Argentina - Buenos Aires (EZE) - the ultimate Q&A thread

Yes, the English version seems to be down, I guess they are stil working on it. Ive sent the webmaster an email and will get back to you guys once I get a response.

To buy a copy of the guide (which is printed in English as well as Spanish), you can send an email to the following address:

ventas@australspectator.com

I'm traveling to Buenos Aires and Argentina for two weeks in November. I've been combing through all the airline schedules for flights into and out of Buenos Aires to destinations around the country.

My travel agent in BA wants me to book all my flights on Aerolineas Argentinas before I get there. Is this a smart idea? I know there are other airlines that are less expensive, LADE and American Falcon & others, but my agent says she cannot book. Should I wait and book when I arrive?

My research show that flights booked and ticketed in Argentina are cheaper, but I want to have the most flexibility. What are the chances the flights will sell out? Do prices fluctuate dramatically? My agent said that Aerolineas Argentinas doesn't charge fees to change flights, whereas Southern Wind charges $25 per change.

Also, anyone have an opinion on visiting Cordoba?

That's a great question! My experience has been Areolineas Argentina charges US residents double to triple what they charge Argentines. Southern Winds charges the same for all thier passengers, their prices are typically 30% to 50% less than their overprice competitor. You can book your own flights on thier website, they do electronic tickets too whereas Aerolineas will charge you 20 bucks to ship you paper tickets. I don't know about the other carriers down there. I flew SW once this year, from Aeroparque in Bs. As. to Iguazu, the service was fine, the aircraft were in good shape. I'd compare them to Southwest in the US on those characteristics. You may be able to wait until you get down there to book flights, I have no idea how their loads run or how flexible your schedule will be.

http://www.sw.com.ar/

I'm traveling to Buenos Aires and Argentina for two weeks in November. I've been combing through all the airline schedules for flights into and out of Buenos Aires to destinations around the country.

My travel agent in BA wants me to book all my flights on Aerolineas Argentinas before I get there. Is this a smart idea? I know there are other airlines that are less expensive, LADE and American Falcon & others, but my agent says she cannot book. Should I wait and book when I arrive?

My research show that flights booked and ticketed in Argentina are cheaper, but I want to have the most flexibility. What are the chances the flights will sell out? Do prices fluctuate dramatically? My agent said that Aerolineas Argentinas doesn't charge fees to change flights, whereas Southern Wind charges $25 per change.

Also, anyone have an opinion on visiting Cordoba?

Looks like you are also from New York City where I too reside. I enclosed a quote from a post found on page 15--you might talk to Eduardo, he's from BA. Maybe he has some good advice.

"You can pay $620 (tax included) for round trip tickets on Aerolineas Argentinas from JFK to EZE to JFK--economy class. 2K for First Class. Just call Zamar Travel--where I bought my tickets at. Ask for Eduardo Quevedo--he's from Buenos Aires. They have offices in Jackson Heights, Queens and BA.

Zamar Travel
Eduardo Quevedo
37-51 75th St.
Jackson Heights, NY. 11372
(718) 779-1270
Fax (718) 898-3151

Buenos Aires Location:
Esmeralda 740
Piso 10, Suite 1001
393-2079
fax 393-2079"

As a soccer-playing friend of mine from Gaucho's neck of the woods told me, "the only reason to fly Aerolineas Argentina is for the better-looking stewardesses". ;)

As a soccer-playing friend of mine from Gaucho's neck of the woods told me, "the only reason to fly Aerolineas Argentina is for the better-looking stewardesses". ;)

Well.... AR stewardesses are better looking than your average UA or AA prison matron, alas - they are not what they used to be.

In any event, AR long haul from North America in Business Class is still better than what you will get these days on UA or AA - so if you can forget about the mileage issues then Aerolineas is actually an option.

. . . so if you can forget about the mileage issues . . .

Blasphemy! ;)

Blasphemy! ;)

Please note I did say " if "..... :D

Does anyone have any info on this hotel? We will be in BA 31/10 - 4/11 and they have an opening special of US$80 a night (plus 21% tax). The hotel opened on 7/10/04 and is on dique 2 of Puerto Madero. The website is www.hotelmadero.com

We were also looking at the Bobo hotel in Palermo - we figured that twe would always need to get a cab to go into town. The website is: www.bobohotel.com

Thanks for any feedback!!!

Gaucho100K, on Dining Buzz you give the impression that you've eaten at one of Dolly Irigoyen's restaurants. I sent you a private message about this which you read on Saturday but to which you did not respond.

I contacted the chief concierges at Alvear Palace and Park Hyatt in BsAs and they tell me Dolly Yrigoyen doesn't have a restaurant and has never owned a restaurant anywhere. I contacted the station that produced her cooking shows and they tell me that she doesn't have a restaurant and that she never did own one. I'm puzzled, where did you eat? I've copied your Dining Buzz post to show others because you go into a bit of detail as well. Please let me know the name and address of the restaurant. Thanks, Ciao :)

Gaucho100K, on Dining Buzz you give the impression that you've eaten at one of Dolly Irigoyen's restaurants. I sent you a private message about this which you read on Saturday but to which you did not respond.

I contacted the chief concierges at Alvear Palace and Park Hyatt in BsAs and they tell me Dolly Yrigoyen doesn't have a restaurant and has never owned a restaurant anywhere. I contacted the station that produced her cooking shows and they tell me that she doesn't have a restaurant and that she never did own one. I'm puzzled, where did you eat? I've copied your Dining Buzz post to show others because you go into a bit of detail as well. Please let me know the name and address of the restaurant. Thanks, Ciao :)

Bluewatersail, you are correct. I must clarify the information I posted before because it was not accurate.

The place in question is Espacio Dolly. It is in fact an operation that is not open to the public (I was made aware of this fact just yesterday). I apologize for posting this misleading information. I have been invited to Espacio Dolly on two occassions, as part of my dealings with the F&B trade - and wrongly assumed that this was a venue that one could have access to simply by reserving a table. This is not the case, so unless you can get the trade connection, dining here as part of a regular visit to Buenos Aires will not be an option.

Sorry for the confusion caused - I will head over to Dining Buzz to correct the misleading information.

anyone have any recommenations for a spanish school or tutors? i will be in ba for the first 2 weeks of november. so far, the list of schools i have are the folllowing:

1) centro de estudio del espanol (cedic)
2) instituto de lengua espanola para extranjeros (ilee)
3) international bureau of language (ibl)

any advice regarding the above or new suggestions would be appreciated :)

chao!

I will be on a personal holiday and will be traveling solo. Is there anyone visiting or local FTers that might be interested in getting together for coffee, a meal, touring, etc.?

I have tentative plans to visit BA from Nov. 10-15 and Santiago, Chile from Nov. 15-17. I may also visit Iguazu Falls or Colonia during my stay.

Anybody have any comments on the Golden Tulip Savoy Hotel near the Obelisco?

Thanks for all the great information on BA in this thread. It will make my upcoming trip all the more rewarding. Please feel free to PM me. Thanks!

I like Rioplatense, it's really unique. Can anyone give a short list of words that are peculiar to BsAs and not heard elsewhere? Words that might confuse an unsuspecting visitor.

Also, Alejandro you might be able to answer this. I was in a car on a toll road approaching BsAs. Traffic slowed to a crawl as we approached the tollbooth/peaje. Suddenly cars started honking and people stopped paying the toll, everyone drove through without paying. What was that all about?

CAPreppie you must be ware of the +/-21% room tax that your hotel will charge you in BsAs. I heard some North Americans moaning and groaning about the tax because they were not aware of it.

The room tax in Chile is like 19% but as a tourist they'll take a copy of your passport and you will not have to pay the tax.

I'm heading to EZE on Friday (thank you, AABOS promotion!) with two friends (we're all twenty-something guys). Gotta say, this thread is just awesome. Answered most of my questions, but want to see if there is any final advice. Also, I saw some mention of the new Ibis earlier in the thread, but has anyone reading stayed there? Thanks.

CAPreppie you must be ware of the +/-21% room tax that your hotel will charge you in BsAs. I heard some North Americans moaning and groaning about the tax because they were not aware of it.

The room tax in Chile is like 19% but as a tourist they'll take a copy of your passport and you will not have to pay the tax.

Please note that Argentina has a 21% VAT which is usually included in the price of all goods sold. However, sometimes prices are quoted at $XXX + VAT. Hotel fares are subject to other taxes (as in many other parts of the world) - airline tickets are another example. Make sure you are not mixing up these taxes.... they are not the same.

I am going on an organised tour of Argentina. I have the first Sunday at leisure in BA and want to book a trip to see Gaucho on the Pampas. What company does such trips? Any ideas?

I am going on an organised tour of Argentina. I have the first Sunday at leisure in BA and want to book a trip to see Gaucho on the Pampas. What company does such trips? Any ideas?

http://www.tangol.com/ENG/buenos_aires.asp

My wife like most women isn't sure what to wear. We will be going to Buenos Aires over Thanksgiving. What should women wear for sightseeing, dining out, and the evening shows? Thanks.

Jim

My wife like most women isn't sure what to wear. We will be going to Buenos Aires over Thanksgiving. What should women wear for sightseeing, dining out, and the evening shows? Thanks.

Jim

Hello Jim, welcome to FT and thank you for visiting Argentina. We are happy you chose to come and hope you have a great stay.

Buenos Aires is rather European in its dress code. Sightseeing is entirely up to the tourist, with the exception of visits to some Churches and other official buildings, where very very casual clothing may be noted and could possibly inconvenience entrance.

In terms of dining out and evening shows, dress code rules is the same as in most Western Capitals, although like Ive said above the European influence means that Ladies will usually dress up to go and and attend shows/theater. No need to go full gown unless its a Gala function of sorts, but I would not use shorts & tank tops for anything after 6-7pm.

Hope this helps...

Cheers,
Gaucho

Also, I saw some mention of the new Ibis earlier in the thread, but has anyone reading stayed there? Thanks.

The Ibis was one of two hotels I stayed at in BA a couple weeks ago. One of these days when I have more time I'll do a more complete trip report of my first visit to the city (Wow!), but for the meantime...the Ibis specifically.....

Incredibly cheap. 81 pesos per night. Nice view of the plaza in front of the hotel. VERY comfortable bed. Like a futon. Small room, and not much storage space, but we made it work. Not much shelf space in the bathroom to store "products." Very helpful people at the front desk. Will make lunch and dinner reservations for you all over town.

(BTW, Thanks to whoever recommended Parilla 1880 on Defensa, San Telmo-ish. GREAT!)

What sucked about the Ibis was the very thin walls and connecting room doors. You will not be happy if you have folks next door to you who are loud. If you are loud, you'll piss off the neighbors VERY easily. Room temperature. When we were there it was very warm for early spring (so I thought) and the building apparently can only offer heat OR air conditioning. It was still on heat when we were there. Even with the window open (it doesn't open much) we sometimes broiled at night.

Finally, upon arrival, I left them with 5 shirts to send out for pressing. Only 4 came back. They were helpful in trying to find out what happened and made steps to try to recover my shirt, but didn't seem overly sympathetic. They knew I was extremely pissed off about losing that shirt.

While in Buenos Aires, should I bother with exchanging money? Or should I just bring US $$?

While in Buenos Aires, should I bother with exchanging money? Or should I just bring US $$?

I suggest you bring US$ cash (so you dont have to pay ATM fees). However, please do exchange your Dollars for Pesos, but dont do so at the airport or the hotel. Go to a money changer where you will get the best possible rate - check with your hotel concierge who will be able to give you directions to the nearest one.

I suggest you bring US$ cash (so you dont have to pay ATM fees). However, please do exchange your Dollars for Pesos, but dont do so at the airport or the hotel. Go to a money changer where you will get the best possible rate - check with your hotel concierge who will be able to give you directions to the nearest one.

If he's a Citibank N.A. customer can't he use the Citibank Argentina ATMs for no charge and get the best exchange rate?

If he's a Citibank N.A. customer can't he use the Citibank Argentina ATMs for no charge and get the best exchange rate?

No charge ATM usage will depend on each individual agreement with your bank. You are right that Citibank does offer no fee ATM usage in some locations - and yes, the FX rate is usually quite good. There are enough Citibank branches around Buenos Aires so finding one should not be a problem.

I suggest you bring US$ cash (so you dont have to pay ATM fees). However, please do exchange your Dollars for Pesos, but dont do so at the airport or the hotel. Go to a money changer where you will get the best possible rate - check with your hotel concierge who will be able to give you directions to the nearest one.


How much are ATM fees on average, not including any fees my own bank would charge?

How much are ATM fees on average, not including any fees my own bank would charge?
I used to haul a ton of cash with me, enough to pay for all my daily expenses. But after a couple of trips down there I decided that the 2 or 3 percent that I might save trading on the black market wasn't worth the stress of traveling with $1,000 or more in cash. Now I take a 1 or 2 hundred in US $, plus whatever pesos I have left over from my last trip (note that they also use $ to indicate pesos, or sometimes AR $). I pay for as much as I can with credit cards, and withdraw cash from ATMs 3 or 4 hundred pesos at a time. The fees I pay are usually 2 dollars per transaction when you combine my bank with the ATM's bank fees. To me its worth the extra 20 or 30 bucks per trip to not have to deal with the stress of carrying all that cash and dealing with the black market traders.

the 2 or 3 percent that I might save trading on the black market wasn't worth the stress

I agree.. I've travelled Argentina and South America extensively and have always found an ATM machine (not particularly Citibank - as I don't have an account with them) to be plentiful. The exchange rate was always very competitive and it allowed me to roam freely and get better pricing than paying by CC some of the times.

Though if you travel to Brazil, there is only bank that I've found works (I can't remember it but it had a red symbol - not HSBC, but could be Santander) so be prepared to try every banks ATM.

With regards to the greenback, mostly everywhere they'll accept them in Argentina, but I've found only one or two stores that gave a better exchange if paying with it. Though many ATM's in Buenos Aires still allow you to withdraw US$.

cheers, and hope this helps.

Hi-
This is a classic gringo question - but.....

I'm down in BsAs for around one week every two months or so. But, I haven't been down yet during this NFL football season. Are there any bars in BsAs that show American Football? I'm assuming World Sport Cafe and Loco por Futbol in Recoleta do not - but I don't know for sure.

Any ideas?

Sorry to get a bit off topic here, but to those of you currently living or staying in BsAs for an extended period of time, there is currently a great $349 USD ($483 USD all taxes in) fare from EZE-CPT (Capetown, South Africa) on Malaysia Airlines. You won't find it on most usual travel sites such as Expedia, etc. , but at this Travelocity clone Despegar.com (http://www.ar.despegar.com/paginas/be2/bebusquedavuelos.asp) The fare is good for all of November with outbound and returns on either Sundays or Wednesdays.

Unfortunately, I usually spend my winters in BsAs beginning at the end of December, so it looks like I'll miss travelling to yet another great wine country. Perhaps, Sr. Gaucho would like to extend his wine business a bit further afield?

billycwhatup, I believe World Sports Cafe in Recoleta does show the games. Locos sometimes, depending if there are not any important matches they might put up a screen or two on football. This is what I remember from about 2 years ago when I was living there..

the other option might be Hard Rock Cafe bar area, but from what I remember it's a little unpredictable on what games they will show.

other than these I don't know of any.. maybe others can try and comment.

Sorry to get a bit off topic here, but to those of you currently living or staying in BsAs for an extended period of time, there is currently a great $349 USD ($483 USD all taxes in) fare from EZE-CPT (Capetown, South Africa) on Malaysia Airlines. You won't find it on most usual travel sites such as Expedia, etc. , but at this Travelocity clone Despegar.com (http://www.ar.despegar.com/paginas/be2/bebusquedavuelos.asp) The fare is good for all of November with outbound and returns on either Sundays or Wednesdays....


Thanks for posting this. I have problems looking for MIA-EZE-MIA (in Nov. 2004):
1. mostly all in Spanish,
2. it looks like I have to register(?)

Also, LAN Peru had some cheap flights MIA-EZE ... they are all gone
Also taxes etc. are now US$112 (from $72)

My daughter (aged mid-20's) is thinking about booking a week at the Holiday Inn Express PUERTO MADERO at AVENIDA LEANDRO N. ALEM 770 in BA next Easter week. Does anyone have experience at this hotel or can comment or offer advice! How about the location for safety? Thanks.

billycwhatup, I believe World Sports Cafe in Recoleta does show the games. Locos sometimes, depending if there are not any important matches they might put up a screen or two on football. This is what I remember from about 2 years ago when I was living there..

the other option might be Hard Rock Cafe bar area, but from what I remember it's a little unpredictable on what games they will show.

other than these I don't know of any.. maybe others can try and comment.

Thanks! I'll try it next weekend and report back.

Hard Rock Cafe will be a strike out for watching games more often than not. No way to get a high-speed streaming video of the game over the internet?

Hard Rock Cafe will be a strike out for watching games more often than not. No way to get a high-speed streaming video of the game over the internet?


No, radio broadcast only (which is my fallback plan). Thanks.

Thanks! Just got back, and Ibis was awesome for the price (US$27/night).

Also, haven't seen anyone mention it, so I need to put in a good word for Tequila, a club next to Pacha (not sure the neighborhood, somewhere up north though). Crazy good young dance club, and 80% off prices at a comparable club in NYC. Don't hit the disco ball while drunk though, or they will kick you out.


The Ibis was one of two hotels I stayed at in BA a couple weeks ago. One of these days when I have more time I'll do a more complete trip report of my first visit to the city (Wow!), but for the meantime...the Ibis specifically.....

Incredibly cheap. 81 pesos per night. Nice view of the plaza in front of the hotel. VERY comfortable bed. Like a futon. Small room, and not much storage space, but we made it work. Not much shelf space in the bathroom to store "products." Very helpful people at the front desk. Will make lunch and dinner reservations for you all over town.

(BTW, Thanks to whoever recommended Parilla 1880 on Defensa, San Telmo-ish. GREAT!)

What sucked about the Ibis was the very thin walls and connecting room doors. You will not be happy if you have folks next door to you who are loud. If you are loud, you'll piss off the neighbors VERY easily. Room temperature. When we were there it was very warm for early spring (so I thought) and the building apparently can only offer heat OR air conditioning. It was still on heat when we were there. Even with the window open (it doesn't open much) we sometimes broiled at night.

Finally, upon arrival, I left them with 5 shirts to send out for pressing. Only 4 came back. They were helpful in trying to find out what happened and made steps to try to recover my shirt, but didn't seem overly sympathetic. They knew I was extremely pissed off about losing that shirt.

Don't hit the disco ball while drunk though, or they will kick you out.

Do you speak from experience?

My daughter (aged mid-20's) is thinking about booking a week at the Holiday Inn Express PUERTO MADERO at AVENIDA LEANDRO N. ALEM 770 in BA next Easter week. Does anyone have experience at this hotel or can comment or offer advice! How about the location for safety? Thanks.
We stayed at the H.I.E. two nights last November. The hotel was nice and clean. The service was good. We walked in the area both day and night and never feared for our safety. The hotel is only a block or so North of Alicia Moreau de Justo. This street has a nice wide pedestrian walk which is lined with many nice restaurants. A cab ride to surrounding tourist areas was less than $4 USD to the best of my recollection.

My friend's. Fortunately not mine (I stayed somewhat sober, he went back a second time). Apparently they also demanded A$300 if he wanted to get back in.

Do you speak from experience?

Thanks! Just got back, and Ibis was awesome for the price (US$27/night).

Also, haven't seen anyone mention it, so I need to put in a good word for Tequila, a club next to Pacha (not sure the neighborhood, somewhere up north though). Crazy good young dance club, and 80% off prices at a comparable club in NYC. Don't hit the disco ball while drunk though, or they will kick you out.

Costanera is the name of the "neighborhood"/area. It is beyond Aeroparque Jorge Newberry (mostly domestic airport).

I had a party held for me at Tequila a couple of years back and ended up being introduced to a very attractive television host who was unfortunately sporting a ring on her finger at the time. Pacha is too young and too alternative to be my cup of tea, but it is where people still gravitate to afterhours (by Argentine standards). I am glad you had a great time there. If you could tell us more about the Ibis hotel, it would be most appreciated by the FT community.

We stayed at the H.I.E. two nights last November. The hotel was nice and clean. The service was good. We walked in the area both day and night and never feared for our safety. The hotel is only a block or so North of Alicia Moreau de Justo. This street has a nice wide pedestrian walk which is lined with many nice restaurants. A cab ride to surrounding tourist areas was less than $4 USD to the best of my recollection.

Your recollection is still correct. :)

The Holiday Inn Express Puerto Madero is decent but has strange smelling elevators on occassion. When first mentioning that a friend of mine was staying at the Holiday Inn Express Puerto Madero, my local friends told me they knew the hotel because it was the place where a prostitute killed some hotel guest. The one thing I know about the hotel is that they have free internet access in the business center and unlimited free local calls from the room. ^^

billycwhatup, I just remembered that there is a Hooter's place at the Village Recoleta second floor. From what I remembered they showed many NFL games. It's in the dead centre of the tourist area, in the same builduing with McDonald's and the Village Recoleta movie theatre.

Enjoy the games.

The Ibis rooms were what you expect from an Ibis hotel; there is a 'virtual room' tour on the main Ibis site, and that's what the room looks like. Rooms were clean, and the service was good; the staff spoke good English. They gave us an extra bed for free (there were three of us).

As for the neighborhood, it was on BA's equivalent of the DC Mall; an ok neighborhood, but not too much touristy stuff right there (but a 20 minute walk/ $1 cab ride to Calle Florida/Plaza de Mayo/Obelisque, and a $2 cab to Recoleta). Lots of cheap restaurants nearby. Basically, it is a good home base, but not well located for fun like, say Alvear Palace.


Costanera is the name of the "neighborhood"/area. It is beyond Aeroparque Jorge Newberry (mostly domestic airport).

I had a party held for me at Tequila a couple of years back and ended up being introduced to a very attractive television host who was unfortunately sporting a ring on her finger at the time. Pacha is too young and too alternative to be my cup of tea, but it is where people still gravitate to afterhours (by Argentine standards). I am glad you had a great time there. If you could tell us more about the Ibis hotel, it would be most appreciated by the FT community.

billycwhatup, I just remembered that there is a Hooter's place at the Village Recoleta second floor. From what I remembered they showed many NFL games. It's in the dead centre of the tourist area, in the same builduing with McDonald's and the Village Recoleta movie theatre.

Enjoy the games.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that fine ambassador of US culutre! Thanks!

Hi:

I have FF tickets into EZE and out of SCL. We'd like to spend a few days in BA, go to Igauzu, and then do the lake crossing to Chile and head up to SCL. I am uncertain how to make arrangements for flights and accomodations (we are short on time and will not use rent a car, so there will be several flights). Is there a reputable travel agent in BA that you would recommend?

Thanks

Wow, this thread is amazing!

My BF and I are planning a trip to EZE in late Jan / early Feb. I know some people like to "wing it" and get their hotels at the last minute, but I don't enjoy traveling like that. I like to know where I'm going/staying!

We're thinking of the following itinerary:

Fly in early day 1
3 nights in EZE (Crowne Plaza)
early day 4, fly to Punta Del Esta (on Aerolinas Argentinas)
1 night in P.d.E (Conrad Hilton)
Bus to Montevideo on day 5
1 night in MVD (Radisson)
Late day 6, bus to Colonia
1 night in Colonia (hotel TBD)
Late day 7, ferry to EZE
2 nights in EZE (Crowne Plaza again)
Fly home late day 9

Does this itinerary seem doable?

Are we spending too long in Colonia (we'll probably be spending about 24 hours there). I was concerned about making it a "day trip" between MVD and EZE, since then we would have to carry all of our luggage around.

Can anyone recommend a hotel there (I realize most people just do day trips there). Air con is a must, and we will not have a car.

Thanks!

Not sure about Colonia, but there is almost nothing to do in MVD unless you have a specific reason for being there. The old city only takes an hour or so to walk around, and there isn't much else that begins to compare to the stuff in EZE. You might want to just to a quick stopover in MVD on the way to Colonia, and go elsewhere in Argentina with the extra day.


Wow, this thread is amazing!

My BF and I are planning a trip to EZE in late Jan / early Feb. I know some people like to "wing it" and get their hotels at the last minute, but I don't enjoy traveling like that. I like to know where I'm going/staying!

We're thinking of the following itinerary:

Fly in early day 1
3 nights in EZE (Crowne Plaza)
early day 4, fly to Punta Del Esta (on Aerolinas Argentinas)
1 night in P.d.E (Conrad Hilton)
Bus to Montevideo on day 5
1 night in MVD (Radisson)
Late day 6, bus to Colonia
1 night in Colonia (hotel TBD)
Late day 7, ferry to EZE
2 nights in EZE (Crowne Plaza again)
Fly home late day 9

Does this itinerary seem doable?

Are we spending too long in Colonia (we'll probably be spending about 24 hours there). I was concerned about making it a "day trip" between MVD and EZE, since then we would have to carry all of our luggage around.

Can anyone recommend a hotel there (I realize most people just do day trips there). Air con is a must, and we will not have a car.

Thanks!

Does this itinerary seem doable?

Thanks!

Personally, outside of staying in Buenos Aires, I'd only do a daytrip to Colonia via the fast ferry and spend a couple days in Iguazu, seeing the falls from both the Argentine and Brazilian sides. Travel to Iguazu via Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is relatively easy.

Personally, outside of staying in Buenos Aires, I'd only do a daytrip to Colonia via the fast ferry and spend a couple days in Iguazu, seeing the falls from both the Argentine and Brazilian sides. Travel to Iguazu via Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is relatively easy.

We were considering it, but to tell you the truth, neither of us have any real desire to see Iguazu. (I almost feel sheepish saying this, but) we are both more interested in experiencing urban areas -- I'm sure the falls are quite awe-inspiring, but I would rather spend my time having coffee on a crowded noisy sidewalk cafe, or shopping for things that I probably don't really need.

We're hitting Punta Del Este because we want to stay at the same hotel/casino that they gambled in on Amazing Race (sad, I know!).

If you're interested in experiencing urban areas, don't bother going to Colonia for 24 hours. And avoid Montevideo, there's nothing that exciting in this city. I'd suggest spending most of your time in Buenos Aires and spending,at least, 2 days in Punta del Este (great nightlife and great place for watersports). While you're in Buenos Aires, then take a day trip to Colonia but don't stay there, not really worth it.

We were considering it, but to tell you the truth, neither of us have any real desire to see Iguazu. (I almost feel sheepish saying this, but) we are both more interested in experiencing urban areas -- I'm sure the falls are quite awe-inspiring, but I would rather spend my time having coffee on a crowded noisy sidewalk cafe, or shopping for things that I probably don't really need.

We're hitting Punta Del Este because we want to stay at the same hotel/casino that they gambled in on Amazing Race (sad, I know!).

Punta del Este is not exactly urban. Also, if one is looking for the urban type "buzz", then Punta is only a real option during January, less so in February and the rest of the year its rather quiet.

Punta del Este is not exactly urban. Also, if one is looking for the urban type "buzz", then Punta is only a real option during January, less so in February and the rest of the year its rather quiet.

If one if willing to go a bit-far, then all the porteneos head to Mar del Plata, where the nightlife in January is really cookin :p

If you're interested in experiencing urban areas, don't bother going to Colonia for 24 hours. And avoid Montevideo, there's nothing that exciting in this city......

Gosh, I really could not disagree more. I think Colonia is well worth a night and maybe even two. On summer weekends the town is a destination for sailboats coming across from Buenos Aires. Quite a fun atmosphere. The old town is quite nice with a few galleries and other interesting shops. While I agree that the town can be seen in a few hours, I think it's a great place to catch your breath for a day in incredibly pleasant surroundings. Don't miss the sunsets over the Rio.

Call me crazy, but I like Montevideo. First, it has a faded glory atmosphere about it that I find interesting. Second, you absolutely have to do lunch at the customs house at the old port. Incredible parilla, in my opinion, better than what I had in all of Argentina. Third, wait until you taste the ice cream in this city. BsAs has its share of very good ice cream outlets, but Montevideo is the ne plus ultra. Incredible. Last, there are a number of excellent restaurants in the city.

I was in Punta during the high season last January for a weekend. Very crazy then. Although crowded, we're not talking the Hamptons here. I'd recommend it for the people watching and a bit of beach fun.

My wife like most women isn't sure what to wear. We will be going to Buenos Aires over Thanksgiving. What should women wear for sightseeing, dining out, and the evening shows? Thanks.

Jim

If your wife happens to be pregnant, she should wear any shirt that bares her entire midsection!!! Quite a thing there in Argentina. :)

.....there is currently a great $349 USD ($483 USD all taxes in) fare from EZE-CPT (Capetown, South Africa) on Malaysia Airlines.......The fare is good for all of November with outbound and returns on either Sundays or Wednesdays......Unfortunately, I usually spend my winters in BsAs beginning at the end of December, so it looks like I'll miss travelling to yet another great wine country......

This same fare was available all of last January and February while I was in Argentina. I imagine they will offer it again.

Call me crazy, but I like Montevideo. First, it has a faded glory atmosphere about it that I find interesting. Second, you absolutely have to do lunch at the customs house at the old port. Incredible parilla, in my opinion, better than what I had in all of Argentina. Third, wait until you taste the ice cream in this city. BsAs has its share of very good ice cream outlets, but Montevideo is the ne plus ultra. Incredible. Last, there are a number of excellent restaurants in the city.

I was in Punta during the high season last January for a weekend. Very crazy then. Although crowded, we're not talking the Hamptons here. I'd recommend it for the people watching and a bit of beach fun.

Not to start a food fight, and yes, I will agree with you that Montevideo does have a lot of good things and nice places to see.... but, Im trying to think really hard about what places you had your meals here in Buenos Aires if you think that 'parrilas' are better in Montevideo. The same goes for your ice-cream comment... :eek: :eek: :eek:

Im not saying its not possible to eat good meat in Uruguay, but your average meat in Montevideo or even Punta del Este is not the best that is produced in Uruguay because they tend to export just about 100% of their prime beef (unlike Argentina).

In any event, to each his own. I think its important that visitors take time to see both Buenos Aires and Montevideo, and as I always say, its not only important that you come down here, but its even more important that you return to visit us sometime soon.

and as I always say, its not only important that you come down here, but its even more important that you return to visit us sometime soon.

I'm trying!!! But business class award seats are next to impossible to get! :( And 10+ hours in coach isn't gonna cut it, particularly with the Mrs. who's had a blood clot in her leg in the past.

Not to start a food fight......... but, Im trying to think really hard about what places you had your meals here in Buenos Aires if you think that 'parrilas' are better in Montevideo. The same goes for your ice-cream comment... :eek: :eek: :eek:

......and as I always say, its not only important that you come down here, but its even more important that you return to visit us sometime soon.

Oh that Uruguayan ice cream, yum :p

Gaucho, now that you've thrown down the gauntlet, I believe the only way to sway me in your favor would be to personally show me some better parilla argentina. I'm open to new ideas. Balls in your court!!! :cool:

tfjim-- I would be glad to give you some places to go. When is your next trip down here...?

This same fare was available all of last January and February while I was in Argentina. I imagine they will offer it again.

Yes, I remember them from the last few years as well, but couldn't find them online until I remembered Asatej (http://www.asatej.net/index.php) . They have 8 day6 night Capetown air/hotel/transfer packages beginning at a remarkable $550 USD per/pax.

Does anyone know anything about Hotel La Mision in Colonia? Their rates seem to be reasonable for an air conditioned room (about half the cost as at the Hotel Plaza Mayor)

http://www.lamisionhotel.com

Folks, just wanted to give you all the heads up with this announcement. Please see:

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371229

Cheers,
Gaucho100K

Gaucho hello,

First of all congratulations on your new venture - best of luck! Second - thanks for the time and effort you have put into this thread. I had been reading through and on the spur of the moment called DL a couple of weeks ago and snagged 4 coach tickets using miles to EZE. BA is one of the places on my list to visit, so this will be our winter vacation.

A couple of questions that you might be able to help with. We arrive on the 22nd of December and are leaving on the 1st of January, so we'll be in Argentina for the 2 holidays. Do most stores, shops, museums, etc. close for the holidays? How about the falls at Iguazu - are tours conducted New Years eve and day?

Since we'll be spending a solid week in BA, it seems that a rental apartment is a much better arrangement (2 adults, 2 children) than a hotel room. Any opinion on the apartment rental scene?

Thanks - runningshoes.

BTW - have you finalized your Greece/Egypt vacation plans?

Gaucho hello,

First of all congratulations on your new venture - best of luck! Second - thanks for the time and effort you have put into this thread. I had been reading through and on the spur of the moment called DL a couple of weeks ago and snagged 4 coach tickets using miles to EZE. BA is one of the places on my list to visit, so this will be our winter vacation.

A couple of questions that you might be able to help with. We arrive on the 22nd of December and are leaving on the 1st of January, so we'll be in Argentina for the 2 holidays. Do most stores, shops, museums, etc. close for the holidays? How about the falls at Iguazu - are tours conducted New Years eve and day?

Since we'll be spending a solid week in BA, it seems that a rental apartment is a much better arrangement (2 adults, 2 children) than a hotel room. Any opinion on the apartment rental scene?

Thanks - runningshoes.

BTW - have you finalized your Greece/Egypt vacation plans?

Runningshoes-- thanks for the well wishes. My Greece and Egypt plans have been put on hold until later in 2005, since this new venture wil be eating up all my time for the next 2-3 months.

Very glad to hear you will be visiting Buenos Aires. Museums and shops will be open for business, with the exception of Dec 25th and January 1st. The temporary apartment scene in EZE is alive and well, with lots of options to fit just about any budget. My question is if during a 1 week stay you want to be bothered with not going to a full service hotel... even though some apartments are also fully serviced. Its a personal choice I guess. If you go apartments, make sure to shop around and do some light bargaining.

The Iguazu question I have to pass on.... Im not sure about the answer. My guess is that NY eve will almost surely be open for business, NY day may not be the case. I suggest you check with the hotel you are staying at for details.

Cheers,
Gaucho

Just to let others know we booked a tour with tangol- we phoned them to book and then went into their office on Calle Florida to pay BUT they are only an agent and NOR TUR the actual tour company failed to collect us from our hotel and so we never got to Fiest gaucha. Tangol repaid our tour monies but we would rather have actually gone out for the day.
However we booked a car and driver and went to San Antonio De Arecho to their real fiesta. We saw Guachos drive troops of horses in a competition and had a great day out there. The fiesta is on in early Novemnber culminating on the 10 Novemeber when the Gaucho parade through the town decked out with gold and silver.

A trip to view the Glaciers is a must if you go to Pategonia.

tfjim-- I would be glad to give you some places to go. When is your next trip down here...?

I suspect it will be in January or February. I believe I will start in Cuzco and do the overland to La Paz, then down to Salta. Though I'm not entirely certain yet as I haven't planned anything yet. I would like to eventually get to Iguazu and Entre Rios.

Great. Let me know when you plan to be in EZE....

cheers


I suspect it will be in January or February. I believe I will start in Cuzco and do the overland to La Paz, then down to Salta. Though I'm not entirely certain yet as I haven't planned anything yet. I would like to eventually get to Iguazu and Entre Rios.

Hello,

Will be in BA 12/26-31. I have info on performances at the theater. The question is: how to book tickets/tour? Do I do it from the States or on arrival in BA?
Is getting tickets to Colon a problem?

Thanks a lot, uis00sn.

The latest report I have is that the Teatro Colon is working on a phone and/or internet ticket sales plan, but it is certainly not operational yet. Tickets to individual performances (as opposed to multi-night subscriptions) only go on sale a few days prior to the event, and you need to line up at the theatre box office to buy them.

Montevideo does have a certain faded glory to it. Everything is closed on Sundays but it does have a somewhat pleasant beach in the city (swimmable). Nowhere near as cosmopolitan and energic as BA.

Colonia is a nice place to chill out for about a day from the city. I am certainly a urban city type but I did enjoy the place too.

I will be spending a week in BA in Spanish school in Feb (yah!). As it's my second visit there I don't have to do the touristy thing this time and just soak things up.

I continue on my trip to Ecuador and Peru before returning on a flight that gets me in on a Sunday at 7:30am and my flight out is the next day to GIG at 8am. Since they are both award tickets (*A to GIG, OW from LIM) I might be able to change the flight times subject to fee costs. Or I could visit BA for 24hrs again. Are there any cheap hotels out by EZE. I was contemplating doing the sleepinginairports.com thing especially since my EZE-GIG ticket is in J but I doubt the Varig or United lounges are open 24hours right?

I will be spending a week in BA in Spanish school in Feb (yah!). As it's my second visit there I don't have to do the touristy thing this time and just soak things up.

I continue on my trip to Ecuador and Peru before returning on a flight that gets me in on a Sunday at 7:30am and my flight out is the next day to GIG at 8am. Since they are both award tickets (*A to GIG, OW from LIM) I might be able to change the flight times subject to fee costs. Or I could visit BA for 24hrs again. Are there any cheap hotels out by EZE. I was contemplating doing the sleepinginairports.com thing especially since my EZE-GIG ticket is in J but I doubt the Varig or United lounges are open 24hours right?

I don't know anyone who has stayed at a hotel near the airport ever. What I would do is book a cheap hotel (someone here recommended the Ibis hotel in downtown for $30/day www.accorhotels.com) and then take a taxi or bus to the hotel and then take a taxi back to the airport the following morning.

I don't know anyone who has stayed at a hotel near the airport ever. What I would do is book a cheap hotel (someone here recommended the Ibis hotel in downtown for $30/day www.accorhotels.com) and then take a taxi or bus to the hotel and then take a taxi back to the airport the following morning.

Thanks for the info. I'm just such not a morning person but I guess I could do the big shopping thing on the return trip to BA for that 1 day. Didn't expect the hotel to be so cheap!

Thanks for the info. I'm just such not a morning person but I guess I could do the big shopping thing on the return trip to BA for that 1 day. Didn't expect the hotel to be so cheap!

Before de-dollarization, it would have been AR$90/US$90; now AR$90 = US$30. Hotels that cater more to Argentine tourists or intra-Argentine business travellers have, to some substantial degree, maintained their prices in pesos (with some significant inflation here and there) that can be leveraged by a strong USD (and even more so an increasingly stronger CAD$.).

If you need any more help, FTers in this thread are quite well informed about Buenos Aires.

This Ibis hotel probably attracts more Europeans than Americans due to Accor Hotels' (and particularly Ibis's) more recognized presence in Europe than America.

Before de-dollarization, it would have been AR$90/US$90; now AR$90 = US$30. Hotels that cater more to Argentine tourists or intra-Argentine business travellers have, to some substantial degree, maintained their prices in pesos (with some significant inflation here and there) that can be leveraged by a strong USD (and even more so an increasingly stronger CAD$.).

Exactly one reason why I am going back to BA. The last time I was there the dollar was high and it was more expensive than Europe. I just checked for my dates and the rate as AR$75 = CAD $30! I can't think of anywhere (even South Africa) where you could stay in a western style and standard chain hotel in the world for that price (except for maybe Priceline). Even in poor third world countries, the prices for similar hotels would run much more as the traveller they would cater to would be "rich" tourists. The other extreme would be western backpackers. For me, I would hope that by now I could afford more than backpacker places but I don't believe in $100 plus hotel rooms if all you are going to do is sleep in it!

Has anyone been to the United or Varig Lounges. What are there hours?

Has anyone been to the United or Varig Lounges. What are there hours?

United's is open from I think 8:30 in the morning to 1:00 p.m. or whenever their flight goes to Montevideo. It opens up again at 4:30 in the afternoon and closes at about 9:30 in the evening or perhaps later if the UA flight is delayed.

I'll arrive in BA 2/2/05, stay in a guesthouse for a week, using some of the time to apartment hunt for a 2 month stay. Is this a good idea, is there apt to be a good inventory of apartments to choose from by waiting. I'm leery of booking something on the Internet without seeing it or at least having a recommendation. I'm thinking of Palermo or Recoleta, a studio or one bedroom, security or secure, hopefully a washing machine, air con, clean, close to public transportation, restaurants, shops. What might I expect to pay? Any recommendations on rental agencies or should I just walk around and look on my own? Thanks for all responses and advice! P.S. First visit to Argentina!

I'll arrive in BA 2/2/05, stay in a guesthouse for a week, using some of the time to apartment hunt for a 2 month stay. Is this a good idea, is there apt to be a good inventory of apartments to choose from by waiting. I'm leery of booking something on the Internet without seeing it or at least having a recommendation. I'm thinking of Palermo or Recoleta, a studio or one bedroom, security or secure, hopefully a washing machine, air con, clean, close to public transportation, restaurants, shops. What might I expect to pay? Any recommendations on rental agencies or should I just walk around and look on my own? Thanks for all responses and advice! P.S. First visit to Argentina!

I am only familiar with hotels there and friend's homes/condos so I cannot help you with prices and things like that. BuenosAires Herald has listings in the classified section quite often and that works well.

How much are you looking to pay per month? The good news is that February and March are off-peak months in Buenos Aires and there should be good availability because a lot of people are gone on summer vacations and the like. The downside is that the ability to see properties will be geared toward mid-week visits.

How is the weather in Argentina during the winter? (summer in the Northern Hemisphere). I am especially interested in late May/early June.

Do the museums and other interesting places tend to have shorter hours in the winter?

How is the weather in Argentina during the winter? (summer in the Northern Hemisphere). I am especially interested in late May/early June.

Do the museums and other interesting places tend to have shorter hours in the winter?

End of May is nice there ... although a bit wet on occassion. June can get cooler but I have not noticed tourist-type places having curtailed hours. Maybe the galleries and smaller museums may not be as lively but accessing them will not be a problem. Outdoor markets ... well, that's a different story.

June and July are my favorite winter months...

Dont worry about reduced access to public places during winter, there is no such thing in Buenos Aires. Also, if you are used to the winters in the North, our winter will be a real walk in the park... :D

www.alojargentina.com.ar

I used them in May for a 1 month stay and was more than happy with their service. Have a wide range of apartments on their website.

And don't forget to sign up on www.restaurant.com.ar

Does anyone have any experience with doing hotel internet bookings thru www.argentinaspecial.net?

I emailed a hotel directly and they said their rate is $85. This internet company says it is $68. Two other places say sold out for my dates.

Because it is 3 rooms/3 nites, I am hesitant to gamble on an agency I have no feedback on.

Thanks!

I've never booked through Argentinaspecial, but if you want to deal with a reliable travel agency, get in touch with Mike or Luciano from Argentinago (http://www.argentinago.com/system/index.php?len=2). They're prompt in email response and can get better rates at hotels.

Good luck !

Does anyone have any experience with doing hotel internet bookings thru www.argentinaspecial.net?

I emailed a hotel directly and they said their rate is $85. This internet company says it is $68. Two other places say sold out for my dates.

Because it is 3 rooms/3 nites, I am hesitant to gamble on an agency I have no feedback on.

Thanks!

I've never booked through Argentinaspecial, but if you want to deal with a reliable travel agency, get in touch with Mike or Luciano from Argentinago (http://www.argentinago.com/system/index.php?len=2). They're prompt in email response and can get better rates at hotels.

Good luck !

I also used argentinago.com for hotel reservations. They were very responsive and I would definitely recommend them.

Do yo know anything about the Eva Peron museum: hours, location, etc. Thanks very much.

Museos Argentinos (http://www.museosargentinos.org.ar/museos/museo.asp?codigo=802) and Info (http://www.palermonline.com.ar/noticias/nota120_museo_evita.htm)

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday and holidays, from 2pm-7:30pm
Address Lanifur 2988 (Palermo) Telephone 4807-0306

Buses: 10, 15, 37, 38, 41, 59, 60, 64, 93, 95, 118, 128
Metro: D Line to Plaza Italia

I visited the museum a while ago, and liked it very much !

Do yo know anything about the Eva Peron museum: hours, location, etc. Thanks very much.

Elvis.... thanks for helping out in this thread... :D ^

I'll arrive in BA 2/2/05, stay in a guesthouse for a week, using some of the time to apartment hunt for a 2 month stay. Is this a good idea, is there apt to be a good inventory of apartments to choose from by waiting. I'm leery of booking something on the Internet without seeing it or at least having a recommendation. I'm thinking of Palermo or Recoleta, a studio or one bedroom, security or secure, hopefully a washing machine, air con, clean, close to public transportation, restaurants, shops. What might I expect to pay? Any recommendations on rental agencies or should I just walk around and look on my own? Thanks for all responses and advice! P.S. First visit to Argentina!

I've used ByTArgentina (http://www.bytargentina.com) for my last four trips of 1 month each and have been very satisfied with them. Their agency fee is only $20 and they have a very large selection, especially in the Palermo/Barrio Norte/Recoleta area. For stays of 1 month or more, they require a 1-month security deposit which is collected with your total payment upon arrival.

I've always booked my stays in advance -- ranging from 1 month to 1 week in advance.

Gaucho, con mucho gusto ! :)

I too have been very satisfied with bytargentina, since it's so easy to check out apartment availability, while alojargentina.com you have to fill out a reservation form and they'll let you know if the dates are available. It would be a hassle if you are searching for a few apartments and none were available (which happened to me)

Bytargentina's fee is $25 now, which was raised a few months ago. I was going to suggest using bytargentina when kathyoo arrives, but generally the best apartments are reserved a few months ahead. There's a slim chance that you'll find an apartment available for 2 months from your arrival, but from a limited selection.

Even though you are leery of dealing with internet bookings, I'd suggest you deal with the following companies.. Bytargentina, Alojargentina and Apartmentsba (http://www.apartmentsba.com/system/contenido.php?&id_cat=0&PHPSESS=5214093d22c77b9703758523d3d20962).


I've used ByTArgentina (http://www.bytargentina.com) for my last four trips of 1 month each and have been very satisfied with them. Their agency fee is only $20 and they have a very large selection, especially in the Palermo/Barrio Norte/Recoleta area. For stays of 1 month or more, they require a 1-month security deposit which is collected with your total payment upon arrival.

I've always booked my stays in advance -- ranging from 1 month to 1 week in advance.

I want to thank everyone here for their helpful advice -- I used MANY of the recommendations on my recent trip to Argentina.

Having been to Buenos Aires several times since the late 80's, I think I can offer some perspective on the current situation. First, for Norteamericanos, it is very cheap right now -- especially for dining and entertainment. Indeed, the rate of exchange presents a compelling reason to visit NOW. I went to a couple of good steakhouses (like Mirasol), but I think the best restaurant values were in the fancy "international" restaurants . Resto (hidden inside Montevideo 938 near the Teatro Colon) was my favorite. We had terrific "modern French" cuisine for about US$15/person for a 3-course lunch, including wine and tip! Sirop in Recolleta was good, too. It's a "punishing" pace eating two "fine dining" meals a day in BA, but if you're staying less than a week in town, you're going to want to do it. Best dining value in the world right now.

Taking in a soccer match is a must see. I've never seen anything like it -- the passion of the fans is truly unbelievable to an outsider (and the soccer is pretty good, too!). You definitely want to go with a guide. I paid 100 pesos a person (which included guide, transportation and ticket), but I suspect if you asked around, you could do this for less (suggestions, anyone?).

Attending a performance at the Teatro Colon was great, too. You do still need to go to the box office a few days before the event to get tickets. US$15 will get you a good seat. The staff at the box office is helpful, and keep in mind when they say "limited sight" they mean it! In fact, they will discourage you from buying the bad seats, but if that's all that's left, go anyway!

I'd also recommend seeing a tango show. My travel agent wanted US$50 to see "Sr. Tango," which seemed too high for BA entertainment. We went to the discount Cateratas (sp?) ticket outlet on Corrientes and got tickets for US$8 (including a very good 3-course dinner) at "Taconeado" in San Telmo. Perhaps the best entertainment deal I've ever seen! The show was quite entertaining, and no reason to pay more.

I used both the Subte (subway) and radio taxis to get around. The subway is fine and fun as a change of pace if it's convenient for your routing, although you may encounter some panhandling. No difficulty getting radio taxis, either by phoning ahead or just looking on the street for those with a lit "libre" sign. With a US$2 fare getting you most places, I used cabs extensively.

The safety situation is OK, but not great. Definitely worse than, say, a decade ago (it reminded me of NYC before Rudy Guiliani cracked down on the squeege guys). If you don't want to see people picking through garbage, stay in Recolleta. I felt safe walking most places during the day -- but at night I'd stick to the weathier neighborhoods. "Situational awareness" is an asset, and BA would probably not make a good destination for the rookie international traveler. For instance, one time I detected a possible pickpocket (casually dressed kid, about 18) following me and pulled off to let him pass me. He stopped a storefront in front of me, confirming my suspicions. I simply crossed the street and avoided any confrontation. This isolated incident should not deter anyone from visiting, but it's certainly good advice to leave valuables in a safe and your wallet in your front pocket when you're walking around.

You definitely want to book your hotel room as far in advance as possible as you can see the surge in tourism going on now (good news for the Argentine economy, I think, and with the surge in exports, probably a sign that the economic situation will continue to improve). Ditto on internal airline tickets. The US$110 roundtrip I paid to fly Southern Winds (reasonable but not great service) to El Calafate was a steal, but the flight later sold out. I highly recommend a visit to the Glaciers at that price, and would recommend staying on an Estancia -- Nibepo Aike offers the best value, IMHO, as long as you can live with comfort but not luxury. If you have reasonable int'l driving experience, best to rent your own 4-wheel drive and come and go as you please. Lunch at Casamiro in town is an extraordinary value for money. I ate at their restaurant and not the grill they opened next door, and my wife is still unhappy that we didn't go back for lunch a second time. Hard to believe you could get gourmet food in the middle of nowhere, but Argentina is like that.

I want to thank Gaucho for the wine recommendations. I'm somewhat embarrassed to say it, but I simply went to the Disco supermarket next to my hotel, which stocked most of his suggestions. The Finca el Portillo line (which Gaucho classified as "mid-level") was less than 10 pesos a bottle -- about half the other wines in that category. Did I get a deal (I haven't drunk the wine yet), or do you "get what you pay for"? I brought back almost all of them in that category (but bought extra Finca el Portillo for gifts!) so I guess I can give my own 2 cents in a few weeks.

Overall, I think folks will find Argentina these days still a "little crazy" (you'll be amazed that you avoided a traffic accident riding around). Indeed, in many respects, it's a society on the edge. My guess is that things get better and we'll all be able to visit BA many times in the future (at hopefully favorable exchange rates), but who really knows. Life is uncertain. Go now while you can.

Oh, just a few more tips. While folks told me I could shop in places like the Galleries Pacifico, I found these high priced shopping centers to be, well, high priced. No bargains compared to prices in the States. I had more fun shopping at the weekend outdoor market in Recolleta and in the "wholesale" stores near the Pasteur subway stop. Obviously, not the highest quality merchandise (comparable to Target, I suppose), but good prices that made sense if you're not looking for designer stuff.

BA museums are probably underrated and I particularly liked the new MALBA modern arts building. If you're seen the movie or play, you'll be entertained by the Evita Peron museum as well.

And when you're downtown, play tourist and have a coffee at Cafe Tortoni. It's a little like being in Vienna -- for a fraction of the price.

I want to thank Gaucho for the wine recommendations. I'm somewhat embarrassed to say it, but I simply went to the Disco supermarket next to my hotel, which stocked most of his suggestions. The Finca el Portillo line (which Gaucho classified as "mid-level") was less than 10 pesos a bottle -- about half the other wines in that category. Did I get a deal (I haven't drunk the wine yet), or do you "get what you pay for"? I brought back almost all of them in that category (but bought extra Finca el Portillo for gifts!) so I guess I can give my own 2 cents in a few weeks.


No need to be embarrassed... by all means, the Supermarkets are a great place to buy wines, especially those marketed by some wineries that do most of their business in the entry level segments. Finca el Portillo is the second line of wines made by the House of Salentein, they make some excellent value for $$$ stuff. In terms of your enjoyment of wines... if you are the "normal" US drinker of wines that I know, then you may find these wines a little light and perhaps too easy to drink. I say this because usually, wine drinkers from the States tend to like bigger reds, with oak taking a center stage in their wines. Just keep this in mind when you taste them... on the other hand, if you like more approachable wines that are fruitier rather than oaky.... then I think you will be very pleased.

Do try them out when you have a chance, and please, post your tasting notes here.... :D

Cheers,
Gaucho

In terms of your enjoyment of wines... if you are the "normal" US drinker of wines that I know, then you may find these wines a little light and perhaps too easy to drink.

Yeah, that's probably me. I do like those hearty cabernets. I did find some of the Argentine wine I drunk in restaurants to be lighter than I expected. But nothing was really disappointing (well, OK, I did get a bad cheap wine at the tango show).

No need to be embarrassed... by all means, the Supermarkets are a great place to buy wines, especially those marketed by some wineries that do most of their business in the entry level segments. Finca el Portillo is the second line of wines made by the House of Salentein, they make some excellent value for $$$ stuff. In terms of your enjoyment of wines... if you are the "normal" US drinker of wines that I know, then you may find these wines a little light and perhaps too easy to drink. I say this because usually, wine drinkers from the States tend to like bigger reds, with oak taking a center stage in their wines. Just keep this in mind when you taste them... on the other hand, if you like more approachable wines that are fruitier rather than oaky.... then I think you will be very pleased.

Do try them out when you have a chance, and please, post your tasting notes here.... :D

Cheers,
Gaucho

I loved Argentine wines for this very reason. I found some of the cheaper Malbecs to be a bit too much like a heavy Zinfandel, but for the most part I found them to be well balanced. My favorite wines tend to be Oregon and Northern California Pinot Noirs - which are much lighter than most Argentine wines. Still, the focus on the fruit rather than the oak was a welcome change from the typical Northern California oak bomb. I still can't beleive the quality you get in Argentina for about US$10.

This hotel is on my short list of considerations for our 3 night stay in February. Hotel Nogaro -- http://www.hotelnogaro.com/home_ingles.html How is this location? I just want to make sure it isn't too 'far out' from the center of things.

Another on my short list (but may be sold out) was the Broadway Suites -- http://www.broadway-suites.com.ar/ It seems a great location -- is it?

Thanks :)

This hotel is on my short list of considerations for our 3 night stay in February. Hotel Nogaro -- http://www.hotelnogaro.com/home_ingles.html How is this location? I just want to make sure it isn't too 'far out' from the center of things.

Another on my short list (but may be sold out) was the Broadway Suites -- http://www.broadway-suites.com.ar/ It seems a great location -- is it?

Thanks :)

...Lady...:

I don't like any of this locations .. not for my hotel. Those are location where you have to go site-seeing .. and the people/thieves with the "bird-trick" are waiting for you right there...
When I go again, I would definitely stay (again) in Recoleta. Nice, upscale area with street cafés like in Paris .. you can walk to many places, or take a taxi for less than 5ARS.
I asked Gaucho.. once where his home in BA is, he never answered, so I guess ... he is not living in Recoleta or any other place in Bario Norte :rolleyes:

I agree with USAFan, stay in Recoleta. Loi Suites Recoleta offers awesome rooms in a lovely hotel within 1 block of 20 good restaurants, the cemetary from which the neighborhood gets its name, and the famous church with the cloisters from which the cemetary got its name. http://www.loisuites.com.ar/

I agree with USAFan, stay in Recoleta. Loi Suites Recoleta offers awesome rooms in a lovely hotel within 1 block of 20 good restaurants, the cemetary from which the neighborhood gets its name, and the famous church with the cloisters from which the cemetary got its name. http://www.loisuites.com.ar/

I'm a third vote for Recoleta. Etoile is a decent choice if you don't mind 70's/80's decor. The price is great for the location.

I stayed first in Recoleta and then in Retiro (by Plaza San Martin) when I returned from El Calafate. Both neighborhoods are nice, but Recoleta had better dining options and felt "safer" (in Retiro you'd run into dozens of folks sifting through the garbage bags on an evening stroll). No subway in Recoleta (I've heard they're building one, someday), but with taxi fares only running 4 to 6 pesos, you don't really need a subway.

So, at least given the current situation, I'd recommend Recoleta to all vacationers.

I asked Gaucho.. once where his home in BA is, he never answered, so I guess ... he is not living in Recoleta or any other place in Bario Norte :rolleyes:



My apologies to USAFAN for not answering the above question in a timely fashion.

I live in Belgrano, which is a 10-15 drive from the areas of Barrio Norte and Recoleta.

Recoleta is a good place for first time visitors to stay, I would also throw in the Puerto Madero area as a good option. Other locations like the Obelisco area are also possibilities, it all depends on how upscale and what budget you are managing.

Thank you to all the posters for all the info. Great tips I'll be putting to use next week...

... and to Gaucho100K: Muchisimas gracias por empezar este "thread" y compartir tu perspectiva local. Sos de lo mejor.

My apologies to USAFAN for not answering the above question in a timely fashion.

I live in Belgrano, which is a 10-15 drive from the areas of Barrio Norte and Recoleta.

Recoleta is a good place for first time visitors to stay, I would also throw in the Puerto Madero area as a good option. Other locations like the Obelisco area are also possibilities, it all depends on how upscale and what budget you are managing.
Thanks Gaucho.., I guess I passed Belgrano when I went by train to the river delta .. nice houses.

I met two other tourists at this old coffeehouse. Both told me, that they have been attacked with this "bird trick", one near Obelisco, the other near the (pink) palace.

I did review the LoiSuites Recoleta. It looks lovely and I'm sure we'd be very happy there. However, it does seem sold out for our dates, and I would like to find something a little less expensive. No more than $85 (including tax), as it is 3 rooms/3 nights.

A friend's friend just stayed at the Broadway Suites last week and recommended it, but it is also sold out on our dates.

Any other good suggestions in the Recoleta area?

Thank U :)

If it's your first time in BA then it's fine to stay in Recoleta and Puerto Madero (both are overpriced but lots of cool places).

But if you're a frequent visitor, it's way better to stay somewhere else. Palermo, Microcentro, etc..

iahphx, Recoleta is safer than most neighborhoods but it doesn't have better dining options.

ALadyNCal, did you try the travel agency Argentinago ?

I went to argentinago.com Had problems getting their English version to work. I figuered I would do some more hotel research and then contact them for quotes/availability.

This is our first time to BA. It is my husband, myself, and 3 parents (70ish). Next time when it's just the two of us, we can branch out, but playing it fairly safe for this trip since it's the 5 of us.

Thanks.

Hi all,
We're planning a trip to BA in April, and were wondering if things are generally open on Easter sunday, or if the city more or less shuts down. If they're closed we may delay the trip by a few days.
Thanks for your help.

Hi all,
We're planning a trip to BA in April, and were wondering if things are generally open on Easter sunday, or if the city more or less shuts down. If they're closed we may delay the trip by a few days.
Thanks for your help.
senor:

May calender says: Easter Sunday 2005 is on March 27th :)

senor:

May calender says: Easter Sunday 2005 is on March 27th :)

oops! I'll blame my wife Buster, for looking at 2004. But then again, I doublechecked it, and I looked at 2004 as well! Thanks.

....Any other good suggestions in the Recoleta area?...


Hotel Etoile
Presidente R. M. Ortiz 1835
(1113) Capital Federal
Buenos Aires – Argentina
Tel.:(54-11) 4805-2626
Fax:(54-11) 4805-3613
http://www.etoile.com.ar/

Get this guide - they delivered it to the hotel:

http://www.buenosairesherald.com/argentina/guides/article.jsp?idContent=31
Guide to Buenos Aires

Price: $ 30 Capital and Greater BA (postage included) Interior add $ 5. Other countries; U$S 20 (postage included)

The Buenos Aires Herald has published the 5th edition of the traditional Buenos Aires Tourism Guide in English.

A guide especially designed for tourists, foreigners, expats and newcomers. Written by local people who know and love BA.

What to visit?, Where to eat?, What to buy?

Find them in a 272 colour-page guide. Read all kind of answers to curiosities, history, details, hints, tips and everything tourists, foreigners, expats and newcomers need.

The different porteño circuits: Avenida de Mayo, La Boca, San Telmo, Retiro, Banking district, Puerto Madero, Recoleta, Palermo, Belgrano, Abasto and Beyond Downtown. Cultural circuit: Around museums and art galleries, and Jorge Luis Borges’ tour.

Shopping centres, hotels, restaurants and bars. Tango shows and tango academies. Also, the unforgettable BA at night, its architecture, people, secrets and history. An indispensable tool. Everything you need to know about porteños life!

$ 25 Capital and Greater BA (postage included)
Interior add $ 5.

Other countries; U$S 18 (postage included)

Thank you to all the posters for all the info. Great tips I'll be putting to use next week...

... and to Gaucho100K: Muchisimas gracias por empezar este "thread" y compartir tu perspectiva local. Sos de lo mejor.

No, thank you and all the other FTers that consider coming to Argentina to visit. I hope that the little information that I can gather and offer here will help all those interested in visiting my home town. I again apologize for not having all the answers and also not being able to always answer in a timely manner, I sometimes wish I had a little more time to dedicate to this thread.

Thanks again to everybody for their patience... :D ^

Cheers and greetings from Buenos Aires!!!

Gaucho100K

OK Gaucho- Here's one for you.

I have a company that has been growing very nicely dealing with servicing the US Hispanic market through Argentina (vague, I know). As we've grown, we have more and more folks traveling between the US and Argentina. A few months ago, we negotiated a pretty good rate (US$170 or so) with the Park Tower. But, when you factor in the 25% tax and all of the other additions, it's adding up as we have more people going down there more often.

I'm looking for a 4 or 5* hotel, in central BA that is a cheaper alternative - but it must have broadband internet. Someone suggested the Nogaro, which is right on Plaza de Mayo, which has wireless high-speed and is around $80/night in the volume we're discussing (around 15-20 room nights/month). Anything else come to mind?

Thanks.

Hello Billy. With that negotiated rate at the Park Tower, I would suggest speaking to the folks at the Hilton Puerto Madero. If Im not mistaken, they have wireless LAN services at least on the executive floor level. Another property that comes to mind is the Crown Plaza Panamericano, although again Im not sure what the internet situation looks like.

Sorry I cannot be of more assistance.

I've been doing some last minute updating for my trip to BA in late Feb/early March. Bidding on apartments in Plaza Serrrano, which according to Moon Handbooks, is now an epicenter of trendy, fusion oriented dining and nightlife options. True?

It was interesting to see someone mention parts of BA being like NYC before the Rudy era emerged. Should be no problem, just have to turn up the safety radar.

It was interesting to see someone mention parts of BA being like NYC before the Rudy era emerged. Should be no problem, just have to turn up the safety radar.

I said it, and I think it's true. I just wouldn't send a "backpacking" college kid to BA for his first int'l trip. Nor would a send any other travel novice -- at least without a structured tour to get their feet wet. You will see examples of extreme poverty -- contrasted by a European-like cafe society among the better off. It is quite a contrast these days.

FWIW, I didn't see anything that actually looked "violent." I think the major risk for tourists is having a bag or wallet stolen, and I think that's unlikely to happen if you exercise reasonable precautions.

I've been doing some last minute updating for my trip to BA in late Feb/early March. Bidding on apartments in Plaza Serrrano, which according to Moon Handbooks, is now an epicenter of trendy, fusion oriented dining and nightlife options. True?

It was interesting to see someone mention parts of BA being like NYC before the Rudy era emerged. Should be no problem, just have to turn up the safety radar.

Plaza Serano is in Palermo, its a very safe neighborhood. That plaza is my favorite place to spend Sunday afternoons, it fills up and overflows with local artists selling some very creative pieces that represent a very wide range of methods and styles. There are people selling other less original stuff, the same sorts of things you'd see at any of the other street markets around the city such as toys, leather goods, mate cups, and so on, but Plaza Serano has the most original art for sale that I've seen any where in the city. It also attracts a very diverse crowd of people, on any day of the week. There are a handful of good cafes on the plaza, and a bunch of great little restaurants in the surrounding neighborhood. I think that you'd love having an apartment there.

I said it, and I think it's true. I just wouldn't send a "backpacking" college kid to BA for his first int'l trip. Nor would a send any other travel novice -- at least without a structured tour to get their feet wet. You will see examples of extreme poverty -- contrasted by a European-like cafe society among the better off. It is quite a contrast these days...

I beg to differ. In my view most, if not all, of the areas a tourist might want to visit in Buenos Aires are perfectly safe, and I would encourage anybody, travel novices and college kids included, to visit such warm and friendly city ¿People sifting through the rubbish? sure, but let's put that into perspective: they are not looking for Burger King leftovers to eat, they are looking for *cardboard*, to sell and earn a few pesos, the very same activity that takes place all over elegant Europe too, by the way, only that in Paris, or Madrid, it is done at 3 or 4 am, not at 8pm like in Buenos Aires, so the the 'scare' factor is less likely to affect the average tourist.

I second what KurtD and Viajero posted above... ^

I said it, and I think it's true. I just wouldn't send a "backpacking" college kid to BA for his first int'l trip. Nor would a send any other travel novice -- at least without a structured tour to get their feet wet. You will see examples of extreme poverty -- contrasted by a European-like cafe society among the better off. It is quite a contrast these days.

FWIW, I didn't see anything that actually looked "violent." I think the major risk for tourists is having a bag or wallet stolen, and I think that's unlikely to happen if you exercise reasonable precautions.

I dont agree with this. As a matter of fact, Buenos Aires in particular and Argentina in general is happy to receive many backpackers from not only North America, Europe and Scandinavia all year round. I can think of dozens of destinations that I would feel are more hazardous for a first time traveller... but then again, Im speaking of my home town here so I guess its hard for me to be objective.

the very same activity that takes place all over elegant Europe too, by the way, only that in Paris, or Madrid, it is done at 3 or 4 am, not at 8pm like in Buenos Aires, so the the 'scare' factor is less likely to affect the average tourist.

While I do not want to discourage folks from visiting BA, it is important to have realistic expectations. The level of poverty and "homelessness" in BA is simply not comparable to Western Europe or any other "first world" destination. There is significant and very visible poverty on the streets of BA. It is the reality, whether we like it or not.

While I do not want to discourage folks from visiting BA, it is important to have realistic expectations. The level of poverty and "homelessness" in BA is simply not comparable to Western Europe or any other "first world" destination. There is significant and very visible poverty on the streets of BA. It is the reality, whether we like it or not.

I have no sense of what the actual statistics are, but I notice more poverty and homelesness here in San Francisco than I saw in BA. My view was probably skewed by the fact that I stayed in Recoleta and Palermo most of the time. However, my brief time in the more tourist central area yielded far fewer homeless people than I see even in the wealthier sections of San Francisco.

Of course, I know there must be some extremely impoverished neighborhoods in BA that would contrast starkly with Recoleta, etc.

Most of the poor digging through the trash in Argentina behave with dignity; that is to say, they don't come to you begging and mind their own business and do what honest work they need to in order to get by. That kind of work ethic is to be admired.

Buenos Aires is safe enough for most everybody who uses basic common sense.

While I do not want to discourage folks from visiting BA, it is important to have realistic expectations. The level of poverty and "homelessness" in BA is simply not comparable to Western Europe or any other "first world" destination. There is significant and very visible poverty on the streets of BA. It is the reality, whether we like it or not.

Have you looked at London,Paris,Amsterdam,New York,Chicago,Madrid ? They all have visible signs of homeless,out-of-luck-down people.

Most of the poor digging through the trash in Argentina behave with dignity; that is to say, they don't come to you begging and mind their own business and do what honest work they need to in order to get by.

That seemed to be true from my observation. While some did panhandle, the vast majority did not. That said, the number of trash diggers, particularly in the downtown area between the Plaza San Martin and Lavelle, was truly mindboggling. Like 2 or 3 per block in the early evening, with trash strewn everywhere. And this is a "good" neighborhood! Quite different from what I observed in Recoleta, which is why I think most folks would do better avoiding a hotel in the downtown area. I would also note that, if you do stay downtown, the area east of the Plaza San Martin seems to have significantly less begging/trash digging.

All I can say is I am thankful that there are people who will hold high opinions of BA no matter what. I can't wait to see Buenos Aires and have nearly driven my girlfriend crazy with all my talk of the things we will be doing down there.

In reference to poverty and panhandlers, my feeling is that no matter where you may be, poverty can be found. Whether manifesting itself in the homeless of a panhandler on Madison Avenue and 61st (Upper East Side) or the younger street beggars in Union Square, I expect to see people rummaging through garbage anywhere I am in New York City. And as a result, if I see similar begging/rummaging going on elsewhere, it wont faze me.

I will still love EZE. ^

We have a five hour layover at EZE after a redeye flight. Does anyone have any suggestions of a hotel or other place near EZE that we could relax?

Posada de las Aguilas - Link (http://www.posadadelasaguilas.com/) I never have stayed at this hotel, but if you do stay there let us know what you think of it.

We have a five hour layover at EZE after a redeye flight. Does anyone have any suggestions of a hotel or other place near EZE that we could relax?

Hope everyone can bear yet another hotel question :(

I am keeping LoiSuites Recoleta at the top of the list.

The other two hotels I would like to get a "good" or "stay away" vote are:

LoiSuites Esmerelda
http://www.loisuites.com.ar/EsmeraldaEn.htm

Melia Buenos Aires Boutique Hotel
http://www.solmelia.com/sol/hoteles/jsp/CHome.jsp?idSolRes=5950

I will be excited to finalize my hotel arrangements for BA, so that I can go back to square one and work on Santiago! lol

Thanks :)

Hope everyone can bear yet another hotel question :(

LOL, no problem!

I am keeping LoiSuites Recoleta at the top of the list.

Its my favorite for under $150 a night in Bs. As.

The other two hotels I would like to get a "good" or "stay away" vote are:

LoiSuites Esmerelda
http://www.loisuites.com.ar/EsmeraldaEn.htm

Its ok, but no where near as nice as LoiSuites Recoleta. Service is good, rooms are clean, but nothing fancy and the neighborhood (Microcentro) just is not anywhere near as fun and interesting to me as Recoleta.

Melia Buenos Aires Boutique Hotel
http://www.solmelia.com/sol/hoteles/jsp/CHome.jsp?idSolRes=5950

Don't know, I've been in the lobby but never stayed there. It looks nice from the lobby, but I'd recommend staying in Recoleta if you can handle their rate.


I will be excited to finalize my hotel arrangements for BA, so that I can go back to square one and work on Santiago! lol

Thanks :)

Santiago? Awesome, you'll love it. But you HAVE to go to Vina del Mar. Stay at a hotel/casino in Valparaiso for a night or two and spend your days on the beach at Vina del Mar.

Most of the poor digging through the trash in Argentina behave with dignity; that is to say, they don't come to you begging and mind their own business and do what honest work they need to in order to get by. That kind of work ethic is to be admired.

Buenos Aires is safe enough for most everybody who uses basic common sense.

I could not have posted this better. Its unfortunate that the economic hard times have led to so many people falling into hard times financially.

With regards to safety, even though Buenos Aires was a safer destination 10 years ago, the overall safety situation is much improved when compared to the past 2-3 years where it had gotten into critical territory. I endorse the comments that if one uses basic common sense, even for the little experienced international (or even first time) traveler, Buenos Aires should be a great experience.

Hi all,
We're planning a trip to BA in April, and were wondering if things are generally open on Easter sunday, or if the city more or less shuts down. If they're closed we may delay the trip by a few days.
Thanks for your help.

My family and I have visited Buenos Aires a number of times during Palm Sunday/Easter weeks and love that time of year there. The city seems peaceful and pretty in the early autumn season and all the places that we frequent are open and busy. We have enjoyed attending Mass in the Cathedral and joining the Palm Sunday procession outside in the square.

In fact, next Palm Sunday/Easter weeks I will be taking my 25 year old daughter to BA as a reward to her for being such a wonderful/thoughtful child to her mother and I.

great thread... just finished reading all 26 pages.

My wife and I will be traveling to Bs.As. and Uruguay in Jan-Feb '05 to celebrate my 50th birthday. Looking for two restaurant suggestions:

1) the best Argentinian steakhouse in the city, and
2) the best restaurant in the city for dinner on the night of my birthday.
Gaucho, I have read of your preference for
Sinclair, Christophe, and Nectarine over La Bourgogne. Any other opinions? Does one of the aforementioned stand out above the rest?

Also, I'm planning on spending two nights at the Four Seasons Carmelo resort in Uruguay. Anybody been there lately?

Finally, on the topic of wine: a Malbec named Bramare, from Marchiori vinyard in Argentina, has recently become very popular here in the USA mostly due to the involvement of California winemaker Paul Hobbs. Any opinions from the portenos on this one?

Hi Gaucho and everyone else,

I was wondering if you might have a recommendation for somewhere romantic and nice for New Years Eve dinner for my partner (he lives there) and me. He's not so good at picking restaurants. Last year we ended up at a pretty decent place in Plaza Serrano but it was nothing to write home about (or post on FT about, for that matter). Of course we also left it until December 29 last year before we got a reservation, so everything was full. This year I'm determined to get a reservation in the next few days. :)

So, it'd be nice if you could recommend something either in Puerto Madero on the water or somewhere else with a nice view. Somewhere that won't be too loud, and maybe somewhere that isn't charging more than U$S 40 per person. Or just anything else that doesn't meet the above that you think would be a great place to go. I'd really appreciate the suggestions!

Also, I'd love to know more about your wine shop. Could you give me the address so I can stop in and get a few bottles while I'm there? (If you'd prefer to send it by PM that'd be fine, too!)

Thanks so much for the help. I really do appreciate it. :)

My family and I have visited Buenos Aires a number of times during Palm Sunday/Easter weeks and love that time of year there. The city seems peaceful and pretty in the early autumn season and all the places that we frequent are open and busy. We have enjoyed attending Mass in the Cathedral and joining the Palm Sunday procession outside in the square.

In fact, next Palm Sunday/Easter weeks I will be taking my 25 year old daughter to BA as a reward to her for being such a wonderful/thoughtful child to her mother and I.

prspad-- Thank you very much for the kind words about Buenos Aires. Im very glad you have enjoyed it down here and am even more pleased that you would consider returning. If there's anything I can do to help you plan your next trip, please let me know.

...I am keeping LoiSuites Recoleta at the top of the list...LoiSuites Esmerelda...Melia Buenos Aires Boutique Hotel...

I've successfully used GoArgentina.net (http://www.goargentina.net/hotels/buenosaires/index.shtml) for discounted rates whenever I need a hotel room for myself or visitors when I'm in between apartments. Here's a sampling of their rates:

LoiSuites Recoleta: $144 USD jr. suite incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.

LoiSuites Esmerelda: $60 USD reg. room incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
$74 USD suite incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.

Melia Boutique Hotel: $99 USD reg. room incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.

Bel Air Hotel: $76 USD reg. room incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
This boutique hotel is in a great location on Arenales in Recoleta - quiet yet close to everything

Edificio Suipacha Suites: $60 USD incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
This hotel is in Retiro near Plaza San Martin, one of my favourite parts of town

Feir's Park Hotel: $120 USD incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
This converted apartment building is in Retiro, close to Plaza San Martin and not far from the exclusive Sofitel

Loi Suites Arenales: $74 USD incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
Also in Retiro near Plaza San Martin

Marriott: $108 USD incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
I think this is a great price for a great classic hotel in an ideal location.

Plaza Francia Hotel: $72 USD incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
A great location near the Alvear Palace, Av Libertador and Patio Bullrich

Suipacho y Arroyo Suites: $58 USD incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
A great bargain for a relatively new kid on the block in an elegant part of Retiro

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the above-mentioned choices. If you really want to pare costs to the absolute minimum, there are acceptable hotels going for as little as $34 USD

great thread... just finished reading all 26 pages.

My wife and I will be traveling to Bs.As. and Uruguay in Jan-Feb '05 to celebrate my 50th birthday. Looking for two restaurant suggestions:

1) the best Argentinian steakhouse in the city, and
2) the best restaurant in the city for dinner on the night of my birthday.
Gaucho, I have read of your preference for
Sinclair, Christophe, and Nectarine over La Bourgogne. Any other opinions? Does one of the aforementioned stand out above the rest?

Also, I'm planning on spending two nights at the Four Seasons Carmelo resort in Uruguay. Anybody been there lately?

Finally, on the topic of wine: a Malbec named Bramare, from Marchiori vinyard in Argentina, has recently become very popular here in the USA mostly due to the involvement of California winemaker Paul Hobbs. Any opinions from the portenos on this one?

Delta50-- Welcome to FT, and thank you for reading and participation in my EZE thread. Now, on the topic of your questions....

1) Best Steakhouse..... well, first of all, allow me to explain that in Buenos Aires, just about 99% of all restaurants offer grilled meats on their menus. Also, the "steak" concept as such is a little broader a concept in that when we talk about grilled meats, the cuts of meat are extremely varied and quite different.... I assure you there is a cut for every taste. Now, to the restaurants.... its hard to say or to single out one one establishment. My shortlist would be:

a) Cabaña Las Lilas
b) El Pobre Luis
c) El Novillo Alegre

The above is only three of the many others.... I will for now keep the list at that because I dont want to confuse you with too many options. Also, the above has three different levels of establishment.... Cabaña being the most upscale and tourist accustomed place (but its by all means still authentic in terms of the food), and the other two being more local style places... El Novillo Alegre is a no frills place... dont dress up to go to this one. In any event, if you are looking for a more traditional US style steak house experience, with the more polished decor, etc. (a place where you would wear a jacket, etc.) then by all means go to Las Lilas.

2) Restaurant for the night of your birthday.... I assume you will want a quiet kind of setting. My choice would be Nectarine... (please try the Chef's tasting menu, 8 courses plus 2 desserts). The service is not as detailed and the ambience is more like a mid-level Paris restaurant rather than a super luxury establishment.... but I guess that you probably have had enough of those hotel type places. If you still want to experience a 5 star hotel type thing, forget the Alvear and La Bourgnogne, and instead to the Agraz (Ceasars Park), or Le Sud (Sofitel). Another place to consider would be Oviedo.

One more thing... regarding Sinclair... Im afraid I will have to take it down from my recommended list. The last two meals Ive had there have been quite lame.... its unfortunate that Rodrigo seems to be taking his eye off the ball... but thats been my experience lately. :(

Now, onto the Wine... :D

The wine & vineyard you are referring to is called Viña Cobos. Paul Hobbs is one of the three winemakers, and is also a partner in this venture. The Bramare label is the second wine of this house, and it is indeed a superb Malbec. However, the read gem of this house is the Cobos, this is the insignia label and will take anybody's Malbec experience to the next level. The Cobos is a limited release wine, so its not too easy to obtain (although some cases are being exported to the USA through Paul Hobbs himself). I like both wines very much.... Bramare is my pick in terms of value for money, but, if budget permitting... I would not leave out a couple of cellar slots for the big brother Cobos. For where to get these goodies while in EZE, please PM me for more details... ;)

Cheers,
Gaucho

Hi Gaucho and everyone else,

I was wondering if you might have a recommendation for somewhere romantic and nice for New Years Eve dinner for my partner (he lives there) and me. He's not so good at picking restaurants. Last year we ended up at a pretty decent place in Plaza Serrano but it was nothing to write home about (or post on FT about, for that matter). Of course we also left it until December 29 last year before we got a reservation, so everything was full. This year I'm determined to get a reservation in the next few days. :)

So, it'd be nice if you could recommend something either in Puerto Madero on the water or somewhere else with a nice view. Somewhere that won't be too loud, and maybe somewhere that isn't charging more than U$S 40 per person. Or just anything else that doesn't meet the above that you think would be a great place to go. I'd really appreciate the suggestions!

Also, I'd love to know more about your wine shop. Could you give me the address so I can stop in and get a few bottles while I'm there? (If you'd prefer to send it by PM that'd be fine, too!)

Thanks so much for the help. I really do appreciate it. :)

Hi... for your romantic dinner, I would go to Nectarine (just go a la Carte and you will be inside your budget), or else if you prefer Italian, I would to go Bella Italia. Not the bar, but the restaurant. These are very close by so make sure your concierge does not book you into the bar/bistro. Its also great, but for a romantic dinner you need to go to the Restaurant.

Im PMing you with the details of the wine store.... :D

For those potential visitors to BsAs who are concerned about safety, I would have to say I feel as safe there as I do in my hometown of Montréal. My wife and I, as well as an occassional retinue of friends and relatives have spent our last few winters enjoying the city to its fullest. We've taken buses, the subway, trains, taxis, remises and walked through all parts of the general metropolitan area. As we are athletic walkers, a 25 KM stroll through any given barrio is not unusual. We've been victims of a single unsuccessful "bird trick" attempt, but laughed it off as being so obvious as to be comical. Pick-pocketing on crowded buses or tourist areas is not uncommon if you leave yourself vulnerable by carrying a backpack or purse slung behind a shoulder and out of your view. Of course, I've witnessed the same in Rome, Istanbul, Sofia, Montreal, San Francisco, etc.. Violent crime is not nearly as prevalent as in many North American cities. As for the poverty, it is a reality born of the most recent economic crisis, but it is not nearly so apparant as some of the media portrays. The "garbage pickers" are, for the most part, merely gathering paper and cardboard to be sold to recycling plants. It's become quite a business in its own right. Don't imagine for a moment that there are homeless sleeping in every doorway and pitching tents at city hall (as in San Francisco). Porteños have too much pride.

If you choose to bypass BsAs because of safety concerns, I think you are doing yourself a disservice and missing out on experiencing a wonderfully vibrant and culturally rich city.

Gaucho (or anyone), any word on the better suggestions for parrillada?

(I did do a search and turned up nothing).

Thanks.

Gaucho (or anyone), any word on the better suggestions for parrillada?

(I did do a search and turned up nothing).

Thanks.

Hi WindFlyer-- so that I can better point you in the right direction.... what do you mean by parrillada....? Are you looking for some tips on where to best have meats, or do you want to have a meal in an outdoor setting...? Parrillada is a dish in itself (basically a collection of various cuts of beef, chicken, sausages and other delicacies, sometimes also pork, etc.). Parillada is actually not that common or typical of Argentine quisine, we usually like to say we will go have an "asado" and then order various rounds of different things. The Parillada is sort of looked down upon because it usually is just a collection of whatever the parrillero (the doode at the grill) has leftover or just feels like selling you... :D

In any event, if you give me a little more information on what sort of a setting you are looking for, budget (per pax with no wine included), and some other info I would be delighted to give you some options.

Cheers,
Gaucho

Parrilladas for Chilenos? :D

I have found these web-sites quite helpful in deciding where to dine while in BsAs.

ElGourmet (http://elgourmet.com/) is a great resource. Their cumputer code prevents me from posting a direct link to the restaurant guide on their site, but just click on the GUÍA DE RESTAURANTES link to gain access. It's in Spanish, (those unable to cope, just use babelfish (http://world.altavista.com/)), and you can sort results by cuisine, location or price. You can then refine further by sorting results according to location and ratings of food, ambiance or service. they use a 20 point scale. The list is quite extensive. For example, choosing parrilla yields 70 restaurants. Narrowing the results to Belgrano yields 2 choices, El Pobre Luis (rated: 14/11/11; $30-$40 ARS) and El Novilla Alegre (rated: 9/8/9; $20-$30 ARS). If you do a search of all 651 listed BsAs restaurants and prioritize food quality, you'll see some familiar, as well as quite surprising, results.

The oleo (http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/) guide is similar, but results are based on reader opinions polls and not all listings have been rated. They utilize a 30 point scale.

We were in BA in 1992 and really liked it, in spite of the very expensive peso or austral at the time. One problem that has kept us from going back was the heavy smoke in every restaurant. My wife has asthma and she suffered to the point that we did a lot of picnics instead. Many countries have banned smoking in restaurants in the last several years. Does anyone know the situation (100kGaucho?) today in Argentina? Has the smoke cleared yet? Thanks!

We were in BA in 1992 and really liked it, in spite of the very expensive peso or austral at the time. One problem that has kept us from going back was the heavy smoke in every restaurant. My wife has asthma and she suffered to the point that we did a lot of picnics instead. Many countries have banned smoking in restaurants in the last several years. Does anyone know the situation (100kGaucho?) today in Argentina? Has the smoke cleared yet? Thanks!

Not always or necessarily. Some restaurants (a few) have smoking and non-smoking sections, but even there people may still light up.

For what it's worth, I don't come back smelling as strongly of smoke as often as in the past.

We were in BA in 1992 and really liked it, in spite of the very expensive peso or austral at the time. One problem that has kept us from going back was the heavy smoke in every restaurant. My wife has asthma and she suffered to the point that we did a lot of picnics instead. Many countries have banned smoking in restaurants in the last several years. Does anyone know the situation (100kGaucho?) today in Argentina? Has the smoke cleared yet? Thanks!

Smoking is permitted in restaurants. Then again, most restaurants you will be considering will have smoking and non smoking sections. Lots has changed since 1992.... it would be great if you would consider returning to Buenos Aires.

I finally sent in my credit card info for an apartment on Gurruchaga and Paraguay. Gaucho--this isn't going to be a decision I regret is it? We are looking to spend time in the hip, trendy, and bohemian sections of BA. Will this be a bullseye?

I finally sent in my credit card info for an apartment on Gurruchaga and Paraguay. Gaucho--this isn't going to be a decision I regret is it? We are looking to spend time in the hip, trendy, and bohemian sections of BA. Will this be a bullseye?

Some time ago Gaucho.. posted a hip restaurant (mix restaurant/market) in Old Palermo. Forgot the name. Place was real cool ... the people are really friendly, the food was O.K.

LoiSuites Esmerelda: $60 USD reg. room incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.
$74 USD suite incl. tax & breakfast dbl. occ.


Does anyone have an opinion on this hotel and/or its location? In case I can't afford it's 'upscale cousin' the LoiSuites Recoleta :D

Does anyone have an opinion on this hotel and/or its location? In case I can't afford it's 'upscale cousin' the LoiSuites Recoleta :D
Like I said in #383 of this long thread:

Its ok, but no where near as nice as LoiSuites Recoleta. Service is good, rooms are clean, but nothing fancy and the neighborhood (Microcentro) just is not anywhere near as fun and interesting to me as Recoleta.

When I don't want to spend $110 or more per night at LoiSuites Recoleta I go to the Wilton, which I can often find at online discounters for $45, and can always get directly from the hotel for $60:
Avda. Callao 1162
Telephone: + 54 (11) 48 11 18 18
E-mail: reservasw@hotelwilton.com.ar
Internet: www.bookings-americas.com/ar/hotels/wilton

Its on the border of Recoleta and Barrio Norte at Santa Fe and Callao, a 10 minute walk or 3 peso cab ride to the cemetary and church.

I finally sent in my credit card info for an apartment on Gurruchaga and Paraguay. Gaucho--this isn't going to be a decision I regret is it? We are looking to spend time in the hip, trendy, and bohemian sections of BA. Will this be a bullseye?

Im not sure I can answer your question entirely.... I dont know who you passed your credit card information to.... and I dont know the apartment that you have transacted for either. In any event, assuming you have done your homework, you should be OK. Have a great trip!!!

In Argentina the $ sign means Argentine pesos, unless otherwise stated. You will see US$ when that is the case (for example, real estate transactions).

Try to avoid airlines that charge an increased price for non-argentines (Southern Winds apparently does not discriminate).This answers a couple of questions that I had.

I found a fare of $267.26 Argentine Pesos for a round-trip flight between Buenos Aires and Iguazu, which is roughly the equivalent of $91.57 United States Dollars.

Add to that that American Airlines is a partner of Southern Winds, and this seems like a great deal — assuming that I can earn American Airlines AAdvantage miles for the flights.

It is nice to know that I will not have to pay a higher fare simply because I am not from Argentina.

While I know that I can call a toll-free telephone number in the United States to make a reservation, it seems that the only way to make a reservation on-line is to join the Southern Winds Value Miles program.

Please correct me if I am wrong with any of the information above...

This answers a couple of questions that I had.

I found a fare of $267.26 Argentine Pesos for a round-trip flight between Buenos Aires and Iguazu, which is roughly the equivalent of $91.57 United States Dollars.

Add to that that American Airlines is a partner of Southern Winds, and this seems like a great deal — assuming that I can earn American Airlines AAdvantage miles for the flights.

It is nice to know that I will not have to pay a higher fare simply because I am not from Argentina.

While I know that I can call a toll-free telephone number in the United States to make a reservation, it seems that the only way to make a reservation on-line is to join the Southern Winds Value Miles program.

Please correct me if I am wrong with any of the information above...

I was able to buy on the Southern Winds website without signing up for the value miles program. That was only three months ago but it's possible that things may have changed since then.

This hotel is on my short list of considerations for our 3 night stay in February. Hotel Nogaro -- http://www.hotelnogaro.com/home_ingles.html How is this location? I just want to make sure it isn't too 'far out' from the center of things.....


I stayed here with b/f (Hotel Nogaro) in April this year. We had a suite. Quiet and peaceful. Very comfortable bed. Beautiful hardwood floors and a separate sitting room. Piped in Muzak, volume adjustable. Best part of all, a good sized bathroom, large bathtub, and a bidet! Service was low key and friendly. I don't speak much Spanish and all the people who worked the front desk spoke English.

I'm gathering from the various comments, feeling safe is a relative thing. I never felt unsafe in this neighborhood, but it is not located in a heavy foot traffic area. It is very close to La Casa Rosa and adjacent to San Telmo, which was my favorite area of the city--beautiful tiled churches, flea market in the park, pizza and beer at sidewalk cafes that were less crowded than Recoleta, interesting architecture, the weekend flea market in the park, really tasty pizza, wine for $6US a bottle in a restauarant!!!

Maybe because I live in San Francisco, I didn't notice people digging through trash cans. At night the concierge radioed a taxi for us to go to dinner in other neighborhoods, and the taxi drivers were friendly and fun. I felt like I was in Europe at 1/3 the price. I will definitely be back.

I've flown with Southern Winds (SW) many times and have been credited the appropiate miles to my AAdvantage account (usually within a couple of days) hassle free.. Though remember that they are not elite status miles.

I would highly recommend flying with them locally (as the service is spectacular in comparison to most local US airlines (including AC in Canada).

happy flying and definetly take some good pictures of Iguazu and remember to go on the little boats that take you all the way up to the falls (though there will be lots of people selling you the tickets for the same price throughout the park, you can get just before you board).

Take lots of pictures and enjoy the weather.

In October I made several attempts on the SW website to make reservations from BsAs to Salta. Each time when I got to the part of the site where you made payment the site would freeze up. I was finally reduced to calling the 800 number in Miami. The nice agent I spoke to checked her computer and told me I had reservations for each attempt! I explained my problem and she said that she would have someone from Argentina to call me and take the cc payment by phone. She explained that if she took the payment in the US that the tickets would cost much more. As she promised someone did call from Argentina and took the payment. I received Etickets via Email. We did promptly receive AA miles credit after the flight. The further in advance you book the cheaper the tickets. Incidentally each flight was completely full.

I have read in several places that they are CHEAP and would like to use them instead of the subway.

We will be five adults. Will we fit in one taxi? Just want to be prepared.

Thanks :)

I have read in several places that they are CHEAP and would like to use them instead of the subway.

We will be five adults. Will we fit in one taxi? Just want to be prepared.

Thanks :)

Now THAT is a new question! I have never heard or seen it before :D The taxis are almost all small 4 door sedans, mostly European makes such as Puegot. What I see in the states that are comparable are Honda Civics or Toyota Corollas. You can squeeze 4 adults in along with the driver, but 5 would be pushing it. Get two cabs:)

Other thoughts: The majority don't have AC. Many are beat up and past their prime, I think that its ok to pass on a taxi and wait for a more comfortable or safer looking one. Look for those labeled "Radio Taxi" as they are purportedly less likely to be kidnappers. On the other hand, a large group as yours is unlikely to be harrased by anything worse than a pickpocket. For everyone else traveling the world, its best to avoid hailing cabs from the street by yourself, travel with friends whenever feasible. Also, ask hotel and restuarant staff to arrange cabs for you, especially at night.

(btw, thanks KurtD for the above info).

I am focusing on the Recoleta for a hotel (now looking at NH Florida). I received this info from a TA in BA, who feels that the Recoleta is not where we should stay :mad: As if I weren't already confused enough :confused:

She said:
"Please note that Recoleta is a very fancy district however it is not so conveniently located as Plaza San Martin, because for example there are no subways in Recoleta and most of the attractions are closely to Retiro and the downtown area."

The comparison -- Is it fair to compare the Recoleta to the Upper East Side in NYC and the Retiro/downtown area as Midtown Manhattan in NYC?

Thanks

(btw, thanks KurtD for the above info).

I am focusing on the Recoleta for a hotel (now looking at NH Florida). I received this info from a TA in BA, who feels that the Recoleta is not where we should stay :mad: As if I weren't already confused enough :confused:

She said:
"Please note that Recoleta is a very fancy district however it is not so conveniently located as Plaza San Martin, because for example there are no subways in Recoleta and most of the attractions are closely to Retiro and the downtown area."

The comparison -- Is it fair to compare the Recoleta to the Upper East Side in NYC and the Retiro/downtown area as Midtown Manhattan in NYC?

Thanks

My guess is that the TA has better arrangements in some parts of town... that happens with many TAs and in various cities. The TA is trying to get you to stay in the area that he/she has the best deal or has the space to accomodate you. Both areas are fine... but if you want to be in Recoleta, then state you case and have the TA oblige.

Is anyone familiar with this place? Estancia Santa Rita (http://www.estanciasargentinas.com/estancias/estancia-santa-rita/estancia-santa-rita-eng.htm) ? Any details you can pass along about it? I can't even find an "official" website for it and it only comes up through these "estancia group" sites.

I found a map that is very useful (imho). It might help others for their hotel research on an overview of where landmarks and sights are located.

Also, if you click on the name of any of the hotels, it goes to a page with more info on them.

Hope it helps someone else :)

http://www.goargentina.net/maps/buenosaires.shtml

If the links to the hotels do not work, then you can just go to their main page and find this map in the top righthand corner.

http://www.goargentina.net/hotels/buenosaires/index.shtml

I found a map that is very useful (imho). It might help others for their hotel research on an overview of where landmarks and sights are located.

Also, if you click on the name of any of the hotels, it goes to a page with more info on them.

Hope it helps someone else :)

http://www.goargentina.net/maps/buenosaires.shtml

If the links to the hotels do not work, then you can just go to their main page and find this map in the top righthand corner.

http://www.goargentina.net/hotels/buenosaires/index.shtml

Thanks for posting this ^

Regarding Recoleta:
Gaucho... is correct. The TA is steering you to their "best" (commission or else that is) hotel.

I recommend Recoleta:
1. It's save
2. Nice places to walk, street cafés ... upscale..
3. Nice people, nice small shops, Mrs. USAFAN
went to a first class hairdresser.
4. Some places to visit ("Evita" cemetery, other)
5. Taxis are cheap; have been there last year.
Mostly less than 5 ARS, and we always
paid 5 ARS, no matter, even if the meter showed less...we really
felt sorry for drivers, who didn't take the direct route.. :p

And don't get me wrong, there are other nice areas/places to stay....I just like Recoleta the most!

Please note that Argentina has a 21% VAT which is usually included in the price of all goods sold. However, sometimes prices are quoted at $XXX + VAT. Hotel fares are subject to other taxes (as in many other parts of the world) - airline tickets are another example. Make sure you are not mixing up these taxes.... they are not the same.

If the 21% is the VAT, then I'm not sure what the IVA is? It was mentioned in a hotel response.


We have availability- the rate is $185+iva (pesos argentinos)incliud Breakfast and taxes

I'm trying to determine if the hotel direct pricing is any better than some of the internet agencies, but want to make sure I am working with the correct figures.

Thanks :)

If the 21% is the VAT, then I'm not sure what the IVA is? It was mentioned in a hotel response.


We have availability- the rate is $185+iva (pesos argentinos)incliud Breakfast and taxes

I'm trying to determine if the hotel direct pricing is any better than some of the internet agencies, but want to make sure I am working with the correct figures.

Thanks :)

Yes, IVA is thier value add tax. People can get around it at some businesses by paying cash, but then again, why contribute to the culture of irresponsibility down there by encouraging businesses to not pay taxes? You can also get some money you paid for taxes while visiting refunded at the airport by submitting your reciept and some forms at a kiosk just past the first security checkpoint, but I'm always too impatient to check it out and see what kind of money I could get back:)

Apologies. More hotel angst from another traveler. Any assistance would be appreciated!

I'm gathering Recoleta is the place to stay, but there are a couple of places outside of Recoleta that sounded tempting and I'd love to get some sort of thumbs up or down from anyone with more information than me:

The two places with the best rates I have found so far are www.argentinago.com and www.argentinas-hotels.com - I have seen people content with their transactions with the former, but have no information on the latter.

The Etoile is 160 Pesos/night (about $55) on ArgentinaGo
The LoiSuites Recoleta is double that, but less if you prepay.
The Ulises Recoleta Suites are $54.

On argentinas-hotels the rates are tax included, so they are 21% less, correct?

The Plaza Francia is $60

These hotels outside of Recoleta also sound tempting -

The Sol Melia looks like it has the sort of rooms I like (bright) and amenities I like (gym, net access) It's offered at argentinas-hotels for what seems like a huge bargain, $70 with taxes included. I know it's not in Recoleta, but is that rate as much of a steal as I think? And I'm also wondering, since the Sol Melia site has a "lowest rate guarantee" +10% off, can I get this for $63 a night? (The posted rates for my date on the Melia site are $162/night)

The other place that looks really interesting is 1555 Malabia House in Palermo Viejo. It looks like it has wonderful character - but it may just have a great web designer ;)

Any help I could get to narrow this list down would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Yes, IVA is thier value add tax. People can get around it at some businesses by paying cash, but then again, why contribute to the culture of irresponsibility down there by encouraging businesses to not pay taxes? You can also get some money you paid for taxes while visiting refunded at the airport by submitting your reciept and some forms at a kiosk just past the first security checkpoint, but I'm always too impatient to check it out and see what kind of money I could get back:)

If you buy leather goods or other not-so-small ticket items, the VAT adds up rather quickly. Perhaps its not such a good idea to skip that tax free counter...? ;)

Hola! Anyone know anything about the Cristoforo Colombo Suites? I'm curious about the location and quality. I know the price is right. Thanks!

If you buy leather goods or other not-so-small ticket items, the VAT adds up rather quickly. Perhaps its not such a good idea to skip that tax free counter...? ;)
:) Good point Gaucho!!! :p

If the 21% is the VAT, then I'm not sure what the IVA is? It was mentioned in a hotel response.


We have availability- the rate is $185+iva (pesos argentinos)incliud Breakfast and taxes

I'm trying to determine if the hotel direct pricing is any better than some of the internet agencies, but want to make sure I am working with the correct figures.

Thanks :)

All published hotel prices I have seen have the 21% VAT/IVA NOT included!

My family (kids are 23 and 20) will be staying at Park Tower through January 1st and we need suggestions for New Years Eve - where to eat (not looking for extravagant place) and is there a safe place where people go to celebrate at midnight (we've been to Copa beach in Rio and Sydney Harbor last 2 years, although haven't done Times Square in NY where we live!) and as we'll be with the kids, not looking for fancy dinner, etc.?

My guess is that the TA has better arrangements in some parts of town... that happens with many TAs and in various cities. The TA is trying to get you to stay in the area that he/she has the best deal or has the space to accomodate you. Both areas are fine... but if you want to be in Recoleta, then state you case and have the TA oblige.

I suspect you are correct.

On my last trip, I stayed both in Retiro and Recoleta. Recoleta is, hands down, the nicer neighborhood. It's less than 10 minutes by cab to most touristy places "downtown." The only logistical disadvantage to Recoleta is no subway but with cab fares running a US buck or two, what tourist would mind taking cabs? And I LIKE the subway!

In October I made several attempts on the SW website to make reservations from BsAs to Salta. Each time when I got to the part of the site where you made payment the site would freeze up. I was finally reduced to calling the 800 number in Miami. The nice agent I spoke to checked her computer and told me I had reservations for each attempt! I explained my problem and she said that she would have someone from Argentina to call me and take the cc payment by phone. She explained that if she took the payment in the US that the tickets would cost much more. As she promised someone did call from Argentina and took the payment. I received Etickets via Email. We did promptly receive AA miles credit after the flight. The further in advance you book the cheaper the tickets. Incidentally each flight was completely full.

Interesting. I had the same "freeze up" problem when I tried to pay for my Southern Winds tickets on their website as well. Instead of calling Miami, I followed the link to email customer service. Nobody ever answered my email! So I found a Buenos Aires travel agent to ticket me. It worked fine, but I probably would have preferred doing it myself. Also, the local travel agent issued me a paper ticket that was delivered to me when I arrived in BA. As I said, it worked fine, but I ran the additional risk of the ticket not getting to me at my hotel. So I highly recommend calling Miami if they can work it out there!

As far as the airline goes, my own experience (and, obviously, it is anecdotal) is that Southern Winds is a mediocre airline that is more than acceptable given the incredibly low fares available. Check in was easy, airplanes were pretty old, in-flight service was somewhat below average for a non-US carrier (but very good compared to domestic flights in the US) and on-time performance was spotty (two of my four segments were late, with weather not being a factor). Fly them with those relatively modest expectations and you will be more than satisfied!

As far as the airline goes, my own experience (and, obviously, it is anecdotal) is that Southern Winds is a mediocre airline that is more than acceptable given the incredibly low fares available. Check in was easy, airplanes were pretty old, in-flight service was somewhat below average for a non-US carrier (but very good compared to domestic flights in the US) and on-time performance was spotty (two of my four segments were late, with weather not being a factor). Fly them with those relatively modest expectations and you will be more than satisfied!


I've flown Southern Winds a couple times within Argentina and have found them to be exactly as reported... In any event, I'd take them in a minute over previous experience with the deservedly defunct airline LAPA...

I've been apprehensive about flying with my family on some South American flag carriers since a few years ago when United booked us on a CONNECTION from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazú on LAPA (Lineas Aereas Privadas Argentinas), a now defunct carrier that had an alliance with United in Argentina at the time... Some Connection! we arrived from Miami to the main airport, EZE (Ministro Pistarini Airport/Ezeiza) to find that we had to get to the domestic airport, Jorge Newbery, for the LAPA flight (even though the paper tix stated EZE as the departure airport!)... It was like making a connection between LHR and LGW... The check-in and boarding procedures were surreal... Everything was very formal with pax herded into a penned-in waiting area until the gates opening to the tarmac were opened and we followed as the herd run in a giant cluster-ef to the two aircraft boarding stairs in order to get an open seat since the plane was oversold and it was open seating only on the one-class aircraft. The plane itself was magnificent from the outside... It was a B757-200 about a year old. Inside was another matter... Even though the plane was relatively new, there was no overhead baggage storage, only a flat, lipped open sided shelf. The FA's announced that nothing was allowed to be in the overhead rack, even clothing. Upon takeoff my tray table fell down and I then noticed that most of the trays were secured by grey duct tape. I ripped a piece of excess tape off of my daughter's tray to apply to my own. Smoking started within 5 minutes of lift-off and a short while later a gorgeous silver cart appeared from the haze and two beautiful FA's began serving room temp Coca Cola from 2 liter bottles into various sized plastic cups. The pilot was obviously and righteously proud of the beauty of Argentina and kept up a running commentary in Spanish, mixed with "Spanglish" about the sights seen as we flew to the airport located on the Argentine side a few miles from the Brazilian border. As we approached Iguazú Falls, (as you know, Foz do Iguaçu in Brazilian Portugese, and Cataratas del Iguazú in Spanish), the pilot dropped to about 2000 ft. in altitude and began making a few tight figure 8's IN THAT 757 over the Falls, exitedly commenting on the beauty of Iguazú and that pax "shouldn't worry, everyone would get to see the view" as he put the plane through some heart-stopping acrobatics while also commenting that he didn't have clearance to fly over Brazil or Paraguay, so "he'd be turning sharply!" As an old Jet-Jockey myself (McDonnell Douglas F-4C "Phantom II"), I kinda enjoyed it. Our return flight a couple days later to Buenos Aires was in a B737-200 and was a little less adventurous. By the way, my United Mileage Plus miles for the LAPA flights were posted after I made an inquiry about 6 months later! Subsequently, we have made the same journey from BA on Aerolineas Argentinas with no undue issues, other than the usual glitches of travel within Argentina...

Somehow I missed LAPA, prspad, and I'm now glad I did. ;) When I visited Iguazu about 4 years ago, I managed to buy a "Visit South America" airpass that allowed travel to Iguazu on Aerolineas and a now defunct Brazilian carrier (you use the local Argentine airport to fly to Buenos Aires, and the Brazil side for Sao Paulo). Not sure if those airpasses are still sold, but given the cheaper rates available on line these days from carriers such as Southern Winds, it's not worth the trouble (I recall spending DAYS trying to get somebody to ticket me the multi-airline pass).

At least from my experience, Southern Winds is NOTHING like the adventure you had on LAPA, and largely similar to flying Aerolineas (at a fraction of the cost for "Yanquis"). Perhaps the most annoying thing is that not all the flight crew's announcements are made in English, so if you're a little rusty on your high school Spanish, you might not know everything that's "going on." Not a problem, of course, unless I suppose there IS a "problem"!

Interesting. I had the same "freeze up" problem when I tried to pay for my Southern Winds tickets on their website as well. Instead of calling Miami, I followed the link to email customer service. Nobody ever answered my email! So I found a Buenos Aires travel agent to ticket me. It worked fine, but I probably would have preferred doing it myself.

Yeah, I'm still "waiting" for a response to the email I sent them 4 weeks ago. Has anyone also noticed that Aerolineas' site, for the last few weeks, has not been able to provide any info on flight timetables, let alone see fares and make reservations?

Yeah, I'm still "waiting" for a response to the email I sent them 4 weeks ago. Has anyone also noticed that Aerolineas' site, for the last few weeks, has not been able to provide any info on flight timetables, let alone see fares and make reservations?

This may be a problem with the US version of the website... Ive been using the Argentine site yesterday and today with no problems...

This may be a problem with the US version of the website... Ive been using the Argentine site yesterday and today with no problems...

Hmmmm. No matter if I click USA or Argentina at the front page of their site, I still get the same response.

Perhaps you will have more luck using this link...?

http://www.aerolineas.com.ar/index.asp?idi=en

Perhaps you will have more luck using this link...?

http://www.aerolineas.com.ar/index.asp?idi=en

Gaucho...:

You get this message when booking there:

Las tarifas expresadas en pesos (ARS) para vuelos dentro del territorio argentino no se aplican para compras realizadas en el exterior. Solo se aplican a residentes en Argentina.

The fares expressed in pesos (ARS) for flights within Argentina do not apply to the tickets bought in foreign countries. They are only applicable to people residing in Argentina.

Fare Buenos Aires - Mendoza - Buenos Aires, same day & time.

Argentina Website:
Fare Tax Pesos (Argentina)
456.00 + 78.12 x 1 Adult = 534.12

US website:
Fare Tax Dollars (U.S.) 368.00 + 56.42 x 1 Adult = 424.42
:td:
1 US$ = ARS 2.961 ^

Gaucho...:
what would happen, if I would book the much cheaper fare on the Argentina website? What actually means "residing in Argentina"? Do I have to register in Argentina (likeat the Einwohner-Meldeamt in Germany)? I know you talk German :D

USAFAN--

The issue of differential pricing is always a hot topic... of course, depending on which side each of us happen to land upon, its either great or it sucks... in the end, whether one decides to pay the price or not is entirely up to the consumer. As for the actual residence check... this is a game that one has to play and see... sometimes they check, other they dont. If you get caught, then be ready to pay the price. Also, purchasing a resident fare with a non Argentine credit card may have issues... again, you have to see if you want to play that game also. In my experience, Ive seen some games go the non residents side.... (ccard ok even though it was European issued, then no checking at checkin, etc.), and Ive seen other situations where it went sour.

I encourage you and everyone else to come here and visit... the details of which airfare you wish and/or can get away with paying is (in my personal view), just a little added salt & peper that each FTer knows if he/she willing to deal with. Whichever you choice.... we hope you come down and have a good time.

Cheers and MERRY XMAS !!!!!

Gaucho100K:

Thanks.
I guess I have to read the "fine print" what "residing in Argentina", may be some nights in a hotel might be sufficient :D

Gaucho100K:

Thanks.
I guess I have to read the "fine print" what "residing in Argentina", may be some nights in a hotel might be sufficient :D

No problem..... another tip: if someone does throw the book at you with this issue, they will want to see your DNI (residents ID)... if this happens, it usually means that you are out of luck because only a formal residency permit will get you a DNI.

cheers,
Gaucho

I am desperately trying to find a flight BA to Iguazu for a 2 night stay, 03 to 05 January is ideal, 02 to 04 January next best choice. I've tried each of the airline websites ( AA, SW, AF ) and they all seem to indicate sold out on the dates. As I'm coming over as a once in a lifetime trip from UK arriving in BA 31 December, I had hoped to be able to achieve this desination. Is there no hope. Will anything open up closer to departure? Anything I can do now?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

So what happens in this city? Where's the action? What can one expect? Does the South Latin temperamant like to party?

So what happens in this city? Where's the action? What can one expect? Does the South Latin temperamant like to party?

You can expect insane fireworks everywhere in the city, starting at midnight and slowly dying out until sunrise (bring earplugs). Partying happens pretty much everywhere, it's the only night of the year when it's relatively hard to get a cab. Around 3 or 4 in the morning clubs and bars start to get packed, the action goes on until around 8 am or later. I remember having a sunrise toast by the river with a group of friends a few years back.

I've been slowly working my way through this thread over the last few days. It is fantastic stuff - and all in the best Flyertalk spirit. Thanks to everyone who has supplied information - and an special thanks to Gaucho100K for being such a great ambassador! ^ The missus and I are hitting Argentina for 3 weeks next October and this has really wetted my appetite for the trip. I'm sure I will be back with questions near departure. :)

I've been slowly working my way through this thread over the last few days. It is fantastic stuff - and all in the best Flyertalk spirit. Thanks to everyone who has supplied information - and an special thanks to Gaucho100K for being such a great ambassador! ^ The missus and I are hitting Argentina for 3 weeks next October and this has really wetted my appetite for the trip. I'm sure I will be back with questions near departure. :)

You're very welcome... please feel free to post your further questions here or else PM me.

Cheers,
Gaucho

I am desperately trying to find a flight BA to Iguazu for a 2 night stay, 03 to 05 January is ideal, 02 to 04 January next best choice. I've tried each of the airline websites ( AA, SW, AF ) and they all seem to indicate sold out on the dates. As I'm coming over as a once in a lifetime trip from UK arriving in BA 31 December, I had hoped to be able to achieve this desination. Is there no hope. Will anything open up closer to departure? Anything I can do now?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

I see availability with Aerolineas Argentinas on the dates you want, but only with the local booking engines in Argentina, not with the international ones, so I guess there's a chance you might be able to book something on arrival, or perhaps you might want to contact a local travel agent now.

OK.....I took a break for awhile... I had "hotel research burn out" :(

I have decided on Recoleta, tho I was "this close" to booking the NH Florida till someone said it's not a nice place to walk around at night :rolleyes:

In the Recoleta, I have read good things (on this thread and other places) about L'Etoile Hotel. The rate is definitely reasonable and seems an excellent location.

I only have one hesitation... Everywhere I see photos of their rooms, they look awful :mad: Esp. on the hotels own website -

http://www.etoile.com.ar/

I think if the rooms were honestly as bad as those photos, people would be mentioning it. It seems to be rated 3.5* to 5*, depending on whose star system you follow. Soooooo.....those people that have stayed there -- the rooms are MUCH NICER than the website shows....yes?

Thanks everyone!

Mrs. USAFAN & I stayed at L'Etoile:

-We had what they call an Executive Suite for less than $100.
-The room was clean, but looked a little "old fashion". Sorry Gaucho...,
but that might be the Argentinian style
-We had a room to the front, somewhat noisy (lots of restaurants) and
view of cemetery (100 yards away)
-The lobby is nice
-The personnel very friendly and helpful
-Free slow Internet
-Breakfast eatable
-? stars. The call them self "boutique hotel"
-I would go back. Why? I like the location! Lots of small shops, cafés and safe.
A little bit like Paris

If you want a better hotel, go to the Hilton in Porto Madero ... it's new(er).

I see availability with Aerolineas Argentinas on the dates you want, but only with the local booking engines in Argentina, not with the international ones, so I guess there's a chance you might be able to book something on arrival, or perhaps you might want to contact a local travel agent now.

Spot on - picked it up today with a BA travel agent - $300+ but I guess it could have been worse - I'm just really glad to have it. Immendely looking forward to this plus 2 nights at the Sheraton International with falls views. Muchos Gracias Amigo!

You can expect insane fireworks everywhere in the city, starting at midnight and slowly dying out until sunrise (bring earplugs). Partying happens pretty much everywhere, it's the only night of the year when it's relatively hard to get a cab. Around 3 or 4 in the morning clubs and bars start to get packed, the action goes on until around 8 am or later. I remember having a sunrise toast by the river with a group of friends a few years back.
Sounds like a nice episode. Thanks for sharing it - I hope to be able to top it with ine of my own. New Year's Greetings!

Mrs. USAFAN & I stayed at L'Etoile:

-We had what they call an Executive Suite for less than $100.
-The room was clean, but looked a little "old fashion". Sorry Gaucho...,
but that might be the Argentinian style
-We had a room to the front, somewhat noisy (lots of restaurants) and
view of cemetery (100 yards away)
-The lobby is nice
-The personnel very friendly and helpful
-Free slow Internet
-Breakfast eatable
-? stars. The call them self "boutique hotel"
-I would go back. Why? I like the location! Lots of small shops, cafés and safe.
A little bit like Paris

If you want a better hotel, go to the Hilton in Porto Madero ... it's new(er).

I stayed at Etoile in September and mostly concurr with USAFAN's description. We had two suites in the rear of the building - the Diplomatic Suite was far better than the Executive suite. I would choose a suite in the front of the building if I had to do it again. The decor is also decidedly 70's/80's, but not much worse than say, the Marriott at LAX. Even with these drawbacks, the hotel represents a great deal. The rooms are huge, clean and well maintained and, most importantly, the location cannot be beat.

.... Even with these drawbacks, the hotel represents a great deal. The rooms are huge, clean and well maintained and, most importantly, the location cannot be beat.

They also offered me a cell phone, which I didn't need, my old AT&T/Nokia worked in Buenos Aires.
And yes, the area is great. Mrs. USAFAN went to an upscale hairdresser ^ ... that would have cost a fortune in the US.
Bottom line: Buenos Aires is great!

We just returned today from a 10 day stay in Argentina and had a wonderful time, in part due to Gaucho's help and advice (and his hospitality and wines of course). BsAs is a wonderful city, made even more enjoyable as a visitor who can enjoy the highlights w/o worrying about daily routines. The falls were great, and we even made it to the Brazilian side w/o the expense of a visa.

I do feel some guilt as I am probably responsible for the demise of at least one cow, if not more, but every bite was a joy! Between the late dinners followed by Volta or Freddo ice cream, a late wake up and all the walking, I didn't use the running shoes once. My wife thinks "I'm cured", but tomorrow morning the return to reality begins.

Hi Gaucho!

I will be in BA this April and I have been reading your advice about everything in Argentina.

I have a problem; I will not be disappointed on you if you're not able to help me, as it is very unusual.

I visited Buenos Aires a few times as a teenager (let's say, a feeeeewwwww years ago), and befriended a couple. I even stayed in their home for a while and went to Punta del Este together. Two decades ago I moved to Canada and lost contact with them.

Is there an agency or a radio station program that would help me find my friends? I've tried to google the Greater Buenos Aires phone book but I could'n find it.

I will appreciate any suggestion. Thank you very much and keep up the good work.

Is there an agency or a radio station program that would help me find my friends? I've tried to google the Greater Buenos Aires phone book but I could'n find it.



Phone directories for all of Argentina:

http://www.telefonica.com.ar/enlace/guia_telefonica.htm

Just finished my sixth visit to Argentina & Bs. As. this year. It was particularly cool this time around in several ways, but also terribly sad due to the tidal waves in South Asia and the hideous nightclub inferno. Don't let the mess at that one club keep you away from this wonderful city though, the goverment is moving quickly, amazingly fast for a normally lethargic and inefficient beauracracy, to impose and enforce even stricter safety rules. If the club in question had followed the existing rules though the tragedy would have been a fraction of what it is. Its particularly disturbing to me becuase my wife has visited the club, and its only 2 blocks from her apartment.

On to the good stuff: Thank you so much for your hospitality Gaucho, we enjoyed that first bottle of wine with our friends in San Antonio de Areca, we're looking forward to the others after they've aged a bit more. El Pobre Luis is indeed a terrific parrilla, we had some awesome rabbit and chicken there last week. We tried to hit a couple of other suggestions you've made this weekend, but like lots of other businesses, many of the restaurants appear to have taken New Years weekend off.

Just finished my sixth visit to Argentina & Bs. As. this year. It was particularly cool this time around in several ways, but also terribly sad due to the tidal waves in South Asia and the hideous nightclub inferno. Don't let the mess at that one club keep you away from this wonderful city though, the goverment is moving quickly, amazingly fast for a normally lethargic and inefficient beauracracy, to impose and enforce even stricter safety rules. If the club in question had followed the existing rules though the tragedy would have been a fraction of what it is. Its particularly disturbing to me becuase my wife has visited the club, and its only 2 blocks from her apartment.

On to the good stuff: Thank you so much for your hospitality Gaucho, we enjoyed that first bottle of wine with our friends in San Antonio de Areca, we're looking forward to the others after they've aged a bit more. El Pobre Luis is indeed a terrific parrilla, we had some awesome rabbit and chicken there last week. We tried to hit a couple of other suggestions you've made this weekend, but like lots of other businesses, many of the restaurants appear to have taken New Years weekend off.

Kurt-- thanks for your kind words, Im glad I was able to meet you and your wife and give you some pointers on the places to go. Please dont forget to let me know next time you are in town... cheers!!

We just returned today from a 10 day stay in Argentina and had a wonderful time, in part due to Gaucho's help and advice (and his hospitality and wines of course). BsAs is a wonderful city, made even more enjoyable as a visitor who can enjoy the highlights w/o worrying about daily routines. The falls were great, and we even made it to the Brazilian side w/o the expense of a visa.

I do feel some guilt as I am probably responsible for the demise of at least one cow, if not more, but every bite was a joy! Between the late dinners followed by Volta or Freddo ice cream, a late wake up and all the walking, I didn't use the running shoes once. My wife thinks "I'm cured", but tomorrow morning the return to reality begins.

Dear RS-- it was a pleasure to meet you & your wife at our store, I hope to catch up with you again the next time you are in town. Cheers!!

Hi Gaucho!

I will be in BA this April and I have been reading your advice about everything in Argentina.

I have a problem; I will not be disappointed on you if you're not able to help me, as it is very unusual.

I visited Buenos Aires a few times as a teenager (let's say, a feeeeewwwww years ago), and befriended a couple. I even stayed in their home for a while and went to Punta del Este together. Two decades ago I moved to Canada and lost contact with them.

Is there an agency or a radio station program that would help me find my friends? I've tried to google the Greater Buenos Aires phone book but I could'n find it.

I will appreciate any suggestion. Thank you very much and keep up the good work.

Unfortunately, Im not sure I can help you much. Im not aware of a radio program that could help you in your search, this doesnt mean that there isnt one but just that I dont know of one that could.... I suggest you try the link posted above and see if the phone book can help. Good luck!!

I am planning to pre-arrange some tours for our group of 5. Would like to get some feedback on what others have paid for things so I know when I book something if it's in the right ballpark.

4 +/- hour city tour?

Dinner & tango show?

Estancia trip?

Airport-Recoleta for 4-5 people?

Hiring a bi-lingual driver for hourly rate for the 5 of us (if we find there is something else to do that we haven't already booked)?

I cannot believe our trip is only a month away. I feel like I've read so much but am still so unprepared :confused:

Thanks everyone :)

I have read that some hotels offer discounts for cash payments. Is this common?

I emailed one hotel and their cash discount is 20%... That leads me to believe that they discount/eliminate the VAT 21% tax (ie. don't pay it) and give you the regular room rate. Presuming it is a reputable/recommended hotel, there is nothing to worry about. Correct?

...
4 +/- hour city tour?

Dinner & tango show?

Estancia trip?

Airport-Recoleta for 4-5 people?

Hiring a bi-lingual driver for hourly rate for the 5 of us (if we find there is something else to do that we haven't already booked)?


I never did a city or estancia tour, have no idea on cost or purveyors. The tango shows usually include a mediocre dinner, like Gaucho said earlier in this thread, you probably ought to get dinner before you go:) I don't recall what we paid at Esquina Carlos Gardel, something like 60 to 75 pesos per person. Taxis from EZE to downtown cost 18 USD, but remember that they are smaller than taxis in the US. You will only be able to fit 3 adults comfortably in each cab, and only a few pieces of luggage in the trunk. You'll probably need 2 cabs from EZE, perhaps even 3 if you guys have a lot of luggage. I spoke to a few drivers about using them all day long, they want about 1 peso per kilometer and 10 pesos per hour.

I have read that some hotels offer discounts for cash payments. Is this common?

I emailed one hotel and their cash discount is 20%... That leads me to believe that they discount/eliminate the VAT 21% tax (ie. don't pay it) and give you the regular room rate. Presuming it is a reputable/recommended hotel, there is nothing to worry about. Correct?

Cash discounts are nothing to worry about... provided its a reputable/recommended hotel - you will be fine.

For a party of 4-5, I recommend getting a mini-van of sorts, no regular sedan (even a stretch S Class Mercedes) will be comfortable enough for a party of 5. While Im not a good source for updated costs for an all in quote, I would suggest checking and verifying that your driver is really bi-lingual. Else, you may end up being better off getting a van with a driver and a tour guide that gives you not only a real ability to speak English, but also knows the sites properly.

I may be able to recommend a guide that will surely be able to arrange suitable transportation, and her English is indeed excellent, but she is not cheap and is very busy, so you must book now to get any chance of securing her services. Please PM me for details.

fsexman and Gaucho 100K:

Thank you very much for your help. I printed all the phone numbers belonging to persons with the same name as my friend. Thanks to the extremely inexpensive phone cards available, I am calling one by one, so far without any luck.

However, I would like to thank you again for your interest.

Best regards

Gaucho,

Thanks so much for providing a forum for this information. Thanks to your spectacular commentary on BA, and the advice provided last year in the AA forum on the Buy 2/Fly Free promo, I've planned my first South American voyage for this April.

I've covered lots of the material in this forum, but still need an opinion. I will be in Argentina for approximately a week, and would like to take a trip to Iguazu Falls and perhaps Montevideo or Punta del Este. What kind of itinerary would you recommend? I have tentatively planned on being in BA for three nights, then heading up to Iguazu for about 24 hours (Southern Winds, arriving 1:45pm, back to BA the next day at 1:30). Is that enough time to spend at the Falls? Should I plan on spending an extra day?

Is it possible, then, to head right to MVD or Punta upon getting back to BA? Or is this too much craziness just to get up to Uruguay? Would you recommend MVD or the beach stop in Punta?

Kind of an open-ended question, I know, but I want to get as much out of the trip as possible without driving myself crazy! Thanks so much...

Clipper - we just got back from BA and the falls and we used a half day and then a full day at the falls. The 1/2 day was the Brazilian side including the bird park, and the full day was the Ar. side, including the boat ride to the base of the falls (which was a highlight for the kids). Two 1/2 days cuts it short, and you're not likely to go back to the falls.

I am thinking about a half-day, a full day and then an additional half-day at Iguazu Falls and another half-day, a full day and then an additional half-day at the Uruguayan cities of Colonia, Punta del Este and Montevideo at the end of May.

Will this be enough time at each location?

I'm heading to Buenos Aires a week from tonight! As a single 40-something woman traveling solo, do you have any recommedations as to eateries (mainly for dinner) where I wouldn't stick out like a sore thumb as much (not fancy places)? Also things to do at night.

I am also a solo female traveller who's been to Buenos Aires many times. Be very, very careful if walking or have the hotel arrange a radio taxi for you and the same for restaurant host when leaving. Sometimes the concierge will call ahead for you and let them know you're coming, especially if you don't speak Spanish, they can seat with English speaking wait staff. Also, Puerto Madero is wonderful and safe and when I go I always say that I need a table for one and make a little sad face. This usually gets me the most solicitous, chivalrous waiters you can imagine.

Many years ago, during my visits to BA I used to have lunch at La Estancia.
There wasn't a special reason; just happened that I enjoyed hanging around Calle Florida and La Estancia was very good and near.

I've been reading all the posts (I've got to page 20) and haven't read any mention of this restaurant. Is it still good? Overpriced? Not worth the prices?
For lunch during weekdays, is it necessary to reserve, or should I just show up? I will be alone.

Thanks for any information.

Gaucho,

Thanks so much for providing a forum for this information. Thanks to your spectacular commentary on BA, and the advice provided last year in the AA forum on the Buy 2/Fly Free promo, I've planned my first South American voyage for this April.

I've covered lots of the material in this forum, but still need an opinion. I will be in Argentina for approximately a week, and would like to take a trip to Iguazu Falls and perhaps Montevideo or Punta del Este. What kind of itinerary would you recommend? I have tentatively planned on being in BA for three nights, then heading up to Iguazu for about 24 hours (Southern Winds, arriving 1:45pm, back to BA the next day at 1:30). Is that enough time to spend at the Falls? Should I plan on spending an extra day?

Is it possible, then, to head right to MVD or Punta upon getting back to BA? Or is this too much craziness just to get up to Uruguay? Would you recommend MVD or the beach stop in Punta?

Kind of an open-ended question, I know, but I want to get as much out of the trip as possible without driving myself crazy! Thanks so much...

Hi Clipper... considering the time of year you will be here, I would recommend you skip Punta del Este. If you want to include Uruguay, then maybe 1 night in Montevideo.... although I suggest you read up on the town and then decide whether you want to go or not. With Buenos Aires and Iguazu, you will already have a hand full of things to do and places to see.

Cheers,
Gaucho

Many years ago, during my visits to BA I used to have lunch at La Estancia.
There wasn't a special reason; just happened that I enjoyed hanging around Calle Florida and La Estancia was very good and near.

I've been reading all the posts (I've got to page 20) and haven't read any mention of this restaurant. Is it still good? Overpriced? Not worth the prices?
For lunch during weekdays, is it necessary to reserve, or should I just show up? I will be alone.

Thanks for any information.

If Im not mistaken they recently reopened, perhaps even at a new location. The place was considered "old school" as of late, not that this meant anything negative.... but, lets just say that there are tons of other places that people talk about more, etc. Let me do some looking around and I will try to get back to you.

For lunch on a weekday, and for a solo table, you should have no problems... still, reserving will never hurt.

I am thinking about a half-day, a full day and then an additional half-day at Iguazu Falls and another half-day, a full day and then an additional half-day at the Uruguayan cities of Colonia, Punta del Este and Montevideo at the end of May.

Will this be enough time at each location?

I think you are good with the time allocated for Iguazu. Im not sure about your Uruguayan tour, though. It looks like you will be rushing through.... again, its just a personal opinion. Some people just like to tick off places on a map and that seems enough, for me, it really doesnt make much sense... Punta del Este in May is nothing special, I would suggest you either stick to Colonia or to Montevideo....

I think you are good with the time allocated for Iguazu. Im not sure about your Uruguayan tour, though. It looks like you will be rushing through.... again, its just a personal opinion. Some people just like to tick off places on a map and that seems enough, for me, it really doesnt make much sense... Punta del Este in May is nothing special, I would suggest you either stick to Colonia or to Montevideo....Thank you for the answer, Gaucho100K.

I realize this is the Buenos Aires thread, but I can extend the amount of time I plan to spend in Uruguay.

What is there to see and do in Colonia and Montevideo that you would recommend or suggest?

Many years ago, during my visits to BA I used to have lunch at La Estancia.
There wasn't a special reason; just happened that I enjoyed hanging around Calle Florida and La Estancia was very good and near.

I've been reading all the posts (I've got to page 20) and haven't read any mention of this restaurant. Is it still good? Overpriced? Not worth the prices?
For lunch during weekdays, is it necessary to reserve, or should I just show up? I will be alone.

Thanks for any information.

As of a few months ago La Estancia was going strong. I enjoy this restaurant as well. Huge servings... Great food... Low prices and a decent wine list. When traveling with my family I prefer eating earlier than the average Argentine and La Estancia is open and busy all day.
http://www.asadorlaestancia.com.ar

Apt vs apart-hotel....

I am on the verge of booking 3 suites/apartments in an apart-hotel in Recoleta.

I am also reviewing an apartment rental site that has some very nice properties and the agent has been recommended.

If we were to get studio apartments, vs an apart-hotel, do you think there are any disadvantages besides a) inclusive breakfast waiting when we get up <either place we would have our own kitchenette>, and b) being able to ask the hotel staff for assistance (being first timers to the city)?

It "seems" that being able to get 3 studios in one building at a savings would be a great idea. They also have a three-bedroom apart that I am looking at.

Anything wrong with my 'plan'?

Disregard question above :(

Hubby thinks that given our lack of familiary with the city and my parents lack of travel savy/experience, we definitely need a front desk to be able to query for this trip.

Thank you for the answer, Gaucho100K.

I realize this is the Buenos Aires thread, but I can extend the amount of time I plan to spend in Uruguay.

What is there to see and do in Colonia and Montevideo that you would recommend or suggest?

Im not an expert in either city, but Montevideo is famous for the old part of the city, with some old architecture and a few good places to eat... also, the shopping for antiques and art is supposed to be very good.

Colonia itself requires no more than a day or two to see all and exhaust the possibilities within said small but picturesque UNESCO cultural site.

Thank you for the replies about La Estancia. I had also checked the website. I read it again; the section about the restaurant history doesn't say anything about it being closed for a while.

I will visit La Estancia again, as I will stay in the Centro, but I will also try new steak places. If you have suggestions, please post them.

Thanks again.

I will visit La Estancia again, as I will stay in the Centro, but I will also try new steak places. If you have suggestions, please post them.

Thanks again.

We loved Parilla 1880 on Defensa when we visited in October. When we come again in April, we'll be having at least one meal there.

Below is a list of both parillas (ie. places that specialize in beef) and also some selected restaurants (**) that have a more diverse menu but where one can also order beef and not be let down....

El Pobre Luis
Cabania Las Lilas
Hereford
El Parrillon de Recoleta
El Novillo Alegre
La Dorita
Campo Bravo
Happening (**)
Villa Hipica (**)

Thanks Gaucho for the recommendations.

Runningshoes & Gaucho: Thanks so much for your advice. It took a lot of research, but I managed to put together a six-night itinerary that includes three in BA, one in Montevideo and two in Iguazu (I'm already exhausted!). Even managed to skip Aerolineas Argentinas lovely non-Argentinian fares by booking through ITN. Only question now is whether to spring for the Brazilian visa to take in the Falls from that side...

Thanks very much!

Thanks Gaucho for the recommendations.

Your welcome !!! Thanks for your interest in traveling to Argentina... :D ^

Runningshoes & Gaucho: Thanks so much for your advice. It took a lot of research, but I managed to put together a six-night itinerary that includes three in BA, one in Montevideo and two in Iguazu (I'm already exhausted!). Even managed to skip Aerolineas Argentinas lovely non-Argentinian fares by booking through ITN. Only question now is whether to spring for the Brazilian visa to take in the Falls from that side...

Thanks very much!

Im very glad the information was of help. As for the ITN booking, would you care to elaborate? In any event, let me advise you that in my (limited) experience with these fares, its not an issue of being Argentine, its an issue of being a resident of Argentina. In this regard, Im not sure I understand how getting a booking is the real challenge... I know of non-residents that have made bookings and purchases of tickets on resident only fares, the real game starts when you attempt to check-in or board... thats when you roll the dice and if the agent catches the "arbitrage" you may have to cough up the difference. In any event, I hope your strategy works, I only want you to be well informed of what the different outcomes may be. Have a great trip !!! :D ^

Thanks for the heads-up, Gaucho... I will do some more research and see if I can't figure a way to avoid a run-in at check-in. Doubt I'm going to convince anyone I'm an Argentine resident with my U.S. passport and less-than-100%-fluent Spanish.

As for ITN: I checked out a wide variety of search engines and carrier Web sites looking for flights from AEP-MVD (Buquebus would make doing MVD and Iguazu very challenging). Travelocity, Expedia, and all the others (including Aerolineas Argentina's own site) listed the Aerolineas flights at a hyper-inflated fare. ITN.net, American Express' travel service, priced in the $100 range, if I remember. Paid with Amex as well, so my hope now is that if plans crumble at the Aerolineas ticket counter, I can go back to them for some help with the situation.

(As an aside, it seems that now the prices even on Travelocity are down to $136, so perhaps I was pricing on a bad day. No matter.)

Tried Pluna as well, but for some reason, couldn't book on their Web site. Feel relatively confident with a guaranteed reservation and the Amex connection. Thanks again.

As far as restaurants in the vicinity of Recoleta, how common is it to find waiters who speak any English and menus that have any English?

We will have our phrase books and do our best, but just wondered how prepared to be.

I figure nothing will be as complicated at one night in southern Spain in a small town. We finally decided on somewhere to eat (small town, limited choices). It was a Moroccan restaurant, with a Moroccan waiter, and a menu in Spanish :eek: No English of any kind. Although we knew the words for chicken and fish, by the time we ordered, we really had NO IDEA what would be coming back. The fun of travel :)

As far as restaurants in the vicinity of Recoleta, how common is it to find waiters who speak any English and menus that have any English?

We will have our phrase books and do our best, but just wondered how prepared to be.

I figure nothing will be as complicated at one night in southern Spain in a small town. We finally decided on somewhere to eat (small town, limited choices). It was a Moroccan restaurant, with a Moroccan waiter, and a menu in Spanish :eek: No English of any kind. Although we knew the words for chicken and fish, by the time we ordered, we really had NO IDEA what would be coming back. The fun of travel :)

Most of the more upscale restaurants (and many around Recoleta) will have English menus and some staff that will have at least basic knowledge of English. In any case, always ask for an English menu... the worse thing that can happen is that you will get a nice broad smile... :D

I think I've stumbled upon a pretty good hotel deal for folks who have some Continental Onepass miles to burn. It's a pretty complicated scheme but, hey, this is flyertalk, so you guys will get it. :)

As one of the awards in the Amtrak Guest Rewards program, you can earn a free Marriott Flex Reward night for 10,000 points, or an Anytime Marriott Flex Reward for 15,000 points. These rewards include free breakfast for two. Doing some sleuthing on flyertalk, I managed to come up with a list of Marriott properties that participate. Many of their best hotels don't, but the Marriott Plaza in BA does.

http://marriott.com/incentives/stayAwards/locationList.mi?awardType=FlexWeekend&title=Flex%20Weekend%20Award%20Location%20List#anc hor4

I don't know too many frequent Amtrak customers, but the Continental OnePass program allows you to transfer miles to Amtrak on a one-for-one basis. (BTW, Amtrak sometimes limits withdrawls to outside programs to 25,000 points a year, but since this is actually an Amtrak reward -- you don't need to transfer points to Marriott -- I don't think that limit applies). I'd probably make sure there was availability with Marriott before I did the points transfer (you can do a search of "marriott flex award" on flyertalk to get more details on how to contact Marriott for award availability.

I've heard alot about the historic Plaza Hotel, but have never stayed there -- not the kind of place that usually has many cutrate deals. It seems like it might be cool to try. What say the experts?

10,000 miles for a weekend seems like a pretty good deal, but I'd be more reluctant to blow 15,000 for a weekday. It seems like a room at that hotel these days goes for about $200/night, including breakfast and taxes.

..As for ITN: I checked out a wide variety of search engines and carrier Web sites looking for flights from AEP-MVD (Buquebus would make doing MVD and Iguazu very challenging). Travelocity, Expedia, and all the others (including Aerolineas Argentina's own site) listed the Aerolineas flights at a hyper-inflated fare. ITN.net, American Express' travel service, priced in the $100 range, if I remember. Paid with Amex as well, so my hope now is that if plans crumble at the Aerolineas ticket counter, I can go back to them for some help with the situation.....


Thanks for the tip. It may work for AEP-MVD
Not for all: I looked for Buenos Aires, Argentina to Mendoza, Argentina
On ITN $498.00 :td:
Still, I bookmarked the link.

Thanks for the tip. It may work for AEP-MVD
Not for all: I looked for Buenos Aires, Argentina to Mendoza, Argentina
On ITN $498.00 :td:
Still, I bookmarked the link.

If its any consolation... $498 for a Round Trip from Aeroparque to Mendoza is a very good rate... as a matter of fact, Im not only a resident but also a citizen and I paid exactly this fare for a one day trip I must make to Mendoza on business next week.

I think I've stumbled upon a pretty good hotel deal for folks who have some Continental Onepass miles to burn. It's a pretty complicated scheme but, hey, this is flyertalk, so you guys will get it. :)

As one of the awards in the Amtrak Guest Rewards program, you can earn a free Marriott Flex Reward night for 10,000 points, or an Anytime Marriott Flex Reward for 15,000 points. These rewards include free breakfast for two. Doing some sleuthing on flyertalk, I managed to come up with a list of Marriott properties that participate. Many of their best hotels don't, but the Marriott Plaza in BA does.

http://marriott.com/incentives/stayAwards/locationList.mi?awardType=FlexWeekend&title=Flex%20Weekend%20Award%20Location%20List#anc hor4

I don't know too many frequent Amtrak customers, but the Continental OnePass program allows you to transfer miles to Amtrak on a one-for-one basis. (BTW, Amtrak sometimes limits withdrawls to outside programs to 25,000 points a year, but since this is actually an Amtrak reward -- you don't need to transfer points to Marriott -- I don't think that limit applies). I'd probably make sure there was availability with Marriott before I did the points transfer (you can do a search of "marriott flex award" on flyertalk to get more details on how to contact Marriott for award availability.

I've heard alot about the historic Plaza Hotel, but have never stayed there -- not the kind of place that usually has many cutrate deals. It seems like it might be cool to try. What say the experts?

10,000 miles for a weekend seems like a pretty good deal, but I'd be more reluctant to blow 15,000 for a weekday. It seems like a room at that hotel these days goes for about $200/night, including breakfast and taxes.

The Plaza is indeed one of the great places to stay in Buenos Aires, provided you like the "old school" type hotel. Some of the rooms are more dated than others... but the hotel is stilll a great place to stay or at least to visit. They have some very cool fans in one of the restaurants/lounges below.... its definetely a place worth a visit.

Runningshoes & Gaucho: Thanks so much for your advice. It took a lot of research, but I managed to put together a six-night itinerary that includes three in BA, one in Montevideo and two in Iguazu (I'm already exhausted!). Even managed to skip Aerolineas Argentinas lovely non-Argentinian fares by booking through ITN. Only question now is whether to spring for the Brazilian visa to take in the Falls from that side...

Thanks very much!

I've crossed to the Brazilian side from Argentina numerous times w/o a visa. Usually, I hire a driver/guide for the day to handle the border crossing and transportation issues. Your concierge can arrange for a driver/guide... No visa needed... The border guards seem to know most of the guides, who probably keep the guards on their "Christmas Card List!" ;)

I've crossed to the Brazilian side from Argentina numerous times w/o a visa. Usually, I hire a driver/guide for the day to handle the border crossing and transportation issues. Your concierge can arrange for a driver/guide... No visa needed... The border guards seem to know most of the guides, who probably keep the guards on their "Christmas Card List!" ;)

Are you doing this on a US passport....?????!!! :eek:

Are you doing this on a US passport....?????!!! :eek:

You can do it on a US passport, but it's illegal. If such persons are caught, they are often expected to pay a bribe to get out and/or get in greater/more expensive trouble as a result.

If one is in a tour group going from the the Argentine side to the Brazilian side with a mostly Argentine guided tour group, usually people that would be illegal get skipped over by Brazilian immigration.

While GU is correct that it is not a legal practice of course, it is how the system works there on a daily basis it seems. The typical cost is $10 - $20 per person, the driver indeed takes care of the border guys on the Brazilian side, thus no problems with the return trip across the border. There are no stamps on the passport, so it's as if you were not there - no record to get anyone in trouble. We did it with our two kids, total cost was $40 (I have no idea how the money was split :) )

Below is a list of both parillas (ie. places that specialize in beef) and also some selected restaurants (**) that have a more diverse menu but where one can also order beef and not be let down....

Cabania Las Lilas
El Parrillon de Recoleta


A tourist's view on these two places, and Estancia, which we also visited for lunch.

Estancia is more of a typical local's place, dressed up for tourists (two minutes from the Obelisco on Lavalle), great value, and a good selection of meats. Nothing fancy.

El Parillon - (Gaucho - if I remember, this is the spot right across from the Cemetery?), also decent, not a fancy place, great for a nice steak and glass of wine after the tour.

Las Lilas - definately a high end place, owned by a company that raises cattle, expect to pay $30 - $35 per person USD, with a good bottle of wine. IMHO, this is probably one of the top three steak meals I've ever had. The meat just tastes different than in the US - maybe not having all the hormones and crap in the meat is what makes the beef better, I don't know.

In general, we did not have a bad meal and that includes the Argentinian equivalent of a fast food parillijada in one of the malls. I can't get over the fact that you can either have McDonald's or a steak and the price is the same.

While GU is correct that it is not a legal practice of course, it is how the system works there on a daily basis it seems. The typical cost is $10 - $20 per person, the driver indeed takes care of the border guys on the Brazilian side, thus no problems with the return trip across the border. There are no stamps on the passport, so it's as if you were not there - no record to get anyone in trouble. We did it with our two kids, total cost was $40 (I have no idea how the money was split :) )

If you get on a certain "watch" list as a result of crossings -- illegally at that -- at places like Ciudad del Este and elsewhere along the Argentine/Brazil/Paraguay border, then don't blame me. :D

I'm glad you had a good time in Argentina. Great place overall.

Most of the more upscale restaurants (and many around Recoleta) will have English menus and some staff that will have at least basic knowledge of English. In any case, always ask for an English menu... the worse thing that can happen is that you will get a nice broad smile... :D

Are we likely to get a "tourist" price if we ask for the English menu? ;)

in addition to these places, which are excellent, i'd recommend El Rio Alba and La Catedra, two places on Cervino in Palermo, very close to the US Embassy and the parks of Palermo. excellent places the last time I visited (new years 2003-2004). will be back next month and hope to go to those two, in addition to Cabana Las Lilas


Below is a list of both parillas (ie. places that specialize in beef) and also some selected restaurants (**) that have a more diverse menu but where one can also order beef and not be let down....

El Pobre Luis
Cabania Las Lilas
Hereford
El Parrillon de Recoleta
El Novillo Alegre
La Dorita
Campo Bravo
Happening (**)
Villa Hipica (**)

Are we likely to get a "tourist" price if we ask for the English menu? ;)

Ive always thought that knowing your surroundings (as much as reasonably possible), researching approximate prices of goods & services, etc. is the 101 of any seasoned traveller. On the other hand.... a tendency to doubt everyone and everything, or looking behind your shoulder every 30 seconds is, IMO, the best way to ruin an otherwise potentially great holiday... ;)

Having said that, since some folks like to make extra sure, in case of doubt or if you smell something isnt right, just get a Spanish menu... :D

in addition to these places, which are excellent, i'd recommend El Rio Alba and La Catedra, two places on Cervino in Palermo, very close to the US Embassy and the parks of Palermo. excellent places the last time I visited (new years 2003-2004). will be back next month and hope to go to those two, in addition to Cabana Las Lilas

Very good point. Of the two... I think Rio Alba is slightly better, but both are indeed places to have in mind for a good meaty dinner or lunch... ^ :D

One additional note: El Pobre Luis will be closed for holidays until February... :(

A tourist's view on these two places, and Estancia, which we also visited for lunch.

Estancia is more of a typical local's place, dressed up for tourists (two minutes from the Obelisco on Lavalle), great value, and a good selection of meats. Nothing fancy.

El Parillon - (Gaucho - if I remember, this is the spot right across from the Cemetery?), also decent, not a fancy place, great for a nice steak and glass of wine after the tour.

Las Lilas - definately a high end place, owned by a company that raises cattle, expect to pay $30 - $35 per person USD, with a good bottle of wine. IMHO, this is probably one of the top three steak meals I've ever had. The meat just tastes different than in the US - maybe not having all the hormones and crap in the meat is what makes the beef better, I don't know.

In general, we did not have a bad meal and that includes the Argentinian equivalent of a fast food parillijada in one of the malls. I can't get over the fact that you can either have McDonald's or a steak and the price is the same.

A very good assessment above.

As for the difference between US and Argentine beef, apart from the lack of hormones and other goodies, remember that most US beef is grain fed, and beef in Argentina is fed with grass and raised is less "industrialized" methods which allows for less fat concentration in one place (instead there are many small layers of fat that ensure that special taste).... :D ^