Asia - Laos Vientiane Luang Prabang Highway 13

Any comments on road travel between Vientiane and Luang Prabang on Highway 13?

(I'm aware of the comments on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree, rec.travel.asia, and the usual government advisory sites.)
Thanks.
Rich

Just to add to this old thread with the name of the Vientiane travel agent I've used a couple of time for a minibus from Vientiane to Vang Vieng.

A-Rasa Tour (http://infolaos.free.fr/uk/who%20are%20we.htm)
+856 21 213 633
arasa@laotel.com

Inexpensive and reliable (at least for my trips). Assume the minibus will be packed out and the aircon will work at about 50% (with sealed windows). Plan your seating accordingly.

I flew to L.P. from BKK so I have no first-hand experience. I did meet and talk with several intrepid travelers In Luang Prabang who rated the road trip from Ventiane as a long, but ok ride to a complete nightmare with a non-working toilet and a edgy gun-toting guard. All did say that the air conditioning was an problem and that the v.i.p. bus was not too comfortable.

I also chatted with couple who had hired a private car and driver. They said the scenery was amazing and had a wonderful trip. I don't know about the cost, can't imagine it would be too much and I'm sure it could be arranged at any travel agency.

Hope that sheds a bit of light.

I probably should have added a clarification in my updated posting that I've gone overland from Vientiane to Luang Prabang twice on Highway 13 since I first asked about this in 2003. I've done this by way of the minibus from Vietiane to Vang Vieng and then the tourist bus from VV to LPB.

It's about 3-3.5 hours from Vientiane to VV with one stop. 7 hours from VV to LPB with a couple of stops. There are cheaper alternatives. One can take the local bus from Vientiane's Morning Market to VV, which goes all the way to LPB or stop off in VV.

The ride is pretty interesting, especially around VV and north from there, through the mountains. It's safe, except for the usual concerns about traffic accidents.

There haven't been "rebel" attack incidents for some time, though, when I asked initially about this here, a couple of Swiss mountain bike riders had been attacked the year previously, as I remember it. You'll see soldiers along the way, but they don't seem much of a deterrence to anything. Some are asleep. One had a baby slung on his back. After all, this is Lao PDR.

I've also done this trip several times in the way you describe (bus from Vientiane to Vang Vieng and then minibus Vang Vieng to Luang Phrabang) and I have to add that I think that, as far as scenery is concerned, it's one of the most spectacular drives in Asia. The road is good, although twisty through the mountains. My last time was this past June (2006). There have been no attacks in a long time, and there's plenty of other traffic.

it's one of the most spectacular drives in Asia

I absolutely agree. We were there in May 2006 and loved the drive. If you need it, take some Dramamine or something similar before you get on the bus, as there is lots of twisting and curving through the mountains.

I found the VIP bus to be quite comfortable, though it did break down about two-thirds of the way to Vientiane. Most passengers -- all the other tourists and some Laotians -- crammed into what became a really, really full minibus. I sat by the side of the road, watched Laos go by, traded snacks with other passengers, and had a great time as the driver, etc., fixed the bus. After just an hour or so delay, the bus was working and we were on our way.

The scariest ride I've had from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang was when we came across the Beerlao truck broken down at the side of the road. When we got to LPB we drank as much as we could before LPB ran out. I don't remember a lot else about that trip.

One of the best things about globalization has been the introduction of Beerlao to Cambodia to replace the local swill.