a while since you asked this but here it goes: we were at Familia Zuccardi in April. We took one of the local agent tours with another couple from New Zealand. The deal included a visit to the Don Bosco school and winery (with an olive oil plantation to boot), where we met a very friendly host. Then on to Zuccardi for the tour and later lunch. I believe you can also call in and reserve a table. The service there was relaxed and efficient. The couple from NZ was overwhelmed by the amount of food offered and we all enjoyed the wine pairings. I will not comment on the quality as I am no expert, but I can say I enjoyed the meal and the whole tour. All this (including pick up and drop off at our hotel) for the equivalent of $30 US each!

I know it's been a while since you asked this but here it goes: we were at Familia Zuccardi in April. We took one of the local agent tours with another couple from New Zealand. The deal included a visit to the Don Bosco school and winery (with an olive oil plantation to boot), where we met a very friendly host. Then on to Zuccardi for the tour and later lunch. I believe you can also call in and reserve a table. The service there was relaxed and efficient. The couple from NZ was overwhelmed by the amount of food offered and we all enjoyed the wine pairings. I will not comment on the quality as I am no expert, but I can say I enjoyed the meal and the whole tour. All this (including pick up and drop off at our hotel) for the equivalent of $30 US each!

Panam Clipper:

Thanks for your report!^ How did you arrange this tour? Do you have a link, phone number etc.?
I am planning 3 days/2 nights in Mendoza ... after reading Gaucho's comments, I probably staying away from renting a car and making/joining a tour.
Also thanks to Gaucho running this thread^

I know it's been a while since you asked this but here it goes: we were at Familia Zuccardi in April. We took one of the local agent tours with another couple from New Zealand. The deal included a visit to the Don Bosco school and winery (with an olive oil plantation to boot), where we met a very friendly host. Then on to Zuccardi for the tour and later lunch. I believe you can also call in and reserve a table. The service there was relaxed and efficient. The couple from NZ was overwhelmed by the amount of food offered and we all enjoyed the wine pairings. I will not comment on the quality as I am no expert, but I can say I enjoyed the meal and the whole tour. All this (including pick up and drop off at our hotel) for the equivalent of $30 US each!

PanamClipper-- many thanks for the great report! ^

Last time I got some advice that probably won't work for me so I'm posing my questions again in the hopes that someone may have some more concrete information. Basically I have two questions:

1) Does anyone have some recommendations on arranging private or semi-private wine tours out of Mendoza? I'd probably be looking for a full day tour on a Saturday in early February.

2A) I also need to figure out how to get from Mendoza to Santiago (with considerable baggage) on the following Sunday to catch an 11 pm flight to the United States. I had planned to hire a driver, but some of the earlier responses were this was prohibitive. There are two of us traveling -- if we fly the airfare appears to be running somewhere around $450 to $600. Also LAN has two flights on the day in question -- one early in the morning; the other arriving at 8:15 pm, which seems to be cutting things close.

2B) If we do drive, when should we have the driver leave to safely get to Santiago by around 8:30 pm?

2C) Is the bus a viable option? How comfortable is it -- and, how long does it take?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

prh-- where are you staying? Do you have access to a concierge service at your hotel? If so, I suggest you have them arrange for a car & driver and have the vehicle take you around Mendoza to your various appointments. Please note that you will have to book/make appointments. Walk in visits are not the norm.

If you are getting high airfares and there are two of you... then maybe the option of hiring a small van for both of you may not be such a bad option. Again, I would try to get a concierge to shop around for fares for you.

The Bus is a very viable option... you should be able to get a premium bus service that should be quite nice. This will be the most cost effective solution as a excess bags on the bus service will be very inexpensive.

2A) You need to do some cost/benefit research and calculations here.

Assuming you have already paid the $100 Chile reciprocity fee for your passports and are not flying Lan out of SCL and don't plan on flying them for a while...

FYI, there are $70 base fare "RT" MDZ-SCL tickets (read: "throwaway") for approx.$92 all in. The problem will be luggage:

Tourist Class 20 kilograms
Excess baggage will be charged as follows:

- For every kilogram of excess baggage, the passenger will be charged one percent of the highest published LAN oneway Tourist Class fare for the route in question.

So, being creative and assuming the change fee is not prohibitive, how about trying to add on a one-way LAN segment, MDZ-SCL, to your current return segment out of SCL and interline your bags to your final destination? If you do this, the LAN baggage rules then change to:

Passing thorugh North America: When my origin or destination it is NOT Miami, Los Angeles or New York


* Two pieces of luggage are permitted.
* Each piece of luggage must be 23 kilograms or less.
* The height + width + breadth of each piece must not exceed 158 cms.


Excess baggage is defined as the following:

- An extra piece in addition to the two permitted.
- Any piece exceeding the permitted dimensions.
- Any piece weighing over 23 kilograms and less than 32 kilograms will be charged with US$ 25.
- Any piece weighing over 23 kilograms will be charged according to the following:

* US$ 150 per each excess.

2C) If you decide on the bus, the most convenient for an ultimate transfer to SCL would be to take the bus with the Chilean company Turbus from Mendoza to the Terminal Alameda in Santiago (the main Turbus and Pullman Bus terminal). After receiving your bags, you can then stroll over to the airport transfer bus kiosk and purchase your pasaje for the hourly bus that leaves from the platform in front of that kiosk (1.800 pesos). They will check your bags below like on any intercity bus in Chile and Argentina. There is also an official taxi stand area if you exit the terminal to the left of the Turbus airport transfer kiosk. If you have sufficient hours to burn, there is also a bag check storage facility inside the terminal and the Metro station Universidad de Santiago is connected to Terminal Alameda on the bottom level.

WARNING (especially for the bus terminal in Mendoza but applicable to all bus terminals in this part of South America): WATCH YOU LUGGAGE, HANDBAGS AND POCKETS!! You can relax though once you have you luggage checked into the bus hold.

Observation: In Argentina, the person loading the bags in the hold is looking for a small tip. In Chile, this is not done. The bus attendant though always publicly asks for a small tip on the route between these two cities.

Replying to the two replies above, first thanks. Now let me try to respond to some of the questions and comments above:

1) We're staying at the Hyatt -- I've just contacted the concierge, who has asked me which wineries we want to go to -- suggestions? I also asked about the "transfer" to Santiago.

2) My flight situation is this -- we're on a frequent flyer ticket on AA from the US to Santiago and back. I've also got a LAN South American Airpass which will take us from Santiago to Punta Arenas, up to Iquazu, down to BA, and over to Mendoza. When I booked the Airpass, I had thought the drive over the Andes would be a neat way to end the trip and figured that it wouldn't break the bank. When I checked lan.com for the one-way flight from MDZ-SCL, it was quoting $305. It seems if I modify my Airpass the cost would go down about $80. BUT, that still leaves us with the dilemma of getting to SCL around noon (with bags in hand) or around 8:15 in the evening which seems a little too close for comfort.

Interestingly, I just checked lan.com, if we book a roundtrip ticket from MDZ to SCL and back, the roundtrip ticket is $70! Can we safely do that and throw away the return??????

Interestingly, I just checked lan.com, if we book a roundtrip ticket from MDZ to SCL and back, the roundtrip ticket is $70! Can we safely do that and throw away the return??????Ssssshhhhhhhh! Don't ask, don't tell. Its $92 with taxes and other charges.

Still leaves the checked baggage cost issue. Do you only have 20k each?

There is also a left luggage facility at SCL.

http://www.aeropuertosantiago.cl/contenidos/navTpl.php?c=20040708153345&s=20040708153249

The bus AFAIK will not have any extra luggage fees assuming you are traveling like a tourist.

I will try to find the name of the agency where we made the arangements. I can meantime give you the name and number of the guide we had that day: Liliana N. Rodriguez Tel (0261) 4390864 and her cell (0261) 578605. I am sure that you can easily arrange the winery tours once you arrive in Mendoza. Familia Zuccardi was the one we really enjoyed . Heard great things about bodega Tapiz but did not make it - will have to do it next time. You should also consider the day tour to "La Cordillera" unless you plan to cross the Andes by surface to go to Chile.

Let me share my recent experience getting to Mendoza from Buenos Aires. Instead of the plane, my wife and I decided to try the bus. There seem to be two companies that stand out: Andesmar and Chevalier. I purchased the tickets on Andesmar online @ www.andesmar.com There are several services each day and we chose the "Executive" service that leaves B.A. at 7.45 PM and arrives at Mendoza at 9 am or so. Each round trip ticket was 350 pesos or about $116 US at the rate of exchange at the time. Hint: to find the origin point look not for "Buenos Aires" but "Retiro - Buenos Aires". The bus leaves from the main bus terminal near the Retiro train station by Plaza San Martin. Just after the ride starts you get a full fledged safety demo, followed by a game of Bingo. A short while later you are served dinner (choice of chicken, beef or vegan) with beverage of your choice (we went for the red wine). Then it's a movie or two on the flat screen or sleep on the full flat "bed", more or less like an international business class seat. The bus is set so that it does not exceed 50 mph, which is good considering that the roads are ok, but not up to US or Western Europe standards (in my opinion anyway). After dawn you get breakfast and a short time later you are close to downtown Mendoza. We were very satisfied even though it is a long ride; service was cordial and efficient and the accomodations (seats are 2-1 per row) quite adequate. Anyway an option to consider - much cheaper than the plane and hey, you save one night's hotel bill!
Your post has inspired me to make plans to travel between BsAs and Mendoza this way!

I do have a couple of questions. I went through a "trial" booking online on andesmar.com (haven't actually booked yet) of a first-class itinerary just to familiarize myself with what's available, and looked at the seat maps. I doubt that there is the equivalent of seatguru.com for these buses, so I wondered if you had any recommendations for seats that are particularly good or bad. The seat maps show a lower and upper floor; piso inferior has seats 1 - 6, and piso superior has seats 7 - 26, so it appears that the "lower floor" is actually just the front of the bus, and then I'm guessing that there are a few steps up to the rear of the bus, where the majority of seats are. Since I'll be traveling alone on the bus, I'll probably pick one of the single seats (on the right side), but if you can think of any particularly desirable or undesirable places to sit on the bus, please let me know.

Also, how was the food? Was it at least of airplane quality and quantity? ;)

I plan to take an overnight bus, stay one night at a hotel in Mendoza, then take another overnight bus back.

I will try to find the name of the agency where we made the arangements. I can meantime give you the name and number of the guide we had that day: Liliana N. Rodriguez Tel (0261) 4390864 and her cell (0261) 578605. I am sure that you can easily arrange the winery tours once you arrive in Mendoza. Familia Zuccardi was the one we really enjoyed . Heard great things about bodega Tapiz but did not make it - will have to do it next time. You should also consider the day tour to "La Cordillera" unless you plan to cross the Andes by surface to go to Chile.

Panam Clipper:

Thanks! I guess that I can arrange everything when I am at MDZ. I'll keep Liliana's phone numbers.
Thanks again.

Your post has inspired me to make plans to travel between BsAs and Mendoza this way!

I do have a couple of questions. I went through a "trial" booking online on andesmar.com (haven't actually booked yet) of a first-class itinerary just to familiarize myself with what's available, and looked at the seat maps. I doubt that there is the equivalent of seatguru.com for these buses, so I wondered if you had any recommendations for seats that are particularly good or bad. The seat maps show a lower and upper floor; piso inferior has seats 1 - 6, and piso superior has seats 7 - 26, so it appears that the "lower floor" is actually just the front of the bus, and then I'm guessing that there are a few steps up to the rear of the bus, where the majority of seats are. Since I'll be traveling alone on the bus, I'll probably pick one of the single seats (on the right side), but if you can think of any particularly desirable or undesirable places to sit on the bus, please let me know.

Also, how was the food? Was it at least of airplane quality and quantity? ;)

I plan to take an overnight bus, stay one night at a hotel in Mendoza, then take another overnight bus back.

Wow! I do hope you have a similarly pleasant experience. First off - I just noticed that Andesmar has fine tuned their booking system a bit and now the origin/destination listing is more logical showing BUENOS AIRES RETIRO TERMINAL as an option. Yes, if you are alone you will want one of the single seats on the right. We chose seats on the upper level because we thought we might like the view and also because the toilet is at the front of the lower level. If you get the front row you'll have the best view of course and there are curtains to keep the light out if you choose to do that. Other than that there really is no big difference. It really is a top and bottom arrangement, not just front and back.
Food was plentiful - you can choose your entree when you make your booking (chicken, beef or vegetarian). How does it compare with airline food - perhaps a bit better than average coach on an international flight, depends on the airline. I did not regret not taking any extra snacks.
Another poster recommended caution at the bus terminals and I agree that you must be watchful at both ends. Do not lose sight of your stuff until you deliver it to the bus people and you get a bag tag. Finally make sure you get on the right bus because there are two or three leaving within 30 minutes of each other - and this is Andesmar alone to Mendoza! Retiro is a VERY busy terminal as you will see but quite manageable if you allow enough time.

I do urge you to consider staying more than just one night. In addition to a tour of the wineries you might want to go on a 'regular' tour to the Andes (paseo Cordillera) and even spend another day just walking around the city. Parque General San Martin as well as the Municipal Market in the middle of the city are worth while checking. A shame to go that far and not spending a little more time.

Panam Clipper:

Thanks! I guess that I can arrange everything when I am at MDZ. I'll keep Liliana's phone numbers.
Thanks again.

Full (?) disclosure. As I recall she was not fluent in English, I did the translating during the tour for the other tourists.
I suspect that you will end up paying more if the arrangements are made through the concierge at the hotel than if you do it directly with a travel agent. I still don't remember the name of the one we used but it was on Rivadavia street between España and 9 de Julio.

1) We're staying at the Hyatt -- I've just contacted the concierge, who has asked me which wineries we want to go to -- suggestions? I also asked about the "transfer" to Santiago.


If you are staying at the Hyatt, I dont see you paying more than if you book yourself, perhaps with the exception on the transportation. If you are charged for a winery visit, the price will not vary if you have the concierge book it for you.

I dont know what your interests in terms of wines are (styles, etc.), but IMHO some names that you need to consider visiting are:

a) Bodega Benegas
b) Banfi - Cinco Tierras
c) Achaval Ferrer
d) Bodega La Azul
e) Clos de los Siete
f) Andeluna Cellars
g) Rutini La Rural

....I do urge you to consider staying more than just one night. In addition to a tour of the wineries you might want to go on a 'regular' tour to the Andes (paseo Cordillera) and even spend another day just walking around the city. Parque General San Martin as well as the Municipal Market in the middle of the city are worth while checking. A shame to go that far and not spending a little more time.
Thanks for your prompt and detailed response.

I'm just going to have two days and one night in Mendoza (time constraints on my overall trip). The first day I'm joining some others on a winery tour with lunch included, then dinner with the same people. The second day I'll probably walk around the town or something like that.

This will be my third trip to Argentina. Each time I've spent time in BsAs and have also done some side trips and/or day trips outside the city. First year I spent two days and nights at Iguazu at the end of my trip. Second year I did day trips to Tigre, an estancia, and Colonia, Uruguay (on three different days, of course). I liked them all, especially Iguazu. If I like Mendoza, I'll go back again some time in the future.

By the way, what do they serve for breakfast on the bus? ;) (I'm still talking about the first-class bus, of course!)

Breakfast was nothing fancy: coffee or tea and some biscuits with jelly. Oh, and a fresh newspaper.
Now I have a question for you: I have often considered taking a day tour to one of the estancias or even spending a night. So which one did you go to and were you pleased with the experience?

Hello!
Does anyone know where I can buy Alma 4 Bondarda in the states? Is there a website from which I can order it?
Thanks!

There is:
http://corkd.com/wine/view/26570-Alma_4_Bonarda_Sparling_Wine

Salud!

Panam Clipper:

Thanks for your report!^ How did you arrange this tour? Do you have a link, phone number etc.?
I am planning 3 days/2 nights in Mendoza ... after reading Gaucho's comments, I probably staying away from renting a car and making/joining a tour.
Also thanks to Gaucho running this thread^

My wife found the card we were looking for. The young lady who helped us so much is Veronica Oliver from Orbe Travel. The address of the agency is Rivadavia 151 Tel 0261 429 2882 and 429 6930. e-mail receptivo@orbetravel.com.ar
Veronica is a delightful person and we would definitely look her up if we went back to Mendoza.

There is:
http://corkd.com/wine/view/26570-Alma_4_Bonarda_Sparling_Wine

Salud!

Please note the above link will ultimatetly lead you to a wine search engine, and unless Im using it incorrectly, it seems like someone has listed this wine to rate it, but I cant seem to locate US based merchants that are offering it.

In my talks with the Zuccardi Family, they have explained that they are looking to start exporting this wine to the States, but I still dont have all the details. I will post any updates as I receive them.

Further in depth searches for Alma 4 using both Wine Zap and Wine Searcher have all drawn blanks.

Has anyone used a wine tour company known as The Grapevine? If so, I'd appreciate a review.

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x320)

Ive heard good reviews about them. It may be a good idea to tell them what sort of visits you are expecting.

Please note the above link will ultimatetly lead you to a wine search engine, and unless Im using it incorrectly, it seems like someone has listed this wine to rate it, but I cant seem to locate US based merchants that are offering it.

In my talks with the Zuccardi Family, they have explained that they are looking to start exporting this wine to the States, but I still dont have all the details. I will post any updates as I receive them.

Yuu are right, of course. I saw the link and offered it as a resourse without first checking it. Sorry.:(

http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/

They are located approximately 1.5 blocks from the Park Hyatt. In May, they put together a four property tour for us. Cost of the car (remis) and driver was approximately $US60. This is comparable to renting and self-getting lost. Some properties had tasting fee and there was a charge for the outstanding five course lunch served with 5 flights (actually more, since the staff got into adding to our glasses).

They are really great to deal with and they do not charge for the service. The conceirge at Park Hyatt can put together something similar, but, frankly, the people at Vines are so pleasant and efficient that I will unequivalently use them in the future.

For English speakers, fluent English is spoken by the staff. Not true of our driver, but he was great anyway and he and I chatted the entire day. A detailed intinerary was provided. They do need approximately 24 hours to book a tour.

Our visits:

http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/travel_guide/tasting_ldc_achaval.php
http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/travel_guide/tasting_ldc_catena.php
http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/travel_guide/tasting_ldc_luigi.php
http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/travel_guide/tasting_ldc_ruca.php

This tour took us from 0900-1830. It is in an area about 45 minutes from of Mendoza. (Lujan de Cuyo)

An additional restaurant note: We really like Francesco, 1 block from the Hyatt. It is owned by Family Zuccardi.

OpusHomes-- Did you get a chance to select what wines you were going to be served at these visits or was it a standard program decided by the tour operator and winery? Did you get a list of what you were going to taste at each bodega as part of your itinerary materials? Thanks.

Gaucho

Our itinerary did not, as I recall, list what we would be tasting. When we booked, I specifically asked for a tasting only series of visits. Our rationale was that we have toured in Caves or wineries in France, Napa/Sonoma, locally as well as other obscure places many times. Time seemed to be constrained and we wanted to maximize the tasting experience. In the end, we actually toured one of the properties and saw portions of the others. Some of the tasting was set by the wineries and others were much more free form. Only the last winery had a required flight (actually a choice of a number of programs at varying prices). Other than lunch this was the only one that charged for the tastings. At three of the wineries, they dragged out a number of high end products seemingly not normally sampled.

Other than the required pre-booking, the day reminded us of a normal day in the Willamette/Yamhill Valleys here in Oregon. Low key, sample things off the "list", relaxed and friendly. Reminiscent of Napa of 30 years ago. Perhaps, in one instance, it helped to have met the owner of one of the properties at a wine tasting hosted by The Vines the evening prior. The properties themselves seemed well-tended, but not commercial with the exception of the impressive (for the most part) main house, winery-itself building.

BTW: We tasted mostly Malbecs with some Syrahs and a few blends. Some lesser whites were also sampled. We have become great fans of Argentinian Malbecs. Argentina IMHO is better than Chile in general in terms of wine quality and craft. Perhaps, it is because the wines we sampled tended to be more crafted that the more mass-produced Chileans.

Opushomes-- many thanks for taking time to write the detailed reply. I asked this because one of the drawbacks of some of these booking agencies is that one normally doesnt get the chance to select/pick what you will taste at each bodega... which may be an issue for the more serious wine aficionado. Of course, to know what you want to taste means you need to either know the wineries & the region you are touring, or else you must have done your homework on the producers and what they have in their portfolio, etc. This is something that 95% of all folks dont bother with, and from your report it seems that things worked out well for you. Glad to hear this.

Im of course partial on the right side vs. the wrong side :p of the Andes debate.... but Im glad you enjoy the wines of Argentina... ^ ^

One other thing.... Argentina is not only Malbec. You need to look at tasting blends (Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot) and also some less traditional varieties like Sangiovese or Bonarda.

Also, if you are a fan of Sparkling wines... you need to look into the higher-end methode champenoise wines made in Mendoza.

One other thing.... Argentina is not only Malbec. You need to look at tasting blends (Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot) and also some less traditional varieties like Sangiovese or Bonarda.

Also, if you are a fan of Sparkling wines... you need to look into the higher-end methode champenoise wines made in Mendoza.

Malbecs, Sangioveses......I can hardly wait!

This is an excellent forum, thank you very much for the information.

Oh.... and I forgot to mention dessert wines.... :D ^

.....In my talks with the Zuccardi Family, they have explained that they are looking to start exporting this wine to the States, but I still dont have all the details. I will post any updates as I receive them.

Gaucho100K:

I am just back from Canada and I have seen Zuccardi Family wine in Toronto (in a wine shop next to this famous market place on Front/Market)

BTW, FMH1964 is a wine dealer in Toronto

Look here:

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=696776

Again, thanks for running this thread ..^

USAFAN-- thanks for the link... but Im still not finding the Alma 4. The Santa Julia line of wines is generally available, but some of the higher end wines line Zeta and Alma 4 are much harder to find.

My wife found the card we were looking for. The young lady who helped us so much is Veronica Oliver from Orbe Travel. The address of the agency is Rivadavia 151 Tel 0261 429 2882 and 429 6930. e-mail receptivo@orbetravel.com.ar
Veronica is a delightful person and we would definitely look her up if we went back to Mendoza.

Panam Clipper:
Thanks a lot ... great, I'll check it out

And thanks to Gaucho100K ... this is such a great thread!

And thanks to Gaucho100K ... this is such a great thread!

My pleasure... ^

First visit here, and I'm ashamed to say I didn't even know a separate Mendoza forum has existed for over a year. Oh well, that's what running a business and going to law school will do to a person.

Mendoza is definitely "on my list". Being a bit of a wine nut, the only thing I can add here is personal recommendations on some of the wines that, for the most part, Alex has recommended (and I have purchased blind, later being absolutely astounded by their quality). IMO, the Mendoza region is producing some absolutely top shelf world class wines.

First off, I'm going to assume that the "cult" Malbec that was discussed a few pages back is "Cobos", a wine that is probably the best Malbec I've ever had. Once a "bargain" at $60 for the 2002 vintage, the Marchiori Vineyard is now in the neighborhood of $150 USD, as Alex mentioned. If compared to a Chateau Margaux or Haut Brion, it's still a bargain pricewise, but it has gone beyond my $100 per bottle price limit. If you're so inclined, do invest in a bottle of this...it is a truly memorable expression of the Malbec varietal.

At the mid-higher end of the market, the Familia Zuccardi Zeta is also outstanding, a Bonarda-Tempranillo blend. Opening a 2002 vintage bottle a few months back, I realized that this wine is still not yet ready to drink without some serious decanting tme, taking probably 2+ hours to open up. It is truly "l'enfant terrible" once it opens up, though...a real fruit explosion. I haven't seen much other than Zuccardi's "Q" Tempranillo in the states, but I can definitely recommend Alex as a source for some of these wines that are difficult, if not impossible to get in the U.S. I have not yet had anything from Catena Zapata, a situation I intend to remedy in a few weeks while visiting with Alex in EZE with the rest of the Cow Do III bunch.

I also enjoy Alta Vista Alto, Cheval Des Andes, Carlos Pulenta's Vistalba Corte A, Corte B and almost anything from Benegas Lynch; these are long lived, serious blended as well as single vineyard/varietal wines. I'm finding that a lot of the top end Mendoza Malbecs and blends are so well structured that opening them before they hit the age of 5 or 6 is almost a waste unless one has the proper time to decant in order to open the wine up.

Speaking of the "mid-range", I've been a big fan of Susana Balbo (I'd avoid her "Crianza" line of wines, however), and to a lesser extent, Luigi Bosca (around $25-28 USD). Achaval Ferrer's Quimera is a great 5 varietal blend that is more in the $35-$40 USD range. The Wine Club (L.A., Bay Area, online) has the "new" 2005 Terrazas Reserve Malbec at $13.99 a bottle, a definite value. Another really nice bottle is Mora Negra, a Bonarda-Malbec blend that several FTers enjoyed en masse at last year's Cow Do II...I think we ran La Brigada in EZE out of it. Haven't seen it in the States, but keep in mind that Alex is a great source for many hard to find Argentinian wines. There are some terrific "checkable" wine carriers obtainable from Alex's shop for those who intend to return to the U.S. with their bounty, and shipping is also an option (although somewhat spendy).

Andeluna also has a limited bottling of really nice Cabernet Franc floating around in the states; like Benegas Lynch, the spread ever so thin Michel Rolland is their consulting winemaker. Love or hate his "new world" style and French oak, I've yet to have a bad bottle where he's involved. For sparkling, I really like the Baron B that you can get through Alex; of the three styles available, the Brut Rose is a personal favorite, with 5% Mallbec added to give it a beautiful peach-like color and some chutzpah. Also a geat value.

For websites, also try wineanthology.com (New Jersey) and SouthernHemisphere Wines (google for the URL) for some decent selections of middle range AR Malbecs and blends available in the U.S. Most wine shops around SEA are really sparse when it comes to a decent selection of Mendoza wines, so I rely on Alex and a few nationwide sites to filll slots in the cellar.

Sigh....Mendoza...yes. Someday, when there's proper time to savor it. Until then, to the rest of you who have been, I'm supremely jealous. I hope some of you find these wine recommendation helpful, keeping in mind that, of course, Alex is the Mendoza wine guide to defer to.

Fred-- First of all, congratulations on summing up a couple of very important points on Mendoza and its wines, I could not have done so any better than you just did... ^

Secondly, I thank you kindly for your positive remarks about my wine related talents, but Im afraid you're overly generous. You know your stuff about wine, and this makes it very easy for me to help you in recommending various options for your cellar. I guess that I have also been lucky in being able to interpret your tastes based on our many conversations about wine, and to some extent we have been successful in "calibrating" our tastes. This is the single most important thing that a wine aficionado needs to do with any merchant that he/she regularly buys from. The same applies to any wine critic that one would like to follow... if you dont calibrate the scorings to your palate, any rating is meaningless.

Just to add to your great list of names of labels & producers, I would add the following for FTers to consider:

- Bodega Escorihuela Gascon
Most of their low end stuff gets to the States, but their gems are domestic market only. Apart from some great reds in various price points, they also make a great Sauvignon Blanc and a Viognier. In the medium & up price categories, watch out for the Pequenias Producciones line, and also the flagship Miguel Escorihuela Gascon Malbec (in the high end segment).

- Bodega Riglos
A Banking/Insurance related family has now gone into making wines, purchasing some excellent vineyards and hiring Paul Hobbs as their consultant. Results are, no surprise here, outstanding... their Riglos Malbec and Riglos Gran Corte are two limited edition monsters that need a little time in the cellar but will be absolute gems once they are at their prime. The Malbec is more in the QPR range, and while the Gran Corte is in the premium price segment, it will give many higher end Cali cabs quite a run (and a scare?) for their $$$.

- Rutini La Rural
Their portfolio suffers from something similar to what goes on for Escorihuela... their best known wines in the USA are very much every day. The Trumpeter line is probably the best known (and have been served in the cabins of AA and UA before - maybe still?). For Rutini, look out for the limited edition Antologia line of blends, these are the components that go into the icon Felipe Rutini (the flagship wine of this house). Also, their Rutini Coleccion line offers an ample range of varieties from the traditional Malbec to a nice Syrah, a meaty Cabernet and a few whites including a Gewurztraminer.

- Bodega Noemia
Wines from Patagonia... yes, from the land of fly fishing, big game hunting, mountains & glaciers come these outstanding wines. Check out the second labels J. Alberto and A. Lisa, and if you are up for a second mortgage then go for the cult Noemia. Noemia is owned by the Marone Cinzano family (Italian Royalty, owners of Argiano in Tuscany), and the wines are made by the young winemaker Hans Vinding Diers. These Patagonian style wines will be a real eye opener for those that know their Mendoza Malbecs well.

- Bodega Chacra
Another Patagonia winery, but not for the faint hearted as their wines are rare and pricey. With the exception of the young and recently launched Chacra Barda, their Chacra 55 and Chacra 32 are old-vine Pinot Noirs with a hefty price tag and the pedigree & wine-making expertise to match. Chacra wines are also made by Hans Vinding, and is also a producer in Italian Ownership - the Incisa della Rocceta family that brings you the famous Sassicaia.

Just got back from Mendoza a week ago and it was the highlight of our Peru and Argentina trip. A few recommendations that I wanted to share.
1) Stay at Club Tapiz and/or Park Hyatt. We stayed at the Park Hyatt, which was very nice. We sent a fax to the Mr. Carl Emberson, GM of Hyatt requesting an upgrade and not only did he upgrade us, but he came personally to say hello when we checked in. He also sent us a bottle of champagne to our room. What a way to start our trip! He is really nice and down to earth. We stayed at Club Tapiz, which took a totally different feel. There are only 7 rooms here and it is very personable. Every night they had tasting events and we got to pick the wines we wanted to taste, plus it we went through 2~3 glasses each, so definitely more then a tasting. The restaurant is superb as well. BTW: It was $150 US a night at Club Tapiz.

2) Go with Vines of Mendoza to reserve your wine tastings. Not only, is their service complimentary, but they got out of their way to create an experience for you. Ask for Carolina Escudero - She is great and plus her team speaks English. Also, to reserve the car for the day it was about $200 ARG.

3) Places I loved
a) Have lunch at Zuccardi, though I would skip the wine tour
b) ANDELUNA - We were scheduled for an hour, but ended up staying for 2. I forget the young lady's name, but she was great and served us several Reserves that were not part of the flight.
c) Lunch and wine tour at SALENTEIN
d) PULENTA ESTATE

Great reviews, Radical, thanks for sharing the information.

Zuccardi is indeed a great place for Lunch. For a better experience with the wine tasting/tour, you need to book a premium tasting in advance, and specify you wish to taste the high end wines made by the Bodega. This will cost extra, but may be worth it for those that are serious wine aficionados.

Forgot to add... some other lodging options similar to Club Tapiz are:

- Lares de Chacras
- Postales del Plata
- Finca Adalgisa

Let me share my recent experience getting to Mendoza from Buenos Aires. Instead of the plane, my wife and I decided to try the bus. There seem to be two companies that stand out: Andesmar and Chevalier. I purchased the tickets on Andesmar online @ www.andesmar.com There are several services each day and we chose the "Executive" service that leaves B.A. at 7.45 PM and arrives at Mendoza at 9 am or so. Each round trip ticket was 350 pesos or about $116 US at the rate of exchange at the time. Hint: to find the origin point look not for "Buenos Aires" but "Retiro - Buenos Aires". The bus leaves from the main bus terminal near the Retiro train station by Plaza San Martin. Just after the ride starts you get a full fledged safety demo, followed by a game of Bingo. A short while later you are served dinner (choice of chicken, beef or vegan) with beverage of your choice (we went for the red wine). Then it's a movie or two on the flat screen or sleep on the full flat "bed", more or less like an international business class seat. The bus is set so that it does not exceed 50 mph, which is good considering that the roads are ok, but not up to US or Western Europe standards (in my opinion anyway). After dawn you get breakfast and a short time later you are close to downtown Mendoza. We were very satisfied even though it is a long ride; service was cordial and efficient and the accomodations (seats are 2-1 per row) quite adequate. Anyway an option to consider - much cheaper than the plane and hey, you save one night's hotel bill!
I went ahead and booked the round-trip BsAs-Mendoza bus trip online on the Andesmar website (on an all-first-class bus, in both directions) and received a confirmation.

Later I received an e-mail asking me to choose what dinner I want -- beef, chicken, or veg. Any suggestions between the beef and chicken? Or does it matter that much? ;)

It didn't matter too much to me; I chose the beef and did not regret it. Let us know how it goes for you. You can have the chicken or vegetarian on the way back... Also, which estancia did you go to for your day trip and would you recommend it?

It didn't matter too much to me; I chose the beef and did not regret it. Let us know how it goes for you. You can have the chicken or vegetarian on the way back... Also, which estancia did you go to for your day trip and would you recommend it?
Sorry, I forgot to answer this before. It's kind of off-topic for a Mendoza thread, but the name of the estancia is Los Dos Hermanos. Here is their website:

http://www.estancialosdoshermanos.com/index2.html

Sorry, I forgot to answer this before. It's kind of off-topic for a Mendoza thread, but the name of the estancia is Los Dos Hermanos. Here is their website:

http://www.estancialosdoshermanos.com/index2.html

This estancia was highly praised by last years' Cow DO attendees. If you want more info, pm Skye1

Hi All,

A quick trip to MDZ amidst a larger trip. Would appreciate advise on feasibility. There appear to be few maps of the region with clear distances. I'd like to nail this down to let the PH Concierge make appropriate arrangements and hire a car:

I used this map (http://www.ladatco.com/AR-MDZ%20wineries.htm) to approximate some distances.

My focus is on malbecs (particularly hard-to-find in the US) and food.

Day 1:
Arrive from SCL at 10:35am
Spa Treatment at Park Hyatt, check in.
La Rural (Rutini) for Lunch, Tasting, and Tour
1 of the following: Bodegas Lopez/Terrazas de Los Andes/Archaval Ferrer
Escorihuela

Dinner: La Bourgogne (Note: Gaucho100k's objections noted; this seems to be one of the better high-end dining options in the area. Hopefully the service lapses he experienced have improved).

Day 2:
Chandon Argentina
Catena Zapata (Agrelo?)
Familia Ziccardi - Lunch and Tasting (particularly sparking, Zeta, and Alma 4)
Luigi Bosca
Perhaps one of the alternate choices from Day 1, time permitting.

Dinner: 1884 Francis Mallman

Day 3: Early departure & Hepatic detoxification. :)

Thanks in advance

Hi. Are you sure Rutini serves lunch...?

IMO, you are shooting to visit too many places per day. Not that its not doable, but you will be rushed. I would be interested to hear what the PH concierge will say... but, if you arrive to MDZ at 1030, you will be checking in at the Hyatt at 1115, so you probably wont make it to the Spa's reception area until 1140... so your treatment will start at around noon. Say its 1 hour.... its already 1pm. I dont think its realistic to say you will be having lunch at a winery that day. I would suggest you did lunch at the Hyatt and then head out for one visit or maybe two if you push it.

In Mendoza, the last visit in the afternoon usually begins at 4pm so if you will have an elaborate lunch its going to be tight. Seems to me that the only way to make a lunch appointment at a Bodega and ensure you will have two visits that first day is to kill the Spa program.

Since my last (horrible) La Bourgogne experience, Ive been getting better feedback, so I think its worth it to give it the benefit of the doubt. Please be so kind as report back on your experience.

Your day two looks more feasible, I would try to get an early start and do Chandon first thing in the morning, then I would do Catena Zapata, and I would book a late lunch at Zuccardi followed by visit and tasting. This will mean that with a late lunch booking you have more time to do Chandon & Catena properly, and then relax at Zuccardi over a somewhat longer lunch and then stumble into the tasting. Dinner at Mallmann is an excellent choice.

One final note.... while the PH is a good place to stay, I dont recommend it as my first choice because its simply another Park Hyatt. IMO, when visiting Mendoza its best to stay at a less traditional and non-urban setting.... but, maybe you guys can try that the next time around...

Have a great trip!! :D

Thank you very much for your feedback. I cannot tell you how helpful your comments are. I, too, was concerned about the ambition. I may book just one later reservation for day 1 and see what happens.

I planned an early Day 2, and shall follow the direction you proposed.

I shall post a report of La Bourgogne. The BsAs location was a highlight of my last stay, so I'm hoping things have improved as well.

Finally, the Hyatt is compliments of Faster Free Nights. :)

....I shall post a report of La Bourgogne. The BsAs location was a highlight of my last stay, so I'm hoping things have improved as well....

Which restaurant in BsAs you are referring too? Thanks.

Which restaurant in BsAs you are referring too? Thanks.

http://www.alvearpalace.com/v2/restaurants.php?id=1

La Bourgogne seems to have improved their performance as of late... Ive been getting nothing but rave reviews. Its an amazing bargain for lunch.... more expensive for dinner (for EZE standards).

Hi everyone -- first off, thanks to Gaucho100K for starting this terrific thread and thanks to everyone for the great responses. We'll be in Mendoza in a few weeks are have spent quite a long time studying which wineries to go to. Based on this thread, we contacted Vines of Mondoza and they have been terrific so far in terms of responsiveness and setting up our visits. We asked them to put together a 3 day itinerary based on these wineries being preferred:

Archaval Ferrer
Catena Zapata
Terrazas de los Andes
La Azul
La Rural
Familia Zuccardi
Bidegas Benegas
Alta Vista
Monteviejo
Reina Andulena
Salentein
Chandon
Altus *
Carlos Pulenta *
Roca Malen *
Bodega Escoriheula *

The * are places we think we'd like to do lunch. We asked them to arrange 5 wineries per day, but they responded that's too much and suggested 4 per day for a "full day". They have prepared this itinerary and I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions or comments. Is it a good itinerary for wine lovers who are first time visitors to Mendoza? Any modifications you might suggest? I guess if there is any disappointment, it is that there are only 3 visits on Sunday and we do not have lunch at La Borgogne. Thanks so much for any advice anyone has! ^

Sunday Nov 4th (not many wineries open on Sunday)
Lujan region (25km south):
Stop 1: Achaval Ferrer 10am
Maipu region (30 km east of Mendoza):
Stop 2: La Rural 12pm (closes at 1pm that day)
Stop 3: Familia Zuccardi (lunch and tour)

Monday Nov 5th
Uco Valley region (110 km south of Mendoza):
Stop 1: Andeluna 9:30am
Stop 2: Salentein 11am
Stop 3: La Azul 12:30pm
Stop 4: Altus restaurant "La Tupiña" lunch and Tasting 2pm

Tuesday Nov 6th
Lujan region:
Stop 1: Catena Zapata 9:30am
Stop 2: Chandon 11am
Stop 3: Ruca Malen 1pm
Stop 4: Alta Vista or Terrazas de los Andes 3pm

http://www.alvearpalace.com/v2/restaurants.php?id=1

I know this place in BA ... had several times "business lunch" there. However, I guess, this has nothing to do with La Bourgogne in Mendoza!?!

La Bourgogne in BA also has a very small gourmet shop with great food ...

Hi... thanks for the kind words.

IMO, even 4 bodegas per day is not doable. Firstly because transit times between bodegas is longer than you think... Mendoza is not like Napa Valley or Bordeaux, its not unusual to have 20 or more minute drives from one place to another. Secondly, for you to make all your appointments, you will be rushing your visits. Unless you only do tastings and dont visit the facilities, visits will take at least 90 minutes.

IMHO, if you are really wine folks, then take your time, relax and do 3 bodegas in one "full" day. Just my two cents.

I know this place in BA ... had several times "business lunch" there. However, I guess, this has nothing to do with La Bourgogne in Mendoza!?!

La Bourgogne in BA also has a very small gourmet shop with great food ...

La Bourgogne has a "branch" in Mendoza... its the same restaurant run by the same head chef, who has sent one of his right hand men down to Mendoza to run the Mendoza branch.

Ive had variable experiences with LB in Mendoza... my last two visits were a catastrophe. However, Ive heard a couple of positive recent reviews so I guess Im sort of on the fence about LB Mendoza. For the record, Im not a huge fan of LB here in Buenos Aires, as I dont think the quality offered justifies the prices (for dinner), alas... it is still a good meal (and the lunch menu is actually a very good deal).

La Bourgogne has a "branch" in Mendoza... its the same restaurant run by the same head chef, who has sent one of his right hand men down to Mendoza to run the Mendoza branch....



Gaucho100K:

Thanks ... I was not aware that both have the same head chef.

I will be in Mendoza and wanted to go one night to Francis Mallman .... or shall I go to La Bourgogne? I am OK with any good kitchen, however, Mrs. USAFAN is *not* a big fan of "complicated French cuisine", any grilled beef or fish would be better.

Thanks again.

Let me suggest another restaurant in the city center, near the Meracado Central. It's La Marchigiana (Patricias Mendocinas 1550). You may not find it in many travel guides but the locals will surely know about it. I believe that Mrs USAFAN would like it and I am certain that you will smile when you see the bill. The place was packed by the time we finished lunch one day at about 2 pm.

Mallman was a wonderful experience a few weeks ago. It feels very private and intimate. I'd strongly recommend it. I had hoped to go to LB, but unfortunately, I was delayed a day and wasn't able to make it. It would be great to hear recent experienced from folks who have been to both.

Hi... thanks for the kind words.

IMO, even 4 bodegas per day is not doable. Firstly because transit times between bodegas is longer than you think... Mendoza is not like Napa Valley or Bordeaux, its not unusual to have 20 or more minute drives from one place to another. Secondly, for you to make all your appointments, you will be rushing your visits. Unless you only do tastings and dont visit the facilities, visits will take at least 90 minutes.

IMHO, if you are really wine folks, then take your time, relax and do 3 bodegas in one "full" day. Just my two cents.

Thanks for the reply. So if we leave the Sunday itinerary as is and cut out one bodega from Monday and Tuesday (so we go to 3 per day), do you think we have a nice selection of wineries made? Also, which one would you consider eliminating on Monday and Tuesday? Thank you!

One other question: Does anyone know if La Borgogne and/or 1884 are open for dinner Sundays and/or Mondays? And, how far are these two restaurants from the Park Hyatt by car - 15 minutes? Thank you!

Gaucho100K:

Thanks ... I was not aware that both have the same head chef.

I will be in Mendoza and wanted to go one night to Francis Mallman .... or shall I go to La Bourgogne? I am OK with any good kitchen, however, Mrs. USAFAN is *not* a big fan of "complicated French cuisine", any grilled beef or fish would be better.

Thanks again.

Given the above comment on the preferences of your wife, then I strongly suggest Francis Mallmann´s restaurant over LB.

Thanks for the reply. So if we leave the Sunday itinerary as is and cut out one bodega from Monday and Tuesday (so we go to 3 per day), do you think we have a nice selection of wineries made? Also, which one would you consider eliminating on Monday and Tuesday? Thank you!

One other question: Does anyone know if La Borgogne and/or 1884 are open for dinner Sundays and/or Mondays? And, how far are these two restaurants from the Park Hyatt by car - 15 minutes? Thank you!

I would kill Andeluna on Monday, and Catena on Tuesday. I think Salentein is the better visit in the Valle de Uco over Andeluna, and Catena is a very standard cookie-cutter tour that is really nothing special. Dont get me wrong, both the wines of Andeluna and Catena are very good, but the visits are nothing special plus you can get almost all their portfolio of wines overseas so I think they are the best choices to drop from the list.

As far as I understand, both restaurants LB and Mallmann are open on Sundays, Mondays Im not so sure, especially LB. Mallmann may be open 7 days a week. I suggest you have the Vines of Mendoza folks reconfirm this for you.

Cheers,
Alex

Given the above comment on the preferences of your wife, then I strongly suggest Francis Mallmann´s restaurant over LB.

Thanks Gaucho100K ... I'll go to Mallmann!

And thanks from me as well! ^

My pleasure... Im here to help!! :D

Hi All-

I'm a regular FT member with a request from my son who is living in BA (attending a B-School term abroad)

I'm forwarding his email and would appreciate any response:

this is the thread I want to post on- all things mendoza
> >
> >the guy who started the thread Gaucho100K seems like he knows his
> >stuff
> >
> >my question:
> >
> >"Hi there gang. Great thread! I am a grad student in BsAs and just
> >booked a 3-day trip to Mendoza while my girlfriend is visiting from
> >New York. Unfortunately most the best hotels were already booked, but
> >I found a room at Robles de Besares Posada in Chacras de Coria. Does
> >anybody know much about the place?
> >
> >I also wanted advice on a day of memorable wine tasting. It seems
> >like 3 vineyards is the magic number for a full day. Do we want to
> >stay around the Chacras de Coria region? I would love to visit three
> >spots that offer more personalized (ie less generic) tours and
> >tastings. My trip is in a little over 2 weeks so I want to book soon!
> >
> >Also a friend told me he ate lunch in Mendoza last year at an amazing
> >restaurant that was in a cave? Ring any bells for anyone??? He can't
> >remember the name.
> >
> >Thanks!"



Appreciate your help--

Im afraid I dont know the Posada mentioned.... I suggest you check out Trip Advisor for reviews on them. Chacras de Coria is a good place to stay... you are out of the noise of downtown and still within good striking distance (10-15 minute cab ride).

3 Bodegas in one day is doable.... but do book transportation with a driver and make sure to have your appointments confirmed beforehand. If you dont want cookie cutter tours, its best to stick to bodegas that are either small or have a tradition of more elaborate tours... but, make sure you state what it is you expect when making your reservations. Some name I suggest you look into before you make your choices:

Achval Ferrer
Bodega La Azul
O. Fournier
Salentein
Terrazas de los Andes

Cheers,
Alex (Gaucho100K)

Thanks Gaucho100K ... I'll go to Mallmann!

I went to Mallmann. Very nice ambiance, very good service ... reservation is needed, we have been there on a Wednesday and it was packed.
The food was OK, but not great.
The lunch at Ruca Malen was much better, even their top vino tinto.
We stayed at a new hotel. Executive Suites, San Lorenzo 660 (they have 3 hotels, this is the newest one). We booked through Expedia and got a great suite, breakfast, valet parking for less than $100. The whole 14th floor was "decorated" with Familia Zuccardi. Other floors had decoration from other wineries. The service was excellent - very friendly and professional.
http://www.parksuites.com.ar/executive.html

USAFAN-- thanks very much for posting the mini-report on your experience with this new hotel. Ive heard a lot about these properties (from folks related to the venture), but this is the first customer experience I hear first hand. I guess I will add this to my list of recommended places to stay.

Yes, it's a really nice hotel. But there was a problem with A/C. The A/C handler is located at the bedroom and very noisy. To should the A/C off was no solution ... the room got too hot when I was there in November 2007.
Still, I would go back. The hotel is very stylish and the staff was extremely friendly and professional. I wonder who got the guts to build such a hotel in Mendoza?! Are they expecting more business, tourists?

Mendoza has a strong shortage of hotel beds..... and tourism is growing very strongly. Many bodegas are looking to provide lodging.... and the rumor mill is saying that apparently Hilton and/or Sheraton are working with local investors to build properties in MDZ. Stay tuned for details...

OK- now for something completely different!

Is there a "best" grocery store in Mendoza? We will be spending a few weeks in Las Lenas in August, and want to stock up on provisions in Mendoza before we shuttle down to the resort. Last year, we found it impossible to find a bunch of the things that we wanted, items that aren't part of the traditional Argentine diet.

I wasn't surprised that I couldn't find coconut milk, lemongrass, or tuong ot... but I was surprised that I couldn't find shallots, portabello mushrooms, or, as I recall, red onions - they just had the yellow onions, or was it the other way 'round?

Are there any specialty food stores that sell "exotic" groceries like these? Don't get me wrong, I love chorizo and grease cookies! I'm just looking to spice things things up a bit.

Oh- I'd like to buy a whole jamon serrano, too... but maybe that's asking too much?

I suggest you head to Jumbo.... please see the link below:

http://www.jumbo.com.ar/jumbo/site/Jumbo/Acerca%20de%20Jumbo/Locales/index.html

Once you open the link... look below the map and you can see additional links to the locations that Jumbo has in the different provinces.... Mendoza appears first in the list, click and you will have another window open that includes detailed address information and how to get there.

BTW, smart move to stock up in Mendoza as prices at the small markets that you have in Las Leñas will kill just about any budget... :eek:

I agree with Alex that Jumbo is probably your best bet (BTW, it's pronounced "Zhumbo" in Argentina).

I've not been to the Jumbo in Mendoza, but the other stores have many of the items you're looking for. The trick is to find where abouts in the store they might be. Often imported items are in places you wouldn't think to look, and they tend to be stocked in different places at different times. Sometimes imported Asian products (often from a single manufacturer) will be grouped in a display around a pillar). These items will be labeled in English. Coconut milk always seems to be stocked.

The portabello mushrooms will be prepackaged in a produce section cooler. Shallots I've seen are prepackaged in mesh bags hanging from pillar with other prepackaged items, like peppers (and nowhere near the loose onions). I've seen fresh lemongrass at times, grouped with other fresh herbs, and sometimes at the central weigh station (NB - loose produce is weighed and bar-coded at these stations, so make sure you have that done before you go to check-out).

There will most probably be an "imported" food isle, which is the best place to look first. Many of employees you see in the store are outside vendor shelf stockers, so they might not know where many of the items may be.

Your best bet is to just walk around the supermarket and see what they have. Even some more mundane items will be grouped in different places than you are accustomed to in the US.

John

Thank you Alex and John, that's great info - I even found a picture of the Jumbo on Google Earth (panoramio.com).

I agree that Jumbo will likely be the most practical place to gather your supplies but suggest you also consider visiting the Mercado Central in the center of the city at Av. Las Heras and Patricias Mendocinas. A beautiful display of fruits, meats, cheese etc. Make sure you take your camera.

^^^
Will add that to the list too, thank you.

FYI, I just returned from a 4 day visit to the Mendoza area, and am an experienced wine tourist, so I thought I'd give some recommendations and observations:

For staying in Mendoza town on a budget, I can highly recommend the Argentino Hotel, which is around the corner from the Park Hyatt, along the plaza and quite pleasant, with small but nice rooms, and excellent service from the staff, at 1/3 the price of the Hyatt. Not a 5* like the Hyatt, but a high quality 3-3.5* place. It was easily booked on Travelocity. I paid $70 US a night after taxes for their cheapest room in late April. They have free internet PCs in the lobby for guests to use - which proved very useful for arranging some of my winery visits.

To explore the wine region on my own, I rented a car from Hertz downtown office, which was about 20 meters from the Argentino's front door on Espejo. An economy VW Golf with manual transmission cost me about $49 US/day with my #1 Club discount for 3 days with 200KM per day included. I've heard that this may have been an unusually good rate - I made the reservation on the Hertz website a couple of weeks in advance. The Argentino rate included free parking in a lot around the corner.

Around 100 meters from either the Hyatt or the Argentino, on Espejo, is a for fee tasting room called the Vines of Mendoza, which is a good spot to get a brief education and orientation of the vineyards in the region, some maps, and winery recommendations, as well as a chance to imbibe a bit of several different Argentine wines within walking distance to your hotel.

I spent my first day exploring Mendoza City, and 3 days touring the wine regions, 2 days in Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo, and 1 day in the Uco Valley. It is important to note that when touring on one's own, most wineries required advance appointments. Many of these were arranged by phone earlier on the same day, while a few were set up by e-mail the day before.

Noteworthy wineries I visited:
Zuccardi (one of the few that allows walk-ins - I got a great personal tour & tasting)
Achaval-Ferrer (a superb boutique winery with, IMHO, the best wines I tasted on the trip)
VistAlba (spectacular, serious new winery with a superb lunch at La Bourgogne)
Luigi Bosca (medium sized winery with a broad range of offerings)
Chandon (Argentine outpost of the famed French Champagne producer)
Ruca Malen (They apply the tour fee to a bottle purchase - so I bought a nice Malbec)
Catena (Breathtaking physical plant & fine wines - but an arrogant attitude that shows)
Bodegas Norton - wines are widely distributed in the U.S.

I was disappointed that I couldn't book a visit with Pulenta Estate, as they told me that they were fully booked all of the time I was there.

In the Valle de Uco:
Salentein (very good wines, spectacular winery - obvious evidence that some folks on earth have too much money to know what to do with it)
Andeluna (I was more impressed with the restaurant than the merely very good wines)
O.Fournier (fine wines and a serious attitude to producing them)
J&F Lurton (solid wines across the board)

The drive to the Valle de Uco is spectacular, especially the stretch over the ridge into Tupungato.

One observation that I would make is that, although I schlepped 4 bottles of wine in my luggage back to the U.S. (3 of which were Achaval Ferrer's superb 2005 Quimera) most of the Argentine wines that ARE imported into the U.S. are available for the same price or even slightly cheaper HERE, than in Argentina. In general, I found that several wines that retailed for 60 to 80 pesos a bottle in Buenos Aires, could be found for slightly under $20 in California. So, before one buys wine in Argentina to lug back to the U.S., do a quick internet search and find out if that wine retails in the U.S. - If it's available, you may as well wait and buy it back home.

Thanks for a great report D1andonlyDman :) but I am shocked at the price for the Hotel Argentino , boy have they gone up. I too love the hotel and have stayed there several times. The first time I had a suite for $80 usd and other times only paid $45 usd a night for one of those great rooms on the front with a terrace overlooking the Plaza. You can send booking requests on their web site http://www.argentino-hotel.com/site.html

Sam

Thanks for a great report D1andonlyDman :) but I am shocked at the price for the Hotel Argentino , boy have they gone up. I too love the hotel and have stayed there several times. The first time I had a suite for $80 usd and other times only paid $45 usd a night for one of those great rooms on the front with a terrace overlooking the Plaza. You can send booking requests on their web site http://www.argentino-hotel.com/site.html

Sam

The website quoted rooms from $190 to $280. How do you get room rates as low as $45?

The website quoted rooms from $190 to $280. How do you get room rates as low as $45?

Perhaps if one divides by 3.1 (rough current exchange rate pesos per dollar) you will get the right price. Argentine web-site, Argentine Pesos. Hilton, Marriott, Starwood U.S. dollars.

So, the $ sign on the website actually mean peso. I got it. It was a little confusing.

So, the $ sign on the website actually mean peso. I got it. It was a little confusing.

In Argentina $ is Pesos and US$ or U$S is used to for Dolar pricing. However, one needs to be alert when shopping because there is sometimes the odd bad apple that will try to pull the switcheroo on the less than careful visitor and charge you Dollars for a price that is supposed to be Pesos.

FYI, the rate I paid at the Argentino was $58 US booked on Travelocity. After 21% tax, the total came to $70 US per night

My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon for this October. My big challenge is getting us to Mendoza, preferably on a Star Alliance carrier for as long as possible. Neither one of us has been to South America so I would like to minimize transfers and cab rides if at all possible.

We are planning to split the time, beginning in Mendoza for a few nights at Cavas Wine Lodge, then head over to Buenos Aires for another few days.

Being based in DC, the easiest option seems IAD to EZE via United; however, getting to Mendoza appears to be the challenge from there. I'd prefer to fly LAN, but to get directly to MDZ I would would have to switch airports to AEP or stay in EZE and fly through SCL.

The other option is to make a grand route:
United IAD to YYZ
Air Canada: YYZ to SCL
LAN: SCL to MDZ
LAN: MDZ to AEP
United: EZE to IAD

My questions are as follows:
1)Is AEP a pain to fly in/out of?
2) Would I be better flying into EZE and transfering to AEP to get to MDZ direct?
3) Will we be spending a majority of our time in customs by transferring through multiple countries (US to Canada to Chile to Argentina)?
4) Am I overlooking an easier route?

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon for this October. My big challenge is getting us to Mendoza, preferably on a Star Alliance carrier for as long as possible. Neither one of us has been to South America so I would like to minimize transfers and cab rides if at all possible.

We are planning to split the time, beginning in Mendoza for a few nights at Cavas Wine Lodge, then head over to Buenos Aires for another few days.

Being based in DC, the easiest option seems IAD to EZE via United; however, getting to Mendoza appears to be the challenge from there. I'd prefer to fly LAN, but to get directly to MDZ I would would have to switch airports to AEP or stay in EZE and fly through SCL.

The other option is to make a grand route:
United IAD to YYZ
Air Canada: YYZ to SCL
LAN: SCL to MDZ
LAN: MDZ to AEP
United: EZE to IAD

My questions are as follows:
1)Is AEP a pain to fly in/out of?
2) Would I be better flying into EZE and transfering to AEP to get to MDZ direct?
3) Will we be spending a majority of our time in customs by transferring through multiple countries (US to Canada to Chile to Argentina)?
4) Am I overlooking an easier route?

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

1. For my part AEP is no problem at all to fly in and out of.
2. It is not a big deal to fly into EZE clear customs (never a huge backup) and have a remise or taxi take you to AEP. Takes about 30 to 40 minutes in travel time depending on traffic.
3. If you fly into SCL you would stay in the transit area and not clear Chilean customs, (also avoid paying the $USD 100 plus visa fee for entering Chile) assuming that Air Canada would check your bags through to Mendoza.
4. Besides checking to see if UA has a code share with TAM via Sao Paulo I think you have the *A pretty well covered.

By the way the Cavas Lodge is outstanding, hugely expensive by Argentine standards and by mine too :D but what a way to go ^ Have you decided where you will stay in Buenos Aires? There are some great boutique hotels, The BoBo http://www.bobohotel.com/
SoHo All Suites http://www.sohoallsuites.com/ are just a couple of suggestions.

SAM

No big deal. Change airports in Buenos Aires and fly LAN from AEP to Mendoza.

I would recommend spending a day or two each way in BA - staying in either Recoleta or Palermo as well, so you are not worried about making your connections. Those areas are really nice places, with fine shopping, dining, museums and other distractions as well, and they are the most convenient neighborhoods to AEP airport.

Change airports EZE to AEP and fly LANCHILE. Easy 30-40 remise drive (35-40 US dollars aprox)
I agree with D1andonlyDman, not to miss Buenos Aires too!

By the way the Cavas Lodge is outstanding, hugely expensive by Argentine standards and by mine too :D but what a way to go ^ Have you decided where you will stay in Buenos Aires? There are some great boutique hotels, The BoBo http://www.bobohotel.com/
SoHo All Suites http://www.sohoallsuites.com/ are just a couple of suggestions.

SAM

We are still deciding where to stay in Buenos Aires. I'll take a look at the suggestions. I heard that Home was really nice as well http://www.homebuenosaires.com/home/

Thanks to all for the advice.

We are still deciding where to stay in Buenos Aires. I'll take a look at the suggestions. I heard that Home was really nice as well http://www.homebuenosaires.com/home/

Thanks to all for the advice.

Home is very nice as well, not as upscale as the BoBo or SoHo but very nice. There are so many boutique hotels, VAIN is another that is rather nice
http://www.vainuniverse.com/

Have a great trip
Sam

Anyone has an advice on getting from Mendoza to Las Lenas for a couple days of skiing? I was hoping for bus services. Is there a regularly scheduled bus service going from Mendoza to Las Lenas?

Anyone has an advice on getting from Mendoza to Las Lenas for a couple days of skiing? I was hoping for bus services. Is there a regularly scheduled bus service going from Mendoza to Las Lenas?

From Mendoza to Las Leñas
Daily bus going out of Mendoza bus station at 01:00 arrives at 07:15 is the only bus of the day. The bus ticket is about $55 Argentine pesos

CATA intenacional bus service

Cata Internacional http://www.catainternacional.com (54) 0261-4052282

Sam

You can also go to Las Leña by Bus departing from Buenos Aires.

samftla and Gaucho100K

Thank you very much. You guys are fantastic. I had thought about taking the bus from Buenos Aires but the thought of bus toilet for a 12 or 13 hour bus ride was enough to convince me otherwise. I don't even think I can get my boys to ride the bus with me.

I know I am being unfair punishing Argentine buses for the sorry state of the US buses. I have ridden those supper deluxe buses in Taiwan. Their seats are as comfortable as the international business first seats but I never had the courage to try the toilets. We in the US are traumatized by the nasty bus toilet.

Nancy

Hi, we're planning a trip to Argentina from late December to early January, and we were contemplating spending Christmas (and a few days either side) in Mendoza. Are most wineries open during this period, or do they shut for several days during the holidays? We definitely want to spend some time in Mendoza, but can rearrange things if necessary so as to be there when places are open. TIA.

My wife and I are planning a few days in Mendoza next April. I know Gaucho's recommendation is to go for someplace local, but I have both Hyatt and Starwood points that I'd like to use.

I've read good things about the Hyatt here. I know the Sheraton hasn't opened yet, but how does the location compare? I'll have platinum status at the Sheraton, but will likely have no status at Hyatt come April.


We won't have a car
We will wander around town for a day (wine tour via driver the other)


Thoughts?

Hyatt is on a central park. There are a number of good restaurants in the area. It is approximately a block and a half from The Vines which can book your wine tour including driver. They do not charge a fee (at least not when we visited in May, 2007). I suggest that you e-mail them to set up the tour since they normally need at least a day to make your arrangements.

http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/

We stayed at the Hotel Argentino which definely is not the Park Hyatt or even the soon-to-arrive Sheraton. I mention this because it is across the park from the Hyatt and we were warned not to walk thru the park after dark. It was ok to walk around the periphery-we did not feel unsafe in the area. In fact, the Argentino suggested that we walk on the outside.

Our Remis driver was Genaro Caballero who speaks little English but was excellent. He drove us on the wine tour and took us to the airport for our flight back to AEP, He arrived on time. He is cell phone equipped and a genuinely nice guy. Telephone 0261-154 191661

One day, we had lunch at La Florencia, a very local Parilla down the street from the Hyatt. It definitely had the ambiance of a small local restaurant even though it is not small. It certainly was cost-effective. Its address is Sarmiento 698 http://www.sidestep.com/travel-restaurant-g5152740-estancia_la_florencia_mendoza_argentina

Another restaurant was Mi Tierra. Corner of Mitre and San Lorenzo. Requires a taxi from the Hotel. It is considered one of the better restaurants in Mendoza. As I recall it was good. http://www.mendoza.com.ar/mi_tierra_restaurante_tematico_1.html

1884 is considered one of Mendoza's best. We thought it was just OK. I recall that I had Chivito that was pretty tough. A great over-priced restaurant does not equal an internationally known chef. Perhaps he hires a publicist?? http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/central-and-south-america/argentina/mendoza/restaurant-detail.html?vid=1154654647482

Our favorite of the restaurants that we tried is also walking distance (2 blocks) from the Hyatt. Francesco, Chile 1268, is owned by the Family Zuccardi. It requires reservations as do most of the upper end restaurants. BTW: it is not open on Sundays. It is Italian.

http://www.francescoristorante.com.ar/english/index.html

1884 is considered one of Mendoza's best. We thought it was just OK. I recall that I had Chivito that was pretty tough. A great over-priced restaurant does not equal an internationally known chef. Perhaps he hires a publicist?? http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/central-and-south-america/argentina/mendoza/restaurant-detail.html?vid=1154654647482

http://www.francescoristorante.com.ar/english/index.html

Sorry you did not have a good experience at Francis Mallman's 1884. I have dined there numerous times and never had anything but spectacular food and service. Maybe a bit unfair based on one dining experience to attribute their success to a publicist? After all The Times of London named it one of the world's top 10 not long ago. In comparison to the many 2 and 3 star Michelin restaurants in which I have dined in Europe, it certainly holds its own.

By the way, my PR firm is available for restaurant representation and have solid connections with the NY Times and The Times of London:D

Suerte
SAM

Personally, I thought that the location of the Hyatt and the Argentino, which is around the corner from it, were great. I was very happy with the Argentino, at 1/3 the price of the Hyatt. The rooms are small, but it's fine. From a quality standpoint, think of a Marriott Courtyard or Hilton Garden Inn or Hampton Inn in a prime location as comparable.

I personally am an SPG elite member, and when I went, the Sheraton was not yet built, but compared to SPG Cat-3 points rates (7K per night), I would definitely say that the Argentino at well under $100 US per night was better value, even if the Sheraton was both as nice and as well located as the Hyatt - which, in particular with regard to location, I doubt.

Proximity to most of the best dining, shopping in Mendoza is important if you will not have a car. Also, I would reitterate contacting the Vines of Mendoza prior to your trip to arrange wine touring. Their tasting room is a block away from either the Hyatt or the Argentino.

http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/

http://www.argentino-hotel.com/

Note, the Argentino's pricing on their website is in Argentine Pesos, not U.S. dollars, despite the use of dollar signs - that's Pesos. You can also book them on Travelocity or Expedia.

Another vote for Mallmann's place in Mendoza.... ^

In terms of using points/mileage in Mendoza, IMO the best value is the Hyatt..... and depending on what they offer, the Sheraton is also a decent (alas not stellar) use of points.

We have just returned from Mendoza. Thanks to this board we had a very good trip. I can second the recommendation on Argentio Hotel for its location and friendly staff. It is a simple hotel with the right price. We were traveling with our sons. The location is perfect for teenagers and twenty-something.

Vines of Mendoza is a wonderful establishment. Although they no longer books tours, they provided provided recommendations for tour companies and Remis drivers. Our driver is very fluent in English. Somewhat knowledgeable about wine has sufficient contact with wineries to fill a couple of gaps we had in our schedule. He drives a mini van and charged US$115 each day vs wine tour companies charges over US$200 for private tours. If you want group tours, they are very reasonably priced. One price I heard was ~US$100 or 125 for 4 wineries and lunch.

Anyone would like my drivers email address, please let me know.

Hi everyone. In November, my wife and I will be making our first visit to Mendoza. We'll have 3 days. I've read through this entire thread looking for the best way "to do Mendoza," but I'm still a bit puzzled.

We'd like to eat well, we'd like to drink well, we'd like to enjoy pleasant scenery, we'd prefer atmospheric non-urban accomodations, and we'd prefer not to be herded on a large group tour (but we're also value conscious, and if it's significantly cheaper to be herded, we'd be willing to consider it). In most places, we'd probably rent a car, but since we're gringos who aren't comfortable with stick shifts and since we'll be visiting at least some vineyards, driving ourselves doesn't seem like the best strategy since there seem to be good alternatives.

So given these parameters, what's our best strategy? Thanks!!

There are several non-urban properties listed above. Do not hire a car, let a local TA or The Vines make your reservations for tasting and a remise with driver. On your own in a car is practically impossible, local car (remise) and driver gets you to the wineries that you will never find on your own.

Posted from the Sheraton Quito, PM me after the 20th and I will be happy to help with telephone numbers. web addresses and other questions. Some are posted in this thread.

There are several non-urban properties listed above. Do not hire a car, let a local TA or The Vines make your reservations for tasting and a remise with driver. On your own in a car is practically impossible, local car (remise) and driver gets you to the wineries that you will never find on your own.

Posted from the Sheraton Quito, PM me after the 20th and I will be happy to help with telephone numbers. web addresses and other questions. Some are posted in this thread.

Thanks -- I'll PM you.

What we're looking for is pretty straightforward -- the "best" Mendoza experience at a reasonable price. What's reasonable? I was hoping to keep my lodging expenses below US$150/day (per room) and my transportation cost below US$100/day (including visits to wineries) and yet travel in style and comfort. I've been able to travel on that budget elsewhere in Argentina, but after looking at some of the links, I'm not so sure about Mendoza. Hence, my need for help!

Thanks.

One of my top non-urban choices for lodging in Mendoza is Lares de Chacras.... ^

One of my top non-urban choices for lodging in Mendoza is Lares de Chacras.... ^

Thanks. On the web, Casa Glebinias gets even better reviews than Lares de Chacras (and may be less expensive). What say our experts?

I have first hand experiences with Lares but not with Glebinas, although I have heard good reviews. Just beware that availability is sometimes an issue at both properties, so you may not be able to choose.

There are several non-urban properties listed above. Do not hire a car, let a local TA or The Vines make your reservations for tasting and a remise with driver. On your own in a car is practically impossible, local car (remise) and driver gets you to the wineries that you will never find on your own.

While it's certainly nice to have someone do the driving for you, I strongly disagree that doing it on one's own with a car is practically impossible. I had no problem at all doing it. I was able to arrange 3-4 stops a day and hit them no problem. One needs to plan a day or two ahead when doing this, but it's certainly doable. See my post #167 a couple of pages back in this thread for more details.

While it's certainly nice to have someone do the driving for you, I strongly disagree that doing it on one's own with a car is practically impossible. I had no problem at all doing it. I was able to arrange 3-4 stops a day and hit them no problem. One needs to plan a day or two ahead when doing this, but it's certainly doable. See my post #167 a couple of pages back in this thread for more details.

Sure its possible to do (although its not easy).... but then, whats the point of visiting 3-4 bodegas if you cant drink the wine? I will assume that you didnt drink the wines and still drove all day, right...?

Also, even if you have a non drinker in your party, signage in Mendoza continues to be very bad, and you will also need to have someone in your party that speaks Spanish... when you get lost and need to ask for directions, chances of you finding someone fluent in English will be very very slim.

Gaucho, I taste wines almost like a person in the trade does, spitting as I go - although I will certainly swallow a small amount if the wine is really good - Note, I used to be in the trade, and I know what I'm doing as far as tasting lots of wine without getting trashed.

I can probably taste 50-80 wines critically in a day of tasting in California - where I might hit 12-15 wineries in a day. During a 6-7 hour span, I probably actually consume the equivalent of 2-3 glasses of wine, and because that is done gradually over a period of time, I am certainly nowhere near getting intoxicated - In fact, I'm much more likely to suffer from palette fatigue than from a "buzz" from too much alcohol. In Mendoza, I am seeing far fewer wineries, so I am probably tasting more like 20-30 wines in a full day, and again, I am consuming no more than a couple of glasses worth over that time.

Actually, the key is to get good maps - which I have found are available at Vines of Mendoza and in the brochures at the hotel desks. I really had no problem at all finding my way around. I can read Spanish, although I'm much less able to understand it when it's spoken at normal speed by a native speaker.

The point is, I really had no problem at all making my way around the area over the course of 3 days, driving myself in an area I had never been to before. The independence of having one's own car, and the ability to alter one's own itinerary at will is invaluable in really getting an appreciation for the area.

As an example of the advantage going on one's own provides, one of the wineries that I set up on the spur of the moment because I had some time between planned visits, and happened to be in the area nearby, was Achaval Ferrer - which turned out to be the highlight winery of my entire trip.

After contacting several inns and hotels, I think I have reluctantly decided to stay in Mendoza for my November stay. I just can't justify paying $150+ night at some of the country inns, when I can find decent b&bs in Mendoza for less than 1/3rd of that.

I suspect staying in Mendoza, while less atmospheric, may also reduce my touring expenses. Can anyone recommend a good value driver/tour? I'm also looking through past posts and contacting those who seem to have information on this.

BTW, I would also consider renting an automatic transmission vehicle if I could find one at a decent price, but I presume that will be nearly impossible.

Thanks for the help!!

Please note that staying inside the city will reduce your touring expenses... but only touring to restaurants and other urban locations, which will include a few bodegas that are closer to the city proper. However, distances in Mendoza are considerable.... so, staying closer to the city will not save you time/distance & $$$ if you want to visit the more interesting bodegas, almost all of which are located well outside of the city.

Also... please note that even though the price difference between a B&B and a country inn is at least 3 to 1, please be aware that the comfort and services offered are in completely different galaxies... there is no comparison. Of course, only you know where you want to spend your $$$ and Im not trying to argue with you on that, its just that Im not sure what you mean by "not being able to justify".... as the price difference will be more than evident by the difference in what you will get between a B&B and the country-inns that are recommended on the various threads/posts in these fora.

I would forget renting a car..... even a manual transmission vehicle will be a lot more expensive than what you would pay for a comparble set of wheels in North America... plus, you will get lost, signage in Mendoza is poor, and you must speak fluent Spanish to be able to get directions.

Also... please note that even though the price difference between a B&B and a country inn is at least 3 to 1, please be aware that the comfort and services offered are in completely different galaxies... there is no comparison. Of course, only you know where you want to spend your $$$ and Im not trying to argue with you on that, its just that Im not sure what you mean by "not being able to justify".... as the price difference will be more than evident by the difference in what you will get between a B&B and the country-inns that are recommended on the various threads/posts in these fora.

Well, I can only know what I read, and it would appear that I can be quite comfortable at a Mendoza b&b for a tiny fraction of the price of a country inn. It does seem like I will give up quite a bit of atmosphere, which is a shame, but everyone has their price and I'm personally not willing to pay 4x as much for atmosphere based on what I'm reading. FWIW, Americans don't get to stay in many b&bs because they are generally MUCH more expensive than hotels (especially for wheelin' and dealin' flyertalkers!), so perhaps that explains my perspective a bit.

It would also seem that I'll get better restaurant access in town. Is that correct? I would also love to be able to secure a reasonably priced driver for an extensive full day tours of the vineyards. Thanks for the help!

It would also seem that I'll get better restaurant access in town. Is that correct? I would also love to be able to secure a reasonably priced driver for an extensive full day tours of the vineyards. Thanks for the help!

Yes, closer to town will offer you more dining choices.

Im afraid I cant help much with the reasonable priced driver... Im very cautious about recommending drivers (had bad experiences) and only have one driver that I trust, but he drives a Land Rover and is priced in the luxury category and on top of that he is booked almost 6 months in advance.

Im very cautious about recommending drivers (had bad experiences) and only have one driver that I trust, but he driver a Land Rover and is priced in the luxury category and on top of that he is booked almost 6 months in advance.


Thanks. And you're right -- I'm not looking for a guy with a Land Rover. :)

We are contemplating a week in Argentina late January. In 2 previous visits we have spent time around BA, and gone hiking near El Chalten.

Now thinking of the central Andes region for sightseeing, some wine, and a bit of hiking. Is Mendoza likely to be a good choice? Other possibilities? I assume we will need a car despite the cost and my rather poor Spanish.

Thanks

.... However, distances in Mendoza are considerable....
I would forget renting a car..... even a manual transmission vehicle will be a lot more expensive than what you would pay for a comparble set of wheels in North America... plus, you will get lost, signage in Mendoza is poor, and you must speak fluent Spanish to be able to get directions.

Gaucho100K:

You are correct ... and I didn't follow your advise ... but would do it again:
-Distances in the Mendoza wine area are pretty long
-Car rental was NOT too expensive. Had a small car from Hertz and paid 406ARS ($133.68) for 3 days. BTW, the Hertz agents at the airport have been super friendly and helpful!
-And yes, I got lost several times, but finally found all destinations ... with my little Spanish.
-And yes, the signage is not good. Lots of construction work on some streets outside Mendoza ... and the maps I had didn't help me a lot. I was told, no GPS in Mendoza, don't know, if it's true.

As said before, I would do it again. Mrs. USAFAN and I like to roam around on ourself .... there is lots to see, to test .... people are so friendly and the scenery is spectacular! Bottom line: Due to your thread^, we have been well prepared for the trip .... It was a wonderful experience!
Thanks Gaucho100K^^^

Hi USAFAN-- glad you had a great trip... and congratulation for doing it on your own!!! ^ ^ ^ Im glad the warnings had you prepare and not be deterred from doing it anyways... :D ^

Hey USAFAN --

I'm heading to Mendoza next month and have a couple of driving questions for you. Unfortunately, the system won't let me send you a PM. Can you send one to me?

Thanks.

Gaucho, I taste wines almost like a person in the trade does, spitting as I go - although I will certainly swallow a small amount if the wine is really good - Note, I used to be in the trade, and I know what I'm doing as far as tasting lots of wine without getting trashed.

I can probably taste 50-80 wines critically in a day of tasting in California - where I might hit 12-15 wineries in a day. During a 6-7 hour span, I probably actually consume the equivalent of 2-3 glasses of wine, and because that is done gradually over a period of time, I am certainly nowhere near getting intoxicated - In fact, I'm much more likely to suffer from palette fatigue than from a "buzz" from too much alcohol. In Mendoza, I am seeing far fewer wineries, so I am probably tasting more like 20-30 wines in a full day, and again, I am consuming no more than a couple of glasses worth over that time.

Actually, the key is to get good maps - which I have found are available at Vines of Mendoza and in the brochures at the hotel desks. I really had no problem at all finding my way around. I can read Spanish, although I'm much less able to understand it when it's spoken at normal speed by a native speaker.

The point is, I really had no problem at all making my way around the area over the course of 3 days, driving myself in an area I had never been to before. The independence of having one's own car, and the ability to alter one's own itinerary at will is invaluable in really getting an appreciation for the area.

As an example of the advantage going on one's own provides, one of the wineries that I set up on the spur of the moment because I had some time between planned visits, and happened to be in the area nearby, was Achaval Ferrer - which turned out to be the highlight winery of my entire trip.

Next time you are in Mendoza, I would suggest trying to visit the following producers:

- Benegas
- La Azul
- O. Fournier
- Mapema
- Cruzat Larrain (for sparkling)

Next time you are in Mendoza, I would suggest trying to visit the following producers:

- Benegas
- La Azul
- O. Fournier
- Mapema
- Cruzat Larrain (for sparkling)

Gaucho, FYI, I had schedule conflicts that prevented me from seeing La Azul and O.Fournier the only day that I was in the Valle de Uco. As for Mapema, I have enjoyed their wines here in the U.S., but I couldn't find any info on the winery itself when I was there. Were I to do it over again, I would have gone to O.Fournier and La Azul instead of taking the tour and lunch at Andeluna.

I agree that Andeluna is nice, but has a "sterile" kind of feeling that doesnt make me get excited about their wines. Fournier and La Azul have a lot more character... ^

I agree that Andeluna is nice, but has a "sterile" kind of feeling that doesnt make me get excited about their wines. Fournier and La Azul have a lot more character... ^

Gaucho100K:

I guess you are right (as always). However, there are only a few who have a "perfect test" ...... 2008 there are fewer than 160 people in the world who have attained the designation of Master Sommelier. This is up from 100 in 2000 ..... I am not so sure, that I can recognize any and all differences ... this is especially true with reds, at least for me.

When I am looking to visit wineries I look at location, view and what they have to offer. In Mendoza we visited several wineries, all are good, very friendly .... We had meals at:

-"1884 Francis Mallmann", dinner. It was packed, the food was very good, we had a place to overlook the "outdoor kitchen", where they grill the meat.
-"Familia Zuccardi", lunch and tour. They where extremely friendly, we arrived a little early and daughter Zuccardi was asking us "are you OK" every 5 to 10 minutes or so. The food was very good. I am not sure, if the wine is that great. BTW, we lived at the 14th floor of Park Hotel .... the whole floor was stuffed with "Familia Zuccardi" (wine, glasses etc.)
-Ruca Malen, lunch and tour. Very friendly. Great location .. view of the Andes. The food was top-class, they have a gifted chef. Great menu with wine pairing. I liked their reds a lot ... but what do I know.

I had dinner at 1884 Mallman last night. The food was superb and the ambiance excellent, EXCEPT for the fact that we got robbed while dining. While my travelling party escaped unscathed and with all of our property. It was a sad end to a fantastic dining experience.

Below is the article describing the robbery: http://www.losandes.com.ar/notas/2008/11/9/un-391547.asp

Despite that experience, our time at 1884 was superb (if one can say that).

I had dinner at 1884 Mallman last night. The food was superb and the ambiance excellent, EXCEPT for the fact that we got robbed while dining. While my travelling party escaped unscathed and with all of our property. It was a sad end to a fantastic dining experience.

Below is the article describing the robbery: http://www.losandes.com.ar/notas/2008/11/9/un-391547.asp

Despite that experience, our time at 1884 was superb (if one can say that).

Sorry to hear this. It's scary .... I can't imagine that that could happen. The area is heavily manned & gated, almost like a castle. Again, I really feel sorry for you.

Here is the Google translation of the article:

"Raided the restaurant of Francis Mallman at Godoy Cruz
Five armed men cut into the custody of the place and diners and looted the box business. It is the third time in two years that the luxurious restaurant suffers an assault.
Five armed criminals raided a renowned restaurant last night of Godoy Cruz, where he stole personal belongings from the diners and money and other valuables of the business, police sources reported today.

The incident occurred at 0.40, in the exclusive restaurant's chef Francis Mallman 1884, in the former Escorihuela winery, located at the corner of Belgrano and Alvear.

Police sources reported that despite the security that had closed in the local, five criminals were admitted to stealing and threatened staff and customers with guns.

The assailants robbed the customers of the effects of value, such as cellular phones, jewelry, watches, handbags and electronic goods.

According to sources, after thieves stole cash from the collection and a team music restaurant, and then escape from the site.

"The five were very fast and were escaping in a car with a white Fiat One patent completed in 943," a police chief.

This recognized restaurant-elected once among the best ten in the world by The New York Times had already suffered two other attacks two years ago, one in July 2006 and the second a month later.

The case is being investigated by the staff of the office of the prosecutor 4 and station 27"

I'm sorry that of that unfortunate situation as well. I'm heading to Mendoza in a few weeks and am looking for advice on what to do. I've seen the wineries mentioned above and will look into visiting a number of those.

I've found that there is a hot springs a day trip from Mendoza, but have not heard of any specific accounts. Has anyone been up there, if so is it recommended?

Also, we're staying at the Sheraton Mendoza - does anyone have any recent stays? Is it a good location for dining, museums etc?

Thanks in advance!

I'm sorry that of that unfortunate situation as well. I'm heading to Mendoza in a few weeks and am looking for advice on what to do. I've seen the wineries mentioned above and will look into visiting a number of those.

I've found that there is a hot springs a day trip from Mendoza, but have not heard of any specific accounts. Has anyone been up there, if so is it recommended?

Also, we're staying at the Sheraton Mendoza - does anyone have any recent stays? Is it a good location for dining, museums etc?

Thanks in advance!

There is so much more than just the vineyards to visit around Mendoza. I highly recommend this sight http://www.welcomeargentina.com/mendoza/index_i.html

Also the trip up to Aconcagua is really good, a long day but also stops at the Inca Bridge not sure if that is the hot springs you are referring to. But yes, it is interesting. You might also consider the white water rafting, trekking etc if you are an outdoorsy type.

Can't direct you on the Hotel, but I am sure you will get feedback from others who have been there. It is rather new.

sam

I had dinner at 1884 Mallman last night. The food was superb and the ambiance excellent, EXCEPT for the fact that we got robbed while dining. While my travelling party escaped unscathed and with all of our property. It was a sad end to a fantastic dining experience.

Below is the article describing the robbery: http://www.losandes.com.ar/notas/2008/11/9/un-391547.asp

Despite that experience, our time at 1884 was superb (if one can say that).

Very sorry to hear about your experience.

After what happened.... did they charge you for your meal?

In the interest of helping others as this thread helped me, allow me to add a brief report of highlights of our trip to the Mendoza area last month. I'm not affiliated with any of the places/persons mentioned below.

Places to stay:

The Hotel Argentino was quite well-kept (it's a newer property), and is located facing the central plaza in Mendoza. Service was always friendly (front desk personnel always spoke English to those whi required it). For the price per night, this was one of the best values we encountered on our two-week trip. Easily three star-plus.

The finest place we stayed during our journey, however, was Posada Olivar in nearby Lujan de Cuyo. Immaculate accomodations, serene grounds, an open wine cellar, walking distance to the town plaza, and best of all, genial conversation with Jose, who has an immense capacity for making you feel like family as soon as you walk through the door. The evening we spent chatting with Jose over wine and cheese on the Posada's patio was a highlight of our trip. A truly beautiful place, and one we hope to return to.

On visiting wineries:

We visited wineries in two ways: once via tourist bus (an afternoon trip to two wineries and an olive oil factory), and once via private car. Trust me, the latter is very much the way to go, even with the price difference. The size of the group in the tourist bus option made for quite minimal tasting selections, and too much time spent milling about gawking at barrels.

On the other hand, the $100(US) we spent on a private car and driver for a day (we hired Juan Llado based on a recommendation on Lonely Planet, and were quite glad we did -- internacionalmendoza@speedy.com.ar) was well worth it. Juan inquired as to our preferences the day before, made all of the necessary reservations at wineries and for lunch, and provided pleasant conversation (in English -- he also speaks French and, of course, Spanish)throughout the day. We visited three wineries in total, each an excellent experience. Tapiz and Sottano were our favorites. Lunch at Cava de Cano (Juan's suggestion), though on the expensive side, is not to be missed! All told, this was definitely the way to get the most out of our all-too brief time in and around Mendoza.

Related question... has anybody stayed at the brand new Sheraton Mendoza...????

Related question... has anybody stayed at the brand new Sheraton Mendoza...????

Hey, I came here to ask the same question. :) They've just loaded a bunch of $45 + 2800 "cash & points" nights, so it puts it in my price range.

BTW, I'm a little shocked by that Mallmann news. Three times in 2 years? Wow. I wasn't thinking too much about my security in Mendoza. Should I be? I assume the countryside is safer?

When we stayed at Argentino two years ago, they warned not to walk through the park after dark. Their advice was to walk on the periphery rather than through it since it could be unsafe. We took their advice and felt no more unsafe than walking around Manhattan after dark.

...BTW, I'm a little shocked by that Mallmann news. Three times in 2 years? Wow. I wasn't thinking too much about my security in Mendoza. Should I be? I assume the countryside is safer?

When I went to Mallmann there is a huge wall around the bodega and a checkpoint with one or two security guys... in other words, it was heavily secured.
I didn't think Mendoza was insecure, but I recognized that some shops had iron gates/bars, selling the goods through the bars.

Very sorry to hear about your experience.

After what happened.... did they charge you for your meal?

No. Though the restaurant staff was obviously shaken, they did an excellent job of tending to the patrons. Our meal was complementary and we were given a couple of bottles of wine as well.

No. Though the restaurant staff was obviously shaken, they did an excellent job of tending to the patrons. Our meal was complementary and we were given a couple of bottles of wine as well.

Glad to hear that at least they did their best to make the horrible experience end on a "somewhat better" note.

Related question... has anybody stayed at the brand new Sheraton Mendoza...????

I am staying at the Sheraton Mendoza in a week and was hoping to get some information about the hotel before my stay. If no one has stayed here I will be happy to be the first FTer to review it!

Looking forward to your review !!!

Does anyone have info or experience with Aerolineas? I just reserved a flight from AEP to MDZ round trip and unfortunately heard afterwards that they have issues of cancellations and delays. Would anyone advise cancelling (pay the fees) and reserve with LAN instead?

Consider going by bus if you can't change your AR reservation - not such a crazy idea. See post #85 in this thread.

Does anyone have info or experience with Aerolineas? I just reserved a flight from AEP to MDZ round trip and unfortunately heard afterwards that they have issues of cancellations and delays. Would anyone advise cancelling (pay the fees) and reserve with LAN instead?

If you can arrange to use LAN, it would be much better... AR is indeed having various issues these days and if you get unlucky and catch an off day it can get messy.

If you can arrange to use LAN, it would be much better... AR is indeed having various issues these days and if you get unlucky and catch an off day it can get messy.

Some things never change. :p

I'm fortunate to be flying LAN Argentina (for the first time) next week. That's likely to go OK, right? Any labor trouble forecast for the airports? That can shut down everyone.

Well, labor issues aside.... you will be OK with LAN.... but the trade unions is something that even LAN cannot control.... :p

It looks like I'll be staying at the new Sheraton, too. Which means I'll be looking for a place fairly nearby to have dinner. If I want a nice dinner -- and the feeling that I got good value for money -- where should I go in Mendoza?

Thanks.

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)

It looks like I'll be staying at the new Sheraton, too. Which means I'll be looking for a place fairly nearby to have dinner. If I want a nice dinner -- and the feeling that I got good value for money -- where should I go in Mendoza?

Thanks.

Ask the concierge... say you want to go to a place that will have no tourists. They should be able to point you in the right direction.

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)

It looks like I'll be staying at the new Sheraton, too. Which means I'll be looking for a place fairly nearby to have dinner. If I want a nice dinner -- and the feeling that I got good value for money -- where should I go in Mendoza?

Thanks.

Ask the concierge... say you want to go to a place that will have no tourists. They should be able to point you in the right direction.

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)



Ask the concierge... say you want to go to a place that will have no tourists. They should be able to point you in the right direction.

If I'm willing to drive a bit in town, what are the best reasonable-value restaurants in Mendoza city?

Also, I'm thinking of having lunch at the Zuccardi winery. At US$40 a head, it seems a little pricey. Is it worth it, or am I better off dining elsewhere in the area? thanks.

US$40 per head for a meal at a winery, assuming that includes wine, is very reasonable. Even if it doesnt include wine, its still very much within reason - as dining at wineries always carries a price-premium. Hard to know if its worth it for you without knowing you and what your tastes are like, but leaving that aside, US$40 per head is most certainly a very fair price for a meal at a Winery.

I had a random question about the bus to Santiago. Has anyone taken the overnight bus from Mendoza to Santiago?

While the view and ride are supposed to be fantastic (and would prefer to take the trip in the daytime,) the way my schedule is right now it involves taking the overnight bus to Mendoza.

With the stop at the border for customs, is it still okay to take the overnight?

I had a random question about the bus to Santiago. Has anyone taken the overnight bus from Mendoza to Santiago?

While the view and ride are supposed to be fantastic (and would prefer to take the trip in the daytime,) the way my schedule is right now it involves taking the overnight bus to Mendoza.

With the stop at the border for customs, is it still okay to take the overnight?

I think that if you do a search you may come up with something.... I think another FTer has some experience with this. Also, i would suggest you cross post this question in a new thread over on the South America forum.

Finally, the place where you will for sure find more info. on this trip is Trip Advisor. Ive seen it come up many times on the discussion boards.

US$40 per head for a meal at a winery, assuming that includes wine, is very reasonable. Even if it doesnt include wine, its still very much within reason - as dining at wineries always carries a price-premium. Hard to know if its worth it for you without knowing you and what your tastes are like, but leaving that aside, US$40 per head is most certainly a very fair price for a meal at a Winery.

OK, thanks. My experience with fine dining in Argentina is that -- unlike in America -- it gets more expensive when you leave the "big city" (BA).

Has anyone had lunch at Zuccardi?

Actually... I think in the case of Mendoza... the same US principle may apply. In my experience, La Bourgogne is less expensive in Mendoza when compared to EZE. Having said this.... Im not a fan of LB in general... but if I had to pick where to eat, I will pick LB in Mendoza any day over LB in Baires.

Has anyone had lunch at Zuccardi?

We were there in April '07. Arranged for a visit to three wineries through a travel agent. We were picked up at our hotel in a mini van and the whole day tour included lunch at Familia Zuccardi. Total price was $35 per person. Surely prices must have changed but nevertheless it might still be worth considering doing it this way.

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)



Has anyone had lunch at Zuccardi?

We were there in April '07. Arranged for a visit to three wineries through a travel agent. We were picked up at our hotel in a mini van and the whole day tour included lunch at Familia Zuccardi. Total price was $35 per person. Surely prices must have changed but nevertheless it might still be worth considering doing it this way.

Were wines included in the $35 you are quoting?

Indeed they were - see message #94 in this string.

Indeed they were - see message #94 in this string.

Wow -- it's odd that "just showing up" would be so much more expensive.

My husband and I are planning a trip to BA and Mendoza at the end of Jan
We are staying at Finca Adalgisa and based on :) reviews will visit
Achaval Ferrer, Salentein. We are in Mendoza for 4 days and are still looking for more bodegas to enjoy.
Any comments on Finca Adalgisa or Almacen del Sur?

(New to FT but love all the info, thanks Alex!)

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x448)

I would suggest visiting:

Benegas
La Azul
O. Fournier
Las Perdices

Almacen del Sur is a great place for lunch.

Thanks for the recommendations
I'll definitely look into these and send my reviews later

Having received so much helpful advice here, it's time to reciprocate with my "first time in Mendoza" review.

First, I will note that Mendoza is a very worthwhile destination. Unless you are a "wine nut," it should probably not be your first Argentina destination outside of BA, however. I like Patagonia better (scenery more breathtaking and much better wildlife), and I think I'd do Iguazu before Mendoza as well (still waiting to visit Salta!).

I decided to rent a car. I actually found a guy who has an automatic transmission vehicle, if that is important to you (PM me for details). It depends on your interests, but renting a car was right for me. Signage is indeed poor (as are some of the maps!) so there will be occasional frustrations, but the freedom to go where and when you want to is priceless. Just limit your drinking at the wineries and keep your stomach full. :)

As far as the wineries go: the experience is good, but perhaps not fabulous. As anyone who has ever visited wineries knows, the experience can be a bit repetitive after awhile (this is our crusher, these are the tanks, here are the oak barrels, etc.). And the distances between the wineries probably makes 3 a day enough. The biggest negatives are that it's usually wise to call ahead, but it's difficult to know when you will actually be showing up (hard to estimate visit times and driving times). And, perhaps more importantly, the wineries aren't usually great places to sample the wines. Sometimes the tours and tastings are free, but that usually means you'll get only a couple of tastes of their swilliest wines. And when there's a charge, it's usually overpriced and gringo-oriented. At Andeluna, for example, it's US $12 for a tour and a small sample of four of their cheapest wines.

Indeed, I found lunch at the wineries to be more fun (and perhaps a better value) than the wine tours. Salentein surprised me by having a good yet affordable restaurant. Lunch at La Bourgogne is about 125 pesos a person plus wine (affordable, some selections less than 50 pesos) and represents a memorable high end dining experience.

I do think most tourists would do well to combine winery tours with other activities in the area. The Andes are just an hour from Mendoza and very appealing. I stayed at an excellent b&b near Potreillos and did some memorable hiking. I would also recommend a soak at the Cacheuta hot springs (at the hotel, not the nearby "water park").

I also travelled down to San Rafael, which is where the Argentine wine industry gets more "real" and less trendy. I'd recommend a couple nights there to anyone who wants to get "off the beaten track." Prices are much lower than in the tourist world of Mendoza. For instance, an hour of whitewater rafting cost about US$12 per person, and nobody charged me for winetasting. I had dinner at L'Orbador, a country restaurant that is really just the chef's house. Sixty pesos a person for some great authentic Argentine cooking -- my wife and I agreed that we liked it better than La Bourgogne!

We stayed a night at the new Sheraton in Mendoza. It is a very nice hotel: the quality of, say, a J.W. Marriott. But, as others have said, it's probably a waste of time to spend much time in Mendoza city. If you want an Argentine city experience, stay in Buenos Aires. Mendoza is about the countryside, and that's where you'll want to be.

Thanks for sharing your report!! ^