El Cochinito
Oct 12, 02, 6:29 pm
Part 1 of this report is at: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003140.html
Thursday October 3
Santiago de Chile
After exiting customs I walked outside the terminal to look for the TransVIP van. I had to wait 20 minutes before a van was available that was going to the Providencia district of Santiago. As it turned out it was a good thing I brought directions to the B&B as the driver wasn’t quite sure where it was.
The ride from the airport through mid-afternoon traffic wasn’t bad. Upon entering Santiago proper I first noticed that, for the most part, the streets were relatively clean as compared to other Latin American cities I have visited. However there was a LOT of graffiti spraypainted on just about any open wall.
Our driver took three other passengers home before delivering me to Marilu’s Bed and Breakfast (see http://www.bedandbreakfast.cl) (http://www.bedandbreakfast.cl) in Providencia. The owners, Marilu and her husband Miguel, were waiting for me and gave me a warm welcome.
The B&B was in a great location for tourists, just a few blocks from the Salvador metro station and Avenida Providencia. Also nearby is a mini-mart with an ATM, an internet café (apx. US$1.50 per hour to use their high speed internet terminals), and several restaurants. The street is quiet and it is quite safe to walk around even at night.
Let me quickly mention here that I found Santiago to be a safe and comfortable city to visit. Everybody I met and talked to were happy to welcome me to their city and country. The other guests of the B&B echoed my sentiments about Santiago and its people.
I had arranged to stay in the one room Marilu has with a private bath; there are a few other rooms available with a shared bath. For US$35 per night (including breakfast; there is no hotel tax for foreign visitors to Chile) I thought it a great deal. My very clean room was on the third floor as are nearly all the rooms. There is a small kitchen which guests are allowed to use, a dining room where breakfast is served each morning, and a living room with cable TV (both English & Spanish channels). A telephone is available; the shop down the block sells long distance telephone cards – I bought one for 3000 Chilean pesos which gave me 30 minutes worth of credits for calling back to the USA.
After I got settled in my room, Marilu invited me to the dining room where we completed the registration formalities then she gave me a thorough orientation on Santiago. Besides showing me on a map where we were located, she gave me ideas on places to go, what to do, and most importantly how to get there using public transportation.
Although it was tempting to take a nap, I decided to go out and explore my new neighborhood. I found the ATM and internet café; after checking e-mail I decided to walk to the nearby Bellavista neighborhood to find a place to eat. Bellavista is the home of a lot of lapisazuli stone jewelry shops, nightclubs, discos, and restaurants. I poked around a couple of the jewelry shops and decided on a pair of candlesticks to take back home. It was getting close to 5 in the afternoon and I was getting HUNGRY. As I was walking by one restaurant, the tout in front assured me that his place was the best on the block if I wanted to eat great seafood. I figured his place was probably as good as anything else and went inside.
The restaurant is La Palmera, located at Pio Nono #201/223 in Barrio Bellavista (tel. 735-9418). I started with a fresh ceviche washed down with a liter of “schop” (the local word for draft beer). Next came a seafood soup, a wonderful broth loaded with clams, mussels, shrimp, and other goodies. For my main dish the waiter suggested the grilled salmon with the restaurant’s signature sauce accompanied by fried potatoes and fresh asparagus. It too was quite good. Somehow I managed to find room for a small flan for dessert. If I remember right the tab came to just under US$10 including tax and tip.
It had been a long day and a long trip so I walked back to my new home. During my stay there were several guests, including a physician from Poland, a radiological engineer from Brazil, a couple from England on an extended RTW journey, a family from France, and a couple from Florida. It was interesting meeting folks from different countries and trading travel stories.
Friday October 4
Santiago de Chile
Marilu starts setting out breakfast at 7:30. I wandered into the dining room around eight and fueled up for the morning. The day had dawned with clear skies and there was a slight breeze blowing. It was the perfect day to head over to Cerro San Cristobal and ride the teleferico (inclined railway) to the top of the hill where I was told to expect a fantastic view of Santiago and the Andes range.
After stopping in at the internet café to check e-mail, I walked to Pio Nono street and headed towards the base of the hill where the teleferico station is located. The surrounding area is Santiago’s Metropolitan Park; there is a zoo here, a funicular (cable car), and other attractions. A round trip on the teleferico was under US$2. A group of high school students on a field trip joined me on the trip up the 45 degree slope to the top of the hill. Some of the kids noticed my camera and asked if I would take a picture of them and send them a copy. I was happy to oblige.
At the top of the hill is a patio with a view of Santiago at your feet and the snow covered Andes mountains rising up like a wall to the east. Snacks, sodas, and souvenirs are for sale at the stands surrounding the patio. Further up the hill is a statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the city (and an outdoor amphitheater used for church services). I hiked up the steps to the top and was rewarded with an even better view of the surrounding metropolis.
I ended up spending a couple of hours up on top of San Cristobal, enjoying the view and relaxing in the sun. Finally I decided it was time to head back down. Near the teleferico station I saw a maintenance man so I stopped to ask him a few questions about the teleferico. It turns out it was built back in the 1920s and uses equipment and motors manufactured in Italy. The original equipment is still in use; the only modern modification is an automatic brake in case something should happen to the operator. It has been in continuous operation for over 80 years with only one accident (the operator fell asleep, hence the safety device mentioned above). The maintenance man then asked if I wanted to see the machinery room and of course I did. So he took me in and showed me around, proudly explaining how the whole mechanism worked. So I boarded the teleferico for the trip down, confident in knowing just how it worked!
By now it was getting close to lunchtime, so I started hunting around for a place. On one of the side streets in Bellavista, I ran across a sign advertising soup, sandwiches, or today’s special in what looked like somebody’s house. So I went inside and asked what’s cooking? For US$5 I got a small bowl of broth, a plate of roasted chicken, rice, and vegetables, and a slice of cake. And of course a bottle of Pepsi. Of course it was all delicious and the price certainly was right!
After lunch I decided that I wanted to visit the artisan center at Los Dominicos; Marilu had recommended this as The Place to Go to shop for crafts. Her instructions were easy, simply get on the eastbound 326 or 327 bus on Avenida Providencia. The Dominican Church would be easy to spot.
I found the Santiago bus system to be easy enough to use, following a few basic rules and understanding the following observations:
- It is cheap, only 310 pesos per ride. Exact change is easiest to use, but not required.
- The bus number and destination are easy to spot.
- The word for bus in Chile is bus, not camion, gua-gua, or autobus.
- Some buses have on-board cashiers where you pay your fare.
- Other buses you pay the driver. He is quite talented, able to take your fare, make change, give you a receipt, read a comic book, drink a soda, eat an empanada, and speed down the avenue . . . all at the same time.
- The religious icons hanging in the front of the bus are an integral part of the driver’s safety system. Might be useful for the passengers too.
- Keep your fare receipt as inspectors could ask to see it.
- When waiting to board at the bus stop, make sure your bus will stop there. Not all buses stop at all bus stops; a list is sometimes posted.
- Even if you are at the right bus stop, you should flag down your bus by waving your hand. The bus still may or may not stop.
- When the bus stops, even in traffic away from your stop, you can still board.
- On main avenues, buses have their own lanes. Competition between drivers seems to be the norm as all of the buses have evidence of sideswiping. At one point we were roaring along at a good clip just two inches from the bus next to us.
- The bus makes good time, even in traffic, as the driver weaves across multiple lanes to avoid traffic jams.
- If you have to stand, hang on to something or you will join the religious icons hanging from the windshield when the driver hits the brakes. Which he does, often.
- Watching passengers jump on or off the bus while it is moving stopped being a novelty after a few trips.
- Vendors hop on the bus between stops to sell candy, popsicles, snacks, soda, etc. Exact change is appreciated but not necessary.
- A signal button or cord is used to notify the driver that you want off at the next stop. You can exit from the front or rear door.
At Los Dominicos is one of Chile’s largest artisan centers. There are woodworkers, leatherworkers, sculptors, painters, etc. It is built to look like a rustic village, with lots of little shops and cafes along twisting pathways. In many shops the owners were hard at work at their craft.
After returning to Marilu’s on the bus, I was ready for cocktails and dinner. A couple from Florida had checked in and we decided to walk over to a neighborhood restaurant recommended by Marilu called “El Fogon” for an early dinner.
After a round or two of pisco sours, we shared a plate of empanadas stuffed with cheese plus a delicious cubed breast of chicken marinated with a garlic based sauce. The menu leaned towards chicken and seafood; I chose the boneless grilled chicken breast. For dessert I had some fresh ice cream made with a local fruit; the waiter tried to explain to me what it was. Whatever it was it was delicious. For the three of us our tab was only US$30 with tax & tip.
Saturday October 5
Santiago de Chile
Figuring Saturday to be a good day to visit downtown Santiago, I jumped on the metro (subway) after a late breakfast. The metro is easy to use and fairly self-explanatory.
My first stop was to the post office to take care of the obligatory postcards. That done, I headed over to the pedestrian mall running through downtown. Remembering the delicious ice cream from the night before I stopped at a stand and got a cone. I enjoy just sitting and watching people go by, so I did that for a while finishing off my ice cream.
My next stop was the Plaza de Armas in front of the Presidential Palace. An open air exhibit of civil engineering projects planned for Chile in the 21st century was on display in front of the palace. I then walked through the palace courtyard, stopping to talk to the guards and take a few pictures.
I then headed over to the National Cathedral, stopping to watch the Socialist Party demonstration in the plaza in front of the cathedral. They were a noisy bunch, playing drums in the style of Japanese Taiko drummers and carrying banners. I ducked into the relative peace of the cathedral. After resting inside, I walked to the central market, which is where the fishmongers work and is a great place to eat fresh seafood. I explored the market for awhile but skipped the restaurants as they were all crowded and I wasn’t particularly hungry.
There is a metro stop near the central market so I got back on the subway to head back to my neighborhood. After a short siesta I walked to a nearby pizza place for lunch then took the bus to a shopping center and supermarket. At the supermarket Chilean wines were on sale starting at US$1.50 and up.
Back at Marilu’s I met up with the folks visiting from Florida and we brainstormed dinner plans. We decided to splurge on what was touted as a very nice seafood restaurant called Aqui Esta Coco (Address: La Concepcion 236, Providencia, Tel: 235-8649). It was easy to get to by metro and a short walk.
The restaurant is located in a converted mansion. In short the food and service were excellent. Everything was top of the line. I still have the receipt, so here is what we ordered and the prices:
To Start
3 Pisco Sours: 6,600 Pesos
1 order of Sea Bass Ceviche: 4,500 Pesos
2 orders of Seafood Empanadas: 3,600 Pesos
Main Dishes
Congrio de Chef (Conger Eel): 5,400 Pesos
Trout Stuffed With Crabmeat: 6,200 Pesos
Chilean Sea Bass: 5,400 Pesos
Wine
2 bottles of Casa La Postolle Clasico Sauvignon: 15,000 Pesos
(recommended by the sommelier when I told him I wanted a nice sauvignon for a medium price – it turned out to be an excellent choice)
After Dinner
3 Irish Coffees: 9,600 Pesos
1 order of Torta de Merenge: 2,400
Total before tax/tip: 58,700 Pesos (apx. US$80)
Behind our table was an interesting painting depicting a group of people eating at the restaurant. I asked the waiter about it and he explained it was a caricature of the owner and his well-connected friends; they all come in to eat on a regular basis. The waiter said that the artist had designed one of their menus, so he went to get one to show me. He ended up presenting it to me as a souvenir of my visit. Very cool!
For some reason the Santiago subway closes early, even on a Saturday, so we asked the restaurant to call us a taxi. A quick 1200 peso ride and we were back at Marilu’s.
Sunday October 6
Santiago de Chile
It was my last morning in Chile before my trip back to Miami to attend my conference on Monday morning. Marilu had called TransVIP to arrange for my pickup at 11:30 a.m. for my 2:30 p.m. Varig flight back to Buenos Aires, connecting to United in the late evening for Miami.
I took a last walk through "my" neighborhood, it was quiet since it was Sunday, and stopped at the kiosk on the corner to buy the Sunday paper and a telephone card. The internet café was closed, so I walked over to the mini-mart and bought some water and soda before heading back to Marilu’s.
At 11:15 a.m. the TransVIP van showed up. There were only two other passengers and I was the last pickup. I said my goodbyes to Marilu and Miguel, then I was off to the airport.
Little did I know that I was not quite finished visiting South America...
Part 3 is at: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003144.html
[This message has been edited by El Cochinito (edited 10-13-2002).]
Thursday October 3
Santiago de Chile
After exiting customs I walked outside the terminal to look for the TransVIP van. I had to wait 20 minutes before a van was available that was going to the Providencia district of Santiago. As it turned out it was a good thing I brought directions to the B&B as the driver wasn’t quite sure where it was.
The ride from the airport through mid-afternoon traffic wasn’t bad. Upon entering Santiago proper I first noticed that, for the most part, the streets were relatively clean as compared to other Latin American cities I have visited. However there was a LOT of graffiti spraypainted on just about any open wall.
Our driver took three other passengers home before delivering me to Marilu’s Bed and Breakfast (see http://www.bedandbreakfast.cl) (http://www.bedandbreakfast.cl) in Providencia. The owners, Marilu and her husband Miguel, were waiting for me and gave me a warm welcome.
The B&B was in a great location for tourists, just a few blocks from the Salvador metro station and Avenida Providencia. Also nearby is a mini-mart with an ATM, an internet café (apx. US$1.50 per hour to use their high speed internet terminals), and several restaurants. The street is quiet and it is quite safe to walk around even at night.
Let me quickly mention here that I found Santiago to be a safe and comfortable city to visit. Everybody I met and talked to were happy to welcome me to their city and country. The other guests of the B&B echoed my sentiments about Santiago and its people.
I had arranged to stay in the one room Marilu has with a private bath; there are a few other rooms available with a shared bath. For US$35 per night (including breakfast; there is no hotel tax for foreign visitors to Chile) I thought it a great deal. My very clean room was on the third floor as are nearly all the rooms. There is a small kitchen which guests are allowed to use, a dining room where breakfast is served each morning, and a living room with cable TV (both English & Spanish channels). A telephone is available; the shop down the block sells long distance telephone cards – I bought one for 3000 Chilean pesos which gave me 30 minutes worth of credits for calling back to the USA.
After I got settled in my room, Marilu invited me to the dining room where we completed the registration formalities then she gave me a thorough orientation on Santiago. Besides showing me on a map where we were located, she gave me ideas on places to go, what to do, and most importantly how to get there using public transportation.
Although it was tempting to take a nap, I decided to go out and explore my new neighborhood. I found the ATM and internet café; after checking e-mail I decided to walk to the nearby Bellavista neighborhood to find a place to eat. Bellavista is the home of a lot of lapisazuli stone jewelry shops, nightclubs, discos, and restaurants. I poked around a couple of the jewelry shops and decided on a pair of candlesticks to take back home. It was getting close to 5 in the afternoon and I was getting HUNGRY. As I was walking by one restaurant, the tout in front assured me that his place was the best on the block if I wanted to eat great seafood. I figured his place was probably as good as anything else and went inside.
The restaurant is La Palmera, located at Pio Nono #201/223 in Barrio Bellavista (tel. 735-9418). I started with a fresh ceviche washed down with a liter of “schop” (the local word for draft beer). Next came a seafood soup, a wonderful broth loaded with clams, mussels, shrimp, and other goodies. For my main dish the waiter suggested the grilled salmon with the restaurant’s signature sauce accompanied by fried potatoes and fresh asparagus. It too was quite good. Somehow I managed to find room for a small flan for dessert. If I remember right the tab came to just under US$10 including tax and tip.
It had been a long day and a long trip so I walked back to my new home. During my stay there were several guests, including a physician from Poland, a radiological engineer from Brazil, a couple from England on an extended RTW journey, a family from France, and a couple from Florida. It was interesting meeting folks from different countries and trading travel stories.
Friday October 4
Santiago de Chile
Marilu starts setting out breakfast at 7:30. I wandered into the dining room around eight and fueled up for the morning. The day had dawned with clear skies and there was a slight breeze blowing. It was the perfect day to head over to Cerro San Cristobal and ride the teleferico (inclined railway) to the top of the hill where I was told to expect a fantastic view of Santiago and the Andes range.
After stopping in at the internet café to check e-mail, I walked to Pio Nono street and headed towards the base of the hill where the teleferico station is located. The surrounding area is Santiago’s Metropolitan Park; there is a zoo here, a funicular (cable car), and other attractions. A round trip on the teleferico was under US$2. A group of high school students on a field trip joined me on the trip up the 45 degree slope to the top of the hill. Some of the kids noticed my camera and asked if I would take a picture of them and send them a copy. I was happy to oblige.
At the top of the hill is a patio with a view of Santiago at your feet and the snow covered Andes mountains rising up like a wall to the east. Snacks, sodas, and souvenirs are for sale at the stands surrounding the patio. Further up the hill is a statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the city (and an outdoor amphitheater used for church services). I hiked up the steps to the top and was rewarded with an even better view of the surrounding metropolis.
I ended up spending a couple of hours up on top of San Cristobal, enjoying the view and relaxing in the sun. Finally I decided it was time to head back down. Near the teleferico station I saw a maintenance man so I stopped to ask him a few questions about the teleferico. It turns out it was built back in the 1920s and uses equipment and motors manufactured in Italy. The original equipment is still in use; the only modern modification is an automatic brake in case something should happen to the operator. It has been in continuous operation for over 80 years with only one accident (the operator fell asleep, hence the safety device mentioned above). The maintenance man then asked if I wanted to see the machinery room and of course I did. So he took me in and showed me around, proudly explaining how the whole mechanism worked. So I boarded the teleferico for the trip down, confident in knowing just how it worked!
By now it was getting close to lunchtime, so I started hunting around for a place. On one of the side streets in Bellavista, I ran across a sign advertising soup, sandwiches, or today’s special in what looked like somebody’s house. So I went inside and asked what’s cooking? For US$5 I got a small bowl of broth, a plate of roasted chicken, rice, and vegetables, and a slice of cake. And of course a bottle of Pepsi. Of course it was all delicious and the price certainly was right!
After lunch I decided that I wanted to visit the artisan center at Los Dominicos; Marilu had recommended this as The Place to Go to shop for crafts. Her instructions were easy, simply get on the eastbound 326 or 327 bus on Avenida Providencia. The Dominican Church would be easy to spot.
I found the Santiago bus system to be easy enough to use, following a few basic rules and understanding the following observations:
- It is cheap, only 310 pesos per ride. Exact change is easiest to use, but not required.
- The bus number and destination are easy to spot.
- The word for bus in Chile is bus, not camion, gua-gua, or autobus.
- Some buses have on-board cashiers where you pay your fare.
- Other buses you pay the driver. He is quite talented, able to take your fare, make change, give you a receipt, read a comic book, drink a soda, eat an empanada, and speed down the avenue . . . all at the same time.
- The religious icons hanging in the front of the bus are an integral part of the driver’s safety system. Might be useful for the passengers too.
- Keep your fare receipt as inspectors could ask to see it.
- When waiting to board at the bus stop, make sure your bus will stop there. Not all buses stop at all bus stops; a list is sometimes posted.
- Even if you are at the right bus stop, you should flag down your bus by waving your hand. The bus still may or may not stop.
- When the bus stops, even in traffic away from your stop, you can still board.
- On main avenues, buses have their own lanes. Competition between drivers seems to be the norm as all of the buses have evidence of sideswiping. At one point we were roaring along at a good clip just two inches from the bus next to us.
- The bus makes good time, even in traffic, as the driver weaves across multiple lanes to avoid traffic jams.
- If you have to stand, hang on to something or you will join the religious icons hanging from the windshield when the driver hits the brakes. Which he does, often.
- Watching passengers jump on or off the bus while it is moving stopped being a novelty after a few trips.
- Vendors hop on the bus between stops to sell candy, popsicles, snacks, soda, etc. Exact change is appreciated but not necessary.
- A signal button or cord is used to notify the driver that you want off at the next stop. You can exit from the front or rear door.
At Los Dominicos is one of Chile’s largest artisan centers. There are woodworkers, leatherworkers, sculptors, painters, etc. It is built to look like a rustic village, with lots of little shops and cafes along twisting pathways. In many shops the owners were hard at work at their craft.
After returning to Marilu’s on the bus, I was ready for cocktails and dinner. A couple from Florida had checked in and we decided to walk over to a neighborhood restaurant recommended by Marilu called “El Fogon” for an early dinner.
After a round or two of pisco sours, we shared a plate of empanadas stuffed with cheese plus a delicious cubed breast of chicken marinated with a garlic based sauce. The menu leaned towards chicken and seafood; I chose the boneless grilled chicken breast. For dessert I had some fresh ice cream made with a local fruit; the waiter tried to explain to me what it was. Whatever it was it was delicious. For the three of us our tab was only US$30 with tax & tip.
Saturday October 5
Santiago de Chile
Figuring Saturday to be a good day to visit downtown Santiago, I jumped on the metro (subway) after a late breakfast. The metro is easy to use and fairly self-explanatory.
My first stop was to the post office to take care of the obligatory postcards. That done, I headed over to the pedestrian mall running through downtown. Remembering the delicious ice cream from the night before I stopped at a stand and got a cone. I enjoy just sitting and watching people go by, so I did that for a while finishing off my ice cream.
My next stop was the Plaza de Armas in front of the Presidential Palace. An open air exhibit of civil engineering projects planned for Chile in the 21st century was on display in front of the palace. I then walked through the palace courtyard, stopping to talk to the guards and take a few pictures.
I then headed over to the National Cathedral, stopping to watch the Socialist Party demonstration in the plaza in front of the cathedral. They were a noisy bunch, playing drums in the style of Japanese Taiko drummers and carrying banners. I ducked into the relative peace of the cathedral. After resting inside, I walked to the central market, which is where the fishmongers work and is a great place to eat fresh seafood. I explored the market for awhile but skipped the restaurants as they were all crowded and I wasn’t particularly hungry.
There is a metro stop near the central market so I got back on the subway to head back to my neighborhood. After a short siesta I walked to a nearby pizza place for lunch then took the bus to a shopping center and supermarket. At the supermarket Chilean wines were on sale starting at US$1.50 and up.
Back at Marilu’s I met up with the folks visiting from Florida and we brainstormed dinner plans. We decided to splurge on what was touted as a very nice seafood restaurant called Aqui Esta Coco (Address: La Concepcion 236, Providencia, Tel: 235-8649). It was easy to get to by metro and a short walk.
The restaurant is located in a converted mansion. In short the food and service were excellent. Everything was top of the line. I still have the receipt, so here is what we ordered and the prices:
To Start
3 Pisco Sours: 6,600 Pesos
1 order of Sea Bass Ceviche: 4,500 Pesos
2 orders of Seafood Empanadas: 3,600 Pesos
Main Dishes
Congrio de Chef (Conger Eel): 5,400 Pesos
Trout Stuffed With Crabmeat: 6,200 Pesos
Chilean Sea Bass: 5,400 Pesos
Wine
2 bottles of Casa La Postolle Clasico Sauvignon: 15,000 Pesos
(recommended by the sommelier when I told him I wanted a nice sauvignon for a medium price – it turned out to be an excellent choice)
After Dinner
3 Irish Coffees: 9,600 Pesos
1 order of Torta de Merenge: 2,400
Total before tax/tip: 58,700 Pesos (apx. US$80)
Behind our table was an interesting painting depicting a group of people eating at the restaurant. I asked the waiter about it and he explained it was a caricature of the owner and his well-connected friends; they all come in to eat on a regular basis. The waiter said that the artist had designed one of their menus, so he went to get one to show me. He ended up presenting it to me as a souvenir of my visit. Very cool!
For some reason the Santiago subway closes early, even on a Saturday, so we asked the restaurant to call us a taxi. A quick 1200 peso ride and we were back at Marilu’s.
Sunday October 6
Santiago de Chile
It was my last morning in Chile before my trip back to Miami to attend my conference on Monday morning. Marilu had called TransVIP to arrange for my pickup at 11:30 a.m. for my 2:30 p.m. Varig flight back to Buenos Aires, connecting to United in the late evening for Miami.
I took a last walk through "my" neighborhood, it was quiet since it was Sunday, and stopped at the kiosk on the corner to buy the Sunday paper and a telephone card. The internet café was closed, so I walked over to the mini-mart and bought some water and soda before heading back to Marilu’s.
At 11:15 a.m. the TransVIP van showed up. There were only two other passengers and I was the last pickup. I said my goodbyes to Marilu and Miguel, then I was off to the airport.
Little did I know that I was not quite finished visiting South America...
Part 3 is at: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003144.html
[This message has been edited by El Cochinito (edited 10-13-2002).]