I am planning a rail fanning excursion where I intend to ride all of the bullet train lines in July of 2013. I understand that reservations are free when purchasing the railpass. I've already planned out a rough itinerary using hyperpedia. I see that there are hourly or better frequencies on most lines. Do all of these trains fill up in Green class?
What kind of snacks and beverages are available while onboard the bullet trains?
Thanks.
jib71
Jun 18, 12, 4:06 pm
What kind of snacks and beverages are available while onboard the bullet trains?
A variety of bento boxes. Soft and hard drinks. Ice cream etc. The bento in the stations can be quite exciting. Some of them are famous:
http://justbento.com/handbook/bento-culture/all-about-ekiben-japanese-train-station-bentos
For at least one day you should sustain yourself on dried squid, kewpie mayo., and Ozeki one cups. It's a rite of passage.
abmj-jr
Jun 18, 12, 5:27 pm
Although you can get snacks on the train, as another rail fan I'd recommend picking up an "eki-ben" bento lunchbox at each station before you board or when making connections. The station bento kiosks will have a wider selection and, more importantly, visible display boxes of each variety, which are really helpful if you can't read the kanji descriptions on the boxes or understand the Japanese descriptions given by the trolley dollies. Each major station will have a variety of lunches featuring local ingredients and often will have a local specialty bento. I enjoy bento shopping and eating as much as the actual train rides, always accompanied by my favorite cold, bottled tea. I have photos from my last visit in April of all my bentos, opened and unopened to show the special packaging. I think that makes me somewhat of a tetsu (train otaku) but who cares?
I've never found green cars to be necessary as the regular reserved cars are plenty comfortable. The green cars should not fill up very far in advance except on national holidays and traditional travel times like New Years, etc. Just reserve your seats ahead and you'll be fine in July. Except for the heat prostration.
EDIT to add: Since you pressed one of my buttons, I'll also suggest looking at your available time to see if you can get off the shinkansen bullet trains and onto other rail lines. The shinkansens are routed for speed not scenery. The most memorable trips I've taken have been on a variety of Limited Express trains such as the Hida Wideview, which goes from Nagoya up into the hills to Takayama and on over the mountains to Toyo and Kanazawa. The scenery in the mountains is spectacular and Takayama makes for a nice visit. Other really scenic Ltd Exp trips I recommend are from Okayama onto Shikoku Island and through the river gorges to Kochi on the Pacific Ocean; Okayama over the mountains to Matsue on the Japan Sea; the express from Fukuoka to Nagasaki and several others. If scenery is important to you, get off the shinkansen occasionally and onto the limiteds.
abmj-jr
Jun 18, 12, 5:32 pm
A variety of bento boxes. Soft and hard drinks. Ice cream etc. The bento in the stations can be quite exciting. Some of them are famous:
http://justbento.com/handbook/bento-culture/all-about-ekiben-japanese-train-station-bentos
For at least one day you should sustain yourself on dried squid, kewpie mayo., and Ozeki one cups. It's a rite of passage.
Curse you, my friend. That link just caused me to feel the need for another trip just to try some of those. It shows some I've never seen or tried. Aargh!
And NO, dried squid sucks! ;)
hailstorm
Jun 18, 12, 6:28 pm
Curse you, my friend. That link just caused me to feel the need for another trip just to try some of those. It shows some I've never seen or tried. Aargh!
If you don't have time to travel all over Japan, in the GRANSTA underground food court inside Tokyo Station (within the turnstyles, in the vicinity of the big Gin no Suzu silver bell) there is a store that sells regional ekiben specialties.
http://gransta.jp/store/index.php?pid=307
steve4031
Jun 18, 12, 7:00 pm
The bento boxes sound good. I've tried some sushi, and like it. Especially if I dip it in teriyaki sauce. Some of that other stuff, If I eat it, I might have the entire car to myself. And JR might have to take a bullet train set out of service. LOL
Seriously, I think I will be more adventuresome. It is intersting to see what is available in some of the stations.
steve4031
Jun 18, 12, 7:02 pm
Although you can get snacks on the train, as another rail fain I'd recommend picking up an "eki-ben" bento lunchbox at each station before you board or when making connections. The station bento kiosks will have a wider selection and, more importantly, visible display boxes of each variety, which are really helpful if you can't read the kanji descriptions on the boxes or understand the Japanese descriptions given by the trolley dollies. Each major station will have a variety of lunches featuring local ingredients and often will have a local specialty bento. I enjoy bento shopping and eating as much as the actual train rides, always accompanied by my favorite cold, bottled tea. I have photos from my last visit in April of all my bentos, opened and unopened to show the special packaging. I think that makes me somewhat of a tetsu (train otaku) but who cares?
I've never found green cars to be necessary as the regular reserved cars are plenty comfortable. The green cars should not fill up very far in advance except on national holidays and traditional travel times like New Years, etc. Just reserve your seats ahead and you'll be fine in July. Except for the heat prostration.
EDIT to add: Since you pressed one of my buttons, I'll also suggest looking at your available time to see if you can get off the shinkansen bullet trains and onto other rail lines. The shinkansens are routed for speed not scenery. The most memorable trips I've taken have been on a variety of Limited Express trains such as the Hida Wideview, which goes from Nagoya up into the hills to Takayama and on over the mountains to Toyo and Kanazawa. The scenery in the mountains is spectacular and Takayama makes for a nice visit. Other really scenic Ltd Exp trips I recommend are from Okayama onto Shikoku Island and through the river gorges to Kochi on the Pacific Ocean; Okayama over the mountains to Matsue on the Japan Sea; the express from Fukuoka to Nagasaki and several others. If scenery is important to you, get off the shinkansen occasionally and onto the limiteds.
Are these the most scenic routes? thanks. If I had to eliminate one of the bullet train routes, which would you suggest skipping? I was plannning to "ace" the bullet train system. With a 7 day pass I might struggle to do that and hit all of the scenic routes. I am open to suggestions.
jib71
Jun 18, 12, 7:33 pm
Deleted.
steve4031
Jun 18, 12, 9:40 pm
Day 1
depart USA
Day 2
arrive Tokyo late afternoon
Day 3 JP rail pass day 1
sight see Tokyo
Day 4 JP rail pass day 2
Hakone-a series of trains, buses, boats, and cable cars to see Mt. Fuji 5,000 yen in 2012 or 63 US dollars. Includes transit to and from Tokyo
Day 5 JP rail pass day 3
Depart Tokyo 8:28 a.m.
Arrive shin amori 11:55 a.m.
Depart Shin-Osaka 3:30 p.m.
Arrive Tokyo 6:40 p.m.
Day 10
fly home
If I was to leave one part of this out, which part would you say is least scenic?
Thanks.
hailstorm
Jun 18, 12, 10:16 pm
Day JP rail pass day 5
Depart 8:36 a.m.
Arrive Nagano 10:18 a.m.
Depart Nagano 10:26 a.m.
Arrive Tokyo 12:12 p.m.
Depart Tokyo 4:03 p.m.
Arrive Osaka 7:03 p.m.
Wow...you really do like riding trains!
I think you'd have more fun shortening the trip to Karuizawa, renting a bicycle, and exploring the area for a couple of hours, than staying in Nagano station for eight minutes.
Pickles
Jun 18, 12, 11:13 pm
I've tried some sushi, and like it. Especially if I dip it in teriyaki sauce.
This will get you arrested in Japan. Conviction rates after arrest and indictment are 99% in Japan, so you take your chances.
hailstorm
Jun 18, 12, 11:38 pm
I've tried some sushi, and like it. Especially if I dip it in teriyaki sauce.This will get you arrested in Japan. Conviction rates after arrest and indictment are 99% in Japan, so you take your chances.
You are really dating yourself there. I've been to several places in Tokyo that had a teriyaki sushi item on the menu...though I admit that you would have a much harder time finding such a dish out in the sticks.
nishimark
Jun 18, 12, 11:47 pm
Have you ridden the shinkansen before? It's a great experience and far superior to an airplane in many ways. However, if you've seen one you've seen 'em all and the view from the window is all going to look the same after a couple of hours. Your proposed itinerary sounds to me like experiencing America by spending most of your time on airplanes flying over the top of it. Just my opinion, of course.
travellerK
Jun 19, 12, 12:17 am
I am in a shinkasen Green Car as we speak (typing on my Blackberry).
Green cars are usually empty. I think this car has maybe 5 people in it.
There are lots of tunnels, rice paddies and some city stations along the train route. I am not sure what the OP wants to see, but that is most of what you see.
I only eat food that I bring with me, so I can't comment on that.
It should be pointed out that since Fukushima the temperature on the trains is very uncomfortably hot (at least for me).
acregal
Jun 19, 12, 12:41 am
What are Ozeki one cups?
I've never tried one but they're pretty much the cheapest alcohol around. It might also be something to strip paint.
nishimark
Jun 19, 12, 12:44 am
It should be pointed out that since Fukushima the temperature on the train is very uncomfortably hot (at least for me).
Just crack open the window. ;)
abmj-jr
Jun 19, 12, 12:55 am
Wow! I kind of agree with the others. That is a lot of cooped up, not-much-scenery time for little else other than riding the trains.
I get it that you are a train fan and want to ride all the shinkansen routes. I just think I'd go about it a bit differently. First, I'd get rid of all those double-backs to spend the night in Tokyo. All shinkansen stops have nearby business traveler hotels that are cheap, convenient and often offer breakfast buffet with the room rate. Some have coin laundry facilities and wi-fi. If you are interested, I can recommend some decent places I have used at a few of your stops.
I wouldn't use those JR Pass days for sightseeing in Tokyo. Use the subway, it is cheaper, simpler and gets you everywhere. There are combo deals that include the train into the city from NRT and 2 days subway passes. Use the JR Pass for long distance travel.
If I were doing this (I wouldn't have the energy but if I were,) I'd buy the Keisei Skyliner+Metro Pass upon arrival at NRT, ride into the city on the Skyliner (one of my favorite trains) and stay near Ueno Station in Tokyo. Sight-see via subway from Ueno.
Then:
Rail Pass day 1: shinkansen Ueno-Sendai / visit Sendai a couple of hours / shinkansen Sendai-ShinAomori - double back to Akita - overnight Akita.
Day 2: local JR line Akita-Shinjo (scenic) / shinkansen Shinjo-Fukushima-Omiya-Niigata - overnight Niigata.
Day 3: shinkansen Niigata-Takasaki-Nagano / local JR line Nagano-Toyama-Takayama (via Hida Wideview) - overnight Takayama (see Takayama in pm)
Day 6: shinkansen Kagoshima-Hiroshima or Kyoto - overnight (pm sight-see)
Day 7: shinkansen back to Tokyo, perhaps stopping at Hakone for a few hours along the way. (I wouldn't, it's kind of a waste.)
It is entirely possible to schedule so Day 7 of the Pass is your departure day from Japan and just go Kyoto-Tokyo-NRT all at once, using the Pass to cover the Narita Express to the airport.
This is just an outline and some other sites/locations might be more appealing but it covers all the shinkansen lines you were interested in and still allows SOME visit time at and through some scenic locations. The limited express trains to/from Takayama and Kochi are beautiful rides.
Any way you look at it, this is a lot of time on trains. :eek:
abmj-jr
Jun 19, 12, 1:09 am
If you don't have time to travel all over Japan, in the GRANSTA underground food court inside Tokyo Station (within the turnstyles, in the vicinity of the big Gin no Suzu silver bell) there is a store that sells regional ekiben specialties.
http://gransta.jp/store/index.php?pid=307
Thanks for the link. I avoid Tokyo these days but will have to take a look if making a connection at Tokyo-eki.
NewbieRunner
Jun 19, 12, 1:30 am
One Cup Ozeki (http://japanvisitor.blogspot.co.uk/2008/10/one-cup-ozeki.html)
steve4031
Jun 19, 12, 4:47 am
I think there is a balance to be achieved here. I enjoyed the trains in Europe. As I learn more about the limited express network I'll see which ones to use.
Pureboy
Jun 19, 12, 12:53 pm
One Cup Ozeki (http://japanvisitor.blogspot.co.uk/2008/10/one-cup-ozeki.html)And you can see in the top picture of that link my favorite new discovery from my recent trip- Sake juice boxes! It's a balanced part of your combini-bought breakfast.
You are really dating yourself there. I've been to several places in Tokyo that had a teriyaki sushi item on the menu...though I admit that you would have a much harder time finding such a dish out in the sticks.
Are you sure it wasn't sushi tare sauce, like what is traditionally used in anago? Looks kind of the same, same consistency, but flavor is quite different.
jib71
Jun 19, 12, 4:34 pm
Are you sure it wasn't sushi tare sauce, like what is traditionally used in anago? Looks kind of the same, same consistency, but flavor is quite different.
Google throws up a few recipes for Teriyaki chicken rolls, but as far as I can see, no sushi restaurants serving this dish.
Throws up is the right idiom, I think.
hailstorm
Jun 19, 12, 5:55 pm
Are you sure it wasn't sushi tare sauce, like what is traditionally used in anago? Looks kind of the same, same consistency, but flavor is quite different.
I think I still remember how to read Japanese for "teriyaki".
If you can read 照り焼き then you also know its meaning, right? Cooking a dish teriyaki (which is what all the pictures above show) is not the same as taking sushi and dipping it in teriyaki sauce. The former is a pretty good idea. The latter sounds, ahem, fishy.
jib71
Jun 19, 12, 6:25 pm
I think I still remember how to read Japanese for "teriyaki".
Et cetera, Et cetera...
OK. Kaiten sushi restaurants and kappo ryori places. Fair enough.
(FWIW - The teriyaki style dish in the third link looks like a more delicate layer than yer common-all-garden teriyaki dunk, as shown in the first link. I wouldn't mind trying that).
hailstorm
Jun 19, 12, 6:29 pm
If you can read 照り焼き then you also know its meaning, right? Cooking a dish teriyaki (which is what all the pictures above show) is not the same as taking sushi and dipping it in teriyaki sauce. The former is a pretty good idea. The latter sounds, ahem, fishy.
I think the first one is pretty clearly a piece of sushi covered in teriyaki sauce.
Anyway, I don't see the point of carrying on this argument further. If the OP requests teriyaki sauce at a chain revolving sushi restaurant, and they have some, they will gladly give it to him, and not threaten to have him "arrested" in jest or otherwise.
nishimark
Jun 19, 12, 6:39 pm
I think the first one is pretty clearly a piece of sushi covered in teriyaki sauce.
Just to be clear, that's chicken. But you're right, let them put teriyaki sauce on whatever they want, doesn't mean that I have to.
Pickles
Jun 19, 12, 10:20 pm
Anyway, I don't see the point of carrying on this argument further. If the OP requests teriyaki sauce at a chain revolving sushi restaurant, and they have some, they will gladly give it to him, and not threaten to have him "arrested" in jest or otherwise.
I guess, if they have some. Big if, but whatever, I know of a number of places where such a request would probably get you kicked out, either physically or at least in spirit.
hailstorm
Jun 19, 12, 10:53 pm
I guess, if they have some. Big if, but whatever, I know of a number of places where such a request would probably get you kicked out, either physically or at least in spirit.
I could think of a few places where such a request would be frowned upon. But if the OP is putting teriyaki sauce on his sushi, he's probably not looking for an expensive, ultra-traditional sushi experience.
The cheap places are coming up with lots of new ways of preparing sushi to try and attract customers.
travellerK
Jun 20, 12, 1:28 am
Just crack open the window. ;)
I don't get the joke (I assume you know that the windows don't open).
Back the OP's original question. I took two green cars day. One was, "really crowded," may 15 people in it (out of a capacity of 64). The other had three people including me.
I think in my years of riding these trains, I only once experienced a truly full car, and never did I have a problem getting a seat. Of course I come to Japan for business so I am not going to be here during peak vacation travel seasons.
hamburgler
Jun 20, 12, 1:49 am
I've seen the green car be close to full at peak times on the Sendai-Tokyo run frequently.. only one green car and half-hourly service means it can fill up. Going south I've never seen them more than 50% full.
Note that on JR East green car includes complimentary non-alcoholic drinks (in sippy cups!), but JR West/Central/Kyushu don't give you anything.
steve4031
Jun 20, 12, 9:14 am
I appreciate the heads up. I realize I'm a visitor to japan. And I want to be respectful. So I gather that some places it's ok to ask for teriyaki sauce and others it's not. If I understand correctly, the cheaper places with revolving displays would not object.
I discovered teriyaki sauce at Ron of Japan in Chicago. I just assumed it was a part of Japanese cuisine.
Thanks for the info.
lobsterdog
Jun 20, 12, 9:45 am
OMG, I thought you were kidding. No, it's never all right to ask for teriyaki sauce for your sushi. (And I blame Ron of Japan in Chicago for this, not you.) Reactions might generally be confined to dirty looks and shaken heads - you might not get physically thrown out, but on the other hand I very much doubt that anyone would actually give you teriyaki sauce.
jib71
Jun 20, 12, 10:37 am
It's no worse than asking for ketchup with everything.
OTOH, it's no better than asking for ketchup with everything.
abmj-jr
Jun 20, 12, 12:10 pm
Does that restaurant in Chicago REALLY serve actual teriyaki sauce with real sushi (fish and rice)?? :eek: Or could it be some sort of soy sauce-based dipping sauce?
I just can't imagine that thick, sweet, heavy flavored concoction on delicate fish.
jib71
Jun 20, 12, 12:32 pm
Does that restaurant in Chicago REALLY serve actual teriyaki sauce with real sushi (fish and rice)?? :eek: Or could it be some sort of soy sauce-based dipping sauce?
I just can't imagine that thick, sweet, heavy flavored concoction on delicate fish.
See hailstorm's photos above.
- You've got low rent joints piling teriyaki chicken and mayo (and probably ketchup too) onto a block of sushi rice that's been molded in some machine.
... and ...
- You've got high class kappo masters giving grilled fish a light brushing of something that has the essential qualities of teriyaki (hence teriyaki fumi)
What you don't got is the traditionalist sushi nazis (that Pickles loves) messing with the sushi.
In addition, I've found recipes for chicken teriyaki rolled up in a hosomaki style. These seem to be on the sort of websites commonly frequented by housewives who want to do something really racy with their husbands' bentos.
hailstorm
Jun 20, 12, 3:05 pm
OMG, I thought you were kidding. No, it's never all right to ask for teriyaki sauce for your sushi. (And I blame Ron of Japan in Chicago for this, not you.) Reactions might generally be confined to dirty looks and shaken heads - you might not get physically thrown out, but on the other hand I very much doubt that anyone would actually give you teriyaki sauce.
Where do you get this mistaken notion that Japanese are afraid to try new things? They put mayonnaise on pizza, for kamisama's sake! The Japanese that I've taken to America have been much more open to trying new things than the Americans that I've taken to Japan.
It's entirely possible that somebody will get the idea to put teriyaki sauce on sushi. Heck, for all we know, the OP asking such a question to a sushi proprietor might just be the catalyst for such a boom.
But of course, if the OP doesn't want to risk being a trailblazer, pretty much all convenience stores sell sushi and teriyaki sauce separately...
msb0b
Jun 20, 12, 5:01 pm
Ah, pizza. The Japanese views the pizza dough as a blank canvas to pile on all the different wafuu ingredients. A quick glance at Pizza-la's online menu shows curry, tuna mayo (think tuna salad), ebi mayo and bulgogi. They sound surprisingly delicious though.
Back to the original inquiry, this tecchan's would take a different approach. Instead of riding the different lines, I would try to get myself on different trainsets. The train lines will always be there (unless some natural disaster wipes it out), but the trainsets change in time. I have the 500 series on my bucket list. It is one of the fastest and most expensive shinkansen ever built, with only 9 trains delivered. The 500 series will probably be the next shinkansen trains to retire from service. The 300 series retired earlier this year.
SJCFlyerLG
Jun 20, 12, 5:35 pm
Ah, pizza. The Japanese views the pizza dough as a blank canvas to pile on all the different wafuu ingredients. A quick glance at Pizza-la's online menu shows curry, tuna mayo (think tuna salad), ebi mayo and bulgogi. They sound surprisingly delicious though.
My favorite (sarcasm on) was the tuna and creamed corn - it reminded me of cat vomit.
ksandness
Jun 20, 12, 8:24 pm
Back in the 1980s, there was a pizza place in the maze of shops under Tokyo Station that sold fried egg and raisin pizza, along with more typical combinations such as nori and shrimp or ham and pineapple.
Sometimes when I'm in Japan I'll have breakfast at a Pronto, picking out a pastry or two to have with coffee. However, you have to read the labels. Along with the cinnamon-raisin rolls or the ham and egg rolls, you might inadvertently buy a cod-roe-with-extra-mayonnaise roll.
Pickles
Jun 21, 12, 11:39 am
Sometimes when I'm in Japan I'll have breakfast at a Pronto, picking out a pastry or two to have with coffee. However, you have to read the labels. Along with the cinnamon-raisin rolls or the ham and egg rolls, you might inadvertently buy a cod-roe-with-extra-mayonnaise roll.
My favorite is the McDonald's hot dog. yes, McDonald's serves hot dogs in Japan. But only until 10:00 AM, since they are considered a breakfast item. Oh Japan, who knoweth the how, but not the why...
jib71
Jun 21, 12, 3:29 pm
My favorite is the McDonald's hot dog. yes, McDonald's serves hot dogs in Japan. But only until 10:00 AM, since they are considered a breakfast item. Oh Japan, who knoweth the how, but not the why...
Well Wiener where we're goin' (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWtCittJyr0)
steve4031
Jun 21, 12, 9:54 pm
Ill make sure not to order teriyaki sauce with my Sushi. Again, thanks to all for your opinions regarding my itinerary. I am contemplating changes, and will share the new version when I am finished.