Trip Reports - A Trip to the Andaman Islands




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zanskar
Apr 10, 12, 2:14 pm
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I have recently returned from an excellent trip to the Andaman Islands and thought I would post my experiences as it is a relatively unusual location for a holiday- though I suspect this is rapidly changing. You may want to get there while you can!

Background
I have already been to the Andaman islands as part of a longer trip involving a land journey from Beijing to Kathmandu (see http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/1317404-tibet-trip-overland-beijing-kathmandu.html). I was much taken by the primeval jungle feel to the islands and also seriously impressed by the quality of the fishing in the rich seas. As long-haul travel and fishing are my great passions in life, a return visit for a 12 day trip seemed like a perfect break from work.


The Andaman Islands
The Andaman and Nicobar Islands have for a long time been politically part of India, although geographically they lie closer to Thailand, Burma and Indonesia than to the Indian mainland. Travel to the islands is very restrictive with tourists only allowed to visit a limited number of the Andaman Islands, with the Nicobar Islands completely off limits even to Indians who do not have a good reason to be there. The Nicobar Islands in particular were devastated by the 2004 tsunami.

Part of the reason for the restrictive nature of tourism is that there still exist a number of tribal groups on various islands who have no contact with the outside world, and these peoples are protected as best as possible from any contact by the Indian Government. Previous attempts to make contact with some of these tribes have been met with showers of spears and arrows, so I for one was in no hurry to attempt to break this rule! Those islands allowing tourists have largely been colonised by Bengalis and Tamils, many of whom have been there for a number of generations.

It would be wrong to say that you are trailblazing when making a trip to the Andamans. Tourism on Havelock Island in particular is well established, but there is a wonderful laid back atmosphere compared with the Indian mainland and a pervading sense of tropical languor which makes a visit extremely worthwhile. The tortuous nature of getting to the islands also maintains a sense of exclusiveness. I for one would mourn the day that direct charter flights fire up from Gatwick!

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Getting there
Getting to the Andamans is only via the Indian mainland. The best city to connect from is Chennai, although there are other links via Kolkata, and indirectly via Delhi. All flights go to the capital, Port Blair, and most tourists then make a bee line to Havelock Island, a 2 and a half hour ferry trip away.

BA to Chennai
I chose to make use of BA’s extensive Indian network by flying direct to Chennai. Grabbing the best value for miles, I bought WT+ in a sale and used miles to upgrade to J, although unfortunately there was only outbound availability for the upgrade.

I had decided to drive to Heathrow and had splashed out on business parking with the express intention of trying out the small pods which deliver you to the terminal. Imagine my disappointment when I was told that the car park was full and I had been ‘upgraded’ to the short stay one instead! Once in the terminal I checked in and made my way up to the south lounge. The flight was leaving from the C terminal which I had not used before, and I sidled over about 45 minutes before departure.

T5

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My 3-class 777

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Boarding was swift and I found my seat, 2K, on a 3-class 777. Not travelling for work, Club World is a rare pleasure for me and I really make the most of the experience. I had a couple of glasses of champers and settled back to enjoy the flight.

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The flight was aided by a good-going tailwind and was only going to be a shade over 9 hours. The crew was polite and friendly and the service generally very good. The food wasn’t too bad either- I noticed the use of flavours which were quite robust such as lots of sun dried tomatoes in the salad, and the curry main course was surprisingly spicy, although it was rather dry and desiccated by the oven.

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Menu

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Starter

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Main

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Dessert

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I was a bit surprised then to be served a full breakfast at about 2 in the morning Indian time prior to landing. I do like full English breakfasts on planes, but does anyone else agree that it could really do without eggs with the consistency of vulcanised rubber? We made it into Chennai at an unsociable 3:30am.


Immigration and Customs was rapid leaving me milling around the decidedly down-at-heel airport. My flight to Port Blair wasn’t until 10am and it didn’t strike me as the best use of an expensive hotel room for a relatively short period of time. I tried to get one of the ‘retiring rooms’ in the airport but they were full so I used my priority pass to get into the BICA domestic lounge. Whilst a bit basic, there were leather sofas and it was empty of any other passengers, so the staff seemed happy to let me grab a bit of rest crashed out on the sofa for a few hours before my flight to Port Blair.

The flight to Port Blair was on a Jet Airways 737-800. I snagged an emergency exit seat and settled back for the 2 hour hop across the Indian Ocean. I had to pay for a rather miserable sandwich filled with unidentifiable gloop, but it was otherwise fine.

Waiting to depart MAA

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Emergency exit seat legroom on Jet

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zanskar
Apr 10, 12, 2:23 pm
Arrival in Port Blair is rather like landing in another country. You need to get a restricted area permit which is issued in the airport and gets checked regularly as you travel among the islands. You also get your passport stamped separately both on entry and exit by the Andaman’s own immigration department. From the airport I got a taxi straight to the docks where a ferry to Havelock was leaving within an hour or so.

Ferry Office

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Some of the boats looked like prison hulks

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Luckily ours wasn't too bad

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The government ferry is a fairly basic affair, with plastic seats below deck in a rather poorly air conditioned cabin. There are no facilities to buy food or even water and I was glad to have stocked up on mineral water. Many people made their way up to the deck in the open air and the crossing was smooth.

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Havelock harbour

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On arrival on Havelock all foreign tourists had to register with the police before being let out onto the dock. Most of the hotels had vehicles to transfer guests and I headed off the the Wild Orchid resort which is one of the most well established places to stay on the island.

Most of the resorts on the island are built of natural materials and are basic but comfortable. Although expensive by mainland Indian standards, they are still all excellent value if you compare them with the West, or an equivalent in say the Maldives. The Wild Orchid has a particularly good restaurant with a tandoori red snapper to die for… For my whole time on the island I only ate fruit, rice, roti and fresh fish which was just fantastic.

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Most people come to Havelock either to laze on the beach or to dive. I did a couple of dives and it is very good, largely due to the huge numbers of fish, although a lot of the coral has been bleached by El Nino type occurrences. There are a plethora of dive outfits with prices around the $75 mark for a 2 dive package.

The beaches are also very good, with Radhanagar beach (where the swankiest resort on the island is based) being previously rated the 3rd best in Asia by some survey or other.

Radhanagar beach

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Beaches on the other side of the island

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zanskar
Apr 10, 12, 2:32 pm
My real interest is fishing and for those similarly enthused, it is superb. The main target species is the giant trevally with plenty of fish in the 40-60lb category, and a sustainable catch and release policy. Fishing is by casting out lures onto coral reefs and natural underwater structures and is very visual, with huge shoals of baitfish boiling on the surface as predators smash into them from below. There are also many species like King Mackerel, barracuda, grouper and snapper which are great to eat, and I would generally keep one per day and ask the hotel to rustle it up for dinner which they would gladly do for under $5. Just superb.

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Most of the fish have a serious set of teeth!!

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One of the other great points about the fishing trips is that it enabled me to see lots of the outlying islands from the sea, which is the best way to view them. Unlike other Indian Ocean Islands the Andamans are thickly covered in tropical rainforest which extends right down to the beach, and there is a primordial, basic feel as though you are in Conan Doyle’s Lost World. The islands have maintained their colonial names, such as John Lawrence Island and Hugh Ross Island and this adds to a ‘pirates treasure island’ feel.

Thickly forested islands

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Getting home
After a brilliant 8 nights it was time for the 3 day trek back to England. Due to the connection times it is necessary to spend at least one night in Port Blair as the first morning ferry from Havelock arrives in Port Blair without sufficient connection time to reach the last flight to the mainland. This is no bad thing as Port Blair is a pleasant small city in which to spend a day or two.

View from the hotel

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One of the ‘must do’ things to do in Port Blair is to visit the cellular jail. The British originally used the Andamans as a penal colony and it was largely used to inter political prisoners, so it occupies a special place in Indian consciousness. The jail consisted of 7 radial arms extending out of a central control tower, rather like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. There is a fairly interesting museum and even a well preserved gallows. All in all a worthwhile visit although not as good as a visit to Alcatraz!

Cellular Jail

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I had one night at an OK with a great view of the bay then it was back on another Jet flight to Chennai and a night at the Raddison Blue near the airport. I then had the unenviable task of getting up at 2:45 am to get the 05:30 BA36 back to LHR.

It was certainly a contrast to the flight out. I was able to use my CX gold card (free with Amex platinum) to use business check in and circumvent to queues. I was also given a pass to one of the lounges (I might not mention which of the possible 2 it was!). The reason I mention this is that as I was sitting there an enormous rat shot across the floor under one of the tables amidst much shrieking of the assembled guests. A few seconds later it whizzed back disappearing under the bar, and this merely prompted a look of extreme indifference from the laid-back barman. I have never seen a room empty so fast!

BA back home was quite a contrast to the way out. The flight was totally rammed in WT and WT+, and there were more screaming babies than in one of Mother Teresa’s Calcutta orphanages. I was able to watch a couple of movies and the food wasn’t too bad but it did reaffirm the often quoted mantra that WT+ is definitely Y+ rather than J-.

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Rammed WT

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I hope you have enjoyed my latest trip report. Any comments very welcome.

Zanskar


yyzdub
Apr 10, 12, 2:50 pm
^ Awesome report!

halfcape
Apr 10, 12, 4:05 pm
Thanks for your tr and photos. I enjoyed it. Return trip sounded sad.

Gumbieben
Apr 10, 12, 6:18 pm
I managed to get to The Andamans last year, similarly using BA with an miles upgrade to Club, but out to BLR and back from BOM!

Such a beautiful islands and the Scuba diving was out of this world... Better than the Seychelles/ Great Bartier Reef/ Red Sea all put together on a single dive site!

Can't wait to go back!

printingray
Apr 11, 12, 1:32 pm
I managed to get to The Andamans last year, similarly using BA with an miles upgrade to Club, but out to BLR and back from BOM!

Such a beautiful islands and the Scuba diving was out of this world... Better than the Seychelles/ Great Bartier Reef/ Red Sea all put together on a single dive site!

Can't wait to go back!


This tropical island is closer to south Asia and representing mini India with diversity of languages, religion and culture. You can find everything in its glorious history, custom and traditions which always attract the travelers to visit the island about 1000Km off the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal.

chicagodesi
Apr 11, 12, 1:36 pm
great TR, love the pics! would love to see more pics from the islands themselves

SanDiego1K
Apr 11, 12, 2:35 pm
Fascinating. I knew nothing about the Andaman Islands before.

aks120
Apr 11, 12, 5:04 pm
Fascinating. I knew nothing about the Andaman Islands before.

Me neither - I am now rapidly googling to see if that may be a place to go for my next holiday :D

Thanks for the trip report and educating me to a new part of the world!

aks120

blackmamba
Apr 11, 12, 5:34 pm
Amazing trip! That's a huge tuna you got there!

Seat 2A
Apr 11, 12, 5:41 pm
Now I know where the Andaman Islands are! Looks like a nice trip with some good fish tales to tell when you get home.

TPJ
Apr 12, 12, 7:45 am
Arrival in Port Blair is rather like landing in another country. You need to get a restricted area permit which is issued in the airport and gets checked regularly as you travel among the islands. You also get your passport stamped separately both on entry and exit by the Andaman’s own immigration department.

Can you actually fly to Port Blair without the permit and get in on arrival? If yes, I think something is changing (for good) with the permit system in India as last year it took us 20 minutes to get a permit for Sikkim...

zanskar
Apr 12, 12, 2:02 pm
Thanks for all your comments. I would recommend the islands to anyone, particularly if you like scuba diving and/or fishing. Get there before they become too popular!



Can you actually fly to Port Blair without the permit and get in on arrival? If yes, I think something is changing (for good) with the permit system in India as last year it took us 20 minutes to get a permit for Sikkim...

You are right; getting the permit is very straightforward and is done with minimal/no hassle on arrival in Port Blair. I also went to Sikkim a number of years ago and was stuck in Darjeeling for about 4 days waiting to get the permit, so things are indeed obviously changing for the better!

greg999
Apr 12, 12, 4:30 pm
Thanks for posting. Fascinating to read and great pictures.

snowymt
Apr 12, 12, 9:07 pm
an amazing trip report--thank you! what a neat destination!

duke2013
Apr 13, 12, 12:26 am
awesome pictures of the fish!

jv66
Apr 13, 12, 9:40 am
Great TR!. I love your reports and the way you travel, definitely have to check those islands out one day...

Betteronacamel
Apr 15, 12, 12:57 am
Very interesting TR.

I hope the Chinese don't show up to overfish the sea and chop down all the forests too soon (or ever).

Thank you.

NYBanker
Apr 16, 12, 6:34 pm
Great report.

These islands have started to get a little press here in the US, but you're the first I've known to go.

Thanks for sharing.

B747-437B
Apr 17, 12, 3:42 pm
Interesting stuff. I went to the Andamans 20 years ago for a week, back when the only air access was via the 4x weekly Indian Airlines 737-200s from what were then Calcutta and Madras. Most people would take the packet boat from Vizag instead.

Port Blair was an interesting town back then too and I fondly remember the excellent seafood that we ate throughout our time there. I also remember that daylight hours would last from 330am to 330pm because the islands still run on Indian Standard Time despite being many degrees East. A final memory was that the only TV available (not that one would spend much time watching TV) was black-and-white signals from a Burmese state run channel.

Good memories and great to see more tourism opening up to that hidden gem in the middle of nowhere.

GRALISTAIR
Apr 17, 12, 4:53 pm
amazing

worldtraveller73
Apr 17, 12, 6:53 pm
Awesome and congratulations for going somewhere new. Always great to see a far corner of the world where few have travelled to. Thanks for posting.

hauteboy
May 19, 13, 10:18 pm
Nice report! I went to Havelock/Port Blair about 6 years ago, here was my TR: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/656750-andaman-islands-report-9w-maa-ixz-maa.html

Gamecock
May 20, 13, 7:26 pm
I had never heard of this destination. Thanks for posting!^

MickV
May 21, 13, 2:51 am
Thanks for posting! Looks like a great trip.

I hate the BA meals on this flight. Very strange to be served dinner first thing in the morning and then breakfast so late at night. No idea why they do it!



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