Trip Reports - Hilton Africa Safari Award - Trip Report




WAFLYGIRL
Apr 8, 03, 10:46 am
Hilton Honors SAF8 (Africa Safari Package)

Let me begin by saying thank you to Hilton. What a spectacular experience. I had great expectations for this journey, and so often, those personal trips we anticipate the most, end up disappointing. My journey to Kenya exceeded all expectations. Africa has never been high on my vacation priority list, and I likely would not have visited for many more years had it not been for Hilton’s SAF8 award. I write this hoping that someone from Hilton will read this message and recognize that my suggestions for improvement are intended in a positive – opportunity to be even better - frame of mind.

Flew from SEA to NBO via PHL and LGW/LHR on US Airways and Kenya Airways. Business class through LGW on US, then coach on Kenya. Pay attention to seat assignments on Kenya. I made the mistake of not participating in seat selection and ended up in the last (non-reclining) seat in the cabin next to the lavatory. The 8 hour LHR to NBO flight was absolute misery. Cabin service on Kenya was rudimentary and brusque, but about what you would expect in terms of content. Personal video screens, 2 meals, etc. 2 calendar days later, arrived in Nairobi, and transferred to the Nairobi Hilton.

Check in at the Nairobi Hilton is a lengthy process. I was torn between irritation at the delay and appreciation for the hands on personal service. I just told myself to relax – stop being so “American” and enjoy it. Anyway, arrived, went to the reception counter, then escorted to the club lounge, waited about 1 hour for room to be ready, and then escorted to room. Flowers, fruit basket, and personal note from the manager were waiting in our upgraded suite. Make use of the business center if you have any hopes of e-mailing home. No such facilities exist at the Salt Lick Lodge. Forget work, I just mean to e-mail the family or friends that you have arrived.

Hilton apparently contracts the transportation/game drives/logistics of the safari package to Utc (United Touring Company). A very old and well respected safari operator based in Kenya. They should reconsider this – we found Utc service very perfunctory. Utc strictly adhered to the provided itinerary, provided clean and reliable transportation, and were equipped to address most any contingency that might arise. However, our driver/guide was not interested in going much beyond the bare minimum. He was not a communicator. He spoke english well, but was inclined to one word responses when possible and would only grudgingly respond when asked what this or that landmark might be, and forget any thoughts or comments on socio-economics, culture, or area history. Happily, we had spent our first afternoon visiting the Kenyan National Museum in Nairobi. I highly recommend it. A quick 2 hour excursion that provides a great information grounding on the country. The museum provided free personal guides (tip at end if you desire) that will walk you through wildlife displays and tribal/cultural displays that are very informative, if a bit shop worn and dusty. Need a good charitable cause – give to the museum! Also, beyond rethinking Utc, Hilton, tone down the warnings around personal safety in Nairobi. I appreciated the advice to use caution in and around Nairobi from the Hilton personnel, but after repeated warnings up to and including the advice that I should not to wear earrings as they might get ripped out of my ears, and finally learning that one couple had been chased down in the hotel van after setting off on foot and brought back to the hotel as it “was not safe to walk around”, I began to feel fearful. A warning/reminder is good, but it went a little over the top. (Subsequent time spent exploring Nairobi on foot – in the day time, with no valuables on my person – was enjoyable… and I am glad I recovered my courage enough to experience it.)

Our Utc driver/guide met us on day 2, and we began the 6 hour drive to the Salt Lick Safari Lodge. The drive was interesting, the roads - horrendous. Mainly driving on the transafrica highway (Nairobi/Mombasa Road). Those with back problems, plan well for severe endurance tests. There are two Hilton properties in the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary. Salt Lick Lodge and Taita Hills Lodge. Upon arrival, you will check in at Taita Hills lodge, then drive on for 10-15 minutes to Salt Lick Lodge. The picture on the Hilton website of Salt Lick Lodge captures it well.. A dramatic and beautiful setting that is very satisfying to pull up in front of. The rooms were high end basic but very acceptable. Buffet breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a variety of meats, vegetables, and fruits. Easy eating for any pallet. Each day brings an early morning and late afternoon game drive. Never having visited Africa before, our first 3 game drives ‘seemed’ amazing. We would drive around for several hours looking for animals. We saw 3 lions on day one, and a single giraffe and monkeys on day 2. Apparently there is a hippo near the dam, but we didn’t see it. That all seemed very satisfying until we began talking with fellow travelers that had visited other game reserves and were talking about HERDS of animals. We elected to take a side trip to Tsavo East game park. Thank goodness we did. Our driver didn’t want to go (there is a set fee for this optional extra… but he didn’t want to do it… but pushy Americans that we are, finally we prevailed). It was a wholly different experience. Wildlife abounds there. 2 hours from the Salt Lick. Massive elephant herds, giraffes, buffalo, zebra, etc. I could barely take the time to focus the camera before seeing something else photo worthy. Make sure and lunch at the Tsavo East Lodge. Spectacular hilltop setting with Elephant watering holes below. Easily 150 elephants grazing below us while we ate.

So, at the Salt Lick, you will be well fed and enjoy the setting, but don’t look for anything else. Bring something to entertain yourself in the long afternoons and evenings. Brainstorming over dinner one night resulted in the following ideas for Hilton:

1) Consider implementing a book exchange (just a shelf somewhere)
2) Some type of evening entertainment would be fantastic. A naturalist lecture, a video, speaker from the local tribal community, something. I would have happily paid a fee if asked simply to experience a new source of activity.
3) Consider creating a TV room and/or providing a computer with e-mail access. You feel pretty isolated as you can not walk anywhere on the property and are basically stuck in the hotel or in the safari vehicle for 4 days.
4) There is a pool at Taita Hills Lodge, but our driver was not available to take us there, so we did not experience that. Consider a shuttle van to take passengers on the 15 minute drive to the pool so that reliance on the individual driver/guides is not necessary.
5) Consider stocking the game reserve. Anyone intent on seeing wildlife will not be satisfied with the experience in Taita Hills. To be fair, this may be a seasonal thing and we just hit it wrong, but, more animals, or even the proactive suggestion to visit other nearby game reserves would be nice.

Week 2 (Lonrho Hotels – Amazing)

We, based upon previous FT trip reports, elected to defer our last night at the Hilton Nairobi (night 6 of the package) for one week, until the end of our second week in Kenya. Thanks to Hilton for accommodating this request. I had not made travel arrangments for week two. We planned to bargain/arrange something locally hoping to find more attractive pricing than found on the internet. However, after our visit at Salt Lick (lack of wildlife), the challenging roads, and the trip through some pretty economically depressed and just plain depressing areas, we were considering an early return to the USA. This is unheard of for me. Heeding advice from a family friend, we elected to visit the well known and respected “Norfolk Hotel” in Nairobi on our first night after returning from the Salt Lick. We bargained. Rack rate was 400 USD per night. We got $160 including breakfast. Fantastic property. Part of the Lonrho Hotel chain. Travel and Leisure best hotels of the world 2003. It is. The in house travel agent at the Norfolk works for Express Travel (A division of American Express Travel). On one trip through the Norfolk lobby, we sat down and shared our Salt Lick Lodge experience with her and our intention to return home early if we could not find a better alternative (more animals, more entertainment, easier travel). We quoted a price ($1000 each for transportation, lodging, meals, and activities) and asked if she could make a suggestion for week two. We hit the jackpot with that one! Amazing. She appeared at our hotel room an hour later with a fully planned itinerary that fulfilled every fantasy I ever imagined for a visit to Africa. We left the next morning on a 3 hour drive to the Mount Kenya Safari Club (Nanyuki, Kenya - Lonrho Hotels – Travel and Leisure Best Hotels in the World 2003) where we spent 2 nights. 2 of us and one driver/guide in the safari/transport vehicle. We had a suite, game drives, golf, pool, lawn bowling of all things, extensive multiple acre grounds protected by electric fence enabled one to walk around, a TV room, a book exchange, an internet connection, 7 course dinners (no casual attire please), complimentary evening entertainment, etc. Amazing. Stretched my ingenuity at making one pull over jumper/dress and one pair of slacks look dressy though. Very British colonial atmosphere. Also, our Express Travel guide was great. We learned so much from him in the 3 days we spent together. I highly recommend Express Travel.

We then flew in a 9 passenger Cessna to Lonrho’s Mara Safari Camp (part of the Masai Mara and beginning of the Serengetti plains – Also a Travel and Leisure best hotel) with Air Kenya. Amenities on the 45 minute flight? Definitely. They passed a candy dish! The aerial view was fantastic. Skip the$300 balloon safari and take a flight! A luxury permanent tented camp with bathrooms ensuite. All the tents sit on the banks of the Mara river which is brimming with Hippopotamus. Afternoons and evenings on the porch in front of our tent were well spent with a cold cocktail consumed to the bellowing honks of the hippos. A memory I will cherish for the rest of my life. 3 game drives a day from Mara Safari Camp. Lots of animals. Our driver/guide was fantastic. I never knew that a vehicle could traverse some of the terrain we tackled. He had a knack for finding animals and at one point we were surrounded by a pride of lions, that actually sauntered over to enjoy the shade created by our vehicle. They were so close, my camera would not focus. Again, the camp offered an activity every evening, a library room with lots of information on local wildlife and tribal customs, pool, internet, etc, plus lots of fenced acres to facilitate pedestrian exploration. So, 3 nights in Mara, followed by another Cessna flight back to Nairobi. We even took a walking safari accompanied by 2 armed guards and a naturalist and came within feet of zebras and giraffes.

So, our last night in Kenya, back in Nairobi. At the Hilton. It was almost like coming home. I felt out of my depth with the luxury of the Lonrho Hotels, but very relaxed at the Hilton. Equally luxurious, but in the heart of a bustling city, you expect it. Maybe just more business oriented, probably just simply comfort in knowing exactly what to expect. Hilton sent us out with a bang. We were upgraded to the Presidential Suite. Really really amazing. The room has a guest book full of comments from the many heads of state that have stayed there. I was flattered to be deemed worthy, but too intimidated to actually sign the book myself….

In closing, thank you again Hilton. The trip would not have been possible without you. I continue to be a loyal customer and cheerleader and will work diligently to earn my next Hilton Vacation!

I would be happy to provide more info to anyone that wants it – if this post has not exhausted your need for minutia. By the way, got exit row seats on Kenyan Airways NBO to LHR which was a dramatic improvement, but was happy to hit business class on US Airways at the end (gotta luv those ff points).

Submitted with many smiles and fond memories - Amy


Sweet Willie
Apr 8, 03, 11:13 am
Thank you for the report. Very worthwhile read from someone who does not have Africa high up on his must do lists (it is near the top of the wifes though!)

Two ideas:

Have you forwarded this report (more spefically your input) to Hilton directly?
Please do so as I don't think our Hilton "lurker" is that active anymore on Flyertalk.

Also, please post this in the Flyertalk Africa Travel section as I feel it would be a worthy addition.

AGain, thanks.

fallinasleep
Apr 8, 03, 11:15 am
Thanks for sharing your report.

My question is: If you could choose only one part of your trip, would it be the six days courtesy of Hilton or the three days near the Serengeti/Masai Mara?

With regard to the long drive from Nairobi to the Salt Lick, another FTer, beaubo, has suggested flying into Mombasa and cutting the drive in half.


WAFLYGIRL
Apr 8, 03, 11:33 am
If I had to choose only one portion of the trip, I would opt for the Masai Mara / Serengeti portion. I was somewhat contemptuous of this in pre-trip planning as I prefer to get off the beaten track normally. However, in this case, conventional wisdom and popular advice proved to be more accurate. The Mara river area is fantastic, even though well touristed. There seemed to be 3 permanent tented camps in the general area. Lonrho's Mara Safari Camp, a place called Intrepids (spelling) and another that escapes my memory. There was a national geographic tour group at the Mara Safari Camp while we were there, so their travel division might be a resource.

As for flying into Mombasa. A good idea that we considered. I could not find a good way to do it while connecting with Hilton - but definately worth consideration if you can work it out.

BillMorrow
Apr 8, 03, 12:26 pm
Amy,

Glad everything came together for your trip. Sounds like it was great time. Will have to put it up on places to visit over the next few years.

IndyDavid
Apr 8, 03, 12:54 pm
Fabulous report! We had similarly unforgettable experiences in Sabi Sands game reserve in South Africa last November (http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/Forum34/HTML/000028.html). To everyone who doesn't think they want to go to Africa, GO!

David

mtacchi
Apr 8, 03, 1:44 pm
Sounds fantastic. Please provide Pictures if you can, Would love to see the hippos and lions!!

MArc

BizJet
Apr 8, 03, 2:46 pm
What an amazing journey and a great report!

As someone who doesn't get really far off the beaten path too much, I've had a lot of trouble wondering what an African safari vacation would be like. Thanks for giving me a great idea.

smooth
Apr 8, 03, 3:05 pm
Amy, fantastic report ! Thanks for the effort to write it and to share your experiences with us.
Btw, I love your writing style!

Wudy15
Apr 8, 03, 3:44 pm
Thanks for the report. We did this Hilton trip about 4 years ago and although very pleased with the Hilton hospitality we must agree that the wildlife is either very cunning!! or the reserve badly needs re-stocked.
Any reports of this award increasing from 250k?

Cheers

Alan

vander555
Apr 8, 03, 8:10 pm
Thankyou for your fantastic report. It has pushed me to move Africa further up on my places to visit list.

Cheers

FlyLots
Apr 9, 03, 8:44 am
WAFLYGIRL, great report - thanks. Sounds like you've been bitten by the Africa bug and know from personal experience that it's hard to get rid of once you have it.

For those considering a safari trip, let me put in my plug for Botswana. I have never been to Kenya, but many people I have met on my travels in Botswana are true safari "addicts" and they all rate Botswana as probably top of their list. I would agree. Vehicles are totally open (as oppossed to vehicles in Kenya which I understand have to be enclosed by law with a sort of pop up roof for animal viewing/photography). We were on one drive where the head of a pride of lions thought we were getting a little too close to his women and let out a roar that you could feel in your bones because of the open vehicle. Also Botswana appears to be a bit more "off the beaten path" but is one of the most stable democracies in Africa. Can't wait to go back again. Although, my next safari will likely be to Namibia to the Etosha which I have heard is also amazing.

Jac747
Apr 9, 03, 3:40 pm
Flylots-if you see this reply I'd love to hear more about your travels to Botswana. We are heading there in August. Please email me at travel747@msn.com. Thanks!

flymetothemoon
Apr 9, 03, 5:33 pm
Enjoyable trip report! Mara Safari Camp is now on my list. Several years ago I spent six weeks doing safaris from South Africa to Kenya, and now I have another reason to go back for what sounds like a special experience. I had champagne breakfast along the Mara at the end of balloon ride, and would love to spend more time there.

btw, in my experience, Botswana safaris are excellent but cater to high-end spenders. Kenya safaris run the range of "backpacker" $50 day to luxury $1000 day and have decent travel infrastructure. As a result, I think Kenya offers the most family-friendly safaris. Tanzania safaris are more classicly "rough" with less infrastructure (no or few roads) but unique experiences like Ngorogoro crater. The Serengeti stretches across Tanzania and Kenya so you basically see the same types of animals depending on the season.

Basically, Africa is wonder-ful and offers a safari for every type of budget and comfort level.

ws8n
Apr 10, 03, 12:50 am
Actually come this june, I might go to Tarzania via JNB/CPT. Main objective is to visit Serengeti and Kilimanjaro (not sure if it is worth climbing). Any experts out there that can provide some pointers?

flymetothemoon
Apr 10, 03, 8:23 am
re Tanzania, consider a few days safari, then a "Kili" climb, then go relax/recover in Zanzibar's old city and nice beaches.

Kili is the world's highest non-technical climb (>19,000 ft) and requires min 5 days up and back. The sunrise view from the summit, in cold thin air, is memorable.

Sweet Willie
Apr 10, 03, 9:17 am
something near and dear to my heart,

what was the food like at these resorts?

Are there meal plans or is it included in the award?

fallinasleep
Apr 10, 03, 10:23 am
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by ws8n:
Actually come this june, I might go to Tarzania via JNB/CPT. Main objective is to visit Serengeti and Kilimanjaro (not sure if it is worth climbing). Any experts out there that can provide some pointers?</font>

I had been planning to combine a Kili trip with the Hilton Safari. Now, I am thinking I may just save my points for hotels along the way and do the more traditional Kili climb plus Ngorongoro Crater/Serengeti tour combo with perhaps a sidetrip to Tsavo if I enter or exit through Kenya. Botswana is probably too expensive as a safari destination since it caters to the higher end crowd. Kruger in South Africa would be a good compromise.

So, what's your plan once you get to JNB/CPT? Are you buying a separate ticket to Dar es Salaam or Kili from there? Part of the same award ticket? Only one major carrier, KLM, flies into Kili, as a continuation of their DAR service, and I have never seen an award seat on that route every time I've checked...

If you are going in June, I assume that you have been training for the "climb." It may not be a technical climb, but you are still dealing with freezing cold and high altitude at the top (in contrast to the rainforest at the base), so the failure rate is still fairly high. Of course, you will have porters carrying most of the stuff up, so you will only need to carry a daypack. In terms of timing, ideally, you will plan to summit a few days after the full moon, which happens to be on the 14th this June 2003. You probably know that your final ascent up the mountain will start around midnight, so the more "light" the better.

If you want itinerary help, go to www.mtsobek.com (http://www.mtsobek.com) for some of their Kili packages, then do a google search on local outfitters near Arusha if you don't want to pay extra for the "value added" from a US based operator.

Finally, if you haven't seen the recent IMAX film on Kilimanjaro, I would do that. It is one of the main IMAX features currently. Personally, I was expecting a better film, but it still offered a nice overview of what to expect. There's also a new coffee table book from National Geographic out of Kilimanjaro if you don't get around to seeing the IMAX film.

Also, you should start getting your visas ready, as Tanzania requires one. South Africa does not IIRC.



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