Trip Reports - LAX - MIA - EZE - BRC and back courtesy of JetBlue, Aerolineas, Southern Winds....




electra
Feb 24, 04, 1:17 am
Little tired.. and a little late with this report.. any positive feed back and I'll post the final two flights, including one tres amusant story...

LGB-FLL
Jet Blue 258
Dec 15th 2003
21 A / B

Arrived at Long Beach airport for Jet Blue’s 8:45 am dep, leaving the Scion B in the Long Term car park, and shuttling it to the rather shoddy and gloomy main terminal. Easy curbside check in left us plenty of time to feel vaguely ripped by jet-fuel-like 5 dollar cappucinnos and to debate between In-Touch and People before heading for the gate. (We bought both.)

Boarding started a little late, but with a light load and airstairs at both 1L and 2L we got underway quickly. (As always the stroll across the tarmac reminded me of my childhood in Nassau, when my parents would hold my hand as we walked -on carpet- from the terminal to the BOAC 747). I’ve long admired the egalitarian nature of Jet Blue, though with the new expanded leg room (row 13 back) I guess there is now something to gnaw at type-Aers.

The Flight attendants were reasonably cheery, three youngsters and one more ‘mature’ lady who I pegged as a refugee from one of the majors, and though the jocular chatter on the PA threatened to be a little grating it quickly calmed down after the safety demo. A smooth take-off and we were away on a happily uneventful flight. We were pleasantly surprised by the generous service, two run throughs with drinks, and all the chocolate chip cookies, blue chips and snacks you could want. I skipped the Direct TV, watching The Stepford Wives on the ibook, and enjoying a self catered Trader Joes spread....


MIA - EZE
Aerolineas Argentinas 1303
Dec 16th 2003
31 C / D

After a pleasant time in Miami with the fam, it was off to MIA for our 20:30 departure on AR. Neither el novio or myself had ever been south of Mexico City and I admit to a certain amount of trepidation at the thought of such a long flight on a carrier I had hardly heard of. At Check-in we were advised of a late in-bound aircraft, and headed off to my favorite bar in Miami - the one at the top of the Miami Airport Hotel - amazing views of the runway, and very relaxing to a travelfiend like myself. Several extravagently expensive watered down cocktails later we headed to F16 and had our first introduction to the Argentinian way of doing things.

Despite the fact that boarding was clearly 30 or 40 minutes away, there was already a line of passangers winding its way across the gate area, staking out thier place with an impressive stoicism. Babies and children overran the whole of the F concourse, and for the first time (of many occasions) we noted how uh, loud Argentinian families can be.

Boarding finally began about an hour late, and while the gate agents initially tried to impose order, once the First class passangers were boarded it was ‘sharpest elbows wins,’ thankfully our bags were checked, and we felt none of the usual overhead-space-anxiety, and boarded in a relaxed manner.

Now in all honesty, after my four years of full-time UA flying, I expected that things might be a little different on AR. The first thing I noticed on stepping aboard the A340 was the steely eyed (male) flight attendants standing bolt upright in their sharp suits. No messy around with these guys! A civil greeting, and swift direction to our seats, and back we went. Making our way to the back of the bus we saw a few duct-taped arm rests, and some loose ceiling panels, but nothing overtly alarming. When we finally made it to our seats, 31 C and D, I was surprised at the ease with which we slipped into them, and realised that we probably had a good few inches more than typical UA economy. Each seat had a clean pillow and blanket, and, even better, the armrest between D and E was a double, effectively making the 2-4-2 seating into 2-2-2-2.

There began our AR adventure. Seated one row behind the bulkhead and lavs, I got to observe the FA’s in action (professional curiousity from this former stew!). The family in the bulkhead (2 adults, 4 kids!!!!) had the babies asleep on the floor before the seatbelt sign even came off, and several time during the night, discombobulated passangers attempted to walk over them! I was surprised to see several FAA infractions, especially upon landing, when the exit row pax all seemed to have bags aroudn their feet.

Service was decent. After about an hour wait, the flight attendants came through with a combined drink / meal service. Pasta, cold as a rock, and a few other vaguely nasty bits and pieces. Luckily, we had feasted on cocktail snacks in the airport bar, and with a mini bottle of vino tinto each (no charge!) were able to feel reasonably satisfied. Oddly, the carts rolled through twice more before our trays were collected. The first time was a second beverage service, the second, an after dinner drinks service. By the time the trays were picked up, they had been congealing on our tray-tables for an hour and a half.

A rather random movie selection played on the overhead screen throughout the night, Bad Boys 2, Seabiscuit, Matchstick Men and the Santa Clause 2. Luckily, the surprisingly comfortable seats allowed us to sleep - no video box underseat to block leg room + a swing down foot rest added up to a much nicer ride than most domestic carriers provide. Throughout the FA’s were attentive, not effusive mind, just polite and concerned. A few hours before landing we had a handful of cold medialunas (mini-croissants, delicious when fresh) and some truely undrinkable coffee, (the Nescafe on the side of the pitcher should have given that away) before an on-time landing in EZE.

All in all, a surprisingly pleasant journey.


Assuming my readers are sophisticated in the ways of the world, will just give edited highlights of BA. The astonishing exchange rate - 3 pesos to the dollar - allowed us to do pretty much whatever we wanted, and we made a point of booking the best hotels available, and eating at the best restaurants and so on.

We stayed at the Etoile in Recoleta. Amazing views (we lucked into an 8th floor room facing the cemetary) and pleasant service made up for the fading 70-kitsch shabbiness of the room. A pleasant roof top bar was a great place to drink an evening Quilmes before heading out on the town. We did hte usual tourist circuit, La Boca, San Telmo, Palermo Hollywood and so on. Tigre was absolutly gorgeous, and easy to reach on the train - a definate must.

One restaurant reccomendation - for a night when you want low-key, locals only, Italian cooking. Melo. Delicious simple food, I had the house veal special rouded off with lemon champ, literally a scoop of lemon sorbet bobbing in champagne - yummy. Ordered a fabulous Argentinian Syrah, and got too, uh, incapacitated to remember any further details.


AEP -BRC bariloche
Southern Winds
Dec 23d
Seats 4e/f
After several days in BA, we mistakenly headed off to Mar Del Plata, a gloomy beach town that reminded us of nothing so much as Atlantic City in Febuary. One day of rain, watching trash and small animals bob down the gutters, had us heading back to BA, and seeking out a friendly travel agent, who arranged for us to go to Barioloche.

We packed our bags, said farewell to the etoile, and went to the small domestic airport for our two hour flight on Southern Winds to Barioloche. Here again we witnessed a somewhat Germanic tinge to the Argentinian character. At the gate we were packed cheek to jowl on to two steamy buses. After an agonizing wait, the driver released the brake, pulled forward 30 feet, stuck it in park again, and we all got off. You’d think for taht they would have let the rabble make their own way to the aircraft.

Southern Winds is the slightly shabby step-sister to AR. The aircraft, an ancient 737, reminded me of the 707 in Airport, the one where there are no overhead bins, just little shelves to stow hats and coats. The flight attendants were nicely attired though in Pucci-esque swirly blue shirts. Push back, and a rather incomprehensible dual lingo safety demo, and we took off, speeding down the runway in a manner that proved what they say about Argentinian men. Once in the air we settled in, and watched in amazement as the FA’s manouvered a queen cart down the aisles for a light beverage and snack service. A Queen Cart? Hello? Was Jaqueline Bisset about to pop out to help with the pick-up?

All in all though, a pleasant trip. The views were amazing, as the mountains of Bariloche came up to meet us - afte r the steamy ness of BA the snowy peaks and wind lashed lakes were indescribably inviting.

Barioloche has an amazingly modern airport, probably the most sophisticated gateway in South America. Very small, with only one gate, but I noticed (plane buff that I am!) that the painted lines specified a 747 along with the more likely 737. Could only imagine what it would be like to see a 747 pull up there! We were picked up by the hotel and shortly arrived at the Three Kings.

Barioloche ROCKS! Go there. We were amazed by the Patagonian beauty, the fondue, the chocolate, the tobagan ride and everythign else. After I s$@%&%$ up our tour (mistaking tres for trece and causing us to miss the one pm departure) we rented a Fiat Uno for, on the rental companies advice, a self-adminstered off-road tour of the mountain scape. Perhaps not such a good idea. We finally turned around when I had foot to floor in second gear, and we were still hardly moving up a treacherous incline.


let me know if you want more....


mad_atta
Feb 24, 04, 3:09 am
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by electra:
let me know if you want more....</font>

Yes please! http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif Enjoying it so far...

opushomes
Feb 24, 04, 12:58 pm
Yes please. Good report so far. Please provide some price comparisons for those of us contemplating the journey south.


yevlesh2
Feb 24, 04, 9:38 pm
Great report! Could you write a bit more about BA itself? I am planning to go to South America next Winter, but haven't yet chosen whether to go to Rio, BA, or Santiago.

Was the city generally safe? How good is the public transportation there?

Also, what's a Queen cart?

snorkmaster
Feb 25, 04, 9:00 am
Keep it coming. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif

Nice to read a report about another airline.

electra
Feb 25, 04, 10:52 am
wow, fans! will finish trip report tonight....

will include more about BA and Bariloche and so on...

as for a Queen cart... they are the collapsible carts that FA's used to use for service pre-beverage carts and meal carts.... very 'vintage.'

A total pain in the B***, and the succesful use of it requires more grace and patcience than I posses...(you will see them only in First or Biz these days)

check back tomorrow!

sftrvlr
Feb 25, 04, 1:58 pm
Can't wait!

I'm jealous ...


------------------
sftrvlr

El Cochinito
Feb 25, 04, 2:04 pm
Mas por favor! Great trip report, thank you!

Anything else you'd care to add about the Etoile Hotel? We're booked in April in their "Diplomatic Suite" for a few days before taking Southern Winds north to Iguazu. And how was check-in and security at the AEP (domestic) airport in Buenos Aires for Southern Winds?

electra
Feb 25, 04, 10:55 pm
Here it is?Part Deux

Some general Argentinean Travel info? plane geeks skip to the bottom.

Very few people speak English, but in BA it was not a problem. Taxis are so outrageously cheap?our typical fare was a few dollars?that you can usually get where you’re going without a problem. If you speak any Spanish, people are amused to talk to you, and will tolerate your fumbled phrases; they have had minimal tourism for years now, and a lot of people seemed entertained to talk to ‘outsiders.’

The economy was still tanking when we were there (Christmas). We quickly found that things were about 30 percent of what we would have expected to pay for them in the US. Amazing meals, wine, beautiful leather goods, transport, hotel. However, Argentinians are ‘a proud race,’ and after a few days we realized that we had to tread a careful line to avoid offending waiters/drivers/sales people. They consider themselves, rightly, to be the equal of Americans and Europeans, and their current financial hardships are humiliating. Tipping is not extravagant?waiters expect maybe 10 percent at the most, taxi-drivers loose change?and in retrospect we offended by wildly over-tipping.

There were riots and protests, but we never saw them. Understandably there are a lot of angry people but you can avoid them if you want to. The streets swarm with young boys?five or six years old?who beg relentlessly. Heartbreaking, but you will have to deal with it if you go.

Some destination info?.

Barioloche…

Even at the beginning of the summer season Barioloche was chilly for the duration of our stay… but who cared! It was stunningly beautiful. Our hotel, the Three Kings, looked over a lake that churned with white caps; the clouds that swept across it were equally stunning. Our room was simple and unimpressive by comparism - but we spent about, oh, ten minutes in it. The room broke down to about 70 dollars a night, plus tours. The room came with breakfast, which we ate every morning in a dining room that over looked the Lord-of-the-Rings scenery. We rented a Fiat Uno for a day, for thirty dollars! Would recommend that, because the scenery is so heart-breakingly gorgeous you will want to stop at whim.

Whatever you do take the ski-lift up to the top of the mountain. It is absolutely f****** freezing but the most astonishing sight. When we got off there was a rainbow spreading from horizon to mountain top, and I, um, cried.

The restaurants in Barioloche are good. There were several impressive fondue restaurants; we spent Christmas Eve in a riotous fondue joint, drunkenly losing our chunks of bread in cheese. Le Marmite was good, and the Swiss Chalet was delicious but very, very slow. If you like chocolate you are going home laden with it. It is an industry there, and there are huge stores dedicated to it?and it is delicious.

Interestingly, Barioloche was PACKED with Swiss, Germans and Chileans, the latter escaping their higher prices for a cheap family Christmas.


Southern Winds
Dec 26th
BRC AEP

As I said before, Barioloche airport is one of the most impressive facilities I have seen, though small it is clean, modern, has great stores, and a quick check-in. We wheeled up to the Southern Winds check-in desk and were told “no seat assignments today, it is wide open.” Instantly I was a little suspicious of this, the flight to BA comes in from another destination further south, and I found it hard to believe it was ‘wide open.’ Still, we took our boarding pass, and spent thirty minutes stuffing more chocolate in our bags and looking through expensive European gossip mags in the stationary store.

There was only one (one!) screening station, and we were not allowed through till about thirty minutes before boarding; we were one of the first through. By the time the gate agent showed up there were about fifty people in the gate area, and though we had staked a claim near the door, we were over-ruled by the mob, who had started lining up as soon as they walked through the metal detector.

Unsurprisingly the plane was packed. We battled our way to the back and found a row of seats, me almost in tears at the disorder (yes, I have a little German in me to.). The aircraft, another ancient 737, squeezed every last passenger on, the doors closed, and we trundled down the runway.

At this point el novio and I were having one of our rare ‘silent wars,’ and to avoid it I chose to sleep till touchdown. Can’t tell you much about the flight other than the fact we were offered a meal, which sets Southern Winds apart from its American counter-parts.

As we came into BA, I noticed some erratic flying – felt like we were all over the shop, and as a former FA, takes a lot to make me notice. When we walked down the steps to board the bus, I passed the captain, and noticed that though his jacket was navy blue smart, his pants were black! Now if I know anything about pilots it is that when they lose their vanity they have lost their will to live… Can only imagine what his state of mind was!

Buenos Aires

L’Etoile in Recoletta was our hotel for the duration of our stay. We totally lucked into a cemetery facing room, and the view was astonishing. As Portenos say, ‘you haven’t really died until you’ve been buried in the Recoleta’ (sorry for spelling, totally dyslexic). Evita is there, as is anyone who is anybody.

The hotel is considered good, and we were more than happy with it. Like everything in BA it has been a while since it was ‘upgraded,’ and there is a lot of 70s décor, and vague shabbiness. But love it for its great location and friendly service. Breakfast is included and generous, a big spread of delicious media-lunas (mini croissants basically) and cold cuts and so on. Has a clutch of computers so you can go on-line as well. We paid about 65 dollars a night for it, though rates have probably changed. The architecture was pleasing too, in a Wallpaper magazine kind of way.

The absolute best thing about the view though is that arrivals and departures for the small domestic airport go in and out over you…. Yes, true plane geek here.

The tourist districts in BA are San Telmo (gorgeous, packed with antiques and vaguely alternative types). La Boca, the old port, very touristy, filled with rusting hulls, extravagantly decaying buildings and the tourist-pulling brightly colored homes. Our favorite though was Tigre, a very Fire-island-ish, weekend getaway area that is only accesabile by water. Take the train to the Tigre, then grab a water bus. Make sure you walk around and explore. It is tranquil like you wouldn’t believe.

The main shopping drag is Florida, go nuts.

Mar Del Plata.


Not much to say about this sea-side town. Not thinking, we went there instead of Punte’del Este in Uraguy. It was fairly tacky unfortunately, and though we had fun walking along the coast, and eating at the amazing Palacio del Bife, it kind of sucked. We packed up early and took the coche cama (a bus with business class seating) back to BA. Our hotel was the best of our entire stay, so if you do go to MDP, stay at the Dos Reyes.

Finally, sadly, our stay was over.

Aerolineas Argentina
EZE – MIA
Dec 28

We took the Aerolineas Argentinas flight home to Miami.

EZE is an odd airport, like everything in BA, there is an air of faded splendor and slightly erratic customer service. We checked in, were directed to pay our exit fees (slight panic till we realized Master Card was accepted). Enjoyed our last coffee, before going through security.

I beeped. No one stopped me.

Now, I’ve always mocked the TSA; when I was flying for a living I saw a hundred examples of why domestic aviation security is a joke, but still it was a little un-nerving to be waved through after a definitive “BEEEEEP.” When we arrived at the gate there was a more thorough manual search, every bag opened, every passenger wanded, but still…

Boarding began on time, and as in Miami, it was ‘pushiest goes first,’ we chilled, and reached out seats, A and B in the mid-thirties, relaxed. Again, the leg-room was generous and surprising, pillows and blankets on every seat, and little foot rests made for a comfie seat.

Wiped out from our trip I passed out, and woke two hours later (Malos Muchachos Dos was just finishing) to find there had been NO service. Apparently the Captain thought there was turbulence. The Wuss. I’ve completed my trademark United-dazzling-first-class-meal-service in worse. I was dying of thirst and sent el novio of to secure a sprite. The flight was uneventful except for an altercation caused, ahem, by my b’friend. He lost it at an Argentinian family whose child screamed throughout the flight. No comment on this situation, he was right to be angry at their indulgence of the brat, I mean baby; but I know first hand how hard a situation this is to control.

Food – horrible. Service – friendly. Movies – the same as the flight down. In case you are wondering, Santa Claus 2 really BITES.


Allright, this is it. Argentina is a beautiful country, I loved it. If you need any more specific info, let me know.

tfjim
Feb 26, 04, 11:04 pm
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by electra:
...There were riots and protests, but we never saw them. Understandably there are a lot of angry people but you can avoid them if you want to. The streets swarm with young boys?five or six years old?who beg relentlessly.

...

EZE is an odd airport, like everything in BA, there is an air of faded splendor and slightly erratic customer service.
</font>

What year did all this happen??

I ask because I just visited BA for the first time last month. Over the course of the month I was in and out of BA 3 times, spending a total of 7 nights. I didn't experience anything like you describe above... Maybe I'm a space cadet or something, but the place seemed entirely normal to me. Protest mobs? Riots?

Also, the airport you describe must be the Aerolinas side of things as the other side, Terminal 2?, is much newer and much nicer. AA, UA, etc. all fly out of T2.

electra
Feb 27, 04, 12:09 am
our visit was over Christmas this year. I'm not sure of the subtlties of the protest-but it seemed they were commemorating an anniversary of some sort. There were three days where La Casa Rosa (I think the name of the government building) had protests out side of it - but we avoided and not a problem...

As for airport, no idea, Just say dozens of AR Airbus and one 47.. didn't see any American carriers.

ElvisNYC
Feb 28, 04, 5:56 pm
Quote from the original poster--

"They consider themselves, rightly, to be the equal of Americans and Europeans, and their current financial hardships are humiliating"

So, you believe Argentines are not equal to Americans or Europeans because they are in a recession??? http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/rolleyes.gif http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Bariloche is the most sophisticated gateway in South America.. Sure!

Riots and protests... I think you mean the Madres de Plaza de Mayo, which would be considered a protest instead of a riot.

Glad you had fun and all.



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