Trip Reports - PresRDC's Big RTW Adventure Part V: The Easter Island Two-Step




PresRDC
Jun 24, 02, 9:43 pm
March 16, 2002

When I left off, I had arrived at the Hotel Carrera in downtown Santiago de Chile. I would highly recommend this hotel to anyone visiting Santiago. Unlike the modern luxury chain hotels, which are located north of the city center in the business district, the Hotel Carrera is located right in the heart of the city on the Plaza de la Constitution (which is where Pinochet and his henchmen ran the Chilean government). The hotel itself is great and is a member of the Leading Hotels of the Worlds, so you know it is of high quality. Although I paid a very discounted rate, I got a room with a king size bed, a separate seating area, a separate shower and bath, a separate room for the toilet, and a complimentary fruit basket. Quite nice indeed!

As I arrived in the early morning, I spent the day exploring Santiago. This was my first time in South America and I was quite impressed. Santiago is a bustling city, but also seemed fairy well ordered. It has some very nice open piazzas and some grand buildings.

In the late afternoon I met a Chilean friend, Mario and his wife, Paulina who studied with me in London last year. They took me to a local crafts market, where I bought a lapus lazuli Moai. They then took me to a local supermarket and recommended three nice bottles of Chilean wine to take back to our mutual friends in South Bend. We went to their house for drinks, met-up with some of their friends, and enjoyed a nice dinner. Chileans eat very late; dinner was at 9:00 PM and the restaurant was virtually empty and didn’t fill-up to we left at about 11:45 PM!

The next day Mario and Paulina took me to San Cristobal for some scenic views of Santiago. I would highly recommend visiting here as the views were really stunning (and it wasn’t even that clear of a day). Later, they drove me to the airport. As Paulina actually works for Lan Chile (she is in charge of in-flight magazines), she offered to take my wine bottles, rap them and leave them for me in the Lan Chile lounge for me to pick-up on my return from Easter Island the next evening. This was truly great service!

March 17, 2002

Lan Chile flight LA 833 (SCL-IPC); Boeing 767-300ER; Business Class; Seat 1A

I got to the airport at 1:30 PM for a 4:00 PM departure, as I was eager to explore what appeared to be a very beautiful and modern airport. Although Mario and Paulina dropped me off right in front of the Lan Chile First and Business Class check-in area (which is located in a separate room from the main check-in), I was unable to find it so I walked around a bit until I gave-up and asked directions. Once there, check-in was quick as there was no line. I did have to pay some extra taxes that apparently were not collected on my ticket, although I think this was more a function of my ticket lacking a complete tariff breakdown than a mistake by AA’s tariff department. In any event, it was only a few dollars and, unlike the day before, they took credit cards.

I walked the terminal a bit and really liked what I saw. There was an Air France flight getting ready to depart and a few other planes at the gates, but basically it was empty. I went to the Salon VIP, Lan Chile’s lounge in SCL. The lounges are all located one level down from the departure gates and have elevators. Lan Chile’s lounge is located right next to the Admiral’s Club.

The lounge itself was nice, with a modern décor and some nice computer workstations. While it had plenty of alcohol, there was nothing to eat save for some pre-packaged nuts and some cookies. I checked my e-mail and learned that one of my law school friends had a baby that was born two months premature and was in critical condition. Needless to say, this put a damper on the trip, but, thank God, the baby is fine and was with his father when he got his law school diploma in May.

An hour later, they put out some finger sandwiches and I helped myself as I was hungry and they were quite good. Soon, our 767 arrived at the gate and boarding began soon after (I assume it arrived from somewhere else at the airport as no passengers disembarked -- those of you who have been to SCL know this is quite visible from the lounges).

Although Lan Chile no longer offers First Class on this service (which, incidentally continues from Easter Island to Papette in Tahiti), the AA Around the World Desk was able to snag me a First Class seat on this sector. The seat was nice and I had the one next to me free, which is always a plus. Lan Chile’s planes have one row of First Class in a 2-1-2 layout and seats, which resemble AA’s First Class seats on the 767-300 and the Pacific-configured 777s, reclined fully flat. There was also a liquid crystal display on the front bulkhead, which was showing soothing images of Chile’s natural beauty.

After the usual pre-departure drinks (and a plate of nuts), we were airborne with no wait to reach the runway. Our route was basically a straight shot to Easter Island. We left the Chilean coast about 10 minutes after takeoff and didn’t reach land until seconds before touchdown. Flying time was just about 5 hours.

There was no menu on the flight, but we did get a wine list, which was presented in a corkboard cover. Drinks were served soon after, followed by dinner. I don’t exactly remember the choices and, as there was no menu, I cannot reproduce it here. I do recall having beef, and I think the other choice was tuna. There was also a choice of appetizer, but alas, I do not recall the choices. The appetizer and a cheese course were served on the tray and water and more drinks were served. The hot dishes came soon after and I recall being satisfied with my choice. The tray was cleared and a separate dessert tray was served. I recall there being a choice between fruit and a caramel flaun, which was my choice (and a good one at that).

After the meal, I sampled Lan Chile’s in-flight entertainment. This was by far and bar none the best system I have seen. There was a personal video screen and about five movies from which to choose. The movies were on-demand and could be paused and rewound. I watched The Last Castle, with Robert Redford and James Gandlefini. Then I sampled the audio entertainment and it to was on demand. I can tell they must have had individual CDs loaded, because it would skip when we hit turbulence. There was also on-demand video games and I entertained myself listening to Tracy Chapman, Didio and playing Tetras (yah weird combo, I know).

Now, I rarely comment on this as I think it is somewhat sexist, but I challenge anyone to find a more uniformly gorgeous cabin crew than was working this flight.

As the sun began to set, I noticed the water was getting closer. The seatbelt sign came-on and it was a only a few minutes until we landed. The runway at Easter Island is quite long as it is an alternate landing site for the Space Shuttle (or so I’ve heard). Anyway, just as the first glimpse of Easter Island came into view, we were crossing the runway threshold. The pilot managed to get us stopped just before the turn-off to the ramp area, as otherwise we would have had to do a 180 on the runway (not that there was any other air traffic). The “terminal” at IPC is a trip and is exactly what you want an island airport’s terminal to be (there are a few pictures on Airliners.net, if you are curious). As there are only a few flights each week, the arrival of out plane drew quite a large crowd, many of whom seemed to be in the secure side of the airport. Anywhere else I might have cared, but here, I was like what the hell. I was the second off the plane and, as you might expect, there was no jetway.

I had no checked baggage, so it was out the door and into the arms of 50 people trying to get me to stay at their hotel. As I had a reservation at the Vai Moana, I just looked for my name and sure enough, it was there. We had to wait around for a while until everyone else got his or her bags as the hotel only had one shuttle.

See the rest of the report at the end of this thread. Due to the 10,000 word limit, I have to split it. Stupid. :mad:


RTW4
Jun 25, 02, 9:26 am
A truly wonderful report. I will be taking LA from LAX-SCL in a couple of months. Looking forward to hearing your report on the SCl-LAX flight. Thanks a lot

ozstamps
Jun 27, 02, 2:39 pm
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Although Lan Chile no longer offers First Class on this service (which, incidentally continues from Easter Island to Papeete in Tahiti), the AA Around the World Desk was able to snag me a First Class seat on this sector. The seat was nice and I had the one next to me free, which is always a plus. Lan Chile’s planes have one row of First Class in a 2-1-2 layout and seats, which resemble AA’s First Class seats on the 767-300 and the Pacific-configured 777s, reclined fully flat. </font>

Great report. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif

Joh and I are flying to Easter Island in J Class on same flights in about 6 weeks time. VERY interested to learn that by paying Business you can get the FIRST class seats! We will talk to Qantas about that tomorrow. What was deal re NOT getting them back to SCL? Were those seats full, or they would not offer that choice? How does the J seat size/recline compare to say US product if we can't swing F?

Good tip too about the check-in at SCL being in a separate room for J and F. We have 8 hours to kill in SCL between our UA flight arriving and Lan Chile flying out

And your comments on the hotel is interesting. Joh gets really eaten alive by mozzies and you seem to have suffered. So she should pack lots of repellent there? We are there about 3 days. Was it only around hotel you got bitten, or are they island wide? And $US100 cash for 3 hours of a guide seems kinda expensive to us with pathetic pacific pesos. Was that the going rate - did you check with others?

For anyone interested, please see the other thread on our Easter Island visit August 11th below. Maybe some other FT'ers want to join in?

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum95/HTML/002065.html

------------------
~ Glen ~


ozstamps
Jun 27, 02, 3:10 pm
You said computers at check in Easter Island were slow. That reminds me. Was there any public internet access that you found whilst on the island?

------------------
~ Glen ~

PresRDC
Jun 27, 02, 4:42 pm
Glen,

I really wasn't there long enough to need internet terminals, so I can't help you there. I know the airport didn't have any.

As for the first class seats, I really don't how AA was able to get one on the outbound, but not the return. I was traveling on a first class ticket (a Oneworld Explorer AONE5 fare, so that probably helped) and I am Oneworld Sapphire. On the return flight, there wasone open seat in the first class cabin, so I don't know why AA was unable to get it for me.

As for the insects, it probably wasn't as big a problem as I made it out to sound. It was more the fact that there wasn't a screen on the window that bugged me (no pun intended) than any actual bites. When i was out touring the island, I didn't notice any bugs. Of course, you'll be there in a completely different time of years, so keep that in mind. I would be safe and bring as much repellent as you think is reasonable.

The tour was expensive, but since my trip was so short, I didn't have the time to shop around. It might have been more expensive because it started at 7:00 AM. I really don't know. I do reccomend some kind of a guide (either private or with a group) as the history and archeological theories behind the Moai are very interesting.

Hope you enjoy. It is a real special place. I think you'll enjoy Lan Chile as well.

ozstamps
Jun 27, 02, 5:26 pm
Thanks for fast reply. OK - you were on a FIRST class award. In which case why on earth did you not get the spare seat on return flight??? First Class seat on a First Class reward. Makes sense to me! Why didn't you query the check-in desk at IPC? As ther was only one row of F, if the BP showed anything esle ... they stiffed you.
It was your seat left vacant!

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/confused.gif

AFAIK that plane now continues to SYD, after Tahiti. Lan Chile started that service as QF codeshare recently.

------------------
~ Glen ~

ExMo
Jun 27, 02, 5:40 pm
Glen -

There are less expensive group tours. I believe they are in the US$25-35 per person range. The US$100 tour is something that the Vai Moana seems to specialize in for the person doing a quick turn -- maybe other locations on the island do the same thing.

BTW, calling the Vai Moana a hotel is a bit of a stretch. It's a home with some guest cottages out back. Nice people (I got a freebie mini Continental breakfast before we left for the tour) but about 6 levels below the Westin Sydney. Although they did not have a telephone, TV, radio or AC in the room the thing that concerned me the most was the lack of an alarm clock to make sure I would be up in time for the tour. I needn't have worried. Being a city boy I always thought the roosters crowed at sunup. The ones on Easter Island do -- but at sunup in SCL, 2 time zones to the east!

Mats
Jun 27, 02, 7:55 pm
PresRDC,

I hope you liked "One Day in September." It really blew me away. You share my taste... I'm also a Tracy Chapman fan.

Thanks for your trip report; you've piqued my interest about visiting Chile and Easter Island.

Yours,

Mats.

PresRDC
Jun 27, 02, 8:17 pm
Glen,

It actually was not a First Class award, but rather a paid First Class Around the World Fare (albeit discounted First Class), but that only makes your case stronger for why I should have gotten the First Class seat.

I did ask at IPC, but they said it was full and with their slow computers, I may have missed the flight if I waited for them to try. I probably could have moved up there as the flight attendants recognized me from the day before, but I preferred to keep my window seat.

I guess in the grand scheme of things, it wasn't a big deal.

Seat 2A
Jun 27, 02, 9:34 pm
A most excellent and informative report, Pres. I only wish my experience with Lan Chile out to Easter Island had been so nice! That menu transcript describes a service far superior to my Business Class flight between ICL and PPT. All we got was a sandwich! And a small one at that!

Thank You for the report! I look forward to reading about the rest of your journey.

PresRDC
Apr 30, 04, 11:24 am
This was originally all posted in the first post in this thread, but the stupid new 10,000 word limit is making life difficult. :mad:

Eighteen Hours on Easter Island (March 17, 2002 – March 18, 2002

It was dark by the time we reached the hotel, but I wanted dinner so I got a recommendation from Edgar, the hotel owner, and I took a taxi there (costing only about one dollar it seems everyone on Easter Island preferred U.S. currency). The meal was fine, I had tuna sashimi and a swordfish in a lemon caper sauce. Midway through the meal, I heard the Lan Chile 767 depart for Papette. I got back to the hotel at around 10:00 PM.

The Vai Moana was cheap, but you get what you pay for. The room was not air-conditioned and the bathroom was – let’s just say – rustic. I guess it was clean, but compared to the Hotel Carrera, it was a dump. There were no screens on the window, so the choice was to either swelter or get bitten. I chose the latter.

After a restless sleep, I got up at 5:30 AM as I was to meet my guide at 7:00 AM. Ramon, my guide, was waiting for me and we left the hotel just as the sun was coming-up. As I was leaving that same day, I had to squeeze in a tour in the early morning. As it turned-out this worked out perfectly. Ramon took me to Ahu Tongi, which we reached just as the sun was coming up. Words (at least not my words) cannot describe how beautiful it was to see the sun rise over the Moai and the cliffs. I took many pictures and had my photo taken in front of what are probably the most famous Moai, thereby accomplishing #247 on my life’s to do list. Next, we went to the quarry were they carved the Moai. As this was up on a hill, it afforded a great view of the island. We visited a few other spots, including a volcanic crater that supplies the island with fresh water, before returning to the hotel so I could change before my flight back to SCL. Ramon drove me to the airport and I paid him USD 100 for the three-hour tour. It was money very well spent.

PresRDC
Apr 30, 04, 11:25 am
March 18, 2002

Lan Chile flight LA 834 (IPC-SCL); Boeing 767-300ER; Business Class; Seat 5A

While I slept and toured, the Lan Chile 767 flew to Papette, had a two-hour ground stop and began its return trip to IPC and SCL . . .

I arrived at the airport at around 10:15 AM for an 11:45 AM departure. The IPC terminal is tiny and there are only four check-in counters, all of which were being used by Lan Chile. The Economy Class line was quite long, but there were only a few people in the Business Class line. Nevertheless, it took the better part of an hour until I got to the front of the line. Apparently, the computers were slow and it was taking forever to check everyone in. Somewhere in the middle of my wait, the Lan Chile 767 arrived.

There was a large group from Chicago ahead of me on line, who were apparently on some kind of astronomy tour. Sounded interesting. Once I got to the front of the line, it was getting to close to departure time. To save time, I just had the agent check me in for the flight to SCL and I figured I would worry about my LAX flight once in Santiago. Nevertheless, it still took 10 minutes to complete the transaction and I once again had to pay an additional tax. By this point, I was begging to feel as though I was single handedly supporting the Chilean economy. I hope they plan on erecting a statue in my honor. ;)

With my boarding pass in hand, I headed through security, which was no where near as tight as it is in the USA (and we know that is not saying much). The flight was already boarding, so I walked across the tarmac to the plane where the same crew that operated my outbound flight was there to greet me.

I was unable to get a First Class seat on this flight, so I had to “slum it” in Business Class. Yes, I lead a rough and tragic existence. Row 5 was the bulkhead, which is my preference. Once again, I had no seatmate. Business looked to be about half full and Economy looked packed. Judging from the people with blankets, I guess about half the people came from PPT and stayed on board in IPC. There really would be no reason to deplane from what I saw of the waiting room (there is no Business Class lounge here).

The seat itself was quite comfortable and was electronically controlled. It had the same on-demand video and audio system that First Class had.

We took off on time and began the 4-½ hour trip back to SCL. As with the previous flight, it was mostly over water (a land bridge between Easter Island and the mainland did not appear overnight). We were served a lunch on this flight and, this time, we actually got menus (leading me to reach the insightful conclusion that the lack of menus on the last flight was an error). Here is a transcript:



LUNCH / DINNER

TO START

Champagne “Henriot Brut Souverain”

THE CHEESES

A selection of cheeses served with grapes or dried fruit and crackers

APPETIZERS

TUNA CARPACIO
Tuna marinated and served with a mint cous cous salad

ROAST BEEF
Slices of filet served with a soy sauce and red chili pepper sauce, topped with julienne green and red peppers

FROM THE BAKERY

Choose your own selection from our variety of warm breads

AS THE MAIN ENTRÉE, WE OFFER

GRILLED BEEF
Grilled beef accompanied by a tomato Provenzal and grilled asparagus

CHICKEN BREAST WITH A GRUYERE CRUST
Chicken breast topped with Gruyere and Serrano ham crust, accompanied by sautéed artichoke hearts and mushrooms

FETTUCCINI
Fettuccini served with a Roquefort creamy sauce, green asparagus and grated Parmesan cheese

OUR DESSERT
Tiramisu tart served with chocolate sauce, or selection of fresh, seasonal fruit

Freshly brewed gourmet or instant coffee, decaffeinated coffee, tea or herbal tea

Liqueurs – Chocolates

For those who are curious, here is the menu on the PPT-IPC leg:

BREAKFAST

TO START

Orange juice, fresh seasonal fruit, yogurt or cereal, coffee or tea

WARM ENTREES

Sweet milk crepe with orange sauce

Turkey ham with cream cheese on white bread

FROM THE BAKERY

Choose your selection from out variety of breads and toast, served with butter and preserves

WINE LIST (presented separately in a corkboard binder, with photos of each bottle)

RED WINES

Qunita Generacion 1999

Cabernet – Syrah Reserva 2000

Merlot Reserva 2000

Seleccion Limitada 2000

WHITE WINES

Nativa Chardonnay 1999

Sauvingnon Blanc 2001



I ordered the beef appetizer and the chicken main course. The beef was excellent and this chicken was good, but slightly overcooked. We again had a cheese course that was served with the appetizer and again we had a choice of dessert or fruit. As I do not like tiramisu, I opted for the fruit, which was fine.

For the rest of the flight I read One Day in September, about the 1972 Munich Olympics Massacre, and listened to more Tracy Chapman and Didio (they were the only choices I liked). I also played some Tetras and Hangman.

We arrived on time and arrived at the gate soon after. I was the third off the plane and headed for the transfer section as I did not want to go outside security again. Of course, the agent would not let me though as I did not have a boarding pass for my next flight. She didn’t speak much English and I bet if I spoke some Spanish, I could have gotten through (there seemed to be a communication problem). Since I was rejected, I had to go through Immigration and Customs (even though it was domestic flight) and had my bag x-rayed again.

I then headed up to the departure level to get checked-in for my flight to LAX.



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