Luxury Hotels - 2 weeks in India

I posted a similar thread a while back but had a shorter period of time and decided not to go. I now have two weeks to play with. Where would you go for a luxurious introduction to the country? Is it worth trying to add a beach spot to the traditional Northern Indian sights? Are there even any beach resorts that we rate?

luxurious introduction to the country
very easy introduction to the country in relative comfort...do not want to be travelling for hours...less interested in the big cities
>
close(r) to airport >
15 min taj umaid bhawan
45 min oberoi udaivilas

For a luxurious introduction to India, nothing beats Udaipur. There are many amazing resorts in Udaipur. Even a Bond film was shot there! As far as a beach destination is concerned, I would go for Goa simply beacause of its amazing beaches and resorts.

For a luxurious introduction to India, nothing beats Udaipur. There are many amazing resorts in Udaipur. Even a Bond film was shot there! As far as a beach destination is concerned, I would go for Goa simply beacause of its amazing beaches and resorts.

How does the PH Goa rate on this board as a beach resort? Room product seems to be on the lower side of the PH brand but i haven't found any reliable alternative located in Goa and i'll be spending two nights there for the full moon party end of october...

Having re-discovered Groombridge's amazing review below I am now thinking Aman New Delhi 2 nights, Oberoi Agra 1/2 nights, Amanbagh 5 nights, Oberoi Amarvilas 3 nights. Sounds as though trying to fit in a beach stop might be too much? Maybe a final stop at Umaid Bhawan?

4-5 nights at Amanbagh after the bustle of Delhi and the utter squalor of Agra sounds like a perfect core of your trip, utterly relaxing after your initial short, two stops in Delhi and Agra.

Udaipur is much more relaxing than other Indian cities, so that will be a nice follow-up. The drive from Amanbagh to Jaipur is ok -- and the flight from Jaipur to Udaipur via Kingfisher or Jet was short and fine.

It would of course be great to end somewhere as spectacular as Umaid Bhawan, assuming there is a convenient flight between Udaipur and Jodhpur available on your schedule. The drive from Udaipur to Jodhpur, which we did, was grueling and probably wouldn't be an ideal way to end your trip.

Just a caution that the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra may feel large and impersonal compared to all of the other hotels on your trip. And because guests rarely stay more than 1 night, it just hasn't developed (or had to develop) the warm, service culture of many truly great hotels. All that said, it feels like a miracle in relation to every other option in that city, and dusk on your balcony makes for an iconic travel memory.

I don't think I mentioned this in my review, but I would rely SOLELY on the resorts to arrange your car transfers for you and the train from Delhi to Agra. Don't rely on a travel agency within India -- we did for parts of our trip, and the quality of vehicle, driver, and amenities was SIGNIFICANTLY lower than what Oberoi, Aman, and Taj provide.

I would book all the hotels through a Virtuoso agent, who got me significant lower rates than what I found online, and lower rates than what the travel agency could provide, and we received upgrades at every one of the hotels.

But do decline offers of arranging transfers and a package through Virtuoso's recommended Indian agencies -- the hotels do a better job of this themselves.

At the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur, I'd book one of the rooms with the access to the moat-like "semi-private" pool that runs along the perimeter. But it really is not private, so keep your fingers crossed for an upgrade to one of the 1-bedroom suites with full-size pool (really wonderful accommodation), which are the next category up from the rooms with the semi-private pool access.

Time of year you go will be a very important factor on where to go.

I can refer you to a great Virtuoso advisor who can assistant with arranging the itinerary and procuring amenities and VIP service at all of these hotels for you. At Amanbagh you'd receive daily full breakfast either in the restaurant or room service, accommodation upgrade and complimentary lunch. Connecting with contacts on the ground in India she'd be able to help with logistical guidance and transportation arrangements if you decide to pre-arrange. They have great contacts so you are never left stranded. PM me if you need assistance or want a referral!

Thanks all. Any Indian beach resorts people can recommend?

I can only echo what people have noted above.

Just to give you a flavour of what you could do in two weeks, here is a quick summary of our similar trip...

We flew into Delhi and had Aman pick us up for 3 nights at Amanbagh (4 hours drive) - we would gladly have spent longer there, as it is such a magical place (although the managers have changed since our visit) with a ton of fabulous local excursions as well as a great property where it is fine to just stay and relax for a day. The food is wonderful as well (although it was the only place where I had a stomach upset in the whole trip).

They then drove us to Agra (4 1/2 hours drive) for 1 night at the very bland Oberoi. It is nevertheless the best place to stay in town, and allows you to get up early and beat the crowds for sunrise at the Taj Mahal (beware it used to be closed every Monday, I believe the closure is now a different day but don't let that be the day you try to visit!).

The Oberoi then drove us to Ranthambore (via Fatupur Sikri which is unmissable), which given recent events, is probably no longer an option. If you can still do the tiger safaris then we recommend staying for a couple of nights.

We took the overnight train to Udaipur (which even in first class is really quite an experience) for a few nights at the Lake Palace. It isn't as high of a standard as the Oberoi, but it also isn't often you get to stay in the middle of a lake in such a historical property. Check before you travel as to whether the lake is dry or not, as I wouldn't stay at the Taj if it is.

From Udaipur you can fly to Jodphur but we stopped off at Jaisalmer along the way - there are no real luxury properties here, but it is a wonderful desert fort which is worth the excursion (there are some quasi-luxury camps nearby in the desert if I recall correctly).

Finally, we finished in Delhi for a couple of nights. We stayed at the Imperial which was fine, but now that the Aman is there, that would be the best choice.

I really would not combine this with a beach trip - save that for another time. There is SO much to see just in the areas mentioned above, and I don't think in any event that there are any true luxury beach hotels in India, but I am ready to stand corrected.

I agree with what has been said about cars and drivers, the hotels know best and are reasonable value as well. I would, however, add that if you can take a train journey then it is worth doing as it does take you out of the air conditioned environment of the car and despite there being hassle and stress around every corner, it is wonderful fun!

Hope this helps.

Having re-discovered Groombridge's amazing review below I am now thinking Aman New Delhi 2 nights, Oberoi Agra 1/2 nights, Amanbagh 5 nights, Oberoi Amarvilas 3 nights. Sounds as though trying to fit in a beach stop might be too much? Maybe a final stop at Umaid Bhawan?

Good itinerary, but Oberoi Agra IS Oberoi Amarvilas & 3 nights is a bit too long - 2 would be better. Umaid Bhawan is a must, & maybe Oberoi Udaivilas (Udaipur) which is probably what you meant to say?

Thanks all. Any Indian beach resorts people can recommend?

Sadly, no.

Good itinerary, but Oberoi Agra IS Oberoi Amarvilas & 3 nights is a bit too long - 2 would be better. Umaid Bhawan is a must, & maybe Oberoi Udaivilas (Udaipur) which is probably what you meant to say?

Yes, sorry I meant Oberoi Udaivilas.

I can only echo what people have noted above.

Just to give you a flavour of what you could do in two weeks, here is a quick summary of our similar trip...

We flew into Delhi and had Aman pick us up for 3 nights at Amanbagh (4 hours drive) - we would gladly have spent longer there, as it is such a magical place (although the managers have changed since our visit) with a ton of fabulous local excursions as well as a great property where it is fine to just stay and relax for a day. The food is wonderful as well (although it was the only place where I had a stomach upset in the whole trip).

They then drove us to Agra (4 1/2 hours drive) for 1 night at the very bland Oberoi. It is nevertheless the best place to stay in town, and allows you to get up early and beat the crowds for sunrise at the Taj Mahal (beware it used to be closed every Monday, I believe the closure is now a different day but don't let that be the day you try to visit!).

The Oberoi then drove us to Ranthambore (via Fatupur Sikri which is unmissable), which given recent events, is probably no longer an option. If you can still do the tiger safaris then we recommend staying for a couple of nights.

We took the overnight train to Udaipur (which even in first class is really quite an experience) for a few nights at the Lake Palace. It isn't as high of a standard as the Oberoi, but it also isn't often you get to stay in the middle of a lake in such a historical property. Check before you travel as to whether the lake is dry or not, as I wouldn't stay at the Taj if it is.

From Udaipur you can fly to Jodphur but we stopped off at Jaisalmer along the way - there are no real luxury properties here, but it is a wonderful desert fort which is worth the excursion (there are some quasi-luxury camps nearby in the desert if I recall correctly).

Finally, we finished in Delhi for a couple of nights. We stayed at the Imperial which was fine, but now that the Aman is there, that would be the best choice.

I really would not combine this with a beach trip - save that for another time. There is SO much to see just in the areas mentioned above, and I don't think in any event that there are any true luxury beach hotels in India, but I am ready to stand corrected.

I agree with what has been said about cars and drivers, the hotels know best and are reasonable value as well. I would, however, add that if you can take a train journey then it is worth doing as it does take you out of the air conditioned environment of the car and despite there being hassle and stress around every corner, it is wonderful fun!

Hope this helps.

Very helpful, many thanks.

4-5 nights at Amanbagh after the bustle of Delhi and the utter squalor of Agra sounds like a perfect core of your trip, utterly relaxing after your initial short, two stops in Delhi and Agra.

Udaipur is much more relaxing than other Indian cities, so that will be a nice follow-up. The drive from Amanbagh to Jaipur is ok -- and the flight from Jaipur to Udaipur via Kingfisher or Jet was short and fine.

It would of course be great to end somewhere as spectacular as Umaid Bhawan, assuming there is a convenient flight between Udaipur and Jodhpur available on your schedule. The drive from Udaipur to Jodhpur, which we did, was grueling and probably wouldn't be an ideal way to end your trip.

Just a caution that the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra may feel large and impersonal compared to all of the other hotels on your trip. And because guests rarely stay more than 1 night, it just hasn't developed (or had to develop) the warm, service culture of many truly great hotels. All that said, it feels like a miracle in relation to every other option in that city, and dusk on your balcony makes for an iconic travel memory.

I don't think I mentioned this in my review, but I would rely SOLELY on the resorts to arrange your car transfers for you and the train from Delhi to Agra. Don't rely on a travel agency within India -- we did for parts of our trip, and the quality of vehicle, driver, and amenities was SIGNIFICANTLY lower than what Oberoi, Aman, and Taj provide.

I would book all the hotels through a Virtuoso agent, who got me significant lower rates than what I found online, and lower rates than what the travel agency could provide, and we received upgrades at every one of the hotels.

But do decline offers of arranging transfers and a package through Virtuoso's recommended Indian agencies -- the hotels do a better job of this themselves.

At the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur, I'd book one of the rooms with the access to the moat-like "semi-private" pool that runs along the perimeter. But it really is not private, so keep your fingers crossed for an upgrade to one of the 1-bedroom suites with full-size pool (really wonderful accommodation), which are the next category up from the rooms with the semi-private pool access.
Fantastic information as always.

I recognize that the Grand Hyatt Goa is not on a par with the hotels being considered - but should a beach stay be desired, two friends have spoken very highly of the recently opened Grand Hyatt Goa. Both have tried the Park Hyatt Goa, and prefer the Grand Hyatt property.

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/hyatt-gold-passport/1272284-grand-hyatt-goa-india-review-master-thread.html

Flights booked for February. In to Delhi, out of Mumbai. Am not loving the location of the FS in the latter. Any decent leisure recommendations?

Flights booked for February. In to Delhi, out of Mumbai. Am not loving the location of the FS in the latter. Any decent leisure recommendations?

Whatever you do, do NOT stay at FS Mumbai -it is one of their worst hotels anywhere and looks like a corporate boardroom, even when you take a suite. Stay instead at The Taj Palace (heritage wing) which is THE perfect leisure hotel, with some superb restaurants and a great garden and outdoor pool. Easily the best in Mumbai.

Whatever you do, do NOT stay at FS Mumbai -it is one of their worst hotels anywhere and looks like a corporate boardroom, even when you take a suite. Stay instead at The Taj Palace (heritage wing) which is THE perfect leisure hotel, with some superb restaurants and a great garden and outdoor pool. Easily the best in Mumbai.

Thanks, looks perfect. Getting from Amanbagh to Udaipur is proving problematic, as there do not seem to be direct flights from Jaipur to Udaipur any more. Not keen to do this by road.

Getting from Amanbagh to Udaipur is proving problematic, as there do not seem to be direct flights from Jaipur to Udaipur any more. Not keen to do this by road.

You're right -- I just looked at both the Kingfisher and Jet schedules online and all of those short flights between Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Udaipur are no longer part of their schedule. That's really unfortunate. The hotels may know whether those flights get re-instated during the Nov-Feb peak tourism season -- but it really does not look as if they will be from the schedule.

I would definitely fly back through Delhi rather than doing what looks to be an incredibly long drive from Amanbagh to Udaipur.

You're right -- I just looked at both the Kingfisher and Jet schedules online and all of those short flights between Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Udaipur are no longer part of their schedule. That's really unfortunate. The hotels may know whether those flights get re-instated during the Nov-Feb peak tourism season -- but it really does not look as if they will be from the schedule.

I would definitely fly back through Delhi rather than doing what looks to be an incredibly long drive from Amanbagh to Udaipur.

I'm actually considering missing out Udaipur on this trip if the flights don't work and adding the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur instead. So: Aman Delhi, Oberoi Amarvilas, Amanbagh, Rambagh Palace and Taj Palace Mumbai.

The same issue also applies to Jodhpur unfortunately.

I'm actually considering missing out Udaipur on this trip if the flights don't work and adding the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur instead. So: Aman Delhi, Oberoi Amarvilas, Amanbagh, Rambagh Palace and Taj Palace Mumbai.

Rambagh palace is worth visiting- really an excellent property.

I moved between the Rambagh palace and Udaipur (Lake Palace) with a car and driver booked through the Rambagh palace. Yes, there are cheaper options but this way I got a brand new car, an excellent driver, no unscheduled enroute stops to visit jewellery stores, carpet shops, etc- I booked it through the conceirge at the Rambagh palace. Driving time including a quick stop enroute was 4.5 hours. They had estimated 5 however traffic was a little lighter than normal apparently.

There are daily nonstop flights on 9W (Jetairways/Jetconnect) between Udaipur and Mumbai- no need to backtrack and transit through DEL. Flying time is 70 minutes. The airport in Udaipur is about a 30 minute drive from the Lake Palace.

Stay instead at The Taj Palace (heritage wing) which is THE perfect leisure hotel, with some superb restaurants and a great garden and outdoor pool. Easily the best in Mumbai.

Just completed 2 stays here- book on the TAJ Club level which includes great extras including free pickup from BOM airport. Easily the best in Mumbai for a leisure visitor.

what about air india?

agra airport news >
http://india.nydailynews.com/business/4c3a9fcbb76b33d17a387a52dd741b96/bureaucracy-holding-up-agra-s-air-connectivity

I'm actually considering missing out Udaipur on this trip if the flights don't work and adding the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur instead. So: Aman Delhi, Oberoi Amarvilas, Amanbagh, Rambagh Palace and Taj Palace Mumbai.



That sounds like a really great itinerary, and appears to superbly minimize travel strain from destination to destination. I'll be eager to hear about Rambagh Palace and Taj Palace Mumbai, as they're top of my list for next time I go to India. How many nights are you planning at each of those places?

That sounds like a really great itinerary, and appears to superbly minimize travel strain from destination to destination. I'll be eager to hear about Rambagh Palace and Taj Palace Mumbai, as they're top of my list for next time I go to India. How many nights are you planning at each of those places?

Aman Delhi - 2 nights, Oberoi Amarvilas - 1 night, Rambagh Palace - 3 nights, Amanbagh - 5 nights, Taj Palace Mumbai - 4 nights (we have friends in Mumbai and also want to take advantage of the warmer weather there in early Feb).

Has anyone taken the train from Agra to Jaipur?

We ran into the same issues with our trip to India so we rejiggered the itinerary to start in udaipur. We are flying into Delhi then straight to udaipur. Then direct flight to jodhpur. Then direct flight to Delhi. Then train to Agra, drive to amanbagh, drive to aman-I-khas, train to Delhi then home. We managed to figure out the only way to do it with direct flights. I'm hoping that last 5+ hr train from khas to Delhi isn't too brutal.

Aman Delhi - 2 nights, Oberoi Amarvilas - 1 night, Rambagh Palace - 3 nights, Amanbagh - 5 nights, Taj Palace Mumbai - 4 nights (we have friends in Mumbai and also want to take advantage of the warmer weather there in early Feb).

Has anyone taken the train from Agra to Jaipur?

Have you thought about switching the order of Jaipur and Amanbagh? That will save you some driving time, I believe, as Amanbagh is in between Agra and Jaipur (slightly closer to Jaipur). And after Delhi and Agra, you are going to be craving some serious de-tox before pressing on to Jaipur.

cjthekid that's a good idea. I don't think we have enough time to do both Jodhpur and Udaipur, but doing 1 night Delhi then flying to Jodhpur or Udaipur for 3/4 nights, before flying back to Delhi for 1 night and taking the train to Agra might work. It splits up our time in Delhi, but that was never the focus of our trip anyway. I'm thinking of trying the Taj Palace Delhi instead of Aman, since Vuittons has said it is easier for coming to and from the airport.

Groombridge - if we stick with the original plan I will definitely switch Jaipur and Amanbagh as you suggest.

We decided to stick with the original plan (switching Amanbagh and Rambagh as Groombridge suggested). Many of the hotels appear to be very busy already in February and we actually had to move our dates to make it work. We decided to add another night at Amanbagh (now 6 nights) - it's the one I'm most looking forward to.

Udaipur and Jodhpur will have to wait until next time.

We decided to stick with the original plan (switching Amanbagh and Rambagh as Groombridge suggested). Many of the hotels appear to be very busy already in February and we actually had to move our dates to make it work. We decided to add another night at Amanbagh (now 6 nights) - it's the one I'm most looking forward to.

Udaipur and Jodhpur will have to wait until next time.

Slightly revised plan. Decided couldn't miss Umaid Bhawan Palace. So:

2 Nights Taj Palace Delhi, 1 night Oberoi Agra, 5 nights Amanbagh, 3 nights Rambagh Palace, 3 nights Umaid Bhawan Palace and finally 2 nights Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai.

Slightly revised plan. Decided couldn't miss Umaid Bhawan Palace. So:

2 Nights Taj Palace Delhi, 1 night Oberoi Agra, 5 nights Amanbagh, 3 nights Rambagh Palace, 3 nights Umaid Bhawan Palace and finally 2 nights Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai.

Looks live a very nice plan.

2 comments- I am not sure however 5 nights at Amanbagh may be a lot unless you really just want to relax and do nothing (which can be very nice) and second comment- depending on how well you know Delhi- if you are visiting for leisure I would really recommend the Taj Mahal Delhi as the location is better for this purpose unless you have friends living near the Palace.

Enjoy your trip!

Thanks for your comments.

I am very happy doing not much for 5 days at Amanbagh and I think it will be fine with some excursions and spa.

We arrive very late in Delhi the first night and leave very early the second morning, so I picked the Taj Palace as somewhere to relax before the rest of the trip.

Slightly revised plan. Decided couldn't miss Umaid Bhawan Palace. So:

2 Nights Taj Palace Delhi, 1 night Oberoi Agra, 5 nights Amanbagh, 3 nights Rambagh Palace, 3 nights Umaid Bhawan Palace and finally 2 nights Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai.

I am thrilled that you've been able to work Umaid Bhawan into your plans -- what type of room are you booking there? I stayed in one of the Royal Suites that had a lot of historical character, and it was gargantuan, but I really wish instead I had booked Royal Suite #204, which was by far my favorite of the various rooms I saw, and happens to be the personal favorite room of the GM. It has a private balcony overlooking the property, and the design and layout were so much nicer than the historically authentic but not very liveable suite I was in. The rooftop dinner restaurant is also really ambient and unique.

I am thrilled that you've been able to work Umaid Bhawan into your plans -- what type of room are you booking there? I stayed in one of the Royal Suites that had a lot of historical character, and it was gargantuan, but I really wish instead I had booked Royal Suite #204, which was by far my favorite of the various rooms I saw, and happens to be the personal favorite room of the GM. It has a private balcony overlooking the property, and the design and layout were so much nicer than the historically authentic but not very liveable suite I was in. The rooftop dinner restaurant is also really ambient and unique.

Historical suite. Is actually all they have available.

We were at the Oberoi New Delhi last month. I thought it was excellent with wonderful staff.

Historical suite. Is actually all they have available.

Historical Suites are rather nice, I think. I would go for it!