Central America - Nicaragua - solo travel in November?

Hi -

For those who know Nicaragua, would it be a good place to go alone on the day after US Thanksgiving for about a week?

I was planning a trip to Belfast for that week, but the fares for some reason are exorbitant, even though it should be low season - I don't really feel like paying $800 r/t when I can get the same flights for $600 or less at another time during the winter.

I've long been interested in seeing Granada and León, so I figured this might be a good time for it. I'm not really interested in hiking up volcanoes or going to the beach, although I'd probably check out Isla de Ometepe and do a short hike/bike ride or two, then hang out with a book at night.

In the colonial cities, would there be enough to do and other travelers/interesting locals to chat with for a few days? I'm mostly interested in relaxing, absorbing the history and culture of the cities, and just immersing myself in an environment that's very different from NYC.

Thanks for any thoughts! I'm thinking I'll wait until around Labor Day to see if the airlines announce sale fares to Europe. If so, then I'll try to get a decent price to Belfast, and if not then I may just book Nica.

I think that would be a great time of year to visit Nicaragua. You'll run into a lot of fellow travelers, especially in Granada.

Depending on how you're defining "about a week" -- does that include your flight days, which would eat up the bulk of a day each coming and going? -- I might limit myself to Granada and Ometepe, both south of Managua. Including Leon in there means heading back to Managua, getting across the city, and heading north. Of the two colonial cities, Granada is better preserved, and most visitors prefer it over Leon.

Limiting yourself to the south means you could take in Granada and Ometepe leisurely. You'd also have time to spend a day in Masaya to visit its market and to take in the Masaya Volcano just outside of town. You get to the top by vehicle, not hiking, and you can peer into the bubbling, smoking crater. I also like the Mombacho Volcano, just outside of Granada. It's dormant and the summit is covered by cloudforest. You get to the top by vehicle as well. There are tour operators in Granada that can arrange excursions to all these places.

Spent a week or so Nica over Thanksgiving about 10 years ago. Several days on the island and several days in Granada. Visited León, but like many others have posted in this forum, was rather underwhelmed. I did spend a few days at the beach though, something I don't normally do, and enjoyed that.

Managua is pretty much a pit, so spending time south of there would probalby be more enjoyable. One other note, English is not widely spoken, so at least a little Spanish goes a long way.

EmailKid

Thanks to both of you for your thoughts. I'm curious - both of you suggest skipping León, but to me that would be one of the highlights of the trip. Why do you suggest that it's not as nice a place as Granada? I've heard that Granada is pretty scrubbed up for the tourists, while León is much less so - to me, a grand, historic, colonial city that hasn't been converted to Gringolandia sounds like a place worth checking out, no? Or am I missing something?

Also, fwiw, I speak fluent Spanish and have lots of experience traveling throughout Latin America, including very untouristed parts (rural Paraguay, anyone?)

It's history. It's politics. It's economics.

Granada is historically Nicaragua's business-oriented city. The country's wealth was always concentrated there. When Nicaraguan tourism started its boomlet in the late 1990s, the money was there to fix up and restore the old colonial churches and palaces and convents and houses.

The north, on the other hand, is a historically poorer part of the country. Leon is home to Nicaragua's largest university and has always been a Sandinista stronghold. (Somoza actually bombed Leon during the waning days of his dictatorship before he was overthrown in 1979.) Leon is making a credible effort to restore its architectural treasures, but the money just has never been there the way it is with Granada.

Of course, these days, business and industry concentrates in Managua. It's interesting that most of Managua's business and real estate development is on the south side of the city, marching ever outward toward Masaya and Granada, not north toward Leon.

The end result is two cities at different points in their paths to tourism. Granada sees a lot more visitors, and it has a great selection of lodgings and restaurants and things to do. Leon, less so, although it is making a valiant effort to catch up.

If it's a question of time and I could choose only one of the two, I'd choose Granada.

It's history. It's politics. It's economics.

Granada is historically Nicaragua's business-oriented city. The country's wealth was always concentrated there. When Nicaraguan tourism started its boomlet in the late 1990s, the money was there to fix up and restore the old colonial churches and palaces and convents and houses.

The north, on the other hand, is a historically poorer part of the country. Leon is home to Nicaragua's largest university and has always been a Sandinista stronghold. (Somoza actually bombed Leon during the waning days of his dictatorship before he was overthrown in 1979.) Leon is making a credible effort to restore its architectural treasures, but the money just has never been there the way it is with Granada.

Of course, these days, business and industry concentrates in Managua. It's interesting that most of Managua's business and real estate development is on the south side of the city, marching ever outward toward Masaya and Granada, not north toward Leon.

The end result is two cities at different points in their paths to tourism. Granada sees a lot more visitors, and it has a great selection of lodgings and restaurants and things to do. Leon, less so, although it is making a valiant effort to catch up.

If it's a question of time and I could choose only one of the two, I'd choose Granada.

Thanks for elaborating. I actually think León sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. I definitely want to check it out - the politics and the history are an intriguing combination for me, and I like the thought that it's not quite as touristy. I enjoy places that are a bit off the beaten path. ^

At any rate, if I do make the trip I'll have about 9 days to fill, so I think I can hit Granada, León, Ometepe, and Masaya in that time frame.

That sounds like a good plan for nine days.

For me, another reason I prefer Granada: Northern Nicaragua is hotter and drier, especially this year when it's turning into a drier-than-normal rainy season in Central America. Nicaragua is a very warm country no matter what, but I always feel like I swelter a little bit more in Leon than Granada.

BTW, rural Paraguay ... Paraguay in general ... I love that country. ^

Nicaragua is a very warm country no matter what, but I always feel like I swelter a little bit more in Leon than Granada.

Nica isn't warm, it's HOT. But agree, found Granada quite a bit cooler than Leon.

EmailKid

From your description of your travel preferences I believe that Leon will indeed be the better choice for you.

And if you have interest in the country’s relatively recent history, read Blood of Brothers: Life and War in Nicaragua by Steven Kinzer before you go. He was the NYT bureau chief in Nicaragua through the 80s but was also there before the revolution; he knows the country well. It’s a good account of the period and, if you visit any cemeteries (which are fascinating) while you are there the war will seem very recent.

If you do read it, you may find it worthwhile to spend a half day in Managua visiting some of the locations discussed in the book.

And yes, it will be hot – but more than worth it.

Hi -

For those who know Nicaragua, would it be a good place to go alone on the day after US Thanksgiving for about a week?

I was planning a trip to Belfast for that week, but the fares for some reason are exorbitant, even though it should be low season - I don't really feel like paying $800 r/t when I can get the same flights for $600 or less at another time during the winter.

I've long been interested in seeing Granada and León, so I figured this might be a good time for it. I'm not really interested in hiking up volcanoes or going to the beach, although I'd probably check out Isla de Ometepe and do a short hike/bike ride or two, then hang out with a book at night.

In the colonial cities, would there be enough to do and other travelers/interesting locals to chat with for a few days? I'm mostly interested in relaxing, absorbing the history and culture of the cities, and just immersing myself in an environment that's very different from NYC.

Thanks for any thoughts! I'm thinking I'll wait until around Labor Day to see if the airlines announce sale fares to Europe. If so, then I'll try to get a decent price to Belfast, and if not then I may just book Nica.


Granada is touristed up for the package bus crowd. Leon is certainly more typical and the cathedral is worth a trip (so is the one in Subtiaba as long as you're in Leon). As are the Leon beaches - Poneloya e.g.

Leon, Chinandega are very hot all the time, at some times of year unimaginably so like Semana Santa but the best procession in the country is the one on Good Friday in Leon.

Managua is a good place to stay - a lot depends on hour you plan to travel and how your Spanish is - English is limited in most if not all places other than the airport (and then only the airlines). Even the Intercontinental in Managua which is pretty top shelf you are lucky to find English and then not good English.

Outside the capital English will be ex-pats , tourists and people from RAAS/Bluefields.

I have been back and forth to Nicaragua every 5-6 weeks since 2004 though I have slowed down my travels, last was this April.

If you want specific advice PM me.

If you want some ideas, here is a photo gallery of just Nicaragua from my website, including Managua, Leon, Markets, and even a brothel inside the Mercado Oriental (dangerous market - the brothel more so - taking photos there even more so) :

http://ericdavitt.squarespace.com/photos/

Rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd glom onto this one.

My wife and I are thinking of spending 4 days in Nica in February.

We would get into MGA late in the day, and dinner and sleep are our only plans for that city.

The next morning we intend to head to Grenada for the day and night, perhaps swinging by the volcano on the way down.

Then on to San Juan del Sur for some sun and beach time.

Yes, we are rushing it a bit, but we only have the time we have. :(

We have juice at Startwood and IC...seeking lodging recommendations along the way...although the beach town looks like it is mostly small hotels, so any recommendations there are especially appreciated!

We would get into MGA late in the day, and dinner and sleep are our only plans for that city.

That sounds like a plan, and I don't think that's rushing it at all.

When I visited quite a few years ago there was a very reasonably priced, though somewhat dated, Best Western right across the street from MGA. Stayed there on the way back, and all I had to do is walk across the street :)

There are some restaurants further down the road, but IIRC the light was rather dim and the whole place just didn't look great at night. Stayed at some flavor of Holiday Inn a little closer to town, and that was also very reasonable back then, and brand new.

Grenada is great, and I spent a few days there. The boats that give the tour of the lake are also quite inexpensive, and one of the uninhabited islets has small monkeys living on it.

EmailKid