Trip Reports - MSP to Rome via AMS mostly about food




cecelia
Nov 26, 03, 4:03 pm
It was very sad seeing the huge piles of flowers and notes left at the Victor Emmanuel monument to remember and honor the 19 Italian soldiers killed in Iraq. Their caskets were laid out at the monument until the day of the funeral.

The flight left MSP late because of circuit board problems and they put us on another plane. It was a packed flight but the FAs kept their senses of humor despite dealing with things that would have really ticked me off.

My husband and I have been to Rome separately a few times and this was our first trip together. What made this trip special was the apartment in the south end of Trastevere near the train station.

Just outside our building was a farmers market where we bought fresh seafood, pastas, bread, cheeses, meat, fruits, vegetables, dried fruits, nuts, flowers every day but Sunday. One day I was making pasta and sent my husband down to buy a chunk of parmesan. It was so nice being able to eat when and what we wanted. The hardworking people who were out there at 5 am setting up 6 days a week greatly impressed us. They were happy, friendly and nice to us despite our poor Italian.

We carried sandwiches/fruit/water in our backpack and had picnics in scenic, ancient locations. My favorite Italian sandwich bread is kind of a big puffy, crusted bun that's hollow inside. Fill it with bufalo cheese, artichokes, red peppers, ham, whatever's on hand, and the moisture from the cheese soaks into the bread and takes away the dryness.

My husband wanted pizza and the apt had no oven so we went to a neighborhood place that was very good and reasonable--Pepito's. We had pizza with sausage and mushrooms, huge salad with tuna, corn, arugula and bread, fried mixed plate of baccala, zuchini flowers and suppli, liter of wine-$21 E.

While sightseeing we had pizza al taglio a couple times when we saw places with a high turnover.

Our neighborhood is famous for the Sunday Pt Portuense flea market and I was out there before 7 am. People were still setting up and it was a sight. Running down the street for about a mile and off every side street and square, traffic blocked off. Vendors hawking everything imaginable, except fruits and vegetables.

When we returned to the apartment at the end of the day, we were shocked to see the clean up. The garbage collectors were hosing down the streets and scooping up all the junk that had been left behind into the big trucks. This was a major clean up and takes place each week.

Besides the normal tourist sights, we visited Ostia Antica which was much more than I expected. Should have gone there much sooner--what a place! Anyone arriving by train to visit Ostia Antica I suggest going to the Museum entrance first to familiarize yourself with the history and layout. The paper guide sold at the entrance near the train station is extremely poor and there are some better guidebooks in the museum at the other end. We ran out of time but there is also a very nice castle within easy walking distance that's worth a look. If you don't take a lunch, there is a brand, new deli/bar near the museum building.

Thanks to another FTer, Antonio, resident of Rome, who suggested visiting the Oppio Antica, Appian Way, ancient road, on Sunday. This is the day it's closed to most vehicular traffic and one of the best Catacombs, St. Callisto, is open. You must get there before 11:30 to get in on the last English speaking tour before the 2-3 hour lunch break. For once we had great timing and spent a perfect day out there. If you choose to look for an restaurant or bar in an ancient setting or rent bikes to ride over the cobblestones, it's all there. You can also see the ancient aquaducts or just ride the busses all around when you tire.

I would also like to thank those who posted about Food Village at the AMS airport.

Feel free to move this to appropriate forum.




[This message has been edited by cecelia (edited Nov 26, 2003).]


B747-437B
Nov 26, 03, 5:44 pm
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by cecelia:
Feel free to move this to appropriate forum. </font>

This forum is indeed the appropriate one for this kind of post. An excellent report too I should add.

Thanks
Sean (B747-437B)

Moderator
Trip Reports

Bretteee
Nov 29, 03, 12:05 pm
How far is Ostia Antica from Rome by train? Is it south?

Thank you.


lalala
Nov 29, 03, 5:45 pm
You can take the normal train service from the Ostiense station to Ostia Antica for about 2 Euros. I think the trip is no more than 45 minutes and you see some not so interesting suburbs on the way.

I love Trastevere, but have not been impressed by Porta Portese. I remember having a women on the 21 bus tell us that we have to keep our bags close to us if we are going -- we weren't but appreciated her advice.

We have a weeks stay in Rome in late December, like you we are staying near a market (Campo de Fiori) and am always amazed at the amount of food and boxes that are left at the end of each afternoon. The servizo ecologico do an amazing clean up every day to transform the market!

I also agree about a taglio pizza -- better the turnover, the better the pizza....

lala

cecelia
Nov 29, 03, 10:10 pm
I was coming back to add some things I just remembered. Thanks for replies.

Ostia Antica is near the Fiumicino Airport and there are many ways to get there. By train, you end up being dropped off at the train station nearby the "scavi" which is being upgraded. Ostia Antica used to be on the Tiber until the Tiber decided to change course. But that's part of the lesson. Oh, there is a new way to get there that we didn't try. You can now boat the Tiber from just south of the Trastevere train station to Ostia Antica. I read the cost was ~15Euro. Our landlady was very happy that boats are using the river again but we had the weekly ticket.

We bought the weekly transportation ticket upon arriving at the airport for 15 Euros. It covers most public transportation and is called the CIS (Carta Integrata Settimanale). Incredible bargain.

They have added a new mini-bus 115 that goes up to the top of Janiculum Hill (both directions) and through lots of Trastevere alley streets. The view is great up there day and night, perfect for picnics or a caffe at the bar. We loved riding that bus through the narrow streets of Trastevere. One night got very interesting when the road was blocked and the driver just kept honking. There was a large argument between the lady driver and the shop and car owners as she was tapping the cars. This bus leaves from viale Trastevere right by the river every 15-20 minutes and goes to the new bus station near St. Peter's. There you can connect with other mini buses 116, 117 which go to Piazza di Popolo, Spagna area, and one drops you off right next to the Pantheon for the best gelato place Giolitti--try the RISO (rice) as we haven't found it any place else.

To get to Giolitti take the street that goes straight out from the right front of the Pantheon, not the one on the right that angles off to the right. Walk about 3-4 blocks, keeping as straight as you can, always looking off to your right for the sign over storefront. I can't remember the name of the street but we were there as late as 10 pm some nights. I like riso with baci, riso with bosca, etc.

Another thing we stumbled on when trying to visit the Ara Pacis was the burial place of Augustus nearby was having a grand opening. There was a military band playing and dignitaries giving speeches. However, the Ara Pacis next door was under renovation and all covered. We will visit there again.

While listening to the band, I noticed commotion a couple of blocks over. We went to see what was happening. This was Saturday night and I couldn't believe the passegiata that was happening along via del Corso. It was wall to wall people strutting their stuff. The street was closed to vehicular traffic, but I did see a few taxis and police trying to get through. We spotted an empty bench to sit and watch. We saw young people flirting, old folks walking with canes, high fashioned ladies in spike heels and furs walking with men in suits, babies sitting down in the middle of everything refusing to budge, lots of leather and cigarettes. We finally got up and joined in.

Regarding the flea market, my daughter and I had been warned about the pickpockets, by some "knowledgable" Americans the last time we tried to go. They discouraged us so much we just left. This time, I went out by myself whilst he was still sleeping wearing husband's big down jacket with lots of inside and zippered pockets for my cash. I didn't feel one bit threatened and was very happy to check out the deals. You can buy most everything there at big savings.

We saw a huge, permanent market with clothes, leather goods, and food over in Testaccio where I noticed the prices were much lower on certain items than we had bought at the market near our place.

Also--the Scavi tour at St. Peter's. It costs about $10, you have to reserve ahead but is well worth. You see the evidence that St. Peter is buried under the fabulous Bernini altar. You can visit the Vatican's German cemetery once you get inside the walls, past the Swiss Guards (ask them). Check your bags on the right side of St. Peter's as you can't take anything in and the tour guide will not bend the rules or wait.

Lala: I enjoyed staying near Campo on our second trip, especially at Christmas. There was a very good sandwich shop nearby where I got started on those hollow buns filled with cheese, artichokes and peppers.

I'll divulge our old favorite place in Trastevere where we ate every night on our previous trip. It's called San Michele Ristorante Pizzeria, Longotevere Ripa, 7, closed Mondays. It's changed physically from the last trip but the menu looked the same and they had wonderful food. We got hooked on the gorgonzola/arugula pizzas--not on the menu but they'd make us anything.

lalala
Nov 30, 03, 10:14 pm
Cecelia-

I'll check out your pizzeria this time.

I'm excited to see the Ara Pacis open, they were starting the competitions for design when I was a grad student. It was way cool to see the things the architects were coming up with.

We're going with a friend who has never been to Italy before. I think we're going to hit some of the highlights -- and wow -- a new boat service to ostia antica -- I think my taller half will be up for that.

re: riso gelato

Off of via arenula right by the piazza with the one tree (carioli?) right after you cross the tevere from trastevere to the ghetto/campo interface there is the most amazing gelateria with many different flavors of riso gelato. Its their speciality and its soo good.

I also love giolitti and love watching Roman familes scrum for their gelati...

Mmmm.. I can't wait, 28 days and a wakeup for pizza, cafffe camerino and campari.

cecelia
Dec 4, 03, 6:54 pm
Thanks for the tip about the riso gelato place. I know the area of which you speak and will remember the riso for the next trip.

Have a nice time. The weather there has been great.

antoniospqr
Dec 11, 03, 11:53 am
It's good to see people spending their precious time in the place I love the most, and having a pleasant stay.
And I'm glad someone follows my advices...
Antonio



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