JDiver
May 13, 12, 11:40 pm
We are staying in Bonnieux, an old hill top town that was once inhabited by troglodytes, the Knights Templar and was fortified, etc. and today has about 1,400 inhabitants. For those wanting a French country experience, it's a nice place to stay and an easy drive from many sights.
You could do this on your own, but we are here with Kathy and Charley Wood, owners-operators of Luberon Experience (www.luberonexperience.com) and European Experiences (http://www.european-experiences.com/), who lived in the Luberon once and specialize in small (12 and under) groups. This tour, Luberon Experience, was just selected as one of the world's fifty best tours (ten best in Europe) by National Geographic Traveler (May 2012 issue).
The stay: we are at the le Clos du Buis (http://en.leclosdubuis.fr/) "B&B Plus" near the entrance to the town - up Victor Hugo a few buildings from the (new) town church. Once a bakery and store, the B&B is renovated and well looked after by Pierre Maurin and his daughter Sophie. There are eight rooms with A/C and en-suite bath, one architecturally accessible, and they are strictly a non-smoking property. There is a nice extended breakfast (French plus juice, ham, cheeses, etc. served 8 - 10 AM) and WiFi is provided throughout.
The delightful garden is great for having a picnic, and the guest kitchen (even a fridge you can keep your things in and free bottles of water) makes it easy, as well as the proximity to produce shops. There is a swimming pool, though it is not heated so a bit icy at the moment. A small laundry unit (in the large guest kitchen) takes care of your washing needs (there is no laundry in Bonnieux). A small, enclosed parking lot is also available for guests, at no additional cost.
Bedrooms run 92 - 138 EUR per night, depending on size of room and season (low, shoulder and high - the latter runs May - September inclusive).
Much of Bonnieux is walkable form le Clos du Buis. L'Arome restaurant, one of the area's good restaurants, is literally across the street in vaulted limestone rooms with Provencal cuisine and attentive service. Within a block are the boulangerie, sweets shop, café for early morning coffee, pizza or snack, and Le Terail, another good restaurant with lovely sunset views of the valley below (and Le Tunil next door has the best hand-made ice creams and sorbets made by proprietress Georgette). Edouard Loubet's two star Michelin restaurant is a short drive away at his La Bastide de Capelongue resort - of course, booking is a must for the latter and suggested for the Terrail or L'Arome. La Flambée nearly next door is a pleasant café with very good wood-oven fired pizzas and Kronenbourg "a pression" beer plus some Cotes de Luberon wines. St. Andre offers a very friendly and tasty dining experience as well.
You should explore this town - old walls, two of the four old access gates, the old church and cemetery (spectacular views), the oldest street (Rue Droit) and more, even a Musée de Boulangerie for some good knowledge about baking. The nice market is carried out every Friday. Cheeses, dry saucissons (sausage), soaps from Marseille, perfumes, scarves, tablecloths and various other textiles and for-wear items, pottery, honey, breads, antiques, produce (amazing variety of produce!) and more can be had for meal or lovely picnics (but you do not bargain, just as you would not in someone's shop in France, unless you are planning to buy in numbers). Most merchants are welcoming, but one or two you encounter may be too eager to greet you only to become ridiculous about pricing after you have sampled.
What's near? the nearby hilltop villages of Lacoste and Saignon, the Monday market at L'Isle sur la Sorgue seems to be a big one, and nearby markets at Gordes (Tuesday), and other towns are worth visits. There are some local shops in town as well. Nearby wineries include the local cooperative (decent table wines), Chateau de Mille and the picturesque Chateau la Canorgue. Lots of good hiking is available as well.
Special experiences with Kathy and Charley included a guided tour of a nearby "onion layered" building owned and being maintained by their friend and which has had everyone living in it from troglodytes to Knights Templars and Knights of St. John to more recent denizens, and a visit to a working goat farm and dairy - with tastings of the various chevre cheeses made there, hikes, visits to sights, villages and markets. We also had a lovely visit to the Chateau La Canorgue organic Cotes de Luberon winery - the same winery in the movie "The Good Year" - and were hosted by Nathalie Margan, the 5th generation of winemaker/owners, with a nice walk around the property and tasting some of their wines. With nine of us, two of them and two spacious new Peugeot vans, we can split up by interests as well.
Special opportunities arranged by Kathy and Charley include access to the ancient manor, La Canorgue, the goat farm, a dinner in a private home, etc. Though we often travel independently, this was like traveling with friends, adn it was all arranged. We had two lunches on our own, one dinner.
Other sights nearby include Pont Julien, Rousillon, Apt, St. Remy (with both Roman ruins and the monastery converted to hospital where Vincent Van Gogh stayed and painted prolifically), and more. I will add and update from time to time until the stay concludes.
You could do this on your own, but we are here with Kathy and Charley Wood, owners-operators of Luberon Experience (www.luberonexperience.com) and European Experiences (http://www.european-experiences.com/), who lived in the Luberon once and specialize in small (12 and under) groups. This tour, Luberon Experience, was just selected as one of the world's fifty best tours (ten best in Europe) by National Geographic Traveler (May 2012 issue).
The stay: we are at the le Clos du Buis (http://en.leclosdubuis.fr/) "B&B Plus" near the entrance to the town - up Victor Hugo a few buildings from the (new) town church. Once a bakery and store, the B&B is renovated and well looked after by Pierre Maurin and his daughter Sophie. There are eight rooms with A/C and en-suite bath, one architecturally accessible, and they are strictly a non-smoking property. There is a nice extended breakfast (French plus juice, ham, cheeses, etc. served 8 - 10 AM) and WiFi is provided throughout.
The delightful garden is great for having a picnic, and the guest kitchen (even a fridge you can keep your things in and free bottles of water) makes it easy, as well as the proximity to produce shops. There is a swimming pool, though it is not heated so a bit icy at the moment. A small laundry unit (in the large guest kitchen) takes care of your washing needs (there is no laundry in Bonnieux). A small, enclosed parking lot is also available for guests, at no additional cost.
Bedrooms run 92 - 138 EUR per night, depending on size of room and season (low, shoulder and high - the latter runs May - September inclusive).
Much of Bonnieux is walkable form le Clos du Buis. L'Arome restaurant, one of the area's good restaurants, is literally across the street in vaulted limestone rooms with Provencal cuisine and attentive service. Within a block are the boulangerie, sweets shop, café for early morning coffee, pizza or snack, and Le Terail, another good restaurant with lovely sunset views of the valley below (and Le Tunil next door has the best hand-made ice creams and sorbets made by proprietress Georgette). Edouard Loubet's two star Michelin restaurant is a short drive away at his La Bastide de Capelongue resort - of course, booking is a must for the latter and suggested for the Terrail or L'Arome. La Flambée nearly next door is a pleasant café with very good wood-oven fired pizzas and Kronenbourg "a pression" beer plus some Cotes de Luberon wines. St. Andre offers a very friendly and tasty dining experience as well.
You should explore this town - old walls, two of the four old access gates, the old church and cemetery (spectacular views), the oldest street (Rue Droit) and more, even a Musée de Boulangerie for some good knowledge about baking. The nice market is carried out every Friday. Cheeses, dry saucissons (sausage), soaps from Marseille, perfumes, scarves, tablecloths and various other textiles and for-wear items, pottery, honey, breads, antiques, produce (amazing variety of produce!) and more can be had for meal or lovely picnics (but you do not bargain, just as you would not in someone's shop in France, unless you are planning to buy in numbers). Most merchants are welcoming, but one or two you encounter may be too eager to greet you only to become ridiculous about pricing after you have sampled.
What's near? the nearby hilltop villages of Lacoste and Saignon, the Monday market at L'Isle sur la Sorgue seems to be a big one, and nearby markets at Gordes (Tuesday), and other towns are worth visits. There are some local shops in town as well. Nearby wineries include the local cooperative (decent table wines), Chateau de Mille and the picturesque Chateau la Canorgue. Lots of good hiking is available as well.
Special experiences with Kathy and Charley included a guided tour of a nearby "onion layered" building owned and being maintained by their friend and which has had everyone living in it from troglodytes to Knights Templars and Knights of St. John to more recent denizens, and a visit to a working goat farm and dairy - with tastings of the various chevre cheeses made there, hikes, visits to sights, villages and markets. We also had a lovely visit to the Chateau La Canorgue organic Cotes de Luberon winery - the same winery in the movie "The Good Year" - and were hosted by Nathalie Margan, the 5th generation of winemaker/owners, with a nice walk around the property and tasting some of their wines. With nine of us, two of them and two spacious new Peugeot vans, we can split up by interests as well.
Special opportunities arranged by Kathy and Charley include access to the ancient manor, La Canorgue, the goat farm, a dinner in a private home, etc. Though we often travel independently, this was like traveling with friends, adn it was all arranged. We had two lunches on our own, one dinner.
Other sights nearby include Pont Julien, Rousillon, Apt, St. Remy (with both Roman ruins and the monastery converted to hospital where Vincent Van Gogh stayed and painted prolifically), and more. I will add and update from time to time until the stay concludes.