Trip Reports - Paris, France




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fscher
Jul 17, 04, 10:33 pm
Bonjour! I am in Paris now and have time to start my trip report. Belive me, it is not because there is down time. It is because it is 4:00 am and my family is asleep. My body still can't figure out what time it is and I am wide awake.

My 17 year old daughter and I left on Continental # 10 from Houston on Monday (July 12) to Paris. My husband has been on assignment in China for several months and flew here to meet us. The assignment has ended earlier than planned and he will fly home with us on our flight back to Houston. The brand new Hilton Arc De Triomphe is the hotel that we are staying at.

The flight left 15 minutes after schedule as Continental decided to wait for arriving passengers that would miss the flight due to their plane landing late. Due to Houston traffic and an accident on the freeway (nothing new here), we were lucky to get there on time. I had a limo service take us to the airport and we were picked up 3 hours before the scheduled flight. We arrived at the gate only 10 minutes before boarding started. It does not help that we left from Terminal E and that in itself feels like it is in another city after needing to check in at Terminal C.

Flight entertainment was a poor selection. The meal was a choice of chicken and rice or beef and noodles. The food was good and I took my ambien so that i could sleep and pass the time and boy did the time pass fast........I don't remember much of the next 12 hours (9 hour flight)! I really don't even remember getting to the hotel. Thank goodness my daughter is a seasoned travel brat and knew how to guide me. This was not the first time to take this prescribed drug for travel, but it is the first time the drug stayed with me after landing.

Check in at the hotel seemed to be smooth. We were placed into a room on the executive floor on the 7th floor. No upgrades to suites (Diamond), but upgraded to a view of the Eiffel Tower (Not, I-fell, but E-fell don't forget it is a hard "E" or they look at you like you fell off a turnip truck). I say "seemed" to be smooth because we went to unpack and discovered the ONLY 3 drawers in the small room could not open to put clothes into. The beautiful piece of furniture was so big that when the door to the unit opened, it would hit the foot of the bed at the half way point! The other side of the same unit was the mini bar. For three of us there were suitcases everywhere and living like this for 8 days was not a pleasant thought. There was hanging space. They showed us another room, but it was the SAME floorplan. If I sat on a chair near the window, and my husband was on the computer, I had to CLIMB ON THE BED to get over. There was no room to pass. After 24 hrs. of this they found another room for us on the 6th floor that was larger. Part was floorplan, part was that we settled for two full beds instead of two queens. Also the hair dryer in the first room had a 6" cord and only one side of your hair could be blown with ease. It would not stretch long enough to blow the other side. You had to turn backwards away from the mirror. Other guests mentioned the same thing. They are aware of the problem with the dressers and have new ones on order. There was no way of moving the dressers due to the cords attached to the tv and the bar and floorplan. Anyway, the new room is very nice, as is the hotel and staff! Location is really wonderful. NO COMPLAINTS!

Night one:
Walked about to get a feel for the area around the hotel, had the mandatory chocolate croissant and/or ice cream and fell asleep with no problems.

Day one:
Bastille Day! Huge parade with what seemed like zillions of people everywhere, both residents and tourists. Streets were blocked off and taking a taxi to the Eiffel Tower was not an option. Turned out to be a pleasant walk (maybe about 30 minute??) to get there. The line to go up was less than 20 minutes and the weather was PERFECT. We took a boat ride down the Seine and walked back to the hotel in the late afternoon. We were invited up to the terrace of a room at the hotel to watch firworks over the Eiffel Tower. Champagne was served and some desserts, too. There were about 100 guests there (I do not know if invitations were general invitations or for executive floor guests) and it was a nice show and great view. There is a sushi restaurant just a few steps from the Hilton and we ate there after the fireworks simply because it was so late by this time (11:00 pm) and was so convenient. Just as everywhere we have been, we ate outside.

Day two:
We took the subway to The Louve (1.40 E per person, per direction). The area for the Mona Lisa was very unorganized and pushing and shoving were overlooked by security. The "line" was not long as would have been expected (probably because there was no "line." While the Mona Lisa is a great piece of art, I was more impressed with many other paintings. Being in a museum with the world's largest collection in one place was awesome and of course there was no way to see it all, not even close to all. We ate lunch at the museum and then went to get some overpriced souvenirs at the shops around the corner from the Museum (in addition to the ones at the Museum). I did get a handpainted Limoge cup and saucer for my cup and saucer collection at a fair price. I had gasped at the price of the one cup at first. The owner explained that due to the value of the dollar, etc, that this set had been in his display for over one year. He discounted it greatly for me without my asking and I was a happy camper. I refuse to buy souvenirs from France that say "made in China," but that does not mean that my daughter didn't get a few of those kind for her friends. We went to the Ballet at the Granier Opera House that evening. The theater is spectacular and the staircase makes a lady feel like a lady. HOWEVER - just like Italy, the a/c is used in small doses and it was very warm inside.

Day three:

Disneyland Paris! We left the hotel about 11:00 and took the subway right up to the Disneyland park. Tickets of 46 Euros included roundtrip transportation and park entry. This has been the only bargain of the trip....BELIEVE ME! It is VERY expensive here at each and every turn. I am not talking about just Disney. The whole trip so far. The day was fun and all three of us enjoyed going. The sun was out all day and we called it quits about 8:00 or 9:00 pm and took the subway back.

Day four:
The "on and off" bus is a two decker bus (several buses) that is very easy to pick up in many locations. We paid about 22.00 Euros each and you can get "on and off" at scheduled stops whenever/wherever for two days. Crepes, Galleria Lafayette (serious (SERIOUS) shopping stop, Notre Dame (just the outside of it on this stop today for us) and one other stop took us til about 6:00 pm. By coincidence a friend of mine from Houston was in Paris and we planned on catching up at the stores near the Opera House after she toured the Louve. Once in the area we realized there was no way to find ANYONE without a VERY SPECIFIC SPOT due to size and volume of people EVERYWHERE. After giving up on the idea of meeting and heading out from the store.......we did find each other! Major rainstorms were scattered thoughout the day and evening. We walked down different streets to get back to the Hilton and another wonderful day found us up in the lounge to rest our feet before heading out for dinner. The lounge here is very nice. It is decorated in royal purple tones, has an outdoor area with a few tables, sitting area with a Plasma television, a counter area with barstools and tables scattered within. The food that is served is of superior quality and we have had breakfast in the executive lounge each morning (Diamond member HH).
Some of the "made in France" items that we got today: A wool beret & a Baccarat crystal necklace for my daughter, She bought magazines published in French that had tshirts packaged with them at the magazine stand for her friends (some fashion or teen magazine) as gifts, I got an assortment of small perfumes for some gifts that I needed (each box had 5 different perfumes in five pretty bottles that I will take out and make individual gifts from - much better than a keychain or magnet :) )

I think this brings me current on the trip so far. I am sure there is something missing, but I can add to it later.
Au Revoir for now.

***************
I want to mention that I always made the reservation for 3 people. I was not given a smaller room due to a reservation for 2. This is one of the reasons for not staying at the Hilton Paris that is closer to the Eiffel Tower. They have very few rooms for more than 2 people and none were available. While several FTer's report they always had three (due to a child or relative, etc), this was exactly the situation I never wanted knowing that all European rooms tend to be smaller (plus it is against fire code and most rules and procedures are for a reason).

Another random thought:
I have not noticed one French manicure on any French Women. Even though the residents in this area live in apartments or condos (I love the front doors!) they tend to be walking very large dogs for such housing - and very few French Poodles! I also have not seen a single slice of French Toast this week. What's up with that?

Off to enjoy our Sunday. Weather permitting: A picnic in the park!
Talk to you later.

**********************
Weather did NOT permit a picnic. We did eat a wonderful lunch in the Jewish area : A deli sandwich, a huge potato latke and a crustless quiche-stlye cheese dish. This place had a name close to Sacha Finkelstajn, but I don't remember exactly. It is in a yellow restaurant and you really must try it. Another Deli on the opposite side is where I purchased "real" Dejon mustard to take home for my father and also had a "real" drip-down-your-arm pickle from a barrel that was honestly as much a treat as the pastries that were in each window. This area was really neat. The Picasso museum is a few blocks over and we went in there, as well as a beautiful old church. The Hilton does NOT have a pool, or even an agreement to use another one. The sun did come out later in the day and lounging by a pool for a few hours would have been nice. We dropped off all the packages we accumulated for the day about 6:00 pm, had a snack in the lounge and headed back out. Because this was Sunday, it was hit or miss as to what was opened as far as all business - food establishments and retail/boutiques, etc.

My husband recognized Scotti Nguyen (champion poker player - seen on Travel Channel World Series of Poker) by the Hilton and found out there was a world poker tournament at the France Aviation Club. Marc went in at night for a short time to see what was going on while my daughter and I picked out a French cologne at the store on the next block for my son who did not join us on this trip. This was all on the Champs Elyesee and we did grab some pizza and croissants. The sky opened up once again and we were soaked by the time we walked back to the hotel after 10:30 pm.

We have been using the EYEWITNESS PARIS book and STREETWISE PARIS map that I purchased at Amazon.com. I have used these same series of travel items for other cities and I would recommend them to all of you. No need for more than one book when you have the EYEWITNESS book.

Another thing I noticed is that there is not any graffitti around in the areas we have been to. This was such a problem in Rome or I probably would not have thought about it one way or another.

We have two more full days and it does not look like we will make it to Normandy Beach. That tour is not offered at convenient times each day. The next one available is Tuesday and it is a full 12 hour tour. If this is something you are interested in, it is better to make it one of the first things on your itinerary.

**********************

Monday:
Even though this is day seven, it is the first full work day where real traffic was seen. The other days were still considered part of the extended Bastille Day Holiday and many businesses were closed. We went into stores on Rue Royal such as Dior, Gucci and Ralph Lauren. I made a few minor purchases, but mostly this was to look only. Maxims famous restaurant is only a block a way. Their sister "Minims" is next door and had a reasonable menu and we ate there for lunch. It was very good. The Louis Vuitton store is in another area and we made our way over there. They must have 50 employees all in uniform and the place is PACKED with customers. Our feet just failed all 3 of us today after hours of walking down and exploring new streets. We went back to the hotel at 5:30 with all intentions of going back out as we have each evening. Putting our intentions aside, we watched a DVD movie in the room and never left the hotel again. I have just read Dan's post about the top 10 things to do in Paris. I plan on going to the Travel Channel website now to see if they have those listed "just to make sure" that we have covered the basics as we only have one more day in the great city of lights!
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diana
Jul 18, 04, 1:21 am
Thanks for the report. Have you had any of the water problems which have previously plagued other guests?

fscher
Jul 18, 04, 3:35 am
Thanks for the report. Have you had any of the water problems which have previously plagued other guests?


No, we have not. The first day I did not think I had hot water and that was the first thing I thought of until it took a few minutes to find that there is a little button to push on the faucet that is for safety. You must push it in to turn the facuet more to get hot (hotter) water.


Peab0dy
Jul 18, 04, 10:24 am
<big snip>

Another random thought:
I have not noticed one French manicure on any French Women. Even though the residents in this area live in apartments or condos (I love the front doors!) they tend to be walking very large dogs for such housing - and very few French Poodles! I also have not seen a single slice of French Toast this week. What's up with that?

...

Nice sense of humor. Fun ending to an informative post! :)

ctkathy
Jul 19, 04, 9:36 am
***************
I want to mention that I always made the reservation for 3 people. I was not given a smaller room due to a reservation for 2. This is one of the reasons for not staying at the Hilton Paris that is closer to the Eiffel Tower. They have very few rooms for more than 2 people and none were available. While several FTer's report they always had three (due to a child or relative, etc), this was exactly the situation I never wanted knowing that all European rooms tend to be smaller (plus it is against fire code and most rules and procedures are for a reason).

**********************[/QUOTE]


Great report. Recently stayed at the Paris Eiffel Tower Hilton, two rooms for 5 people. One king and one with two beds, adjoining. The two-bedded room also accommodated a roll-away bed for our third teen. Our reservation stated two in each room, but we arrived with three for one room and there wasn't a problem at all. Both rooms had a balcony and I thought the size of both rooms was generous for Paris. I look forward to trying the Arc de Triomphe property one day.

dhammer53
Jul 19, 04, 2:16 pm
Nice report. Last night the Travel Channel had the top 10 things to do in Paris. So after watching that, and reading this... I'm almost ready to go back.

Did you walk the Marais?

BTW, we're off to Prague and Vienna is August. I'll post then.

Regards y'all. ;)

Lauren54
Jul 19, 04, 8:38 pm
Am going to Paris in December (eldest child studying abroad) will have 3 kids ages 18-21. What did your teen like best about Paris? I want to make sure my kids get to some things they would like - I know museums are not at the top of their lists. BTW 2 girls, 1 boy.
Also, any "reasonably" (ha-ha) priced restaurants they would like would be appreciated. We are staying at the Marriott Champs Elysee and plan to stay pretty much in Paris.
Thanks
Lauren

fscher
Jul 20, 04, 2:57 pm
Lauren:
First let me say that we leave tomorrow and the 8 days flew by!
This morning my daughter and I both went to get our hair cut and colored (she got hers highlighted for the first time ever) and then the 3 of us found the food market area where the locals get their meat, seafood and vegetables, etc. Don't know what else we did, but now it is 10:00 pm and the trip is over.

I just asked my daughter to name the top three things:
Believe it or not, Disneyland was her #1. She also named the on and off bus as her favorite way to see many things in a short time and she LOVED shopping, eating and people watching on the Champs Elyesee. Her word for the Eiffel Tower was "amazing" and overall I am thrilled with her reaction to everything. She was never bored (only tired), not even at museums. I truly think the age of your 3 is perfect to appreciate not only Paris, but just the opportunity that they have in experiencing such travel! We are heading home on Continental Airlines tomorrow and another wonderful trip is over!

wideman
Jul 24, 04, 6:31 am
Terrific report, fscher. It's always great to see a favorite city through someone else's eyes.

I also have not seen a single slice of French Toast this week. What's up with that?

The stuff that we call French toast is called pain perdu (literally, "lost bread") in France. It's generally made only with bread that has turned hard and stale, so you're not likely to find it on a restaurant menu.

skye
Jul 24, 04, 6:11 pm
An upbeat and interesting writing style. GREAT report! :)

NJFlyGuy
Jul 24, 04, 9:36 pm
Great report! I was actually in Paris for a couple of days in late May; obviously, I needed at least double that, if not more. Paris is expensive, and the Euro has made things more expensive for foreigners across mainland Europe, but I really didn't find Paris that much worse than New York cost-wise. Paris certainly isn't as bad as London.

I'm curious - Parisians have a rep for being less than hospitable, if not downright rude and hostile, to non-French speakers, Americans in particular. I speak only a few words of French yet didn't have any problems at all, although I was only in Paris for a couple of days. Yet others I know, including my parents, have experienced such difficulties while in Paris. Did you or your family have any problems in this regard?

fscher
Jul 24, 04, 9:51 pm
No, we did not experience this. There were one or two rude waiters, but Not towards us as Americans. They just had that type of personality. Everyone we encountered was very nice and we do not speak French. We tried a few words here and there and most people were pleased we tried. Somehow we managed to communicate by pointing, pictures or just luck if the other person did not speak English.

As far as expense, you are right. We live in Houston where the cost of living is very reasonable. If I lived up North or East we would be used to the higher costs.

1P
Jul 25, 04, 2:32 am
I also have not seen a single slice of French Toast this week. What's up with that?

Ho ho. The same reason that you won't see an "English muffin" in England. ;)

NJFlyGuy
Jul 25, 04, 9:59 am
No, we did not experience this. There were one or two rude waiters, but Not towards us as Americans. They just had that type of personality. Everyone we encountered was very nice and we do not speak French. We tried a few words here and there and most people were pleased we tried. Somehow we managed to communicate by pointing, pictures or just luck if the other person did not speak English.

As far as expense, you are right. We live in Houston where the cost of living is very reasonable. If I lived up North or East we would be used to the higher costs.

I had an experience with rude restaurant waiters too, but it was in Rome and not in Paris. The one night I ate out in Paris, the wait staff actually spoke quite good English.

RChavez
Aug 9, 04, 9:20 pm
We are staying at the Marriott Champs Elysee and plan to stay pretty much in Paris.


I think you will be pleased with your stay here. I recently took my mother and younger brother to Paris in January, and we stayed at this hotel. The rooms are very generously sized for Paris, and fit the three of us quite comfortably. The location was nice to launch from, though not quite as neighborhoody as St. Germain or the Latin Quarter.

There was a restaurant we ate at our first or second night in Paris that was right on the Champs Elysees...the name is currently escaping me, but it begins with an F if I recall correctly. This was one of our favorite meals of the trip. But I believe it is on corner of the same street as the LV boutique that was(is?) under renovation.

As for Parisian friendliness, I found everyone to be quite friendly and gracious on my first trip with my mother & brother. However, in a later trip in April, we managed to have one of my worst meals ever at Maison Rouge in Le Marais. This second trip seemed to be speckled with dining experiences ranging from the mediocre to the downright rude. While I am always the one who always excuses even the rudest of service in the name of peace and optimism, I found myself having difficulty excusing their behavior, and even leaving the table on three separate instances to speak with the manager about our meal. In all fairness, the manager did send over a complimentary round of champagne to apologize, but while I appreciated the gesture, didn't quite erase the memory. But before I pass complete judgement, I shall give it another try next time I'm in Paris....though with great reservation.

Fortunately, the following evening we dined at Georges at Le Centre Pompidou, which did wonders to restore my faith in the humanity of the French service staff. :) I highly recommend this restaurant, if not only for the cuisine, but for the decor and the views. We were seated at a corner table with views of Notre Dame and la Tour Eiffel in the distance. One of my more memorable meals in Paris.

luxury
Aug 10, 04, 1:11 am
RChavez, I believe the restaurant you are referring to is Fouquet's, on the Champs Elysee and Avenue George V? There are so many great restaurants in Paris but some of the more moderately priced ones I like are:

Chez Henri, Moulin au Vent -- a left bank classic
Quincy -- out in the 10th but a great great Parisian experience
Cafe de la Paix -- in the Le Grand Hotel Inter-Continental, by the Opera Garnier -- fabulously refurbished and the food has improved.
Chez Georges, Rue du Mail -- another great communal atmosphere.... lots of fun and solid cooking
Chez Pierre, a la Fontaine Gaillon -- near the OPera Garnier, a charming little restaurant with a decorative fountain in front of the restaurant.

VERY touristy but Bofinger at Place de la Bastille, Le Deux Magots in St. German de Pres, La Coupole in Montparnasse are great experiences also.....

Going for a lunch at a Michelin starred restaurant is also such a treat -- and the experience need not be so expensive and stuffy. Jamin, in the 16th has a great deal for lunch, I believe 3 half courses, plus dessert for about 50 Euro and is a Michelin 2 star restaurant. The chef used to be Joel Robuchon's right hand man. Very elegant surroundings, not stuffy, and the staff speak a reasonable amount of English.....

For teens, they might be interested in seeing the Catacombs in Denfert-Rochereau, a RER or Metro stop I believe not too far away from Montparnasse -- basically very deep underground one can see the stacks of bones piled up when cemetaries were demolished and bodies exhumed in the name of development in Paris.... fascinating, if not slightly macabre, but something teens may like.

The D'Orsay Museum is great especially if you like Impressionist works; Montmartre is great at night, where the scene really starts at about 11:00pm -- lots of street entertainment, cafes, and a great sense of fun.

Strolling about the Marais and in the small streets of the Left Bank, especially in around St. Germain de Pres, le Quartier Latin, is fascinating.

For young people, there are some great clubs in Paris, especially just north of the Bastille. There are many great jazz clubs as well as the iconic Buddha Bar and Man Ray.

I hope you all enjoy your trips to Paris -- I was just there in July and I already want to go back.... maybe this Fall.....

Cheers,



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