Trip Reports - New York, after the attack




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QuietLion
Sep 22, 01, 10:50 am
No towers

Hunnybear and I weren’t about to cancel our weekend in New York just because of some terrorist attacks so we switched our Starwood Free Weekend from W The Court to W Union Square and triple-checked our flight arrangements to make sure they were still on. Hunnybear was taking United from Lansing, Mich., and I had booked my first transcon on Continental because United had given up competing on price or service.

I had a 10:30 a.m. flight. Normally I would have taken a 9:30 taxi for the 10-minute ride to LAX but today I ordered a cab for 8:15 because of admonitions to arrive at least two hours before flight time. Traffic was light as usual all the way to the airport, where the north Sepulveda entrance remained closed and the Century entrance was still available only to commercial vehicles such as my cab. The airport was a ghost town, almost post-Apocalyptic, empty except for a few shuttles and buses. The last few cars remained in the off-limits central parking garage, waiting for their owners to return from extended trips and claim them, never to return. It wasn’t only New York that was hit.

We pulled up to Terminal 6. I gave the driver an extra buck just because and I wheeled by Briggs & Riley into the concourse. There was a healthy line for economy check-in but none at either the E-ticket kiosks or First Class. I chose the latter because I wanted to make sure it all worked. I showed my ID and asked a smiling but concerned agent if I could carry on my two bags as usual: my Briggs & Riley expandable with garment carrier and my Brenthaven laptop bag. She said they should be fine as long as I wasn’t carrying any shaving equipment. I asked about Mach 3 cartridges and several agents discussed the answer among themselves before replying they were OK today but last week they had confiscated them. I mentioned it looked like I had arrived far too early and she agreed. She offered to put me on the 9:00 flight and I agreed provided I could get First Class. No problem. It was already boarding.

About 15 people waited in line at the foot of the escalator to have tickets and IDs checked. Then at the top of the escalator the process was repeated. Security was as usual except there were more of them standing around and they made me put my cell phone and digital voice recorder through the x-ray. I had my ID scrutinized one more time by a serious-looking Continental agent just before boarding. I felt safe.

I wheeled down the Jetway, turned left, and found a fabled BusinessFirst cabin. I had seat 3B. More than half the 16 roomy seats were filled with uniformed Continental employees, including my seat opponent, a Cleveland-based flight attendant. Legroom was ample and the seat had nice electronic controls, a footrest, and multi-channel personal video. I got a coat-hanging service and a preflight coffee in a plastic cup and settled in for a nice flight. New electronic headsets came in a plastic bag with a note saying you could keep them. I kept a pair for a spare but whipped out my new Bose noise-cancelers for the duration. In coach, an announcement explained the movie was free if you brought your own headsets, the opposite of traditional practice.

We took off on time and quickly broke through the marine layer. It was a nice sunny day in LA if you weren’t on the earth’s surface. They quickly started the movies. They were all wrong compared to the program listing but I found a classic, Monkey Business, starring Cary Grant with Marilyn Monroe in a supporting role. As soon as the movie started the captain made his radio address over the dialogue. The video system did not automatically pause as it did on some United flights.

Breakfast was a choice of omelet, crepes, or cereal. I took the omelet. It came with a tablecloth and was preceded by an appetizer course of papaya and two large, delicious strawberries. They served it with regular silverware except for the knives, which were white plastic. Next came a choice of hot breads. I picked a fluffy orange-cranberry muffin. The main course included bacon, sausage, and tiny potato pancakes. It was all relatively good.

The movie finished and I switched to the main feature to watch classic episodes of Brady Bunch and The Odd Couple. A second food service came, a small but tasty plate of cheese and crackers not quite as generous as the one National serves on the 38-minute flight from Vegas to LA. I didn’t hear any announcement that the second video program would be starting but when I turned back there was an extremely annoying Dean Martin/Jerry Lewis movie on so I watched that and played with Monkeyboy until we started our descent into Newark.

Our approach took us on a path parallel to the Manhattan skyline from north to south. Through the haze and low clouds I could not tell if there was still smoke smoldering from the World Trade Center site but there were definitely no towers there. All the passengers craned their necks to look out. We looked in silence. We landed 25 minutes early.

We waited on the taxiway for some traffic and then headed for the gate. I gathered my belongings and wheeled them out into the concourse. There was a voice mail from Continental saying my return flight was canceled and I should call them. I decided to wait until I could hook up Monkeyboy and check schedules before returning the call. Hunnybear called immediately after. She had just landed in Chicago and had made her tight connection to LaGuardia with nine minutes to spare.

With plenty of time to get to New York before Hunnybear I decided to take the bus to Grand Central Station. I bought a ticket for $11 and waited only a few minutes for the coach. I had a view of a long row of Continental jets, mostly DC-10s. Transient parking next to the bus stop, formerly available to users of Continental’s small-package courier service, was now coned off with warning signs from the FAA. The bus pulled in and a kid loaded my bag underneath after asking where I was going. The ticket agent had thought Penn Station was closer to Union Square but I stuck with Grand Central because I knew I knew how to walk down Park Ave. to the W. The third option, according to the sign behind the counter, was World Trade Center. I didn’t ask.

It was all economy seating so I grabbed a seat next to a Japanese man and across the aisle from an Israeli couple. Friday-evening traffic was nonexistent on the New Jersey Turnpike but as soon as we got off it was bumper to bumper all the way to the Lincoln Tunnel tollbooth. The driver kept a safe 3-inch following distance the whole way.

I kept looking at the skyline but there was an obnoxious mesh spray-painted with advertising covering most of the windows on the bus. There were still no towers and I couldn’t even pick out where they used to be. I did see the Chrysler building, though, and the Empire State, somehow standing taller and more alone than ever before in a proud New York-style **** you to the terrorists.

Huge Old Glories hung over each of the three branches of the Lincoln Tunnel and the traffic was light the rest of the way to Grand Central. Sidewalk hustlers worked hard as usual, this week doing a brisk business in American flags as people stopped their cars and jumped out, engines running, to buy one or five. Banners hung up and down the street in front of Macy’s proclaiming “New York & Co., Shopping Capital of the World!” To make that come true this season, I thought, would require a true miracle on 34th St.

An hour and a quarter after the bus left Newark we arrived at Grand Central Station. It was a beautiful evening, in the mid-70s with a few clouds. I clipped my bags together and wheeled downtown towards Union Square, a little over the 20 city blocks that made a mile in the City. I wheeled past the Sheraton Russell with its matched pair of stone Russell terriers out front, and got a glimpse of the Empire State Building up close, now after dusk lit up red, white, and blue.

New York lived on. Women still dressed smartly, some swapping pumps for tennis shoes just for the walk home from work. Drunken derelicts still talked to themselves, or to nobody. A look through the window of the Hotel Giraffe revealed a couple engaged in a long necking session. Men in white shirts and red ties still sat waiting in black cars. A thousand demonstrators, chanting and carrying signs proclaiming their disapproval of war, walked up Park Ave. “Break the cycle of violence,” one sign read. I wondered how many free shots its owner would give the terrorists. No, I thought, it was too late for New York to turn the other tower.

I got to the W and checked in with a nice clerk named Willy. I showed my Plutonium card and asked if we could possibly have a So Very Suite or a Way Suite or even a Toot Suite but it was not possible because the 90 Free Fridays in town. We had already been upgraded to a Spectacular room but he bumped us up one level to a Sommelier room. I went up and found an ordinary hotel room with a peek of a park view. Finally I could see the smoke, brightly illuminated by electric lights, from the still-smoldering disaster site.

Michael and RichG, New Yorkers, came over to have a drink with me while we waited for Hunnybear to arrive. We had a lovely waitress, Harmony, who took care of us in the signature W comfy lounge. The hotel restaurant at the W Union Square was Olive’s, part of the same chain as the one at Bellagio in Las Vegas. I found out you could order the yummy olive tapanade in the lounge while waiting for a table so you get double tapanade. I ordered a Manhattan in honor of New York City and Michael ordered a whisky sour in honor of he liked whisky sours. RichG had a couple doubles.

Hunnybear arrived, as did Michael’s beautiful girlfriend Claudia, and we put our name in for a table at Olive’s. I told Harmony if a bribe was necessary it was no problem but apparently it was not. We got a VIP booth in the back and ordered a nice bottle of Santa Barbara syrah. It was all good, although not up to the Vegas restaurant in any respect I thought. I had a decent paella and Hunnybear had some kind of red fish. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but Hunnybear and I split just one piece of banana chocolate cake.

There were a handful of firemen in the bar blowing off steam. I talked to one, John, who said frankly they all felt more comfortable when they were at the site instead of being forced to take days off. I told him I realized many people had probably been coming up to him but I just had to add my thanks. We embraced.

We went up to the room to surf the Internet a bit and saw the management of the three pyramid-topped buildings west of Union Square had attempted to illuminate them with red, white, and blue lights but they somehow came out mauve, taupe, and aubergine. We tried to hook up the high-speed Internet access and I was shocked to learn it had not yet been installed in this W. The WebTV ran at a turtle’s pace and the dialup line maxed out at 24k baud. It wasn’t what I expected from a brand-new hotel but frankly I had other things on my mind. We bid goodnight to Michael and Claudia and slept as best we could.

Lion pause:
Last time in New York, Hunnybear and I watched The Out-of-Towners. Compared with today’s issues, the crowds, storms, and muggings seem like the stuff of fairy tales. Kevin couldn’t come to New York this time because he and Lara were attending a wedding in Sequim, Wash. (pronounced “squim.”) I admonished them to be careful because there were indications Sequim could be the terrorists’ next target. The skyscraper was the symbol of the industrial age, so much so that Chrysler Motors built the world’s tallest one in the midst of a city less dependent on cars than any other in America. Will anyone want to work in such a high-profile building again?


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I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, subscriptions, and more, see www.liontales.com (http://www.liontales.com)

[This message has been edited by QuietLion (edited 09-22-2001).]


blairvanhorn
Sep 22, 01, 11:26 am
Thanks. I enjoyed this report.

Only sorry to hear you didn't get the "Toot Suite".

AAPlatinum
Sep 22, 01, 1:28 pm
Enjoyable report as always and nice to know that you are not giving into the terrorists.

I believe that the pyramid topped buildings that you are referring to are Zeckendorf Towers.

Enjoy NYC and take a walk in Union Square to see the "WTC memorial".


stimpy
Sep 22, 01, 1:58 pm
Kudos for not giving in to the terrorists and continuing with your travel plans. I have to admit that I would really love to visit NY now to talk to people there and help out where I can. Your report solidifies that feeling.

But business requires that I have to continue my existing travel plans that take me elsewhere. Maybe Christmas in NY?

ka9taw
Sep 22, 01, 3:27 pm
Nice report, QL. Glad to see that the normal three inch following distance rule still applies in the NYC area.

I was supposed to be in NYC tomorrow myself but turns out I wasn't needed at the meeting...nothing to do with whether or not to travel.

Recently stayed at the W San Francisco but didn't have a need to use the in-room Internet. Would have been great to find an Olive's branch (pun not intended http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif ) there, as I was never able to eat at the original while I lived in Boston. Guess I will have to do so in NYC or in Vegas.

Rudi
Sep 22, 01, 4:30 pm
I am glad that you still don't live 100% to (your) rules! Thank you for your report. (living 100% to rules is like being on strike ...).

mauld
Sep 22, 01, 5:44 pm
Nice report Quiet Lion, how were the rooms at the W Union Square? As small as the W uptown or better??? Good to see you and Honeybear made it into the city and are safe and sound.

SCMM
Sep 22, 01, 7:07 pm
QL, I'm delighted you hav'nt let your standards drop, and are supporting the Economy in NY.

The Ba-stards hav'nt got you down.

Raise a Glass to the fallen for us.

Stewart.

bers
Sep 23, 01, 1:24 am
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by QuietLion:
We took off on time and quickly broke through the marine layer. It was a nice sunny day in LA if you weren’t on the earth’s surface.
</font>

ROFL.

I needed resuscitation after that.

As always, a fantastic trip report. Please always keep them coming.

QuietLion
Sep 23, 01, 9:39 am
Visit to the wreckage

We opened the drapes and turned on the TV. Everything looked peaceful so I fired up Monkeyboy and wrote while Hunnybear jumped up and down on my head and gently reminded me not to spend our whole time in New York in our hotel room. With all the talk of airport security confiscating Mach 3 razors I must have subconsciously left mine at home because I discovered I had nothing, not even a backup, in either of my two shaving kits. I got a disposable razor from the front desk in a trendy white box.

Since my 6 p.m. return flight on Sunday had been canceled I called Continental to see what could be done. They stonewalled me on taking another airline or getting a refund. I said I didn’t think that was right but signed up for the 8:10 flight for the time being. First Class was sold out.

We went for a walk and headed downtown. Weather was perfect, sunny and 70. Union Square was full of photos, flowers, people soliciting donations, and crazies talking loudly to no one in particular. We ended up at Canteen in SoHo for brunch. It was a downstairs restaurant with orange retro-sixties chairs shaped like Mick Jagger’s tongue. They brought around fresh banana bread and strawberry butter. I had a bowl of gazpacho and a nice Cobb salad while Hunnybear had an omelet.

We continued south and at Canal St. saw the first signs of the fallout from Sept. 11. Three TV satellite trucks were parked in a lot on the corner. Blue sawhorses marked “police line do not cross” lined the sidewalks but they must have been the remnants of a previous perimeter because they were letting people cross and letting pedestrians, but not cars, continue south on Church St. We crossed and saw state troopers guarding the street entrance. AT&T had set up a tent so people could make wireless phone calls.

A huge yellow flatbed truck carried away just three enormous steel girders with twisted ends. How many more of these must there have been? We smelled fresh paint at we approached White St., where Sixth Ave. converged with Church. A New York State Dept. of Transportation emergency-response unit was parked on the street, then at Franklin St. a New York City Housing Dept. command center. Just past Franklin we began to see a smoky haze, flashing lights, and cranes in the distance. The air smelled faintly of sulfur, like it did after a fireworks display. A narrow path of fresh asphalt close to the curb betrayed some recent utility work. An enormous dump truck made a right turn in front of us, presumably hauling away some of the 80,000 tons of wreckage disposed of so far. A flyer for the Eden Day Spa was stuck up on a phone booth. “Attention New York Police, Fire, Rescue Workers,” it read. “Our facilities are available for you.”

Finally at Duane St. the sidewalks were cordoned off. We turned left and found the fire station of Engine Company No. 7 and Ladder Company No. 1. Spread out in front were dozens of hand-designed white T-shirts, flowers, candy, cookies—all in memorial tribute to the fallen. A plaque on the side of the building listed the names of the firefighters who had given their lives in the line of duty since 1880. There were 12 names. On Sept. 11 some 200 firefighters died trying to save the victims of the World Trade Center attack.

Broadway was open heading downtown so we turned right and continued in silence. A father took a picture of his boy with a policeman. The boy wore the cop’s hat. At Chambers St. we had to cross over to the far side because the sidewalk on the right was closed. Another dump truck passed, this time carrying visible debris. Soldiers in camouflage guarded the entrance to Warren St. Another AT&T tent offered phone service. Evangelists handed out leaflets urging passers-by to “call out His name while you have the chance.”

Con Edison trucks carrying giant spools of electrical cable parked at Park Place. A darkly ironic sign on the 760.5-foot Woolworth Tower, once the world’s tallest building but now undergoing renovation, proclaimed “State of the art in 1913, state of the future in 2000.” I surely hoped it wouldn’t be the tallest building in town again anytime soon. Another wild-eyed evangelist shouting at us to believe! believe! believe! carried a sign with a web site you could check for further information about God.

Just on the other side of the Woolworth tower we saw the first damaged building a block down. We kept walking and found a large crowd of people just standing and watching. There wasn’t much to see besides a crane but people were taking pictures and reporters from all over the world were interviewing and filming. We detoured east on Ann St. Three more soldiers in camo rode a John Deere Gator down the middle of the street. We turned south again. Soldiers guarded each of the next several streets, letting people out but not in. Finally at Maiden Lane we were permitted to turn right. There we could see the twisted base of the supporting wall of one of the towers, all that was left.

We stood and stared at the devastation for about five minutes. Then a well-decorated police captain asked us all to walk the other way. They wanted to close the sidewalks here. We followed the perimeter once again to the south. Windows were caked with gray dust. We hurried past a pile of stranded garbage and turned right once again at the next block. We found ourselves in Liberty Plaza, right underneath One Liberty Plaza, the building it was feared would topple but it was still standing. From there, though, we had a full-on view of the devastation. We saw all the remnants of the towers, the cranes, a pile of rubble and twisted beams seven stories high. Surrounding buildings had windows blown out. One had a corner torn off. We stared in silence.

I saw a plastic American flag on the ground, inadvertently being trampled by a woman taking photos. I retrieved it and dusted if off. We simultaneously decided we had seen enough and turned away.

A block away workers were pressure-washing buildings, cleaning the dirt and ash away. Banners hung from the streetlights: “NYC & Company: Financial Capital of the World.” Four firefighters rode a John Deere Gator back toward the devastation.

We instinctively headed for the water. We walked through the South St. Seaport and then sat on a bench. After seeing one of the most horrific sights of our lives—and it was much, much more horrible in person than on TV—we sat and looked at something beautiful for the better part of an hour: the Brooklyn Bridge. When we were ready we walked up Mulberry St. and then hailed a cab to take us the last mile to Union Square.

The wedding in Brooklyn that was postponed last time we were in town happened tonight. We met Michael and shared a cab to Flatbush. We wished Howard and Diane mazel tov and then walked to Atlantic and hailed a cab back to Manhattan.

We had dinner reservations at Asia de Cuba, kindly made for us by the manager of Red Square in Las Vegas, so we had the cab drop us there and Claudia met us. Asia de Cuba was a stealth restaurant and would be easy to miss, marked only by a faintly lettered frosted-glass panel on the front door. We sat down and quickly had a round of mojitos. Claudia had a caipirinha, a mojito without the mint. We started with tuna tartare, which came in a pagoda-like tower, crispy calamari salad, and a superb seared foie gras served on French toast. It was family style so we all sampled it all. We then ordered a couple entrees, the wok-seared whole fish and the wonderful miso-glazed Atlantic salmon. As a rule I don’t eat dessert but Michael ordered just one Coconut Invasion so I had a few bites. The manager came by and introduced himself and we gave him full marks for the excellent meal. He invited us to try their other location in the Hotel Mondrian on Sunset in Los Angeles.

The weather couldn’t have been more perfect as we walked back downtown to the W Union Square. We were both still shaken from our visit to the attack site. We flipped on the news to make sure there was no new danger and then went to bed.

Lion pause:
Rooms at the W Union Square are much nicer than the ones at the original W. More to the point, it’s the first W in New York that has a bathroom worthy of a four-star hotel. A McDonald’s at 28th and Park advertised “ATM inside! Only 99¢!” It was the first time I had seen a fee for an ATM plugged as a benefit. It’s much more quiet than usual in New York. People aren’t talking much, or if they are there’s only one topic of conversation.


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I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, subscriptions, and more, see www.liontales.com (http://www.liontales.com)

FoothillFlyer
Sep 23, 01, 2:45 pm
QL,

I am both a police officer (22 years) and an AA employee (15 years). To say I was traumatized on 9/11 would be a gross understatement. The world will never be the same. As a long-time fan of your travelogs, I cannot tell you what a catharsis your trip to New York report is, since your narration is in your usual entertaining style while giving the gravity of what you witnessed the appropriate perspective.

As a rule, I avoid gratuitous sentimentality, but your trip to New York in the face of what happened has reassured me life must go on.

Thanks.

Punki
Sep 23, 01, 3:20 pm
Thanks, QuietLion, for the report. Excellent as always.

Our whole family is going to NYC later this week. We are staying at the Essex House using the great $199 rate, including carriage ride in Central Park, which doc posted, for Hunki and I, and a free Friday and Saturday for the kids. We hope to be able to get tickets to The Lion King, which we previously have not been able to see.

Support New York! Go and spend money!

doc
Sep 23, 01, 6:23 pm
Thanks QL, as always for the fine report!

Of course, I'm sad to have missed you. LarryU was also in town. And as it turned out, in a strange twist, our trip to BOS was called off at the very last minute!

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by Punki:

Thanks, QuietLion, for the report. Excellent as always.

Our whole family is going to NYC later this week. We are staying at the Essex House using the great $199 rate, including carriage ride in Central Park, which doc posted, for Hunki and I, and a free Friday and Saturday for the kids. We hope to be able to get tickets to The Lion King, which we previously have not been able to see.

Support New York! Go and spend money!</font>

---

Just as Mayor Guillani has been saying! http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif

Is that "Hattuta muttata?" No worries! http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/wink.gif

While truly it is a changed place/world, I trust your upcoming trip will be "great", as always! http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif

LarryU
Sep 23, 01, 9:52 pm
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by doc:
Thanks QL, as always for the fine report!

Of course, I'm sad to have missed you. LarryU was also in town. And as it turned out, in a strange twist, our trip to BOS was called off at the very last minute!

</font>

Well, we had a great time anyway. I hope that security guard learned his lesson. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/wink.gif

shadow
Sep 24, 01, 9:13 am
Great reports QL...two Wow Cows to both you & Hunnybear. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif

QuietLion
Sep 24, 01, 5:00 pm
Ground Zero

A loud electronic alarm startled us awake around nine. I jumped out of bed and threw open the drapes to reassure myself New York was still there. The sun shone over a peaceful Union Square. A voice quickly came over the public-address system: “Please disregard the fire alarm.” I breathed.

We got up and went walking, this time away from Ground Zero. We headed up Broadway, vaguely in the direction of Stage Deli. A photographer was setting up an art shoot with a pile of garbage and an old tire with “Teach Tolerance” written on the hub. We passed the monument to Maj. Gen. William J. Worth ( http://www.peanut.org/text/mgworth.htm ), a hero of two centuries past. A T-shirt street vendor was negotiating with his supplier for 50 dozen American-flag shirts. We walked through the costume-jewelry district. A man walked by carrying a single box of batteries. “Two battery—one dollar,” he said. It was another day of stunning Indian-summer weather.

As we approached Times Square we heard someone playing “Give my regards to Broadway” on the saxophone. Three police officers were stationed at the entrance to the Times Square subway station. There were plenty of people in line at the TKTS booth in Duffy Square, now the only remaining location. All the employees who worked at the 2 World Trade Center location got out safely. At the Wintergarden Theater workers prepared for the opening of Mama Mia. We passed by the Sheraton Manhattan, now temporary home of Lehman Bros., before arriving at Stage Deli for our traditional enormous lunch.

The place was deserted. Not only was there no line at noon on a Sunday but the normally frenetic staff were standing around not knowing what to do with themselves. We got a table and Hunnybear had an omelet while I ordered the Rudy Giuliani. Our waiter, with plenty of unaccustomed time to chat, asked where we were from. LA, I said. “Oh, that’s where they came from. Where the planes came from.” No, I explained. The planes came from here but were headed for LA before they were hijacked. “Oh, I was wondering why they had so much fuel left.”

The Rudy Giuliani arrived, a Reubenesque sub with some Muenster cheese thrown on for good measure. It was good. I asked our waiter where he was from. “Istanbul,” he said. “Do you know where that is?” I said it was in Turkey. Hunnybear said it used to be Constantinople. I added Turkey was also home to the ancient city of Troy. We were his new best friends. “90% of people don’t know where Istanbul is.” He brought Hunnybear an extra mug of hot water as a reward.

After lunch we walked by way of Central Park to Saks Fifth Avenue where we shopped for shoes for my maximum shopping time of an hour and 15 minutes. A street musician wailed out the sad strains of “Danny Boy” on the coronet. We walked to Park Ave. and hailed a cab back to the W Union Square. Hunnybear grabbed a cab to LaGuardia while I surfed for another hour, my Continental flight now scheduled for 8:10 with upgrade in serious doubt. I went down at four and checked out with a very nice clerk who happily removed a couple bogus phone charges from my bill.

It was such a nice day I decided to walk to Penn Station and catch the bus from there to Newark. I arrived just as the bus was boarding and gave the driver $11 cash. When he didn’t offer a receipt I resisted the temptation to ask him to split it with me if he was going to keep it. Instead I found a nice seat with no seat opponent behind a cute girl. As we approached the Lincoln Tunnel traffic was abysmal so our driver took the secret way through Port Authority. It took only a half-hour to get to the airport and another 10 minutes to get to Terminal C.

The airport was deserted. I decided to try the E-ticket kiosk. I inserted my credit card and it correctly identified my flight. It asked me if I wanted to upgrade and I said yes but it was not possible. It did let me change my seat to the bulkhead aisle. When I was done it made some meowing noises and spit out a flimsy boarding pass. I stuffed it in a ticket envelope and stuck it in my vest pocket.

I got the full wand treatment at security this time, including a pleasant pat-down from the guard. I asked for seconds but it was not possible. I made my way to the Presidents Club and waited several minutes for the elevator before determining it was not in service. I lugged my luggage up two flights, presented my boarding pass and Centurion card and camped out at a carrel for a couple hours. They had free local phone calls and free drinks so I surfed and had a glass of cheap red jug wine.

When it was near time to board I checked my upgrade chances with the agent in the Presidents Club. It didn’t look good. “People are flying again!” she said. “No they’re not!” I said. “They’re canceling flights and putting all the passengers from the whole day on one 737!” I said. “Oh,” she said.

I went to the gate and began to consider plan B. I called National Airlines and asked if they had room on the 9:30 to Vegas and they did, with plenty of upgrades available. I made a reservation and said I’d call back. I asked the Continental gate agent to let me know when the upgrades were definitely not possible. She said it had already checked in full so I asked her to de-board me and she said she did. I called National as I walked back to the front of the terminal and used points to buy the ticket over the phone.

I figured I ought to get an e-ticket receipt and I had plenty of time so I went to the First Class queue at Continental. I explained the situation to the agent and she looked at her screen and said I was still checked in for the flight. It took her and a supervisor 15 minutes to fix it and print out a receipt. I explained to the supervisor I intended to ask for a refund under rule 260 and he gave me the customer-service number.

I took the very nice monorail to Terminal A and found the National counter tucked away in the far corner of this nearly deserted building. There was some glitch with my reservation and it took almost a half-hour for them to get the boarding pass printed. Finally Kevin, the supervisor, pressed every possible combination of buttons and got it to work. I avowed I had no sharp objects such as nail files and I was on my way.

There was no National Club in Newark but there was a Red Carpet Club. I trekked over to the United gates and asked about it but it closed in five minutes so I didn’t have a chance to argue my way in. I returned to the National gates and once again got the full wand search. They also inspected my Briggs & Riley for the first time ever. Usually it was the Brenthaven laptop case that got the third degree.

I realized I’d used the last of my small bills to buy the bus ticket so I bought a bottle of Diet Coke from the stand near the gate to get change. The cashier wished me good luck. I didn’t know if that meant she knew I was going to Vegas or she just thought I needed luck to survive the flight. I watched Larry King on the airport CNN network until the flight boarded, 45 minutes late. Kevin, the supervisor from the ticket counter, showed up to take tickets.

I settled into seat 1D and ordered a drink. It was me, one other customer, three pilots and two flight attendants in First Class. The drink came in a real glass with a generous helping of mixed nuts. Kevin came on board to hand the paperwork to the pilot. I expected him to fly the plane but he took his leave before the door closed.

This late flight had a light snack, a choice of salmon wrap or chateaubriand salad. I had the steak, which arrived rare and delicious. There was no video on this aircraft, one of National’s few weak spots. I hoped if their new financing came through they could install video on all the planes. We landed in Vegas at 12:30 a.m., 35 minutes late. Drivers were no longer allowed to meet passengers in baggage claim so the usual army of black-suited chauffeurs with hand-lettered signs was nowhere to be seen. I escorted myself to Vegas’s Ground Zero and found my driver waiting. I just wanted to close my eyes and sleep.

Lion Pause:
The minibar at the W Union Square includes a package of Fun Gum Sugar Lips. There is more than one New York politician who will have a very bright future as a result of rising to this occasion. People have all different ways of reacting to real threats on their safety. Some are quiet, some angry. Some snap at friends. Some cry. We lost two skyscrapers, four jetliners, and thousands of unsuspecting people busy living their lives. But our biggest loss was the loss of our security—or our illusion of it.


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I hope you enjoy my Lion Tales. For photos, past travelogues, subscriptions, and more, see www.liontales.com (http://www.liontales.com)

stimpy
Sep 24, 01, 7:56 pm
Illusion of security indeed! However at least some of us can still manage to travel without crying out in fear.

For some reason, I never expected changes in Vegas. In the back of my mind, I think that the regular gamblers would keep playing if there was a nuclear war outside. They certainly did so during the big Landers earthquake. It must be quite wierd to see the McCarron look so different. Please let us know if the casinos are cutting back in any way or if life is the same inside their hallowed halls.


[This message has been edited by stimpy (edited 09-24-2001).]

crankyusi
Sep 24, 01, 10:57 pm
Thanks for sharing those experiences with us Quiet Lion. The content and your style is great stuff. Very moving.

Hunnybear
Sep 25, 01, 8:44 am
"I got the full wand treatment at security this time, including a pleasant pat-down from the guard. I asked for seconds but it was not possible."

LOL! So that's why your pockets are always loaded with metallic paraphenalia? http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/smile.gif

iluv2fly
Sep 25, 01, 9:49 am
I'm having flashbacks to a scene in one of the greatest movies of all time, "This is Spinal Tap"...

Ling
Sep 25, 01, 4:12 pm
Simply wonderful...Thank you, QLion.
Hopefully I'll make it out to NYC before the end of the year.

Linda

BizJet
Sep 28, 01, 2:41 pm
There's nothing to cheer one up quite like a LionTale. Thank you, QuietLion, and I look forward to hearing about your future sojourns.

dhammer53
Sep 30, 01, 6:02 pm
QuietLion,

On behalf of all of us here in NY and the NY metro area...THANK YOU.
While the city still has an unusual feel to it, things are starting to pick up a bit.
Last night we went to dinner in the Flatiron District. Usually the area around my office near the Toy Building is hustling and bustling with tourists and vehicle traffic. It's not. It still sort of feels like a Sunday morning at 7:00am, rather than Saturday night at 8:00pm.
The restaurant we went to, GIORGIO'S of GRAMERCY (check out the review at Zagat.com or Vindigo.com) said they started the evening quietly, then picked up at the night went along. Our waiter said some of the staff has been laid off.

Now is a great time to come to New York City. As things return to 'normal', you can really enjoy what we have to offer here, without the long lines of Broadway, and long waits for hard to get restaurant reservations. My guess is that you'll be able to get into a 'HOT' restaurant now.

And think of the local flyertalkers you could cheer up.

Dan



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