First time to Paris. While much time will be spent walking and visiting popular attractions, some time will be spent elsewhere.
What is proper dress for the opera? We are staying a couple blocks from Opera Garnier and (if I understand the french language website), the Marriage of Figaro is being presented. Cheap seats are only €7. What does one wear in the cheap seats at the opera? Mrs BamaVol does not own white gloves. :D Ballet at the Opera House; same dress code as the opera?
We will not be splurging on Michellin rated restaurants, but will sit for meals at places other than fast food. What would be considered proper dress. I'm not trying to impress anyone, I just don't want to be refused admission or stared at because we're the only people in ripped jeans and Nikes.
We'd like to go to a jazz club at least one night. Dress code?
EWC-JMU
Feb 20, 06, 7:18 pm
BamaVol, I can't comment on the dress code at the Opera Garnier specifically. However, if I was going, I would wear what I normally would to a similar performance here in the States.
For your second question, I think if you stick to "non Michelin rated" places as you say, you'll be fine. I can think of only one restaurant I went in my last time in Paris where I would have felt uncomfortable turning up in jeans. The name of that place escapes me now, but it is a fairly upscale restaurant specializing in seafood on Av. New York near Pont d'Alma. And since I was channeling Johnny Cash and wearing pretty much nothing but black that trip, I was fine.
wideman
Feb 21, 06, 5:45 am
You won't be turned away from anywhere; the only problem with substandard dress is how self-consciuos you might feel.
Paris, like the States, is a great deal less formal than it was 20 or 30 years ago. People in their 50s and 60s are likely to go to the opera or to a restaurant in suits and dresses; younger people are likely to dress more informally. However -- and this is an enormous however -- even informally-dressed Parisians tend to take great care with their appearance, generally far more than do Americans (or most other Western cultures, except for Italians). The jeans may be ripped, but they're ripped exactly just so, and the accessories and hair styles are complementary. And the details. Yeah, they're wearing running shoes (or footwear that looks like running shoes), but they just so happen to match perfectly with the shirt/blouse. And her lipstick matches her socks.
It's something Americans cannot possibly hope to replicate; we can only strive to look just a little bit better than we usually do and hope that the Parisians will say to themselves, "Alors, not bad for an American."
Oh, one more thing. A cheap seat at the Opera Garnier gets you either a chair upstairs or one of the "strapontins," or a folding seat downstairs. The former gives you a horribly obstructed view of the stage, and the latter lets you sit on one cheek while the other sort of falls off into the aisle.
willie--wonka
Feb 21, 06, 6:53 am
Same as above, with additiions:
Wear black.
All French women wear scarves all the time outdoors.
OttoGraham
Feb 21, 06, 7:04 am
Dress code?
Be sure the wife is in a burqa, and that the color of it is subdued. Black is preferable, and quite stylish. Here's a good example. (http://www.tribalelegance.net/black%20and%20white%20paktoon%20burqa.gif)
Oops! It's 2006, not 2016. Sorry. ;)
BamaVol
Feb 21, 06, 7:49 am
You won't be turned away from anywhere; the only problem with substandard dress is how self-consciuos you might feel.
...we can only strive to look just a little bit better than we usually do and hope that the Parisians will say to themselves, "Alors, not bad for an American."
Oh, one more thing. A cheap seat at the Opera Garnier gets you either a chair upstairs or one of the "strapontins," or a folding seat downstairs. The former gives you a horribly obstructed view of the stage, and the latter lets you sit on one cheek while the other sort of falls off into the aisle.
Thank you, all, especially wideman. I realize that we can only hope not to look like the rubes that we are. I was figuring on a business casual look for us men and Mrs BamaVol will probably take the lbd and uncomfortable shoes for nighttime activities. I appreciate the warning on the cheap seats. We will spring for something better than the 2 lowest admissions. The boys are still teenagers and cannot be expected to sit still that long in uncomfortable seats.
OttoGraham, I do see the seriousness of your commentary and will try not to pissoff anyone, even if they haven't attained majority status yet. We will not be touring La Grande mosquee de Paris, but neither will we be parading the avenues in short shorts and halter tops (too cold in March anyway).
EWC-JMU, I will pack my jeans in confidence. Thank you.
willie--wonka, I don't know if you are serious about the scarves. Can you point me to an example? If serious, Mrs BamaVol will be violating that fashion rule, as she never covers her hair.
sylvia hennesy
Feb 21, 06, 8:02 am
Scarves around the neck, tied in myriad ways (preferably silk or other good fabric), to accent an outfit. (NOT around the hair!) Long ones peeking from jacket lapels, short ones in just the right color to look breezy, etc. I would suggest that buying them in Paris is a nice shopping mission.
BamaVol
Feb 21, 06, 8:40 am
Scarves around the neck, tied in myriad ways (preferably silk or other good fabric), to accent an outfit. (NOT around the hair!) Long ones peeking from jacket lapels, short ones in just the right color to look breezy, etc. I would suggest that buying them in Paris is a nice shopping mission.
I'm not there yet, and already I look like the rube I am. :D
We are staying a couple blocks away from Galeries Lafayette & Printemps and had planned on shopping a little our first day. Good suggestion. I should have immediately realized how frumpy a scarf on the head looks.
burberrybrit
Feb 21, 06, 8:47 am
Scarves are my greatest accessory! Worn on the head as well as the neck. For the neck, I recommend on of those oversized shawls (cashmere, wool-viscoise blend, etc). I recently got one for only $2 since it had a tiny stain on it. It's a neutral color and goes with everything.
As far as a scarf around the head, I recommend a silk print (think Vera scarves) tied around the head like a headband with a chignon in the back. This is a classic style that will look fabulous on her.
And she probably can't go wrong with a fabulous hat a la Audrey Hepburn (Breakfast at Tiffany's) or Grace Kelly. I'm young, but I have an appreciation for the "old style." I think Europe is the only place they would get it :)
francophile
Feb 21, 06, 11:02 am
What is proper dress for the opera? We are staying a couple blocks from Opera Garnier and (if I understand the french language website), the Marriage of Figaro is being presented. Cheap seats are only €7. What does one wear in the cheap seats at the opera? Mrs BamaVol does not own white gloves. :D Ballet at the Opera House; same dress code as the opera?
Do you have tickets already? The website says it's sold out.
A couple of years ago, I spoke with the box office at the Opera Garnier. They told me that there are separate ticket inventories for the online ticket facility and the box office. So while website may say a performance is sold out, the box office may still have tickets. Try calling them and they can tell you:
Téléphones utiles / informations & réservations
> pour les spectateurs individuels
depuis l'étranger + 33 (1) 72 29 35 35
VA747
Feb 21, 06, 11:22 am
Last year we attended the ballet and symphony at Covent Garden in London...dress would have been the same for opera. We were in the stalls so people were more dressy than those at the very top of the opera house. I would say dress would be similar in Paris....."day into evening" dress for women or black suit, dressy fabric with pearls, etc. Men were without exception in suits....no blazers or casual dress with tie. Suits. BUT those heading up the stairs to the climb at the top were dressed very casually, most of them young in student-type clothes...women in nice dresses, but casual. My husband took a suit with him for performances we went to, knowing that anything casual would not work. You wouldn't need to worry about evening gloves except for a gala. In Europe black ALWAYS works....just dress it up a bit.
BamaVol
Feb 21, 06, 11:33 am
Do you have tickets already? The website says it's sold out.
A couple of years ago, I spoke with the box office at the Opera Garnier. They told me that there are separate ticket inventories for the online ticket facility and the box office. So while website may say a performance is sold out, the box office may still have tickets. Try calling them and they can tell you:
I just discovered the sold-out status. Tonight, I will discuss options with the family. Mrs BamaVol is a retired ballerina. A dance performance would be equally enjoyable for her, possibly more so. Not so sure about the boys. :rolleyes: If dance doesn't work, I will call the box office. I have read that tickets that are not picked up go on sale at the last minute, so that is another possibility.
edited to add: The boys did not seem to mind the substitution of ballet for opera. I have ordered tickets to be picked up at the box office for Tuesday night. I believe they are real seats, although the three of them could manage a stapontin as each weighs between 100 and 120 pounds. I, however, would be balanced on one cheek, despite my recent 13% weight loss. :)
aamilesslave
Feb 21, 06, 2:17 pm
Oh, one more thing. A cheap seat at the Opera Garnier gets you either a chair upstairs or one of the "strapontins," or a folding seat downstairs. The former gives you a horribly obstructed view of the stage, and the latter lets you sit on one cheek while the other sort of falls off into the aisle.
strapontins - one of my favorite French words :D :D :D
Be sure not to sit on the strapontins when the metro is packed.
anonplz
Feb 21, 06, 2:19 pm
Proper dress in Paris?
"Vous".
thesaints
Feb 21, 06, 2:29 pm
"Vous".
Ah! The redneck dictionary strikes again
thesaints
Feb 21, 06, 2:32 pm
strapontins - one of my favorite French words :D :D :D
Be sure not to sit on the strapontins when the metro is packed.
Strapontins are like those BE seats on Delta: they cannot accommodate an entire American.
francophile
Feb 22, 06, 8:29 pm
I just discovered the sold-out status. Tonight, I will discuss options with the family. Mrs BamaVol is a retired ballerina. A dance performance would be equally enjoyable for her, possibly more so. Not so sure about the boys. :rolleyes: If dance doesn't work, I will call the box office. I have read that tickets that are not picked up go on sale at the last minute, so that is another possibility.
Which ballet performance? Kylián / Lagraa / Teshigawara? That would my nightmare. I wonder which one is worse? Contemporary ballet or Chinese water torture? Oh wait, opera in English would be absoutely sheer he11.
I would highly recommend La Bayadère at the Opera Bastille. I've seen the Bolshoi perform it with choreography by Petipa. It's a beautiful ballet. The one at the Bastille is by Nouryev. Be prepared to be mesmerized.
venice4504
Feb 22, 06, 8:30 pm
Strapontins are like those BE seats on Delta: they cannot accommodate an entire American.
^ ;) ^
ILuvParis
Feb 22, 06, 8:40 pm
Your tops should match your Pumas.
jacob_m
Feb 23, 06, 11:40 am
strapontins - one of my favorite French words :D :D :D
Nice to see I'm not the only one who loves that word... :D
Not to recommend during rush hour though...
Regarding the initial question I would have to agree with some previous comments that Parisians do take good care of their looks and their clothes.
This does not mean wearing a suit or some kind of business attire all the time, jeans is fine, but you should always look proper and presentable.
French people almost never wear trainers, at least not white sports ones, so that's a no-no! Caps...another no-no!
What French people consider as being "casually dressed" is far from the same thing Americans consider as casual dress.
So as an American coming to Paris, if you don't want to stand out too much and get the "tourist treatment", do try to dress up a little bit and you will probably notice a much better attitude from the locals.
I don't mean this an offense, just my five cents since I live and work in Paris.
You can rarely be too over-dressed, and you always get more respect and a better treatment/service if you're nicely dressed and speak the language (at least a few words).
BamaVol
Feb 23, 06, 1:52 pm
Which ballet performance? Kylián / Lagraa / Teshigawara? That would my nightmare. I wonder which one is worse? Contemporary ballet or Chinese water torture? Oh wait, opera in English would be absoutely sheer he11.
I would highly recommend La Bayadère at the Opera Bastille. I've seen the Bolshoi perform it with choreography by Petipa. It's a beautiful ballet. The one at the Bastille is by Nouryev. Be prepared to be mesmerized.
Yes, modern dance! I don't want to miss seeing the interior of Opera Garnier and we've all been pretty heavily exposed to classical ballet. I like a little modern dance for a change (although sometimes I find the accompanying music awful). I've seen some incredible modern dance performances over the years although it's been a while - possibly because the last one I saw, the girls were nekkid! and Mrs BamaVol was a little nonplussed. I may still try for Opera tickets, too.
BamaVol
Feb 23, 06, 1:54 pm
Your tops should match your Pumas. Or, topless and barefoot is ok, too?
Actually, my boys are pretty stylish, in an MTV sort of way. I'm more worried about my own lack of sophistication. This may call for a pre-departure shopping trip.
Non-NonRev
Feb 24, 06, 8:33 am
As a rule in Europe, galas and (new production) premiers are quite dressy, but standatd (subscription) performancers are as detailed above.
It's a shame that the 'Figaro' was sold out. But not surprising, not only is it the Mozart 250 year, Opera National de Paris head Gerard Mortier is replacing the ancient Giorgio Stehler staging of Figaro with the stunning, modern character-driven Christopher Marthaler production that was first shown at the 2001 Salzburg Festival (with almost all of the 2001 cast intact). it would have been a wonderful introduction to opera as true music drama (instead of the powerded-wig waxworks that too often turns people off to opera, especially in the US).
Around the same time, a concert performance of L'Amour de Loin ('Love From Afar') is playing at the Chatelet, but I'd save that one for a staged production.